Clean + Simple Baby Dress
Few things prompt knitters into action more than the arrival of a new baby. The opportunity to express our love and excitement with something that we’ve made by hand is just too tempting!
Equally tempting is our newest yarn, our soft and supple Cotton Pure. One hundred percent cotton in an impressive array of 43 inspiring colors, I knew that it was time to think babies!
Using the homespun, woven look of Linen Stitch to craft the bodice, I designed our Clean + Simple Baby Dress with ease and comfort in mind. Constructed from the top down, this Dress knits up with little fuss, including a long stretch of satisfying stockinette for the skirt. It also opens in the back with three of Purl Soho’s delicate mother-of-pearl buttons, the perfect finishing touch!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Soft, cozy, and a breeze to launder, our Clean + Simple Baby dress is truly just that! -Kristy
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Kristina McGowan. Click here to see even more of Kristina’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoCleanAndSimpleBabyDress, and #PurlSohoCottonPure. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 (2, 2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Cotton Pure, 100% organic cotton yarn. Each skein of this sport weight yarn is 279 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 279 (400, 445) yards required. We used the color Freshwater Pearl.
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 24-inch circular needles
- US 5, spare circular needles, any length
- 2 different-color stitch markers
- Three 3/8-inch buttons. We used 4 Hole Ecru Small Mother of Pearl buttons
Note: For our size 0-6 month sample, we used almost all of 1 skein, so if you want to be sure you have enough, consider ordering an extra skein. If you don’t end up needing it, you can return unwound yarn for a refund within 30 days of purchase, or within 6 months, for store credit. Our Return Policy has all the details!
Gauge
24 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
28 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in Linen Stitch
Sizes
0-6 (6-12, 12-18) months
- Finished Chest Circumference: 18 (20 ¼, 22 ½) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 8 ½ (11, 12) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Shoulder: 13 (15 ¾, 17) inches
SAMPLE: Size 0-6 months is pictured here.
Notes
Linen Stitch Flat
Worked over an odd number of stitches…
Row 1 (right side): *K1, slip 1 (purlwise) with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): P1, *p1, slip 1 (purlwise) with yarn in back (wyib), repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern.
Linen Stitch in the Round
Worked over an odd number of stitches…
Round 1: *K1, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Round 2: *Slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1 wyif.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for pattern.
K1fbf (Knit one front, back, and front): Knit into the front of the stitch, but do not take the stitch off the left needle; knit into the back of the same stitch, still without taking the stitch off the left needle; then knit into the front of the same stitch and take it off the left needle. [2 stitches increased]
Pattern
Front
Right Front Shoulder
Cast 11 (11, 13) stitches onto 24-inch circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Do not join to work in the round. Work 8 rows in Linen Stitch Flat (see Notes), ending with a wrong side row.
Right Front Neck
Increase Row (right side): *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1fbf (see Notes). [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat.
Next Row (right side): Work in Linen Stitch Flat to end, turn the work so the wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 25 stitches. [40 (42, 44) stitches]
Cut yarn.
Left Front Shoulder
With wrong side still facing you and Right Front Shoulder stitches on left needle, cast 11 (11, 13) stitches onto right side of same needles.
Slide Right Front Shoulder stitches off left needles and onto the cable. Turn work.
Note: As you work the Left Shoulder, the Right Shoulder stitches will cohabitate on the cable of the circular needles. Just ignore those stitches for now!
Work 8 rows in Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a wrong side row.
Left Front Neck
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning with a wrong side row, work 4 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a right side row.
Do not cut yarn.
Front Yoke
Row 1 (wrong side): Work in Linen Stitch Flat across all stitches, thus joining the Left and Right Shoulders. [55 (59, 63) stitches]
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3¾ (3½, 3½) inches from shoulder cast-on edges, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Armholes
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, sl 1 wyif, k1fbf. [4 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 3) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [63 (71, 79) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat.
Cut yarn and place stitches on a piece of scrap yarn.
Back Right
Back Right Shoulder
With 24-inch circular needles and right side of Front Right Shoulder facing you, pick up and knit 11 (11, 13) stitches from cast-on edge.
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 7 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Back Right Neck
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Next Row (right side): Cable cast on 16 stitches, and then starting with the new stitches, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. [31 (33, 35) stitches]
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3¾ (3½, 3½) inches from beginning of Back Right Shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.
Back Right Armhole
Increase Row (right side): *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1fbf. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 3) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [35 (39, 43) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Cut yarn and place stitches on spare needle.
Back Left
Back Left Shoulder
With 24-inch circular needles and right side of Front Left Shoulder facing you, pick up and knit 11 (11, 13) stitches from cast-on edge.
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 7 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Back Left Neck and Back Left Armhole
Increase Row (right side): *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1fbf. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Next Row (right side): Work Linen Stitch Flat to end, turn so wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 16 stitches. [31 (33, 35) stitches].
Beginning with a wrong side row, work even in Linen Stitch Flat for 4 (2, 4) rows, ending with a right side row.
**Buttonhole Row 1 (wrong side): P4, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, p1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, *p1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. [2 stitches bound off]
Buttonhole Row 2 (right side): Work in pattern to buttonhole gap (2 stitches remain in row), turn so wrong side of work is facing you, cable cast on 2 stitches, turn so right side is facing you, slip 1 wyif, k1. [2 stitches cast on]
Beginning with a wrong side row, work 8 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a right side row.
Repeat from ** once more, then work Buttonhole Rows 1 and 2 again (three total buttonholes made). AT THE SAME TIME, when armhole measures 3¾ (3½, 3½) inches from beginning of Back Left Shoulder, shape Back Left Armhole as follows:
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 3) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [35 (39, 43) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Join Left and Right Backs
Next Row (right side): Knit to last 7 stitches of Left Back. With right side facing you, hold spare needle with 35 (39, 43) Right Back stitches behind last 7 stitches of Left Back. [K 1 stitch from Left Back together with 1 stitch from Right Back] 7 times, knit to end of Right Back stitches. [63 (71, 79) stitches]
Slip on-hold 63 (71, 79) Front stitches from waste yarn to spare needle.
Place marker for beginning of round, and with the Front’s right side facing you, join to Back by continuing with yarn attached to Back and knitting across 63 (71, 79) Front stitches, place marker for side, knit to end.
Skirt
Increase Round: [K1, m1r, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1l, k1, slip marker] 2 times. [4 stitches increased]
Next Round: Knit.
Repeat the last 2 rounds three more times, removing side marker on the last round. [142 (158, 174) stitches: 71 (79, 87) stitches for each Front and Back]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting every round, until piece measures 8 (10½, 11½) inches from Front and Backs join
Next Round: K2tog, knit to end. [141 (157, 173) stitches]
Work Linen Stitch in the Round (see Notes) for ½ inch.
Bind off all stitches.
Finish
Armhole Edgings
With right side of armhole facing and beginning at center of underarm, pick up 2 stitches using working yarn, *pass the second stitch on right needle over the first stitch, pick up 1 more stitch, repeat from * until you return to the center of underarm.
Repeat for other armhole.
Back and Neck Edging
With right side of Left Back facing you and beginning where Left and Right Backs were joined, work Back and Neck Edging as for Armhole Edging, working first up Left Back edge, then around Neck opening, and then down Right Back edge, ending where Backs were joined.
Last Touches
Sew on a button opposite each buttonhole. Weave in ends and block as desired.
Learn About Cotton Pure + All Our Beautiful Yarns
As special as it is popular, our Cotton Pure brings true natural beauty to this project. 100% organically grown cotton, this sport-weight yarn feels exceptionally soft and supple in your hands, and it comes in tons of gently heathered colors you won’t find anywhere else! Making something big, like a blanket or sweater? Shop our 1,000-gram Cotton Pure On A Cone collection, too!
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ADORABLE! Love the homespun look and super simple design/pattern!
Ahhh this is perfect! Just yesterday a close friend requested something knit for her new boss’s soon to arrive twin baby girls. Now to pick a color! I love love love your color choice, but think I’ll go with something “pinker” from what I know of the recipient. Can’t wait to try this yarn and the pattern looks simple but fun. Thanks!
So sweet! Thank you.
OH MY SWEET LORD! This little dress is DARLING… a snap to knit, and I know exactly the little girls to knit them for.
Love the Linen Stitch details. Hmmm… I want one, too!
Thank you for this sweet pattern and perfect timing on its arrival. Time to purchase yarn, lots of it!
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Any suggestions on how this could be enlarged to fit a size 2 Toddler? I love it, but my little granddaughter is 22 mos.! Thanks!
Hi Val, Maggie, Maria, Marge, Christine & Janine,
We regrettably don’t have this pattern available in sizes other than those we list here, but your interest for more sizes is very helpful to us in planning items going forward, and we greatly appreciate your writing in!
Kristy
I, too, love this sweater and yarn! I would do it in a heartbeat if I could do a size toddler 3/4.
I would also like to knit this dress in sizes 2-4! Sounds like a fun pattern.
Hi Pam,
Unfortunately we do not offer sizes 2-4 for this pattern, but we do appreciate the request and will keep it in mind for future projects like this. Thank you!
-Adam
I would like to make the Clean and Simple baby dress in a preemie size for our nicu unit. Can you advise on alternate sizing and adjustments. Thank you ! Love the yarn!
Love the little dress and colors of the yarn. My question concerns whether the yarn quickly fades or not. Have used other yarns which have faded and looked used very quickly. Follow your site regularly. Thanks for reading my question.
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for writing! We haven’t noticed any issues of the Cotton Pure colors fading very quickly. Projects can be laundered in a washing machine and we recommend washing with cold water and drying on the low cycle — nothing too hot. I hope this that helps and we welcome any further questions you may have!
Kristy
could I do this for my 3 yo grand by adding two stitches up to 19 for her age and transpose the same for the rest?
Maria
please see above regarding how to make it for a 3 yo.
thank you,
Maria
Can you give direction to size this for a preemie? I love the yarn and pattern, just perfect!
Such a sweet patter! Could you please clarify if the slipped stitch is knit- or purlwise? Thank you!
Hi Melissa,
The stitches can be slipped purlwise! Thanks for writing in and we’ll be adding a note to pattern!
Kristy
I can never leave well enough alone. Does it really need to be buttoned? Can it be slipped over the head, if you knit the back and front the same? Trying to simplify!
Hi Barbara,
The buttons are usually a good idea to make sure that the dress will fit over the baby’s head. Without them, the opening many not be big enough! I hope this helps — thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Any chance of purl soho drafting a pattern for young girls also. I’m sure they too would love this simple, classy dress.
A lovely simple dress pattern. Perfect for a gift. Thank you for making it available.
Cette petite robe comme les autres modèles de crochet ou de tricot sont magnifiques, mais je ne comprends pas du tout les explications en anglais.
Quelle frustration !
Any chance of getting this pattern in a 2T or 3T size?
Hello. The two stitch increase at the yoke – this seems to leave a very lumpy bobble! Is this correct??
Hi Ciara,
The increases used to shape the Front and Back are noticeable but they shouldn’t be in the bobble realm. If you scroll down in the pattern, the first image under “Right Front Neck,” provides of useful image of how they should work up if that helps! The increases are not as subtle in Linen Stitch as they can be with other stitch patterns but things should become much smoother after you work the edgings. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions! Good luck!
Kristy
Thank you! Almost there now…
This is a beautiful little dress. Like the others I would love a larger pattern, but this one will do just fine at the moment.
I started writing this to ask for instructions on the cable cast on; then I checked your website and found a very good description. Perhaps this should be added to the pattern for those of us who maybe don’t know this method.
Sarah
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in and for your helpful suggestion. We’ve now added a link to our cable cast on tutorial in the pattern. Best of luck with the dress and thanks again!
Kristy
Sooooo cute! Like others, larger sizes, please. Maybe a top for us ladies?
Hi there
Lovely pattern!
I’m knitting the linen stitch front yoke and notice it says to knit 3 3/4″ (for size 0-6m) but then knit only 3 1/2″ for the other two larger sizes. Is this correct?
Thanks for your help!
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing! That’s correct! For the Front Yoke, you’ll work even in Linen Stitch Flat until the piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from cast-on edges. Please let us know if you have any further questions along the way!
Kristy
Hello!
Which cast on edge do you measure from? The top of the shoulders or the front neck cable cast on edge?? Thank you!!
Hi Catie,
You’ll measure from the top of the shoulders (and not the front neck cable cast-on edge). I hope this helps clarify! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
Thank you for your speedy reply, Kristy!!
Gladly, Catie! Best of luck with the dress!
I recommend adding a clarifying note on where to measure from! I knitted the front and half the back. When I got to the button holes I realized I measured from the lower neck cable cast-on edge and had to tear out the other pieces 🙁 I should have read through the comments before starting the project! Love the project and the yarn.
Hello Michelle,
Thank you for your helpful feedback! I’m so happy to hear how much you love the project and yarn, but sorry to hear you had to rip back – always frustrating! I will pass along your suggestion.
Happy Knitting!
-Marilla
By “cast-on edges” do you mean the original cast-on for the shoulders or the cable cast-on?
Thank you!
Hi Katie,
Thanks for writing in! Please measure from the original cast ons at the shoulders. Thanks!
-Adam
I’ve completed the entire front and back yoke of this little dress, but the buttonholes have proved to be my nemesis They don’t lie flat, the stitches surrounding the buttonhole increase row are lumpy, and the entire back left yoke is about 1/8 longer than the back right. Any suggestions for flat buttonholes in this linen stitch?
Also, in your photo of completed front, the area below yoke is much deeper than actually occurs. In my knitting, it measures 2 1/4 inches at the front yoke increase. So if you ask for 3 1/2 inches to armhole shaping, the area below the yoke is only 1 1/4 inches. In your photo, it looks to be about 4 inches.
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing and very sorry to hear that the buttonholes for the dress have been giving you trouble! Although I didn’t experience the lumpiness you describe, it may be an issue easily fixed in blocking. When the piece is finished and you’re able to block it (either by lightly steaming it or getting it completely wet and laying it flat to dry), often your stitches will smooth out considerably. Linen Stitch itself can have a more homespun, rougher look, but blocking should definitely help to smooth things out!
The length of completed yoke should be 4 1/2 (4 3/4, 5) inches for sizes 0-6 (6-12, 12-18) months — best illustrated in our schematic if that helps. The sample we made is 0-6 months, so the complete length of the yoke for the sample is 4 1/2 inches. I hope this helps clarify and please do let know if you have any further questions — we’re here to help!
Thanks,
Kristy
Using the pictures as my guide, I went 3 and 1/2 inches from the cable cast on, rather than the left and right side cast ons. But this was not clear in the written directions.
Love, love, love this sweet pattern!
Ugh … I just did the same and have to rip out . NOT clear at all in the directions. Sorry I have to wade through many comments to find this out!
Hi Martha,
We’re so sorry to hear that you had to rip out a portion of your knitting! We took another look over the pattern instructions and agree that they could be more clear at this spot. We’ve gone ahead and updated them to directly specify that you’ll need to measure from the shoulder cast-on edges. Thank you again for bringing this to our attention, and please don’t hesitate to reach out to us in the future if you have any other questions, or if you’d like help with any of our patterns. We’re always happy to provide assistance!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!!
adorable! just what I needed and when I need it ! Thanks for being an angel 😉
bonjour
Pourrait- on avoir les explications en français ?
merci
Hi Dore,
Thanks for writing in! Sadly, we do not have the ability to help in a language other than English.
Best,
Cassy
In need of some clarification on the front yolk part of the pattern… I saw in the comments that you’re supposed to measure from the shoulder cast on, but in your photo it looks like the armhole increases start 3 3/4″ from the center cable cast on… (I have two little ones under 2 and any minute I get to spend knitting is a real gift, would hate to have to frog this!)
For some clarification, I’m making the 6-12 months size, am already on the second round of armhole increases and there is only 1.5″ of knitted linen stitch pattern underneath my cable cast on… So different then in the photo.
Hi Francesca,
Thanks for writing! For the 6-12 month size, you’ll measure 3 1/2” from the shoulder cast on (and not from the neck cast on). The underarm increases then take 12 rows or 1 1/4” to complete, making the total length of the armhole (for the 6-12 month size) 4 3/4”. Have you been able to match the pattern’s row gauge? Please let us know if this helps clarify, and if not we’ll find another way to figure out what might be going on!
Best,
Kristy
I’m ready to do the edging for the armholes and neck and was wanting to clarify … I pick up but don’t knit those edge stitches before passing the first over the second stitch? And what do I do with the final stitch?
Hi Lou Ann,
That’s absolutely right, you’ll work the edging by picking up 2 stitches, and then passing the second stitch on right needle over the first stitch, then picking up 1 more stitch and repeating the process to the end. You’ll then cut the yarn and simply pull the end through the final stitch to finish. I hope this helps clarify! Please let us know if you have any further questions and thanks for writing with this one!
Kristy
I’m sorry to be so confused … I can pick up the stitches and pass them over without attaching any new yarn since I don’t need to knit the picked up stitches so … which yarn do I cut at the end to pull through the final stitch?
Hi Lou Ann,
In working the edging, when you get to the final stitch, you will cut the yarn that you have been using to pick up the stitches, and will pull the end of that yarn through the final stitch. Please let us know if this helps clarify! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
There is no yarn being used to pick up stitches, so how will there be a yarn to cut? So confused, Jessica
Hi there,
Thanks for your question. When picking up stitches you are using yarn to knit into a selvedge or a top edge, etc. Please click here for a tutorial. Let me know if you are still confused and I’d be glad to clear anything up!
-Adam
Thank you. I was also quite confused the tutorial helped!!
I am finding the skirt instructions baffling. Some thoughts:
1. You might add to the instructions to make sure not to twist the knitting when joining the front and backs. It’s easy to inadvertently twist them, if you don’t know to look out for that.
2. The complete joining in the round is never stated. so to be clear: under SKIRT, where you ask for Increase round (K1, m1r etc) are we simultaneously joining in the round?
3. The increase round (singular) instructs two increases (m1r and m1l) then says 4 stitches increased. Is this two rows? Then you write Next Round: Knit. Then your write repeat the last 2 rounds three more times. Two rounds or Three rounds? It’s unclear.
Thanks for your help.
Hi Janet,
Thanks for taking the time to write and for your comments. The instructions for joining in the round can be found just above the “Skirt” heading in the pattern. You’ll place a marker for the beginning of the round, and with the Front’s right side facing you, will join your work to the Back by continuing with the yarn attached to the Back and knitting across the Front stitches. You’ll then place another marker for the side and will knit to the end.
For the following increase round under the “Skirt” heading, you’ll repeat the instructions provided in the brackets twice. Sometimes it’s easy to read and think that it’s only once, but it will be twice. So it’s [K1, m1r, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1l, k1, slip marker] 2 times, which will be 4 stitches increased.
I hope this helps clarify! We’re here to help, so please let us know if you have any further questions and best of luck with the dress!
Kristy
Sorry-I’m so stuck on the Skirt section. The very first instruction under “Increase round:” is my trouble. So I know I have to do this twice however how can you do it twice in one round? If I m1r at the first market then I m1l at the next, then I have only done half the round. At that point do I knit to the next marker and then start all over again? Isn’t that two rounds? I’m a bit lost-thanks for some clarity in this!
Hi Mercedes,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can clarify. You can complete the repeat twice in one round. I think that it helps to write out the whole row. I am bolding the 2 markers to help make them more evident.
You will k1, m1r, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1l, k1, slip marker and then k1, m1r, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1l, k1, slip marker (this marker is the beginning of the row marker).
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Thanks so much! Totally makes more sense now!
When we do our gauge swatch, should we block it to the dimension specified? Or is the recommended gauge for unblocked knitting?
Hi Jill,
Although we did not notice a difference between the dress’s pre and post blocked measurements (i.e. our gauge didn’t change), you could definitely block your swatch and work from those measurements just to be sure. Good luck with the dress and please let us know if you have any further questions along the way!
Kristy
I need clarification on the following instruction:
“Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from cast-on edges, ending with a wrong side row.”
Do I measure beginning with the initial cast-on’s or does my measurement begin with the cable cast-on?
Hi Bonnye! Thanks for writing in – your measurements should be taken from the initial cast on. Great question!
Thank you!
Keith
I’m expecting a baby in October and I’d like to make this in time for her three-month celebration in January, when it will be very cold. If you had to choose a wool yarn, which would you choose that would be most like the Cotton Pure, keeping in mind that it is for a small infant?
Thank you!
Su
Hi Su,
Congratulations! How very exciting! Our Cotton Pure is roughly sport weight yarn. Mulberry Merino would make an excellent substitution and it is quite a bit warmer than cotton. If a washable wool is what you are after, Anzula Cricket would also make a great substitution. Just be sure to check the yardages that you will need as all three of these yarns have slightly different amounts per skein.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi, I love this dress and am starting to finish the armhole edges. When I get around to the end how will I fasten the last stitch ? Please help.
Thank you, Jessica
Hi Jessica,
I’m glad you love the dress! Like any bind off you will cut the yarn and then pull it through the last loop. This end will get woven in and won’t be visible from the outside. I hope this helps!
-Adam
I also have a question about binding off. I did add a final round of knit stitches as suggested. Now do I bind off knit-wise or purl-wise? Thanks for your advice.
Hi Angela,
Thanks for writing in! The hem is bound off knitwise!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Lovely pattern! Quick question. I am on the Back Left:
Repeat from ** once more, then work Buttonhole Rows 1 and 2 again (three total buttonholes made). AT THE SAME TIME, when armhole measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from beginning of Back Left Shoulder, shape Back Left Armhole as follows…
My confusion is here:
When it says to repeat from ** once more, then work Buttonhole Rows 1 and 2…
the ** is at the beginning of the Buttonhole row, so am I just supposed to repeat the two Buttonhole rows or am I supposed to do a row before that? and if so, which row?
Sorry for the confusion! The other question I have is, I was reading the directions much too fast when working this up and I did not pick up and knit so as to combine the shoulder seams together so right now all my pieces are seperate. Do you have any recommendations for which stitch to use to sew them together (ie mattress stitch, back stitch?) or does it not really matter?
Thank you for your help!!
Katie
Hi Katie,
Thanks for your questions! Please note that you complete 8 rows of linen stitch in between the buttonhole rows. So, this would mean that you do the buttonhole rows, then 8 rows of linen stitch and then repeat the process, ending on your 8th row of linen stitch. Next you’ll do the two buttonhole rows again, making your third buttonhole. This is all happening while you are increasing for your armhole.
In terms of closing up your shoulder seams, I would do a mattress stitch for this area. Mattress stitch is my go-to for all seaming. It’s very clean!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Thanks so much for your help!
My question is when starting the right front neck do I begin with the increase row or is it just there to show us what the increase row is? It seems to throw off the right and wrong side of the fabric. Thanks!!
Hi Caryn,
Thanks for writing in! After knitting the 8 rows Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a wrong side row, you will start on the right front neck with the increase row as a right side row. This should make an even right and wrong side.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Thanks so much for such a quick and helpful response!
Hi! Congratulations on your pattern, it´s lovely. But please i need some help!! I´m having trouble with joining right before the Skirt part. It should be joined by both sides? I don`t have very clear if after placing the second marker I should purl or knit because the yarn is in the purl side, so i dont know hoy to join the second part. Please help!
Hi Antonella,
Thanks for the kind words! The last 7 stitches of the left back will be joined to the first 7 stitches of the right back by knitting together the left back and right back stitches. This creates the placket. When joining the front, it doesn’t matter where your yarn is because you are just sliding the on hold stitches on to your working circular needle. Just make sure that when joining the front you are knitting the right side as it faces you. I hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Adam
Hi Adam,
To follow-up on that question, do we just knit stitches or knit in pattern when joining?
Thanks!
Shu
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing us! You will just knit for the skirt portion upon joining in the round. The skirt is in stockinette, so no need to do the linen stitch.
All the best,
Adam
Hello,
I’m kind of confused with how to proceed with making the buttonholes identified in the pattern.
First row is purl 4 stitches, then pass second stitch on right needle over first.
Are we picking second stitch on the left needle over the right as if to bind off, then purl that same stitch? Thank you!
**Buttonhole Row 1 (wrong side): P4, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, p1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, *p1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. [2 stitches bound off]
Buttonhole Row 2 (right side): Work in pattern to buttonhole gap (2 stitches remain in row), turn so wrong side of work is facing you, cable cast on 2 stitches, turn so right side is facing you, slip 1 wyif, k1. [2 stitches cast on]
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! Hopefully I can clear this up for you. You are binding off on the wrong side as a normal bind off. You will pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first, p1 and then pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first. All of this takes place on the right-hand needle. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Adam
Thank you for the lovely pattern! I have just completed the linen stitch in the round and the dress is seriously curling at the bottom. Is this normal? Did you have to press it?
Hello, Holly!
Thank you for writing in! Have you blocked the dress? Blocking the dress will help relax much of the curling you are experiencing. Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I agree with Janet (August 13, 2016) the skirt instructions are indeed baffling.
I understand how to join left back to the right back.
After knitting to the end of the right back I placed a marker and then knitted the 79 stitches from the front and placed second marker.
What do you mean by “knit to end” ?
Where is the end?
Do you mean knit across the back again to the first marker?
Also in the Increase Round after knitting to 1 stitch before marker do you make one right (m1r) and then immediately make one left (m1l) therefore 2 stitches increased before knitting to next marker?
Do hope you can understand this and help!
Thank you.
Hi Elizabeth,
Hopefully I can clear this up for you! After replacing the 79 front stitches on to a spare needle, you’ll be joining in the round by knitting these stitches. From here on out you are knitting in the round. Your beginning of round marker is placed right before your front stitches and when it says knit to end, you’ll be knitting to this marker. As for the increases, there are four stitches increased per round (two on the front section, two on the back). The increases happen on either side of the markers so the skirt can flare out in a bell shape. I hope this helps! Feel free to write back if you still have questions!
-Adam
Could you please give the increase row in detail e.g. are you starting the increase row at the side of the dress?
Then is it K1, m1r, then m1l and then knit to the second marker?
Are there two increases together?
Please help me.
Thanks
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing us. The increase round goes as follows: k1, m1R, k to 1 stitch before marker, m1L, k1, sm, k1, m1R, k to 1 stitch before marker, m1L. You’ll be at the beginning of the round after completing all of this. The increases happen on either side of the markers with one stitch in between the increases. Thanks!
-Adam
Many thanks, Adam.
Am up to the final bind off of stitches. Do I bind off with knit stitches?
Thank you.
Hi Elizabeth,
The pattern states to continue in linen stitch and then bind off, but it’s my opinion that linen stitch looks better when you do a round of knit before the bind off. This leaves a very nice even looking bind off edge. Best of luck!
-Adam
This is really good advice that I think should be added to the pattern. I knitted this dress last year and read this comment and my dress had a lovely neat edge. This time round I didn’t read through the comments so missed this advice (and had sadly forgotten) so my lovely dress has a ‘loopy’ bind off from the linen stitch in the round. I couldn’t figure out why until I re-read this advice. PLEASE edit pattern to add this as it made such a difference.
Hello,
Thank you for writing and sharing your experience! I will certainly pass along your insightful suggestion and Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Do you know how one could divide up the necessary yarn for skirt vs top? I have two colors I would like to use.
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for writing us. I can’t give you an exact answer but I would guess that the top portion takes a little less than half because linen stitch takes up more yarn than stockinette.
-Adam
Hello! I absolutely love this pattern. I am relatively new to knitting. I started about 6 months ago, but have done quite a bit. Is this pattern something that an advanced beginner or newly intermediate would be able to handle? I have a friend who is due in may and I would love to make this for her!
Hi Karley,
Thanks for the question. It’s hard to say without knowing exactly what you’ve done in the past. This pattern is relatively simple if you are comfortable with increasing and minor seaming. The most difficult part of this pattern is joining the right and left back pieces to form the placket. I’d read through the pattern and see if you can understand most of what’s going on before starting. I always support trying a pattern with techniques you don’t know. It’s the only way you’ll learn. I hope you’ll give it a shot!
-Adam
On the right front neck do I do an increase row then 4 rows of linen stitch then another increase row? Or three rows of linen stitch and then an increase row? Also when it says slip one is this knitwise? or purlwise?
Hi Karley,
Thanks for writing us! You’ll want to work three rows of linen stitch and then on the fourth row you do the increase. When doing linen stitch all slipped stitches are slipped purlwise. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Love the little dress! I’ve just finished and am about to finish the edges. Are you picking up two existing stitches and passing the first over the second without additional yarn, or are you picking up stitches by knitting into existing stitches and then passing the first stitch over the second. Seems like a silly question but asking first may save me a rip. Thanks!
Hi Maja,
Thanks for writing in! Congratulations on almost finishing this lovely dress! For the edging, you will be using new yarn to pick up the stitches along the edges but you will not be knitting those new stitches.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
When starting the left front shoulder I’m struggling with which needle to cast onto so that the right sides line up when I join them later. Any tips on sorting this out?
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for writing in to us. You can cast on to the right hand needle right after your cable cast on. It might be helpful to add a removable marker to the right side of each shoulder so you know you are on track. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Hello,
Can you help to clarify the button holes and explain the process for me… I am going to Purl 4 first? This doesn’t make sense when you have 4 stitches on the right needles after purling…
**Buttonhole Row 1 (wrong side): P4, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, p1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, *p1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. [2 stitches bound off]
Buttonhole Row 2 (right side): Work in pattern to buttonhole gap (2 stitches remain in row), turn so wrong side of work is facing you, cable cast on 2 stitches, turn so right side is facing you, slip 1 wyif, k1. [2 stitches cast on]
Thanks for your help.
Dana
Hi Dana,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help clarify and I see where the confusion may be. You will purl the first 4 stitches of the row. Then you will pass the 3rd stitch that you knit over the 4th stitch that you knit. The directions are written as if you are looking at the last stitch that you knit as the first stitch on your needle as it is the first stitch available to you to work with.
I hope that this helps clarify things!
Cassy
Hello,
For the button row 2, it says to work in pattern to buttonhole gap with 2 stitches remain. What pattern are you referring to? You mean linen stitch flat row 1 ( right side)? Thanks in advance!
Tina
Hi Tina,
Great question! You are correct, you will be working Linen Stitch Flat Row 1 for this row. Whenever you a knitting pattern indicates to “work in pattern,” it means to continue working the same stitch pattern you would normally while performing another action – in this case, working a buttonhole!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
At the right front neck I have to cable cast on 25 stitches [40(42.44)] so for size 12 to 18 months increase 44 stitches ? Now I have 2 times 19 stitches for the shoulders and 44 makes 82 stitches! Thats not an odd number, can you explane please.
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! When you finish the right front neck for the 12-18 month size, you will have 44 stitches on the needle. You will then move onto the left front neck and end up with 19 stitches for that piece. When you join them, you will be knitting across the 44 stitches from the right front and the 19 stitches from the left front for a total of 63 stitches all together.
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
Adorable dress! I just finished knitting it up but am having a lot of trouble with the edging details. The linen stitch is pretty tight, I’m not sure which stitches I’m supposed to be picking up? I can’t tell from the image. I’ve tried several times but I just can’t get enough slack to cross a stitch over. Also, what happens when you get back to the center to keep the whole edging from unraveling? Am I supposed to be tying something off? Thanks,
Hi Jane,
Thanks for writing us! I’m glad you like the dress. Please refer to our tutorial on picking up stitches to make sure you are doing it correctly. Since you are picking up and binding off for this pattern you should be able to control however much slack you need to bind off. Hope this helps!
Adam
Hi,
Love this pattern. Quick question though. When I am knitting the front yoke, do I measure from 3 3/4″ from the neck edge or shoulder edges. The pattern doesn’t specify accept to say measure from cast on edges and I have 3 cast on edges.
Thanks for the help!
Hello Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m happy you are enjoying this pattern! The “cast on edges” is in reference to the cast on shoulder edges. I hope this helps. Let us know if you have anymore questions.
Warmly,
Marilla
I knitted this dress in cotton in the largest size. Although it was very easy to knit and looked lovely on a coat hanger – exactly as the Purl Soho picture, it looked a bit strange on the child I knitted it for. The increases from under the arms where the bodice finishes aren’t gradual enough. If I knitted it again – which I won’t as the cotton makes a rather heavy summer garment, certainly for a New Zealand summer – I’d change the shaping.
Hi Fiona,
Thank you for writing us, your feedback is so valuable. I will be sure to pass this information along!
warmly,
Marilla
I have tried to start this pattern a dozen times and have issues each time. I cast on 11 stitches and knit 8 rows linen stitch, but my increase and cable cast on ends up on the opposite side than is shown in the first picture. Help!
Hello Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! For the right front shoulder as long as your increases and cable cast on are at the end of your right side row you are correct.
Please let me know if you have any more questions!
-Marilla
I’m starting the back right shoulder, and I’m having trouble identifying the stitches from the cast on edge to pick up. What should I be looking for? I watched your tutorial, but the videos didn’t seem applicable for this type of stitch.
Hi Aimee,
Thanks for writing us. You’ll want to insert your needle into the stitch below the cast on ridge. In the picture in the pattern this is the first row below the cast on that has “knit V’s” and “purl bumps”. I hope this helps!
Adam
Is there a difference between the total number of rows for the back right shoulder and the left back shoulders. I count 42 rows for the right one and 48 rows for the left one.
Hello Marie,
Thanks for reaching out! Are you including the rows in the “Back Left/Right Neck and Back Left/Right Armhole” sections in your row count? Both the “Back Left Shoulder” and the “Back Right Shoulder” have 7 rows in Linen Stitch. Your left side and right side should measure the same so that the buttons line up correctly. I hope this is helpful and please let me know if you have any further questions.
Warmly,
Marilla
Is the finishing basically just a crocheted edge done with knitting needles? Any reason to not just do a half crochet instead?
Hello Shayna,
For the finishing edge on the dress, if you wanted to substitute it for a crochet edge you could do a a crochet slip stitch and you would get a similar effect.
Have a great weekend,
Melissa
Thanks!
Hi Shayna,
I am glad I could help.
Melissa
Your Notes for Linen Stitch Flat say: Worked over an odd number of stitches…
shouldn’t that be an EVEN number of stitches?
Hi Carol,
The linen stitch is worked on an odd number of stitches. When you first cast on for the right front shoulder, you cast on 11 or 13 stitches depending on the size. Thus alternating between a Purl and a knit stitch when you turn your work.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
I now have a gorgeous brand new grand daughter and would love to make this dress that I saved months and months ago. Is this dress loose enough to fit over a long sleeved t-shirt so it works like a jumper/dress? Love your patterns, so unique and very classic.
Hello Denise,
Thank you for your kind words and congratulations on the new addition to your family! This dress will be adorable as a jumper. If you are worried about it being to tight I would go up a size. This way there will be room to grow if its a little big.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Help!
I knit the fronts and backs and when I went to join them, found that the two back pieces are about 1/2″ different in length, but the side pieces line up with the sides of the front in terms of length. I’m sure this is a tension issue but how do I fix this? Do I have to start over? At the moment, I am making the shorter back bodice longer and hopefully blocking will tease out issues at the side.
Hello Emily,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m sorry to say that this sounds like a tension issue. Are all the measurements lining up, except for the larger back piece? I think that if you just re-knit the back piece that is to long things will line up better. I hope this is helpful. Please let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi there,
I’m knitting the skirt on this very sweet pattern (thank you for making such great patterns free) and I’m not sure where to measure from with this instruction:
“Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting every round, until piece measures 8 (10 ½, 11 ½) inches from Front and Backs join”
Do I measure from the shoulder seam or from the top of the skirt?
Thanks, Nicole
Hello Nicole,
Thank you for writing us! I’m so happy to hear how much you like this patten. For this section you will be measuring from the top of the skirt. At the top of the pattern there is a really helpful diagram that gives you all of the measurements for each part of the dress. I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Thanks Marilla,
I actually remembered it was there last night and worked out what I needed to do. A bit of a brain fade from me ? .
Thanks again, Nicole
I’ve worked then first two sections but now it’s time to join then and they don’t line up. I feel like there’s a step skipped that I’m not getting. Is there a video?
Hi Christina,
what section are you on? Are you joining for in the round? Or working the cable cast on for the yoke?
Thank you,
Melissa
Hi! I’m working on the front right shoulder and the left front shoulder. They don’t look the same at all. I was wondering if the left side is supposed to be 4 rows longer than the right side.
Hello Matlin,
Thank you for writing us! The Left and Right shoulders should be the same length. In what way do your two sides differ? Did you change anything when knitting either side? I hope I can help!
Warmly,
Marilla
HI There! I’ve read all the comments but still curious where the directions are for the buttonholes while making the front yoke etc… I honestly don’t have them in my printed version of the pattern. I’m a tad confused on this? can you tell me where to find it? sorry about this…
oh crud, I see it now…its on the back side? I think its just as cute or cuter in the front… my mistake..oops!
Hi There!
I’ve just finished this sweet little dress, and in the process of doing the finishing, but I’m a little confused about what happens once you’ve completed slipping the stitches for the finishing and you return to the point where you started. I still have a final stitch that has had a stitch slipped over it – how do I secure this last stitch so the slipped stitches don’t unravel?
Thank you for this beautiful pattern!
Hi Lena,
To secure the last stitch, you are going to take that stitch that has the slipped stitch over it, and pull it through this will secure it and keep it from unraveling.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Hi-
Is is possible
To clarify this direction?
Hi Jillian,
Thanks for writing in! When finishing the armholes, you will be picking up 2 stitches and then passing the first stitch over the second. Then you will pick up another stitch and pass the first stitch over the second, etc. At the end, you will have one stitch left on the needle. You will cut your yarn and take the end and pull it through that loop. You will then weave that end in.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I’m still confused as there is no working yarn to cut at the end of the armhole finishing. Where does the working yarn come from?
Hi Krista,
Thanks for writing in! You will be using the working yarn to pick up the stitches for the armhole finishing, as we show in our Picking Up Stitches tutorial.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I LOVE this jumper and am so excited about making two of them for my new twin granddaughters! But I’m confused about the skirt. I thought that the stockinette stitch was alternating rows of knit and purl. But the instructions say to knit every round. Shouldn’t there be a row of purls? Thank you so much!
HI Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! When knitting stockinette flat, you will alternate rows of knits and purls. However, when you knit stockinette in the round, you will knit every stitch! It does seem a bit like magic until you begin doing it and we find that it means that your project zooms through those stockinette in the round sections!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi,
Do you think this pattern is ok for an enthusiastic beginner?
Thanks!
Jillian
Hi Jillian,
Thanks for writing in! It’s hard to say without knowing what techniques you have attempted. This pattern is relatively simple if you are comfortable with increasing, minor seaming, textured stitch patterns and knitting in the round. The most difficult part of this pattern is joining the right and left back pieces to form the placket. I would suggest reading through the whole of the pattern and seeing if you feel comfortable with the techniques presented. I always support diving into a pattern with techniques that you have not yet tried. It’s the best way to learn!
Best,
Cassy
Thanks Cassy!
I’m comfortable with increasing and knitting in the round. I’m going to practice the textured pattern before starting the dress 🙂
Thanks!
I consider myself a pretty experienced knitter but am completely baffled by left front instructions. On which side of cable needle do I cast on so that I get a mirror image of the right side and it ends up looking like the photo? I note that both cast ons have the yarn on the right side which means they were both cast on identically but I can’t figure out for the life of me how to achieve that. If I cast on the left end of the cable needle the back of the left side is facing front; if I cast on the right side, that is not right either. I feel like I’m missing something simple here. Please help!
Hi Willa,
When you have finished the right front and turned the work around so the wrong side is facing you and then done the cable cast on you will slide that side onto the cable needle and just ignore it. You will then cast on for the left front on the left needle. After you have done your increases you will then incorporate the new stitches which will be on the wrong side.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
It worked fine. My problem was that after I cast on for the left front I just couldn’t see that this would work out. I still don’t understand how it happened, but it’s fine. Oh ye of little faith. Thanks for your prompt reply. I’ve already made two baby blankets from your site that came out great and were much loved,
.
The Purl Soho website is excellent especially as I’m experiencing knitting renaissance and discovering there is so much to learn. Is there a tutorial for the finishing slip stitch technique on the linen baby dress? Even with the photos and explanatory notes I am struggling to visualise what is involved. Many thanks.
Hello Anne,
Thank you for reaching out and such kind words! Unfortunately we do not currently have a video for this technique, though I will certainly pass along your suggestion. In the mean time, is there anything specific that you are struggling with that i could try and help with?
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi ANNE-
If I can add my 2 cents here – I also couldn’t figure out how to do the edging with knitting needles. I found using a size G crochet hook much simpler. Pick up your edge stitches as you would with knitting needles, then draw the last picked up stitch through the first stitch on the hook. I found that if the stitches are a little on the tight side it makes a nice even edge.
Lovely dress.
I’m just getting started and have a question.
On the front yoke instructions for the largest size, is this correct? Why wouldn’t the larger size go for about 4.5 or 5 inches?
“Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from cast-on edges, ending with a wrong side row.”
Seems like it will be shorter than the smallest size.
Hello Beth,
Thank you for reaching out! The instructions are correct. I know it sounds counterintuitive, but when combined with the other parts of the pattern it works out mathematically. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello! I am trying to figure out why the length to underarm for the smallest size is 3 3/4 inches, yet the larger sizes are 3 1/2. Is it correct (I’m thinking it was supposed to be 3 1/4)? Is it because babies are chubbier? Thanks!
Hello Lisa,
Thank you for reaching out! The reason for this is because there are more increase rows in the larger sizes. For the finished measurements of all the sizes check out the sizes diagram just above the pattern notes.
I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Just wanted to note for those who want to make this dress in a larger size: Play around with needle sizes and different weights of yarn. For a dress for my 3 yr-old niece, I followed the instructions for size 12m-18m, adjusting the length, using size 10 needles and Cascade Superwash Aran (just over four skeins because I added a Peter Pan collar). The dress is loose enough for her to wear as a jumper over a tee during cooler months. You might have to knit several gauge swatches, but it can be done.
Hi again,
Almost done and need a little help with finishing the armholes. Where and how exactly do you pick up the stitches? I’ve tried a few times and doesn’t seem to look right.
Thanks!
Jillian
Hi Jillian,
Thanks for writing in! This part can be a bit tricky! I rely heavily on the two pictures below the “Armhole Edging” heading. You can also check out our tutorial on picking up stitches, paying special attention to “Along a Vertical Edge: Stockinette Stitch”. This will not fully apply as you are picking up along a curved edge but I find that it helps tremendously!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
How would I enlarge this to fit a 3 year old? I want to make matching dresses for my granddaughters – one is a size 12 months now and the other is a 3T – but by the spring – I think they’ll be even bigger,
Hi Margi,
Thanks for writing in! We regrettably don’t have this pattern available in sizes other than those we list here, but your interest for more sizes is very helpful to us in planning items going forward, and we greatly appreciate your writing in!
Best,
Cassy
Hello,
I completed knitting (in Freshwater Pearl, smallest size) the Linen Stitch portion, but have now found out my grandchild will be a boy. Can you kindly provide any guidance in converting the rest of the project into a onesie? Any assistance will be appreciated. Thank you!
By the way, I love shopping in your Soho Store. The staff is always so friendly and helpful!
Hi Joan,
Thank you so much for your kind words! We are so glad that you have had a lovely time in our shop! Converting this pattern to a onesie will certainly require some trial and error. I am not sure what the best way to do this would be. You will need to divide the skirt to create legs and install some sort of closure in the legs. If you are up for a challenge, it could be totally worth it!
Best,
Cassy
Hi- love this dress. I’m finishing the arm holes and the back following directions but I’m not sure how to end the pick up bindoff since I’m not using additional yarn to bindoff?
Hello?
Was I supposed to pick up stitches using additional working yarn? The direction does not say that. So I picked up and slipped bond off left with one stitch an thecend w/0 working yarn to pull through as on normal bindoff.
Bummer.
I’ll figure it out. Been waiting 24 hours for reply.
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! For the armholes you will be using additional working yarn to pick up stitches! We certainly see how this can be a bit confusing and have added wording to clarify the directions. Our apologies for any confusion!
Best,
Cassy
I wonder if it’s possible to skip the linen stitch and do stockinette instead? Would it produce a similar-sized garment? I am looking to simplify because the linen stitch isn’t working out for me.
Hello Annie,
Thank you for reaching out! If you knit this in Stockinette stitch you will have issues with curling unless you put a border around the edge. You could also try Seed stitch or Garter stitch which are both reversible.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I have knitted the top part in stockinette. All the live stitches were on placeholder yarn. Before starting the skirt portion, I wove in all the ends, and wet blocked to create a top that was flat and ready to continue without curls. Made it very easy to finish edges and begin the skirt portion.
I made this wonderful little dress for my granddaughter last year and it looks adorable (I think). I would love to make it again in size 2 or 3. Any hope that larger sizes will be added to this pattern? Fingers crossed …
Hello Sherrill,
Thank you for reaching out! We do not have a larger version of this pattern, but I will certainly pass along your request!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello! Just started working on this and have a question about the front yoke. Instructions say:
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from cast-on edges, ending with a wrong side row.
Is it 3 1/2 inches from original cast on or from cable cast on that we did for the right shoulder? Seems as though it should be from the cable cast on but it doesn’t specify. Thank you!
Hello Katy,
Thank you for reaching out! You’ll measure from the top of the shoulders (and not the front neck cable cast-on edge). I hope this helps clarify! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
I made this dress twice. I found that the increases were worked better two stitches from the end, and every other row. The directions as mentioned left me with too many “nubs”. I made both the 0-6 and the 6-12. The 0-6 is just fitting my 7 month old and is adorable, however I find the larger one to be less successful due to proportions (even with my modifications). I find it so odd that I may undo it and make another 0-6. Did both in the cotton pure, absolutely love the yarn!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for the note! The thing that I love most about knitting is that we can all alter patterns to work best for us and share that experience! We are sorry to hear that the larger size was less successful for you. We’d love to know what challenges that you had with the larger size!
Best,
Cassy
I love this so much! I’ve finished the dress and am on to the sleeve edgings… Picking up every stitch seems to give me a bit of a ruffle look, which is cute, but not what I want. Can you please save me and make a video detailing the sleeve/neck finishing technique?
Watching your video on picking up stitches along a vertical edge is helpful. I think I’m just struggling reading the linen stitch especially around the curves where we increased. Help!
Hi Susan,
Unfortunately we do not have a video for this technique, but I think I can help! If you are familiar with crocheting at all, our finishing stitch is essentially a slip stitch worked with knitting needles instead of a crochet hook. I found it much easier to use a crochet hook the same size as my knitting needle (in this case, a size 5 knitting needle is equivalent to a F crochet hook) and work a slip stitch in each stitch around the openings. If you aren’t a crocheter, I would recommend trying a smaller knitting needle to work the edging stitch a bit tighter which will prevent the ruffled effect.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you! That’s exactly what I did and it worked beautifully.
Hello! I am a beginning knitter but am so proud to have almost finished this dress! I am at the point of finishing the armholes. For some reason, I just can’t figure out what to do! Can you give a little clarification on how to pick up the two stitches and then use the working yarn? Thanks so much.
Hi Angela,
Thanks for writing in! You are not alone in finding this step a bit tricky! You may find it helpful to check out our tutorial on picking up stitches, paying special attention to “Along a Vertical Edge: Stockinette Stitch” – essentially, you will be binding off each stitch as you pick them up.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Great pattern! Loved knitting it! One little thing; the font is pretty thin and light colored. After a while, it gets harder to read. Is there any way to get a hard-of-sight version with a larger font or bolded letters? Again, lovely pattern!
Hi Sofia,
Thank you for the kind words! We’re so glad you enjoyed our pattern! You can change the font size when printing or saving a PDF of our patterns. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
You can now increase the text size as desired and also delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%. You can then either print a copy or save a PDF with the larger text size.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love your patterns! This one is so beautiful, in its elegant simplicity (like all of your patterns!). I am expecting a grandson next month. Any suggestions on how to adapt this to a romper instead of a dress?
Hi Amy,
Thank you so much for the kind words! I would try adding some decreases at the bottom of the skirt section and then using Kitchener Stitch to seam shut the center third or so of the skirt. You could then pick up stitches around each leg and ad a bit of ribbing to add a bit more shaping.
I hope that helps! Let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi! Thank you so much for such a beautiful pattern!! Im currently knitting this for my baby (in the 0-6 size) and just want to confirm in the Front Yoke section that I should work the linen stitch flat until the piece measures 3 3/4 inches (rather than 3 1/2 inches for the other sizes)? Just seems strange to me that the smallest size would have a longer length here. Thank you in advance!!
Also – is it 3 3/4 inches from the cable cast on edge or from the cast on shoulders?
Hi Julia,
This is measured from the original cast on of the shoulders. 🙂
Best,
Julianna
Hi Julia,
Thanks for reaching out and for the kind words! This is correct – for the smallest size, you will be working fewer decrease rows than the other sizes, so although the yoke is longer initially, by the time all the decrease rows are finished the length is still shorter than it is for the other sizes.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m so sorry to ask such a dumb question, but I can’t seem to find where the tops of the shoulders are joined. Could someone please point me to this part of the pattern? I must have skipped it, and re-reading it a few times hasn’t helped :/
Hello Nina,
Thank you for reaching out- there are no dumb questions! After you have completed knitting the Front Left and the Front Right sections of the pattern, you will pick up your stitches at the top for your front shoulders to knit the Back Left and the Back Right. It explains this under the “Back Right Shoulder” section.
I hope this clears things up for you and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Yes, thank you so much!
I’m having trouble with the button hole row
“**Buttonhole Row 1 (wrong side): P4, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, p1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, *p1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. [2 stitches bound off]”
How do you P4, and then pass 2nd stitch over first stitch?
I’m not getting it, can you clarify it for me please? Thank you very much.
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! After purling the first 4 stitches, you will be binding off the second to last of those stitches. In other words, you will purl 4, then use the left hand needle to grab the second stitch from the end of the right hand needle (which is the third stitch you purled) and pass it over the last stitch and off the needle.
I hope that helps! If you have any other questions please let us know!
Best,
Julianna
Love the pattern! I’ve just started the skirt and I’m absolutely confused by the increases.. I keep re-reading but I’m too in my brain to understand it ? , help please?
Hello Laura,
Thank you for writing- you are almost to the easy part of the pattern! Luckily we have a great video Tutorial for M1L and M1R that I find very helpful and I hope you do to!
I f you continue to have issues, just let us know!
-Marilla
Hi,
I too was a bit confused by the finishing edging technique, but I think the key is that you need to re-attach working yarn, and use this to create “new” stitches that are hooked into the picked up edge stitches. I only recently figured out that “picking up stitches” actually involves using new yarn to make new stitches attached to the picked up stitches – not directly knitting into (or in this case slipping) the existing stitches. Maybe this was immediately clear to everyone else but it wasn’t to me! Hope this helps.
I’m wondering if this has been attempted using a different type of yarn? I would like to consider using something softer and warmer. Any suggestions that would work well with the pattern? Thanks!
Hello Hannah,
Thank you for reaching out! This dress can be knit up in any sport weight yarn. I think it would be particularly beautiful in Mulberry Merino or Season Alpaca.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for creating this pattern and making it available for free. I’m a new knitter so I look for free patterns while learning new techniques. I’m on the back front shoulder where I need to pick up from cast on edge with right side facing you. When I pick up and then knit and then start the 7 row flat linen stitch starting and ending with WS, I find the transition is visible with a row of knit vs linen stitch. Is there a way to avoid that transition line being visible? Thank you!
Trupti
Hi Trupti,
Thanks for reaching out! While there will almost always be a visible line or seam after picking up stitches, it should be fairly subtle in this pattern. It sounds like you might not be picking up the stitches correctly since you should be able to begin with the wrong side row of the Linen Stitch Flat pattern immediately without knitting a row after picking up the stitches. I would suggest reviewing our tutorial on Picking Up Stitches to see if that helps!
Best of luck and thank you so much for the kind words!
Julianna
I have loved knitting this beautiful little dress. Can you tell me which method of binding off the stitches of the skirt is better – the Basic Bind Off or the Elizabeth Zimmerman Better Bind Off? I’ve started the Basic Bind Off and am not happy with it as the bound off stitches are not even. I’m going to wait for your reply before continuing. Thank you.
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! For this lovely little dress, we did use a basic pass over bind off but you can use any bind off that you find works best for you. It can take a little practice to get the tension correct with Elizabeth Zimmerman’s Better Bind Off so it might be worth trying it out on a swatch first to see if you like the look of it and then decide between the two!
Best,
Cassy
Any way this can be sized up for a girl’s dress/tunic (size 8-9)?
Hi Patrice,
Thanks for writing in! At present this dress is only available in infant and toddler sizes; however, I will pass your suggestion along to our design team!
Best,
Julianna
I can’t say it’s the most beautiful thing I’ve ever made, but this was a fun project for my little girl! Purl Soho patterns have consistently taught me new skills and helped me gain confidence in my knitting. The instructions made sense to my intermediate knitting brain. If it weren’t for your patterns, I might have stuck with flat, boring projects over the last decade. So thank you!
Excited to start this project. Have the yarn and the US 5 circular needle. Why do I need spare US5 circular needles? Isn’t one enough? Thanks.
Hello Elaine,
Thank you for this great question! You will need your spare needle to graft the front and back shoulders together. You could use either straights or circulars of any length for the process.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Wonderful pattern. I’m enjoying seeing this little dress come together and am just about ready to start the skirt. I may just be unfamiliar with knitting nomenclature, but what does “place marker for side,” mean? Am I just placing a marker to show which is the right side of the skirt and which is the wrong side? Thanks.
Hi Elaine,
Great question! This means to place a stitch marker on the needle between the indicated stitches. As you knit the rest of the dress, you will slip this marker every time you come to it so it stays floating between the same stitches on the needle. This marker indicates that it is the side “seam” of the dress, and later on in the pattern, you will be working some increases and using this marker to keep track of where to work them.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve done the first few rows of the skirt; joined the front to the back, did the first increase round (4 stitches increased), and completed one knit round. As I look at it, however, the stitches at the bottom of the righthand armhole in particular, are really loose and stretched. Do I have to rip back and do those rows again, or will this tighten up when I do the armhole finishing? If so, is there some tip or trick that I should know that will allow me to tighten up that spot so that those loose stitches vanish? Hope that makes sense. Many thanks.
Hi Elaine,
Thanks for reaching out! Is it possible that the loose stitches are attached to an end of yarn that needs to be woven in and can be used to tighten them up? The armhole finishing is minimal, but it will serve to cover up the very edge of the armhole, so it’s possible that will solve your problem. Before ripping back, I would recommend seeing if you can tighten or disguise these stitches using any available ends of yarn and try a bit of the armhole finishing. It’s hard to tell what exactly is causing the loose stitches without seeing your work so I don’t have any more specific tips, but hopefully one of those two things will help!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks for this very sweet baby dress.
Am knitting the Clean and Simple Baby Dress, at the armhole increase, you are at 63 stitches, it says increase 3 times, 4 stitches increased every time, for a total of 79 stitches. 63 + 12 =75 not 79.
Can you explain what to do? Thank you
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! After working the increase row the first time, you will repeat it three more times, so you will be working it a total of four times and increasing 16 stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I adore this dress and cannot wait to knit it for a dear friend’s baby girl. Would you please suggest which of your hat patterns would work well in Cotton Pure to match this sweet knit? I love baby sets! Thanks so much!!!!!
Hi Megan,
Thanks for reaching out – this dress is one of my favorite gifts to knit for good friends! I would try the Four Spokes Hat or Top-Down Ear Flap Hat – both are written for sport weight yarn and come in baby sizes and should look adorable with the dress!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! I am just about to try this pattern out. It will be the first time I knit a gauge swatch (after knitting a sweater for myself that can fit three people in the body ?). I didn’t want to wait to order the yarn so I bought yarn that is a 52% cotton and 48% acrylic blend. It’s a sport yarn and I’m curious if the pattern will still work. I’m not the best knitter so this question may be silly but thank you 🙂
Hi Reva,
Thanks for reaching out! Since we used a sport weight yarn for our pattern there is a very good chance that your yarn will work out to the correct gauge, but the only way to really find out will be to knit and measure your gauge swatch! To do so, you will need to cast on about 30 stitches and work in stockinette stitch for 4 to 5 inches. You can then count how many stitches are in the center four inches of your swatch. If you have too many stitches, you will need to knit a new swatch on a larger needle, and if you have too few stitches, you will need to try a smaller needle. Once your stitches per four inches match ours you will be good to go!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I had one other question regarding the gauge swatches. The pattern has Linen Stitch both flat and in the round. Is it sufficient if I knit this guage swatch flat or do I need to do two swatches (one flat and one in the round)? Thank you!
Hello Reva,
This is a great question! For the most accuracy I would knit up a swatch flat and in the round. I would knit my flat swatch first and then unravel it to knit up your swatch in the round.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Did you find during blocking that there was shrinkage due to the cotton?
Hi Tere,
Thanks for writing in! I have made several garments, including this dress, out of Cotton Pure and found that there was little to no shrinkage, even after machine washing and drying. It is always a good idea to wash and dry your gauge swatch the same way you intend to wash and dry the garment to make sure your gauge will still be correct, but unlike wool yarns, cotton doesn’t shrink significantly, although the gauge may tighten up just a bit.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you for this adorable pattern. I used straight needles to knit the yoke, then transferred to circular needles. This seemed easier for me.
I have a question on measurement under the section “front yoke”. Pattern states:
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from cast-on edges, ending with a wrong side row.
Is this the cast-on edge of the shoulder (where we cast on 11 stitches) or the cast on edge where we used a cable cast on to add 25 stitches? Thank you!
Hi Reva,
Thanks for reaching out! You should take this measurement from the original cast on edges at the shoulder.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Back Right Armhole says “Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an increase row every 4th row one (2, 3) more times.” But then for Back Left Armhole says “Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an increase row every 4th row one (2, 2) more times.”
This seems like a mistake. I’m making the largest size and assume I should do the increase section 3x on both sides, not 3x on the Right and 2x on the Left. Is that right?
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for reaching out! The first set of increases on the Back Left are actually shaping the neckline and match the increases in the Back Right Neck section. If you read a bit further, after you have worked the buttonholes, you will see another set of increases towards the end of this section that match the armhole increases.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello!
I’m on the section to join the right and left backs and I’m having trouble understanding how to line up the last seven stitches of the left back to the right back. Is there a video or some more information on this part? If not, I’d love some more written information on how to line this up, thank you!!
Hi Reva,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a video specifically for this step. However, you may find our Knit Hem video helpful, as the stitches are joined together in the same fashion as you would for a hem. First, you will knit across the Left Back until you are at the last seven stitches; then, holding the needle with the Right Back stitches behind and parallel to the needle holding these last seven stitches, you will join them together as shown in the Knit Hem video.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’ve started knitting the simple baby dress. I have a simple question , I wanted to clarify. I’m starting the pattern… On the Front right shoulder after casting on stitches, the pattern says to work 8 rows in linen stitch flat. Does it actually mean working rows 1&2 , 3 times? I think I’m OVER thinking this step.
Thanks
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for reaching out! To work a total of eight rows, you will need to repeat rows 1 and 2 a total of four times, since the cast on does not count as a row.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve done my gauge swatch, but am not liking the selvedge. It looks like the tension isn’t the same. Should I make sure I make that first and last stitch on a row are tight? I tried slipping the first stitch, but it was “loopy”.
Any tips on a “cleaner” selvedge or should I not worry about it because there will be finishing edge along the armholes?
Thank you!
Hello Minda,
Thanks for reaching out! For this project there is no need to worry about a messy selvedge, because you will do an edging at the end! Once you have finished your dress you will pick up and cast off around all of your edges.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks so much for your response. One last question, I’m looking at the instructions for the linen stitch. The gauge instructions are over an even number of stitches, where in the pattern instructions the number of stitches are odd. Should I use an odd number of stitches for the gauge.
Hello Minda,
Thank you for reaching out! When knitting up your gauge swatch you will just be measuring the stitches in the middle of your swatch for optimal tension. To knit Linen stitch it must be an odd number I would reccomend casing on something like 31 or 33 stitches and measure the stitches.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Is the gauge written to accommodate washing? If I knit to gauge without pre laundering, will it still be the size intended after laundering? In other words, should I wash the yarn first and then knit to gauge?
Hi Katherine,
Thanks for reaching out! Our patterns are always written to the listed gauge, so to avoid surprises after you launder your garment the first time, it is always best practice to wash and block your gauge swatch the same way you intend to wash and block the finished garment. Washing the yarn before knitting a gauge swatch isn’t necessary, because even if you do wash your yarn and then knit and block a swatch, the yarn could still change in the final swatch, so I would instead recommend washing your swatch. In the case of Cotton Pure, we recommend machine washing and drying, so you can just toss it in the wash with your next load of clothes!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I love this dress
I am a pretty knew to knitting but I want the challenge. I’m wondering if you have a video showing how to do the top part of the patter. Written instructions are a bit confusing but with some visuals I think I could figure it out. I have a gorgeous DK weight super wash Marino wool I want to use.
Hi Lallie,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid we don’t have a video of this pattern though! If you’re hoping to find a demonstration of linen stitch (that’s what’s used for the top part of the dress), I’d recommend searching for that in your favorite search engine, and lots of videos will come up, if you want to see it in action!
All the best,
Lili
I’m on the back left neck and portion of the patten with the button holes and I don’t understand the portion of the instructions that say [2 stitches bound off] and [2 stitches cast on]? I’m I suppose to do something with 2 stitches? I also don’t understand how the side with the buttonholes will overlap on the other side without pulling from the left side over. Both the right and the left sides are the same amount of stitches so they meet in the middle . How do you get the left side to overlap the right side for buttons without throwing off one side. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! These notes are simply clarifying what you accomplished in that row. For instance, in Buttonhole Row 1, which reads, “P4, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, p1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, *p1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2,” the end result is that you have bound off two stitches for the buttonhole. You don’t need to do anything extra when you read this note at the end of the row!
Although the two back pieces are the same number of stitches, when added up they have more stitches than the front to account for the button band overlap. The front piece before the armhole increases had 55 (59, 63) stitches, while the two backs added together are 62 (66, 70) stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve just started the skirt increases but am a bit puzzled. I have two markers on my needles. The instructions say to increase one stitch before each marker. That yields 2 stitches increased per round, not the 4 stated in the pattern. Have I missed something?
Thanks for clarifying.
Hi Madeline,
Thanks for reaching out! You should actually be increasing before and after each marker, for a total of four increases per row. The skirt increase round reads, “[K1, m1r, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1l, k1, slip marker] 2 times,” so you will be working a m1r after each marker and a m1l before each marker.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi-
I have a question about my increases on the right front shoulder.
After I knit the first increase row that ends in F1fbf I count the next row which is the wrong side row as 1 so on the 4th row I’m back on the right side for F1fbf at the end of the row . So there are 3 rows between increases. When I finished the increase the shaping look like steps, but in your pictures it looks like a nice curve. What am I doing wrong that I get steps and not a curve? Thanks for you help
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you are working the increases correctly! If you look at the pictures immediately below this section, you can see that the neck edge does look a bit uneven and ragged before adding the neck edging and blocking, which we have done in the finished pictures at the beginning of the pattern. I think you will be happy with how the neck looks once you have done all the finishing!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi there, thanks for this beautiful pattern! I’m really enjoying it so far. One thing i’m struggling with is whenever I do the increase rows (k1fbf), the edges end up looking jagged, like little step ladders, instead of the more smooth edges your images seem to have. Any advice on how to keep the increase rows looking smooth? Thanks!
Hi Hillary,
Thanks for writing in! It is quite normal for the edges of this dress to look as you describe immediately after working the increases. If you look at the pictures immediately below this section, you can see that the neck edge does look a bit uneven and ragged before adding the neck edging and blocking, which we have done in the finished pictures at the beginning of the pattern. I think you will be happy with how the neck looks once you have done all the finishing!
Best,
Julianna
How do you cast off the last stitch on the edging? It just says to continue to the end but you’re left with one last stitch.
Thanks!
Maureen
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! You will cut the working yarn and pull it through the last stitch. You can then weave that end in to create a neat little finished edge!
Best,
Cassy
Blargh, pregnancy brain, of course. Thanks for the reply!
Oh, actually I meant on the edging stitch, I was under the understanding that I was supposed to use the edge stitch itself rather than a new working yarn. Should I have used new yarn instead? If not, how do I cast off the very last stitch?
In the instructions:
With right side of armhole facing and beginning at center of underarm, pick up 2 stitches using working yarn, *pass the second stitch on right needle over the first stitch, pick up 1 more stitch, repeat from * until you return to the center of underarm.
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for reaching out! You can use the existing working yarn that is already attached instead of joining a new strand, but it sounds like you might have just picked up loops from the edge of the work without using the working yarn. I would suggest taking a look at our Picking Up Stitches tutorial to make sure you are picking them up correctly!
Best,
Julianna
I have the same issue! I wove in my ends already. Should I use a new working yarn to edge it? What is this type of edging called? I’d love to find a separate tutorial on it! Thank you!!!
Hi Megan,
Thanks for writing in. Yes, you can absolutely join in a new strand to begin the edge! There unfortunately isn’t a specific name for this type of edge, but to give you a sense of how it works, it’s just comprised of picking up stitches and binding off those stitches immediately. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I would love to make this as a top or dress for an adult but is too much of a beginner to know how to adapt the pattern. Any thoughts of doing this and posting it on your site?
Hi Winnie,
Thank for reaching out! We don’t currently have plans to add adult sizes to this pattern, but I will be sure to pass your suggestion along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Would you recommend this pattern for someone who is between beginner and intermediate?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern is fairly straightforward and includes basic stitches and increases, as well as a special increase which is explained in the pattern. The vast majority of the knitting is plain stockinette stitch in the round! I would suggest reading through the pattern to see if you think it’s something you’d like to try, and remember we are always here to help if you have any questions!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you for such a stress free, simple garment. These are trying times and an easy, straightforward project is just the thing!!
Under Front Yoke:
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2)
Do you mean 3 1/4 “(rather than 3 3/4”)for 1st size?
Thanks,
Missy
Hi Missy,
Thanks for reaching out! This is correct! Because you will be working fewer increase rows for the smallest size, you do need to knit a longer piece than you do for the other sizes before beginning the increase rows.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Also, am I measuring from the cast on shoulder or yolk?
Many thanks for answers.
So appreciate being able to knit while having to isolate.
Wishing everyone well.
Hi Missy,
You will be measuring from the cast on edge!
Best,
Julianna
I am wondering the same question and was hoping for some clarification, do we measure the 3 3/4 inches from the shoulder or the neckline? I see in the instructions it says from the cast on edge, so I was assuming from the shoulder, but the picture (and thickness of baby arms) would suggest we measure from the neckline.
Hi Katie,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct that you should measure from the shoulder cast-on edges for this part of the yoke. For the smallest size, the left and right front shoulders should measure 1.75 inches before casting on for the front neck, and you will then continue for a further 2 inches so the full piece measures 3.75 inches from the shoulder. You will then work the 8 rows of armhole shaping, which should add about .75 more inches, for a total yoke length of 4.5 inches. There aren’t any side seams in the armholes up to this point, so the total armhole will measure 4.5 inches in length, which should be plenty for even the squishiest of baby arms!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
This will be my first try at any kind of garment. I’ve had some history with choosing the wrong yarn for a project before (an acrylic for the Elementary Wrap) that rolled terribly. Then couldn’t be blocked flat because of the yarn choice a big box store suggested.
I went to a local yarn store this time and asked for help with this project. They suggested, and I bought, Comfort DK. While I was knitting the swatch to check gauge it seemed to want to roll already. Then I looked at the yarn and it’s 50% nylon and 50% acrylic.
Should I not start it with that yarn and get 100% cotton instead? I do not want to put the time into this and be disappointed again.
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! For this dress, because it is a three dimensional piece, it is much less critical that your knitted fabric be less prone to rolling; however, we used a sport weight yarn, which is somewhat thinner than a DK weight yarn. I would suggest paying careful attention to your gauge swatch, as you may find that you have to adjust your needle size to get the correct gauge, and the fabric may be thick or dense at that gauge because your yarn is heavier. As long as you are happy with the drape and feel of your swatch, you don’t need to be concerned if it is rolling up!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you. Here I go!!
I am planning on knitting this pattern using your line weight merino which I already have. How will that affect the sizing and how should I adjust my needle sizes?
Hi Chelsea,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately Line Weight on its own is too thin for this pattern, as it is a light fingering weight and this dress is written for a sport weight. I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch using Line Weight held double to see if you are able to match our gauge, although it might be too thick held double. However, the best way to find out is to knit a swatch!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m knitting the dress and have a question about the instructions under “Right Front Neck.” After I cable cast on 25 sts, the instructions say “slide all stitches off the needles’ ends and onto the cable.” What does that mean?
Thank you!
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out! This means that, on a pair of circular needles, you will slide all the stitches onto the flexible cable of the needles to wait for later. If you are using straight needles, I would suggest moving these stitches to a stitch holder instead!
Best,
Julianna
I have a problem with the part: “ Slide Right Front Shoulder stitches off left needles and onto the cable. Turn work.“
After casting on 11 stitches the working yarn is on the right side of the stitches but I am still on the wrong side of the work.
How can I turn my work without knitting those cast-on stitches first?
Hi Judith,
Thank you for writing in! We are sorry you are having trouble with this pattern. If you don’t mind, could you please send in a photo of your work so we could have a closer look? You can email our team at [email protected]! Sometimes seeing the project visually can help us better assess the issue.
All the best,
Gavriella
thank you so much.i am searching for this pattern for very long term.thanks agan its very helpful.
Can I use 29″ needles instead of 24″?
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for asking! We’ve called for a 24″ needle to allow even the smallest size to be knit in the round – the yoke is knit flat but then the skirt is knit in the round to finish the dress. If you were to knit the largest, 12-18 month size, a 29″ needle would work!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Hi – I’m having difficulty understanding the process for the armhole edging. Is there another way to explain it?
Michelle
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in about this! I’d suggest taking a look at our tutorial for picking up stitches and see if that helps – . If that doesn’t help clear up your question, please let me know and I’ll see if I can help to rephrase things in a way that works for you! The link I referenced goes a bit more into depth and I hope that will help.
Best,
Cassandra
Hi Cassandra! Thank you for directing me to the tutorial. I’m able to follow all four methods but still confused by the instructions in the pattern: “pick up 2 stitches using working yarn, *pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first stitch, pick up 1 more stitch, repeat from *….
Thank you in advance.
Michelle
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! Starting at the center of the underarm, after you have picked up the two stitches, tutorial here, you will essentially be binding off one. Picking up another stitch and binding off one. Repeating this process all the way around the armhole. This leaves a nice tidy edge. I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting
Jessica
Hi, I’m loving knitting this sweet little dress.
Question: row 1 of button hole Why am I Purling and s1wyb , instead of my regular linen stitch of K1 s1wyf? I just want to make sure that is what I am to do every time I work a buttonhole.
Thanks
Hi Lisa,
Thank you so much for the kind words and for reaching out! Buttonhole Row 1 should be worked on a wrong side row, which requires slipping with the yarn in the back. If you take a look at our instructions for Linen Stitch Flat at the beginning of the pattern, you will see that the wrong side rows should always be P1, *p1, slip 1 (purlwise) with yarn in back (wyib), repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello Julianna
When I found this pattern I was very excited to get going, it’s such a sweet design. I am a very new knitter, but I have managed to get as far as joining the two back pieces and now I am stuck . I am ashamed to admit that I can’t understand how to knit the seven stitches from two needles to close the two sides of the dress. Please would you take the time to explain this to me please? I have nobody to help me. Thank you,
Kind regards
Maria
Hi Maria,
Thanks for writing in! I hope I can help clear up this step for you! At this point, you should have the needle with the last 7 stitches of the Left Back and the needle with all of the Right Back stitches held together parallel in your left hand, as shown in our picture in this section of the pattern. To join them together, you will insert your right hand needle as you normally would into the first stitch on the front needle (which is holding the Left Back stitches) and then into the first stitch on the back needle (which is holding the Right Back stitches), and then knit them together as usual. This is exactly the same as the beginning of our 3-Needle Bind Off Tutorial – the only difference is you will leave the stitches on the needle instead of binding them off after knitting them together!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Dear Julianna
Thank you very much for your advice with regards to my question. I did work out the technique before reading your reply. I hadn’t seen that I should use an extra needle. Once I saw realised this it was plain sailing. I’m sorry that I wasted your time.
Take care. Stay well.
Kind Regards
Maria
I love this pretty dress but I’m looking for another sweet cotton baby dress you once had. It was knitted from the bottom up and had a pretty seed or moss stitch bottom edge. Have I imagined it? Is the pattern still available?
Hi Julie,
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid we don’t have any patterns that match what you describe! The only other child’s dress pattern we have is our Baby Jumper, which is knit from the bottom up but has a garter stitch edging. I’m sorry I can’t be of more help, but I hope you are able to find the pattern you are looking for!
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
really want to knit this dress and I am not new to knitting, so felt confident that I could get through this quite easily.
I’m embarrassed to ask this question but i don’t know what to do. I’ve restarted the left front 5 times! I don’t understand why my left front is the exact same as my right – meaning, my increases face the same way so I would never be able to get them to match when picking up the cabled cast on 25 stitches.
I’m sure it’s a simple (no pun intended) answer, but i can’t seem to figure it out.
Any help would be most appreciated.
Hi Anne,
Thanks for writing in! For the left front, you will be increasing in the first stitch of the right side rows, and while working the right front, you should have increased in the last stitch of the right side rows. If you are sure you are increasing in the first stitch for the left front, is it possible that you worked the right front incorrectly? When worked correctly the two pieces should mirror each other, as you can see in the picture under “Front Yoke.”
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello! I’m struggling with the second row of the button hole 🙁 I’m following the instructions but somehow the cable cast on is leaving a hole in my work and when i turn it over to the right side and slip one with yarn in front then knit the two stitches left on my working needle, it creates a loose yarn piece which gets in the way of the button hole
Hi Liyun,
Thanks for reaching out! It is normal for there to be a small hole or gap right where you have started a cable cast on, but this should become much less noticeable when you knit the next row and disappear completely when you block the dress. Although it sounds like you are describing the process correctly, usually if there is a loose or extra strand of yarn after working a cable cast on in the middle of a row, it means that you worked the cast on with the wrong side facing. If you are sure that you are turning to the wrong side when starting the cable cast on and then turning back to the right side after it is complete, I would try giving the yarn an extra tug when slipping the next stitch to see if that tightens things up!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
I love this beautiful baby dress pattern but I’m having some issues understanding how to continue the linen stitch seamlessly after joining the 2 shoulders straps with the 25 cast on stitches. (The wrong side there are 2 purl stitches at the beginning and At the end of the straps) . It works beautifully until I joined the 25 stitchesFor some reason the stitch looks similar but courser than the straps.
I have had to unravel that part a few times. Do you know what I’m doing wrong. Thank you so much. I’m determined to get it right😊
Hi Martine,
Thanks for reaching out! I think I can better help you if you send us a photo of your work to our email [email protected] and we can trouble shoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi – I’m about to start this lovely dress for my sister in law, and I was wondering what the best cast on method is for this project. Is there a suggested or recommended method so I can kickstart this project?
Hi Tracey,
Thanks for reaching out! A basic Long Tail Cast On should be fine for this project!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello,
I’m going to knit this dress for my baby due in May, but I would like to add sleeves. Would it be similar to making a cardigan and knitting in sleeves in the round. Should I use linen or stockinette stitch?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes you can easily add sleeves to this dress as you would with a cardigan! You can pick up the stitches along the edge and then work the sleeves in the round. I would recommend using stockinette stitch to insure that you have a clean pattern all the way down!
I hope this helps and please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello!
I had a question about the section for the buttonholes. Let’s hope I can explain this the best I can.
When it says this, “Repeat from ** once more, then work Buttonhole Rows 1 and 2 again (three total buttonholes made). AT THE SAME TIME, when armhole measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from beginning of Back Left Shoulder,” am I knitting 8 rows in between buttonholes?
If so, that throws my measurement of 3 3/4 ” off for the back left piece. I completed the first buttonhole and the 8 rows even. Can someone explain to me what exactly this section means?
I’ve only been knitting for 2 years so I’m still learning on how to interpret patterns.
Thank you!
Hi KK,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help with this! After you maker your first buttonhole, you will work 8 rows even in the linen stitch and then repeat from the **, meaning you will repeat Buttonhole rows 1 and 2 until you have made 3 button holes, working 8 rows of the established linen stitch between! At this point your armhole should measure 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches, you will then begin to shape the Back Left Armhole!
I hope this helps clear things up, but if you have still having issues please send a photo of your work to our email [email protected] and we can troubleshoot further from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
Oh dear, I just found this pattern and I love it! However, I have two two-year-old granddaughters and so I’d need a 24 month size. Please share if this pattern can be easily expanded to 24 months. Thank you!
I am working on the buttonhole section but when I look at what I’ve knitted so far it is a bit bumpy and doesn’t look right. I’m wondering what I’m doing wrong. I think it is when I am on the buttonhole 2 with the cable cast on 2 stitches. Am I casting on 2 stitches on the left or right needle?
Hi Hannah,
Thanks for reaching out! When you cable cast on the 2 stitches you will be casting them on to the right needle and then turning the work! If you would like you can send us some photos of your work to our email [email protected] and we can troubleshoot further!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thanks for this lovely pattern. I’m almost finished and just want to check about the Linen Stitch in the Round. Do I slip the stitches knit wise? Thanks for your help.
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for reaching out! You will continue to slip all stitches purlwise unless otherwise noted!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
Thanks for your quick response. I’m looking forward to finishing this up and sending it to a relative who is expecting her first baby shortly.
Kathy
Hello
I’m perplexed about the skirt increase section. Do I make 1 before and after each marker to reach 4 stitches in total? Can you please clarify.
Hi Monica,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you are correct; you will be increasing by 4 stitches each time you work an increase round, with the increases happening on either side of the two markers (and one knit stitch between the increase and the marker). I hope this helps clear up any confusion!
All the best,
Kelsey
Absolutely love this pattern 😍 I was able to get a larger size, 4T, by using a heavier weight cotton and larger needle. I used my gauge swatch to match up the stitches for the increasing etc. It turned out FABULOUS! Thank you so much for creating and sharing this amazing pattern!
Thank you for your kind words! We’re so glad to hear that you’re enjoying the pattern and that you were able to create this sweet little dress in a larger size. We’d love to see photos of your completed Baby Dress if you wanted to email photos to us at [email protected], or if you’re on Instagram you can use the hashtags #purlsoho and #purlsohobusyhands to share!
Thank you again, and happy knitting!
Warmly,
Kelsey
A delight to knit, wear and keep for future generations!
Hello:
I have a crazy ?. Can this dress be done in a moss stitch?
I’m in the midst of finishing a cardigan w/moss stitch edging and this dress would look so darling w/it along w/booties and a hat.
It would make a really great ensemble.
Thank you.
Concetta
Hi Concetta,
Thanks for reaching out! That is a great question, it may be a bit tricky since seed stitch is a much different gauge from stockinette stitch and linen stitch so it may require quite a bit of adjustment to work with the pattern. So if you are up for a bit of a challenge then you could try this out, I would then recommend starting off by working a gauge swatch.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Would it be possible to get instructions for this darling dress in a 3T?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! At this time we only offer this pattern for up to 12-18 months, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
In front yoke section,
((Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from cast-on edges, ending with a wrong side row.))
Does cast on edges refer to the shoulders or the middle of the yoke ie neck?
Hi AM,
Thanks for writing in! The cast-on edges for this part of the pattern refers to the shoulders.
I hope this helps! Have a great day!
All the best,
Cat
Back right shoulder in the biggest size, I assumed that I was knitting 3.5” from the neckline, not from the 13 stitches at the shoulder, and the front and back panel would be symmetrical. Am I wrong and the back panel in linen stitch is shorter? Thanks.
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out. The 3.5 inches in both parts of this pattern should be measured from the cast-on edges at the shoulder, and not at the neckline! The front and back of the dress should definitely be symmetrical in this regard. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Now I’m very confused, because in the post before this, Catherine says it is from the yoke/neckline (at least for the front). Seems like you confirmed they should be symmetrical, so I will just go with that.
Hi Sara,
Oh no, apologies for the conflicting information! I can confirm that measuring this distance from the shoulder cast-on edges is the correct way, and in the meantime, we’ll edit the earlier comment so that no one else gets confused in the future!
All the best,
Lili
Hi — US 5 needles are 3.75mm (not 4mm as the pattern indicates). Could you clarify the needle size?
Thanks — s
Hi Sinduja,
Thanks for letting us know about this! You’re right–US 5 needles are not 4mm, so we will update that on this post as soon as possible. Thanks again for pointing that out!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, are all slipped stitches to be slipped purlwise, even when not specified? Or are unspecified slips to be slipped knitwise?
Hi Kelsey,
Thanks for reaching out. You’re absolutely correct! When not noted otherwise, all stitches should be slipped purlwise. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi all
I would love to knit this dress but I have a grudge with linen stitch and I know from experience that one goof and you’re done for. Hard to correct. I would rather do the bodice in stockinette! Can I? Thank you!
Kath
Hi Kath,
Thanks for writing in! I’m afraid that stockinette stitch won’t quite work for the top of this pattern. That’s because linen stitch has a significantly shorter row gauge than stockinette does, because of all the slipped stitches. The top of the dress would come out way too long in stockinette!
If you’d like to give the linen stitch a go however, I’d recommend putting a lifeline in so if you make a mistake, you don’t have to undo everything! You can do this by using a tapestry needle to thread a piece of scrap yarn through one leg of each stitch on one row. Then if you need to undo a large chunk of knitting, you can rip back without fear of losing any stitches! Once you’ve unraveled to the point of the lifeline, you can slip those stitches back onto your needles and remove the scrap yarn.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili — yowee! I’m intrigued. It’s the kind of a “fix” that could have all kindsa applications going forward. Might just make me braver…
: ))
I just finished working the top section in stockinette, and the result is a yoke with measurements equal to those indicated in the pattern for the smallest size. So I would encourage anyone who wants to knit a stockinette dress that it may work well for you.
For the left shoulder, the instructions state to cast on the required number of stitches and turn the work. What cast on is used and what does “turn work” mean?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! We used a basic Long Tail Cast On. “Turn work” means to turn your your needles around so that the other side of the knitting is facing you. When you knit flat (not in the round), you will generally turn your work after each row, so that you can knit back and forth.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m absolutely loving how this is knitting up! However, I am having a hell of a time joining the front and back pieces without a huge gap. Turns out that all of my tricks for a seamless/invisible join only work when joining from a cast on row. Without that tail to tighten up the gap I’m at a bit of a loss. Would appreciate any tips to prevent the gap!!
Hi Martha,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend taking a short pice of yarn and weaving it into the knit fabric across the gap, just like you’d do with a tail. This will close up the gap very securely!
All the best,
Lili
Help please!
I am at the point where you knit to the last 7 stitches then knit right back and left back together but every time I do it it is twisted. I am doing something worng but not sure what😭😭
Hi Greta,
Thanks for reaching out! Would you be able to send a photo of your work to [email protected]? That way, we can better visualize what’s going on and be able to give you advice!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I got discouraged and put it down for a while. Came back to it and ripped out the yarn and started over and I’m happy to report I figured out the error and it is now coming together quite nicely. I’m excited to see it finished☺️
Hi,
This is a beautiful pattern!
I am knitting the 6-12 month size. I am wondering on the back why there are only 2 rows from the neck to the first buttonhole while in the 6 mos and 12-18 mos sizes there are four rows? Two rows seems as though the button hole will be too close to the edge.
Thanks!
Lexy
Hi Lexy,
Thanks for reaching out! The difference in rows is due to how the pattern was graded for multiple sizes. But don’t worry! You’ll work an edging around the neckline and armholes after you’re finished with the main sections, and that will add some more fabric to the edge before the first buttonhole. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Dear Lili,
Got it! Thanks so much for your reply.
Best,
Lexy
Hi, if I don’t want to make the back with buttons, would I do the same pattern as the front?
Hi Vivianne,
Thanks for reaching out, and yes! You can make the back identical to the front if you don’t want to use buttons.
All the best,
Lili
Hello! So far I’ve done just the first two sections (Right Front Shoulder and Right Front Neck), but when I look at it with the right side facing me… it looks like I made the left shoulder/neck to me. Do you know how I could’ve possibly produced the left instead of the right? If I continue will it be okay? Thanks so much in advance for the help!!
Hi Sara,
Thanks for writing in! Would you mind sending some photos of your projects to [email protected]? We’d love to have a look to see if we can get you back on track!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hello –
I am on the finishing touches of this dress but struggling with the edging. Once you have completed the armhole edging and are back to where you started – how do you secure the chain? It seems like there is one loop left open which can unravel? Thanks!
Hi Allison,
Thanks for writing in! You can pull the yarn through the last stitch and weave in the end to the inside of the dress to secure it. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hello – I’m at a complete loss as to how to do the Back Right Shoulder. Before this section, the pattern says to “cut yarn and place stitches on a piece of scrap yarn.” Does this mean I put all stitches on scrap yarn? The Back Right Shoulder instructions say to “pick up and knit 11 (11, 13) stitches from cast on edge.” Is that the cast on edge that I started the pattern with?
Thank you
Hi Despina,
Great questions! You will want to put all the stitches you were just knitting onto a holder or scrap yarn. So everything on your cord should be transferred over before continuing. Next you will want to pick up stitches in the location of pinkish/purple arrow on the image right above this direction. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella