Seashell Lace Wrap
Knitting is so timeless it sometimes seems to blur into nature, its existence as mysterious and awesome as a spider web or a fern frond. Our Seashell Lace Wrap embodies this ambiguity, half cultural phenomenon, half natural wonder!
This stitch pattern was immortalized by knitting’s own natural wonder, Barbara Walker. A great chronicler of the marvels of knits and purls, she dubbed this stitch the Seven-Rib Shell, a name that embraces knitting’s engineering along with its inspiration.
Not necessarily a pattern for beginners or for the times you hardly want to think, the Seashell Lace Wrap is a wonderfully mindful knit, requiring enough attention that your focus remains on the beauty at hand.
For our version, we used our gorgeous mohair-silk Tussock. Its soft edges lend a dreamy quality, while its delicacy brings an ethereal beauty… A stunning choice in every way.
This straight-from-the-ocean color is our Blue Fjord. Light-filled and nuanced, it is a perfectly balanced blue with a ton of heart. Choose it or any color from Tussock’s beautiful palette and fabricate a little nature!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoSeashellLaceWrap, and #PurlSohoTussock. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 4 skeins of Purl Soho’s Tussock, 60% super fine kid mohair and 40% silk. Each skein is 328 yards/ 25 grams; approximately 1,312 total yards required. We used the color Blue Fjord.
- US 4 (3.5 mm) straight or 24-inch circular needles
Gauge
26 stitches and 37 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern
Size
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 18 inches wide x 72 inches long
Notes
Stitch Multiple
The stitch multiple for the cast on is 29 + 3 stitches.
DEC4 (Decrease 4)
Right Slanting: Pass the second stitch on the left needle over the first stitch on the left needle as you would to bind off, repeat this step with the following 2 stitches on the left needle, knit the stitch on the left needle as usual. [3 stitches decreased]
Left Slanting: Slip 4 stitches purlwise with yarn in back from the left needle to the right needle, pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first stitch on the right needle as you would to bind off, repeat this step with the following 2 stitches on the right needle. Slip the first stitch on the right needle back onto the left needle and knit it. [3 stitches decreased]
DEC7 (Decrease 7)
Slip 4 stitches purlwise with yarn in back from the left needle to the right needle, pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first stitch as you would to bind off. Slip the stitch back to the left needle and pass the second stitch on the left needle over the first. Repeat, slipping the stitch between the left and right needle and passing a stich over until 6 stitches have been bound off, the stitch should be on the left needle. Knit the stitch. [6 stitches decreased]
Pattern
Cast on 119 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1-28 from either the Written Instructions or Chart, below, until piece measures 72 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 28. Then go on to the Finishing section at the end of the pattern.
Written Instructions
Row 1 (right side): K2, (p2, k1) 3 times, *yarn over (yo), p10, yo, (k1, p2) 6 times, k1, repeat from * to last 21 stitches, yo, p10, yo, (k1, p2) 3 times, k2. [127 stitches]
Row 2 (wrong side): P2, (k2, p1) 3 times, p1, k10, p1, *p1, (k2, p1) 6 times, p1, k10, p1, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, (p1, k2) 3 times, p2. [127 stitches]
Row 3: K2, (p2, k1) 3 times, *yo, p12, yo, (k1, p2) 6 times, k1, repeat from * to last 23 stitches, yo, p12, yo, (k1, p2) 3 times, k2. [135 stitches]
Row 4: P2, (k2, p1) 3 times, p1, k12, p1, *p1, (k2, p1) 6 times, p1, k12, p1, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, (p1, k2) three times, p2. [135 stitches]
Row 5: K2, (p2tog, k1) 3 times, *(yo, p7) 2 times, yo, (k1, p2tog) 6 times, k1, repeat from * to last 25 stitches, (yo, p7) 2 times, yo, (k1, p2tog) 3 times, k2. [123 stitches]
Row 6: P2, (k1, p1) 3 times, (p1, k7) 2 times, p1, *p1, (k1, p1) 6 times, (p1, k7) 2 times, p1, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, p1, (k1, p1) 3 times, p1. [123 stitches]
Row 7: K2, (p1, k1) 3 times, *yo, p6, yo, p2, k1, p2, yo, p6, yo, (k1, p1) 6 times, k1, repeat from * to last 25 stitches, yo, p6, yo, p2, k1, p2, yo, p6, yo, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2. [139 stitches]
Row 8: P2, (k1, p1) 3 times, p1, k6, (p1, k2) 2 times, p1, k6, p1, *(p1, k1) 6 times, p2, k6, (p1, k2) 2 times, p1, k6, p1, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, (p1, k1) 3 times, p2. [139 stitches]
Row 9: K2, (p1, k1) 3 times, *yo, p5, yo, (p2, k1) 3 times, p2, yo, p5, yo, (k1, p1) 6 times, k1, repeat from * to last 29 stitches, yo, p5, yo, (p2, k1) 3 times, p2, yo, p5, yo, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2. [155 stitches]
Row 10: P2, (k1, p1) 3 times, p1, k5, (p1, k2) 4 times, p1, k5, p1, *(p1, k1) 6 times, p2, k5, (p1, k2) 4 times, p1, k5, p1, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, (p1, k1) 3 times, p2. [155 stitches]
Row 11: K2, k2tog 3 times, *p4, yo, (p2, k1) 5 times, p2, yo, p4, ssk 3 times, k1, k2tog 3 times, repeat from * to last 33 stitches, p4, yo, (p2, k1) 5 times, p2, yo, p4, ssk 3 times, k2. [139 stitches]
Row 12: P5, k4, (p1, k2) 6 times, p1, k4, *p7, k4, (p1, k2) 6 times, p1, k4, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p5. [139 stitches]
Row 13: K1, DEC4 Right Slanting (see Notes), *p4, yo, (k1, p2) 6 times, k1, yo, p4, DEC7 (see Notes), repeat from * to last 32 stitches, p4, yo, (k1, p2) 6 times, k1, yo, p4, DEC4 Left Slanting (see Notes), k1. [123 stitches]
Row 14: P1, *k2tog, k3, p2, (k2, p1) 6 times, p1, k4, repeat from * to last 32 stitches, k2tog, k3, p2, (k2, p1) 6 times, p1, k3, k2tog, p1. [118 stitches]
Row 15: K1, *p5, yo, (k1, p2) 6 times, k1, yo, p5, repeat from * to last 30 stitches, p5, yo, (k1, p2) 6 times, k1, yo, p5, k1. [126 stitches]
Row 16: P1, *k5, p2, (k2, p1) 6 times, p1, k5, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [126 stitches]
Row 17: K1 *p6, yo, (k1, p2) 6 times, k1, yo, p6, repeat from * to last stitch, k1. [134 stitches]
Row 18: P1, *k6, p2, (k2, p1) 6 times, p1, k6, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [134 stitches]
Row 19: K1, yo, p7, *yo, (k1, p2tog) 6 times, k1, (yo, p7) 2 times, repeat from * to last 27 stitches, yo, (k1, p2tog) 6 times, k1, yo, p7, yo, k1. [123 stitches]
Row 20: P2, k7, p2, (k1, p1) 6 times, p1, *k7, p1, k7, p2, (k1, p1) 6 times, p1, repeat from * to last 9 stitches, k7, p2. [123 stitches]
Row 21: K2, p2, yo, p5, *p1, yo, (k1, p1) 6 times, k1, yo, p6, yo, p2, k1, p2, yo, p5, repeat from * to last 24 stitches, p1, yo, (k1, p1) 6 times, k1, yo, p6, yo, p2, k2. [139 stitches]
Row 22: P2, k2, p1, k6, p2, (k1, p1) 6 times, p1, k1, *k5, p1, (k2, p1) 2 times, k6, p2, (k1, p1) 6 times, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, k5, p1, k2, p2. [139 stitches]
Row 23: K2, p2, k1, p2, yo, p2, *p3, yo, (k1, p1) 6 times, k1, yo, p5, yo, (p2, k1) 3 times, p2, yo, p2, repeat from * to last 28 stitches, p3, yo, (k1, p1) 6 times, k1, yo, p5, yo, p2, k1, p2, k2. [155 stitches]
Row 24: P2, (k2, p1) 2 times, k5, p2, (k1, p1) 6 times, p1, k3, *(k2, p1) 5 times, k5, p2, (k1, p1) 6 times, p1, k3, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, (k2, p1) 3 times, p1. [155 stitches]
Row 25: K2, (p2, k1) 2 times, p2, *yo, p4, ssk 3 times, k1, k2tog 3 times, p4, yo, (p2, k1) 5 times, p2, repeat from * to last 31 stitches, yo, p4, ssk 3 times, k1, k2tog 3 times, p4, yo, (p2, k1) 3 times, k1. [139 stitches]
Row 26: P2, (k2, p1) 3 times, k4, p7, k4, p1, *(k2, p1) 6 times, k4, p7, k4, p1, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, (k2, p1) 3 times, p1. [139 stitches]
Row 27: K2, (p2, k1) 3 times, *yo, p4, DEC7, p4, yo, (k1, p2) 6 times, k1, repeat from * to last 26 stitches, yo, p4, DEC7, p4, yo, (k1, p2) 3 times, k2. [123 stitches]
Row 28: P2, (k2, p1) 3 times, p1, k4, k2tog, k3, p1, *p1, (k2, p1) 6 times, p1, k4, k2tog, k3, p1, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, p1, (k2, p1) 3 times, p1. [119 stitches]
UPDATE, AUGUST 19, 2020: We’ve corrected the stitch counts at the end of each row. We’re sorry for the initial errors, but they’re all accurate now. We promise!
Chart
NOTE: Begin this chart in the bottom right corner. Right-side rows are odd numbered and read right to left. Wrong-side rows are even numbered and read left to right. Work your way up the chart to the top line.
(Want to see it bigger? Click here and view the chart as a PDF!)
Update: Chart + Key Modified on July 31, 2020
Chart: On Row 14 end repeat with k3.
Key: For the knit 2 together on the wrong side symbol, you need to purl 2 together on the right side.
Update: Chart Modified on March 15, 2021: On Row 14, repeat begins with a k1.
Finishing
With the right side facing you, bind off knitwise.
Weave in the ends and wet block to finish!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
So beautiful ! Someday I hope I can make this;)
Is there a trick to getting your patterns to download properly? Five or six page pattern ends up being 18 or 20 because all pictures get shoved to different pages and the document just won’t download or save the way it appears on the screen. Very frustrating and a huge waste of paper.
Hi and thanks for reaching out! Yes, you can use our print function to choose which portions of the pattern to print or skip! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks!!
Fabulous color… wonderfull pattern, can i have this yarn in France? And this pattern in french?
Hi Christine,
Thank you so much for the kind words! We do ship to France, and are currently offering international shipping for just $12. You can read all about our shipping rates and policies on our Shipping Page! At present our patterns are only available in English, but we certainly appreciate the request.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Beautiful pattern. Looking for yarn to start this today
Is Tussock a “sticky” yarn? I have knitted with similar yarns, and unknitting is impossible.
Thank you.
e.
Hi Eliza,
Great question! The “stickiness” you are referring to is a characteristic of all mohair yarns, including Tussock. The soft and fluffy mohair fibers have a tendency to interlock, making it quite difficult to unknit or frog! It sounds a little odd, but putitng your project in the freezer for a while before attempting to take out your stitches can be helpful. The dry, cold air temporarily helps the mohair fibers lay a little flatter and should make it easier to separate them.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Beautiful pattern
This is just stunning. I would love to knit this but I’m not a fan of mohair. Can you suggest another yarn?Thank you
Hi Donna,
Thank you so much for the kind words and for writing in! I think this stitch would be just as gorgeous in either Cattail Silk or Linen Quill! You will need three skeins of either yarn for this wrap.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Beautiful
I’d like to make this for my daughter, but she’s allergic to wool and mohair. What can I substitute?
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! I think this stitch pattern would be stunning in Cattail Silk or Sweetgrass!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
hello,
Really so beautyfull. But I’m a belgian woman and
I would be so happy to find the instructions in french. Is that possible?
Monique
Hi Monique,
Thank you so much for the kind words! At present, our patterns are only available in English, but we certainly appreciate the request!
Best,
Julianna
Bonjour,tout d’abord merci pour ces beaux partages de vos modèles.C’est toujours un plaisir d’ouvrir vos mails.I am french speaking so sorry for mistakes.I wanted to know if you use the yarn for this scarf dubble or single?How long would it take for the shipment to France ?Thank you for a reply.Merci d’avance
Hi Monique,
Thank you so much for the kind words and for reaching out! We used a single strand of Tussock for this scarf, and we do ship to France! Unfortunately, I can’t say how long it would take as many shipping companies worldwide are experiencing delays, but most international packages are arriving within 4 weeks.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Good morning. If I wanted to knit a small swatch for my gauge, how many stitches would I need to cast on?
Hi Connie,
Great question! This stitch pattern works with any multiple of 29 plus 3 stitches, so I would recommend casting on a single repeat, or 32 stitches, for your swatch.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello. I’m having trouble understanding the test swatch. Am I only doing the part between the asterisks? If so, does that mean I start with a yo?
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for reaching out, and I apologize for the confusion! After taking a closer look at the pattern, you will actually need to cast on 31 stitches, and will then start and end each row with a knit and work either the portion of the row between the asterisks or the stitches outlined in red on the chart between those two knit stitches. This should make it much easier to start the repeat with a yarn over since you will be knitting one stitch first!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Love so ho!
Hello,
Will Anzula Cloud work for this? Thank you.
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for reaching out! Although I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch in pattern to see if it affects the gauge, I think Anzula Cloud would be a lovely choice for this wrap!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I have an iPad how do I get just the patter——I have yarn I bought on a cone I can use.
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for writing in! As long as you have a printer you can access from your iPad, you can use our print function to print the pattern! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you for a beautiful pattern. I am making a swatch to learn the pattern. Enjoying the difficulty but I am not able to figure out the dec7. Not sure what to do after the second decrease on the left needle. I’ll keep working on it, but thanks in advance for any help you can provide
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! After you have passed a stitch over on the left hand needle, you will transfer that same stitch back to the right hand needle and pass another stitch over that same center stitch, then move it back to the left hand needle and repeat, moving the stitch back and forth from needle to needle, until you have passed sevens stitches total over that stitch.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
That is such a helpful explanation! I was stymied by the pattern instruction but I understand perfectly now. What a neat decrease.
Is there a video to show us the Decrease7?
Thanks
Hi Giovanna,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, we don’t have the resources to create a video for this decrease at the moment, but I will certainly pass your suggestion along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
can you help explain DEC4 & DEC7 a bit more?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out! For the DEC4 there is a right and left slanting option, for the right slanting decreases you will be passing the second stitch on the left needle over the first stitch on the left needle as if you were binding off, repeat this step with the following 2 stitches on the left needle, knit the stitch on the left needle as usual. [3 stitches decreased] Then for the left slanting version you will be slipping 4 stitches purlwise with yarn in back from the left needle to the right needle, pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first stitch on the right needle as if you were binding off, repeat this step with the following 2 stitches on the right needle. Slip the first stitch on the right needle back onto the left needle and knit it. [3 stitches decreased]
For the DEC7 you will be slipping 4 stitches purlwise with yarn in back from the left needle to the right needle, you will then pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first stitch as if you were binding off. Slip the stitch back to the left needle and pass the second stitch on the left needle over the first. Repeat, slipping the stitch between the left and right needle and passing a stitch over until 6 stitches have been bound off, the stitch should be on the left needle. Knit the stitch. [6 stitches decreased]
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this pattern, but was concerned if I had the skill level, so I did something I don’t often do: MAKE A SAMPLE!
I used some leftover worsted wt. cotton on size 6 needles and cast on 61 stitches (29+29+3) to get a fuller effect of the scallop shell pattern and to get some practice on the 4 and 7 stitch decreases that I have never done before. Just finished the 28 row sequence, and it looks great. Very clever pattern and quite knitter friendly – thanks, Jake!
I will definitely continue on with making this up properly.
Thank you – Sioux
unclear on row 5, do you really want p2tog or ssp, if you want ssp does this mean everywhere in the pattern that says
p2tog.
Hi Gordyne,
I would say you should do the p2t0g. Although p2tog and ssp are very similar stitches, they produce stitches that lean in opposite directions. Especially with lace, doing a stitch that leans in the opposite direction may affect how the lace looks. I hope this answers your question!
Happy knitting,
Oscar
Hi, did something change in the pattern? I see you have the following listed on the website: “Update: Chart + Key Modified on July 31, 2020.” If so, what exactly changed, as I’ve started the project and I’m not sure… Thanks!
Hi Valeria,
Thanks for writing in! We did make a few corrections to the chart! Specifically, on Row 14, the updated chart now ends with k3 instead of k4, and the symbol for k2tog on the wrong side now has instructions that it also means to p2tog on the right side. If you’re working from the written instructions, those were already correct, and you won’t need to change anything if you’re already cruising along without any issues!
Best,
Julianna
I’m a bit confused about the stitch count. With the CO of 119, I am presuming that the center section (the repeat section) repeats 3 x. However, after row 14 (excluding the CO row and the 1st row of purl), I have 116 sts (not 119), but after row 28 I have the correct amount at 119 sts. Additionally, after row 13, I have 123 (not 155) and after row 27, I have 123 as well. (However, I do have 155 sts after row 9 and 23.). And I end up with 119 sts after row 28 so it seems like I end up with the correct count. I’ve included my stitch count below. Any insight on what I’m doing wrong with my calculations?
Row: sections=total sts.
28: 21+29×3+11=119
27: 22+30×3+11=123
26: 27+34×3+10=139
25: 27+34×3+10=139
24: 31+38×3+10=155
23: 31+38×3+10=155
22: 27+34×3+10=139
21: 27+34×3+10=139
20: 24+30×3+2=116
19: 24+30×3+2=116
18: 34+33×3+1=134
17: 34+33×3+1=134
16: 32+31×3+1=126
15: 32+31×3+2=127
14: 30+28×3+2=116
13: 31+30×3+2=123
12: 32+34×3+5=139
11: 32+34×3+5=139
10: 33+38×3+8=155
9: 33+38×3+8=155
8: 29+34×3+8=139
7: 29+34×3+8=139
6: 25+30×3+8=123
5: 25+30×3+8=123
4: 25+33×3+11=135
3: 25+33×3+11=135
2: 23+31×3+11=127
1: 23+31×3+11=127
Purl row = 119
CO = 119
Hi TK,
Thank you so much for getting in touch and letting us know about this error! We took a closer look at the stitch counts, and although there were a few discrepancies, for the most part your calculations were spot on, and bravo for putting in so much work. You can now find the stitch counts at the end of every row in the written pattern above so you can always stay on track! We apologize for any confusion, and thank you again for catching this!
Best,
Julianna
Hello,
My daughter and I are looking forward to doing this pattern together. My daughter is left-handed and I am right handed. How can I help her adapt this pattern for a left-handed person? Can she just follow the instructions and make what is essentially a mirror image version of this? Thank you. We love your patterns and your yarn.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, we don’t have instructions for converting this pattern to left-handed knitting; however, she may have an easier time following the chart and simply reversing the direction of the rows!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
What a lovely pattern, would be wonderful for spring. Thank you for sharing this pattern, looking forward to knitting it. The pattern looks a challenge but I don’t mind that, it’ll keep my mind off COVID-19. Lovely design 😀.
Knitting has been my go-to for the past 4-5, it’s the only thing that stops me going stir-crazy.
Lisa from aus
This is a gorgeous wrap! I am interested to know if the pattern is reversible, or does the back look totally different from the front?
Hi Melinda,
Thank you so much for the kind words! The back of this stitch does look different from the front, but not drastically so. The shells themselves look the same on both sides, but the area between the shells, which you can see in our pictures is filled in with purl stitches, is instead filled in with knit stitches on the wrong side. The result is that the shells don’t stand out from the background quite as strongly, but it’s still pleasing and not too obviously different!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you so much for being so responsive to our questions. I’ve been practicing the dec7 while waiting for the yarn. Sometimes i get it, some times I don’t.
Is there an East way to unknit those cast off stitches?
Hi Ruth,
Thanks for writing in! We’re always happy to help knitters succeed with our projects! I’m afraid there isn’t an easy way to take out a dec7, especially if you are using a sticky yarn like mohair and silk Tussock. I suggest simply reversing the stitch by un-passing each stitch from the center stitch and placing them back on the needles one at a time!
Best,
Julianna
I’m happy to say that I’ve mastered this pattern! It’s a real joy to knit. Certainly not boring. I found that placing markers between each repeat and writing the pattern out on index cards helped me stay on track.
I’m making it in Linen Quill. A lovely shade of peach. It’s to be a gift for my Dean when I retire in January. Thanks for this. I’m a 50 year knitter and this pattern taught me new techniques.
I am really enjoying this challenging project but I think there is a mistake in the written instructions. For Row 14 it states that you knit to the last 30 stitches. But if you count the number of stitches needed it should be 32 stitches. I had trouble with the first time through and then counted the stitches out. Am I correct??
Hi Kim,
Thank you so much for getting in touch and letting us know about this error! We took a closer look at the stitch counts and it looks like you are correct and it should be 32 not 30 stitches. We apologize for any confusion, and thank you again for catching this!
All the best,
Gianna
Do you think this would look good in a colourful speckled or variegated yarn?
HI Kacey,
Thanks for reaching out! I think this pattern would look very pretty with a colorful speckled or variegated yarn!
All the best,
Gianna
Dear all and Purl Soho,
Hallo from a snowy and cold Cambridge, England.
My mathematical genius has let me down on row 21 of the seashell pattern. No matter what I do, I can’t get to the last 24 stitches, I get to the last 18 stitches every time. Can someone help me?
9+24+24+24+24 = 105.
123-105=118
Help!!!
Carol
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out, I am happy to help! Did you have the 123 stitches going into Row 21? Also keep in mind for row 21 you will work over 10 stitches (don’t forget to count the yo!) then you will begin the section within the asterisk, starting at the * you will work a total of 28 stitches including yo and repeat that section of 28 stitches until you reach the last 24! I would recommend writing row 21 out in long hand and check off each step as you go to insure you are working all the necessary stitches and yo in that repeat section.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
So sorry if this is a dumb question, but I see the pattern chart shows “no stitch” but the written notes don’t mention that.
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out! The chart shows the “no stitch” so you can visualize the lace pattern within the chart! We don’t include that in the written pattern since “no stitch” is not part of the instructions, just something to assist you visually!
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
another question! I am confused on DEC4. how is this different than S1K1? Is there a video to reference?
is it that the 3 stitches on the left needle go over the 1st stitch on the left needle & then I knit?
Did Michelle’s question get answered anywhere. I too need help with the decrease 4. It seems too easy! I have done a practice swatch to see how this stitch works. I can get the decrease of 3 on my swatch but it looks a little “funky”
Help!
Hi Pat,
Thanks for reaching out! There are two variations for the DEC4 (DECREASE 4) the Right Slanting and Left Slanting! So make sure you are doing the right variation depending on where you are in the pattern! For the Right Slanting version you will Pass the second stitch on the left needle over the first stitch on the left needle as you would to bind off, repeat this step with the following 2 stitches on the left needle, knit the stitch on the left needle as usual, 3 total stitches decreased! For the Left Slanting you will slip 4 stitches purlwise with yarn in back from the left needle to the right needle, you will then pass the second stitch on the right needle over the first stitch on the right needle as you would to bind off. Then repeat this step with the following 2 stitches on the right needle. Slip the first stitch on the right needle back onto the left needle and knit it, a total of 3 stitches decreased!
I hope this helps, please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi, there! I don’t think my original comment posted so I’m trying again. I want to make this seashell wrap with a gorgeous light worsted yarn. Obviously, to get the lacy look, I would have to go up several size needles. Is there a size you you would recommend? Like a 10 US, maybe? Thank you!
Hi Leah,
Thanks for reaching out! I think this would look very cool in a worsted weight! I would recommend working a few gauge swatches in the stitch pattern with a US 10 or even an 11 or 12 to see which you like the best! You can adjust the gauge and the pattern from there.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thank you, Gianna! Happy Holidays!!
Hi, there! It’s Leah again. Okay, so I decided to go with size 11 US needles and it looks and feels right. The only problem is I want to knit a scarf instead of a wrap, usingh either 32 or 61 stitches CO. That said, how could I work that out since the pattern seems to be perfectly mapped out for a 119 stitch CO, with the repeats (k2, p1 6 times, 3 times etc within the repeats) including the pretty edge stitches before and after each repeat. I’ve tried the CO of 31 like you mentioned to someone above, but then I lose the edging. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!
Hi Leah,
Thanks for reaching out! The stitch pattern actually works over a multiple 29 + 3 stitches for the cast on so that may be what is causing you to lose the edging! I believe the comment above may have been a slight typo since 31 stitches wouldn’t work for the multiple but 32 or 61 stitches should!
I hope this helps but please feel free to reach out with any more questions, I am happy to help!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m asking from Germany. First of all, thank you very much for the wonderful pattern. But could you please tell me what ‘no stitch’ in the chart means.
Thank you for helping me.
Hi Margot,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! Basically when it says “no stitch” in a chart it just means you move directly onto the next instruction! You can find out more information about this in our lovely new tutorial Reading A Chart tutorial!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you for this and many other great patterns that I have saved to my files. I have some Tussock in Wild Guava that I’m going to pair with some hand dyed lace weight yarn that I did in shades of coral and orange. Can’t wait to see how it looks knitted up. Will probably try a couple of sizes of needles to see which will work best, then I’m off to another project.
Finished a sweater in Linen Quill in Cobalt and just love that yarn!
Hi Peggi,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! That sounds like a beautiful combination, please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this pattern. I am an advanced beginner knitter (finished your Falling Snow scarf this fall – came out spectacularly – and now working on an all over colorwork sweater) but have never done anything but knitting and purling. Do you think this would be too challenging for me? Thanks!
Hi Holly!
Thanks for reaching out! I love this pattern too (I’ve knitted it myself), and I think you could certainly handle it as an advanced beginner. The techniques you’ll need for this pattern are yarn over (yo), knit two together (k2tog), purl two together (p2tog), slip slip knit (ssk), and the DECREASE 4 and DECREASE 7 (which are explained in the pattern Notes). We have tutorials on our website for these stitches that you can find here
Having knit this piece myself, and considering that you might be new to lacework, I would recommend knitting up a little gauge swatch to test the pattern out first and see how you like it before committing to the larger project. You could cast on 61 stitches for your swatch, which will give you two pattern repeats to work. I’d also strongly recommend using a smooth yarn rather than something fuzzy like a mohair; the mohair can make it more difficult to see the stitches clearly and can make pulling back work particularly challenging in the event of a mistake.
I hope this helps, but please me know if you have any other questions!
Take care,
Kelsey
Hello! Does this pattern lie flat or does it curl up?
Thank you for the lovely pattern!
Hi Jo,
Thanks for reaching out! There might be some curling of the edges with wear, but I’d recommend blocking it out to help encourage the piece to lay flat. Blocking will also really help those seashells to pop!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy Knitting!
Kelsey
Just want to say…I LOVE,LOVE,LOVE Jake Canton’s patterns! This is beautiful. I am thinking if knitting it…
Barbara
Hi Barbara!
That’s so lovely to hear, and we completely agree! I’ve made it myself, and I hope you enjoy knitting it as much as I did!
Take care and Happy Knitting!
Kelsey
I really like the look of your Santolina yarn. Will it work with this pattern?
Hi Margot,
Thanks for reaching out! You could absolutely use the Santolina with the Seashell Lace Wrap! You’ll get a different feel than you would from the Tussock because of the difference in fibers, but I think the pattern would look beautiful in Santolina. The Santolina will give you some beautiful stitch definition, and the finished wrap will still be very light and airy! I’d just make sure to knit up a gauge swatch before you begin your wrap, to ensure that you’re using the appropriate needles to get the gauge called for in the pattern. You can check out our tutorial All About Gauge in case you need a refresher!
Warmly,
Kelsey
What a lovely, lovely patron!
I would like to add this patron to the KnitCompanion app for keeping track of my work on it. I found how to add the chart as pdf.
Is it also possible to get the written patron as pdf?
I would like to add this to the App too to make knit easier.
Grtz. Arda
Hi Arda,
Thanks for reaching out! To get the pattern as a pdf, you simply will click on the print icon, and once it opens the printing page, instead of pressing print, you will press PDF! From there you can download the PDF of the pattern!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi There:
Does anyone have any tips to share about keeping the yo stitches the same size, the yo stitch from purl to knit looks visibly smaller than the yo from purl to purl.
Thanks a million!
Clara
Hi Clara,
Thank you for your excellent question! For evening out yarn over stitch size, I recommend wrapping the yarn over stitch from purl to knit in the clockwise direction, which will position the stitch on your needle in a way that makes the resulting eyelet much more equal in size than if you were to wrap in the normal counter-clockwise direction. This clockwise wrap will mount the yarn over in a funky way, but if you trust the process, everything should even out nicely!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Could I use your Line Weight yarn for this?
Hi Jane,
That’s a great question! You could absolutely use Line Weight for this pattern. You will need 3 skeins to complete this wrap. Hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella