Structured Alpaca Cowl in Purl Soho’s New Alpaca Pure!
Purl Soho’s newest yarn, Alpaca Pure, is wonderfully suited for contrasts and warmth! This elegantly plied yarn is as articulate in a textured rib as it is in smooth stockinette stitch. And in 100% of the softest and coziest alpaca fiber we’ve ever felt, this worsted weight yarn creates the very fabric you dream about in the bitterest depths of winter.
Our Structured Alpaca Cowl was inspired by the versatility of Alpaca Pure, its subtle sheen and sumptuous loft. A twisted rib pattern stands tall to protect the back of the neck, while a stockinette front gently drapes below the chin, framing the wearer’s face and fortifying against the cold. Quick and simple to knit, gorgeous to wear, it’s the ultimate last minute gift!
Our Alpaca Pure collection comes in our classic palette of neutrals and blues with pops of our favorite wildflower brights. Enjoy this quick-knitting beauty, so perfect for holiday crafting and giving! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoStructuredAlpacaCowl. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure, 100% alpaca. Approximately 223 yards required. We used the color Artemisia.
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- Stitch markers
Gauge
18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Size
Finished Circumference at top: 17 inches
Finished Circumference at bottom: 21 inches
Finished Height: 18 inches
Notes
sssk [slip slip slip knit]: Slip three stitches purlwise one at a time, insert left needle into front of three slipped stitches, knit together.
k3tog [knit 3 together]: Insert right needle into the next three stitches, knit together.
Pattern
Begin with Front Ribbed Flap
Cast on 47 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (wrong side): (P1 tbl, k1) to last stitch, p1 tbl.
Row 2: (K1 tbl, p1) to last stitch, k1 tbl.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 3 inches.
Repeat Row 1.
Prepare to Work in the Round
Next Row (right side): (K1 tbl, p1) two times, place marker (pm), k39, pm, (p1, k1 tbl) two times, turn work and with wrong side facing, cable cast on 59 stitches. [106 stitches]
Turn work and with right side facing, join for working in the round being careful to not twist the stitches.
(K1 tbl, p1) two times.
NOTE: From this point forward, treat the first marker as the beginning-of-round marker.
Work the Cowl
Round 1: Knit to next marker, (p1, k1 tbl) to last stitch, p1.
Rounds 2 and 3: Repeat Round 1.
Round 4 (Decrease Round): Make 1 left (m1L), knit to next marker, make 1 right (m1R), slip marker, p1, k1 tbl, p1, sssk (see Pattern Notes, above), (p1, k1 tbl) to last 6 stitches, k3tog (see Pattern Notes, above), p1, k1 tbl, p1. (2 stitches decreased)
Rounds 5-8: Repeat Round 1.
Repeat Rounds 1-8 ten more times. [84 stitches]
Finish
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Is this pattern unisex do you think?
Hi Martha.
In terms of fitting, yes, it will fit over an average sized man's head. In terms of style, sure!
Laura
Simply wonderful and so chic! Thank you very much.
Hugs
mimma
Would this pattern also work with your Worsted Twist yarn?
Thanks!
Jennie
Molto particolare il modello e bello il colore! Paola – Italy
i really like that cowl but i am not certain about that dickie like portion.
Hi Jennie,
YES, this would work beautifully with Worsted Twist!
Thanks for asking.
Laura
i only hope i live to 150 years old because otherwise i will never get to knit all the cool stuff you folks come up with!
I love this pattern but had already bought super soft merino to use for the gaiter cowl. Would that be too thick to use for this pattern? If not, how would I adapt?
Would there be enough wool in two skeins to lengthen the front flap to 6-8 inches? It's for a coat that has an open "V" in the front. The first button is about 5 or 6 inches below the collarbone so there's quite a gap. It looks like the pattern could be easily adapted by just adding rows until it was long enough but I don't want to run out of wool at the top. I suppose. if worst came to worst, I could always leave off a couple of rounds at the end.
Could you do a provisional cast on, work pattern and then come back, pick up the edge and knit until you run out of yarn?
Hi, Kathleen,
Thank you for writing in! That sounds like a lovely suggestion!
Best,
Kumeko
I would like to make this for my teenage daughters but I am not sure they would like front ridged flap. Could you tell me how to start without that flap? I love the pattern and yarn. Beautiful!
I dislike working with circular needles and would prefer to use double-pointed — is there any reason that is a problem with this pattern (- and others in general)?
Thank you.
Hi Ravenna-
If that's what you prefer it would totally work! In general people find circular needles more convenient but if that's not the case for you you can almost always use double points instead.
Thanks for your question!
Molly
Hi Jennifer.
The Super Soft Merino will be too thick for this pattern. You could substitute Purl Soho's Worsted Twist if you have any of that laying around. Or any other worsted weight yarn.
As for adjustments, unfortunately we do not have the resources to scale this pattern for a different gauge at this time. But, here is a good way to figure it out… If you swatch for both a twisted rib as well as stockinette you can take those two gauges to figure out the circumference of the bottom. You'll want approximately 10 1/2 inches in ribbing and 10 1/2 inches in stockinette.
Take the number of stitches in stockinette and add 8. This will be your cast on number.
Hope this helps.
Please let me know if you have any other questions along the way.
Laura
Hi Linda L.
Great question. You should be able to get 6 inches, but I think if you do an 8-inch flap, you'll need to dip into a third skein. I would hate for you to run out of yarn before doing all the decreases at the top. Although subtle, the shaping really helps the cowl stand up and prevents it from just being a slouchy necklace.
I am going to re-weight the cowl today to double check about the possibility of the 6-inch flap and will comment back here later today!
Laura
Hi Jen,
I'm so glad you like the cowl. To make it without the flap…
Cast on 106 stitches.
Place a beginning-of-round marker and join for working in the round.
Next Round: K39, place marker, (p1, k1 tbl) to last stitch, p1.
Then follow the pattern above from the section titled WORK THE COWL.
Hope your daughter loves it.
Laura
Oh its just dreamy! Could you ladies provide other sources of yarn that would work. I am unable to wear Alpaca round the neck but sometimes a mix of merino/alpaca is ok. I am so stash busting for this one. Oh and a lot of my stash comes from you guys. Great pattern…….I seriously could only do 10 or so Bandana cowls.
Hi Laura,
This cowl would be just stunning in Purl Soho's Worsted Twist. It has the same gauge as Alpaca Pure, but is a bit lighter and loftier. https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9239-Purl-Soho-Worsted-Twist
Another nice option would be Jade Sapphire's 8-Ply Cashmere: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/819-Jade-Sapphire-8-ply-Cashmere
Or Blue Sky's Worsted (50% alpaca): https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/711-Blue-Sky-Worsted-Hand-Dyes
Or Cascade's Eco Cloud: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8065-Cascade-Yarns-Eco-Cloud
And here is a link to all of our Worsted Weight Yarns: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters%5B%5D=6
Hope this helps. Let us know if you have questions about any of these!
Laura
Linda L.
I was wrong. The cowl weighs just under 200 grams which means I used every last inch of yarn for this project. I would grab a 3rd skein to do an extended front flap.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Thanks, Laura.
I was thinking of getting the third skein anyway just to be safe. I can always do a headband or use it for another project.
I never thought of weighing the finished article. That's a great way to know if you have enough "stash yarn" to repeat a project.
Next Row (right side): (K1 tbl, p1) two times, place marker (pm), k39, pm, (p1, k1 tbl) two times, turn work and with wrong side facing, cable cast on 59 stitches. [106 stitches]
Hi, I didnt understand what does it mean "cable cast on 59 stitches"….
Thank you so much for sharing this tutorial. It was a great inspiration for a kid sized cowl I made for my nephew for Christmas. He absolutely loves it and I love it cause the ribbing helps the back stand tall keeping out the cold & snow.
http://stargrafdesignprojects.blogspot.com/2013/12/knitting-christmas-cowl.html
Hi Eduardo,
The cable cast on method allows you to cast on stitches in the middle of a row or round. For a tutorial… please click here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-tutorials-cast-ons/2008/7/7/cable-cast-on.html
Please let us know if you have any other questions.
Laura
Hi Laura, this is a lovely pattern, thank you for sharing it! Can I ask if it's possible to follow with a standard rib, ie, making all stitches through the front loop rather than the back? I'm a relatively new knitter and find it difficult to swap between the two. What's the advantage of going through the back? Many thanks, Sara x
Hi Sara,
Knitting through the back loop is a way to add a bit more texture and density to the knit stitch. It also causes a much deeper and more defined rib. It does affect the gauge of the fabric as well, so if you decide to do a standard rib, be sure to swatch first to see if you will need to change your needles.
Thanks,
Laura
If you slip all those stitches purlwise, isn't the result of your sssk the same as k3tog tbl?
Usually ssk means slip stitches one at a time knitwise. I've adopted the tweak made popular by Brooklyn Tweed of slipping the first knitwise and the second purlwise. I don't know how that translates to an sssk though.
Thanks for the pattern, I have some perfect yarn for it!
Hi Dorothy,
Great question. And great catch. The two decreases (sssk and k3tog tbl) described in the Pattern Notes portion of this pattern result in similar-looking decreases.
The Pattern Notes should NOT include k3tog tbl at all. In the pattern, you are actually instructed to k3tog not k3tog tbl. I will remedy this now. Thank you so much for bringing this up.
Best,
Laura
I love this pattern and bought the two skeins of the recommended wool, but ran out of wool before I had finished. I am a relatively novice knitter and confess to not doing a guage swatch before beginning. So, I suppose my stitch is just too loose? It turned out well, but is a bit too slouchy because I couldn't do all the decreases to the top. I was in the seventh round of ten when I ran out. Good lesson to me to keep an eye on the yarn and not just leave it in my knitting bag too! The wool is fabulous and soft; I think I may make another one to try to get it right.
Hi Sherry,
Thanks for writing in and sharing your experience with this pattern. I did use every last inch of the two skeins and will be sure to make a note of that in the pattern.
Laura
Sending this my boyfriend's way–he's been designing knitted cowls to wear with his motorcycle and I bet he will love this one! Thanks for the free pattern.
If you have any suggestions on making this cowl with both a front and back flap, I would love it. Cold windy weather slips down the back collar and makes neck and shoulders cold. A back flap would be a great addition.
Margie,
You are speaking my language. I love that idea. It makes it like a two-sided dickie. To do this… I would cast on 59 stitches and work the following two rows (they are similar to the back flap, but essentially, if looking at the RS, you need it to go purl-knit-purl, rather than knit-purl-knit in order to not disrupt the pattern later):
Row 1 (wrong side): K1, (P1 tbl, k1) to last stitch.
Row 2: p1, (K1 tbl, p1) to last stitch.
Once the flap is the length you would like, put it to the side, either on a spare needle or scrap yarn. Then cast on normally for the project and work it as instructed. You'll get to the following line of instructions:
Next Row (right side): (K1 tbl, p1) two times, place marker (pm), k39, pm, (p1, k1 tbl) two times, turn work and with wrong side facing, cable cast on 59 stitches. [106 stitches]
BUT, you will not have to do the cable cast on, simple work across the first flap you made.
I hope this makes sense. Please let me know if you have any more questions AND let us know how it turns out!
Laura
I was wondering if you recommend a selvedge for the bib of the cowl, and if so, what type? Also, what is the best way to do the step "cable cast on 59 stitches" if a selvedge is added?
Hi Shannon.
Thanks for writing in. I am not completely clear on what you mean by selvedge here. The pattern above includes instructions on how to create the cowl I made, pictured here. I did not do anything additional to the edges at the front of the cowl. I didn't find it necessary. Were you wondering if I treated the edge stitches differently than is instructed in the pattern?
I would love to answer this question better or more fully if I haven't answered your question.
Please feel free to write us back if you'd like!
Laura
Hi
This knitted up like a dream. So soft and feminine. I decided to de-structure it and simply decrease 2 stitches every four rows. The little bib in front adds warmth. I used a blush color purl soho pure alpaca.You can see the picture on my blog.
This is such a beautiful pattern and i can’t wait to start knitting it. I absolutely love Alpaca and your patterns are stunning. i am however, a bit of a novice and don’t know what tbl means…can someone please tell me? Thanks so much!
Hi Sofia-
It means “through back loop.” So instead of inserting your right needle into the front of the loop on your left needle, you insert it into the back of the loop.
Hope this helps!
Molly
Aloha. I am currently knitting this cowl for a teacher. I got up to joining in round. When I cable cast on, the nice edge is on the wrong side. What am I doing wrong? Mahalo for your help.
Hi Stefanie.
I bet you haven’t done a thing wrong. Before doing the cable cast on, did you turn your work so the wrong side was facing? Did you then cast on and then turn your work and continue, connecting in the round? Have you seen our cable cast on tutorial: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/07/07/cable-cast-on/
You may be surprised that the non “nice edge” will look just fine on the edge of the cowl!
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Thank you very much for your help, Laura. I think the only thing I did wrong was twist the stitch before placing it back on the left needle. Yay! Now I can move forward with this gift. Have a great day.
Hello!
I started knitting this lovely cowl. Unfortunately my salvage stitches (on the front flap) look iffy – either lumpy or stretched 🙁 I wish you had a tutorial on how you knit your salvage stitches 🙂
I use a continental technique (?), i.e. all manipulations are done only by needles (no wrapping of yarn around needle by hand), and think it might be a culprit…. 🙂
I`d appreciate your thoughts on this 🙂
Hi Anna.
Thanks for writing in!
As for the selvedge stitches… I don’t believe I did anything special or different or unusual to control them in a particular way. I do knit English style, so that may be part of the difference. Right now we don’t have any plans for making a video of this particular project, but we will definitely get it on the (very long) to do list!
Laura
Thank you, Laura!
Happy Holidays!
Is the 18″ length (height) from the origin of the bib or from the edge of the general circumference??
Thanks so much!
Adore the pattern! Tsm!
Hi Zed dez,
The cowl measures 18 inches from the original cast on at the bottom of the front to the bind off edge.
Hope this helps.
Thrilled to hear you like the pattern!
Laura
Hi ! I’ve just complete this fabulous pattern, but I did something wrong, but can’t figured what ? If you look at my screenshot here (http://screencast.com/t/G6U0xuG2FG), you will see that the angle formed by the rib on one side is bigger then the other side. Really would like to repeat this pattern again… but without my mistake, that I can’t figured out ! Thanks 🙂
Hi Kim.
I can’t seem to see any errors. It looks well knit. I think this might just be the result of hand knitting. Some people knit in a way that pulls to one side more than the other, creating a twist or slant in the fabric. It tends to be more noticeable when knitting in the round vs knitting flat. The good news is, usually blocking the item will solve this slant issue. Have you blocked this cowl? I would suggest just steam blocking it first (hovering a steaming iron just over the fabric and then once the piece is nicely dampened stretch it into the desired shape and pin it down to dry) or if that isn’t giving you the results you want, you could try submerging the cowl in water (gently squeeze excess water out then pin it to dry).
I’m glad you like the project. I bet the next time you make it, it will slant less because your hands will be more used to the shaping techniques and won’t strain the fabric as much.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
Oh thank you very much for your answer ! I’ve learn something 🙂
I dis this project 3 times now and each time I am not satisfied with my bind off. How should I “bind off loosely” IN PATTERN ? (I guess I shouldn’t use the same bind off stitch all around but I don’t know how to proceed to end up perfectly has your’s!)
Thanks !
Hello Kim!
This bind off is really effective if you’re looking for something extra stretchy! Give it a shot and let us know what you think! http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/FEATjssbo.php Thanks Knitty.com for such a great tutorial! Best of luck! -Alyson
First I want to thank you for all the great inspiration I always find here. I think there hasn’t been one design so far I wouldn’t have liked a lot.
My question is: would you think this cowl would look great in a 2 ply lace yarn, too? Or would the reversible cowl be a better pattern for that?
Greetings from Germany,
Kai
Hi Kai!
I’m so glad you wrote in and thank you so much for your kind words about our designs! As for your question… A 2 ply lace yarn would be perfectly suited for the Reversible Cowl. It’s a great pattern and a cozy knit!
Thanks again for writing in.
Laura
hello, i love this cowl!
i’m making it for a man who’s neck is 16″ in circumference. how can i make it a tad bit larger for him. i’m sure it will go over his head–i just don’t want it to feel too closed in on his throat. any suggestions?
thanks!
Hi Tess,
Thanks for writing in! The best place to add some additional room would be in the ribbed section at the back. Just be sure not to add to much or the cowl will not stand up! It is intended to fit on the tighter side. To add additional room, once you get to the Prepare to Work in the Round section, where you cable cast on 59 stitches you can add more stitches in multiples of 2. This will add additional ribs in the back section of the cowl.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi,
I’d like to give this a try. Would understory, tov, far, or flax down be good alternatives to alpaca pure, or is worsted twist the best choice? Also, how many skeins will I need.
Thanks.
Debra
Hi Debra,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend Worsted Twist as it is the most comparable to Alpaca Pure, Understory and Flax Down are more considered light worsted/DK weight. Woolfolk Tov or Far would work as well! I would also recommend working up a gauge swatch with whichever yarn you decide to use to insure that your gauge is consistent with the pattern!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi!
Thank you for all the beautiful patterns, I get so inspired.
Anyways I was just wondering bcause i Made this Cowl and it looks beautiful but for some reason it isnt had long and it almost keeps the same circumference the whole time so i found it a bit floppy on top, I noticed when i looked at the pictures that there seem to be far more then 3 rows between each decrease round(4 if you include it)? Is that possible ? Did i Missunderstand the pattern :(?
Hi Cassandre,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I see where the confusion is! There are more than 4 rows between each decrease row. I find that it helps if I write things out long form.
Round 1: Knit to next marker, (p1, k1 tbl) to last stitch, p1.
Round 2: Knit to next marker, (p1, k1 tbl) to last stitch, p1.
Round 3: Knit to next marker, (p1, k1 tbl) to last stitch, p1.
Round 4: M1L, knit to next marker, m1R, slip marker, p1, k1 tbl, p1, sssk, (p1, k1 tbl) to last 6 stitches, k3tog, p1, k1 tbl, p1. (2 stitches decreased)
Round 5: Knit to next marker, (p1, k1 tbl) to last stitch, p1.
Round 6: Knit to next marker, (p1, k1 tbl) to last stitch, p1.
Round 7: Knit to next marker, (p1, k1 tbl) to last stitch, p1.
Round 8: Knit to next marker, (p1, k1 tbl) to last stitch, p1.
You will then repeat rows 1-8 ten more times. This will yield 7 rows between each decrease row.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I love this pattern. I was so glad my daughter-in-law picked this out for her baby alpaca cowl. I got messed up when I shifted and decreased on the right. My left decrease worked well. My right decrease left a hole. I was doing something wrong.
At the beginning purling in the back was a challenge. I was glad after the flap was done I never had to do that again. Great pattern! It was fun to knit. I can see making one for myself. I only used 2 skeins of the baby alpaca and I am a loose knitter.
Hello Glo,
Thank you for reaching out- I’m happy to hear that you enjoyed this project! Was the hole happening consistently every time you did a m1R(make 1 right)? Or was it in another stitch in the decrease row? If it was in your M1R stitch it is possible that after you picked up the bar you were knitting through the back rather than the front, which would create a small hole.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi Laura,
Thanks so much for sharing this gorgeous pattern! I would love to make this for one of my professors I admire very much, but the Alpace Pure is a bit out of my budget….would you have any recommendations for a more of a ~student-friendly~ budget? Or do you think any worsted weight yarn will do?
Thanks so much in advance!
-Esther
Hi Esther,
Thank you so much for the kind words! You could substitute just about any worsted or aran weight yarn. I would suggest either Cascade 220 or Manos del Uruguay Maxima as more budget-friendly options!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Bonjour j’aimerais Tricoter le capot pour des personnes sans domicile fixe mais je comprends rien à k1,tbl,p1, est pouvait me mettre en français merci d’avance
Cordialement
Hi Severine,
Thanks for writing in! At present, our patterns are only available in English. We certainly appreciate the request!
Best,
Julianna
Hi, I can’t find the yarn for this on your website. Have you stopped selling it?
Thanks
Hi Jane,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, Alpaca Pure has been discontinued – I’m so sorry about that! I would recommend using either Worsted Twist or Cashmere Tend for this pattern. Both knit up to the same gauge as Alpaca Pure and would be lovely in this cowl!
Best,
Julianna
I’m excited to be knitting this beautiful cowl but am stuck at the Prepare to Work in the Round section.
At the point where it asks me to “turn work and with wrong side facing, cable cast on 59 stitches,” I’m not sure how to proceed. If I turn the work, my knitting wool is now in my right hand (not my left where it should be). Am I missing something?
Thanks in advance
Hi Dee,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you might have automatically turned at the end of your last row as you normally would, and then read the instructions to turn the work again, but we do only mean to turn once as usual! To work the cable cast on, you should have the wrong side facing you and the needle with the yarn attached in your left hand.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
I’m having problems when I reach the point to cast off. Perhaps I’m missing something obvious
When I get to the Prepare to work in Round section, and reach the “turn work and with wrong side facing, cable cast on 59 stitches [106 stitches), I can cable cast on 59 stitches but it is not with wrong side facing
I feel that this is going to be a “duh” moment when I read the response but I can’t figure out what I am missing
Thank you so much in advance
Hi Sunday,
Thanks for reaching out! A cable cast on is worked starting with the last two stitches of the row that is on the needles, so after working the first row in the “Prepare To Work In The Round” section, which has you knit the center 39 stitches, if you turn your work so that the needle with the yarn attached is in your left hand and you are ready to cast on, the purl side of that row should be facing you. If you try to cast on at the opposite end of the needles, where the yarn isn’t attached and with the right side facing, although it’s possible, you will end up with a small closed loop or a strand of yarn passing across the middle of the cowl. You may want to double check our Cable Cast On tutorial to make sure you aren’t confusing it with a different cast on that would be worked in the opposite direction!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I would love to make this cowl! Do you think it is possible in Understory yarn (preferably), or season alpaca? With either, how should I change the pattern??
Hi Lucinda,
Thanks for reaching out! Understory has a fairly similar gauge to Alpaca Pure, so I think it could work. However, Season Alpaca is sportweight, so I think that it’s far too light a weight for this project! I actually want to suggest Worsted Twist as a good substitute for Alpaca Pure, since it’s also a worsted weight yarn, and it has a similar structure.
As always, we recommend making a gauge swatch before starting a project to be sure you’re working with the right needles, especially when substituting yarns. If this is daunting, I’d recommend checking out a tutorial called All About Gauge, which covers some incredibly helpful information!
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Would this pattern work with cashmere merino bloom?
Thank you.
Hi Debra,
Thanks for writing in. I don’t think that Cashmere Merino Bloom would be a great substitute for Alpaca Pure, since it’s a DK weight yarn, while Alpaca Pure was worsted weight. Instead, I’d recommend taking a look through the worsted/aran weight yarns we carry to find a good substitute, in terms of weight! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Thanks, lili. I’ll do that!
Debra
Hi, from your listed materials it’s not entirely clear. Can I make this with 218 yards of any sport/dk weight yarn, or because I’ll need two skeins of the alpaca pure, do I actually need 436 yards?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! That is a great question, our Alpaca Pure had 109 yards per skein and the cowl uses approximately 218 yards, so you will just need 218 yards to complete the cowl. In place of Alpaca Pure, I would suggest using our lovely Plenty! It is a close gauge match so it would be a great option for this cowl, each skein is 139 yards, so you will want 2 skeins.
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Hello,
I’m a new knitter and am a little confused with the gauge directions. I looked at your All About Gauge page and couldn’t find an answer. You say this gauge is 18 stitches. How many rows do I knit?
Thanks!
Eva
Hi Eva!
Thanks for your great question! You are correct in that you should be getting 18 stitches per 4 inches horizontally, while also knitting enough rows to reach 4 inches vertically. Most of our older patterns did not include a row gauge measurement, but after doing some calculations, we estimated that working about 24 rows would reach the 4” gauge mark. For this specific pattern, I would cast on at least 24 stitches and knit at least 30 rows, in order to knit a slightly larger than 4” square from which to assess your gauge. It’s recommended that a gauge swatch is slightly larger than the area you need to measure, to account for the rolled edges of stockinette stitch, and just to make it easier to take an accurate measurement!
Additionally, because this pattern is knit in the round, it might benefit you to knit your gauge swatch in the round, which we have a tutorial for here.
I hope this helps you!
All the best,
Margaret
Somewhere on your website I thought you suggested buying Super Soft Merino for the Structured Alpaca Cowl. I bought the yarn and it’s Super Bulky so I must have misread. So now I need a yarn better suited to the Cowl as well as what I can knit from Super Bulky single spun Merino. Thanks
Hi Bette,
Thanks for reaching out. The Structured Alpaca Cowl was originally designed for Alpaca Pure, which was a worsted weight yarn. Since that yarn has since been discontinued, I’d recommend using Worsted Twist instead!
As for a use for the Super Soft Merino you already have, we happen to have designed many patterns using that yarn! I’d recommend browsing through those at this link. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I see my problem was mixing up Structured Alpaca Cowl with Quick and Cozy Cowl. Not paying attention I guess. Thanks for your help.
I have a question about the decreases on this cowl. I am on the first decrease on row four. Then the pattern says to work rows five through eight. Next repeat rows one through eight. Does this mean that you decrease again on the next row 4, which would make eight rows between each decrease row?
I have knitted this pattern before several years ago, but I don’t remember exactly the number of rows between decreases. It is for my godson who works in a cattle feed yard in Lubbock, Texas where it is really windy and cold during winter. I have knitted him several cowls, but this is his favorite because he can tuck it into the front of his jacket. You all should consider promoting it for people who work outside in the winter. It would be a great seller.
Hi Clare,
Yes, you’ll always be decreasing only on each repeat of Round 4! That way, the decreases end up being 8 rounds apart from each other (7 rounds in between each decrease round). And I’m so glad to hear that the design of this cowl is perfect for your godson!
All the best,
Lili
Than you
Hi there! Love this pattern. I added 10 stitches to the cable cast on to give me a bit more room… would I need to do the decreases differently ? If so.. what do you suggest?
Thanks!
Hi Jennifer,
As long as you keep the stitch markers in the same places as they are in the original pattern, you will not need to change the location of the decreases (or increases) at all! The ribbed section in the back of the cowl will just be slightly wider at all points.
All the best,
Lili
Hi There!
Thank you so much for this beautiful pattern. I cannot figure out why but on one edge of the “bib” my edge is so messy and loose looking? The other edge looks lovely and straight. Should I add (2) extra stitches during cast on to slip one on each end for a cleaner edge?
Thank you so much!
Hi Alyssa,
Thank you for writing in! You can definitely add two stitches for a nice clean selvage edge!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi There! Is there a way that the decrease slant that is on the wrong side ( or inside ) of the cowl could be on the outside?
Thank you!
Hi Alyssa,
We haven’t given this a try yet but you can definitely swatch to see how you like the result of the fabric. I’d do this by casting on just a small section and seeing how you like the way it works up.