Ainur Berkimbayeva For Purl Soho: Thistle Yoke Pullover
Ainur Berkimbayeva is a form-follows-function kind of designer, a person who sees opportunity in knitting’s constraints, who tackles geometry with confidence and ingenuity, and who ekes beauty out of every stitch. These talents and more materialize in Ainur’s Thistle Yoke Pullover, designed especially for Purl Soho!

A stunning ring of thistle-y petals backdropped by garter-ridge stripes, this yoke is a short-row tour-de-force. Knit sideways and flat, this part may look a bit intimidating, but super-easy German Short Rows simplify the knitting gymnastics.

Graft the yoke together at center back, then pick up along its bottom edge to continue à la your usual top-down sweater… But in the end, so not usual!

Besides the striking yoke, this sweater steals the show with its soft and squishy garter stitch texture, which makes a full 90-degree turn at the moment short-row colorwork cedes to one-color garter stitch. Talk about form following function!

With all this action, we love Ainur’s decision to keep the yarn naturally understated. One hundred percent undyed Andean highland wool, our Good Wool fits the bill, settling the design into a cozy world of wood grain, pine cones, rays of sunshine, and yes, the beautiful blossom of a thistle!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!

UPDATE: NEW COLORS
FEBRUARY 2022

Now you can make your Thistle Yoke Pullover in a meadow of beautiful tones! We’ve added gorgeous dyed colors to the Good Wool collection, hues as vibrant as fresh Fern Green or as soft and gentle as Periwinkle Gray… We hope you have a field day choosing!
Designed for Purl Soho by Ainur Berkimbayeva.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoThistleYokePullover, and #PurlSohoGoodWool. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials

Purl Soho’s Good Wool, 100% Andean highland wool yarn. Each skein of this sport weight yarn is approximately 383 yards/ 100 grams.
- Main Color (MC): 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins; approximately 1080 (1210, 1375, 1545, 1705, 1870, 2045, 2170) yards required. We used Heirloom White for one version and Walking Stick for the other.
- Contrast Color (CC): 1 skein; approximately 190 (200, 215, 215, 230, 230, 245, 255) yards required. We used Hickory Nut for the Heirloom White version and Winter Grass for the Walking Stick version.
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 3, 32- or 40-inch circular needles (depending on size you are making)
- A set of US 3 double pointed needles
- A stitch marker
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Thistle Yoke Pullover Pattern
Gauge
22 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
34½ (38¼, 42½, 47, 51¼, 55¾, 60, 64¼)
To fit actual chest circumference of approximately 30–33 (34–37, 38–41, 42–46, 47–50, 51–54, 55–59, 60–63) inches, with 1–4 inch(es) of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 34½ (38¼, 42½, 47, 51¼, 55¾, 60, 64¼) inches
- Finished Length From Neck To Bottom Edge: 21¾ (22½, 23½, 24½, 25¼, 25¾, 26¾, 27) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length From Underarm: 18 (18, 17½, 17½, 17, 17, 16½, 16) inches
Sample: The sweaters shown here are size 38¼, modeled with 4 inches of ease.
Pattern

The Thistle Yoke Pullover Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.



LEARN ABOUT GOOD WOOL + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Good Wool adds loads of character, beauty, and integrity to this knit! A sport-weight yarn whose lofty 2-ply spin can also bloom into a light worsted/DK-weight yarn, Good Wool is made from 100% Andean highland wool, a toothy fiber with a deeply natural appeal. This yarn has a spectacular palette of complex and subtly varied colors, including 5 undyed shades. Very close to the hearts of our customers, Good Wool is a true knitter’s yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Good Wool knitting patterns and cast on!
More Sport-Weight Yarns + Light Worsted/DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of sport-weight yarn
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarn
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
The sweater is so beautiful! I would like to make this in a child size. Do you have a pattern for that? Or could I use a thinner yarn and smaller needles? Do you have any guidance for adapting the pattern to child size?
Thanks
Hi Cecilia,
Thank you so much for the kind words! Unfortunately, we do not have instructions for children’s sizes for this sweater. While you might be able to make a smaller version by using smaller yarn and needles, it’s very difficult to predict what size you will end up with and whether the proportions of the sweater will be distorted, especially when knitting a sweater with unusual construction like this one. Also, we already knit our original sweater on a US 3 needle, so you could end up on a very small needle indeed! A child’s version is a lovely idea, however, so I will be sure to pass your suggestion along to the design team.
All the best,
Julianna
I have extra skeins of Big Good Wool. Do you think I could adapt the beautiful Thistle Yoke sweater to a chunkier knit?
Hi Dana,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, it won’t be possible to knit this sweater in Big Good Wool without re-writing the pattern completely. The weight difference between Good Wool and Big Good Wool is quite drastic, so every part of the pattern would have to be altered, which is especially difficult in a sweater with unusual construction like this one. I would recommend using Good Wool or another sport to DK weight yarn that knits up to the correct gauge, but I will certainly pass along your suggestion for a Big Good Wool sweater to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Can this be done in Flax Down (my favorite!)? If so, how do I convert the pattern? I see it calls for size 3 needles, and I knit the Flax Down on 7’s.
This is beautiful, and could be spectacular in Flax Down.
Hi Margaret,
Thank you so much for the kind words! Flax Down is a bit heavier weight than Good Wool, but it might work! I would recommend knitting a swatch to see if you are able to match our gauge of 22 stitches and 44 rows to 4 inches in garter stitch, and if you can, then deciding if you are happy with the fabric you end up with. Even if you are able to get the correct gauge, you may find that the knitting turns out too dense and stiff when Flax Down is worked this tightly. We haven’t tried it, however, so I can’t say for sure!
I hope it turns out well!
Julianna
Would Cashmere Merino Bloom be the softest, least itchy yarn for this in the correct gauge? I cannot usually wear 100% wool, and this sweater will probably be worn right against the skin, with no layering.
Thanks!
Can’t wait to start this…..
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for reaching out! Cashmere Merino Bloom would be an excellent option for this pullover, it is extra soft and very comfortable to wear against your skin!
I hope you enjoy the pattern, happy knitting!
Gianna
BEAUTIFUL Sweater.
BEAUTIFUL SWEATER!!
This sweater is beautiful!!
What other yarn would you recommend for this sweater that has more color options? Love the pattern but might prefer some other color choices as I don’t wear a lot of browns.
Hi Michele,
Great question! Although you will have to knit a swatch to determine what needle size to use, I think Mulberry Merino or Cashmere Merino Bloom would be gorgeous for this sweater!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Beautiful! What would you suggest if I wanted a slightly lighter yarn? That sweater must be quite warm…
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! Good Wool is quite lofty, but as with all wool yarns, it does result in a cozy warm sweater. Our Cotton Pure is the correct weight for this pullover and should result in much cooler garment!
Best,
Julianna
Thanks!
Hi, what a wonderful pullover, is the pattern also in German available?
Hi Elspeth,
Thank you so much for the kind words! At present, our patterns are only available in English, but we certainly appreciate the request!
All the best,
Julianna
I really love this design but I am having difficulties finding a suitable yarn in UK stores. Sadly the duties to import the original yarn would be very expensive and the delays atm would present more problems.
Is it possible to advise on an alternative available in the UK as I do not know of any store that stops the yarn used. Thank you
Hi Poppy,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m afraid I’m not familiar with yarns that are commonly available in the UK, but you should be able to use almost any sport weight or 4 ply yarn for this sweater.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you very much. I wasn’t sure if the yarn was a softer merino type or a more woolly wool. I am currently looking at some natural 4ply yarn with the same yardage although I think I will need to order a skein to see if I can achieve gauge.
Thank you for your help as my notebook and mind was full of trying to find a substitute. I would purchase the actual yarn but no-one sells it in the UK. I really appreciate your reply
Hi. In the yoke section of the pattern rows 33/34 are a repeat of rows 5/6. Row 5 is after a MC short row of 9, and line 33 is after a MC short row of 13. So if you follow the pattern to “knit to double stitch… k16) you end up with different stitch counts before creating a double stitch. The pictures seem to indicate that the CC short rows (rows 5 and 33) should be the same stitch count. Don’t think it will be a huge difference, but it could be clearer.
Hi Clare,
Thanks for writing in! The repeat of Row 5 is actually correct! The first time you knit Row 5, the prior MC short row was 9 stitches long, so when you knit 16 more stitches the next double stitch was on the 25th stitch of the row. When you repeat it, the prior MC short row was 13 stitches long, so after knitting 16 more stitches, you end up working the DS on the 29th stitch, or second to last stitch of the row. In the picture on the front page of the pattern, you can see the short rows in the dark brown triangle and one of them is closer to the collar than the other one. It might seem like the two short rows should end on the same stitch, but this works out as it should!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks for clarifying,
Clare
Beautiful sweater. I would actually be interested in knitting it in just one color without contrast as I really like the garter stitch look, hate sewing seems AND I am not advanced enough as a knitter yet to do the contrast yoke. Would it be easy to convert the pattern to just one color and no contrast?
Hi Jennifer,
Great question! The colorwork in the yoke of this sweater is accomplished with super simple stripes so it’s really quite easy, but you could certainly knit it in a single color if you prefer! To do so, you can just go ahead and follow the instructions all in one color, ignoring the instructions to change colors. This won’t affect the one seam you will have to graft, and you may still see a slight suggestion of the triangles since there is a short row at the top of each main color row. It will probably also be a little harder to easily see which row you are on, so I recommend taking extra care in tracking your rows!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello! My gauge with the Good Wool and size 3 needles is 3.5 x 3.5 inches and in size 4 needles is 3 7/8 x 4 inches. I hesitate to go to size 5 needles. Any thoughts? Would using size 4 needles and going for a size larger help?
Hi Jackie,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you are very close to the right gauge with US 4 needles! I would recommend knitting a larger swatch on the US 4 needles and also washing and blocking it. Everybody’s edge stitches are a little wonky so they shouldn’t be included in the measurement, and a larger swatch always results in a more accurate measurement. For this pattern, I would cast on at least 28 stitches and knit for 5 inches, and then wash and block the swatch before measuring the center 4 inches. Good Wool also blooms slightly when washed, so this may be enough to coax your stitches into the correct gauge! You might be interested in our new All About Gauge tutorial, which takes an in-depth look at how to get the most information from your gauge swatch.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi again, I knitted and blocked swatches using 30 stitches with needles 3 and 4 and did not get the right gauge measurement for this project. Then I knitted a swatch with size 5 and I get very close. I actually feel like knitting another swatch with size 6 which I believe would get me there. I went back to the Good Wool page in your site and read that the suggested needles for this yarn is US 5 – 7 (3.75 – 4.5 mm) and the gauge 5 – 5.5 stitches per inch. These are quite different from the needle and gauge recommendations in the project. I’m wondering–is it OK to knit this sweater with size 6 needles if these are what get me to the right gauge, given that the designer used needles in size 3 (smaller than your site’s recommendation)? I got the supplies for this project but I’m worried that these discrepancies will result in other issues down the road while working in this project. Thank you!
Hi Jackie,
Thanks for reaching out! It is totally fine to use a larger needle than recommended for the pattern if it getting you the correct gauge. As long as the gauge is consistent with the pattern you shouldn’t run into problems down the line!
If you have any more questions moving forward please feel free to reach out!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! The color work section is knit sideways with the two edges grafted in the back. After the color work section is complete you will pick up the stitches and continue the yoke working top down in the round, then divide the body and sleeves and go on working top down in the round.
I hope that helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi, I’m a bit confused about using the provisional cast-on method for the yoke. When I use the Kitchener stitch to graft the edges together, am I supposed to remove the cast-on stitches? If so, should I cut the CC yarn after I cast on the stitches and before I start the first short row? And finally, if I am cutting the yarn, which end should I start knitting the first short row on – with the first cast on stitch, or the last one? Thanks!
Hi Emma,
Thank you for reaching out! You will be placing the stitches from the Provisional Cast-on onto a spare circular needle while you use the Kitchener Stitch with the CC tail to graft the edges together. The CC should already be cut before beginning this section after finishing the two-color section of the yoke (since you will be using the tail) once you finish grafting the edges together you can trim the tail further if needed but make sure you leave plenty to weave the ends in.
Next, with right side facing you and beginning at the center back you’ll rejoin the MC yarn and begin picking up stitches along the bottom edge of the yoke. You’ll place a maker and join the work in the round. This marker will indicate where you start the rows for the short row shaping section.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
Thanks for your reply! But, I don’t think I was clear in my question. I’m a little confused about what to do at the very beginning of the yoke (for the two color section). In the provisional cast-on directions, it says that after I’ve cast on, I should cut my yarn, and then join the working yarn. But, since I’m supposed to cast on with CC yarn instead of scrap yarn, should I just keep going with the yarn I used?
Hi Emma,
I am happy to assist! At the beginning of the yoke you use the Provisional Cast-On with your Contrasting Color, you do not need to cut your CC yarn since you will be working Rows 1 and 2 with it before joining your MC and working Row 3.
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions going forward!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
I had a similar question, so was happy to see this response. In the provisional cast on tutorial, you end with a loop, so I am not sure how to continue knitting with the CC without cutting the yarn (or pulling the whole ball through the loop??) Clearly I am thinking about this wrong–could you help?
Thanks!
Sophie
Hi Sophie,
That’s a great question! In this case, you can end the provisional cast-on right before the step where you chain a few stitches. Just slip the final loop onto your needles (as the last stitch), and you’ll be ready to start knitting!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, the pattern looks interesting. It sounds as if after the yoke is joined and stitches are picked up, it’s knitted top down in the round. However, the photo of the back in the brown version looks like it has a seam going all the way down. Is that an illusion, or is the body actually not knitted in the round?
Thank you.
Hi Lam,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, the body is in fact knit in the round! The color work section is knit sideways with the two edges grafted in the back. After the color work section is complete you will pick up the stitches and continue the yoke working top down in the round, then divide the body and sleeves and go on working top down in the round.
I hope that helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Gianna and Lam! I think what you are seeing down the back is the “jog” that garter stitch in the round creates. There are ways to solve this that I researched on YouTube, but it seems pretty complicated.
I am trying to decide if I will just keep the jog or try to solve it when I get the yoke finished!
What do you think, Gianna? Does PurlSoho have a tutorial about this?
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, there is a jog in the back from working the garter stitch in the round. We don’t have a tutorial on how to change the jog but thank you for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the team!
Please feel free to reach out with any more questions you may have!
Best,
Gianna
Hi Gianna –
I think I have a related question to Emma’s and I’m not figuring it out based on your earlier answer (not yet, anyway). I’m new to short rows, so it may just be my lack of familiarity with the method and the notation.
I’m just starting the yoke. When I start Row 3 and join my MC, I’m leaving the CC working yarn where it is. I knit 9 stitches, and then do the double stitch thing by turning around the piece and start purling back to the origin of Row 3 on the wrong side. Row 4 then takes me knitting all the way across to the other end of the row. So then how do I pick up the MC since it’s been left on the opposite side?
Perhaps I’m misunderstanding the notation or the basic concept – it’s not clear to me why something is called a short row if I’m knitting across the whole row.
Would appreciate your guidance!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! So I think the problem is that after you are working the double stitch you are continuing knitting the same row but after working the double stitch and turning your work you start row 4 immediately after that and knitting back to the beginning (end of the row,) meaning back to where you started and where the CC yarn is waiting for you! So for Short Row 3: With MC, k9, make double stitch (see Special Instructions) and then TURN THE WORK and work Short Row 4: With MC, knit to end of row. (working back to the beginning) and then you will pick up your CC and begin row 5!
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi I am almost done the yoke around the first time. How when I read short rows 37 and 38 which is a repeat of rows 1and 2 except it doesn’t mention picking up the double stitch . Is this correct or should it be picked up?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! For 37 + 38 you will be repeating rows 1 + 2 as written: Short Row 1 (right side): With CC, knit to end of row. Short Row 2 (wrong side): With CC, p1, knit to end of row.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
So on rows 37 and 38 you do not knit the double stitch as a single stitch? What do you do with the double stitch? Will you have another stitch in the row if you don’t knit it as a single stitch?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! For Short Rows 37 and 38 you will be Repeat Short Rows 1 and 2, Short Row 1 (right side): With CC, knit to end of row and Short Row 2 (wrong side): With CC, p1, knit to end of row. You will be working over all the stitches in the row and working any double stitches as a single stitch (see special instructions) as you were when previously repeating rows 1 and 2!
I hope this clears things up, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello — could the body and sleeves of this be knitted in stocking stitch to the correct length for a slightly lighter sweater? This would also take less yarn, but is there a formula for such a substitution? Thanks! Onni
Hi Onni,
Thanks for reaching out! Since this sweater is knit from the top down in garter stitch, it would be a bit difficult to alter the sleeves to be knit in stockinette stitch since you are working continuously from the neck down. If you wanted to work stockinette stitch then it would be better to knit the entire sweater that way, not just the sleeves. However, I wouldn’t recommend it since this would require quite a bit of alteration to the pattern.
Warmly,
Gianna
Can the body of this sweater be knit in plain stockinette instead of garter stitch? If so, does the pattern need to be modified?
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! I wouldn’t recommend working the sweater in stockinette stitch. This would require quite a bit of alteration to the pattern, especially since stockinette is a different gauge than garter and you would need to adjust the cast on/stitch counts.
Warmly,
Gianna
Does this pattern include any method of making the back neckline higher than the front?
Thank you.
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for reaching out! The way the pattern is designed, the back neck is naturally a bit taller than the front neckline already! However, at this time we do not include instructions for adding height to the back neck since the back is already taller than the front neck, but thank you for sharing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along.
Warmly,
Gianna
Oh boy, would I love to make this in a cardigan! You all do such beautiful things with texture. I love the Faceted Yoke Pullover I made (I guess I have a type!) but what I really NEED is a cardigan….maybe buttoning down the back. Or maybe black and white for that David Rose, Schitt’s Creek look. Hmmmm.
Hi Jen,
Thanks for reaching out! At this time we only have this pattern available as a pullover but thank you for expressing your interest in this design as a cardigan, I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team! As a fellow Schitt’s Creek Lover I think this pattern would look gorgeous in Black and White!
In the meantime I recommend checking out our Simple Yoke Cardigan, it is a similar design and you could certainly work the yoke in 2 colors!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I would love to use this yarn to make the triangular pattern of the yoke into a scarf. Could you please supply me with such a pattern? Please let me know how much yarn I’d need.
Thank you.
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we do not have a scarf pattern with a similar design as the yoke available. Thank you for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love Anur’s designs. Her Alaskan Pullover is one of my favorites. Does this pattern use only one color per row?
Hi kristen,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! We are also big fans of Ainur’s designs! The yoke works in short rows and only uses one color per row to create the pattern!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this sweater! Quick question: When starting the yoke two-color section, Short Row 3 says “K9, make double stitch” After making the double stitch do I then knit to the end of the row ? do I turn the work? It doesn’t say. Please let me know . . . . . Thank you.
Hi Ann,
Thanks for reaching out! You can find these instructions in the “Special Instructions” section of the pattern, once you work the double stitch you will turn the work and move directly onto the next row instead of working across the rest of the row!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you, Gianna. I love that you have this question and answer section for your patterns. Heck, I love all of Purl Soho 🙂
Hello! I love knitting this sweater, using good wool as suggested. But I am little bit stuck at page 4 , transitioning to work short row to continue. I am using 38 1/4 inches so am I suppose to have only 90 stitches (starting from a center of the back )for 3 rows then continue purling the rest of 210 stitches? I just want to make sure before I continue. Thank you so much!
Hi Natsuyo,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help, which section of the pattern are you currently on? So I can make sure to give you the correct instructions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I have finished the yoke and am picking up the stitches for the body. I’m making the smallest size so the directions call for picking up 280 stitches (one for each garter ridge-so every other row). But each thistle is 20 ridges which only adds up to 240 stitches to pick up. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks–
Meg
Part of what I’m doing wrong is my math :). The smallest size has 13 thistles with 20 ridges = 260 picked up stitches, not 280.
Thanks–
Never mind. Apparently not only cannot I do math, but I also cannot read. It says “repeat” 13 times. Oy! That’s 14 thistles with 20 garter ridges for a total of 280 stitches.
Heavy sigh.
Hi Meg,
Glad to hear you’ve figured it out already! I can commiserate with you as I often have trouble with number things like this.
All the best,
Lili
Hi!
I’ve read the questions and responses. I need to ask again about row 3 to row 4. I understand about making the double stitch. Thank you for adding that I have to turn my work after that, but then on to row 4 and knit to end of row. What do I do with the two bars of the double stitch? When I turn my work and start to knit to the side with CC, I have the two bars there. Was I supposed to slip them on to the right needle before turning my work? Obviously, I’m confused.
Thank you in advance.
Hi Suzanne,
Thanks for reaching out! After you create the double stitch and turn your work on Short Row 4, you’ll simply knit to the end of the row! You can leave the double stitch exactly where it is, because you won’t need to deal with it until the following row. Then, when you knit up to the double stitch on Short Row 5, all you’ll need to do is knit the two bars just like they’re one stitch! If you’d like to see a visual demonstration of this, we have a video tutorial right here. To see how to knit the double stitch as one stitch, you can skip straight to 2:40! I hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
I would love to see rows 1-40 (the thistle pattern) charted! I think it’s much easier to see and follow than line by line instructions. I just finished the Woolfolk “Budenny” hat which has a similar two color striping pattern with German short rows. The chart helped me see the flow of the pattern. Would you consider charting just that portion?
Thanks!
Hi Nancy,
That’s a great thought–I can certainly see how a chart might make this part of the pattern easier to follow! I’ll pass along your feedback to our design team for their consideration. Thanks for sharing your idea!
All the best,
Lili