Perfect Fit Socks
“Fits like a glove” may reign in the idiom kingdom, but feet, too, require snug and tailored coverings. Our Perfect Fit Socks are just that and do, in fact, fit like a glove!
Knit from the top of the leg down to the toe, our Perfect Fit Socks employ 2×2 ribbing so they hug the calves instead of slump around the ankles. A slip stitch heel flap pads the back of the foot; a grafted toe means no abrasive seams on your tootsies; and the length of the foot is adjustable to the wearer.
We introduced our original Perfect Fit Socks ten years ago, using a very fine sock yarn. Here, we’ve updated the pattern in a slightly heavier weight and for more sizes, too. Now the Perfect Fit Socks fit small kids, big adults, and everyone in between and are perfectly midweight in our beautiful Posy, a hand-dyed blend of 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon.
Posy, too, has undergone a refresh! Now, instead of 100-gram Posy and 25-gram Pocket Posy, we have one Posy that falls somewhere in the middle at 50 grams and 159 yards. It’s the same incredibly soft and beautiful yarn, just in a new size skein… And also in five new colors!
The new Posy palette includes three gorgeous blues (Blue Dusk, Bellflower Blue, and Cloudless Sky), plus purple Mountain Lupine and Basil Green. Along with many of Posy’s original colors, there are now 16 beauties to choose from… Perfect!
Update: Now In Fine Print
October 2024
We updated this classic Purl Soho pattern so you can knit it in our super fun printed sock yarn, Fine Print! The same cozy 2×2 ribbing, the same cushy slip-stitch heel, and the same comfy grafted toe, but now in our elastic, durable fingering-weight yarn made of 75% superwash wool and 25% nylon. Although incredibly soft, your Perfect Fit Socks in Fine Print will also be tough enough to last through daily wear and many trips through the washer and dryer!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoPerfectFitSocks, and #PurlSohoPosy. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 (2, 2, 3) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Posy, 75% superwash merino, 15% cashmere, and 10% nylon. Each skein is 159 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 115 (195, 295, 350) total yards required. We used the colors Pink Papaya, Azalea Glow, Bellflower Blue, and Blue Dusk.
- A set of US 1½ (2.75 mm) double pointed needles
- A Perfect Fit Socks Pattern
Gauge
34 stitches and 48 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
Small Kid (Big Kid, Adult Small/Medium, Adult Medium/Large)
- Foot Circumference: Comfortably stretch to about 5½ (7, 8, 9) inches
- Leg Circumference: Comfortably stretch to about 6½ (8½, 10, 11) inches
- Foot Length: Adjustable
Samples: We knit up two Small Kid pairs of socks, one Big Kid pair, and an Adult Small/Medium pair.
Pattern
The Perfect Fit Socks Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
What is the difference between Toe-up socks and this pattern (except toe-up vs top-down)?
Hi Diane,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct, this sock is knit from the top down and also features a 2×2 rib stitch throughout the leg down to the toe. Wile the Toe-up Socks are knit from the toe up and features both a 2×2 Rib or Twisted Rib to select from! Ultimately, when finished these socks look very similar, mainly the difference comes down to the construction or if you like the Twisted Rib better than the 2×2 rib!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
For a first time sock knitter, and intermediate knitter overall, would you recommend the Perfect Fit Sock or the Color Block sock pattern? I intend to use Posy, and the Magic Loop method.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend the Perfect Fit Socks for your first pair, it is a very simple sock design and will demonstrate all of the basics, like a heel flap, that are featured in most sock patterns! I would then recommend the Easy Heel Colorblock Socks for a 2nd pair!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I own the original Perfect Knit Socks pattern. Can I use it with the new midweight Posy?
Hi Ann,
Thanks for reaching out! The new pattern is actually much different from the older version, the first was written for a lace weight yarn and smaller needle size and we have now update the yarn gauge and needles for the midweight Posy! So even though they share the same name and design they are two very different versions! So if you plan on using Posy, the new pattern will be much more suitable since everything from the cast on amount to the decreases has been altered.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Might it be possible to knit the sock using the Magic Loop method instead of dpn? I have only used Magic Loop for socks, but will give dpns a try if there is an advantage to this pattern. I know it can get kind of fiddly to do gusset and decreases with Magic Loop if the pattern is designed for DPNs. I just bought the pattern and yarn for two pairs of socks, so I’m going to knit them one way or another! Thank you!
Hi Christine,
Thanks for writing in! I am the same- I prefer to use Magic Loop for socks and it should to be totally fine to use that for this method! The only thing to keep an eye out for is that since this pattern is designed for DPNs, dividing the stitches up may be a bit different since you won’t be working on multiple needles. Other than that you shouldn’t have any problems!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you, Gianna! I am making another pair right now that is written for DPNs. I found a tutorial on YouTube for dividing the heel and gusset stitches for Magic Loop, so I think that will help.
Hi Christine,
That sounds great! I hope everything works smoothly and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
All the best,
Gianna
Good day,
I’m just about ready to start this pattern and noticed conflicting needle size. It calls for 1.5US but 2.75mm. My 2US needles are 2.75mm so I’m doing the gauge but would love your clarification.
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, there are some inconsistencies with US needles sizes between different brands… When in doubt I always recommend going with the mm size rather than the US size. So in this case your 2.75mm needles should be fine!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
My 1.5US needles are 2.5mm, but I have narrower feet and ankles so I used them anyway and knit the Adult Small/Medium and they fit perfectly.
Thanks Gianna,
The gauge for the 2.75 came out perfect so YOU WERE RIGHT!
Sandra
I bought the pattern and the yarn which is lovely, but I am stuck on the first sock. I have separated 30 stitches to one needle but before that it says turn work – does that mean inside out? I am confused as to what to do. Please help! Thank you!
Hi Emma,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! So I can get a better idea, what size are you making and what section of the pattern are you on at the moment?
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Gianna, I am making the largest sock. I am up to this direction Heel
WORK HEEL FLAP
Partial Row (right side): [K2, p2] 2 (2, 3, 3) times, k2, turn work so wrong side is facing you.
I didn’t do this – I am not sure what it means to turn the work in the middle of the pattern or how to manage a partial row in the round.
Thank you for any advice you can provide!
Hi Emma,
Thanks for reaching out! Basically, you are working a “Short Row” which means you are only working over a smaller number of stitches back and forth rather than continuing to work across all of the stitches! So once you k2, you will simply flip the work so that the wrong side of the fabric is facing you and you will then begin to work over those same stitches! The technique is a bit different when working with socks, but to see what a classic short row is supposed to look like, I would recommend checking out our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial!
I hope this helps, please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hi!
I’m having trouble also with the short rows. I just don’t understand. I’m starting at the heel, do I need to start in the middle for the first repeat? I knitting 2 k and 2 p, repeat it 4 times and then turn work. Then I need to 2 p and 2 knit 7 times? And then turn and ga 2 k and 2 p repeat 4 times? I checked the video but with the wrap and decrease I don’t get it.
Hope you can help me, greeting from sunny Albufeira Portugal
Hi Conny,
Thanks for reaching out. Are you referring to the Partial Rows in the WORK HEEL FLAP section? If so, then these are different from wrap + turn short rows! Specifically, you do not need to make a wrap at all, you will simply turn the work and continue on to the following row. So all you’ll need to do for these Partial Rows is to repeat the [k2, p2] (or [p2, k2]) however many times is indicated for your size, and then turn your work. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I made my socks in size medium using Posy. They came out beautifully except for the toes which are much shorter than 1 3/4″ length indicating in the pattern. For adult size medium, I figured it takes 6 rounds when repeating Round 1 and 2 for toe to reduce from 52 total stitches to 40. After that, it’s another 6 rounds of repeating Row 1 only to go down to 16 total stitches. That’s a total of 12 rounds. The gauge for this pattern is 34 stitches and 48 rounds per 4″. That will make 12 rounds of knitting to be 1″, which is exactly how long my toe is rather than 1 3/4″. Maybe I miss interpreted the pattern. Any advice will be greatly appreciate it. Thank you
Hi Reiko,
That’s a very good observation and question! The “Final Foot Length” measurement actually refers to the length of your foot, and not the length of the finished sock. Socks should generally fit with a bit of negative ease, and the shorter length of the toe makes that possible in this pattern! I hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
For the heel flap, it just says to slip stitch purlwise, knit 1 (on the right side). I’ve been slipping the stitch with the yarn in front, but should I have been doing it with the yarn in back?
Hi Kathleen,
Yes, this stitch should be slipped with yarn in back! When in doubt, the default for slipped stitches is almost always wyib, and a pattern will generally indicate “wyif” if it should be slipped wyif. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you. I thought mine was looking weird, so I just unraveled what I had done and fixed it.
I have used a Classic Sock pattern for years. However, I find that they are always too loose. I have reduced my needle sizes to .5, but they are still too loose. I know the perfect sock pattern has more ribbing and that should help. I am a little concerned about increasing my needle size to a 1.5 or a two.
Hi Marcia,
Thanks for reaching out. I’d recommend knitting up a gauge swatch before beginning these socks! The ribbing will definitely make them fit better, but checking your gauge is the only way to be positive. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge! If you would like to learn more about this, we have a handy tutorial called All About Gauge. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m glad to see a perfect fit pattern using a slightly larger needle. I have the original pattern. I want to make men’s socks with a shoe size 9. Is it better to make it with using the Adult S/M and make the length the right size? I’m afraid the Adult large will be too big, though the circumference size states 9 inches, which is almost my size, a women shoe size 7.
Hi Micky,
Thanks for reaching out! Were you planning on using the original pattern, but with larger needles and thicker yarn? If that’s the case, then I’d recommend making a gauge swatch with your intended yarn and needles. Once you figure out how many stitches per inch you’re getting, then you can calculate the circumference of each size based on the cast-on numbers in the original pattern. That should give you a better sense of which size will work!
I hope this helps, but please let me know if you were thinking of something else!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for your reply. I am using the new pattern because I wanted to use a slightly bigger needle, which is easier to knit and on my hands. I decided to try the adult medium/large since the cast on is less than other patterns. The picture shows a narrow sock, so I’m sure it will fit. I’m using the same needle and yarn I’ve used before.
Hi Micky,
Thanks for letting me know! From my own experience, I would recommend making the Adult M/L size. I wear a men’s size 8.5 shoe, and that was the perfect size for me, if not slightly large! So I think it would be perfect for someone who wears size 9.
The best way to make sure you’re knitting the correct size for the recipient though is to take their measurements. If you measure their foot and leg circumferences, you can compare those to the measurements given in the SIZES section of the pattern to determine exactly which size would be best to make. Just be sure to swatch beforehand to make sure that your gauge matches that of the pattern!
The photos of the socks may seem very narrow, but that’s because they’re knit almost entirely in 2 x 2 ribbing. They will stretch considerably!
All the best,
Lili
I’m excited to try this pattern. It seems like the posy yarn is no longer available, is there another yarn you recommend for this project?
Hi Olivia,
That’s a great question! We actually just released a version of this pattern in Quartz recently. While it’s not a traditional “sock yarn,” we’ve found Quartz to be a great substitute for it in the meantime and definitely recommend giving it a try!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I took measurements of my calf and foot, and my foot circumference lines up perfectly with the adult M/L, but I am a bit more concerned with my calf. The largest size says it should stretch to 11 inches in circumference in the leg. I’m looking at the pattern, I noticed that this size calls us to knit 8 inches for the leg. When I measure 8 inches up from my ankle, that part of my leg is about 14” in circumference.
So I’m just a bit worried that if I knit the full 8 inches, I won’t be able to pull it up all the way without it feeling very tight.
Would it be best for me to simply reduce the length of the leg? I measured from the base of my ankle to the part of my leg at which there is an 11” circumference and that is about 5.5” away from my ankle. Should I reduce from 8” to 5.5” on the leg?
FYI, I did knit a test swatch and decided to size down to a 2.00 mm needle, and have worked about 2” of the leg so far.
Hi Daphne,
Thank you for writing in! Although you will knit up to 8″ for the leg of your sock in pattern, once you put on the sock, this portion of your leg stitches will grow with the ribbing and actually sits less than 8″ up your leg. In other words, as your leg expands in width, it will shrink in length because of the negative ease. It may fit around 5-6″ rather than 8. This is because your leg and foot will fill out the fabric of your sock from flat to more of a three-dimensional shape. I would suggest knitting the full 8″, placing your stitches onto a length of scrap yarn and then trying on your sock to see how it fit. This will allow you to see if your sock indeed fits your foot with the amount of ease provided within the ribbed fabric.
If your sock fits, you can continue on to the heel and gusset, if the sock feels entirely too tight, you could rip back a few inches to a length that better fits your preference. I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thank you! I will give it a shot!
Hi,
I am knitting a similar sock pattern and wanted to know if your Line Weight yarn would be a reasonable substitute for the original Posy. I know it won’t have the stretch that the nylon in the Posy would provide and that hand washing would be required. I just love the soft feel of the Line Weight and I have made several pair of toddler socks from it with good result. Thoughts?
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for writing in! Line Weight would definitely work in terms of the gauge of the pattern if it was originally designed for Posy. However, since Line Weight is so soft and has no reinforcing nylon in it, I would not recommend it for socks that get a lot of wear and tear. It would make super warm and cozy lounge socks though!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, I am making my first ever sock pattern and I’m wondering if there is a typo in the Heel section, on the flap portion where you repeat slip stitches on right and wrong sides. Row 1 has a sl 1, k1 repeat across the row, but row 2 says sl 1, purl to end across row with no repeat. Is this correct or should it be sl 1, p 1 repeat?
Hi Karen,
Thank you for writing in! For this section of the pattern you will want to purl all the stitches to the end of your row. So you will not be repeating the Sl1,P1 but instead slipping just the first stitch and then purling the rest.
I hope this helps clarify!
All the best,
Gavriella
hello,
i use mini circ’s for socks. why do you write the directions for dpn’s? most people i know have switched to the 9 inch circs.
are you going to modify?
Hi Berrit,
I believe that we designed this pattern with DPNs in mind since they are easier to find in stores than 9-inch circular needles, and most knitters already own them! You can make this pattern work for circular needles though by placing a stitch marker where the gap between the needles would be. Then, you can follow the pattern as written, treating the stitches between each marker as each DPN. I hope this helps make this pattern work for the tools you have available!
All the best,
Lili
Hi There! I’m stuck on the Heel Flap section. How do I work that section on magic loop?
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for writing in! The best way to translate these instructions to work for magic loop is to remember that the front needle holds the Needle 1 stitches, and the back needle holds the Needle 2 and 3 stitches. You can place a stitch marker in the middle of the back needle stitches to distinguish between Needles 2 and 3. That way, whenever you see “Needle 1,” “Needle 2,” etc. referenced, you can translate that to “front needle” or “back needle”!
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
All the best,
Gavriella