Flying Geese Knit Baby Blanket
When Joelle challenged me to bring patchwork sensibilities to knitting, I immediately thought, Flying Geese. This traditional pattern of stacked triangles seemed to me ripe for engineering a patchwork “quilt” with yarn.
Rather than sewing each section together as I would with fabric and thread, I took a page from knitting’s book and worked a large-scale entrelac pattern. Picking up stitches for each new triangle eliminates tedious and messy seaming, while an Attached I-cord “binding” mimics a true patchwork quilt.
Choose your own combination using Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist and Alpaca Pure. We’ve chosen three beautiful springtime palettes that will inspire you to “quilt” with yarn! –Gina
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Gina Rockenwagner. Click here to see even more of Gina’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoFlyingGeeseKnitBabyBlanket, and #PurlSohoWorstedTwist. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 7 skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist, 100% merino wool. Each skein is 164 yards/ 100 grams.
- Yarn A: 2 skeins; approximately 328 yards required
- Yarn B: 1 skein; approximately 164 yards required
- Yarn C: 2 skeins; approximately 224 yards required
- Yarn D: 2 skeins; approximately 328 yards required
- US 8 (5 mm), 32-inch circular knitting needles
- Two US 8 double pointed needles
Shop our wonderful collection of aran + worsted-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Choose from 3 beautiful color combinations…
CHERRY BLOSSOM
- Yarn A: 3 skeins of Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure in Pink Grapefruit
- Yarn B: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist in Ballet Pink
- Yarn C: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist in Super Pink
- Yarn D: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist in Heirloom White
OVERALLS
- Yarn A: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist in Steel Blue
- Yarn B: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure in Artemisia
- Yarn C: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist in Faded Blue
- Yarn D: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist in Heirloom White
FINCH
- Yarn A: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist in Yellow Yellow
- Yarn B: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure in Oyster Gray
- Yarn C: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist in Yellow Zest
- Yarn D: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist in Heirloom White
Gauge
18 stitches and 36 rows (18 ridges) = 4 inches in garter stitch
Size
Finished Dimensions: approximately 24 x 36 inches
Note
This blanket is worked from the bottom up, one triangle at a time. Except for the Attached I-cord border, always use the circular needle.
Pattern
First Big Triangle
With Yarn A, cast on 110 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front (wyif), knit to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Slip 1 purlwise wyif, k1, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 6 stitches remain, ending with a Row 1. [6 stitches]
Next row (right side): Slip 1 purlwise wyif, ssk, k2tog, k1. [4 stitches]
Final row (wrong side): Ssk, k2tog. [2 stitches]
Turn so the right side is facing you.
Cut Yarn A.
Left Small Triangle
Join Yarn B by wrapping it around the needle and passing the two Yarn A stitches over.
Pick up one stitch from every slipped stitch on the left side of the Big Triangle.
Here’s how…
Dip the needle under the first V-shaped slipped stitch in an away-from you motion, as if you were knitting.
Wrap the yarn around the needle as if to knit.
Pull Yarn B under the slipped stitch to create a new stitch on the needle. You’ve just picked up your first stitch!
Repeat the above steps, picking up a stitch into each slipped stitch along the left hand side of the Big Triangle, ending with 56 total stitches.
Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
Increase Row (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise wyif, *yo, k3, repeat from * to last stitch, yo, k1. [75 stitches]
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 purlwise wyif, k1, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. NOTE: Knit every yarn over from the previous row through the back loop so it twists and does not form a hole. When the yarn over is part of the k2tog or ssk, then work the yarn over without twisting it. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 7 stitches remain, ending with Row 2.
NOTE: While repeating Rows 1 and 2, you no longer have to knit any stitches through the back loop. Just knit every stitch as you normally would.
Next Row (right side): Slip 1 purlwise wyif, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1. [5 stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): Repeat Row 2.
Next Row: Slip 1 wyif, k3tog, k1. [3 stitches]
Final Row: Slip 1 wyif, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over (psso). [1 stitch]
Cut Yarn B and pass the tail through the last stitch. Pull gently to secure.
Right Small Triangle
With the right side facing you and joining Yarn B to the bottom right hand corner of the Big Triangle, pick up 56 stitches along the right side of the Big Triangle.
Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
Repeat the instructions for the Left Small Triangle, from the Increase Row to the end.
You now have three triangles total: one Big Triangle and two Small Triangles.
Second Big Triangle
With the right side facing you, join Yarn C to the top right hand corner of the Right Small Triangle.
Pick up one stitch for every slipped stitch along the top edge. [78 stitches]
Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
Increase Row (wrong side): K8, *yo, k2, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, yo, k8. [110 stitches]
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 purlwise wyif, k1, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. NOTE: Knit every yarn over from the previous row through the back loop unless it is part of the k2tog or ssk. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until two stitches remain, ending with Row 2. [2 stitches]
Cut Yarn C. Turn so the right side of the work is facing you.
Second Set of Left and Right Small Triangles
Join Yarn D to the top point of the Second Big Triangle the same way you did after finishing the First Big Triangle.
Using Yarn D, repeat the steps of the Right and Left Small Triangles to make two more Small Triangles on either side of the Second Big Triangle.
Third Big Triangle
With the right side facing you, join Yarn A to the top right hand corner of the Right Small Triangle you just made.
Follow the steps for the Second Big Triangle to make the Third Big Triangle.
Third Set of Left and Right Small Triangles
Join Yarn D to the top point of the Third Big Triangle the same way you did after finishing the First and Second Big Triangles.
Using Yarn D, repeat the steps of the Right and Left Small Triangles to make two more Small Triangles on either side of the Third Big Triangle.
Knit the Border
With Yarn C and the two double pointed needles, work a 4-stitch Attached I-cord around the entire edge of the blanket. With the right side facing you, start at any point of the blanket’s edge and work counter clockwise.
For the long edges, pick up one stitch for every slipped edge stitch.
For the bottom and top edges, pick up 95 stitches. This means for the bottom row you’ll pick up one stitch for each cast-on stitch, skipping 15 evenly spaced stitches; and for the top edge, you’ll pick up one stitch for every slipped stitch, plus about 15 additional stitches, evenly spaced. (To pick up an additional stitch, insert the needle between the stitch you just picked up and the next slipped stitch.)
At each corner, work one row of Attached I-cord, then a row of unattached I-cord, and then another row of Attached I-cord.
When you’ve finished knitting the I-cord, graft or sew its two ends together.
Weave in the ends. Block gently and enjoy your Flying Geese Knit Baby Blanket!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
How would you adjust the pattern for a full size throw?
If you doubled the yarn and bought (2) kits instead of one I am assuming you would have enough yardage?
Hi Ellen! Thanks so much for writing us with your question.
I’d say it’s worth a shot to try and double the yarn to make this a throw size! I would caution you to get an extra skein of the two most used colors, just in case you run out. You can return un-used skeins for credit if you don’t end up needing them
My suggestion would be to make 2 blankets and sew them together. You could even have the geese going in two directions like a real flying geese quilt!
I hope you enjoy making the blanket! -Gina
LOVE LOVE LOVE this! It will be next on my list!
Thanks so much Adrienne! I’m so glad to hear you love the blanket. All my best, Gina
Beautiful! I love this, but unfortunately I am not a knitter. Any chance of getting a crochet version?
Hi Janelle, Thanks for writing us with your question! We don’t have plans to make this a crochet pattern at the moment, but that’s a wonderful idea and I’ll mention it at our next meeting. I never would have thought of that if you didn’t bring it up! So thank you. All my best – Gina
Hi there! Any chance there’s been a crochet version of this pattern made? I’m attempting to make it for my sister’s first baby but I’m struggling a little to convert it from knit to crochet. I’m making rows of dc but maybe I should be attempting sc instead?
Hi Daniela,
Thanks for writing in! At present there is no crochet version of this blanket available but we will certainly take your request into consideration for the future!
Best,
Cassy
I make blankets for babies and children that are given to those in need at our local food bank . Thank you for this free pattern, I’ll be using it for sure.
Hi Sherry, Thanks so much for writing us with your kind words, and thank you for all you do for those in need. I hope you enjoy this pattern! -Gina
love this blanket – and def putting it on my list for the next baby blanket I have to do.
I am trying to figure out the math. If the bottom of triangle one is cast on using 110 stitches and the 2nd large triangle is formed with 78 stitches picked up. Won’t this create unevenness?
I understand that the 78 stitches are being picked up from a selvedge edge so they may be a bit more spread out then the 110 that are cast on – however do they measure out to be equal? If not I imagine the blanket will be misshapen.
It is very possible I am missing something 🙂
Thanks for the pattern it is gorgeous!
Hi Kelly, Thanks for writing us with your question! I worked out the triangle math on this project so the blanket would be perfectly shaped and lay flat. The reason you pick up 78 stitches for the second big triangle is that picking up more stitches than you have slipped selvedge stitches makes a messy seam in the back. After you pick up, in the next row you increase to 110 stitches, so there is no unevenness. Thanks for checking all these numbers and keeping me honest. I try to only do something wacky in a pattern if it’s for a very good reason. In this case, I wanted the back of the blanket to look as neat as possible. Please let me know if that makes sense or if I can clarify more! And happy knitting! -Gina
what a refreshing way using the entrelac method
Do you end up with a lot of leftover yarn from these kits? Seems hard to believe that each one of those big triangles would take a whole skein of yarn.
Hi Mary Anne, Thanks for writing us! You will have some left over yarn from these kits. Yarns A and B will be used up almost entirely, but you will have about half a skein left over of yarns D and C. Please let me know if I can help with any other questions. -Gina
I’m confused by the instructions to “cut” the yarn when moving on to the next triangle…it seems like it will just all unravel! How long of a tail do you leave? Or do you not leave a tail at all?
Thanks
Hi Danae, Thanks for writing us with your question. I leave an 8 inch long tail when I cut the yarn. Then when the blanket is finished, you will weave in each end. Please let me know if this answers your question! Happy knitting – Gina
This is a really delightful design! It’s nice to see how it’s assembled. Will definitely want to make this one (or more) and to watch how many different design and color combinations will begin to “surface” on Ravelry. The design is everything and the yarn enhances that; simple but open to ever-so-many interpretations! Love it.
ct
Thanks so much Carol! I really appreciate your kind words. I’m also looking forward to seeing what combinations other knitters come up with.
How much yarn would you need for a king size blanket?
Hi Linda, For each small triangle you will need approximately 33 yards. For each large triangle you will need approximately 135 yards. Thanks for writing us! -Gina
Do you have an estimate of how much yarn was used for the i-cord?
Hi Jes! The I-cord uses approximately 30 yards of yarn. Hope this helps and thanks for writing!
I used cascade superwash sport and knitted it on a size 8 needle. I was able to squeeze 2 small triangles out of one skein (136 yards).
Hi! I just saw this and thought it’ll look perfect for a bathroom rug! 🙂 I think I’ll alter the size the make it red and white! Thanks for all your inspirational designs! I love them all!!
Absolutely love it, but why circular needles – which I hate?!
Hi Jill, thanks for writing us! Although we used circular needles for this project, it is knit flat, meaning back and forth in rows. You could certainly use straight needles for this project, except for the i-cord edge. Attached i-cord requires that you use circular or double pointed needles in order to slide the stitches to the other side of the needle to begin the next round. But the rest of the blanket would be fine to knit on straight needles. Please let me know if I can help with any other questions. -Gina
Absolutely love this. I love patterns with no seams and spend a lot of time making some patterns that way. Also love the attached i-cord edging, because I’m nearly at the end of a large blanket, wanting to finish with an i-cord, but couldn’t find how to do the corners. This one goes in the book of favourite patterns. Thank you.
Hi Peta, Thanks for your kind words! I’ve been knitting for over 10 years and this project is the first time I ever made corners in attached i-cord. It’s surprisingly simple! I owe Whitney one for teaching me how to do the corners! I, too, had no idea how to do them. All my best, Gina
I love this pattern. I do a lot of patchwork and used flying geese design. Looking forward to knitting flying geese.
Amei ! Mais um lindo projeto. Com certeza, será o próximo da minha lista.
I will be traveling and this looks like a great project to work on.
Is there a printer friendly PDF file for the pattern?
Hi Susan,
I agree, this would make a great travel project!
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
Thanks for writing us and please let me know if I can help with any other questions! -Gina
As always, yet another beautiful pattern. This blanket will be perfect for my next grandchild. I would love to visit your store, all your yarn looks so squishy and soft, crying out to be held.
Thank you for sharing your lovely patterns.
Oh, my! I love this! I have made many of your patterns, including the one I have in progress right now – the Colorblock Bias Blanket. I LOVE this flying geese pattern and look forward to hearing from others about doubling the size of this and other color combinations created. Thank you for sharing this with all of us!
is there any chance that you will come out with a video to demonstrate the stitches once you are turned and picking up the stitches?
Hi Linda! We don’t have plans to make a video tutorial of this technique at the moment, but we will definitely keep it in mind! In the meantime, if you have any specific questions, we’d love to help you out! Thanks for writing us. -Gina
To Ellen,
I would think making two going in different directions or even putting 4 of them together would be the most dramatic and more like a real quilt. I love this pattern and want to make it soon.
Thanks for the lovely patterns you give us for free.
Jan
Dear Jan and Ellen,
This is exactly what I would have made if I had had a couple more weeks to make this blanket! I think it would be absolutely gorgeous in a big size with the geese going in different directions. I hope someone makes this and sends us a picture! I would love to see this idea become a reality. Thanks for writing us! -Gina
I’d love to order the yarn for this pattern. Do you wind the skeins for mail order shipments?
Thank you!
Hi Gail, Thanks for writing us!
We certainly do wind yarn for mail order shipments. When you check out, make a note in the special instructions section saying which yarns you would like wound. Please be aware, though, that wound yarn is not returnable. I hope you enjoy this project! -Gina
Yet another beautiful pattern, this will be perfect for my next grandchild. I would love to visit your store, your yarn looks so soft and squishy, just waiting to be handled. Thanks so much for sharing your wonderful patterns.
Thank you Linda! We hope to meet you in our shop some day.
As someone who both quilts and knits, I love this! Do you have any recommendations for a machine-washable yarn substitution? I worry about asking new parents to hand-wash a baby blanket. Thanks for another great pattern!
Hi Dianne, Thanks for writing us with your question! That is a valid concern, but luckily we do offer superwash yarns that fit the bill! I would recommend
Tosh Merino
Anzula For Better or Worsted
Cascade Superwash 128
Please let me know if I can help with any other questions! -Gina
Wonderful–thanks for the suggestions. Looking forward to picking out some colors and getting started.
Thanks Dianne! Anytime!
I am using Plymouth Encore and it is knitting up beautifully.
Hi Gina,i am new in crocheting.may I have please the translation of the symbols ?(ssk,wyif ,k2tog and so forth)thank you
Hi Angela, Thanks for writing us!
SSK means “slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over” to decrease one stitch.
Wyif means “With yarn in front”, so when you slip the stitch you’ll hold the yarn in front.
K2tog means “knit two together” to decrease one stitch.
Please check out our knit tutorials section for more detailed explanations on how to do each of these.
Happy knitting! -Gina
The decrease mentioned here is a SKP, not a SSK – or am I completely mistaken.
By the way, would it be possible to knit this using stockinette stitch instead of garter stitch?
Hi Mia, Either decrease will work here! Because Stockinette stitch has a slightly different row to stitch gauge ratio than garter stitch, that will throw off the triangle math. So unfortunately it’s not possible to work the blanket as written in stockinette stitch. Thanks for writing us with your question! -Gina
Hi there — I just finished the first big triangle! I realized when I had six stitches left the pattern didn’t quite hold. I improvised but your example looks better — what would you recommend doing when you get down to six stitches? Thanks!
Hi Emily, congrats on finishing the first part of this project! Thanks so much for pointing out that slight hiccup in the pattern. I’ve corrected the end of the big triangle section and the end of the small triangle section as well. Check it out! Let me know if you have anymore questions on this. Happy knitting! -Gina
Thanks, Gina! That solved it!
Thanks Emily! I’m glad to hear that!
Would you block this blanket triangle by triangle? Or would you block it once it’s completely finished?
Hi Olivia! I blocked the blanket when it was completely finished. Thanks so much for writing us with your question! -Gina
I love the design, but I think that there is an error in the instructions. When I got to the second large triangle, it was only possible to pick up 76 stitches along the top and consequently, for the increase row I had to K5 *yo, K2* to last 5 stitches, yo, K5.
Is this possible, or did I just mess up somewhere?
Hi Erin! Thanks for writing us. Sometimes when you are picking up stitches, you have to fudge it a little bit to get the correct number. In your case, you could pick up an extra stitch at the beginning and end of the row. The way you altered the increase row is a great fix, a very nice alternative. If the pick up row is off by 1 or 2 stitches, that’s totally fine as long as you compensate in the next row, as you did. It doesn’t make a difference to the finished blanket. I hope that answered your question! Please let me know if I can help with any more questions! -Gina
Hi there, please can you tell me the number of stitches to use to make the Flying Geese Triangles smaller? I want to make a bigger blanket but with smaller triangles. Is this possible? Thanks Tami
Hi Tami, How about picking up half the number of stitches for each triangle? That will make significantly smaller triangles, and the math is easy. Thanks for writing us! I hope you enjoy making the blanket! -Gina
I just finished the border and the blanket is looking beautiful! The pattern is so simple yet lovely.
I was just wondering how you would recommend blocking the blanket. I don’t want to mess up all the hard work.
Thanks!
Hi Erin! Thanks so much for writing us! Congratulations on finishing the blanket!
To block this blanket, I filled a bucket with room temperature water and a little bit of mild soap (my sink is tiny so I use a large bucket in my bath tub). I placed the blanket in the water to completely submerge it and soaked it for 15 minutes. I dumped the water out and refilled the bucket with clean water. Then I put the blanket in again to rinse, but didn’t soak it this time. I gently squeezed out the water and then rolled the blanket in a clean towel to squeeze out more water. Then I laid the blanket out on another dry towel, making sure it measured correctly and laid perfectly rectangular. Allow the blanket to dry. Setting up a fan close to the blanket speeds along the drying tremendously. You can also flip the blanket periodically to help it dry faster. Let me know if that helps! All my best, Gina
Hi there! This is my first baby blanket I’m knitting and I absolutely love how its turning out! I was a little intimidated by the colour change but I’m glad I gave it a shot because it wasn’t nearly as difficult as I was anticipating.
My only question is when you pick up the slipped stitches along the edge for the triangles, do you go under both V shaped stitches, or do you pop your needle up in between the two of them? I put my needle under both of them and the V shaped stitches are on the wrong side of my blanket and I have a little gap on the right side. I don’t think it looks bad by any means necessary, I just don’t know if its the right way or not!
Thanks so much for this pattern!
Hi Olivia, Thanks for writing us! You are picking up the stitches correctly. I like to go under both legs of the V shaped stitch, especially after slipping the first stitch of every row. The little gap should close up a bit after you’ve done a few rows. You won’t even notice it once you’ve blocked the blanket.
If you have any other questions while knitting this, please don’t hesitate to ask! Enjoy! -GIna
I am also looking to double the size of this blanket and make it a full-size (48×72) throw for my daughter. Before I throw caution to the wind and buy all the yarn (based on your suggestions below, I am looking to get the Tosh Merino because it is washable!) I want to make sure I have the process and ratios correct. Rather than cast on 110 sts as for the baby blanket, I am looking to cast on 220 for the first triangle. For the 2nd and 3rd triangle, I’m guessing I would pick up 112 (twice 56, as called for on the baby blanket) etc. Is this correct thinking? I am so excited to start this project but I just want to make sure there isn’t anything to change when doubling (I see your suggestion to make 2 baby blankets and sew them together, but I think the big, double-sized triangles will make a wonderful, timeless throw for my 7 year old!) Thank you for any advice!!
Hi Sarah, Your idea sounds totally drop dead amazing!
You’ve got it right, just make sure that after the increase row for each triangle (except the first big triangle, which has no increase row since you just cast on the full amount) that you count your stitches and make sure you have double the number indicated in the pattern after the increase row. Other than that, it sounds like you’re on the right track. Please let me know if you have any questions while knitting this. It’s going to be great. I’d love to see a picture when it’s done! Thanks for writing us! -Gina
Hi Sarah,
I was just about to write to ask the same thing. I’m using a DK weight yarn and after I cast on 110 stitches it just seemed far too narrow so I’m keen to double it as you did. Have you finished your blanket? I would love to know how it turned out!!
Thank you 🙂
This blanket is so beautiful. I also just found out that a friend of mine is 4 month pregnant and I would love to make this for her. I’m fairly new to knitting what would be the best way to practice the techniques used in this pattern before I attempt to make this for her?
Hi Kristen,
Great question!
When I planned out this blanket, I actually made a tiny, mini version of the blanket. You could do the same!
For the first large triangle, I casted on 20 stitches, then did the decreases as written in the pattern. When you’re done with the first large triangle, you can pick up around 10 stitches for the first small triangle. Work the second row of the small triangle like this: Slip one, k1, yo, k3, yo, k3, yo, k2. (13 stitches). Continue to work the decreases as in the pattern, remember to knit the yo’s through the back loop. Repeat for the second small triangle. You can continue to make 2 more rows of triangles, or if you feel confident after making only one row of triangles, practice your attached i-cord on the little strip you’ve just made. Let me know what you think of this idea! Thanks so much for writing us -Gina
Gina,
Thank you so much for your great suggestion. I’ve started the first triangle but I am definitely going to work up the mini blanket to practice connecting the second and third triangles before doing it on real one. Especially since this is going to be a gift for a friend.
Hi Kristen,
Thats great! Starting the first triangle is definitely doable. The harder techniques come when you connect the triangles, exactly like you said. Let me know how it goes! And thanks for writing us. -Gina
Help! I’m about half way through the first triangle and I was counting my stitches I realized I have an odd number on my needle. I’m pretty sure I should have an even number. I started looking at my work and I can find where the mistake might have occurred unless I cast on the wrong number of stitches. I didn’t think that happened because I used stitch markers. Is there an easy way to fix this without having a correction be noticeable or having to pullout the entire project and start over?
Hi Kristen,
Thanks for writing us with your question!
It’s totally possible you’ve forgotten to make a decrease somewhere. Completely normal. I did it too, a couple times, when I was making the blanket.
On the next decrease row, simply replace the SSK with this: Slip 1, k2tog, pass the slipped stitch over. This will decrease one stitch extra. The decrease at the end of the row will remain the same. In the end, the shape of the blanket should not be affected. Please write in again if I can help with any other questions. Happy knitting! -Gina
Love this!! Almost done (with a bit of fudging picking up but no problem). My question is about “skipping 15 stitches when doing the attached icord. Why skip anything??
Hi Anne,
This is a great question.
The reason you have to skip stitches on the bottom edge, and pick up extra stitches on the top edge is this: The two edges will not be equalized (meaning they will not be the same length) if you picked up one stitch for every slipped stitch or cast on stitch. Here’s why: For the first triangle (which becomes the bottom edge), you cast on 110 stitches. Along the top edge, you have 78 slipped edge stitches. If you picked up one stitch for every slipped stitch on the top edge, you’d have an attached icord 78 rows long. If you picked up one stitch for every cast on stitch along the bottom edge, you’d have an attached icord 110 rows long. That means your top edge would be shorter than your bottom edge, which is not what we want when we’re making a blanket that’s supposed to be a perfect rectangle. To fix this problem, I took the row gauge of my icord and calculated the number of stitches to pick up in order to get the length I wanted. Since both the top and bottom edge should be the same length for a rectangle, you must pick up the same number of stitches across the top and the bottom edge. Let me know if my explanation makes sense! Thanks for writing us! -Gina
Hi! I saw Olivia’s comment above asking about when to block the blanket. I have finished the first big triangle, the first small left triangle, and am currently working on the first small right triangle. The pattern has been really easy to follow, but I am worried I am doing something incorrectly because I don’t have a straight line at the bottom of the large and small triangle. The bottom goes up on an angle for the small triangle. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Hi Valerie,
Thanks for your question!
This problem resolves itself when the entire blanket is completed. The bottom edge is slightly longer than the top edge of each strip of triangles. The i-cord pulls in the edge enough to make it perfectly straight. Then when you block it, you can lay it out into a perfect rectangle. Blocking really works wonders on this project. Let me know how the rest of the blanket goes and if I can answer any other questions. -Gina
Hi Gina!
Thank you for your help above it was super helpful! I wound up only doing two blocks of big triangles, I guess my yarn was a bit larger and I must have been knitting pretty loosely because the blanket is pretty big! I was wondering if you could describe the corners of the border a little more. I’m not sure when to start/stop doing the extra rows. Thanks!
Hi Valerie!
In order to turn the corners of your blanket, you’ll need just one extra row of Unattached I-cord so that the border is not too tight and doesn’t curl up on you. This row will not be attached because it’s located right above the corner where there is no stitch. You’ll have picked up stitches all along the edge of the blanket and will be working Attached I-cord (a useful tutorial for how to do that can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/01/23/attached-i-cord-tutorial) You will work all of the stitches along the edge that you’re working on (say for example that you’re working on the top or bottom edge, you will work all 95 stitches and when you get to the corner you will work 1 row of Unattached I-cord, which is worked just as Attached I-cord is, except that it is a free-standing row and not worked with a picked up edge stitch. You will work one row this way (which helps you turn the corner) and will then proceed to the next stitch along the following edge. Does that make sense? A helpful video for how to turn corners when working Attached I-cord can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGuBZUHCwSk. Please let us know if you have any further questions! Good luck with your blanket!
Kristy
My brain has obviously left the building! I just can’t figure out the math when attaching the i-cord on the top and bottom part. In which “rhythm” should I do it?
Please help me.
Kind regards,
Mia
PS! Thank you for all the lovely patterns and tutorials. I love the aestheticism and clarity. And especially your tutorial on short-rows. You made it easy-peasy. Kudos!
Hi Mia,
Thank you for the comment! For the top and bottom you will skip a stitch every 6-7 stitches. There isn’t a correct mathematical distribution so I would use that as a general guide but if you notice the body of the blanket or the i-cord puckering you’ll want to skip one. It just should be fairly even and I would go by what looks best!
I hope this helps and feel free to write back if you need anymore assistance!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Working on the overalls color way and I’m on my second small triangle of the alpaca pure. I’m only 12 rows knitted but I’ve run out of yarn. Wondering if you’ve knit the other kit colors and run into the same issues.
Hi Susannah,
Thank you for the comment! Could it be possible that you used the Alpaca Pure yarn (which is yarn B in the pattern) for the yarn A section? Where each of the different yarns are used in the blanket will effect how much is necessary, since the Alpaca Pure has less yardage on it than the Worsted Twist. It is a little confusing because in the Cherry Blossom colorway the Alpaca Pure is Yarn A and requires 3 skeins while in the overalls colorway the Alpaca Pure is Yarn B and only requires 2 skeins.
I hope that clarifies things and feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Hi – This is such a lovely pattern, thank you for sharing with all of us! I’d like to knit it in cotton as it’s going to Australia and Merino/Alpaca would be a bit hot during the summer there. Could you suggest some suitable cotton yarn please? Presumably the knitting directions would be exactly the same? If it’s a little larger or smaller it doesn’t matter.
Thanks again for your fab patterns and inspiration – a source of great pleasure!
Hi Hilary,
Thank you for writing us, I’m so glad you enjoy the pattern! We sell a cotton yarn that is an appropriate weight and would make a lovely substitute, you can browse our color selection of that here; https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/721-Blue-Sky-Dyed-Cotton
You will need about 330 yards of each color.
I hope this helps and let me know if you’d like anymore suggestions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I have completed the blanket and have started the attached Icord along one of the long ends. I am totally baffled about how to proceed with the corners. How do I do a row of attached a row of unattached and then another row of attached Icord? How many stitches constitute a row? Where would I find a more thorough instruction regarding this step? Thank you for so many inspirations and your help, sincerely.
Hi Suzanne,
Thank you for the comment! For this step you are going to do one row of the i-cord unattached which means instead of picking up an edge stitch of the blanket and knitting that with the i-cord stitch you are simply going to knit across the i-cord itself. Here is our tutorial for both the attached i-cord and the unattached i-cord and hopefully this will clarify things!
attached; https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/01/23/attached-i-cord-tutorial/
unattached; https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/09/29/i-cord/
Feel free to respond if your still unsure about it!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I appreciate your presentation of the resolution. At last, I “get” it! Thank you again.
You did a fantastic job.I can knit but do each piece separately then join. Thank you for showing
I am wanting to block this blanket out slightly larger than the knitted size. How much does the I-cord stretch? Would it make a difference if I applied the I-cord after blocking?
Thanks for a fabulous pattern with great instructions Made it for my first grand-daughter! In coral, linen, navy, white with navy icord – so pretty. Excited to be wrapping her up in handmade love!
Love this pattern – I’m almost done 3/4 of the way done – great instructions!
My question is, do you guys not carry the Worsted Twist in ’Super Pink’ any longer? I’m trying to find very bright/hot pink (not magenta) and am having some trouble lately as ones I find elsewhere all seem to made out of acrylic (yuck). I love your worsted twist and the Super Pink. Do you know when you’ll be getting more of this yarn in again if it is out of stock?
Thanks!
Dear January,
Yes, we still carry Worsted Twist in Super Pink and have plenty in stock. You can find it at this link, it’s the third color from the left on the top row.
Enjoy!
Joelle
Gah! I’m so silly – now I see that you still carry it. Not sure why I thought it wasn’t unavailable … Thanks!
By the way, I have finished the blanket minus i-cord because I’m thinking of doing 1 or 2 more in order to create a larger version of the blanket. How would you suggest going about this? How would you suggest enlarging it past just baby-blanket size?
Thank you!
Hello, January!
Thank you for writing in! The easiest way to create a larger blanket may be to make 2 blankets and sewing them together. You could even have the geese going in two directions like a real flying geese quilt! Again, thank you for your question and please let us know if you have further questions!
Best,
Kumeko
Thanks for your reply! That’s exactly what I’m going to do – have the geese going opposite directions. 😀 Would you suggest doing the cord after sewing the 2 blankets together or before as per the original pattern and then attaching them? I’m wondering if doing the i-cord after attaching the 2 blankets together (with opposing directions like you suggested), will balance out the +15/-15 stitch count? Or not?
Also, and I’m sorry to be so thick, but I don’t quite understand: “…To pick up an additional stitch insert the needle one strand over from where you just picked up.” Would this not just be the same way as doing the sides (every stitch) as I don’t see how this would this adds an extra 15 stitches to the ones already needing to be picked up? Ugh. Obviously, I’m completely having a “D’oh” moment.
Thanks so much and apologies for asking so many questions of you all!
Hi January,
I would sew the two portions together and then do the i-cord. After sewing the blankets together, you will have two sides longer than the pattern. These long sides you will pick up and knit the attached i-cord without adding or subtracting any stitches. So, each slipped stitch on the edge you will pick up as normal. For the top and bottom portion you will have two “cast on” edges since your “geese” are facing each other. Since you will have two cast on edges, you should then follow the instructions stating that you will skip 15 stitches evenly across the cast on edge.
If I have misunderstood and your geese happen to be facing outward, you should pick up the slipped stitch twice 15x evenly across the edge. For example you will pick up in the same stitch approximately every five stitches. Hope this clarifies things!
Best,
Adam
Hi,
Love the pattern and have finished but I am struggling to understanding how to increase/add 15 extra stitches when doing the top part of the blanket of the attached i-cord. :C
Could you please clarify what you mean when you say: “…To pick up an additional stitch insert the needle one strand over from the spot where you just picked up.” ?
Thanks so much!
Great pattern- I’m about halfway through the second big triangle & am finding the pattern so easy to understand & read. I am always glad to see a new Purl Soho pattern! My question is related to design. How was it decided to do 4 of the small triangles in heirloom white & 2 in the ballet pink? Is there a history to this quilt pattern? I can’t quite figure out why you wouldn’t do the top & bottom small triangles in the same color & the middle one in a different color… which of course I can do. I just wondered what the reasoning was- thanks.
Hi Mimi,
Thanks for the kind comment! I am not sure what the inspiration was behind the color choice but I do know that Gina is a big fan of quilting and wanted to translate this love into knitting. The colors are very Purl Soho, using soft and bright colors in the same project. Thanks again for writing in.
Best,
Adam
I love this beautiful blanket. I’ll have to go ahead and throw my name in the “turn this into a crochet version” hat. 😉
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for writing in! We will definitely keep you in mind for future projects! Thank you for letting us know!
Best,
Adam
Hi there!
I’m eager to make this blanket for my third baby that is due next year. I have a lot of a lovely soft merino in my stash that is 8ply and was wondering if this would work? If I used a different size needle maybe? Would love your recommendations!
Thanks 🙂
Hi Julia,
Congratulations! You can certainly use an 8ply yarn (DK in US weight) to replace the worsted we used here. The resulting blanket will be a bit smaller, about 10-15% in each dimension, but it should still be a good size. I would suggest using either a US 6 (4 mm) or US 7 (4.5 mm) needle; whichever gives you a fabric that you are more pleased with.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello I consider knitting this blanket as a throw and this using bulkier yarn. This means that I have to cast-on a different number of stitches than what the pattern called for. My question is how did you get tout number 78 St for the second big triangle since my numéro st will differ? In addition do you have a tutorial for the unattached i-cord method? Than you in advance for your help.
Noro
Hi Noro,
Thanks for writing in! At the end of your first triangle you’ll pick up one stitch in every slip stitch selvedge. No matter how many stitches you have cast on this should work on your selvedge edge. We also do have a tutorial for our attached i-cord. Click here for that!
All the best,
Adam
Hi Julia,
I love this blanket! I’m doing the second big triangle for the third time and can’t seem to end with the right amount of rows to pick up. I tired to add by not decreasing throughout but it only made the triangle funky looking. I’m not good with the math, but still love knitting. Maybe counting the rows as I’m going? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Hello Julia,
I’m so sorry you are having this frustrating experience! It is hard to say what could be going wrong without seeing your project, but you will need to pick up the correct amount of stitches for the triangles to fit together properly. When counting the amount of stitches I have cast on or picked up I find it helpful to place stitch markers every 25 stitches and then remove them when I knit my first row. This Tutorial video is also a helpful guide.
I hope you find this helpful!
-Marilla
What is your recommended cast on for this project given the I-cord attachment at the end? The internet seems to agree that a crochet cast on is good for blankets but I wanted to confirm. Thanks!!
Hi Niki,
Thanks for writing in! Since the Attached I-Cord will cover up the cast-on edge, almost any cast-on will work as long as you can clearly see your stitches when picking up for the I-Cord. I am a fan of long-tail and cable cast-ons myself, but I think a crochet cast-on would be just fine!
Thanks for your question!
Julianna
Hi,
I am having trouble on picking up 78 stars on the 2nd and 3rd triangles. There is hardly enough stitches from my selvage of the other two smaller triangles and I have followed this pattern exactly, the two small triangles worked or exactly as the pattern suggests. I must be missing something or I will have to start picking up 3 extra sts on each side of the blanket rather than the top of the small triangle selvage.
Thanks,
Rita
Hi Rita,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m sorry to hear that you are having trouble with this step! Sometimes when you are picking up stitches, you have to fudge it a little bit to get the correct number. Rather than picking up the extra from the selvages, I would probably space them out as evenly as possible across this row, and if you are still off by one or two stitches, simply increase by that amount on the following increase row.
I hope that helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Best,
Julianna
i forgot how much i adore purlsoho. love this pattern
I’m having trouble with the first 2 rows. The second row seems to be the wrong side and vice versa. Thanks for your help
Hi Diane,
Thanks for reaching out! Because we used a long tail cast-on to start this pattern, the first row directly after that will always be a wrong side row. So in this pattern, Row 1 is a wrong side row, and Row 2 is a right side row. If you used a different type of cast-on, things may look a bit different though! Can you let me know what you’re observing in your work that makes it seems like Row 2 should be a wrong side row? I’d be happy to help troubleshoot!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much Lili> I see now I was just overthinking the pattern. I did use that cast on so all is good . Can’t wait to finish!
Hi,
I love this pattern, but would because of the fiber content and fabulous colors, would like to make it in Pouf. How do you think the pattern would look in the bulkier yarn?
Thanks,
Jennifer
Hi Jennifer,
I think this blanket would look fantastic in Pouf! As you mentioned though, it is a bulkier yarn, so you probably won’t be able to match the gauge of the pattern. If you want the blanket to come out the same size, you’ll need to adjust your stitch counts. Or, you could follow the pattern as written and just end up with a larger blanket!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks!
Hi Jennifer,
You’re so very welcome! Wishing you all the happy knitting!
All the best,
The CS Team