Few things prompt knitters into action more than the arrival of a new baby. The opportunity to express our love and excitement with something that we’ve made by hand is just too tempting!
Equally tempting is our newest yarn, our soft and supple Cotton Pure. One hundred percent Pima cotton in an impressive array of 43 inspiring colors, I knew that it was time to think babies!
Using the homespun, woven look of Linen Stitch to craft the bodice, I designed our Clean + Simple Baby Dress with ease and comfort in mind. Constructed from the top down, this Dress knits up with little fuss, including a long stretch of satisfying stockinette for the skirt. It also opens in the back with three of Purl Soho’s delicate mother-of-pearl buttons, the perfect finishing touch!
Soft, cozy, and a breeze to launder, our Clean + Simple Baby dress is truly just that! -Kristy
Materials
- 1 (2, 2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Cotton Pure 100% Pima cotton. We used the color Freshwater Pearl. Note: For our size 0-6 month sample, we used almost all of 1 skein, so you may wish to purchase an extra skein to be on the safe side. Please review our Return policy here.
- US 5, 24-inch circular needles
- US 5, spare circular needles, any length
- Two different-color stitch markers
- Three 3/8-inch buttons. We used 4 Hole Ecru Small Mother of Pearl buttons
Gauge
24 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
28 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in Linen Stitch
Sizes
0-6 (6-12, 12-18) months
- Finished Chest Circumference: 18 (20 ¼, 22 ½) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 8 ½ (11, 12) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Shoulder: 13 (15 ¾, 17) inches
SAMPLE: Size 0-6 months is pictured here.
Notes
Linen Stitch Flat
Worked over an odd number of stitches…
Row 1 (right side): *K1, slip 1 (purlwise) with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): P1, *p1, slip 1 (purlwise) with yarn in back (wyib), repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern.
Linen Stitch in the Round
Worked over an odd number of stitches…
Round 1: *K1, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Round 2: *Slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1 wyif.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for pattern.
K1fbf (Knit one front, back, and front): Knit into the front of the stitch, but do not take the stitch off the left needle; knit into the back of the same stitch, still without taking the stitch off the left needle; then knit into the front of the same stitch and take it off the left needle. [2 stitches increased]
Pattern
Front
Right Front Shoulder
Cast 11 (11, 13) stitches onto 24-inch circular needles.
Do not join to work in the round. Work 8 rows in Linen Stitch Flat (see Notes), ending with a wrong side row.
Right Front Neck
Increase Row (right side): *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1fbf (see Notes). [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat.
Next Row (right side): Work in Linen Stitch Flat to end, turn the work so the wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 25 stitches. [40 (42, 44)]
Slide all stitches off the needles’ ends and onto the cable.
Cut yarn.
Left Front Shoulder
Note: As you work the Left Shoulder, the Right Shoulder stitches will cohabitate on the cable of the circular needles. Just ignore those stitches for now!
Cast 11 (11, 13) stitches onto the 24-inch circular needles.
Do not join to work in the round. Work 8 rows in Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a wrong side row.
Left Front Neck
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning with a wrong side row, work 4 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a right side row.
Do not cut yarn.
Front Yoke
Row 1 (wrong side): Work in Linen Stitch Flat across all stitches, thus joining the Left and Right Shoulders. [55 (59, 63) stitches]
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from cast-on edges, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Armholes
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, sl 1 wyif, k1fbf. [4 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 3) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [63 (71, 79) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat.
Cut yarn and place stitches on a piece of scrap yarn.
Back Right
Back Right Shoulder
With 24-inch circular needles and right side of Front Right Shoulder facing you, pick up and knit 11 (11, 13) stitches from cast-on edge.
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 7 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Back Right Neck
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Next Row (right side): Cable cast on 16 stitches, and then starting with the new stitches, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. [31 (33, 35) stitches]
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 ¾ (3 ½, 3 ½) inches from beginning of Back Right Shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.
Back Right Armhole
Increase Row (right side): *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1fbf. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 3) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [35 (39, 43) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Cut yarn and place stitches on spare needle.
Back Left
Back Left Shoulder
With 24-inch circular needles and right side of Front Left Shoulder facing you, pick up and knit 11 (11, 13) stitches from cast-on edge.
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 7 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Back Left Neck and Back Left Armhole
Increase Row (right side): *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1fbf. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Next Row (right side): Work Linen Stitch Flat to end, turn so wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 16 stitches. [31 (33, 35) stitches].
Beginning with a wrong side row, work even in Linen Stitch Flat for 4 (2, 4) rows, ending with a right side row.
**Buttonhole Row 1 (wrong side): P4, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, p1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, *p1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. [2 stitches bound off]
Buttonhole Row 2 (right side): Work in pattern to buttonhole gap (2 stitches remain in row), turn so wrong side of work is facing you, cable cast on 2 stitches, turn so right side is facing you, slip 1 wyif, k1. [2 stitches cast on]
Beginning with a wrong side row, work 8 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a right side row.
Repeat from ** once more, then work Buttonhole Rows 1 and 2 again (three total buttonholes made). AT THE SAME TIME, when armhole measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from beginning of Back Left Shoulder, shape Back Left Armhole as follows:
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 3) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [35 (39, 43) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Join Left and Right Backs
Next Row (right side): Knit to last 7 stitches of Left Back. With right side facing you, hold spare needle with 35 (39, 43) Right Back stitches behind last 7 stitches of Left Back. [K 1 stitch from Left Back together with 1 stitch from Right Back] 7 times, knit to end of Right Back stitches. [63 (71, 79) stitches]
Slip on-hold 63 (71, 79) Front stitches from waste yarn to spare needle.
Place marker for beginning of round, and with the Front’s right side facing you, join to Back by continuing with yarn attached to Back and knitting across 63 (71, 79) Front stitches, place marker for side, knit to end.
Skirt
Increase Round: [K1, m1r, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1l, k1, slip marker] 2 times. [4 stitches increased]
Next Round: Knit.
Repeat the last 2 rounds three more times, removing side marker on the last round. [142 (158, 174) stitches: 71 (79, 87) stitches for each Front and Back]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting every round, until piece measures 8 (10 ½, 11 ½) inches from Front and Backs join
Next Round: K2tog, knit to end. [141 (157, 173) stitches]
Work Linen Stitch in the Round (see Notes) for ½ inch.
Bind off all stitches.
Finish
Armhole Edgings
With right side of armhole facing and beginning at center of underarm, pick up 2 stitches using working yarn, *pass the second stitch on right needle over the first stitch, pick up 1 more stitch, repeat from * until you return to the center of underarm.
Repeat for other armhole.
Back and Neck Edging
With right side of Left Back facing you and beginning where Left and Right Backs were joined, work Back and Neck Edging as for Armhole Edging, working first up Left Back edge, then around Neck opening, and then down Right Back edge, ending where Backs were joined.
Last Touches
Sew on a button opposite each buttonhole. Weave in ends and block as desired.
PRINT
Your Notes for Linen Stitch Flat say: Worked over an odd number of stitches…
shouldn’t that be an EVEN number of stitches?
Hi Carol,
The linen stitch is worked on an odd number of stitches. When you first cast on for the right front shoulder, you cast on 11 or 13 stitches depending on the size. Thus alternating between a Purl and a knit stitch when you turn your work.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
I now have a gorgeous brand new grand daughter and would love to make this dress that I saved months and months ago. Is this dress loose enough to fit over a long sleeved t-shirt so it works like a jumper/dress? Love your patterns, so unique and very classic.
Hello Denise,
Thank you for your kind words and congratulations on the new addition to your family! This dress will be adorable as a jumper. If you are worried about it being to tight I would go up a size. This way there will be room to grow if its a little big.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Help!
I knit the fronts and backs and when I went to join them, found that the two back pieces are about 1/2″ different in length, but the side pieces line up with the sides of the front in terms of length. I’m sure this is a tension issue but how do I fix this? Do I have to start over? At the moment, I am making the shorter back bodice longer and hopefully blocking will tease out issues at the side.
Hello Emily,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m sorry to say that this sounds like a tension issue. Are all the measurements lining up, except for the larger back piece? I think that if you just re-knit the back piece that is to long things will line up better. I hope this is helpful. Please let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi there,
I’m knitting the skirt on this very sweet pattern (thank you for making such great patterns free) and I’m not sure where to measure from with this instruction:
“Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting every round, until piece measures 8 (10 ½, 11 ½) inches from Front and Backs join”
Do I measure from the shoulder seam or from the top of the skirt?
Thanks, Nicole
Hello Nicole,
Thank you for writing us! I’m so happy to hear how much you like this patten. For this section you will be measuring from the top of the skirt. At the top of the pattern there is a really helpful diagram that gives you all of the measurements for each part of the dress. I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Thanks Marilla,
I actually remembered it was there last night and worked out what I needed to do. A bit of a brain fade from me 😏 .
Thanks again, Nicole
I’ve worked then first two sections but now it’s time to join then and they don’t line up. I feel like there’s a step skipped that I’m not getting. Is there a video?
Hi Christina,
what section are you on? Are you joining for in the round? Or working the cable cast on for the yoke?
Thank you,
Melissa
Hi! I’m working on the front right shoulder and the left front shoulder. They don’t look the same at all. I was wondering if the left side is supposed to be 4 rows longer than the right side.
Hello Matlin,
Thank you for writing us! The Left and Right shoulders should be the same length. In what way do your two sides differ? Did you change anything when knitting either side? I hope I can help!
Warmly,
Marilla
HI There! I’ve read all the comments but still curious where the directions are for the buttonholes while making the front yoke etc… I honestly don’t have them in my printed version of the pattern. I’m a tad confused on this? can you tell me where to find it? sorry about this…
oh crud, I see it now…its on the back side? I think its just as cute or cuter in the front… my mistake..oops!
Hi There!
I’ve just finished this sweet little dress, and in the process of doing the finishing, but I’m a little confused about what happens once you’ve completed slipping the stitches for the finishing and you return to the point where you started. I still have a final stitch that has had a stitch slipped over it – how do I secure this last stitch so the slipped stitches don’t unravel?
Thank you for this beautiful pattern!
Hi Lena,
To secure the last stitch, you are going to take that stitch that has the slipped stitch over it, and pull it through this will secure it and keep it from unraveling.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Hi-
Is is possible
To clarify this direction?
Hi Jillian,
Thanks for writing in! When finishing the armholes, you will be picking up 2 stitches and then passing the first stitch over the second. Then you will pick up another stitch and pass the first stitch over the second, etc. At the end, you will have one stitch left on the needle. You will cut your yarn and take the end and pull it through that loop. You will then weave that end in.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I LOVE this jumper and am so excited about making two of them for my new twin granddaughters! But I’m confused about the skirt. I thought that the stockinette stitch was alternating rows of knit and purl. But the instructions say to knit every round. Shouldn’t there be a row of purls? Thank you so much!
HI Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! When knitting stockinette flat, you will alternate rows of knits and purls. However, when you knit stockinette in the round, you will knit every stitch! It does seem a bit like magic until you begin doing it and we find that it means that your project zooms through those stockinette in the round sections!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi,
Do you think this pattern is ok for an enthusiastic beginner?
Thanks!
Jillian
Hi Jillian,
Thanks for writing in! It’s hard to say without knowing what techniques you have attempted. This pattern is relatively simple if you are comfortable with increasing, minor seaming, textured stitch patterns and knitting in the round. The most difficult part of this pattern is joining the right and left back pieces to form the placket. I would suggest reading through the whole of the pattern and seeing if you feel comfortable with the techniques presented. I always support diving into a pattern with techniques that you have not yet tried. It’s the best way to learn!
Best,
Cassy
Thanks Cassy!
I’m comfortable with increasing and knitting in the round. I’m going to practice the textured pattern before starting the dress 🙂
Thanks!
I consider myself a pretty experienced knitter but am completely baffled by left front instructions. On which side of cable needle do I cast on so that I get a mirror image of the right side and it ends up looking like the photo? I note that both cast ons have the yarn on the right side which means they were both cast on identically but I can’t figure out for the life of me how to achieve that. If I cast on the left end of the cable needle the back of the left side is facing front; if I cast on the right side, that is not right either. I feel like I’m missing something simple here. Please help!
Hi Willa,
When you have finished the right front and turned the work around so the wrong side is facing you and then done the cable cast on you will slide that side onto the cable needle and just ignore it. You will then cast on for the left front on the left needle. After you have done your increases you will then incorporate the new stitches which will be on the wrong side.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
It worked fine. My problem was that after I cast on for the left front I just couldn’t see that this would work out. I still don’t understand how it happened, but it’s fine. Oh ye of little faith. Thanks for your prompt reply. I’ve already made two baby blankets from your site that came out great and were much loved,
.
The Purl Soho website is excellent especially as I’m experiencing knitting renaissance and discovering there is so much to learn. Is there a tutorial for the finishing slip stitch technique on the linen baby dress? Even with the photos and explanatory notes I am struggling to visualise what is involved. Many thanks.
Hello Anne,
Thank you for reaching out and such kind words! Unfortunately we do not currently have a video for this technique, though I will certainly pass along your suggestion. In the mean time, is there anything specific that you are struggling with that i could try and help with?
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi ANNE-
If I can add my 2 cents here – I also couldn’t figure out how to do the edging with knitting needles. I found using a size G crochet hook much simpler. Pick up your edge stitches as you would with knitting needles, then draw the last picked up stitch through the first stitch on the hook. I found that if the stitches are a little on the tight side it makes a nice even edge.
Lovely dress.
I’m just getting started and have a question.
On the front yoke instructions for the largest size, is this correct? Why wouldn’t the larger size go for about 4.5 or 5 inches?
“Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from cast-on edges, ending with a wrong side row.”
Seems like it will be shorter than the smallest size.
Hello Beth,
Thank you for reaching out! The instructions are correct. I know it sounds counterintuitive, but when combined with the other parts of the pattern it works out mathematically. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello! I am trying to figure out why the length to underarm for the smallest size is 3 3/4 inches, yet the larger sizes are 3 1/2. Is it correct (I’m thinking it was supposed to be 3 1/4)? Is it because babies are chubbier? Thanks!
Hello Lisa,
Thank you for reaching out! The reason for this is because there are more increase rows in the larger sizes. For the finished measurements of all the sizes check out the sizes diagram just above the pattern notes.
I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Just wanted to note for those who want to make this dress in a larger size: Play around with needle sizes and different weights of yarn. For a dress for my 3 yr-old niece, I followed the instructions for size 12m-18m, adjusting the length, using size 10 needles and Cascade Superwash Aran (just over four skeins because I added a Peter Pan collar). The dress is loose enough for her to wear as a jumper over a tee during cooler months. You might have to knit several gauge swatches, but it can be done.
Hi again,
Almost done and need a little help with finishing the armholes. Where and how exactly do you pick up the stitches? I’ve tried a few times and doesn’t seem to look right.
Thanks!
Jillian
Hi Jillian,
Thanks for writing in! This part can be a bit tricky! I rely heavily on the two pictures below the “Armhole Edging” heading. You can also check out our tutorial on picking up stitches, paying special attention to “Along a Vertical Edge: Stockinette Stitch”. This will not fully apply as you are picking up along a curved edge but I find that it helps tremendously!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
How would I enlarge this to fit a 3 year old? I want to make matching dresses for my granddaughters – one is a size 12 months now and the other is a 3T – but by the spring – I think they’ll be even bigger,
Hi Margi,
Thanks for writing in! We regrettably don’t have this pattern available in sizes other than those we list here, but your interest for more sizes is very helpful to us in planning items going forward, and we greatly appreciate your writing in!
Best,
Cassy
Hello,
I completed knitting (in Freshwater Pearl, smallest size) the Linen Stitch portion, but have now found out my grandchild will be a boy. Can you kindly provide any guidance in converting the rest of the project into a onesie? Any assistance will be appreciated. Thank you!
By the way, I love shopping in your Soho Store. The staff is always so friendly and helpful!
Hi Joan,
Thank you so much for your kind words! We are so glad that you have had a lovely time in our shop! Converting this pattern to a onesie will certainly require some trial and error. I am not sure what the best way to do this would be. You will need to divide the skirt to create legs and install some sort of closure in the legs. If you are up for a challenge, it could be totally worth it!
Best,
Cassy
Hi- love this dress. I’m finishing the arm holes and the back following directions but I’m not sure how to end the pick up bindoff since I’m not using additional yarn to bindoff?
Hello?
Was I supposed to pick up stitches using additional working yarn? The direction does not say that. So I picked up and slipped bond off left with one stitch an thecend w/0 working yarn to pull through as on normal bindoff.
Bummer.
I’ll figure it out. Been waiting 24 hours for reply.
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! For the armholes you will be using additional working yarn to pick up stitches! We certainly see how this can be a bit confusing and have added wording to clarify the directions. Our apologies for any confusion!
Best,
Cassy
I wonder if it’s possible to skip the linen stitch and do stockinette instead? Would it produce a similar-sized garment? I am looking to simplify because the linen stitch isn’t working out for me.
Hello Annie,
Thank you for reaching out! If you knit this in Stockinette stitch you will have issues with curling unless you put a border around the edge. You could also try Seed stitch or Garter stitch which are both reversible.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I made this wonderful little dress for my granddaughter last year and it looks adorable (I think). I would love to make it again in size 2 or 3. Any hope that larger sizes will be added to this pattern? Fingers crossed …
Hello Sherrill,
Thank you for reaching out! We do not have a larger version of this pattern, but I will certainly pass along your request!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello! Just started working on this and have a question about the front yoke. Instructions say:
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from cast-on edges, ending with a wrong side row.
Is it 3 1/2 inches from original cast on or from cable cast on that we did for the right shoulder? Seems as though it should be from the cable cast on but it doesn’t specify. Thank you!
Hello Katy,
Thank you for reaching out! You’ll measure from the top of the shoulders (and not the front neck cable cast-on edge). I hope this helps clarify! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
I made this dress twice. I found that the increases were worked better two stitches from the end, and every other row. The directions as mentioned left me with too many “nubs”. I made both the 0-6 and the 6-12. The 0-6 is just fitting my 7 month old and is adorable, however I find the larger one to be less successful due to proportions (even with my modifications). I find it so odd that I may undo it and make another 0-6. Did both in the cotton pure, absolutely love the yarn!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for the note! The thing that I love most about knitting is that we can all alter patterns to work best for us and share that experience! We are sorry to hear that the larger size was less successful for you. We’d love to know what challenges that you had with the larger size!
Best,
Cassy
I love this so much! I’ve finished the dress and am on to the sleeve edgings… Picking up every stitch seems to give me a bit of a ruffle look, which is cute, but not what I want. Can you please save me and make a video detailing the sleeve/neck finishing technique?
Watching your video on picking up stitches along a vertical edge is helpful. I think I’m just struggling reading the linen stitch especially around the curves where we increased. Help!
Hi Susan,
Unfortunately we do not have a video for this technique, but I think I can help! If you are familiar with crocheting at all, our finishing stitch is essentially a slip stitch worked with knitting needles instead of a crochet hook. I found it much easier to use a crochet hook the same size as my knitting needle (in this case, a size 5 knitting needle is equivalent to a F crochet hook) and work a slip stitch in each stitch around the openings. If you aren’t a crocheter, I would recommend trying a smaller knitting needle to work the edging stitch a bit tighter which will prevent the ruffled effect.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you! That’s exactly what I did and it worked beautifully.
Hello! I am a beginning knitter but am so proud to have almost finished this dress! I am at the point of finishing the armholes. For some reason, I just can’t figure out what to do! Can you give a little clarification on how to pick up the two stitches and then use the working yarn? Thanks so much.
Hi Angela,
Thanks for writing in! You are not alone in finding this step a bit tricky! You may find it helpful to check out our tutorial on picking up stitches, paying special attention to “Along a Vertical Edge: Stockinette Stitch” – essentially, you will be binding off each stitch as you pick them up.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Great pattern! Loved knitting it! One little thing; the font is pretty thin and light colored. After a while, it gets harder to read. Is there any way to get a hard-of-sight version with a larger font or bolded letters? Again, lovely pattern!
Hi Sofia,
Thank you for the kind words! We’re so glad you enjoyed our pattern! You can change the font size when printing or saving a PDF of our patterns. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
You can now increase the text size as desired and also delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%. You can then either print a copy or save a PDF with the larger text size.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love your patterns! This one is so beautiful, in its elegant simplicity (like all of your patterns!). I am expecting a grandson next month. Any suggestions on how to adapt this to a romper instead of a dress?
Hi Amy,
Thank you so much for the kind words! I would try adding some decreases at the bottom of the skirt section and then using Kitchener Stitch to seam shut the center third or so of the skirt. You could then pick up stitches around each leg and ad a bit of ribbing to add a bit more shaping.
I hope that helps! Let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi! Thank you so much for such a beautiful pattern!! Im currently knitting this for my baby (in the 0-6 size) and just want to confirm in the Front Yoke section that I should work the linen stitch flat until the piece measures 3 3/4 inches (rather than 3 1/2 inches for the other sizes)? Just seems strange to me that the smallest size would have a longer length here. Thank you in advance!!
Also – is it 3 3/4 inches from the cable cast on edge or from the cast on shoulders?
Hi Julia,
This is measured from the original cast on of the shoulders. 🙂
Best,
Julianna
Hi Julia,
Thanks for reaching out and for the kind words! This is correct – for the smallest size, you will be working fewer decrease rows than the other sizes, so although the yoke is longer initially, by the time all the decrease rows are finished the length is still shorter than it is for the other sizes.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’m so sorry to ask such a dumb question, but I can’t seem to find where the tops of the shoulders are joined. Could someone please point me to this part of the pattern? I must have skipped it, and re-reading it a few times hasn’t helped :/
Hello Nina,
Thank you for reaching out- there are no dumb questions! After you have completed knitting the Front Left and the Front Right sections of the pattern, you will pick up your stitches at the top for your front shoulders to knit the Back Left and the Back Right. It explains this under the “Back Right Shoulder” section.
I hope this clears things up for you and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Yes, thank you so much!
I’m having trouble with the button hole row
“**Buttonhole Row 1 (wrong side): P4, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, p1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, *p1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. [2 stitches bound off]”
How do you P4, and then pass 2nd stitch over first stitch?
I’m not getting it, can you clarify it for me please? Thank you very much.
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! After purling the first 4 stitches, you will be binding off the second to last of those stitches. In other words, you will purl 4, then use the left hand needle to grab the second stitch from the end of the right hand needle (which is the third stitch you purled) and pass it over the last stitch and off the needle.
I hope that helps! If you have any other questions please let us know!
Best,
Julianna
Love the pattern! I’ve just started the skirt and I’m absolutely confused by the increases.. I keep re-reading but I’m too in my brain to understand it 😭 , help please?
Hello Laura,
Thank you for writing- you are almost to the easy part of the pattern! Luckily we have a great video Tutorial for M1L and M1R that I find very helpful and I hope you do to!
I f you continue to have issues, just let us know!
-Marilla
Hi,
I too was a bit confused by the finishing edging technique, but I think the key is that you need to re-attach working yarn, and use this to create “new” stitches that are hooked into the picked up edge stitches. I only recently figured out that “picking up stitches” actually involves using new yarn to make new stitches attached to the picked up stitches – not directly knitting into (or in this case slipping) the existing stitches. Maybe this was immediately clear to everyone else but it wasn’t to me! Hope this helps.
I’m wondering if this has been attempted using a different type of yarn? I would like to consider using something softer and warmer. Any suggestions that would work well with the pattern? Thanks!
Hello Hannah,
Thank you for reaching out! This dress can be knit up in any sport weight yarn. I think it would be particularly beautiful in Mulberry Merino or Season Alpaca.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for creating this pattern and making it available for free. I’m a new knitter so I look for free patterns while learning new techniques. I’m on the back front shoulder where I need to pick up from cast on edge with right side facing you. When I pick up and then knit and then start the 7 row flat linen stitch starting and ending with WS, I find the transition is visible with a row of knit vs linen stitch. Is there a way to avoid that transition line being visible? Thank you!
Trupti
Hi Trupti,
Thanks for reaching out! While there will almost always be a visible line or seam after picking up stitches, it should be fairly subtle in this pattern. It sounds like you might not be picking up the stitches correctly since you should be able to begin with the wrong side row of the Linen Stitch Flat pattern immediately without knitting a row after picking up the stitches. I would suggest reviewing our tutorial on Picking Up Stitches to see if that helps!
Best of luck and thank you so much for the kind words!
Julianna
I have loved knitting this beautiful little dress. Can you tell me which method of binding off the stitches of the skirt is better – the Basic Bind Off or the Elizabeth Zimmerman Better Bind Off? I’ve started the Basic Bind Off and am not happy with it as the bound off stitches are not even. I’m going to wait for your reply before continuing. Thank you.
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! For this lovely little dress, we did use a basic pass over bind off but you can use any bind off that you find works best for you. It can take a little practice to get the tension correct with Elizabeth Zimmerman’s Better Bind Off so it might be worth trying it out on a swatch first to see if you like the look of it and then decide between the two!
Best,
Cassy
Any way this can be sized up for a girl’s dress/tunic (size 8-9)?
Hi Patrice,
Thanks for writing in! At present this dress is only available in infant and toddler sizes; however, I will pass your suggestion along to our design team!
Best,
Julianna
I can’t say it’s the most beautiful thing I’ve ever made, but this was a fun project for my little girl! Purl Soho patterns have consistently taught me new skills and helped me gain confidence in my knitting. The instructions made sense to my intermediate knitting brain. If it weren’t for your patterns, I might have stuck with flat, boring projects over the last decade. So thank you!
Excited to start this project. Have the yarn and the US 5 circular needle. Why do I need spare US5 circular needles? Isn’t one enough? Thanks.
Hello Elaine,
Thank you for this great question! You will need your spare needle to graft the front and back shoulders together. You could use either straights or circulars of any length for the process.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Wonderful pattern. I’m enjoying seeing this little dress come together and am just about ready to start the skirt. I may just be unfamiliar with knitting nomenclature, but what does “place marker for side,” mean? Am I just placing a marker to show which is the right side of the skirt and which is the wrong side? Thanks.
Hi Elaine,
Great question! This means to place a stitch marker on the needle between the indicated stitches. As you knit the rest of the dress, you will slip this marker every time you come to it so it stays floating between the same stitches on the needle. This marker indicates that it is the side “seam” of the dress, and later on in the pattern, you will be working some increases and using this marker to keep track of where to work them.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve done the first few rows of the skirt; joined the front to the back, did the first increase round (4 stitches increased), and completed one knit round. As I look at it, however, the stitches at the bottom of the righthand armhole in particular, are really loose and stretched. Do I have to rip back and do those rows again, or will this tighten up when I do the armhole finishing? If so, is there some tip or trick that I should know that will allow me to tighten up that spot so that those loose stitches vanish? Hope that makes sense. Many thanks.
Hi Elaine,
Thanks for reaching out! Is it possible that the loose stitches are attached to an end of yarn that needs to be woven in and can be used to tighten them up? The armhole finishing is minimal, but it will serve to cover up the very edge of the armhole, so it’s possible that will solve your problem. Before ripping back, I would recommend seeing if you can tighten or disguise these stitches using any available ends of yarn and try a bit of the armhole finishing. It’s hard to tell what exactly is causing the loose stitches without seeing your work so I don’t have any more specific tips, but hopefully one of those two things will help!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks for this very sweet baby dress.
Am knitting the Clean and Simple Baby Dress, at the armhole increase, you are at 63 stitches, it says increase 3 times, 4 stitches increased every time, for a total of 79 stitches. 63 + 12 =75 not 79.
Can you explain what to do? Thank you
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! After working the increase row the first time, you will repeat it three more times, so you will be working it a total of four times and increasing 16 stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I adore this dress and cannot wait to knit it for a dear friend’s baby girl. Would you please suggest which of your hat patterns would work well in Cotton Pure to match this sweet knit? I love baby sets! Thanks so much!!!!!
Hi Megan,
Thanks for reaching out – this dress is one of my favorite gifts to knit for good friends! I would try the Four Spokes Hat or Top-Down Ear Flap Hat – both are written for sport weight yarn and come in baby sizes and should look adorable with the dress!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! I am just about to try this pattern out. It will be the first time I knit a gauge swatch (after knitting a sweater for myself that can fit three people in the body 🙄). I didn’t want to wait to order the yarn so I bought yarn that is a 52% cotton and 48% acrylic blend. It’s a sport yarn and I’m curious if the pattern will still work. I’m not the best knitter so this question may be silly but thank you 🙂
Hi Reva,
Thanks for reaching out! Since we used a sport weight yarn for our pattern there is a very good chance that your yarn will work out to the correct gauge, but the only way to really find out will be to knit and measure your gauge swatch! To do so, you will need to cast on about 30 stitches and work in stockinette stitch for 4 to 5 inches. You can then count how many stitches are in the center four inches of your swatch. If you have too many stitches, you will need to knit a new swatch on a larger needle, and if you have too few stitches, you will need to try a smaller needle. Once your stitches per four inches match ours you will be good to go!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I had one other question regarding the gauge swatches. The pattern has Linen Stitch both flat and in the round. Is it sufficient if I knit this guage swatch flat or do I need to do two swatches (one flat and one in the round)? Thank you!
Hello Reva,
This is a great question! For the most accuracy I would knit up a swatch flat and in the round. I would knit my flat swatch first and then unravel it to knit up your swatch in the round.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Did you find during blocking that there was shrinkage due to the cotton?
Hi Tere,
Thanks for writing in! I have made several garments, including this dress, out of Cotton Pure and found that there was little to no shrinkage, even after machine washing and drying. It is always a good idea to wash and dry your gauge swatch the same way you intend to wash and dry the garment to make sure your gauge will still be correct, but unlike wool yarns, cotton doesn’t shrink significantly, although the gauge may tighten up just a bit.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you for this adorable pattern. I used straight needles to knit the yoke, then transferred to circular needles. This seemed easier for me.
I have a question on measurement under the section “front yoke”. Pattern states:
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from cast-on edges, ending with a wrong side row.
Is this the cast-on edge of the shoulder (where we cast on 11 stitches) or the cast on edge where we used a cable cast on to add 25 stitches? Thank you!
Hi Reva,
Thanks for reaching out! You should take this measurement from the original cast on edges at the shoulder.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Back Right Armhole says “Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an increase row every 4th row one (2, 3) more times.” But then for Back Left Armhole says “Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an increase row every 4th row one (2, 2) more times.”
This seems like a mistake. I’m making the largest size and assume I should do the increase section 3x on both sides, not 3x on the Right and 2x on the Left. Is that right?
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for reaching out! The first set of increases on the Back Left are actually shaping the neckline and match the increases in the Back Right Neck section. If you read a bit further, after you have worked the buttonholes, you will see another set of increases towards the end of this section that match the armhole increases.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello!
I’m on the section to join the right and left backs and I’m having trouble understanding how to line up the last seven stitches of the left back to the right back. Is there a video or some more information on this part? If not, I’d love some more written information on how to line this up, thank you!!
Hi Reva,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a video specifically for this step. However, you may find our Knit Hem video helpful, as the stitches are joined together in the same fashion as you would for a hem. First, you will knit across the Left Back until you are at the last seven stitches; then, holding the needle with the Right Back stitches behind and parallel to the needle holding these last seven stitches, you will join them together as shown in the Knit Hem video.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I’ve started knitting the simple baby dress. I have a simple question , I wanted to clarify. I’m starting the pattern… On the Front right shoulder after casting on stitches, the pattern says to work 8 rows in linen stitch flat. Does it actually mean working rows 1&2 , 3 times? I think I’m OVER thinking this step.
Thanks
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for reaching out! To work a total of eight rows, you will need to repeat rows 1 and 2 a total of four times, since the cast on does not count as a row.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve done my gauge swatch, but am not liking the selvedge. It looks like the tension isn’t the same. Should I make sure I make that first and last stitch on a row are tight? I tried slipping the first stitch, but it was “loopy”.
Any tips on a “cleaner” selvedge or should I not worry about it because there will be finishing edge along the armholes?
Thank you!
Hello Minda,
Thanks for reaching out! For this project there is no need to worry about a messy selvedge, because you will do an edging at the end! Once you have finished your dress you will pick up and cast off around all of your edges.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks so much for your response. One last question, I’m looking at the instructions for the linen stitch. The gauge instructions are over an even number of stitches, where in the pattern instructions the number of stitches are odd. Should I use an odd number of stitches for the gauge.
Hello Minda,
Thank you for reaching out! When knitting up your gauge swatch you will just be measuring the stitches in the middle of your swatch for optimal tension. To knit Linen stitch it must be an odd number I would reccomend casing on something like 31 or 33 stitches and measure the stitches.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla