Few things prompt knitters into action more than the arrival of a new baby. The opportunity to express our love and excitement with something that we’ve made by hand is just too tempting!
Equally tempting is our newest yarn, our soft and supple Cotton Pure. One hundred percent Pima cotton in an impressive array of 43 inspiring colors, I knew that it was time to think babies!
Using the homespun, woven look of Linen Stitch to craft the bodice, I designed our Clean + Simple Baby Dress with ease and comfort in mind. Constructed from the top down, this Dress knits up with little fuss, including a long stretch of satisfying stockinette for the skirt. It also opens in the back with three of Purl Soho’s delicate mother-of-pearl buttons, the perfect finishing touch!
Soft, cozy, and a breeze to launder, our Clean + Simple Baby dress is truly just that! -Kristy
Materials
- 1 (2, 2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Cotton Pure 100% Pima cotton. We used the color Freshwater Pearl. Note: For our size 0-6 month sample, we used almost all of 1 skein, so you may wish to purchase an extra skein to be on the safe side. Please review our Return policy here.
- US 5, 24-inch circular needles
- US 5, spare circular needles, any length
- Two different-color stitch markers
- Three 3/8-inch buttons. We used 4 Hole Ecru Small Mother of Pearl buttons
Gauge
24 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
28 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in Linen Stitch
Sizes
0-6 (6-12, 12-18) months
- Finished Chest Circumference: 18 (20 ¼, 22 ½) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 8 ½ (11, 12) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Shoulder: 13 (15 ¾, 17) inches
SAMPLE: Size 0-6 months is pictured here.
Notes
Linen Stitch Flat
Worked over an odd number of stitches…
Row 1 (right side): *K1, slip 1 (purlwise) with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): P1, *p1, slip 1 (purlwise) with yarn in back (wyib), repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern.
Linen Stitch in the Round
Worked over an odd number of stitches…
Round 1: *K1, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Round 2: *Slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1 wyif.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for pattern.
K1fbf (Knit one front, back, and front): Knit into the front of the stitch, but do not take the stitch off the left needle; knit into the back of the same stitch, still without taking the stitch off the left needle; then knit into the front of the same stitch and take it off the left needle. [2 stitches increased]
Pattern
Front
Right Front Shoulder
Cast 11 (11, 13) stitches onto 24-inch circular needles.
Do not join to work in the round. Work 8 rows in Linen Stitch Flat (see Notes), ending with a wrong side row.
Right Front Neck
Increase Row (right side): *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1fbf (see Notes). [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat.
Next Row (right side): Work in Linen Stitch Flat to end, turn the work so the wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 25 stitches. [40 (42, 44)]
Slide all stitches off the needles’ ends and onto the cable.
Cut yarn.
Left Front Shoulder
Note: As you work the Left Shoulder, the Right Shoulder stitches will cohabitate on the cable of the circular needles. Just ignore those stitches for now!
Cast 11 (11, 13) stitches onto the 24-inch circular needles.
Do not join to work in the round. Work 8 rows in Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a wrong side row.
Left Front Neck
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning with a wrong side row, work 4 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a right side row.
Do not cut yarn.
Front Yoke
Row 1 (wrong side): Work in Linen Stitch Flat across all stitches, thus joining the Left and Right Shoulders. [55 (59, 63) stitches]
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from cast-on edges, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Armholes
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, sl 1 wyif, k1fbf. [4 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 3) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [63 (71, 79) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat.
Cut yarn and place stitches on a piece of scrap yarn.
Back Right
Back Right Shoulder
With 24-inch circular needles and right side of Front Right Shoulder facing you, pick up and knit 11 (11, 13) stitches from cast-on edge.
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 7 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Back Right Neck
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Next Row (right side): Cable cast on 16 stitches, and then starting with the new stitches, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. [31 (33, 35) stitches]
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 ¾ (3 ½, 3 ½) inches from beginning of Back Right Shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.
Back Right Armhole
Increase Row (right side): *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1fbf. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 3) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [35 (39, 43) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Cut yarn and place stitches on spare needle.
Back Left
Back Left Shoulder
With 24-inch circular needles and right side of Front Left Shoulder facing you, pick up and knit 11 (11, 13) stitches from cast-on edge.
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 7 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Back Left Neck and Back Left Armhole
Increase Row (right side): *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1fbf. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Next Row (right side): Work Linen Stitch Flat to end, turn so wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 16 stitches. [31 (33, 35) stitches].
Beginning with a wrong side row, work even in Linen Stitch Flat for 4 (2, 4) rows, ending with a right side row.
**Buttonhole Row 1 (wrong side): P4, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, p1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, *p1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. [2 stitches bound off]
Buttonhole Row 2 (right side): Work in pattern to buttonhole gap (2 stitches remain in row), turn so wrong side of work is facing you, cable cast on 2 stitches, turn so right side is facing you, slip 1 wyif, k1. [2 stitches cast on]
Beginning with a wrong side row, work 8 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a right side row.
Repeat from ** once more, then work Buttonhole Rows 1 and 2 again (three total buttonholes made). AT THE SAME TIME, when armhole measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from beginning of Back Left Shoulder, shape Back Left Armhole as follows:
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 3) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [35 (39, 43) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Join Left and Right Backs
Next Row (right side): Knit to last 7 stitches of Left Back. With right side facing you, hold spare needle with 35 (39, 43) Right Back stitches behind last 7 stitches of Left Back. [K 1 stitch from Left Back together with 1 stitch from Right Back] 7 times, knit to end of Right Back stitches. [63 (71, 79) stitches]
Slip on-hold 63 (71, 79) Front stitches from waste yarn to spare needle.
Place marker for beginning of round, and with the Front’s right side facing you, join to Back by continuing with yarn attached to Back and knitting across 63 (71, 79) Front stitches, place marker for side, knit to end.
Skirt
Increase Round: [K1, m1r, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1l, k1, slip marker] 2 times. [4 stitches increased]
Next Round: Knit.
Repeat the last 2 rounds three more times, removing side marker on the last round. [142 (158, 174) stitches: 71 (79, 87) stitches for each Front and Back]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting every round, until piece measures 8 (10 ½, 11 ½) inches from Front and Backs join
Next Round: K2tog, knit to end. [141 (157, 173) stitches]
Work Linen Stitch in the Round (see Notes) for ½ inch.
Bind off all stitches.
Finish
Armhole Edgings
With right side of armhole facing and beginning at center of underarm, pick up 2 stitches, *pass the second stitch on right needle over the first stitch, pick up 1 more stitch, repeat from * until you return to the center of underarm.
Repeat for other armhole.
Back and Neck Edging
With right side of Left Back facing you and beginning where Left and Right Backs were joined, work Back and Neck Edging as for Armhole Edging, working first up Left Back edge, then around Neck opening, and then down Right Back edge, ending where Backs were joined.
Last Touches
Sew on a button opposite each buttonhole. Weave in ends and block as desired.
PRINT
Your Notes for Linen Stitch Flat say: Worked over an odd number of stitches…
shouldn’t that be an EVEN number of stitches?
Hi Carol,
The linen stitch is worked on an odd number of stitches. When you first cast on for the right front shoulder, you cast on 11 or 13 stitches depending on the size. Thus alternating between a Purl and a knit stitch when you turn your work.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
I now have a gorgeous brand new grand daughter and would love to make this dress that I saved months and months ago. Is this dress loose enough to fit over a long sleeved t-shirt so it works like a jumper/dress? Love your patterns, so unique and very classic.
Hello Denise,
Thank you for your kind words and congratulations on the new addition to your family! This dress will be adorable as a jumper. If you are worried about it being to tight I would go up a size. This way there will be room to grow if its a little big.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Help!
I knit the fronts and backs and when I went to join them, found that the two back pieces are about 1/2″ different in length, but the side pieces line up with the sides of the front in terms of length. I’m sure this is a tension issue but how do I fix this? Do I have to start over? At the moment, I am making the shorter back bodice longer and hopefully blocking will tease out issues at the side.
Hello Emily,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m sorry to say that this sounds like a tension issue. Are all the measurements lining up, except for the larger back piece? I think that if you just re-knit the back piece that is to long things will line up better. I hope this is helpful. Please let me know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi there,
I’m knitting the skirt on this very sweet pattern (thank you for making such great patterns free) and I’m not sure where to measure from with this instruction:
“Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting every round, until piece measures 8 (10 ½, 11 ½) inches from Front and Backs join”
Do I measure from the shoulder seam or from the top of the skirt?
Thanks, Nicole
Hello Nicole,
Thank you for writing us! I’m so happy to hear how much you like this patten. For this section you will be measuring from the top of the skirt. At the top of the pattern there is a really helpful diagram that gives you all of the measurements for each part of the dress. I hope this helps!
-Marilla
Thanks Marilla,
I actually remembered it was there last night and worked out what I needed to do. A bit of a brain fade from me 😏 .
Thanks again, Nicole
I’ve worked then first two sections but now it’s time to join then and they don’t line up. I feel like there’s a step skipped that I’m not getting. Is there a video?
Hi Christina,
what section are you on? Are you joining for in the round? Or working the cable cast on for the yoke?
Thank you,
Melissa
HI There! I’ve read all the comments but still curious where the directions are for the buttonholes while making the front yoke etc… I honestly don’t have them in my printed version of the pattern. I’m a tad confused on this? can you tell me where to find it? sorry about this…
oh crud, I see it now…its on the back side? I think its just as cute or cuter in the front… my mistake..oops!
Hi There!
I’ve just finished this sweet little dress, and in the process of doing the finishing, but I’m a little confused about what happens once you’ve completed slipping the stitches for the finishing and you return to the point where you started. I still have a final stitch that has had a stitch slipped over it – how do I secure this last stitch so the slipped stitches don’t unravel?
Thank you for this beautiful pattern!
Hi Lena,
To secure the last stitch, you are going to take that stitch that has the slipped stitch over it, and pull it through this will secure it and keep it from unraveling.
I hope this helps,
Melissa