Optic Blanket
Knitting a large blanket can be like climbing a mountain: some preparation, a lot of hard work, and at the very end, a tremendous sense of pride, accomplishment, and beauty!
Our Optic Blanket makes the climb as rewarding as the summit. You cleverly work each square in the round from the periphery inward, decreasing with simple central double decreases. And to begin each square, you pick up stitches along adjacent squares, saving you from the dreaded task of sewing everything together at the end!
We used Purl Soho’s incredibly soft and weighty Flax Down to knit our blanket, especially excited that it’s now available in six new colors! For high contrast drama, we chose rich Kettle Black paired with classic Heirloom White, but the results are equally stunning in all of the colors. We’ve included swatches of each below to help you choose!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Our Optic Blanket may be more ambitious hike than quick jaunt, but it promises a truly fulfilling journey and a spectacular destination! -Kristy
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Kristina McGowan. Click here to see even more of Kristina’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoOpticBlanket, and #PurlSohoFlaxDown. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Yarn A: 9 skeins of Purl Soho’s Flax Down, 43% baby alpaca, 42% extra fine merino, 15% linen. Each skein is 219 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1,971 yards required. We used Kettle Black.
- Yarn B: 7 skeins of Purl Soho’s Flax Down; approximately 1,533 yards required. We used Heirloom White.
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 7 double pointed needles
- 4 removable stitch markers, including one unique
Kettle Black
Kiln Red
Lavender Opal
Stonewall Gray
Rose Granite
Stillwater Blue
Gauge
20 stitches = 4 inches in garter stitch
Size
Finished dimensions: Approximately 48 inches wide x 56 inches long
Notes
For this blanket you work each square in the round, decreasing from the perimeter to the center. To attach the squares, you pick up stitches from an adjacent square (or two!) and work from there. Don’t worry, it’s easy and we explain everything!
S2kp (slip 2, knit 1, psso): Slip 2 stitches together knit wise wyib, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
To learn how to change colors for this blanket, check out our Stripes in the Round Tutorial.
Pattern
Square 1
With Yarn A, cast 164 stitches onto the circular needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches. Note: Do not place a marker when you join.
Round 1: With Yarn A, [k40, slip 1 purlwise, place removable stitch marker on slipped stitch (not on needle)] four times. Use the different color marker for the last marker you place. It indicates the end of the round.
Round 2: With Yarn B, [knit to next marked stitch, slip marked stitch purlwise wyib] four times.
Round 3: With Yarn B, [purl to next marked stitch, slip marked stitch purlwise wyib] four times.
Round 4: With Yarn A, [knit to one stitch before next marked stitch, remove stitch marker, s2kp (see Notes, above), place stitch marker on s2kp stitch] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 5: With Yarn A, [purl to one stitch before next marked stitch, remove stitch marker, s2kp, place stitch marker on s2kp stitch] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 2 – 5 eight more times, changing to double pointed needles when necessary. [20 stitches]
Work Rounds 2 – 4 one time. [12 stitches]
Final Round: With Yarn A, s2kp four times, removing stitch markers as you work. [4 stitches]
Cut yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail, and with a tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the remaining 4 stitches. Weave in the tail on the wrong side.
Square 1 is done!
Square 2
With Yarn A, cast 123 stitches onto the circular needles. Then with the right side of both the cast on and Square 1 facing you, use the left end of the needle to pick up 41 stitches purlwise along an edge of Square 1. [164 stitches] Note: For some tips on picking up, please visit our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Starting with Round 1, repeat Square 1 instructions to complete Square 2.
Squares 3-7
BLANKET DIAGRAM
Working to create a line of seven squares, continue by casting on 123 stitches and picking up 41 stitches along the top edge of each previous square (always use Yarn A for this). Make each square as instructed for Square 1. Work until you have completed all 7 squares.
Squares 8-14
For Square 8, continue as above, but pick up the 41 stitches along the left edge of Square 7, instead of at its top.
Orient the completed squares so that they are face up and Squares 1-7 are on the left.
For Square 9, cast 82 stitches onto the circular needles. Then, keeping the right side of the cast on facing you and using the left end of the needles, pick up 41 stitches purlwise along the top of Square 8, and then 41 stitches purlwise along the right side of Square 6. [164 stitches]
Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Starting with Round 1, repeat Square 1 instructions to complete Square 9.
Work Squares 10-14 as you did Square 9, casting on 82 stitches and then picking up 41 stitches from the top and right sides of each previous square.
Squares 15 and 16
Now orient the completed squares so that they face up and Squares 1-7 are again on the right. Cast on 123 stitches, pick up 41 stitches from the left side of Square 14, and make Square 15, as described above.
To attach Square 16, cast on 82 stitches, pick up 41 stitches purlwise from the left side of Square 13 and 41 stitches purlwise from the top of Square 15. Make the square as previously described.
Continue
Using this same logic and referring to the Blanket Diagram, continue to attach and work the remaining squares.
Finish
With a tapestry needle and Color A, sew closed any gaps that may remain at the squares’ intersections.
Weave in ends and block as desired.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
The blanket is just gorgeous! I might try a pillow with four or six squares first to see if I’m up for the challenge.
Carol b
i love the visual effects of this pattern … if i dont actually make the blanket, i will use the square motif for a stole or scarf … thankyou so much for all the free patterns!
I love this design. Unfortunately, I can’t use wool. Can you recommend a cotton?
Thank you!
Hi Angelika,
Thanks for writing! Blue Sky Alpaca’s Worsted Cotton (https://www.purlsoho.com/yarn/knitting-crochet/worsted-cotton.html) would be a great cotton to use for the blanket and you should be able to match the gauge of the pattern or come very close! Good luck and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
Hi, I have the mirasol Hap’i yarn.. would that be a good substitute too?
Hi Evelyn,
That substitution should definitely work! The recommended needle size for that yarn is slightly larger than what we used for our sample (we used a size 7 with our Flax Down and the Mirasol suggests a size 8) so you may have to work up a swatch or square and just check your gauge to determine the blanket’s final size, but overall the yarn should be a good fit for this project! Thanks for writing in and for your interest in the pattern!
Kristy
Superbe couverture ! Effet graphique très réussi. J’aime.
Merci pour ce tuto gratuit !
Holy moly, this is gorgeous!
I’ll HAVE to stitch up both a blanket and a scarf.
Blocks measure out to 8″ square, correct?
Hi Liz!
Thanks for writing in! And yes, that’s absolutely right, each square measures 8 inches x 8 inches!
Best,
Kristy
Stunning. I especially like that it is knit in 1 piece and the squares attached as the blanket is worked.
Second comment, sorry, could you also add a little note that says,: in the row with color B when you have to slip a stitch purlwise, you have to bring the yarn to the back, slip the stitch purlwise and then bring the yarn back to the front to purl again the next 40 stitches?
Hi Marthe,
We’ve added a note that the working yarn should be held in back when slipping stitches in Rounds 2 & 3! Thanks for taking the time to write in!
Kristy
Thanks for the details. In the same vein, in round 5 while purling, when we get to s2kp, I’m assuming we should bring the yarn to the back before slipping the stitches? I tried with wyif, s2, wyib, k then psso, but the end result does not look too good. Sorry in advance if this is a obvious thing, but I’d rather make sure. Thank you, and thank you for the awesome pattern! This might be the one to get me going on my first afghan (I’m doing a test run right now, not too concerned with mistakes :).
Hi Pascale,
Yes! Your working yarn should be held in back when slipping stitches for the s2kp. That’s exciting than this might be your first afghan! Please know that we’re always here to answer any questions you may have along the way! Thanks for writing in with this one!
Kristy
Wow, so pretty! I have 9 skeins of Worsted Twist that I was going to make a sweater with, but this would be even better. If I bought Flax Down as the Color B, would that play nicely together? From their stats it looks like they are similar in weight.
Hi Simone,
Combining the Worsted Twist with Flax Down would definitely work and sounds really beautiful! Best of luck and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
This is absolutely gorgeous! Just curious- would the Purl Worsted Twist yarn work if I wanted to substitute or is the blue sky alpaca yarn mentioned in an earlier comment a better substitute?
Hi Meghan,
Our Worsted Twist would also work beautifully, and the color combinations are endless! Thanks so much for writing in!
Kristy
I love it. Could it be made smaller say baby sized by knitting less squares? What squares would I leave out?
Hi Eileen and Starknitter,
The blanket would be easy to make smaller! Each square is 8 inches x 8 inches and so the length and width of your blanket would simply need to be a multiple of 8. You could try making the blanket 32″ x 32″, which would make a nice baby size, and adjust the pattern’s chart to make squares 1-4 only (instead of 1-7). You would connect Square 5 as we do Square 8, and Square 6 as we do Square 9, etc. for a total of 4 rows up and 4 rows across (16 squares altogether instead of 42). Please let us know if this makes sense or if you have any questions along the way! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Approximately how much yardage would you recommend for the above mentioned baby size?
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for writing in! The above mentioned baby size (16 squares) is roughly 40% the size of our finished blanket. For Color A you would need 4 skeins or approximately 775 yards and for color B you would need 3 skeins or approximately 625 yards. You will get more yardage than recommended using the 4 and 3 skeins but I always like to have 10% more yarn to account for personal gauge!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I would like to make a smaller edition of this for a baby blanket. What do you suggest for size?
Do you join the stitches in the round?
Hi Suzanne,
Yes, the squares are made by joining stitches to work on the round. You’ll cast on stitches and work from the periphery inward. I hope this helps clarify! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
Wonderful! Thank you.
Beautiful pattern, I really want to make this but am concerned about the weight of a big project. Will it work if I make the squares and sew them up at the end.
Ps I don’t mind seeing and the small squares could make a good travel to work project.
Hi Crissie,
It would absolutely work to make individual squares and sew them together at the end (instead of joining the squares as you go). You would simply repeat the instructions for Square 1. Thanks for writing and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
This pattern is GORGEOUS. I’m curious to know about changing colors every other row. Is there lots of weaving in threads after its done or do the color changes magically get carried along with the knitting?
Hi Lynda,
Thanks for writing. Please see our Stripes in the Round Tutorial for how to knit stripes. There are no ends because you are carrying the yarn up.
Best,
Adam
Amazing project! Any suggestions for a superwash alternative?
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for writing in! The best superwash alternative would be Anzula – For Better or Worsted in colors “black” and “au natural”. This yarn is so soft and is 100% machine washable.
Best,
Adam
Hi. What skill level would this be suitable for? I have very basic knitting skills and haven’t knitted for a long time, but would love to try something like this!
Hi Hayley,
Thanks for writing. This is considered an advanced beginner project. You need to know how to pick up stitches and do s2kp. These techniques are pretty easy to learn and you will end up doing them so many times that you’ll never forget how to do them. Good luck!
Best,
Adam
Do you recommend cutting the colours after each round or is it possible to carry them along and avoid so many darn-ins?
Hi Gillian,
Thanks for your question. You will be carrying the yarn up when changing colors, so there shouldn’t be a tail for every stripe. Good luck and happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
Is there anyway for you to send a written copy of this pattern to my physical address
I find no way to download it to save
Hi Roberta,
Thanks for writing us. If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
Best,
Adam
Beautiful. …again gorgeous subtle assemblage of shades….but could you precise the length required for the circular needles ? I am new to those and not sure which to use. Thank you .
Hi Claudie,
Thanks for contacting us. You will need a US 7, 16″ circular needle for this project. Good luck and happy knitting!
Best,
Adam
Hello! I am also new to knitting in the round, but have a US size 7 20″ circular needle—do you think it is going to cause me too many issues with this pattern? Should I get a 16″ instead? Thank you kindly for your help—and as others have said, thank you for sharing such a gorgeous pattern!
Hi Shelly,
A 20″ circular needle will work well! You will just need to switch to double pointed needles as you decrease down to the point when your stitches get too tight to use the circular. But yes! There is no need for you to go out and get a 16″ needle if you already have a 20″ to use! I hope this helps clarify! Please let us know if you have any other questions along the way! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
I´m in love with this blanket!
How to I get a paper copy of this pattern?
I do not have a printer.
I would gladly pay for a paper copy.
Hi Nat,
Thanks for writing us. We don’t provide paper copies of free patterns but if you do have access to a printer, I would have somebody print it for you. I also suggest making a pdf of the pattern and saving it on your phone. I hope this helps.
Best,
Adam
This is gorgeous! I am a little concerned about sewing up the gaps at the end of the project. Can this be done with a single, continuous length of yarn that is carried throughout the blanket to sew up all the gaps, or would you have to cut a new piece of yarn (and weave in all the associated ends) for each gap? I love to knit but HATE weaving in ends! Thanks so much for providing yet another amazing and beautiful free pattern.
Hi Dianne,
Most of the gaps that may remain at the squares’ intersections can be sewn together by using the ends that already exist after you create each of the squares. We definitely tried to keep the ends at a minimum! I hope this helps clarify and welcome any further questions you may have. Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Does anyone know how to print this with less pages then 19?
Hi Annette,
If you click on “Print” you should see an option at the top of the page to “Remove Images,” and if you select this option, you’ll be able to print the pattern in 4 pages. I hope this helps! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
The Kettle black flax down is out of stock – are you getting more of it?
Hi Rossana!
We do have plenty of the Kettle Black Flax Down in stock and the yarn should be available now for you to order online! Thank you for writing in to let us know!
Kristy
I have been thinking about this blanket since it was posted on IG this morning!! Can I substitute the yarn in the mosaic blanket for the yarn used in this pattern? I LOVE the super pink and white together!! Thank you for ALLLLL of your awesomeness!! ❤️
Hi Sarah,
That would be a beautiful combination and the pattern should also work very well with the substitution! I’m not sure what the pattern’s gauge would be with the alternate yarns, but you should be able to get quite close! Thanks so much for writing!
Kristy
So beautiful!! Thank you so much Purl Bee for sharing free, inspiring patterns!
I am having a stitch count issue. Do the number of stitches between each corner stitch stay the same for each section (corner, 20 st, corner 20 st, corner, 20 st. Corner 20 st)?
I figured it out. Each section does have the same number of stitches. On the decrease rounds the first section will have one extra stitch until the last section is completed using the extra stitch. I made a mistake part through my first square and tried to take it back but could not. Ripped it and started again, now all is well.
Hello
I´ll make a baby blanket with this pattern, and i would like to know which would be the number of stitches if i´ll do a smaller square, let´s say 6” ?
Thank you for your inspiring patterns
Isabel
Hi Isabel,
With a gauge os 20 stitches = 4 inches in garter stitch, if you wanted to try making the squares 6″ instead of 8″, you could cast on 124 stitches instead of 164, and for Round 1, k30 instead of k40. For Square 2, you would then cast on 93 stitches (instead of 123) and 31 stitches purlwise along an edge of Square 1, for a total of 124 stitches. For Square 9, you’d pick up 62 stitches (instead of 82), and 31 stitches purlwise along the top of Square 8, and 31 stitches purlwise along the right side of Square 6. I hope this helps! Let us know if you have questions along the way! Good luck and thanks for writing in,
Kristy
Thank you for your answer! Good luck for all your projects
I am the worst at joining in the round after casting on stitches (especially this many) – I always end up with a twist and having to start over. To keep this from happening I just knit the first few rows back and forth and join them when I can be a little surer of not having any twists. Would there be any modifications in the first few rows for the first square if I were to knit it this way?
Thanks!
Katie
Hi Katie,
Because of the slipped stitches used in the pattern and the way the decreases are worked (S2kp), working the first few rows back and forth instead of in rounds becomes difficult, especially with the last stitches in each round, and you really will need to have joined the stitches to work in the round in order for the pattern to work. Although avoiding twists can definitely be tricky, I found this clip that I hope might help you (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuMHgB_SoUQ). Thanks for writing in,
Kristy
how many skeins of each color for the baby blanket or crib size
Hi Lynn,
For a 32″ x 32″ blanket, you will need about 7 skeins of Kettle Black and 6 skeins of Heirloom White. I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Thanks for writing,
Kristy
I have a question regarding the decrease rounds, namely on the round5(A):at the end of the round we´ll have slip2 (the last stitches on the round) and the next st that we purl and then p2sso will be the first on the next round, won´t it? If we do it that way, then the colour at corner will be white(B) insted of blue (A).
Because the yarn i´m using is bulkier than yours, the squares are still to big. Is it possible to downsize , let´s say one inch?
Sorry to bother you again, and many thanks
Hi Isabel,
For the last s2kp in Round 5 you will not switch colors before the round is completed (you will work the entire round in Yarn A, Kettle Black). Although you will work the first stitch in the next round in order to complete the last s2kp in Round 5, the yarn you use will remain the same (Kettle Black). Please let us know if this helps clarify!
For sizing, what is the gauge of the yarn you are currently using? Once we know that we can try to help you figure out how to make the squares smaller!
Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Your answer is quite useful and i now understand where i went wrong. i´m using the #stitches in your answer may 12th (begin with 124st), and the yarn is Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran :
Gauge: 18.0 sts = 4 inches
Needle size: US 8 – 5mm
Thank you Kristy
Hi Isabel!
To decrease your squares by about an inch, you could try casting on 108 stitches and knitting 26 stitches (instead of 40) for Round 1 and proceeding according to the pattern from there. Good luck and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
Gorgeous pattern. Just wondering what cast on you recommend using? Thanks
Hi Jody,
A long-tail cast on should work well! (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/09/29/long-tail-cast-on/) Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Would a knitted cast on also work? Thx.
Jody
Hi Jody,
Yes, a knitted cast on would also work! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
I just started this pattern and am wondering if, when I get to the point of switching to double-pointed needles, will it make much difference if my dpn’s are size 6.5 rather than size 7? I’m hoping not to have to run out and buy a set of size 7 dpns! Thank you for the stunning pattern, I am so excited to see how it turns out!
Hi Romy,
Using size 6.5 dpns instead of 7 shouldn’t make much of a difference and especially if you’re using the same needles to work all of your squares and are keeping things consistent that way, you should be just fine! Good luck and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
I think the final round might be missing a “slip 1 purlwise” right before “s2kp four times.” If I don’t slip 1 first, the “X” that is created by the final round doesn’t match up with the larger “X” of the square. I screwed it up with the first square but was able to fix it for my second.
Hi Emily!
At the start of your final round, you should have 12 stitches, so that when you s2kp four times (which will decrease your stitch count by 8) you will then have four stitches left at the end of the round. If you started the round with more stitches, it could be throwing things off. You should not need to slip any additional stitches. I hope this helps clarify! Please let us know if you have any further questions, and thanks for taking the time to write in!
Kristy
The last round 4 ends with the s2kp, which leaves two stitches before the marked stitch, so you must do something with that first stitch to have the final round line up correctly. Emily is slipping that stitch, is that the best option?
Hi Sally,
For Round 4, with Yarn A, you will knit to one stitch before next marked stitch, not two. In order to work the following s2kp, you will need to remove the stitch marker. So you’ll knit to one stitch before the next marked stitch, remove the stitch marker, s2kp, and then place the stitch marker back on the s2kp stitch. I hope this helps clarify! Please let us know if you have any further questions and thanks for writing in with this one!
Kristy
Hi, I’m having the exact same issue as Emily. I had 12 stitches at the final row but the marked stitch was the third stitch from the beginning of the round. So doing the s2kp from the very beginning of the round is still resulting in the 4 remaining stitches but it is off from the X created from all the previous rows. The center now looks more circular than the previous rows.
The last round 4 ends on the s2kp as you indicate below but that leaves 2 stitches before the next marked stitch. So it seems like we should be doing something with that first stitch.
Hopefully this is making sense. I’m going to start on my second square but hoping to figure out the issue before I get to my next center
Thank you!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in and I’m sorry that this part of the pattern is giving you trouble! I think that somewhere in the pattern you might have offset by one stitch. I’d slip the stitch at the beginning of the round for now and see if you run into the same problem on the second square. If you do, please let me know. At the beginning of your second square, make sure to double count the stitches between your markers to make sure you are all aligned. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
First of all, THANK YOU for all of the gorgeous patterns! I had been looking for a blanket pattern for my son’s 40th birthday, and this is perfect! I’d like to make it in stockinette stitch (all knit in the round) instead of garter stitch. What adjustments would I need to make?
Thank you!
Debra
Hi Debra,
Thanks for writing! To make the blanket in stockinette stitch instead of garter, you will simply follow the pattern as currently written except you will knit every round. That means for Rounds 3 and 5 you will knit the stitches instead of purling them. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions along the way!
Kristy
Dying to knit this in Blue Sky cotton. How many skeins will I need — same number? Same needle size? Can’t wait!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for writing! In using the Blue Sky Cotton, you should be able to use the same needle size (7). The yardage for the Cotton is 150 yards per skein, while the Flax Down is slightly higher, 219 yards, so you’ll need a bit more yarn. Our sample took 3444 yards total to make (1911 yards of Color A and 1533 yards of Color B), so an estimate of the Cotton you will need would be 13 skeins of Color A and 10 skeins of Color B. I hope this helps! Best of luck with the blanket!
Kristy
One more question- could the squares be knit on two circulars, like socks. I don’t find knitting with 16″ circulars to be that comfortable so I’m looking for an alternative. Thanks.
Jody
Hi Jody,
Yes! Knitting with two longer circulars (instead of 16″ needles or a set of double pointed needles) would also work for this project, and would be a useful alternative if you don’t like using 16″ needles. Please let us know if you have any further questions! Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Dear purl Bee, thuis blanket is really georgious!! I tried one first square but found it a fuss to knit from outside to the inside. Is it possible to make the same squares but knitting from the inside to the outside, so not decreasing but increasing stitches? Thanks a lot in advance!
Hi Bernadette,
Although we chose to create the squares for this blanket by casting on and working from the outside inward, it wouldn’t be difficult to reverse the process and work from the center outward, increasing instead of decreasing just as you suggest. In her book, “Learn To Knit Afghan Book” (http://www.schoolhousepress.com/books/schoolhouse-press-titles/learn-to-knit-afghan-book.html) Barbara Walker includes instructions for this very square, (which she calls “Increasing Seamless Square”) and the book might be a great resource for you to explore. The decreases we used allowed us to create 4 solid lines of black, and I’m not sure what increases one might choose to achieve a similar look, but hopefully the book will be useful and help guide you in the right direction! Best of luck and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Thank you so much for your advise, Kristy! I’m going to check out this book you recommended!
Sorry for my late reply, I just discovered your answer (am new at PurlBee!).
Hello!
This is sucj a gorgeous pattern. Is it possible to provide a similar pattern for crochet?
Thanks 🙂
Hi Cassandra!
Thanks for writing and for letting us know that you’d like to see a crocheted version of this pattern! We will be sure to keep your suggestion in mind and appreciate your interest!
Kristy
I’m with Cassandra! A pattern in crochet would be terrific! I can knit with circular needles, but when it comes to DP’s, I’m lost!
Thanks so much
This looks fun. I think it would be attractive with a variety of colors. Keeping the pale yarn the same throughout, but using 5 or 6 different colors for the contrast. I suppose there could be a plan (diagonal stripes?), but random placement of the blocks would be interesting.
Hello,
If I wanted a larger blanket, could I keep going in the same fashion, adding a few more rows of squares?
Thanks.
Hi Caroline,
That’s absolutely right! The easiest way to make the blanket larger is to add additional squares, keeping in mind that each square adds 8″. I hope that this helps! Good luck and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
I may have done myself in. As each woman in my family marries, I make an afghan for them, their choice of color and stitch. My artist daughter LOVES the Optic Blanket and I would love to make it for her, but it seems so very daunting. Tell me I can do it!
Hi Jane,
What a beautiful tradition, and how lucky each woman in your family is to receive such a thoughtful gift! Although the Optic Blanket may seem daunting in scope (it’s one of those projects that looks far more complicated to make than it actually is!), I’m hopeful that once you complete your first square, you’ll realize that it’s far easier to work up than you might think. The first square should help you learn the construction and then it should be smooth sailing from there. Adding the squares on as you go also allows you leeway on the blanket’s final size. We made our sample 48 x 56, but you could easily make it smaller (any measurement divisible by 8, 40 x 48, etc. if that seems more manageable) We’d love to hear how it goes and wish you the best of luck! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
I’ve just started to knit this blanket for my son to take off to college with him in a bit over a year…leaving myself plenty of time! I have just finished the first square and am getting ready to start the second. The only way I can get it to look like the picture is to ‘pick up and knit’ rather than just ‘pick up’ sts on the first square. Is this correct? Otherwise the working yarn ends up in the wrong place. Thanks for your help.
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for writing! “Picking up stitches” (specifically as we do here for the Optic Blanket) is the same thing as “picking up and knitting” them. You’ll insert your needle into the stitch where you want to pick up, pull a loop through of your working yarn, and place it on your right needle. A useful tutorial for these steps can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2016/05/09/picking-up-stitches/. In rare instances a pattern might call for picking up stitches without using your working yarn, but that’s not case here. In this case, both terms indicate the same action. It’s a great question and I hope that this helps clarify! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Best,
Kristy
Did you guys update the pattern? It seems a little different than when I started.
Hi Edie,
No, the pattern hasn’t been updated or changed. Please let us know if you have any questions or need help with anything!
Kristy
What size yarn do I use? I tried using a US 9/5.5 mm sized yarn but my blanket doesn’t look the same as the picture. My blanket doesn’t really show the thicker black lines that you can see that separates each of the blocks. I’ve done the pattern correctly and it looks the same expect for that part where you connect it. I have also connected it correctly. I’m thinking maybe it’s the yarn but I’m not sure.
Hi Renee,
Thanks for contacting us! I’m glad you are tackling this pattern. I have a feeling that it might be your yarn, but also read over the pattern again and triple check that you are picking up the stitches in the same way. Maybe there is a difference in techniques? Let me know if you have any other questions.
Best of luck,
Adam
Yeah I haven’t been picking the stitches the same way. I’m going to try to restart that and if that doesn’t seem to work then I will just go get new yarn. Thank you so much and I love your patterns
Hi
I just remembered I knitted a scarf patterned by Purl Soho using the same yarn and it’s kind of fuzzy and the yarn stick to my clothes. Is this expected it? I lived in tropical country and I guess a cotton blanket will be sufficient but my husband loves this yarn.
Thanks
YS
Hi YS! The Flax Down is a beautiful blend of fibers and in the right conditions that blend can create a halo. The humidity of your climate might “enhance” that halo. Trying this blanket in cotton might be the perfect solution! Thanks for writing in!
Keith
I’m struggling a little with the dpns. Is there any reason why I couldn’t use the “magic circle” strategy? And I’m also guessing that since I knit a little bit on the loose side dropping to a size 6 wouldn’t be the end of the world…correct?
Thanks!
Hi Robin!
Great questions! If you are a loose knitter, you can certainly go down a needle size. Just be sure to do a gauge swatch if you want the blanket to be the precise measurements. However, if you are not worried about getting the exact measurements, go right ahead without!
You could also definitely use the magic loop technique in place of DPNs. Several of our customers have done exactly that!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Thank you!
Can someone please translate this to Dutch?
Thank you 😉
SQUARE 1
With Yarn A, cast 164 stitches onto the circular needles.
Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches. Note: Do not place a marker when you join.
Round 1: With Yarn A, [k40, slip 1 purlwise, place removable stitch marker on slipped stitch (not on needle)] four times. Use the different color marker for the last marker you place. It indicates the end of the round.
Round 2: With Yarn B, [knit to next marked stitch, slip marked stitch purlwise wyib] four times.
Round 3: With Yarn B, [purl to next marked stitch, slip marked stitch purlwise wyib] four times.
Round 4: With Yarn A, [knit to one stitch before next marked stitch, remove stitch marker, s2kp (see Notes, above), place stitch marker on s2kp stitch] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Round 5: With Yarn A, [purl to one stitch before next marked stitch, remove stitch marker, s2kp, place stitch marker on s2kp stitch] four times. [8 stitches decreased]
Hi Lut,
Thanks for writing in! At this time, we are only able to provide our pattern in English but we certainly appreciate your request!
Best,
Cassy
Hoi Lut 🙂
Dit is een mooie deken! Have you tried Google translate? Heeft u geprobeerd Google vertalen?
Here’s how they translate. Technical/specialized language doesn’t always work so great – but if you know that “wyib” means “met garen in de rug” then maybe it’ll be close enough. Succes!
Met Garen A, gegoten 164 steken op de rondbreinld.
Word lid voor het werken in de ronde, let daarbij goed op de steken niet verdraaien. Opmerking: Plaats geen marker als je lid wordt.
Ronde 1: met garen A, [K40, haal 1 averecht af, plaats verwijderbare steek teller op gleed steek (niet op de nld)] vier keer. Gebruik de andere kleur marker voor de laatste marker die u plaatst. Het geeft het einde van de ronde.
Ronde 2: met garen B, [breien naar de volgende gemarkeerde steek, slip gemarkeerde steek averecht af wyib] vier keer.
Ronde 3: met garen B, vier keer [av naar de volgende steek, slip gemarkeerde steek averecht af wyib gemarkeerd].
Round 4: met garen A, [brei een steek voor de volgende gemarkeerde steek, verwijderen steek marker, s2kp (zie Nota’s, hierboven), plaats steek marker op s2kp steek] vier keer. [8 steken af]
Ronde 5: Met Garen A, [averecht tot één steek voor de volgende gemarkeerde steek, verwijderen steek marker, s2kp, plaats steek marker op s2kp steek] vier keer. [8 steken af]
Bedankt Deb,
Yes, I’ve tried Google translation, but yours is better!
Thanks a lot…. now I can start!
Lut
I’m Portuguese and learned the instructions in English because their are so much easier then in any other language!
Can you make a video of 1 square (knitting)?
Hi Lut,
Thanks for your request! At the moment, we do not have the resources to make a video for this project but we will certainly keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
Alle rondes moeten toch “rechts” gebreid worden? (knit)
(All rounds (1 to 5) : knit ?
😀
Hi Lut,
Thank you for the question but I don’t quite understand. Could you please paste the instructions in english that you have a question on? I think that I will be able to explain in english and then you can Google translate the response. Thanks again!
-Adam
Hi Adam,
My problem is already solved 😀
I knitted 1 square – it was very difficult when I had changed to double pointed needles and s2kp until there were 10 stiches, the needles were too long to work with.
Also I had to put the stiches from 1 needle to the other to make a s2kp… is there an easier way to finish the square after you chanced to double pointed needles?
Lut
Hi Lut,
Glad all is settled! You could try shorter double points or you could look up a technique called magic loop. We don’t have a tutorial on magic loop on the website so you’ll probably want to go on YouTube to check it out. Best of luck!
-Adam
Can you please post a video for making the square. Thanks
Hi Shweta,
Thanks for writing in. At the moment we don’t have the resources to create a video for this but we do have a s2kp tutorial that could be helpful. Thanks!
-Adam
I love this blanket and I would love to knit by myself but I’m not really good at following the instructions, is there any video or tutorial that I can watch and learn how to knit this pattern?
Thanks!
Hi Selma,
Thanks for writing in! At present, there is not a video tutorial for this project. We will certainly keep your suggestion in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
Hypothetically, if someone was trying to make a knit version of Bear’s Rainbow Blanket, could this be one method of doing it? But not do stripes and instead an outside of white and an inside of color?
Thanks!
Sarah
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for the question! Yes, this is correct. You could knit a Bear’s-Blanket-style throw using this technique. Also, you can change up the stitch variation to add lace, cables, stockinette, seed, etc. However, I’d stick with the S2KP since this is the prettiest double decrease in my humble opinion. Best of luck on the project!
-Adam
Is there a good substitute yarn if we want the blanket for warm weather? I live in Miami and I’m thinking white and turquoise in a good light yarn would be a nice version of this blanket
Hi Mirim,
Thanks for writing in! Our Cotton Pure knits up at a similar gauge to Flax Down and I think would make a good substitution for warmer weather. The Cotton Oure dows have more yards per skein than the Flax Down so you will need only 8 skeins of the dark color and 6 skeins of the light color.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
This blanket is so beautiful! I might make this my first ever blanket project….
Hi there,
Is it possible to work the squares separately and then seam them together at the very end? I do a lot of my knitting on the go, and individual squares would be great to take with me and work on from time to time. Thanks!
Hi Wendy,
Yes, it’s totally possible! You’ll just do the first square over and over again until you have enough squares. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
I’m loving this pattern so far! I’m just having trouble with the picking up for the second square. The instructions say “with the right side of both the cast on and Square 1 facing you, use the left end of the needle to pick up 41 stitches purlwise along an edge of Square 1” but I’m not sure how to pick up purlwise with the right side facing me. I watched the purlwise tutorial in your picking up stitches post but am still a bit confused. Any guidance on this part would be much appreciated! Thanks so much for all that you do and your great patterns.
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! I hope that I can help! This blanket is executed in garter stitch so when watching the video for picking up purlwise, please note that you will not have a stockinette side but that stitches will still be picked up in the same fashion. You will place you needle from back to front through the fabric closest to the bind off edge and purl into the stitch by wrapping the working yarn around the needle counter-clockwise as if to purl; use the tip of the needle to pull that yarn through to the back of the fabric. This can be a bit confusing at first but give it a try and I am sure that you will master it!
I hope that this helps to clarify things! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
Cassy
I LOVE this pattern! Would it work to knit the squares in different colours? Thinking about paler pastel styles but then conscious the joins might look messy?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! We love seeing our patterns knit up in different color schemes! I think that it is a great idea! Because the join from square to square on this blanket is achieved by picking up stitches, it is quite neat. Just be sure that you are picking up stitches the same each time and the join should be lovely!
Best,
Cassy
this blanket is amazing! i’d like to knit it but i can’t translate technical words … is it possible to get it in french?
thanks so much
Hi Veronquelevy,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, our patterns are only available in English. I have used online dictionaries for translating knitting terms on patterns before for myself. I think that this one looks good for a variety of knitting terms from English to French although I cannot vouch for how accurate it is.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, can this pattern easily be changed for a king size bed? I was hoping for the finished size to be 56″x80″ Thanks!
Hi Karen,
Sure thing! You’ll just add more squares to get your desired length and width. Thanks!
-Adam
Hi
I want to knit this blanket with my sister, who lives in another country. Is it possible to knit each square separately and then join them? Or do you have another solution if we want to each knit half of the blanket and then put it together?
Thank you!
Hi Maria,
It’s totally possible to knit each square separately and seam it together later. You’ll just repeat the first square over and over again. Best of luck!
-Adam
I just knit my first square, and I’m so excited to keep working! One question- how did you get yours to be so square? Mine has square edges but is a bit “swirly” in the center. Did you block yours?? Can i block at the end, or should I do it as I go?
Hi Dewey,
Thanks for writing in. Also, I’m so glad you are excited about the pattern! I wouldn’t worry about the waviness of the square because it will block out nicely at the end of the project. Good luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Updating in case anybody else is having the same problem: I realized I had misread the pattern, so I was slipping the marked stitch and the stitch after it, then knitting the second stitch after the marked one and slipping. Oops! Tore out that square and started again, and this one is looking way better 🙂
Thanks for your awesome patterns! Cheers!
I am intrigued by this blanket, but would like it to be much larger (king sized). I think to make it 112″ x 96″ would take 58 skeins total ($1440). This is a little over budget, or so my husband says :). Any recommendations for another yarn (besides the Cotton Pure – I’d like to stick with a wool blend) that wouldn’t necessitate selling one of my children? Kudos on continuing to come up with amazing patterns – I’m a huge fan. And I’m sure the Flax Down is phenomenal…just wondering if it was the ONLY choice you offered/recommended.
Hi Melanie,
Thanks for writing us and so glad you like the pattern! I suggest you look at Cascade 220 Worsted as a substitute for Flax Down. Though it isn’t as soft as Flax Down, it is still a great yarn, thicker and more durable over time. Even more, it costs less than half the price of Flax Down and comes in an array of beautiful colors. I hope you’ll like it!
-Adam
Question on your instructions:
After completing round 5 you state:
Repeat rounds 2-5 eight more times…..(20 stitches)
By my count, if I repeat rounds 2-5 eight more times I am decreasing a total of 128 stitches as rows 4 and 5 utilize S2kp-a decrease of 8 stitches per round.
What did you mean by (20 stitches)?
Thanks.
Deborah
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for writing in an apologies for the delayed response! Your count is correct! After repeating rounds 2-5 8 more times for a total of 9 times, you will be down to 20 stitches. Rounds 4 and 5 decrease 8 stitches a piece. So 8 (stitches) x 2 (rounds) x 9 (times) = 144 stitches decreased. So from the original 164 stitches, you will be down to 20 stitches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am in love, LOVE, L-O-V-E with this blanket!! But, I’m not a knitter and am a fairly new crocheter. Any ideas of being able to try and replicate (as closely as possible, anyway) by crochet?
Seriously – it’s the most gorgeous blanket I’ve ever seen. I’ve looked at the picture a million times since I found it last week. 🙂
Thank you so much! Happy Valentine’s Day!
Hello Pamela!
Thank you so much for writing in! Hmm, this is tough. I think the best way to try to replicate the Optic Blanket for crochet would be to do some sort of variation on a Granny Square. We’ve got a great tutorial on crochet these right here, if you’re not familiar with them. Also, a quick internet search of “Black and White Granny Square” results in some inspiring variations to the Granny Square. I hope this helps, please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I’ve just knit my first two squares, joining them as I go, and it occurred to me that maybe there’s a way I could knit these in panels and then join the panels together when I’m done. That way it wouldn’t be as cumbersome to bring with me to knit on the go. But I’m not sure if the seams I join as I go along would match with the seams I sew after I finish all the squares. Can you recommend a way to join the panels so they have the same purled look to them as the ones I join as I go? Or should I just give up on this idea?
Thanks!
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly could knit this blanket in panels. However, I am not sure that you would be able to join them in a way that matches the joins between the individual squares. The most efficient way would be to crochet the panels together, though this would certainly look different than the joins noted in the pattern.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Why would you not discuss the jogless jog here and now? Who wants uneven stripes? There is nothing when I put it in the search box except a few things that have nothing further to offer. Very odd. I know it’s elsewhere and I’ll refresh my memory there, but personally, I’ve decided to simply avoid stripes in the round! Or shall I say “striped spirals”?
Hi Mimi,
Thanks for the comment! Due to the slipped stitches that create ridges at the corners, it is not necessary in this pattern to worry about the traditional jog that you would normally see in colorwork in the round. Here, the slipped stitches cover were the change would be from one color to another and create a jogless color transition!
Best,
Cassy
This is beautiful! I would love to add in some Spun Silk when I knit this up, but it’s a different weight than the Flax Down. What would be the best way to compensate for the difference?
Hi Jessica,
This sounds like a wonderful idea! I wouldn’t worry about changing needle size or adding another yarn to the silk. If you knit the silk on the same size needle as the flax down, you might get a really cool effect. The silk will be a little more open, while the Flax Down will be a normal gauge. I’d do a square to see if you like it. Let us know how it goes!
-Adam
Hello 🙂
A little question, please.
I’d like to make a blanket for a baby, using size 6.0 mm needles. I notice these square come out quite big. How many stitches would you say could be right for this kind of adjustment?
I was thinking about 100 (164-a number multiple of 8). Would you say this might work? 🙂
Thanks a lot for any help, Purl Bee
Lucio
Hi Lucio,
Thanks for writing us. I am not sure what number stitches to use for the cast on for at 6mm needle. Depending on your yarn and gauge you might just have to make a guess based on our pattern. You’ll definitely want to cast on in multiples of eight since you’ll be decreasing by that much around the square. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
One could splice cast on yarn end from previous square into working yarn and proceed with my instructions. Alternatively, start with picking up new stitches but leave long tail. On reverse side (second row of new square), use that long tail plus working yarn to long-tail cast-on remaining stitches. I plan to purl my row 2’s so I get garter ridges all the way to the edges of the squares. Wish me luck!
Why is round 1 of each square made up on knit stitches? Why not purl to complete the first color A garter ridge?
If you use long-tail cast on, you already have one knit round. Did you knit this with a backwards loop cast-on?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! At the joins for each square, we cast on using the long tail cast on method and the resulting look does not appear as stockinette but rather a bit more of a beefy garter ridge. This is because you are picking up stitches along that edge and that act creates a ridge rather than a flat stockinette section.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’m on the second column of squares now. How did you get your diagonals to lineup so neatly? Where do you pick up the corner stitch between squares? I just picked up 41 stitches along the edges, but it looks like I might have a jog in those nice diagonal lines now.
To clarify–I meant the inner corner between 3 squares when you are picking up the fourth square or the corner between 2 squares when you are picking up the third square. Maybe I should pick up an extra right in the corner and K2 tog the next round?
Hi Linda,
Thank you for writing in! I hope that I can help! For the second column of squares, we picked up 41 stitches along each of the completed sides evenly without picking up an additional stitch in the corner. You can certainly try picking up and immediately reducing an additional stitch in the corner. Getting the diagonals perfect can be a little tricky but that is where I find placing the stitch markers as you cast on and pick up rather than after can be hugely helpful in assuring that everything lines up nice and straight.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi there
I am using the cascade worsted and am up to square 4. I have used almost one ball of each colour. My calculation means I would need almost 20 balls, instead of the 16 I currently have to make the 42 squares.
It looks great so far and gauge seems good.
Do I need to worry? Or because I will be joining as I go I should have enough wool to complete the full project?
Thanks
Danielle
Hello Danielle,
Thanks for writing in. I’m thrilled to hear you project is going so well! I wouldn’t be to concerned about running out of yarn. If you are worried you can always get an extra skein of each color and not wind them, then if you don’t use them you an return them fore store credit towards your next project. That being said if your gauge is on point and you are using Cascade worsted instead of Flax Down I’m pretty confident you wont run out.
I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
-Marilla
I have 3 skeins of Cascade Eco in a nice cream and I am wondering how to adapt this for this yarn. Would it just be way too heavy? (We live in Vt). How much of the contrast color would I need, for example, needle size and would I make less squares?
Hi Missy,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly adapt this pattern to use a chunkier yarn. You will just need to select a needle size that works well with the yarn that you are choosing. I would start with the needle recommended by the manufacturer of the yarn and swatch. The squares will be larger but I think that the effect will remain the same! We used roughly 30% more of the main color than the contrast color for this blanket.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi there!
I adore this blanket and pattern- it’s gorgeous, intricate, and doesn’t just become a mindless knitting project because of all the colour switches and various stitching. So it’s lovely to make! I just wanted to double check that I was in fact following the pattern correctly, because I am finding that in the last couple of rounds (as I near the centre), the number of stitches between markers goes wonky and they don’t all match in number. It ends up looking okay, but I can’t imagine that one side is supposed to reduce to two, while another reduces to four, and another to five or six. I feel like maybe I am approaching my s2kp in a weird way? I’ll knit or purl until the last two stitches (one unmarked and one marked stitch), slip those two, and then knit the first stitch of the next row (each “row” being a section that ends in a marker. So, say if I am casting on and then place the markers, a section of 41 stitches would be a “row”). Then I will pass the two slipped stitches over the knit stitch, and mark that one. Feels almost like I steal a stitch from the following row. Particularly when working with double pointed needles. Is that correct?
Thank you so much and I appreciate all of the free patterns!
Hi Zazie,
Thanks for writing in! It sounds like you are doing things correctly. It create the decrease at the corner, you are using the stitch before the marked stitch and stitch after. This decreases the edges evenly. For the s2kp you will slip 2 stitches together knit wise with yarn in back, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over knit stitch and off right needle; so you are passing the slipped stitches (last stitch before the marked stitch and the marked stitch) over the knit stitch.
Towards the middle of the square, you will be following the same pattern and only at the very end, you remove the stitch markers. At this point, you will be decreasing across all of the stitches. We’d be happy to look at a picture if you need further assistance. Photos can be sent to [email protected]
Best,
Cassy
I knitted the first square just fine. However, I’m having lots of trouble with the second square. I find that it twists while joining and I have tried several times and tried to be very careful. I’m using the 16″ circular needles, but it seems like in the picture of joining the knitter must have been using longer needles because nothing is bunched up? Would longer needles help? Are there any tips or suggestions for joining this project without twisting?
Hi Shannon!
Sorry to hear that you’re having trouble! I think the best thing to do is try sizing up the cord length. Maybe trying a 20″ circular needle will help you.
I hope this helps!
Carly
Hi! I’ve been really enjoying knitting this blanket.
It’s quite different from the other projects that I’ve done thus far.
but towards the end of the pattern, once I put the stitches on dpns. I notice that my stitches (the sides) are uneven. (ex: having 13, 13, 11, 11 stitches on the sides (stitches in between the carried over color of yarn A)
I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong and I was hoping that there might be a solution to this?
Thank you for your time!
Hi Mel,
Thanks for writing in! I am not quite sure where things might have gone wrong. Because you are decreasing 8 stitches on each decrease round until the end, you should always have an even number of stitches between the slipped corner stitches. So it seems that perhaps you may have missed some decreases at a certain point. I would suggest tinking back until you get an even stitch count between the corner stitches and starting from there. I find that I can lose track sometimes when knitting in the round and find the different color stitch markers and frequent counting, help keep me on track.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’m knitting the first square and I’m having trouble with the diagonal rows that result from the slipped stitches. The diagonal in the last corner with the different color marker (where the rows start and end) looks great and the stitches are tight. But in the other three corners, the slipped stitches on the diagonals are really loose every other row, so much so that I can see color B through them and I can lift the slipped stitches up. I’m guessing it has something to do with the fact that in the last corner, I can tug the tail of color A and tighten the slipped stitch in rounds 2 and 3, but I cannot on the other corners. However, I tried keeping those stitches very tight on every round, and it didn’t help. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Hi Diana,
Thanks for writing in! I would suggest tightening up the stitches on either side of the corner as well as the corner stitch on each row. Additionally, I would suggest trying blocking the first square while on the needles to see if this relaxes your stitches and evens things out. To do so, fill a basin with warm water submerge the item in the water and leave for at least 15 minutes. Remove the item and gently squeeze out the water, being careful not to wring it. Lay it out on a dry towel, using your hands to push it into the desired finished shape and leave to dry.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
How do I make this blanket bigger?
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for writing in! As this lovely blanket is modular, you can easily make it longer by knitting 8 squares in a line before moving on to the next column. You could also knit more columns of squares to make the blanket wider.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
I’m a little stuck on square 1. I’ve completed rounds 1-5 and now I’m ready to repeat. When I begin round 6 (repeat round 2) with yarn B, is it correct that I won’t do a s2kp? If so, what stitch am slipping, since what I have marked are the slipped stitches from round 5?
Hello Heather,
Thank you for reaching out! For round 6 (repeat round 2) you will slip marked stitch purlwise wyib and not s2kp. There are no decrease stitches in round 6. I hope this clears things up and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Any suggestions for keeping the yarn organized as you get further into the blanket? I end up with it so twisted as I work circling inward on the squares. It was manageable in the beginning but now that I’m on the third column of squares it’s driving me nuts! This is the first time I’ve done anything bigger than a scarf, so I’d appreciate any tips and tricks!
Thanks!
Hell Jess,
Thank you for reaching out! I hear you, this is certainly not a travel project. To keep your yarn organized, I would recommend trying to keep each ball in its own zip loc and then making a whole in the bag that the yarn can be strung through. This will help prevent getting to twisted and tangled.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Probably a dumb question but I am having a moment:). Is the right side of the work the one that shows the “chain” of the s2kp?
Hi Lori,
Thanks for reaching out! Don’t worry, there’s no such thing as a dumb question and we’re always happy to help! You are correct, the right side will show the solid diagonal line created by the Sk2p.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Do you have a recommended stitch in order to seam two cast-on edges to each other in a neat, handsome manor? I’m 1/3rd the way through this blanket but have been knitting the squares individually so I can knit on the go?! Thanks!
Hi and thanks for writing in! We just published a new tutorial on Seaming Stockinette Stitch Horizontally that should be just right for putting these squares together! I would probably assemble the blanket in strips first, and then seam each strip together, to minimize ends to weave in when it is finished.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Do you have this pattern in crochet? Thanks.
Hello Marion,
Thank you for this lovely suggestion! While we do not currently have the resources to adapt this pattern, I will certainly pass along your request.
Happy crafting!
-Marilla
Help! I’m on my second try making square number one, and it is all lopsided! I have created a swirl instead of neat triangles. I found this comment below:
“Updating in case anybody else is having the same problem: I realized I had misread the pattern, so I was slipping the marked stitch and the stitch after it, then knitting the second stitch after the marked one and slipping. Oops! Tore out that square and started again, and this one is looking way better.”
Which is exactly what I did, so I am making the same mistake as they did, but that seems to be what the pattern says to do. The commenter doesn’t say what the correct method is. I keep reading the instructions over and I can’t figure out where I went wrong, or how to do it differently. What am I missing?!
Hi Adria,
I hope I can help clear this up! Round 4 reads, “[knit to one stitch before next marked stitch, remove stitch marker, s2kp (see Notes, above), place stitch marker on s2kp stitch] four times.” When working this row, you will knit until you are one stitch before the marked stitch and pause to remove the marker, which you should be able to do without slipping any stitches – it is pretty key to this pattern to make sure you are using a removable stitch marker and placing it through the loop of the stitch itself and not on the needle! You will then work the s2kp by inserting your right hand needle into the marked stitch and the one before it as if working a k2tog, slipping both stitches to the right hand needle together, knitting the following stitch, and finally passing the two slipped stitches over the knit stitch and off the needles. You will then replace the removable marker in the s2kp stitch.
I hope that helps! If you are still having problems please let us know!
Best,
Julianna
I’m allergic to wool – can’t work with it, can’t have it near my skin. Can anyone determine what yarn I could use for this pattern?
Thanks.
Hello Joan,
Thank you for reaching out! I think that either our Understory (Alpaca, Silk, and Yak) or Jade Sapphire 6ply.
I hope this helps and happy knitting,
Marilla
How do you place a marker on a stitch and not on the needle?
Hi Joyce,
Great question! To place a marker on the stitch, you will need to use an opening or removable stitch marker, such as Clover Locking Stitch Markers or Cocoknits Colored Opening Stitch Markers, and hook it through the stitch itself. You can then remove it and move it to a new stitch as needed.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello. Can you recommend another yarn that is suitable for this pattern that doesn’t contain any linen?
Thank you.
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend either Cashmere Merino Bloom or Brooklyn Tweed Arbor – both are linen free and knit up at the correct gauge for this blanket, though I would still knit a gauge swatch before beginning since you are substituting yarns!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
After working on this off and on for 2 years, I’m nearly done! And now I’m wondering how to block this piece – I’ve never done a project this big before. What are your recommendations?
Hi Caroline,
Thanks for reaching out! It can certainly be challenging to block something this big! Although you will soak and lay the blanket flat to dry as you would with any other knitted piece, the difficult part will be finding a large enough open space to let it dry for a day or two. It may help to either steam or spray block your blanket, since it will dry faster, so you can spread the blanket on your bed and be able to put it away when you are ready to go to bed; however, at some point, you will probably want to hand wash your blanket anyway. Another option would be to take your blanket to a dry cleaner who is familiar with hand knits and natural fibers, as they can both clean and block your blanket.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love this but I dont know how to knit can it be done by crocheting please can you do instructions in crochet. Thank you so much.
Hello Marion,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a crocheted version of this blanket but I will certainly pass along your suggestion!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hello,
what means wyib ?
For example: slip marked stitch purlwise wyib.
Thanks
Julie Masse
Hello Julia,
Thanks for reaching out! Wyib is an abbreviation of “with yarn in back”.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Wyib = with yarn in back?
Hi Jutta,
Thank you so much for catching this and I apologize for the confusion! You are correct, wyib stands for with yarn in back. I have corrected the comment above – thank you again for pointing this out to us!
Best,
Julianna
Would it be a disaster if I used a longer round needle then the 16″?
I’m having a tough time making sure there are no twists with the 17″!
Thanks, Robin
Hi Robin,
Great question! You could certainly start on a 24 inch needle if you prefer, but as you decrease, you will have to switch to double pointed needles sooner than you would if you started on 16 inch needles. Another option would be to start on 24 inch needles, switch to 16 inch needles when necessary, and then finish with double pointed needles.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have some beautiful merino in a slightly bulky weight (14-16 stitches per 4”). I assume I would reduce the number of stitches to cast on as 124, and thus the first round would be knit 30, slip 1. Will this work? Otherwise the squares are huge and the overall effect would be less, “optic.”
Hello ML,
Thank you for reaching out! This should work! You will need to reduce your cast on amount by a multiple of 8 and you are reducing your cast on by 40 stitches. You will need to take out some of the decrease rounds, and it might take some experimenting, but it should work!
Let us know how it goes and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Would like to start this project just wanted to know what length circular needles I need , and when you move to the centre of the work , do you need to change needles ?
Thanks
Hello Kim,
Thank you for reaching out! For this blanket we used US7 16″ circular needles as well as Double Pointed Needles.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am knitting squares without attaching, for travel purposes, am I correct in assuming that I should block each sq. separately, then attach? Also is there a pattern to follow when crocheting the squares together?
Hello Robin,
Thank you for reaching out! I would reccomend blocking each square out to measurements before attaching them. While we sadly do not have a tutorial for this technique, I would reccomend googling “Crocheting together knitted squares” and i’m sure you will find a tutorial.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Just one more question…I’m opting to knit squares, then attach. I was going to attempt a blocking today, I have searched all over to see what the expected measurements should be per square. I can see blocking is a very important part because several sqs. are not exactly the same size!!
Thanks,
Robin here again just found the chart for putting the blanket together, and see that the measurements are saying the squares should be 8″ X 8″..Well I will have a larger blanket, I think the majority of mine are 9″, which is fine for me.
Thanks again,
Robin
Hi, I’m having the same issue with this blanket as others have posted but I’m still without a solution. As I decrease rows, I’m ending up with an uneven number of stitches between my markers because at the end of the round, to decrease, you have to take a stitch from what is basically the beginning of the next round. I’ve knit the square up three times, have been particularly careful about not dropping/missing any decreases, and keep having the same problem. Is there a way to fix this? A way to cast on more stitches at the beginning?
Hello M,
Thank you for reaching out! While you do remove your marker at each decrease, your rows will continue to be an even number
and your marker stays on the same stitch. This is because each decrease you are decreasing by two stitches, one on either side of the stitch that has a marker on it. After repeating rounds 2-5 8 more times for a total of 9 times, you will be down to 20 stitches. Rounds 4 and 5 decrease 8 stitches a piece. So 8 (stitches) x 2 (rounds) x 9 (times) = 144 stitches decreased. So from the original 164 stitches, you will be down to 20 stitches.
I hope this makes sense and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi The best inspiration team!
I have been dreaming of the Optical Blanket and wanted to run by you an idea to make it in PurlSoho Good Wool… Thoughts?
I also wanted to make it larger (or much larger, maybe 90” X 90”), so would very much appreciate it if you could provide your used more or less exact per-square Flax Down yardage, for both yarn A & B, if possible, so I could re-calculate for my needed number of squares / Good Wool skeins… My assumption is that Good Wool & Flax Down weight is somewhat similar, but Good Wool is, probably, lighter and, therefore, longer, correct?…
Finally, I was thinking of using a two-step provisional cast on method starting each square with four 41-stitch waste yarn chains, which I’d be able to remove, when needed, connecting the open stitches invisibly… Maybe, it would make sense to remove one of the four chains from each square right after it is done, making the panels, and then remove the others to connect the complete panels and finish the entire perimeter edge… Anyway, this , I hope, would provide me with more (or much more :)) mobility for this promise-to-be-quite-long project… What do you think?
Any info, comment, suggestion, or correction would be highly appreciated!
Thank you!
Yuliya
Hello Yuliya,
Thank you for reaching out! Good Wool and Flax Down are very compatible in their gauge so Good Wool is a great alternative for this blanket. The difference in weight has to do with the fiber content and not the thickness of the yarn.
We used approximately 3460 yards total. For color A we used 1919 yards and for color B, 1541 yards.
You can certainly use a provisional cast on. This will just add a big step at the end, but, you are correct, also create a much more portable project. 🙂
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello! This is my first time knitting a blanket like this, and knitting with circular needles, so I’m having some difficulty with making the first square. Instead of the triangles, the slipped stitches have formed a spiral. I’m not quite sure what went wrong… the square is a little warped as well, but this might be due to the slipped stitches spiralling. Any advice as to what I did wrong and how to fix it?
Thank you for your time!
Hi Evelyn,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like your markers might have traveled while you were knitting the square or you worked the decreases in the wrong spot. You will need to use removable stitch markers and place them in the stitch itself, not on the needle, and when working the s2kp stitch, the two slipped stitches will be the marked stitch and the stitch to the right of the marked stitch. This should result in nice straight diagonal lines on the square!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Could a 47″ circular and using the magic loop technique work while making each square to negate the need to switch needles constantly?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, if you are familiar with the Magic Loop technique, it would be a fantastic way to knit each square on a single needle! I think you could even use a 40″ needle comfortably, which would be much easier to navigate than a 47″ needle in the first few rounds of the square. Please do let us know how it goes!
Best,
Julianna
Well Im confused. I read & reread the instructions multiple times & still do not understand why the squares are numbered. They are all knit using the same pattern so what am I misding? I have used circular needles alot. Also, I dont see how the 2 different colors are carried over to the next rows and still appear to be knit together? Guessl need to actually do it to find out.
The size appears to be more like a throw than a blanket, unless its a baby blanket, love the pattern though.
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the squares are all the same after the first row, there is some variation in how you get all the stitches on the needle. For instance, for Square 1, you will cast on all the stitches, but for Square 2, you will cast on most of the stitches and pick up the rest of the stitches from the previous square. As you follow along through the diagram, the rhythm of which stitches to pick up and which to cast on will start making sense! When knitting each square, you will alternate two rows of each color, but the special decreases will create the diagonal lines of just one color. It really is much easier to knit than it looks! Our throw came out to 48 inches wide by 56 inches long, which is pretty standard for a throw, but you could certainly make it larger if you would like by adding more squares!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thinking about making a smaller version (fewer squares) as a baby blanket — do you recommend flax down for easy washing (by hand is ok)?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, Flax Down can be gently hand washed and laid flat to dry!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
When casting on 123 stitches to add square 2 to square 1, what type of cast on are you using ,having a hard time wrapping my brain around casting on and then picking up., and having the working yarn in the correct place .A senior moment maybe lol .
Hello Ann,
Thank you for reaching out- this is a great question! With Yarn A, cast 123 stitches onto the circular needles. Then with the right side of both the cast on and Square 1 facing you, use the left end of the needle to pick up 41 stitches purlwise along an edge of Square 1. [164 stitches] The important thing here is that you know which side is the right side on your square 1, and that you are only picking up 41 stitches. For some more tips on how to pick up stitches, check out our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial!
Happy knitting and let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
I am also confused maybe because I am new to longtail caston. I thought the RS was the side facing me as I cast on the sts, so that when finished the working yarn is on the end of the needle I’m holding in my R hand. I also thought that the caston sts were the equivalent of a caston + a knit row.
That would mean that I am next to pick up purl sts from the right corner of the square, leaving me with a row that is 123 knit-st-equivalent followed by 41 purl sts. Or to get the sts to be all purls, should turn the needle around and use the tail end of the yarn to pick up the 41 purl sts from the square?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! When using long-tail cast on, if you are using the basic method (Basic Long Tail Cast On) when you join for working in the round the stitches should be ready to knit on the right side. The cast on for this pattern does not count as the first row, so once you cast on the 123 stitches onto the circular needles you will then use the working yarn (not the tail of the cast on) to pick up 41 stitches with the right needle purlwise (purlwise just means the orientation of how to pick up the stitches, but you are not purling the stitches, they should be knit) along an edge of Square 1. (for more info on picking up stitches please check out our Picking Up Stitches tutorial!)
once you have picked up the stitches, you will join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches, and from there you will go directly onto Round 1:
With Yarn A, [k40, slip 1 purlwise, place removable stitch marker on slipped stitch (not on needle)] four times. Use the different color marker for the last marker you place. It indicates the end of the round.
Keep in mind you will knit 40 as stated, not purl.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Hi Gianna, I’m still having trouble with this part you’re talking about, the beginning of square 2.
Please tell me if this is right or wrong:
Cast on 123, basic long tail.
I’m picking up 41 stitches along the top of edge of square 1 by continuing on beside the cast on.
I pick up by inserting through the fabric at the top right of the square, from back to front.
With working yarn now in front, loop around the needle, basically doing a purl stitch.
This brings a row of bumps forward from the picked up stitches, and purl bumps above that.
I’m using my right needle.
When I’m done picking up, that needle becomes my left needle.
Yes?
I hope that all makes sense to you. The process of doing it is in the details!
Thanks so much for your help and for reading through my process!
Hi Charlene,
That’s a really great write-up of the steps you’ll need to do to begin the second square! Everything is correct, except for the very last thing you wrote about the needles. Since you’ll be working in the round the entire time, your right needle will always be your right needle and your left needle will always be your left needle. Hope this helps clarify things, and please let me know if any other questions come up as you knit!
All the best,
Lili
I would love do download your free pattern but every time I try to print everything disappears. Can I only get the pattern if I purchase the yarn??? Thanks for your help
Hello Brenda,
Thank you for reaching out! This is very distressing, I’m sorry to hear that you are having this issue. None of our free patterns require any purchases. Is is possible that you have some sort of pop up blocker that could be interfering? Have you tried exiting out of your browser or restarting your computer?
I hope this is helpful and that you can get this issue cleared soon!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks Marilla, after changing my browser can now print. I’m looking forward to doing this blanket. Cheers Brenda
How do you think this would work as a throw pillow cover? I’m thinking around 16″ x 16″. Can you help me figure out how much yarn I’ll need? Thanks so much!
Hello Judith,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a fantastic Idea. Each square is 8″x8″ so you will need 4 square for one side of a 16″x16″ throw pillow. To make one side you will need one skein of each color in Flax Down, or Two of each for both sides of your pillow.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would like to make this as an Afghan or throw instead of a full size blanket. Could I just stop at row 5 or 6 on the vertical and row 33 or 34 on the horizontal?
Hi Patti,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, absolutely! You can easily customize the size of the blanket by knitting more or fewer squares, attaching them as you go in the same manner.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
can you please tell me how much yarn of each color you ended up buying to make afghan instead of blanket and what was ultimate size??
I am having the same problem as Brenda & also encountered it about a month ago as well. Thank you for your suggestions. But, any idea why this keeps happening?
Thanks,
Cynthia
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for reaching out! We haven’t experienced any problems on our end so it’s hard to say why you might be having trouble with the print function. Usually the culprit is a pop-up or ad blocker, and either disabling your ad blocker or using a different browser will solve the problem. If you are still unable to print the pattern, please reach out to us at [email protected]!
Best,
Julianna
Hi. Thanks for the beautiful pattern. Do you suggest a specific cast on for easily picking up the stitches?
Hi Irene,
Thanks for writing in! We used a Long Tail Cast On for this blanket and found that it worked out quite well!
Best,
Julianna
Working on this blanket now with no issues as the pattern is well written! I have been perusing the comments section and want to note that the Purl Bee staff have the patience of Saints!
Hi Janel,
You are too kind!! I’m so glad you are enjoying knitting the blanket, and thank you for sharing – I’ll be sure to pass your compliments along to the rest of the comments team!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi
Are the diagonal lines hand sewn on?
Hi Tina,
Great question! These lines are formed by the decreases that shape each square.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I have a question regarding Square 1 round 1 and round 2. In round 1 it states slip 1 purlwise (is that with the yarn in the front ?) I’m assuming it is because in round 2 it states specifically slip 1 purlwise with yarn in the back. Can you please confirm that for me.
Thank you
Melinda
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for reaching out! In this blanket, all slipped stitches should be slipped purlwise with the yarn in back, including on the first row. I apologize that it isn’t specified in the first row, but you will be working the slipped stitches the same way throughout the square.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
This is a super easy pattern to follow. Thank you for writing it so anyone could follow. I’m only on my third square and had no issues. If you know the techniques it’s a piece of cake.
Hi Ange,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I am so glad to hear that you are enjoying this pattern!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi! I’ve been eyeing this pattern for so long and I finally cast on last weekend! I’ve completed the first two squares no problem following the pattern and they look right, but instead of lying flat the squares keep ending up in a pyramid shape… Any suggestions on how to keep everything from going into a peak towards the center of each square? Do you think this is a tension issue? Thanks for the gorgeous pattern!
Hello Madeleine,
Thank you for reaching out! It does sound like a tension issue. Are you knitting at gauge? It sounds like your gauge might be to tight. Depending on how extreme the shape is, you could try steam blocking the square you have already knit up, just to see if you can eliminate this issue that way.
I hope this is helpful, but let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi! I came across this pattern today and thought it looked like a good summer project to keep me busy.
If I finish the pattern as written and decide later I wanted to make it larger could I just add additional squares around the outside edge by picking up the stitches per square as needed to adjust the length and/or width?
Very neat pattern and very excited to give it a try.
Thanks!
Hi Rob,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! Yes, you could certainly add another row or column of squares to make the blanket larger after the fact! It might take a bit of planning to figure out which stitches to pick up and which to cast on depending on where each square is added, but by the time you have knit the rest of the blanket, I’m sure the modular knitting method will be so familiar to you that it won’t be any trouble at all!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Question–I’m on square 15 and I’m picking up the 41 sts from previous square. I really need to pick up more like 43 sts to get all the sts without any pulling. What should I do?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! Since the first row of the square doesn’t include any increases, you can decrease any extra stitches in this row by working a few k2togs – just make sure that your slipped stitches align with each corner of the picked up stitches!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I just finished the first square and the black lines leading to the center don’t look like the photos. They’re very loose. One corner (at the beginning) looks tight and nice, but the other three have been loops where the black overlaps the white. Any tips for tightening it up?
Hi Rose,
Thanks for reaching out! If you look at our pictures showing different color combinations, you can see in the close-up pictures of the Kettle Black and Stillwater Blue squares that it is normal for a little bit of the white to peek through the diagonal lines, especially when you are using a high contrast color combination. If your lines are much looser, it’s possible that it is a gauge issue, since an overall looser gauge would lead to even looser slip stitches. I would suggest checking your gauge, and if you have substituted a different yarn, possibly going down a needle size even if that leads to a tighter gauge than ours, to see if it solves the problem.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Good evening! I am on square 29 and so I am treating it like square 15. When I follow the directions, keeping squares 1-7 on the right, this means I am starting at the bottom left of square 28, and cast up the blanket purlwise. When I continue with Round 1 (Yarn A K40, etc.) and continue with the pattern, it seems I’ve fastened the square backside up. I’ve paid close attention to ensuring I am not twisting the yarn/cast on, so I do not believe that to be my issue.
I’ve tried it twice now with the same result and so I wanted to write you for help so that I can do it correctly next time.
Any advice is appreciated! Thank you,
Maggie
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! It’s hard to say what exactly is going wrong without seeing your work, but you should be casting on 123 stitches first, and then, using the yarn attached to the casted on stitches, begin at the top left corner of Square 28, right where it meets Square 27, to pick up the 41 stitches, ending at the bottom left corner of the square. You should keep the right side of the blanket facing when you join your work into the round so that your square stays facing up.
I hope that clears things up, but if not, please send us an image of your work at [email protected] so we can troubleshoot this for you!
Best,
Julianna
Hi there. Thank you for sharing this pattern. I just added square 2 onto square 1, the squares themselves look great, but there’s a large ridge in the center seam between the two squares, I’m guessing from the way I picked up the stitches for square 2 (purlwise, per the instructions). I’m wondering is this the way it’s supposed to look, or did I do something wrong? In your pics, the seam between the squares looks flat and nice, but it’s kind of hard to see with the black yarn. Should I not have used the original cast on edge on square 1 to pick up the stitches for square 2 (should I have picked up from the first knit row instead of the cast on edge?)?
I’m also wondering, if I did all the squares separately and then joined them together later, what joining method would you recommend that would look nicest? 3 needle bind off?
Thanks!
Hi Kahreen,
Thanks for reaching out! It is indeed hard to see in black yarn, but there should be a ridge and a wider stripe of black between the two squares, so I think what you are describing sounds correct. If you look at the picture for Square 2, you can see that there is an extra purl ridge along the top of Square 1 after picking up the stitches, and Round 1 of Square 2 will also be knit in black, making the join area between the two squares even wider. It sounds like you are picking up the stitches in the right place!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi Kahreen,
Sorry I missed your second question! If you were to knit them separately, I would recommend using our Seaming Stockinette Stitch Horizontally tutorial to join them, as it would be quite a lot of extra work to pick up stitches and then work a three needle bind off.
Best,
Julianna
Hi Kahreen – Did you try knitting the squares separately and sewing them together? I am thinking about this too and wondering how it worked and how it looked? Thanks for letting me know.
Pam R
Hiya,
Should I get the 6 inch or 8 inch double pointed needles for this pattern?
Thanks!
Hope everyone is doing well.
Hi Sasha,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! The 6 inch double pointed needles should be fine for this pattern. We hope you’ll enjoy working on this blanket and watching it come together before your eyes- please let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
I seem to be having a trouble with gauge as diagonals are really long stitches so you can see the white underneath. I have a picture to share, any suggestions to tighten the V of the diagonals
Hi Veronica,
Thank you for reaching out! If you look at our pictures above showing different color options, you’ll see in the close-up pictures of the darker Kettle Black and Stillwater Blue squares that it is normal for a bit of the white to peek through the diagonals, especially when using high contrast color combinations. If your slipped stitches are significantly looser then it may be a gauge issue after all. I recommend double checking your gauge, and possibly switching to a smaller needle size to see if it helps. Don’t worry if your gauge ends up smaller than ours if it takes care of your loose stitches!
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
Gaby
Hi there!
I am wondering why the first row is knitted rather than purled (which seems like it would follow the repeat pattern). Is it because of the CO you used, or does it help to pick up stitches later?
With a long tail CO, knitting the first two rows makes the whole edge in stockinette instead of garter stitch – is that how it’s meant to be?
Thank you!
Hi Skye,
Thanks for reaching out! This extra row of knitting gives you a nice flat area of stockinette stitch to pick up stitches for the next square. It sounds like you understand the pattern correctly!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you for this glorious pattern!
I want to add an i-cord border to the finished blanket. Should I be picking up every stitch along the side edges as well as the cast on edges, or should the ratio be different for the sides?
Also, approximately how many skeins would I need to perform a 3 stitch (plus the pick up stitch) i-cord?
Your advice would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Cindy,
Thank you so much for the kind words! Because these squares are knit in the round, you will always be picking up from a cast on edge when working your attached i-cord, so you can always pick up one stitch per stitch on all sides of the blanket. Unfortunately, it’s really hard to say how much yarn you will need for this edging because we haven’t tried it, but I would plan on having at least one extra skein of Flax Down. If it turns out you don’t need it, any un-wound yarn can be returned for store credit!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi, I feel really dumb, 7 squares in and i just realized that I’ve been picking up stitches knitwise rather than purlwise! is there a way to fix it (even cosmetically?) or should i just continue knitwise as an artistic choice (lol)?
Hi Tatyana,
Oh no! Fortunately, as long as you pick up all the squares in the same manner, the blanket should look cohesive and I don’t think anyone will know it was supposed to be done differently except for you. If you would like to try adding some texture to the join between the squares, you could look up a technique called Surface Crochet. It won’t look like a garter or purl ridge, but it will match the diagonal lines on the squares and might give a nice effect.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello, I have just started and am on Square 1. I’m confused about the directions. I’m through “repeat rounds 2-5 eight more times” and had 20 stitches. But the following direction is “Work Rounds 2-4 one time [12 stitches] but that only brings me to 16 stitches because without Round 5 I’ve only decreased 4 stitches. Then the Final round is with Yarn A, which will give me two rows of Yarn A in a row. So what am I doing wrong??
Thank you!
Hi Meg,
Thanks for reaching out! Row 4 should decrease 8 total stitches since you will be working 4 double decreases, one at each marker, taking you from 20 stitches to 12 stitches. If you only ended up with 16 stitches, I would double check that you are working the s2kp correctly! After that, it is correct to work two rows of Yarn A so the center of the square is black.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, I just got onto square 2 and I think i picked up the stitches form square one correctly but it seems like one of the two diagonals of square 2 isn’t lining up with the one from square one.
I picked up between the first spot after and before the diagonal ends of square one(not picking up the corner stitches themselves). But with those being 41, aren’t the double decrease offset by one then, since the decrease would happen on the last stitch of these 41 and on one before the first? Do I need to pick up the stitches non symmetrical? I could still unravel this square but might just keep it and do the others correct then.
Thank you!
Hi Ilias,
Thanks for writing in! The 41 stitches should be picked up symmetrically across the edge of square one. If the diagonal lines aren’t matching up it is possible that the stitches were not symmetrical leading the lines to be off kilter. For the best result you may want to rip out that square and start by picking up the stitches again. The Picking Up Stitches Tutorial is a great resource to check out!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Gianna, thank you for your response! I kept going with this as it is kind of my first knitting project and it looks almost perfect and if its one of 36 squares I honestly don’t think anyone would notice haha. I will see how it goes with the next square and If I am getting the same issue I will certainly take it out and keep trying until I found out why.
I could swear though that I picked up the stitches symmetrically, I ended up having exactly 41 stitches to pick up by being exactly one after the corner and one before the next corner and I did pick up these kind of braided double loops from the cast on (and the connection does look great with there being a slim ridge between and the backside being perfectly flat). Does that sound right or should I actually be picking up the actual corner stitches on both side? Its brutal to explain haha but I hope that makes sense.
And thanks for the amazing pattern, speaks for itself that someone like me who never knitted before can do this 95% by just reading your pattern and using your helpful links and tutorials!
Hi Ilias,
Thank you for your kind words! We are always so glad to hear when people are happy with our patterns! I am also so glad things are looking good!
You should start picking up at the first stitch along the edge. In the Picking Up Stitches tutorial (1st video on the page) you can see the exact location of which stitch to start with!
I hope this helps and best of luck!!
Gianna
This is an ingenious design! Thank you. I am making it for my granddaughter for college next fall. I hope she picks a cold climate! She asked for pink and black. Very dramatic!
Please explain how, when working all squares after 1, a knitter will long tail cast on x# of stitches and then pick up 41 sts with the LEFT needle? The working yarn is attached to the last cast on stitch on the right needle.
If I turn, so the cast on stitches are at the top left corner of the last block and making the right needle the left needle, are we picking up from left to right?
How does one pick up with the left needle with the right side facing? Or honestly, how do you ever pick up with the left needle?
Hi Amy,
Thanks for reaching out! Picking up stitches with the left needle is not much different than picking up stitches with the right needle! This way it sets you up to join the work in the round! Our Picking Up Stitches tutorial is an excellent resource to use and will show you exactly how to pick up stitches purlwise like we do in this pattern!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
I commented before but am on the last square (one column less than the pattern since it’s for the college bound kid). I am left-handed and picking up stitches is a bear for me but I compensate, so my blankets may not look exactly like the pattern but it’s amazing. The one thing that I did not do well is inconsistently aligning the lines of the pattern when I picked up stitches. Thank you for this. I am moving onto another Purl Soho pattern that will make me crazy!
Please review your tutorials. That link is showing to pick up stitches with the right needle. Not a left needle like stated in the pattern. As a matter of fact none of those tutorials show how to pick up with the left needle.
Hi Amy,
Thanks for writing in! When picking up stitches, either with the left or right needle you pick them up the exact same way as we show in the tutorial! This pattern has you pick them up with the left needle in order for this stitch pattern to work correctly, but there is not a special technique to do that. It would be the same as if you were picking them up with the right needle. Thank you for expressing your interest in a left needle pick up stitches tutorial though, I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
For some reason I am confused about the first few rows of the squares. In the picture it looks like the very first, outermost stripe with the black has purl bumps somehow, and I’m confused how to get that with only a row of knit stitches! I used the long tail cast on, did you perhaps use a different cast on, or is it supposed to be a purl row first? Using the long tail cast on and doing all knit stitches on the first row makes it look like essentially two rows of stockinette. I don’t like the look of my squares because the outside edge doesn’t match with the rest of the garter square. I just cannot figure out where I’m going wrong! Please help!!
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! This blanket is knit with a Garter Stitch (knit on both sides) and the nature of that stitch, when knit correctly on both sides, the pattern should have rows of bumps! We used a long tail cast on for this pattern, so you should be fine with that, but you could also use Cable Cast On if you aren’t liking how it looks!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I was wondering does this optic blanket can be crocheted and if so where might I find the pattern ? Thanking you.
Hi Marion,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, at this time we do not have a crochet pattern available for this blanket. Thank you for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
All the best,
Gianna
My slip stitches are looking super loose, except for the ones at the end of the round. How can I fix this?
Hi Shirley,
Thanks for reaching out! My best suggestion is to try not to overstretch the slip stitches as best you can, you can also adjust this when you block the finished piece!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi
I live in San Diego and would love this in cotton. Can you help me with a conversion and is it even possible!
Hi Anne,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest using our yarn Cotton Pure, it is a sport weight compared to Flax Down which is a light worsted/dk weight. So it is a bit more fine than what the pattern is written for but could be very close! I would recommend working a gauge swatch with the US 7 needle that we used in the pattern and see how it compares, if it is a little too open for you liking you can then adjust the needle size and cast on from there!
All the best,
Gianna
Se puede hacer con agujas rectas?
Hi Margarita,
Thanks for reaching out! Due to the construction of this blanket, you will need circular needles in order to complete it! Unfortunately, straight needles would not work.
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Are the pick up stitches always purlwise all of the way through the pattern?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct you will pick up the stitches purlwise though out the blanket unless other wise noted!
Warmly,
Gianna
I just LoVE this design, thank you for the pattern. The flax down is shedding quite a bit on my lap as I work. Can you advise on care and washing once the project is complete? I’d love to use it as a lap blanket but fear it’s too linty/fuzzy for that use. Ideas welcomed!
Hi Jens,
Thank you for reaching out! It’s true, the Flax Down can shed quite a bit because of the linen fibers and the loose ply of the yarn. For washing, you’ll want to hand wash it and avoid agitating the piece too much while it’s wet. Because of how the yarn is plied, it will felt if it is too roughly handled. We have a helpful tutorial on handwashing knits right here.
I’d also strongly recommend using a sweater shaver to maintain it regualarly. That will help with the shedding and keep your finished blanket looking fresh and new! Our Sweater Rake is a good option; I also highly recommend the Gleener Ultimate Fuzz Remover.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
My name is Angel and I am very allergic to Wool is there a different kind of yarn that I can use? I have very sensitive skin, Psoriasis since I was 4 years old, and they found out that I am allergic to a lot of stuff and Wool is one of the biggest.
Hi Angel,
I’d be happy to suggest some alternative yarns for you to use that don’t contain wool! First, I’d recommend you take a look at our Understory, which is made of a blend of alpaca, yak, and silk fibers. Both alpaca and yak are hypoallergenic and are generally fine to use for people with wool allergies. Another good option would be our Morning, which is a blend of cotton and yak (and is also machine washable!) and works wonderfully for blankets!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Twisting the yarns together at the joins is a neat trick, except that I end up with a tangle and every row have to spend time undoing it. Is there a trick to avoid this issue at the moment of the twist?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in. I’d recommend moving the entire ball of yarn when twisting the yarns around each other. I know this is a little extra work, but it will definitely save you the time and stress of untangling the strands. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – I saw one comment in which someone asked about possibly knitting the squares separately and then sewing them together at the end which is what I would like to do to keep this project more portable. Do you know if anyone has actually tried or done this? And did the seaming stockinette horizontally method work? This will be my daughter’s college graduation blanket. Thank you so much!
Hi Pam,
That’s a great question! I hope someone who has done just that sees your comment and is able to let you know how it worked out. But in the meantime, I think that’s a great idea! I can’t see why seaming stockinette horizontally wouldn’t work, and I also want to suggest the whipstitch, which is my personal favorite seaming method. We demonstrate that technique in our Sewing Crocheted Squares Together tutorial, but it will absolutely work for the cast-on edge of knit squares.
All the best,
Lili
My diagonal lines are not all one color. What am I missing?
Hi Glenna,
Thanks for writing in. It sounds like you might not be slipping the marked stitches on Rounds 4 and/or 5! These stitches are important to slip, and not knit or purl, since that ensures that they remain in Yarn A, to be worked into the s2kp’s on the following rounds.
I hope that clears things up, but if not, please send us an image of your work at [email protected] so we can troubleshoot this for you!
All the best,
Lili
I would like to knit this beautiful blanket with a cotton yarn. Possibly a thicker cotton. Anything that you can recommend that would work with this pattern.
Thank you,
Hi Blimie!
Thank you for your question. Morning is a great cotton option for this blanket, and is used in many of our baby blanket patterns too, since it is so soft and cuddly! Morning is the same weight as Flax Down, but if you wanted something thicker, we have Tulip Cotton and Campo, which are both worsted weight yarns, and would be great alternatives for a thicker blanket!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi I purchased the morning yarn and tried making one square. Looks beautiful! Would you be able to tell me how many skeins I would need of each color?
Thanks for your help
Hello,
Thanks for reaching out! For an Optic Blanket knit in Morning, you will need 11 skeins (2,101 yds) for color A and 9 skeins (1,719 yds) for color B.
Happy knitting!
All the best,
Carly
Hello, I am referring to this message below tha was sent 3/20/22, I am having the same issue and can’t seem to figure out why this happens, in your picture of the blanket it looks like the stitches are not loose. Any suggenstions what I might be doing wrong?
“Rose says:I just finished the first square and the black lines leading to the center don’t look like the photos. They’re very loose. One corner (at the beginning) looks tight and nice, but the other three have been loops where the black overlaps the white. Any tips for tightening it up?”
Hi Chanie,
Thanks for writing in! If I remember correctly from our email correspondence a few months ago, you’re knitting this blanket in Morning? Because Morning is very different in terms of fiber content from the original yarn, you may be running into a gauge issue, like Julianna suggested in her reply to the other comment. While it’s definitely possible to achieve the same gauge as the pattern with Morning, it’s very common to need to go down a needle size when working with yarn with cotton in it. I’d suggest measuring your gauge to make sure that it’s correct, and if it’s not, swatching with different needles!
If you’re still finding that the stitches are too loose, I’d recommend sending a photo of your work to [email protected] so we can take a closer look!
All the best,
Lili
I love this blanket. I’ve made it once and am making it again. For some reason, I’m not getting the S2kp. I reach the stitch before the one with the marker, slip 2 (the one before the marker and the one with the maker on it) k1 then pass the 2
Slipped stitches over the single knit. Technically that is a 2stitch decrease but when I count the stitches in between the markers, I get a decrease of a total of 4 stitches not 8. What am I doing wrong? Thanks.
Hi Pat,
Thanks for reaching out! It does sound like you’re working the s2kp correctly, so I’m not sure why you’re only decreasing by 4 stitches on each round. Would you be able to send a photo of your work so far to [email protected]? We’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on that way!
All the best,
Lili
What other PS yarns would be the best fit for this pattern? I’m considering Good Wool and Knitting Yarn.
Hi Aileen,
Thank you for writing in! Knitting Yarn would work wonderfully for this project! You will need 9 skeins of color A and 7 skeins of color B to complete this project in Knitting Yarn. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thank you so much! How would Knitting Yarn change project gauge?
Hi Aileen,
You are very welcome! Since Knitting Yarn is comparable in weight and thickness to Flax Down, you will not need to make any modifications.
Would it make sense to get the “cone” of knitting yarn?
Hi Stephanie,
You could definitely get the cone for this project!
All the best,
Gavriella