Julie Hoover for Purl Soho: Olson
If, like me, your favorite shirts are loose with a generous armhole depth, when you want to layer something warmer over them, you can’t reach for a cardigan that has a traditional shape. That’s where Olson comes in, a cardigan inspired by a hole in my closet!
Olson has a deep Dolman sleeve and a steep shoulder slope, making it an ideal garment to pull on over almost anything. There is also subtle short-row hem shaping, slightly higher in the front than the back for a gentle sweep. In addition, a Modified Three-Needle Bind Off that celebrates (as well as joins) the long slope of the sleeve. Extra deep ribbed bands are the final touch.
For this classic knit, I chose Purl Soho’s Understory, a fantastic blend of alpaca, yak, and silk that looks and feels absolutely amazing in simple stockinette stitch. Its drape is lightweight, but it knits up into a wonderfully warm and cozy fabric.
I love the color Silver Berry, a pale lilac with a dose of gray that feels timeless and neutral but far from boring. I think it’s the perfect color for Olson, nothing too fancy but very special! -Julie
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed for Purl Soho by Julie Hoover. Currently based in Ann Arbor, Michigan, Julie Hoover designs knitwear and makes yarn, for both her own personal label and others. Her work reflects a lifelong passion for clothing and textiles, and her view that knitting is a beautiful way of creating timeless fashion, a thoughtful mix of quality and creativity, intention and care.
UPDATE: NOW IN HEDGEROW!
OCTOBER 2023
Our Hedgerow infuses your Olson with a wealth of character and vitality! Made in County Donegal, Ireland, Hedgerow has a softer feel than traditional Irish wool with 93% merino wool, 3.5% cashmere, and 3.5% mulberry silk. Its two loosely spun plies knit into a fabric full of rugged beauty that celebrates the aesthetic and integrity of time-honored Irish wool tweeds. With colorful bits (“burrs” or “nebs”) spun into the fiber, every stitch of this yarn is a joy!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoOlson, and #PurlSohoUnderstory. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 6 (6, 7, 7) (7, 7, 8, 8) skeins of Purl Soho’s Understory, 50% baby alpaca, 25% baby yak, and 25% silk. Each skein is approximately 250 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1320 (1370, 1515, 1570) (1690, 1745, 1890, 1965) yards required. We used the color Silver Berry.
- US 6 (4 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 24- or 32-inch circular needles
- A set of US 6 double pointed needles
- A stitch marker
- Scrap yarn or stitch holders
- An Olson Pattern
Gauge
18 stitches and 27 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch on larger needles, after blocking
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
40¾ (44½, 47¾, 51½) (55, 58¾, 62½, 65¾)
To fit actual chest circumference of 30–32 (34–36, 38–40, 42–44) (46–48, 50–52, 54–56, 58–60) inches with 7–10 inches of ease
- Finished Midriff Circumference: 40¾ (44½, 47¾, 51½) (55, 58¾, 62½, 65¾) inches, with front bands overlapping
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Center Back: 28 (28¼, 29¼, 29½) (30¾, 31, 32, 32¼) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Center Front: 25¼ (25½, 26¼, 26½) (28, 28¼, 29¼, 29½) inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Underarm: 14 inches
SAMPLE: The cardigan pictured here is size 44½ inches on model with 35-inch chest
Pattern
The Olson Pattern is available available as a PDF download only.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
How much seaming is involved in this pattern? What type of seam is down the outside of the sleeve? Do you have tutorials for doing seams?
Hi Diana,
Thanks for writing in! Olson is worked flat in pieces from the bottom up. The shoulders are joining using a Modified 3-Needle Bind Off, and the sleeves are sewn together. Neckband is picked up and worked flat; cuffs are picked up and worked circularly. We do have a tutorial for the 3 needle bind off. We also have a tutorial for the mattress stitch which is a lovely, clean seam for stockinette.
Best,
Cassy
I wished I could wear the colors shown here, but they do nothing for my coloring. What yarns could be substituted?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for writing in! We are happy to offer alternatives! This sweater would be lovely in Cashmere Merino Bloom or Flax Down. Both are slightly different in gauge so I would be sure to knit a gauge swatch to make sure that you are getting a pleasing fabric and the correct gauge for this lovely sweater!
Best,
Cassy
It would be great if you posted a bit more info on this pattern.. Sizes and yardage’s would be Great. Love the pattern but won’t buy until I know sizes and yardage’s. Not sure why this is not yet on Ravelry. maybe it is too new.. LOVE it !! And would knit with added info.
Hi Debra,
Thanks for writing in! The sizes for this lovely sweater are listed above. As this sweater has a lot of positive ease, be sure to note the “To fit actual chest circumference” just below the pattern sizes and choose your size based on actual chest circumference to get the correct fit!
For this sweater you will need 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 7) skeins of Understory which will equal 1320 (1370, 1515, 1570, 1690, 1745) yards.
Our apologies that the pattern is not yet up on Ravelry! We have a had a small hiccup and it will be coming shortly!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello Cassy, thank you for all the info on this beautiful sweater. I want to double check that in your comment on the yardage needed, that this information is accurate?
“For this sweater you will need 6 (6, 7, 7, 7, 7) skeins of Understory which will equal 1320 (1370, 1515, 1570, 1690, 1745) yards.”
I have the 1570 yards and am about to begin.
There was something posted that the yardage was incorrect but I wasn’t sure where.
Thanks again!
Hi Tamara,
Thanks for the question! The yardage currently listed is correct and you should be all set to go! On the first day that the pattern was available, there was a different yardage that we then corrected. With 1570 yards you should be all set for the 51 1/2 inch size!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Yay! thank you so much for the help!!
Wow! This sweater is simply beautiful. I will be making it, thank you for the lovely pattern.
I have some baby alpaca (70%), silk yarn (30%) that I think would be beautiful to knit this sweater with but it’s more fine than the suggested yarn. Any suggestions as how to modify (if at all)? Thank you in advance.
Needles: 3.5mm (US 4)
Gauge: 10x10cm (4”x4”) = 23 sts x 30 rows
Hi Clare,
Thanks for writing in! The yarn that you are hoping to use is quite a bit thinner than the yarn that Julie used for this lovely cardigan. If you would like to use an alternate yarn, I would suggest looking for a yarn that knits up at 4.75 – 5.25 stitches per inch; roughly a DK weight!
Best,
Cassy
Beautiful sweater and I would love to make it. Not sure about how to determine the sizing. Who could be a resource? Looking at someone with a 48 in chest measurement. Thanks!
Hi Donna,
Thanks for writing in! This lovely sweater is sized to fit an actual chest circumference of 30–32 (34–36, 38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52) inches. So for a 48″ chest, I would suggest knitting the second to last size, the 55″. There is quite a bit of ease in this lovely sweater that gives it its cozy but still polished look!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I purchased the yarn and the pattern both of which I love I’m a slightly loose knitter and no matter what size needles I try I keep getting 20 sts to 4″. Any suggestions? I really want to make this.
Thank you.
Hi Jennyfer,
Thanks for writing in! If you are getting too many stitches per inch in your swatch, you will want to go up in needle size as it sounds like your gauge is a bit too tight. The other thing that you should be sure to do, is to block your swatch and measure it when it is fully dry as gauge can change upon blocking. Measure your swatch in a few places to make sure that you are getting accurate measurements. I know that swatching can sometimes feel like a bit of a hassle but in the end, you want to be sure that your fit is spot on!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’m in the “Shape Shoulder” part of the pattern (back). It says to repeat short rows 3 and 4 twenty times more. Does that mean repeat the set of two rows twenty times more for a total of 40 rows?
Hi Kathy,
Yes! That is exactly what that means. By the end of that section you will have knitted a total of 40 rows.
Happy knitting!
Carly
Bought the pattern the other day. Cast on tonight. Gauge is spot on a size 7 needle. My question is Did the designer add extra to the amount of yarn needed ? .( most designers add axp 10% more yardage)
. I am very close on yardage and can’t get anymore of this yarn.
Thank you very much for this beautiful design. I can’ t wait to wear this beauty?
Hi Debra,
Thanks for writing in! We certainly did calculate in a bit more yardage to account for personal gauge. If you have the yardage that we recommend you should certainly have plenty of yarn to make this lovely sweater in your size.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I have not knit for several years. Love this sweater. Can an “advanced” beginner handle? What is the primary stitch ? (I can probably get help with the trickier parts!)
Thanks,
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! I do think that an advanced beginner with a background in knitting could achieve this sweater. It is primarily a stockinette sweater worked from the bottom up. The tricky part is the modified 3 needle bind off at the top of the arms but we do have a handy tutorial for that part. The majority of the sweater is a pleasantly straightforward knit!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I have a question about the neck band–how do you recommend picking up stitches? The pattern says to do a slipped stitch selvedge, but that makes it confusing to me on how to pick up stitches, since I can only do it every 2 rows. thanks!
Hi Monica,
Thanks for reaching out! We have a great tutorial on how to pick up stitches! We include how to pick them up on different edges both in garter and in stockinette!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello!
I am making the 2nd size and I have a question about the Shape Dolman Sleeves section. As I read the increases, I should work the Sleeve Increase Row a total of 9 times, increasing 18 stitches. Given that I start with 106 stitches, I should therefore end up with 124, however the pattern reads 126. Am I reading the pattern correctly?
Thanks!
Hi Anna,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! You will be decreasing a total of 10 times for your size. You will work the increase row once and then continue on with the directions that begin with “Continue on in stockinette.” In other words, you work the increase row first and then work the 9 additional increase rows noted after the instruction for the increase row.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello, is Inc-R the same as RL1? And is Inc-L the same as LL1?
Thanks
Hi Quynh,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct! Inc-R and RL1 are the same, as are the corresponding left versions!
Best,
Cassy
Instead of the Backward Loop Method cast on in the middle of the garment, can I do a knitted cast on?
Hi!
Thanks for writing in! You could give the knitted cast on a try. The main thing that you want to be careful about is that the backwards loop cast on gives you a nearly invisible cast on as well as a fair amount of elasticity. The knitted cast on is a bit bulkier and has a lot less elasticity. That said, if you make sure to keep it on the looser side, you can certainly give it a go!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
One of my knitting goals is to make this sweater in 2018! I have seen and touched Understory and like the yarn, but if I want something more colorful, is there something else in the Purl yarn family that would work for this pattern?
I am looking at Flax Down or Cashmere Merino Bloom.
I’m also interested in some of the Woolfolk yarns…would any of them work with this pattern?
Hi Alexis,
Thanks for writing in! We are happy to offer alternatives! This sweater would be lovely in Cashmere Merino Bloom or Flax Down. WoolFolk Far should also be a good option. All thres are slightly different in gauge so I would be sure to knit a gauge swatch to make sure that you are getting a pleasing fabric and the correct gauge for this lovely sweater!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Quick question about the Shape Cuff Edges. It says to continue in stockinette stitch….are we slipping the first stitches here or not?
Thanks!
Betsy
Hi Betsy,
Thanks for writing in! For the whole of this pattern, you will maintain a 1 stitch slipped edge. This will include for the shape cuff edges section!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I have a question about the left front “establish main fabric+shape hem” section. After the instructions “complete short rows 2 and 3 five more times”, there are still some leftover stitches on my needle. Is that correct? And, for the next instructions (continue in stockinette stitch for 3 more rows), do I continue across the entire row (knitting the leftover stitches that weren’t knit during the short row portion)?
Thank you!
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct! When working short rows, you will only be working a portion of the stitches in a row, leaving extra stitches unworked. As you work the short rows, you will wrap and turn before the ends of the rows. Once you have completed the short rows, you will continue on working across the entirety of the next rows!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I have a question about the shoulder shape section for the short rows 3 and 4 it says work to 3 stitches before the previous wrap, wrp-t, does that mean to wrap and turn the 4th stitch from the wrapped stitch or do you count the wrapped stitch as one of those 3?
Thanks, lovely to knit so far!
Hi Alice,
Happy to help! In the short row section, you will knit to 3 stitches before the previous wrap and turn. The wrapped and turn stitch will be the 4th stitch. You will then wrap and turn the next stitch, leaving 2 stitches before the previous wrapped and turned stitch.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I LOVE this sweater! I have a ton of super wash wool already – do you think that would work for this project? I’ve been trying to find something to do with it for years! Thanks!
Hi Allison,
Thanks for writing in! So long as the yarn that you have knits up to the same gauge as our Understory and you like the fabric it creates, you should be all set. As with any yarn substitution, you should always knit a gauge swatch!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I have completed the pattern up to finishing “shape shoulders” , did the repeat 19 times more. Plus one row. Now I am baffled at Shape left shoulder + neckline.my needles are now in the he back center of my work, and I cannot understand the directions for short row 1. Where do I start to knit the 40 stitches? It states on the right side. Knit 40……..
Hi Anne,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! Once you have completed the short rows in the “Shape Shoulder section” you will not be at the end of your work but rather off to the side. Holding the work with the right side facing you (the knit side), your working yarn and needles should be towards the right of your work. You will being knitting the 40 stitches here. It may be helpful to use a removeable stitch marker to mark where you are working as after you knit these 40 stitches, you will slip them to be on hold. You will then be near the middle of your work, where you will bind off for the neck and then continue working towards the left where you will work the left shoulder stitches.
I hope that this clears things up for you!
Cassy
I have just finished this sweater and blocked and steamed. I love it. Understory is luxurious to the touch.
Thanks for your help.
Hi Cassy,
I have a question regarding the increases….
Are increases Lifted Increases or Make 1R, Make 1L…
Hi Laurie,
Great question! The right leaning increase is worked by lifting the right leg of the stitch below the first stitch on the left needle onto left needle and knit it, then slip the first stitch on left needle purlwise. The left leaning increase is worked by slipped the next stitch from left needle purlwise, then lift the left leg of the stitch below the slipped stitch onto left needle and knit it though the back loop.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
In the main fabric as you begin adding backwards loop CO do you cast on to the left needle and immediately knit into those stitches or onto the right needle and get them when you come back around?
Hello Kris,
This is a great question! When you are casting on at the beginning of the row you are using your working yarn to cast those stitches onto your left needle. This means that you will immediately knit them to go across your row.
I hope this is clear and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
The Shape Shoulder and Neckline section has me confused. Instructions say to K39 then slip these stitches to scrap yarn or stitch holder for Right Shoulder. Am I slipping just the K39 stitches or the entire Right Shoulder to the scrap yarn?
Hello E.C.,
Thank you for reaching out! You are slipping those 39 stitches that you just knit onto a holder or scrap yarn.
I hope this clears things up and happy knitting!
-Marilla
So this will still leave 19 short rows still “on needles” on the right side. Is the slipping 39 just to give some extra space between the right side and left side while working the left side after the bind off for neck?
Hello E.C,
Great question! In this section you are working your left shoulder and your right shoulder separately, so you are putting your right side stitches on hold when working the left shoulder, and then you left shoulder stitches on hold as you work your right shoulder stitches.
I hope this all makes sense let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi there, I’ve had to redo the top of the back of the sweater once before and I am afraid I may have to again 🙁 And I am still not sure if I am getting it right. I have the right number of stitches which is good (224). The first time, when I was doing short rows, I think I was not understanding the notion of “three stitches before the wrapped stitch” because the neckline center was way off. Is the stitch around which the wrap is placed counted as one of the three? The first time I didn’t, and so it was rally like 4 stitches with the fourth being wrapped. I redid it and this time, it was three stitches total before the wrap around the third stitch, But the neckline is still not totally centered, or at least it doesn’t look that way to me. I wish I lived in NYC to come by for help, but trying to figure this out on my own and hoping I don’t need to redo it a third time!
Hello Margaret,
Thank you for reaching out! I hope I can help- are you at the “ESTABLISH MAIN FABRIC + SHAPE HEM” section of the pattern? Which size are you knitting- at which point do you have a total of 224 stitches?
When the pattern says “three stitches before the wrapped stitch” it does not count the stitch that is wrapped because it is before that stitch, so three stitches and then the stitch that is wrapped.
I hope this is helpful and that you will not need to go back again! Let me know if you continue to have issues and we can continue to trouble shoot the issue.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
This is beautiful! Would the new Good Wool yarn work well for this project or would the gauge and the feel of the sweater be considerably different from the original?
Hi Eeva,
Thanks for writing in! I do think that you could use Good Wool for this lovely sweater! Good Wool is a bit thinner than Understory but they can knit up at the same gauge. This sweater is knit at a rather looser gauge and with plenty of easy. You can certainly knit a gauge swatch using Good Wool and if you like the fabric at the given gauge, go ahead with the sweater as written. If you like the fabric at a bit tighter than the given gauge, you could cast on a size or 2 larger depending on how much your chosen gauge varies from the given gauge!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi Purl Bee,
I’m sorry to ask this question, but I’m not sure about the short row shaping for the shoulders. When the pattern states knit to 3 stitches before previous wrap…does this mean there is the previous wrapped stitch plus 3 stitches in front of it? So after w&t there are 2 stitches between each wrapped stitch?
I tried it this way and it didn’t seem right when I got to the neck shaping?
Confused and maybe over thinking it?
Germaine
Hi Germaine,
Thanks for writing in! You have it! If you are knitting to 3 stitches before the wrapped stitch, there will be the wrapped stitch plus 3 stitches in front of it!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hi, this (Olson) pattern calls for a set of US 6 double pointed knitting needles — what is the best length?
thank you,
Victoria
Hi Victoria,
Great question! This is certainly up to you! I like either a 6 or 8 inch long DPN for the cuffs of this lovely sweater! Either length will work. I would not suggest going any smaller as it can mean that you would have to watch your stitches a bit more closely!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Dear Purl,
The yarn I’m thinking of using for the Olson sweater has a speckle in it. Do you think that will be distracting in the ribbing and look differently from the main body of the sweater?
thanks
Victoria
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for reaching out! I think that a speckled yarn could be beautiful here! Most of this lovely sweater is stockinette so the speckles would not interfere with the patterning! I would suggest knitting up a small gauge swatch in stockinette and if you like the look, you will be good to go!
Best,
Cassy
Hello. I have been working on this pattern in the “Establishing Main Fabric and Shape Hem”section and I learned how to do “short row 1 and short row 2” but then it says “Short row 3 and 4: work to 12 stitches before previous wrap, wrap-t”. Could you explain what “work” means? Am I continuing to purl to create the next stockenette row or is there another technique that I may not know happening here? Thank you for your help!
Hello Ashley,
Thank you for your question! When a pattern says to “work” It just means to work the stitch as established, so if you are continuing with stockinette you will purl on the wrong side and knit on the right side. It sounds like you are doing exactly what you are supposed to be doing!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi! I love this pattern, but I am hoping to make it as a summer cardigan for a warm climate. Do you have any suggestions for a similar weight yarn that is primarily linen?
Hi Kathryn,
Thanks for writing in! We have quite a few linen and linen blends in a light fingering weight, which, held double, should be approximately a DK weight. I think this would be lovely in doubled Habu Natural Linen or Linen Quill, or even our Cattail Silk! As always though, make sure you do a gauge swatch!
I hope that helps – best of luck with your summer knitting!
Julianna
Hello! I’m at the sleeve shaping part of the pattern (working on the back). Do you continue the slipped stitch on the first stitch of every row when you get to the Backward Loop cast ons at the beginning of the row? Or do you need to actually knit/purl the cast on stitches?
Hello Becky,
Thank you for this question! Thanks for writing in! For the whole of this pattern, you will maintain a 1 stitch slipped edge. This will include shape sleeve portion of the pattern with the backward loop cast on.
I hope this clears things up and let us know if you continue to have any issues!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there,
I am on the neckband and am picking up the slipped stitch selvage which is giving me a significantly lower number of stitches than I need. Do you recommend I go further into the 2nd column? I’m making the second size and was only able to pick up 88 sts vs the 121 on the front. Thank you for any help!
Hi Margaux,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct that you will need to pick up your stitches in the second column of stitches in order to have enough stitches for the ribbed neckband.
I hope that helps and happy knitting!
Julianna
I am having this same problem. How do I pick up stitches in the second column of stitches? Thank you for your help!
Hi Nora,
Thanks for reaching out! Essentially, to pick up from the second column you will start by picking up one stitch from the 1st column (as you would normally) and then the next stitch you will dip down a little further into the second column to pick up another, this will be kind of in between where you would normally pick up a stitch. And then you will repeat the process, 1 from the 1st column, 1 from the 2nd column and so on until you have the correct total! This will give you the opportunity to pick up more stitch to make sure you have enough!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am having the same problem and don’t know what it means to go not the second column of stitches. Is there a video that shows that?
Hi Candi!
Thank you for your question. The second column of stitches is the series of stitches behind the slip stitch selvedge, since the slipped stitch selvedge is only half the number of total edge stitches! Picking up stitches from the slipped stitch edge and the row right behind the slipped stitch edge will result in the number of stitches needed to be picked up for this step. I recommend alternating between picking up stitches from the slipped selvedge and the second column of stitches for an even, consistent look!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Ran into a big issue with the picking up of stitches for the neckband. Pattern doesn’t specify if we are to pick up 3 of every 4 or pick up 2 of every 3. I did 3 of 4 and had more than the 121 stitches the pattern called for. Redid at 2 of 3 and it was within one stitch of the pattern. This info should be in the instructions. Also, the beginning of the instructions for knitting the hem say to work until approximately 4 inches. Giving a specific number of rows would help in getting the correct number of stitches picked up for the neckband.
Hello E.C. ,
Thank you for reaching out and giving us your feedback! I hear you, I always find picking up this many stitches can be a bit of a guessing game. Because the stitches being picked up are not going to work out perfectly even, mathematically speaking, what I like to do is place a stitch marker in the middle of each section as an extra guide to get as even an amount as possible.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I have a question about the neckband section at the end of the project. I picked up 288 around the right front, back neckline, and left front. If I follow the instructions for the short rows, the band will be much wider at the left front. Are all three sections supposed to be picked up at once?
Hello Courtney,
Thank you for reaching out! All 288 stitches will be picked up at once. The short row portion of the patten is adding materiel to the neck so you get an elegant fold. The first row of your short rows will get you almost to the end of the neckband section with 156 stitches – Short Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1, [p2, k2] 37 (38, 40, 41, 42, 43)
times, p2, k1, wrp-t. Once you are there you will be working back and fourth to create extra fabric. Because of where this first row orients you the extra fabric will be at the center of the neck and expand front there.
I hope this clears things up for you and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting and congratulations on being almost don with your sweater!
-Marilla
Thank you-this makes sense now! I completely misread the pattern here! End of sweater fatigue!
Hi,
I just bought your pattern and ordered the yarn Bloom. I have reviewed the instructions (Lots of short rows ). I understand all of them except the short row instructions for the Neckband. I’m confused about these instructions.
Am I to repeat the instructions given for short rows 3-6 for rows (4-6) and the same for rows
7-24 , (8-24) ? HELP……
Hi Jonnie,
Thanks for reaching out! For this part of the pattern, you will work the instructions following each group of rows for each row in that group. In other words, when the pattern says:
Short Rows 3-6: Work in pattern to previous wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, work 7 more stitches in 2×2 rib pattern, wrp-t
This means you will be repeating that row or set of instructions – “Work in pattern to previous wrapped stitch, work wrapped stitch with its wrap, work 7 more stitches in 2×2 rib pattern, wrp-t” – for rows 3, 4, 5 and 6. Similarly, for rows 7-24, you will be repeating the row written out after “Short Rows 7-24” for each row.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
For the second time I am at the shape left shoulder section and am once again confused. If I knit 40 stitches, move them to a holder and bind off 18, I am at 3 stitches before the last wrap. Then, if I do the bind off for the neckline there will not be 88 stitches remaining for the left shoulder. Any idea where I am going wrong? Thanks.
Hi Cecilia,
Thanks for reaching out! This is definitely one of the trickier steps in Olson! Can you let me know which size you are making so I can try to explain it better?
Best,
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
Thanks for your reply. I got impatient and just reverse engineered the pattern which let me end up with the proper number of stitches. Now on to the front which I am about to cast on.
That said, it would be good to have your response to my original problem in case I make another sweater. I am making the 47 3/4″ size.
Hi Cecilia,
I charted out the shoulder shaping and it should work out fine. Before starting the shoulder shaping, you should have 224 stitches on the needle. After the last short row in the “Shape Shoulders” section, you should be about to purl and should have 63 stitches on your right hand needle (including the final wrapped stitch) and 161 stitches on your left hand needle. This should mean that after knitting the next 40 stitches, the 18 stitches you cast off are in the center of the back, and you will have 103 stitches left to complete the Left Shoulder Shaping. You should also have 43 stitches before your first wrapped stitch on this side.
Although I can’t say for sure what went wrong without seeing your work, is it possible that you did your short rows too far apart? If you had too many stitches between your wrap and turns, this would result in having fewer stitches left between the neck cast off and the first short row. When the short rows are done correctly, you should have clusters of 3 stitches (one wrapped, two unwrapped) separated by spaces on your needle. It can be difficult to see which stitch is the wrapped stitch, so if you are having trouble spotting them, you may wish to mark each wrapped stitch with a removable marker so you can easily see when you are three stitches before the wrapped stitch.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I recently bought this pattern and 6 skeins of the Understory to make the 44 1/2″ size. I would like to know how much yardage the designer allowed to swatch for gauge?
Hello Jaqueline,
Thank you fore reaching out! I would say as a very rough estimate that giving your about 50 yards would give you plenty of yarn for your swatch. I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am making size 51-1/2. I am shaping the left shoulder and I assume the 20 stitches I bind off for the neck should be in the center. The 20th stitch that I bound off is at the center back, not the 10th stitch. It would be helpful if I knew how many stitches should be in the row before the 40 are knit, transferred to a stitch holder and then the 20 bound off. Can you please help?
Hello Lorena,
Thank you for reaching out! From my calculations it looks like you are working with 103 stitches inside the short rows from the shape shoulders section with a total of 232 stitches. This means that you after you knit 40 stitches and cast off your 20 stitches you will have 43 stitches before your wrap and turn from your previous row, so you will knit 40 stitches.
I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi Purl Bee,
I am on the right front. In the section, Establish Main Fabric and Shape Hem, the short rows start on the wrong side with a purl row and then in row 3 after purling to the wrapped stitch, the directions say to knit up to the next wrap and turn. Should that be “purl”? The left front starts the short rows with a right side row. The right front adds a knit row after the ribbing, which is not on the left front and is the reason for the short rows starting on the wrong side. Thanks for your help.
Hi Meryl,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! I just took a look at the pattern and in the section that you are referring to, it reads….
Short Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1, p5 (4, 4, 5, 5, 7), wrp-t.
Short Row 2 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Short Row 3: Purl to previous wrapped stitch, purl wrapped stitch with its wrap, p4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7), wrp-t.
That is to say that short row 3 is a wrong side row and as such you will purl. After the wrap and turn, you will return to row 2 which will be a right side row that you will knit!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I need help. I am ready to start the short rows for the neckband. I am making a 44 1/2 and have 288 stitches. On row 1, I am supposed to work 1 then 4 times 38 and then 3 more before wrapping and turning. That is 156 stitches out of the 288. Another way to put it is that this is only 12 stitches more than half. The next row is to be 24 so that takes you back to center plus 12. Does that make sense to you?
Hi Elise,
Thanks for writing in! This makes total sense and it sounds like you have it correct!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi from the UK! I am not an experienced knitter but have been following your pattern step by step very carefully using tutorials where I get stuck. I have just finished the section “shape left shoulder + neckline” in the smallest size. From right to left (right side) I have: 38 stitches in blocks of 2 from short rows, 39 stitches on scrap yarn, 16 bound off stitches, 100 knit stitches. It says I should have 82 stitches for the left shoulders. Any idea where I might have gone wrong?! If I need to unpick I don’t know where to go back to. Thanks so much
Hello Camilla,
Thank you for reaching out and good for you on knitting this lovely garment, it is no easy feat and you are doing great. I hope I can help! Just to clarify you have 100 stitches where you should have 82? It sounds like what happened is that you did not bind off your stitches as you were doing your short rows 3 -13. For example for short Row 3 you Bind off 5 stitches and THEN begin your short rows “knit to 3 stitches before previous wrap, wrp-t.”
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Marilla
Thanks for taking the time to look at this. I did do the binding off in short rows 1-15 so unfortunately I must have gone wrong somewhere else. If you have any other ideas please let me know. Otherwise I am going to unpick a fair bit. Thanks again. Camilla
Hi! I want to modify this pattern to fit a child age 10. Suggestions on sizing?? Thanks so much! Best, Patrice
Hi Patrice,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, we do not have childrens’ sizes available for this pattern; however, depending on the child’s size, you may be able to make the smallest size, which will fit a chest that measures 30 to 32 inches, and shorten the body and sleeves of the cardigan.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Can I add buttons
Hi Anna,
Thanks for reaching out! We don’t include instructions for buttons or buttonholes in the pattern, but if you wish, you could certainly incorporate buttonholes into the ribbed front border and add some buttons on the other side!
Best,
Julianna
Debra asked about sizes for this pattern. You did not answer that part of her question. How do we know what the sizes are if you don’t print them. I would like to purchase the pattern, what are the sizes. Thank you
Hi Alicia,
Thanks for writing in! We do include the sizes above! The sizes for this sweater at 40¾ (44½, 47¾, 51½, 55, 58¾). These sizes are to fit actual chest circumference of 30–32 (34–36, 38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52) inches! For all of our garments, we base the sizing on actual chest measurements as standard Small, Medium, Large, etc and number sizing are not standardized but rather differ from brand to brand. For ourpatterns, you will want to measure the fullest part of your chest and use this number to help decide the size you would like to make. For example, if you cheat measures 39 inches around at the largest, you will select the size 47 3/4 to get the expected fit! We have more detailed information about the sizes of different parts of the pattern listed above under the “Sizes” heading.
I do hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello from Paris (France)
Can I add 10, 15 or 20 cm in length without changing the style of the jacket to get a short coat.
Thanks
Régine
Hi Régine,
Thank you for writing in! I love your idea- you can certainly add additional length to this cardigan for more of a coat style if you feel comfortable doing so! The additional length could be added to either the Hem Ribbing (this is the easiest option) or to the Main Fabric just before the short rows. Should you choose to add it to the Main Fabric, I recommend following the below modifications:
ESTABLISH MAIN FABRIC + SHAPE HEM
Switch to larger circular needles.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for 10 cm (or 15 or 20 cm, whichever you prefer).
Once you have added your desired length you can proceed to Short Row 1 and follow the rest of the pattern as written! Keep in mind that you will have to add the additional length in the same fashion for the Left Front and Right Front, and that you will need to pick up additional stitches for the Neckband later on. You may also want to purchase an extra skein of yarn as a precaution against running out of yardage.
I hope this helps!
Gaby
I’m working on the shape left shoulder + neckline and have read the previous comments on this section which have been very helpful. For the 40 3/4″ size: K39 and transfer these plus bind off 16 (for me this would be 8 stitches on each side of center back) , there is another knit to 3 stitches before previous w&t and then it says “short row 2 and all following wrong side short rows: purl to end of row”. Does that mean purl to the first w&t stitch ( I think there will be 40 left) or all the way to the end of row, including wraps? Do any wrapped stitches get worked on the wrong side or are they all worked in short row 15, knit to end of row including wraps? It might be clear if I keep going but I’m not certain at this point.
Hi Colette,
Thanks for reaching out, and I hope I can clarify this part of the pattern for you! Once you have the center back stitches bound off, your wrong side rows will end at the bound off stitches, so you won’t have to purl back over the wrap & turns that you previously worked on the right shoulder. I’m sure once you have your stitches bound off and get started on this section it will make perfect sense!
Best,
Julianna
Hi!
What is the best bind off for neckline? Is basic bind off stretchy enough?
Hi Anya,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, we used a regular bind off for the neck of this sweater!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I have just started, got my gauge,completed my rib for 4 inches and short rows. The rib is responding to the 2×2 rib and smaller needle and is pulling in more than it looks in the photo. Will the blocking eliminate this or do I need to do something differently?
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for writing in about this! It could be a gauge issue. I’d suggest doing a small swatch in the ribbing on the smaller needles and blocking it out to see how it reacts. Most people knit more loosely in ribbing than in stockinette, which is why it’s usual for patterns to have ribbing done on a smaller needle size. However, gauge is such a personal thing, isn’t it? I think a small ribbing swatch and a test-blocking would be the way to go here, and would be your best bet for knowing for sure if it will block out the way it should. I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
I noticed that the model for this pattern is wearing the sleeve cuff turned back, and it still hits below the wrist bone. I would like to wear it without turning the cuff back, yet have the cuff hit in the same place as it is on the model. The cuffs are knitted 3″ in length, which means I would have to shorten the sleeves 1.5″.
The pattern says that the finished length “from cuff” to “underarm” is 14″.
Question: Where is “underarm”? Is it at some point inside the dolman space? If there is an imaginary intersection drawn straight up from the side seam before it bends with another straight line drawn back from the sleeve before it bends into the body, is this the underarm? If so, would that intersection be 14″ from where the cuff is attached to the sleeve or 14″ from the bind off edge for the cuff?
Thank you for your help.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! It would be easiest if you knit the cuff 1.5 inches and kept the sleeve as is. If you want to shorten the sleeve you would need to eliminate some of the cuff increases on the back and front pieces, while still maintaining the number of rows to achieve the overall desired circumference. It could take a few tries to get it perfect, and could be a little tricky to make the two halves match exactly. The underarm on this piece should be where it naturally folds, in the dolman space and the 14″ would be from the bottom of the cuff. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting
Jessica
I have the most recent download of this pattern (from May 2020) but I think I discovered some errata.
On page 6 in the “Shape Sleeve, Neckline…” section for the Right front it says:
“Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Right Sleeve Increase Row every 6th (6th, 8th, 8th, 10th, 10th) row once…”
However, when I previously knit the Left front that same section said:
“Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Left Sleeve Increase Row every 6th (6th, 8th, 8th) (10th, 10th, 14th, 14th) row once…”
I am knitting the largest size. To match, it seems you’d want to do that increase after 14 rows on the Left and Right fronts, but, it is not listed. It stops after “10th” row.
Is this an error?
Hi and thank you so much for bringing this to our attention! I apologize that we did indeed leave off the last two sizes in the instructions for the right front shaping. Just as you suggest, this line should read:
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Right Sleeve Increase Row every 6th (6th, 8th, 8th) (10th, 10th, 14th, 14th) row once, then every 4th row 5 (5, 5, 5) (6, 6, 6, 6) more times, then every right-side row 3 (3, 3, 3) (2, 2, 2, 2) more times.
We have now updated our pattern, and you can download a new version either from our website or Ravelry. Thank you again for letting us know – we really appreciate it!
Best,
Julianna
Thanks for the fast reply!
One more question while I’m at it…
For the Left Front, when doing the section “Shape Cuff Edge” the instructions say:
“ALSO AT THE SAME TIME, beginning on next right-side row after last Sleeve cast-on, shape Cuff Edge as follows…”
The last Sleeve cast on for the Left Front is also on a RIGHT-SIDE row so this would mean doing one row before starting the Cuff Edge shaping.
But for the Right Front section the “Shape Cuff Edge” the instructions ALSO say:
“ALSO AT THE SAME TIME, beginning on next right-side row after last Sleeve cast-on, shape Cuff Edge as follows…”
The last Sleeve cast on for the Right Front is on a WRONG-SIDE row so if I started on the next right-side row that would mean no row in between. It’s only one row, but, I’m wondering if that is intentional b/c it seems like the two sides wouldn’t line up.
I’m so glad we were able to help with the previous instructions! You are correct that there will be a one-row difference in the shaping between the right and left fronts. In order to cast on at the cuff edge the cast on stitches have to be at the beginning of the right side rows for the left front and at the beginning of the wrong side rows for the right front, but to make sure your increases and decreases match (and to make them a bit easier!), all other shaping will be done on right side rows only. The slight difference shouldn’t be noticeable in the finished sweater!
Best,
Julianna
Hi! I am on the Back – Shape Cuff Edges section, and I am confused about the stitch count listed after all the increases are completed. I am making the 62 1/2″ size. After the Dolman Sleeves section, I have 246 stitches, and after the cuff increases it says I should have 256. But it looks like I am only supposed to repeat the cuff increase row (1) and (1) times after the initial increase row, which I think should give me 246 + 6 = 252 stitches? Maybe I am reading this wrong?
“Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Cuff Increase Row every 8th (8th, 8th, 8th) (8th, 8th, 10th,
10th) row 2 (2, 3, 3) (4, 4, 1, 1) more time(s), then every 6th (6th, 6th, 6th) (6th, 6th, 8th, 8th) row
2 (2, 3, 3) (4, 4, 1, 1) time(s). [208 (216, 224, 232) (240, 248, 256, 264) stitches]”
Thanks for your help!
Hi Ann,
Thank you so much for getting in touch and for spotting this error in the pattern! Unfortunately I don’t have a solution for you yet, but we have sent this over to our tech editor to get sorted out and will let you know as soon as we have a correction. We hope you can understand and we will get back to you soon so you can get back to knitting!
All the best,
Julianna
Hi Ann,
Thank you so much for your patience! The corrected pattern should read:
Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Cuff Increase Row every 8th (8th, 8th, 8th) (8th, 8th, 10th,
10th) row 2 (2, 3, 3) (4, 4, 1, 1) more time(s), then every 6th (6th, 6th, 6th) (6th, 6th, 8th, 8th) row
2 (2, 1, 1) (0, 0, 3, 3) time(s). [208 (216, 224, 232) (240, 248, 256, 264) stitches]
Our pattern has now been updated, and you can download a new version from Ravelry or your purlsoho.com account. I hope that clears everything up, and thank you again for catching this!
All the best,
Julianna
Hi
Today (06 August 2020) I`ve bought the pattern for the Olson Cardigan from Julie Hoover at Ravelry.
Ravelry refers to error corrections on your homepage,
but I can’t find….
Please, Where can I find all the corrections for this manual.
Thank you very much for your help:)
Best regards
Beatrix
Hi Beatrix,
Thanks for reaching out! Since you just purchased the pattern, all corrections and updates will be included in the PDF, but you can also access our Errata Page if you would like more information on just what has been updated!
All the best,
Julianna
Is there a reason that I cannot access the comments for this pattern?
Hi Cathi,
Thanks for bringing this to our attention! We recently did a massive upgrade on our website, and we are still working out some of the kinks. Missing comments is one of them! Don’t worry, we still have all the comments, and our tech team is working on getting them back on the website.
In the meantime, is there anything I can help you with?
Best,
Oscar
No, thank you. I like to go back and read all the comments before I begin a new section of the pattern. The comments are showing now and I’m good to go!
I am working on this pattern and have noticed that the increases RLI and LLI on page 3 for the back are now labeled RRI and LLI on pages 5 and 6 for the right and left front pieces. Are they the same? If not, what is the difference?
Hi Cathi,
Thank you so much for catching this typo! We do mean for you to use an RLI throughout the pattern – I don’t think there is such a thing as an RRI in knitting! We’re working on updating the PDF, but in the meantime, you can safely work an RLI wherever you see an RRI!
All the best,
Julianna
I am having trouble using the mattress stitch under the arms because the stitches are not aligned, what is the proper way to do it ?
Hi Sophie,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the underarm seam is sewn from two cast-on edges instead of the vertical sides of the knitted pieces, you will have to use a slightly modified method which is shown in our Seaming Stockinette Stitch Horizontally tutorial. This should make it much easier to get everything put together!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I gauge out to the correct 18 st in 4 inches, but am only getting 24 rows instead of 27 on #7 needle. Did a swatch on a #6 and got the same result. I’m well into the back on the #7. So far, so good for this late-stage beginner. But is my nagging assumption correct that 24 rows instead of 27 will simly yield a slightly (by about 10%) longer sweater (realizing it may change with blocking)? Thoughts? Not eager to redo the progress to date if I’m wrong.
Hi Robert,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, 24 rows instead of 27 will just result in a slightly longer sweater, which may change after blocking. If you are okay with that result I would say there is no reason to redo what you have already done!
Please feel free to reach out with any more questions you may have going forward!
Gianna
One more question. I’m knitting this for my wife. But does Purl have any patterns for men’s sweaters on its site? If so, I haven’t found them.
Hi Robert,
Thanks for writing in! We don’t currently have any Purl Soho men’s sweater patterns. We do have a few that are unisex like the Sweatshirt Sweater. We also carry Brooklyn Tweed patterns and they have some great patterns for men!
Best,
Gianna
And finally (for now), in Shape Dolman Sleeves, instructions say “use Backward Loop method to cast on 2 stitches at beginning of the next 12 rows . . .” Am I casting onto the LEFT needle and then slipping the first of the 2 cast ons to maintain the selvage edge? Slipping the first pre-existing stitch and then doing the 2 cast ons onto the left needle and knitting them? Or?
Hi Robert,
Thanks for writing in again! Yes, you are casting onto the left needle and then continuing the stitch pattern each row!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
How am I supposed to interpret this: “Continue in stockinette stitch, repeating the Sleeve Increase
Row every 6th (6th, 8th, 8th, 10th, 10th) row once”
If it is once, why the “every”? Thanks.
Hi Tessa,
Thanks for reaching out! I could see how that would be confusing! Yes it means to repeat the increase row on the 6th (6th, 8th, 8th, 10th, 10th) row once. Thanks for pointing that out and I will be sure to pass that along to the team!
All the best,
Gianna
Instructions for Left Shoulder and Neckline say to knit and place 39 stitches for the right shoulder on a stitch holder. After binding off 16 stitches for the neckline, there are 143 stitches remaining for the Left shoulder! I must have something wrong.
Right Shoulder instructions are looking for 82 stitches when all I have is 39 stitches on the stitch holder.
Please help.
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you may be okay! After working rows 2-9 with the short rows and bind offs you should be left with 82 stitches!
All the best,
Gianna
I am still uncertain about the wrp-t for shaping shoulders. For the smallest size, 40 and 3/4, should there be 57 stitches on each needle after wrapping 19 times (rows 3 and 4 repeated 17 times after first 4 rows).
Also, just to check, the Purlsoho tutorial (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3BrIMIdO-c)
demonstrates picking up the wrapped stitches on the next row. This is not being done at this point for the back, correct? It appears to be described in hem and elsewhere. Thanks a lot.
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for reaching out! That sounds correct, and yes you won’t be picking up and working the wraps unless it tells you to in the pattern.
All the best,
Gianna
Hello! This is my first time encountering short rows / the wrap+turn method (the tutorial video was very helpful!). I’m on the step for establishing main fabric and shaping the hem, and the one thing I’m not clear on is whether there is a regular row in between each of the short rows, or if all of the short rows are together (I’m not sure if my question makes sense…)
The instructions say to do short rows 1-6, then next row (wrong side), then next row (right side). Is this correct, or should the sequence be as follows:
Short row 1, next row (wrong side)
Short row 2, next row (right side)
Short row 3, next row (wrong side)
Etc.
Thanks in advance!
HI Madalyn,
Thanks for reaching out! For the ESTABLISH MAIN FABRIC + SHAPE HEM section you should be working the rows as written:
Short Row 1 (right side): Slip 1, k5 (4, 4, 5) (5, 7, 6, 8), wrp-t.
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Short Row 3: Knit to previous wrapped stitch, knit wrapped stitch with its wrap, k4 (5, 6, 6) (7, 7, 8, 8),
wrp-t.
Repeat Short Rows 2 and 3 five more times, then Short Row 2 once more.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Got the back done and moving onto the front! Gauge seems to be spot-on; sleeves are short but, fingers crossed, will be ok with addition of cuffs and the way the garment drapes when complete.
QUESTION RE LEFT FRONT. In “Establish Main Fabric + Shape Hem, for odd rows after row 1 it doesn’t say anything about slipping the 1st stitch, so I haven’t been. Should I?
Hi Robert,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that this pattern is going so well for you! You may also be able to get a bit more length from the sleeves when you block the finished garment! Unless it specifies to slip the stitch at the beginning of the row than there is no need to slip the first stitch!
Happy Knitting!
Gianna
I am making the left front piece for the smallest size (40 1/4). It appears after the first four short rows that 0 more rows are added for the 40 1/4 size while they are repeated 21 more times for the next size, 44 1/2. Is this correct? Thank you
Hi Michael,
Thanks for reaching out! That is correct! Once you finish the first four rows you move directly on to the next step instead of repeating the section!
All the best,
Gianna
Oh my goodness. Finished and proud. Then I block it and see that the left neckband is alot wider than the left side. The right side . These were short rows so what have I done wrong?
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! You can send our team some photos of your work to [email protected] and they can troubleshoot further from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi- I am working on the left front, establish main fabric and shape hem. On short row 3 it says to “knit to previous wrapped stitch…” no mention of slipping first stitch. Is that correct?, not to slip first stitch. Same with Right Front.
Thanks!!!
Hi Alix,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct, you will knit to the previous wrapped stitch without slipping the first stitch!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
I’ve been reading through the comments. The last two lines of this section, it actually does say “maintaining slipped stitch on first stitch of every row…”
So in mine I have been slipping the stitch. Hope I’m reading this correctly.
Hi Ginette,
You are correct! We’ve spent some time double-checking this pattern for the slip stitch directions specifically, and the consensus is to do as you have been and slip the first stitch anytime you’re at the beginning of a row that is on the selvedge edge! I hope this helps clear things up!
Warmly,
Kelsey
I’m confused about shaping the sleeve, cuff, neckline and shoulder at the same time. After the part of “shape sleeve” it says that when piece measures 8 3/4 inches, shape neckline as follows and then goes on to say keep shaping shoulder and then start shaping cuffs. I have no idea where I would be on the fabric since no yarn goes off needles, no new yarn is cast on at a particular point, They don’ s say at a certain point in the existing fabric, this is where you shape neckline, so how to I work the shoulders, neckline, cuffs, etc. when I don’t know where in the pattern they start.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! The construction of this cardigan is a little unique since it is knit from the bottom up and it is a raglan sleeve. This means the body and sleeve are one piece! So for the back once you work the body, by establishing the main fabric and shaping the hem you will move directly to the SHAPE DOLMAN SLEEVES section since it is connected directly to the body, you are not cutting the yarn at any point but you are continuing to knit working back and forth across the entire back section the whole time!
I hope this clears things up and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am making the sweater in smallest size (40¾). When finishing the neckband, I am only able to pick up around 88 stitches on the left and right hems which is quite a bit fewer than the 118 listed in the pattern. The size and shape look right and I pick up exactly 44 in the back neckline. How do you recommend that I adjust my short rows? Thank you!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out! Rather than trying to adjust the short rows, I would actually recommend going back and trying to pick up the 118 stitches along the left and right hems. With just 88 stitches along each side, not only will you run into trouble when working the short rows, but with only 88 stitches along the hems, your finished neckline will not lay properly when you’re done.
When I’m working on a pattern like this and have to pick up a large number of stitches, I find it’s helpful to divide the length of fabric into sections with removable markers. That way, I have an easier time keeping track of how many stitches I need to pick up in any given section. I’d suggest dividing up the left and right hems into 4 sections; you’ll need to pick up about 29-30 stitches in each section to get to 118. This might help you make sure that you’re picking up enough stitches by the time you hit the back neckline!
I hope this helps, but please feel free to email us at [email protected] if you need additional assistance!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi,
I love this cardigan, but have a love-hate relationship with it at the minute! I’m have completed the Left Shoulder + Neckline section (p4) and about to start the Right Shoulder + Neckline section and I am obviously not reading the pattern correctly.
Line 2 (Left Shoulder + Neckline) bind off 16… stitches, means that this bind off is on the far side of the garment??
Once finished this section I then transfer all of the Left shoulder stitches (82….) onto a stitch holder?
When I commence the Right Shoulder & Neckline I transfer the 39… stitches back onto the needles?
It is completely lopsided? I would normally visit my Wool Shop for advice but we are still in lockdown here in Melbourne Aus.
: (
Can you talk me through this?
Many thanks
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest sending the information above along with clear photos of your work to our customer service team at [email protected] and they can help verify if you have bound off in the correct area and walk you through the stitch breakdown!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi!
I am preparing to knit this sweater having purchased the pattern several years ago. I have checked out Ravelry, errata, and the newer comments here. I swatched and am getting gauge but I also switched for the ribbing with the larger sized needles. I worry that the ribbing will pull in if I go down a size. Is that how it should be? Or should I just use the same needles throughout? I’m a super duper loose knitter so I’m getting gauge on ones. I hate tensioning the yarn and pulling so Small needles are my jam. I tried prym plastic ones but they are too grippy… so Im using chiagoo red cords… Thanks!
Hi Christa,
Thanks for reaching out. I would stick to the needles you’re getting gauge in stockinette with, since the ribbing in this pattern should have the same gauge as well (when stretched)! Because ribbing always has the tendency to pull in, I would recommend aggressively blocking your sweater after finishing it. This is likely the only way you’ll get the perfectly flat effect of the ribbing shown in our sample! But don’t be alarmed when the ribbing starts to pull in as your knitting–it will even out once you block it. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Can the German short row method be used instead of the wrap and turn?
Thank you.
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely modify this pattern to use German short rows instead! However, you’ll actually need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “Knit to last 8 (8, 8, 10) (10, 10, 12, 12) stitches, wrp-t,” you’ll actually need to “Knit to last 7 (7, 7, 9) (9, 9, 11, 11) stitches, make double stitch.” Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I have just purchased this pattern. Since I am 5’9″ I would like to make it longer. I am thinking of adding stitches just after the bottom ribbing where it says ” continue for 13 rows” before the part where I increase for sleeves. So say instead of 13 rows, I’d knit 20 rows for an additional inch of length. This seems to make the most sense. Is this what you’d recommend?
Hi Barb,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, that’s exactly how I would make this type of a modification! Just remember that you’ll need to add the same distance on the Left and Right Front pieces as well. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
For a longer sweater, (I am 5’9″) would the best place to add length be between the bottom ribbing and the beginning of arm increases? After the 13 rows?
Hi Barb,
Thanks for checking back in about this! I replied to your comment yesterday, but here’s what I wrote, for reference:
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, that’s exactly how I would make this type of a modification! Just remember that you’ll need to add the same distance on the Left and Right Front pieces as well. Hope this helps!
Let me know if you see this comment!
All the best,
Lili
yes, sorry, I was looking for it at the top of the comments, then started looking by dates! Found it. thank you!
Reading previous comments I believe I have made a mistake-on shape shoulders I have stopped 2 stitches ahead of the previous wrap and turn . So I probably need to take that out?
And the directions:” repeat short rows 3 and 4 18 times “ does that mean 18 for row 3 and 18 for row 4 or 18 combined?
It looks like the pattern actually reads “Work to 3 stitches before previous wrap, wrp-t” in this section, so you should stop 3 stitches before the wrap, not 2. If this looks like what you’ve already been doing, then you don’t need to undo anything!
In answer to your second question, that means to repeat both Short Rows 3 and 4 18 times. So you’ll be doing a total of 36 more short rows!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’ve started this sweater several times because I wasn’t getting the length specified at the end of Shape Dolman Sleeve. Issues in the earlier versions were my gauge. The gauge is correct but my length is 2″ shorter (13.5 instead of 15.5). Is there a place in the pattern that I can knit more rows to make sure the sweater will fit? I’m concerned, at this rate, the shoulder shaping will not be in the correct place. Thank you.
Hi Nancy,
I’m sorry to hear that you’re still running into this issue! Have you made sure to measure the length from the center of the back? This is essential because there’s exactly 2 inches of extra fabric in the center back than there is at the sides, since you worked short rows to shape the back hem earlier on. Since your measurement is coming up short by 2 inches as well, my suspicion is that you’re taking it from one of the sides and not the very center, but please let me know if this isn’t the case!
All the best,
Lili
Lili,
I measured in the center of the back and can squeeze out 14″. The sides measure 13″.
Thank you.
Lili,
I counted my rows in the middle of the garment and I have 65 rows. If my calculations are correct, I should have 75 rows (I’m making the 47 3/4 size). Oops. Not sure where those 10 rows went. AARGH. If you have any ideas, let me know.
Thanks.
Very interesting! I think I do know where those rows have gone missing! For size 47 3/4, you should have 78 rows between the beginning of ESTABLISH MAIN FABRIC + SHAPE HEM and the end of SHAPE DOLMAN SLEEVES, so you’re actually 13 rows short. That number matches up exactly with the instruction: Continue in stockinette stitch for 13 more rows, maintaining slipped stitch on first stitch of every row and ending with a wrong-side row, which occurs at the end of the ESTABLISH MAIN FABRIC + SHAPE HEM section. I have a strong feeling that you just missed knitting these 13 rows!
All the best,
Lili
I am ready to pick up and rib the front of the sweater . I am picking up every stitch along the two front sides and I am only getting 260,I have 48 across the back . I don’t understand this because I added 2 inches in length. I don’t see how I can squeeze anymore stitches on. Suggestions on how I proceed and do the short rows?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! Since each stitch along the edge is a slipped stitch, it actually extends over 2 rows, making it taller than a normal stitch. Because of that, you will sometimes need to pick up two stitches in each one of these stitches in order to fit all 300 Neckband stitches along this edge. I hope this helps, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
It looks like I will need to drop to a 4 or even 3 needle to achieve the gauge. Is this possible or common?
Hi Andrea,
Yes, it’s actually quite common to need to drastically change needle sizes to achieve the gauge of a pattern! Every knitter has a different natural tension, and it can really vary more than you might expect. As long as your gauge is correct, then it won’t matter what size needle you’re knitting on!
All the best,
Lili
It appears I may need to drop down to a 2 or 3 needle in order to achieve the gauge. Is this common?
Hi Andrea,
It looks like I replied to this question yesterday! Have you been able to take a look at the previous comments yet? My reply should appear directly above this latest comment.
All the best,
Lili
Hi
I bought a PDF of this pattern a few years ago and am doing it now. CAn you please explain page 4, under LEFT SHOULDER AND NECKLINE why after slipping XX stitches on to a holder, we are to BIND OFF the next XX stitches and then carry on with the row. I cannot understand the reasoning behind this, and don’t see where an equivalent number of bound off stitches would be found on the other side.
Please explain. Thanks!
Best,
Sarah
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! The stitches that you knit at the beginning of this row and then slip onto scrap yarn are the Right Shoulder stitches. Then, the stitches you bind off are the Neckline stitches, which are only in the center of the back. The remaining stitches are the Left Shoulder stitches, which you will continue knitting in this section. Once you’re ready to move onto the Right Shoulder + Neckline section, you will put the on-hold stitches back onto your needles and knit the Right Shoulder.
Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello again! I’m at the LEFT SHOULDER + NECKLINE. I’m making the 47 3/4. I have 264 stitches on my needles. Per the instruction, the last row I knit from the previous section was the Short Row 3. I purled to the two stitches (German Short Row method) before the wrap and turn, turned and wrapped (265 stitches). If I knit in the direction my needles are facing, my neckline will not be in the center but on the left sleeve. Please break down how to do this part. Was I supposed to purl to the end of the row? Thank you. Nancy
Hi Nancy,
I’m a bit concerned about your stitch count actually! At this point in the pattern, size 47 3/4 should only have 224 stitches in total. This stitch count is reached at the end of the SHAPE CUFF EDGES section, and it remains constant until Short Row 1 of LEFT SHOULDER + NECKLINE. Can you double check your stitch count and get back to me? If it’s indeed 264, would you be able to send a photo of your work so far to [email protected]? That way we could take a look and try to identify where the extra stitches came from!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I mistakenly counted both feet of the stitches that make the short row. I have 264 stitches! Now, on to how to do the LEFT SHOULDER + NECKLINE. I did it once but can’t remember how I knitted it.
Thanks for your help!
Nancy
Hi Nancy,
I just realized that we are also communicating about this pattern over email! Would you mind if we kept this conversation to that method of communication? I think it’ll be easier to keep track of our messages that way!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I am attempting to work the left shoulder and neckline shaping but am very confused. It says to work a short row three, ending with a wrong side row. I did a wrap and turn, then knit 40 and bound off 20. I’m just feeling very turned around and am not sure I’m doing this correctly. I really wish the pattern told me how the row would be set up after following all instructions (x number knit on the left, x number bound off, x number on scrap yarn, x number knit). I don’t know what my question is exactly other than is there any place to get clarity on this portion? I’m trying to look at ravelry but haven’t found additional information.
Thanks!
Hi Janie,
Thank you for writing in. We are so sorry you are running into issues while knitting this pattern! If you don’t mind, could you send in a photo of your work to our team at [email protected] so we could have a deeper look? We want to make sure you are able to get through your project and seeing a photo could help us better visualize where the issue might be. We will keep an eye out for your reply.
Warmly,
Gavriella
Hello, I’m at the point of the short rows creating the ribbed collar band, I have my stitches marked for the left and right fronts and the back neck. However, the short rows directions have me stumped. I’m trying to diagram the directions, mapping out what happens and don’t see the bigger picture unfolding. Afraid I’ll build up the collar edge only on one side of the sweater (if that makes sense). Could there be a schematic showing how the collar is built using the short rows and their direction?
Hi Diane,
Thank you for writing in! I’m afraid we don’t have a diagram for the short rows in this pattern. I recommend beginning by placing a lifeline in your stitches before beginning your short rows. This will avoid having to pick up those stitches in case things don’t go as planned. Next I would suggest using removable stitch markers to mark the ends of your short rows at the wrap and turns. This will help you identify how much fabric you are adding in and help you get a better understanding of how the stitches are working up. Finally, I say go for it! As long as you are following the stitch counts in each row, remembering to turn each time, you will be on the right track.
All the best,
Gavriella