Nature’s Palette Wrap
Our gorgeous Nature’s Palette Wrap is for those who appreciate nature’s grand gestures, like flaming sunsets, as well as its more subtle moments, like the iridescent flash of a hummingbird in flight.
A carefully crafted tribute to our Nature’s Palette Blanket, this wrap might be smaller in size, but its artistry is expansive! It has all the same gorgeous gradient color as its namesake, now in a version that can venture out into the world with you.
In a simple seed stitch pattern, the Nature’s Palette Wrap has just enough texture to add interest… Both to the knitting and the exquisite result! The nooks and crannies between the stitches give light and shadow a place to play across the surface of the fabric.
The hearty complexity of Linen Quill pumps up the beauty of any project, and with two strands held together, the richness of each stitch is pure color joy!
Linen Quill’s springiness and durability come from its fine highland wool content, while alpaca adds lovely long-fiber softness. The linen lends a slightly rustic texture that conjures the organic beauty of nature at work.
You’ll need just 8 skeins of Linen Quill to cast on and enjoy the vibrancy of nature’s palette!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Gaby Bush, based on the original Nature’s Palette Blanket by Joelle Hoverson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoNaturesPaletteWrap, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 8 skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 439 yards/ 100 grams.
- 1 skein of Dark Iris; approximately 230 (430) total yards required
- 1 skein of True Turquoise; approximately 215 (410) total yards required
- 1 skein of Vintage Celadon; approximately 150 (270) total yards required
- 1 skein of Oatmeal Gray; approximately 220 (395) total yards required
- 1 skein of Crocus Bud; approximately 195 (350) total yards required
- 1 skein of Rosewood Pink; approximately 110 (200) total yards required
- 1 skein of Kiln Red; approximately 110 (190) total yards required
- 1 skein of Chestnut Red; approximately 205 (365) total yards required
You’ll also need…
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 16- or 24-inch circular needles
- A removable stitch marker (optional)
NOTE: Eight skeins will make one Wrap, or just about 2 Scarves (depending on your gauge and the length of your tails). If you would like to make a second scarf, we recommend picking up an additional skein each of both Dark Iris and Oatmeal Gray just in case. If you don’t end up needing them, you can return unwound yarn for a refund within 30 days of purchase, or within 6 months, for store credit! Check out our full Return Policy here.
GAUGE
19 stitches and 34 rows = 4 inches in Stitch Pattern with yarn doubled (see Notes)
SIZES
Scarf (Wrap)
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 10 (18) inches wide x 75 inches long
NOTES
COLOR KEY
Throughout this pattern you will hold two strands of yarn as you work. We have named each combination Colors A-L. Please note that some combinations use two of the same color strands.
Color A: Dark Iris + Dark Iris
Color B: Dark Iris + True Turquoise
Color C: True Turquoise + True Turquoise
Color D: True Turquoise + Vintage Celadon
Color E: Vintage Celadon + Oatmeal Gray
Color F: Oatmeal Gray + Oatmeal Gray
Color G: Vintage Celadon + Crocus Bud
Color H: Crocus Bud + Oatmeal Gray
Color I: Crocus Bud + Rosewood Pink
Color J: Rosewood Pink + Chestnut Red
Color K: Chestnut Red + Kiln Red
Color L: Chestnut Red + Dark Iris
STITCH PATTERN
Worked over an odd number of rows.
Row 1 (right side): K2, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front (wyif), *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1, slip 1 purlwise wyif.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern.
COLOR CHANGE
The Color Change rows transition from the Original Color to the New Color over the course of 4 rows.
Set Up: After completing instructions to work in Stitch Pattern in Original Color, cut yarns, leaving 3 (5)-yard tails. Wind the tails into one small ball.
Row 1 (right side): With New Color, k2, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. Slide work (see below).
Row 2 (right side): With Original Color, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. Turn work (see below).
Row 3: (wrong side): With Original Color, slip 1 purlwise wyif, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, slip 1 purlwise wyif. Slide work.
Row 4: (wrong side): With New Color, slip 1 purlwise wyif, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1, slip 1 purlwise wyif.
TURN AND SLIDE
When you work the Color Change Rows, you either “slide” or “turn” the work at the end of each row.
“Turn work” means to do what you would normally do when knitting rows with circular needles: Transfer the needle from your left hand into your right hand and the needle from your right hand into your left, flipping the work around so the opposite side is facing you.
“Slide work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
You will know that you’re doing this right if the yarn you need to complete the next row is right there waiting for you!
PATTERN
With Color A (see Notes), cast on 47 (85) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Note: You may find it helpful to place a removable marker or piece of scrap yarn on the right side of the work, once established.
Work in Stitch Pattern (see Notes) until piece measures 4½ inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change Set Up and Rows 1-4 (see Notes), adding in Color B.
With Color B, work in Stitch Pattern for 3 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color C.
With Color C, work in Stitch Pattern for 8 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color D.
With Color D, work Stitch Pattern for 1 inch, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color E.
With Color E, work Stitch Pattern for 1½ inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color F.
With Color F, work in Stitch Pattern for 6½ inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color E.
With Color E, work Stitch Pattern for 1 inch, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color G.
With Color G, work in Stitch Pattern for 8 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color H.
With Color H, work in Stitch Pattern for 4 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color I.
With Color I, work in Stitch Pattern for 6½ inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color J.
With Color J, work in Stitch Pattern for 4 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color K.
With Color K, work in Stitch Pattern for 10½ inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color D.
With Color D, work in Stitch Pattern for 2 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color L.
With Color L, work in Stitch Pattern for 5 inches, ending with Row 2.
Work Color Change, adding in Color A.
With Color A, work in Stitch Pattern for 3 inches, ending with Row 2.
Bind off in Stitch Pattern.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends and gently wet block.
Learn About Linen Quill + All Our Beautiful Yarns
We designed this project to highlight the uniquely beautiful qualities of our Linen Quill, a wonderful fingering-weight yarn that is a blend of 50% wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. It feels amazing in your hands, and in 70 jaw-droppingly gorgeous colors, Linen Quill is the candy store of yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Linen Quill knitting patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop wool yarn
- Shop alpaca yarn
- Shop linen yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Hello, I love love love this wrap! I made the blanket version a few years back for one of my sons and bought another to make for my other son, however, I’d been wondering if I should knit him a different blanket and had stopped the project a little way in…
Now I’m thinking I might undo what I’ve knit and make this wrap for myself instead and maybe one for my 94 year old mom….
So…my question is whether I would have enough yarn to make two wraps from the blanket bundle I already own or whether I should buy extra yarn to make two?
Thanks in advance!
Hi Amanda,
Thank you for your question! We’re so glad to hear you’re enjoying this wrap. While the yarn for the blanket is not enough to make two full wraps, you can certainly make two scarves out of it! The scarf is 10 inches wide while the wrap is 18 inches wide, but both the scarf and wrap size measure 75″ long.
If you would like to buy more yarn for two full wraps, you can find the Nature’s Palette Wrap Bundle here and individual skeins of Linen Quill here.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Confused.
‘”Slide work” means to keep thee same side facing you and push stitches to the right….you’ll know you’re doing this right when the
yarn is right there for you.”
BUT only one strand of Color A is there. If Row 2 is with Original Color, where do I get second strand?
KJ
Hi KJ,
I’m so sorry to hear you’re having trouble with these instructions, and I’m happy to help! When you slide your work, you will push your stitches back down to the other end of your circular needles. The same side of your work will face you after your most recent row before the slide, during the slide, and as you’re working the next row after sliding your stitches. In this blanket, you will use two strands of yarn for each color, so when changing colors, there will be four strands at play (two for Color A, and two for Color B)! You will first work down the row in the new color, before sliding the stitches back to work the same row over again with the original color that’s still attached on the right-hand side of your work.
I hope this helps clarify things, and please feel free to let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Thanks, Margaret. I finally figured that out. My mistake came when I was instructed to start Color B, I took one of the cut strands from A and stitched across.
Since enlightened. I assume I’ll be facing the same method when I attempt The Sand Drift blanket, hopefully my next project.
KJ
Hi there maybe it’s in the pattern but I just can’t see it! If I want to make a scarf , how many stir iced do I cast on please? Many thanks
Hi Robyn,
Thanks for reaching out to double check! You can find the cast-on number for both the Scarf and Wrap sizes right beneath the heading “PATTERN.” For reference, I’ll copy that line below:
With Color A (see Notes), cast on 47 (85) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Is this a beginner friendly pattern?
Hi Carol,
Thanks so much for writing in! I’d say this wrap is a great one for adventurous beginners to try! The stitch itself is quite simple (it’s seed stitch, i.e. alternating knits and purls) and very relaxing and meditative once you get into the rhythm. I’d recommend giving the pattern a look over before starting though; one thing to keep in mind is the color change rows, which are worked over the course of 4 rows, as well as the turn + slide instructions. You can practice these techniques with your swatch by casting on an odd number of stitches and once you’re comfortable with those, you should be good to go! If you have any questions, please feel free to email us at [email protected] and we’re happy to help.
All the best,
Cat
Hi All,
I’m confused not by the technicality but by the words used: there are two items, called “blanket,” “wrap,” and “scarf.” I’m not clear which is which, since it looks like the smaller (scarf?) is knitted with thicker needles (7 mm) and the larger (wrap?) is knitted with 4.5 mm needles? But the same number of skeins.
Thank you!
-Inge
Hi Inge,
Thanks for reaching out. All the versions of this design are knit with the same size needles! We recommend using a size US 7 needle, which is 4.5mm thick. Both the Wrap and the Scarf use the same amount of skeins because you need 1 skein of each color, regardless of the size of the project. (But you’ll end up with more leftover yarn if you make the Scarf!) Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi team! So excited to make this wrap. I can’t figure out, though, how to hold one color double (e.g. dark iris) when there’s only one skein. I hand spin my skeins, so maybe that’s the problem; that there aren’t two ends to grab from? Thinking I could create two separate balls of yarn, but then I see that I actually need three because each color is then paired with another after being held double with itself. Hmm…
Thanks!!
Hi Sarah,
That’s a great question! We generally recommend pulling from both the inside and outside of the yarn to work with 2 strands of the same color, but as you mentioned, that will only work if you’ve wound the yarn into a center-pull cake. But I wanted to let you know that there is a great way to wind your yarn into a center-pull cake by hand! To do so, just take a cylinder (an empty toilet paper roll works great) and wind the yarn around that. When you’re done winding, just remove the cylinder from the center, and you’ll be ready to knit from both ends!
All the best,
Lili
Good afternoon,
Would it cause problems if I work in the color change pattern back to back, without returning to the stitch pattern in between? Thanks!
Hi Gabrielle,
That’s a great question! The color change section requires you to have an extra amount of yarn set aside because of the colors you’re using. This would be more cumbersome on the wrap version because of the number of skeins you have on hand. I wouldn’t recommend it, but you’re always welcome to try it if you like the turn and slide!
I hope that helps, but please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Conceptually and literally I do not understand the slide method working with a circular needle. If the cast on is on the left needle, then you start the pattern using the right needle. When you finish, all the stitches are on the right needle. How else can you begin the next row without turning the work so the stitches can again be worked onto the right needle.
Also, what is the purpose of a 3 – 5 yard tail when cutting the yarn vs. a shorter amount?
Not getting very far, I am trying to work on this with other yarn (19 stitches + 6 rows) before I actually start the project to be sure I understand what to do. Right now, I don’t.
Hi C.P.,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that you’re having trouble with this pattern! To slide your work, first lay your work and needles out on a flat surface. You’ll notice that your stitches are closer to the left-hand side of your needle cord once positioned like this. Then, just move the stitches over (without turning the work), so that they’re closer to the right-hand side of your needle cord. Finally, once you pick up your work again (with the same side still facing you), your stitches will be on the left needle ready to knit.
Another important thing to keep in mind is that you’re working with two different working yarns at this point in the pattern! So while your original working yarn will be at the opposite end of the pattern once you slide it, your other working yarn will be at the correct edge, so that you can start knitting with it once you slide the stitches.
In answer to your other question, the reason the pattern instructs to cut a long tail at these spots is so that you can keep knitting with the tail while also using the skein of the same color separately. This is important when your New Color uses one of the same colors as your Original Color!
I hope this helps clarify things, and please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much for this guidance. You’ve certainly cleared up the density collecting in my mind.
I am an experienced knitter who has been admiring this pattern, but am a bit confused by the instructions. I have used circular needles but am more comfortable using straight needles. Is it possible to make this project (I would make the scarf) on straight needles. Thank you.
Hi Monica,
I’m afraid that you won’t be able to use straight needles for this project, since it sometimes involves sliding your stitches, rather than turning your work. But the good news is that knitting flat on circular needles is pretty much the same as knitting on straight needles (expect for the times when you have to slide the work in this pattern)!
All the best,
Lili
I am wondering what the purpose is of the turn and slide? Can’t you just follow the color change rows in the normal stitch pattern?
Hi Molly,
That’s a great question! The slide and turn rows of the color change are to simply keep your stitches in pattern with a smooth color transition. You could absolutely just continue knitting in pattern but your project might have more of a color block effect rather than the minimal transition written into the pattern. I hope this helps but please feel free to let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
If I wanted to make a wider and shorter wrap can you give me some suggestions on dimensions and how many stitches to cast on, and any other necessary information? I would like something around 24 inches wide. thanks!
Hi Jane,
Thanks for writing in! To modify the size of this pattern, you will want to begin by making a gauge swatch. Once you do that, you can measure your stitches per inch and multiply that by your desired width and this will give you your cast-on number. This stitch repeat is worked over an odd number of stitches so you will want to keep that in mind. For a scarf of 24″ with a pattern gauge of 19 sts per 4 inches, you will cast on a total of 115 stitches.
I hope this helps but please let me know if you need any further assistance!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi there! Under the “stitch pattern” section, it says “worked over an odd number of rows,” but the stitch pattern is two rows. Is it supposed to be “worked over an odd number of stitches” or am I missing something? Thanks for your help!
Hi Kendyl,
Good catch! This stitch pattern is indeed worked over a odd number of stitches! I will be sure to have our team edit this soon!
All the best,
Gavriella