Few things prompt knitters into action more than the arrival of a new baby. The opportunity to express our love and excitement with something that we’ve made by hand is just too tempting!
Equally tempting is our newest yarn, our soft and supple Cotton Pure. One hundred percent cotton in an impressive array of 43 inspiring colors, I knew that it was time to think babies!
Using the homespun, woven look of Linen Stitch to craft the bodice, I designed our Clean + Simple Baby Dress with ease and comfort in mind. Constructed from the top down, this Dress knits up with little fuss, including a long stretch of satisfying stockinette for the skirt. It also opens in the back with three of Purl Soho’s delicate mother-of-pearl buttons, the perfect finishing touch!
Soft, cozy, and a breeze to launder, our Clean + Simple Baby dress is truly just that! -Kristy
Materials
- 1 (2, 2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Cotton Pure 100% organically grown cotton. We used the color Freshwater Pearl. Note: For our size 0-6 month sample, we used almost all of 1 skein, so you may wish to purchase an extra skein to be on the safe side. Please review our Return policy here.
- US 5, 24-inch circular needles
- US 5, spare circular needles, any length
- Two different-color stitch markers
- Three 3/8-inch buttons. We used 4 Hole Ecru Small Mother of Pearl buttons
Gauge
24 stitches and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
28 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in Linen Stitch
Sizes
0-6 (6-12, 12-18) months
- Finished Chest Circumference: 18 (20 ¼, 22 ½) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 8 ½ (11, 12) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Shoulder: 13 (15 ¾, 17) inches
SAMPLE: Size 0-6 months is pictured here.
Notes
Linen Stitch Flat
Worked over an odd number of stitches…
Row 1 (right side): *K1, slip 1 (purlwise) with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): P1, *p1, slip 1 (purlwise) with yarn in back (wyib), repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for pattern.
Linen Stitch in the Round
Worked over an odd number of stitches…
Round 1: *K1, slip 1 with yarn in front (wyif), repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Round 2: *Slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, slip 1 wyif.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for pattern.
K1fbf (Knit one front, back, and front): Knit into the front of the stitch, but do not take the stitch off the left needle; knit into the back of the same stitch, still without taking the stitch off the left needle; then knit into the front of the same stitch and take it off the left needle. [2 stitches increased]
Pattern
Front
Right Front Shoulder
Cast 11 (11, 13) stitches onto 24-inch circular needles.
Do not join to work in the round. Work 8 rows in Linen Stitch Flat (see Notes), ending with a wrong side row.
Right Front Neck
Increase Row (right side): *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1fbf (see Notes). [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat.
Next Row (right side): Work in Linen Stitch Flat to end, turn the work so the wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 25 stitches. [40 (42, 44)]
Slide all stitches off the needles’ ends and onto the cable.
Cut yarn.
Left Front Shoulder
Note: As you work the Left Shoulder, the Right Shoulder stitches will cohabitate on the cable of the circular needles. Just ignore those stitches for now!
Cast 11 (11, 13) stitches onto the 24-inch circular needles.
Do not join to work in the round. Work 8 rows in Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a wrong side row.
Left Front Neck
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning with a wrong side row, work 4 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a right side row.
Do not cut yarn.
Front Yoke
Row 1 (wrong side): Work in Linen Stitch Flat across all stitches, thus joining the Left and Right Shoulders. [55 (59, 63) stitches]
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from cast-on edges, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Armholes
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, sl 1 wyif, k1fbf. [4 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 3) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [63 (71, 79) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat.
Cut yarn and place stitches on a piece of scrap yarn.
Back Right
Back Right Shoulder
With 24-inch circular needles and right side of Front Right Shoulder facing you, pick up and knit 11 (11, 13) stitches from cast-on edge.
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 7 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Back Right Neck
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Next Row (right side): Cable cast on 16 stitches, and then starting with the new stitches, *k1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. [31 (33, 35) stitches]
Work even in Linen Stitch Flat until piece measures 3 ¾ (3 ½, 3 ½) inches from beginning of Back Right Shoulder, ending with a wrong side row.
Back Right Armhole
Increase Row (right side): *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1fbf. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 3) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [35 (39, 43) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Cut yarn and place stitches on spare needle.
Back Left
Back Left Shoulder
With 24-inch circular needles and right side of Front Left Shoulder facing you, pick up and knit 11 (11, 13) stitches from cast-on edge.
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 7 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Back Left Neck and Back Left Armhole
Increase Row (right side): *K1, slip 1 wyif, repeat from * to last stitch, k1fbf. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 2) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [15 (17, 19) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Next Row (right side): Work Linen Stitch Flat to end, turn so wrong side is facing you, cable cast on 16 stitches. [31 (33, 35) stitches].
Beginning with a wrong side row, work even in Linen Stitch Flat for 4 (2, 4) rows, ending with a right side row.
**Buttonhole Row 1 (wrong side): P4, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, p1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, *p1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. [2 stitches bound off]
Buttonhole Row 2 (right side): Work in pattern to buttonhole gap (2 stitches remain in row), turn so wrong side of work is facing you, cable cast on 2 stitches, turn so right side is facing you, slip 1 wyif, k1. [2 stitches cast on]
Beginning with a wrong side row, work 8 rows even in Linen Stitch Flat, ending with a right side row.
Repeat from ** once more, then work Buttonhole Rows 1 and 2 again (three total buttonholes made). AT THE SAME TIME, when armhole measures 3 3/4 (3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches from beginning of Back Left Shoulder, shape Back Left Armhole as follows:
Increase Row (right side): K1fbf, *slip 1 wyif, k1, repeat from * to end. [2 stitches increased]
Continue in Linen Stitch Flat, while working an Increase Row every 4th row one (2, 3) more time(s) and while incorporating the new stitches into the pattern. [35 (39, 43) stitches]
Beginning and ending with a wrong side row, work 3 rows in Linen Stitch Flat.
Join Left and Right Backs
Next Row (right side): Knit to last 7 stitches of Left Back. With right side facing you, hold spare needle with 35 (39, 43) Right Back stitches behind last 7 stitches of Left Back. [K 1 stitch from Left Back together with 1 stitch from Right Back] 7 times, knit to end of Right Back stitches. [63 (71, 79) stitches]
Slip on-hold 63 (71, 79) Front stitches from waste yarn to spare needle.
Place marker for beginning of round, and with the Front’s right side facing you, join to Back by continuing with yarn attached to Back and knitting across 63 (71, 79) Front stitches, place marker for side, knit to end.
Skirt
Increase Round: [K1, m1r, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1l, k1, slip marker] 2 times. [4 stitches increased]
Next Round: Knit.
Repeat the last 2 rounds three more times, removing side marker on the last round. [142 (158, 174) stitches: 71 (79, 87) stitches for each Front and Back]
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting every round, until piece measures 8 (10 ½, 11 ½) inches from Front and Backs join
Next Round: K2tog, knit to end. [141 (157, 173) stitches]
Work Linen Stitch in the Round (see Notes) for ½ inch.
Bind off all stitches.
Finish
Armhole Edgings
With right side of armhole facing and beginning at center of underarm, pick up 2 stitches using working yarn, *pass the second stitch on right needle over the first stitch, pick up 1 more stitch, repeat from * until you return to the center of underarm.
Repeat for other armhole.
Back and Neck Edging
With right side of Left Back facing you and beginning where Left and Right Backs were joined, work Back and Neck Edging as for Armhole Edging, working first up Left Back edge, then around Neck opening, and then down Right Back edge, ending where Backs were joined.
Last Touches
Sew on a button opposite each buttonhole. Weave in ends and block as desired.
PRINT
Is the gauge written to accommodate washing? If I knit to gauge without pre laundering, will it still be the size intended after laundering? In other words, should I wash the yarn first and then knit to gauge?
Hi Katherine,
Thanks for reaching out! Our patterns are always written to the listed gauge, so to avoid surprises after you launder your garment the first time, it is always best practice to wash and block your gauge swatch the same way you intend to wash and block the finished garment. Washing the yarn before knitting a gauge swatch isn’t necessary, because even if you do wash your yarn and then knit and block a swatch, the yarn could still change in the final swatch, so I would instead recommend washing your swatch. In the case of Cotton Pure, we recommend machine washing and drying, so you can just toss it in the wash with your next load of clothes!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I’m on the back left neck and portion of the patten with the button holes and I don’t understand the portion of the instructions that say [2 stitches bound off] and [2 stitches cast on]? I’m I suppose to do something with 2 stitches? I also don’t understand how the side with the buttonholes will overlap on the other side without pulling from the left side over. Both the right and the left sides are the same amount of stitches so they meet in the middle . How do you get the left side to overlap the right side for buttons without throwing off one side. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! These notes are simply clarifying what you accomplished in that row. For instance, in Buttonhole Row 1, which reads, “P4, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, p1, pass second stitch on right needle over first stitch, *p1, slip 1 wyib, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2,” the end result is that you have bound off two stitches for the buttonhole. You don’t need to do anything extra when you read this note at the end of the row!
Although the two back pieces are the same number of stitches, when added up they have more stitches than the front to account for the button band overlap. The front piece before the armhole increases had 55 (59, 63) stitches, while the two backs added together are 62 (66, 70) stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve just started the skirt increases but am a bit puzzled. I have two markers on my needles. The instructions say to increase one stitch before each marker. That yields 2 stitches increased per round, not the 4 stated in the pattern. Have I missed something?
Thanks for clarifying.
Hi Madeline,
Thanks for reaching out! You should actually be increasing before and after each marker, for a total of four increases per row. The skirt increase round reads, “[K1, m1r, knit to 1 stitch before next marker, m1l, k1, slip marker] 2 times,” so you will be working a m1r after each marker and a m1l before each marker.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi-
I have a question about my increases on the right front shoulder.
After I knit the first increase row that ends in F1fbf I count the next row which is the wrong side row as 1 so on the 4th row I’m back on the right side for F1fbf at the end of the row . So there are 3 rows between increases. When I finished the increase the shaping look like steps, but in your pictures it looks like a nice curve. What am I doing wrong that I get steps and not a curve? Thanks for you help
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you are working the increases correctly! If you look at the pictures immediately below this section, you can see that the neck edge does look a bit uneven and ragged before adding the neck edging and blocking, which we have done in the finished pictures at the beginning of the pattern. I think you will be happy with how the neck looks once you have done all the finishing!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi there, thanks for this beautiful pattern! I’m really enjoying it so far. One thing i’m struggling with is whenever I do the increase rows (k1fbf), the edges end up looking jagged, like little step ladders, instead of the more smooth edges your images seem to have. Any advice on how to keep the increase rows looking smooth? Thanks!
Hi Hillary,
Thanks for writing in! It is quite normal for the edges of this dress to look as you describe immediately after working the increases. If you look at the pictures immediately below this section, you can see that the neck edge does look a bit uneven and ragged before adding the neck edging and blocking, which we have done in the finished pictures at the beginning of the pattern. I think you will be happy with how the neck looks once you have done all the finishing!
Best,
Julianna