Knit Linen Market Bag
Now banned in eight states, including New York and California, single-use plastic bags are going the way of DDT and CFCs… And good riddance!
How painless, when the alternative to plastic bags is simply an opportunity for beauty. Our Knit Linen Market Bag will make you wonder what in the world were we all thinking!
Don’t let its elegance fool you. Knit up in our fine but super hardy Field Linen, this tote is machine washable and as tough as nails. Yes, throw in a bunch of leeks, a watermelon, and a bag of potatoes!
To make it, you knit up a stockinette rectangle, which becomes a nice, flat bottom for support. You pick up around its edges and knit the rest of the bag in the round, following a simple two-round lace pattern. Finish it off with tidy I-Cord edging and straps!
You’ll just need two skeins of Field Linen (we used gorgeous Galapagos Teal) to make your tote. Two skeins equals one bag that will last a lifetime? We like that math!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoKnitLinenMarketTote, and #PurlSohoFieldLinen. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Field Linen, 100% linen. Each skein is 295 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 403 yards required. We used the color Galapagos Teal.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 16- or 20-inch circular needles
- A set of US 4 (3.5 mm) double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Crochet hook size D or E (3.25 or 3.5 mm)
- Scrap yarn for provisional cast on
Gauge
26 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
21 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in lace stitch pattern
Size
- Finished Circumference: Approximately 23 inches
- Finished Height: 13 inches
- Base of Bag: 4 inches wide x 9 inches long
- Strap Width: ¾ inches
- Strap Length: 22 inches
NOTE: These dimensions are after blocking, before use, as the height tends to grow with use.
Notes
Construction
You will make this bag by first knitting the Base flat, then picking up around the Base and knitting the Body of the bag in the round.
Slip Stitches
Slip all slip stitches purlwise unless indicated otherwise in pattern.
Provisional Cast On
For assistance, including how to put live stitches back onto needles, please visit our Provisional Cast-On: A Two-Step Method Tutorial.
Pattern
Base
Using a Provisional Cast On (see Notes), cast on 26 stitches.
Set-Up Row (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1 (see Notes) with yarn in front, purl to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Slip 1 with yarn in back, knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until Base measure 9 inches from cast-on edge (73 total rows).
Body
Pick Up + Knit
With right side facing you, turn piece 90 degrees clockwise and with working yarn, pick up and knit 36 stitches evenly along left selvage. [62 stitches]
With right side facing you and cast-on edge at top, slip 25 cast-on stitches onto left needle (see Notes), starting with top left corner stitch. With working yarn and right needle, knit 25 cast-on stitches. [87 stitches]
With right side still facing you, turn work 90 degrees clockwise and pick up and knit 36 stitches along remaining selvage. [123 total stitches]
Continue Even
With right side facing you, place marker and join for working in the round.
Round 1: *Knit 2 together (k2tog), yarn over (yo), k1, repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: *P1, yo, purl 2 together (p2tog), repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until piece measures 13 inches from picked-up edge, or until desired height of bag, ending with Round 2.
Knit 2 rounds in stockinette.
Bind-Off Row: Bind off 32 stitches knitwise, place removable stitch marker (pm) on last stitch bound off, bind off 24 stitches, place unique marker on last stitch bound off, bind off 37 stitches, pm on last stitch bound off, bind off 24 stitches, pm on last stitch bound off, bind off 6 stitches (this should be to end of round). Cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.
Straps
Using double pointed needles and a Provisional Cast On, cast on 5 stitches.
With right side facing you and starting at the unique marker, work an Attached I-Cord along the bind-off edge for 37 stitches, ending at the next marked stitch. Please visit our Attached I-Cord Tutorial for complete instructions.
Now work an unattached I-Cord for 22 inches for first Strap.
Rejoin the Attached I-Cord at next marked stitch, 24 stitches from previous stitch marker, and work it to the next marked stitch, for 38 stitches.
Work an unattached I-Cord for 22 inches for second Strap.
To complete the Straps, remove the scrap yarn from the provisional cast on and place stitches onto a double pointed needle. Hold the two double pointed needles parallel and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the Strap I-cord to the Attached I-Cord.
Finishing
Weave in ends and wet block. Note that the bag circumference may pull in so be sure to wet block to the dimensions given above in the Size section.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I love this design and will make one soon – seems more practical than the typical “net” design. Thank you. I do wish you would post a picture of one containing “a bunch of leeks, a watermelon, and a bag of potatoes” though! I’m imagining a bag dangling somewhere around knee-level 😉
Hi Quinn,
I’m so glad to hear that you’re excited about our Market Bag and looking forward to making one!
Best,
Cassandra
In the pick up and knit section should the number of stitches be 72 not 62?
Hi Pat,
Thank you so much for checking in with us! I’ve taken a look at the pattern and 62 stitches is correct. You’ll start by casting on 26 and then pick up 36 more stitches, for a total of 62. We’re always happy to take the time to check our patterns and appreciate you reaching out!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
I can’t figure out how to increase when I’m picking up the stitches for the pick up and knit part so I end up with the correct amount of stitches. Maybe I’m just not experienced enough and I can’t find anything to show me how. Can you tell me how to do it. Thanks so much
Loretta
Hi Loretta,
Thanks for reaching out! There’s no need to increase when picking up the stitches on the sides of your rectangle! The rectangle is 73 rows long, and you will be picking up 36 stitches along each long side, so you will only need to pick up one stitch in every other row, following the method in our Picking Up Stitches tutorial.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I would like to make 4 of these as gifts, so all the same color is fine. Does the pattern use up all the 2nd skein or is there some left over so that I don’t have to buy 8 skeins?
Hi Audrey,
Thanks for writing in! Each Market Bag will require approximately 400 yards (we used 403 for ours), so you should be able to buy 6 skeins to make four totes. I hope this helps – what a lovely gift idea!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Greetings, and thank you for this free pattern!
May I make a thicker i-cord strap for this market bag? I would like handles about 1.5 times the thickness of the shown pattern. The applied part of the i-cord could be the original or a thicker dimension, I would find both amenable.
As an aside, I have spent the last 8 weeks knitting almost to the exclusion of all else. It has soothed my soul as I completed (so far) three adult sweaters and one more half done. I am getting to the end of my stash, which is fine because it means I finally can buy more yarn. I like to learn one or more new skills with each garment I knit. I have recently learned to knit and sew on a button band, the three needle bind-off, a provisional cast-on, an applied 4-stitch i-cord, the “correct” way (according to VeryPink Knits) to weave in strands, and paired decreases on both sides of the fabric in a pieced raglan. i completed my first circular knit garment and learned the knit stitch in continental knitting. There is nothing I relish more than sitting and knitting to music or the news. There is no phase of the process I like more than assembling the knit pieces.
Your website is my absolute favorite of all the places I visit. It is elegantly designed, visually pleasing and adeptly written. You show your patterns and yarns to great advantage. Thank you for your work. Some day I will visit your store (my daughter lives in Brooklyn).
Hi Deena,
Thank you for reaching out and for your kind words! I am so happy to hear how much joy knitting is bringing you during this time and how you are pushing yourself to learn new techniques with every garment! Making something you can use and wear is such a unique pleasure, and it really makes our day at Purl Soho to know that our patterns are exciting and encouraging you. We hope you’ll be able to stop by one day and visit with us!
As far as the Knit Market Bag goes, absolutely, modifying for thicker straps shouldn’t be too difficult! I would recommend trying the Attached I-Cord section with 7 stitches instead of 5, decreasing to 5 stitches for the unattached I-Cord- this will give you a thicker strap and matching i-cord edging. Another option would be to simply work the Attached I-Cord all around the top of the bag, and pick up and knit a wide flat strap. You might want to hand-stitch a little reinforcement running stitch for the strap if you choose this option, much like you might see on the inside of a traditional tote. I hope this is helpful and would love to hear what you end up doing!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
these are just comments that don’t need a response.
this pattern appeals to be, except:
-it looks as though the handle needs to be bigger, stronger.
-i wonder how much it would really hold. it seems pretty stretchy without my filling it to its maximum capcity.
Hi Delia,
Thank you so much for writing in and sharing your thoughts about the Market Bag! The linen is really surprisingly strong, and the fabric is stretchy enough to carry a lot (or a little)!
Warmly,
Cassandra
Hello — Just a comment about your PDFs:
First, I appreciate that I can make a PDF . . . thank you . . .
but it would be fantastic to be able to make a PDF that doesn’t include all the photos of the various colors of yarn. I don’t have an advanced PDF reader that allows me to delete pages or scale them small so I don’t waste paper. This bag is also meant to reduce waste and use of plastic! Just a thought — to have the option to just print the materials, gauge info and the actual pattern.
Thank you for providing us with such creative patterns.
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for mentioning this! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column and you can follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete any parts of the pattern that you don’t want to print. If you go to the image icon you can choose to scale or totally remove (choose 0%) all of the images to save on paper. I hope this helps, and alway feel free to reach out with any questions!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
do you have a crochet version of this bag or can you direct me to other crochet bags besides the market oneyou are showing ?
Thanks
Hi Jill,
Thank you for reaching out about this! We do have a crochet pattern for a bag, also in Field Linen, two in fact! While not exactly the same as this pattern, they’d be great options for someone who loves to crochet. There’s the Market Bag in Field Linen and also the Crocheted Linen Grocery Tote
I hope this helps, happy crocheting!
Cassandra
Since this is a “bottom/up” bag you can make it at tall or short as suits your height!
Hi Betty,
You’re absolutely right! Thanks so much for writing in!
Best,
Cassandra
Love the bag, but colour is not available. Whaddup?
Let me know.
Hi Suzanne,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m so sorry, unfortunately it looks like we’re sold out of Field Linen in Galapagos Teal! Currently we don’t have an ETA on this particular color, and things are taking a bit longer than expected these days. I would recommend that you sign up for notifications by entering your email on the Field Linen page- this way you’ll be the first to know as soon as it is back in stock!
Best,
Gaby
Could this be made in your cotton pure and if so what adjustments would you suggest
Hi Karen,
Thank you for writing in! I love your idea and think Cotton Pure would make a great market bag! Because Cotton Pure is a tiny bit thicker than Field Linen, your gauge may be slightly bigger, so I would recommend trying a gauge swatch using a US 3 first. We would love to hear how it goes!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Love this bag. I think I would also like to try worsted wool on big needles, boil it and have a sturdy felted bag.
Thank you for your inspirations, especially when we are still at home staying safe. They make each day joyful–something to think about and do rather than whining about what we can’t do.
Ellen Collins
I would love to make this beg but afraid that Iam not understanding the picking up stitches section
Hi Esty,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m so glad to hear you’re thinking of giving this pattern a try! Picking up stitches can seem a bit tricky at first but we have a helpful series of videos on Picking Up Stitches to help you get acquainted with the process. And thank you for reminding us that this may be an unfamiliar technique- the link to these tutorials will be added to the pattern above for anyone else who might need them!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
What could I do with past season’s organic linen “sparrow”. I could double “sparrow “ perhaps. What’d you think? Or just a 2 or 3 needle?? Corona brain is failing me Need advice
Hi Anne,
Thank you for reaching out! It sounds like Sparrow is a bit heavier than our Field Linen, but could make a good substitution! Your gauge may be a bit different as well, so if you go with Sparrow I recommend working a gauge swatch on a smaller needle to start out, perhaps a US 2 or 3 as you mentioned.
Happy knitting!
Gaby
Hello,
Would Linen Quill work for this bag? Does it have similar strength/durability etc?
Thanks!
Sarah
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in with this question! Although Linen Quill does have some strength due to its linen content, the majority alpaca and wool in this yarn will stretch quite a bit. I recommend going plant based for this project, using either our Field Linen or Cotton Pure for a durable tote than can handle groceries and a machine washing! I hope that helps!
Happy knitting,
Gaby
Do the double pointed needles need to be a size 4 also? They’re not listed in the supply list. Thanks!
Hi Carrie,
Thank you so much for catching this! Yes, you will use Size 4 Double Pointed Needles for the straps In fact, if you don’t have them, you can use the 16 or 20 inch circular needle you used for the body of the bag – simply slide your stitches to the other end of the needle at the end of every row, just as you would if it was a double pointed needle! We will be adding this to the materials list shortly, and thank you again for pointing this out!
Best,
Julianna
Hi I love your patterns and I’ve already made your string grocery bags . Love them , however, I’m based in the UK and the cost of buying the yarn plus shipping is a little on the expensive side. My quest is – is there an equivalent yarn I can buy in the UK ?
Hi Sue,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for reaching out! I’m afraid I don’t know of any specific yarns available on your side of the pond, but you could use any fingering weight cotton or linen yarn for this pattern, or even a cotton linen blend!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I am stuck on picking up stitches after knitting base with #4 circular needles.
-With right side facing, on knit side, with cast on stitches at bottom, turn 90°, am i picking up and adding to my original 26 on circular needle or with a separate needle? Demo available? THANK YOU
Hi Judy
Thanks for writing in! You are picking up stitches along the vertical edge with the same needle the 26 live stitches are on. You will be picking up 36 stitches in the slipped stitches on the selvedge edge, undo your provisional cast on (25 stitches) place those live stitches on the needle next, and pick up another 36 on the other selvedge edge. You will then join in the round and start the lace pattern. I hope this helps!
Happy Knitting
Jessica
This is where I am stuck. The pattern says to pick up 26 provisional cast on stitches, but we cast in 26. I am confused. Please help.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! When you are picking up stitches from a provisional cast on, since the new stitches are coming from the bottom of the first row instead of the top where you normally knit, there is always a “half stitch” at one or both ends of the row that must be included in order to get the same number of stitches you started with. Since this bag requires an odd number of stitches for the mesh pattern, we omitted this half stitch and picked up just 25 stitches instead of 26.
I hope that clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
Greetings,
I’m swatching the stockinette in Field Linen and have gone down two needle sizes and still don’t get gauge (swatch is too wide and short). I have what might be dumb questions:
Should I be washing and drying the swatch, or perhaps wet blocking it? Is the base supposed to be 4 inches x 9 inches (26 stitches x 73 rows) while knitting or after blocking?
And, related, should I knit the base and wash and dry it before picking up stitches to create the circular sides of the bag? How did you make it?
Did you use the same size needles for the base, sides and i-cord? This is a gift so I want to get it right the first time. Thanks for your help.
And, not necessarily for publication, in your earlier response, you seem to say that to make the handles thicker I should make the attached i-cord 7 stitches and the unattached (handles) 5 stitches? Wouldn’t the opposite — 7 stitches for the handles — make the handles thicker than the attached i-cord? Again many thanks for your work.
Hi Deena,
Thanks for writing in! Our gauge is measured after blocking, so if your pre-blocking gauge is fairly close to ours, I would try wet blocking your swatch to see if you can stretch it a bit longer, which should tighten up your stitch gauge a bit. We wet blocked our sample and gauge swatch, which I would probably recommend before gifting so that the finished bag looks as crisp and beautiful as possible, but Field Linen responds wonderfully to machine washing, so you could certainly throw your swatch in with your next load of laundry after wet blocking it, just to see how it turns out! There’s no need to block the base before picking up the stitches – as long as your blocked swatch matches our gauge, you can go ahead and knit everything as written.
Yes, we used the same size needles for every step of the bag! And yes, you are correct that if you want a thicker edging and handles, you should work a 7 stitch attached i-cord for the edging and a 7-stitch unattached i-cord for the handles. I think that would give the most consistent finish!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Many thanks!
Hello! I’m at the point of picking up stitches, which is something I’ve done many times so that’s fine, but I can’t make heads or tails of the idea that I’m to turn the work clock wise 90° and pick up on the left vertical edge? If holding the work with the knit side towards me, that puts the working yarn on the opposite side from where I need to pick up stitches?
Hi Marianne,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you might need to knit one more row before you start picking up stitches! The base should end with Row 2, which is a right side, or knit, row, so that your yarn is attached at the left edge of your work when you are looking at the right side. You will then rotate clockwise and begin picking up stitches along the long side which is right next to where the yarn is attached.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
It did, thank you! I should have figured that out myself but sometimes the old noggin gets stuck. Thanks for being available to help!
Greetings,
A quick question if I may: Are you supposed to knit loosely when working lace / mesh? I am using a smaller size needle on my left on this bag, and it’s helping, but I’m still having quite a time with tightness in the knit 2- and purl 2 togethers. And I must say, thank heavens for lifelines. Your advice will be appreciated.
Hi Deena
Thanks for writing in! When you are knitting the lace/mesh section you should maintain the same tension you normally knit with. The yo is situated right next to the k2tog or p2tog, so these may seem like they are a little loose, but might just be pulling the yo smaller. I think when you block the bag, this will even it all out! I hope this helps and happy knitting!
Jessica
I just want to echo that working with the linen is quite a challenge. It splits so easily, and when you are working the lace stitch god forbid you make a mistake and have to pull stitches out. It’s beautiful, but hats off to the lady who wants to make 4 of them for friends! I’m keeping mine in the family LOL. I should say that somehow I ended up working this on #1 needles, so maybe that’s harder? Still I would anticipate that your tension has to be spot on, and you’ll still get splits, even with larger needles.
I am just starting this lovely project with the teal linen. My question is, why pick up 25 of the cast-on stitches, instead of the 26 that are actually cast on?
Robin
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! When you are picking up stitches from a provisional cast on, since the new stitches are coming from the bottom of the first row instead of the top where you normally knit, there is always a “half stitch” at one or both ends of the row that must be included in order to get the same number of stitches you started with. Since this bag requires an odd number of stitches for the mesh pattern, we omitted this half stitch and picked up just 25 stitches instead of 26.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks Julianna–that helps and I think it will be more clear when I actually do the pick up.
Hello,
I made this bag and now have request for a similar one but would like to make a bigger bag- maybe 3 inches wider. I am wondering if I can follow the instructions for the base and start to increase the number of stitches after I join in the round.? If so, how many stitches should I increase in order to increase the width by 3 inches ? Appreciate your help and advice.
Thanks in advance,
MayLing
Hi Mayling
That’s a great question! I think the easiest way to make this work would be to widen the base of the entire bag. Assuming you are getting the 6.5 stitches per inch, you could cast on another 20 stitches, for a total of 46 and follow the base pattern as written. When you come to the pick up + knit point, you are picking up almost half the number of rows you knit. For example: 73 rows would be 36 stitches, the cast on pick up would be 45, and other side 36. As long as you end up with an odd number of stitches for the mesh section you should be fine. You might also need to adjust the area where your handles are. I hope this helps you out!
Happy knitting
Jessica
Hello Jessica,
Thanks so much for your advice. I will definitely try your recommendation to start with a bagger base and increase the number of stitches from there. My assumption is that the pattern should be fine as long as I pick up an odd number of stitches ?. Will also need to adjust the position of the straps accordingly- will cross the bridge when I come to it?
Thanks,
MayLing
I love the look of this bag but am having trouble with my gauge. I have done multiple gauges and have been able to find the right needle, but when I finish my base, I have 73 stitches but it’s only measuring around 7.5″. Is it more important to stick with the 73 stitches or knit the base until is 9″?
And, if I stick to 73 stitches for the base, when I wet block do I just stretch it to get to 9 inches?
I am determined to make this bag! I have restarted the project 4-5 times (to my embarrassment) and I am an intermediate knitter, so am wondering why I am having so many issues.
Thank you!
Hi Wendy
Thanks so much for writing in! I think with wet blocking your base will grow a bit, and be closer to the 9 inches, and be just fine! But, if you continued knitting the base beyond the 73 rows, you could make this work too. The number of selvedge stitches will increase and you would need to pick up more stitches along each side and the overall size of the bag would be larger. Just remember when you pick up stitches your overall number needs to be odd to work in the mesh pattern. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting
Jessica
Thanks for the lovely pattern. I have some beautiful linen yarn in my stash that I can finally put to a worthy project! I do have a question: why, and how, do you cast on 26 stitches in the provisional cast-on for the base but only pick up 25 for the body of the bag? Thank you?
Hi Jessica,
Great question! When you are picking up stitches from a provisional cast on, since the new stitches are coming from the bottom of the first row instead of the top where you normally knit, there is always a “half stitch” at one or both ends of the row that must be included in order to get the same number of stitches you started with. Since this bag requires an odd number of stitches for the mesh pattern, we omitted this half stitch and picked up just 25 stitches instead of 26.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I have 2 skeins of the Cattail Silk – could I use for this bag? Love the shape !
Hi Judith,
Great question! While I think Cattail Silk would be beautiful for this bag, it unfortunately isn’t very sturdy, especially compared to super durable yarns like linen or cotton. However, if you don’t mind lining your bag with fabric and using it for less strenuous tasks than carrying groceries, it would be just gorgeous! I would also recommend knitting a gauge swatch in pattern to make sure you will be happy with Cattail Silk on US 4 needles. It is slightly thinner than Field Linen, so you might prefer it on a US 3!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
This bag came out great! I calculated it took 19,998 stitches to knit. The bag turned out exactly the dimensions stated in the pattern so I have not blocked it. Thanks for all your help.
Hi Deena
So glad it all worked out, and that you’re happy with it!
Best
Jessica
Hello, if I’m knitting and purling 2tog, won’t the number of stitches per row decrease until the bag is tiny at the top?
GJ
Hi GJ
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern pairs Yarn Overs with decreases to maintain the same number of stitches until you reach the correct height of the the bag. We have a great Yarn Over tutorial to help explain it in detail. In the mesh section of the bag the pattern is as follows, Round 1: *Knit 2 together (k2tog), yarn over (yo), k1, repeat from * to end of round. Round 2: *P1, yo, purl 2 together (p2tog), repeat from * to end of round. So each time you K2tog it is followed by adding a stitch (yo) or on the following row the yo is followed by the p2tog. I hope this helps you out and happy knitting!
Best
Jessica
The provisional cast-on is new to me…and seems VERY similar to a cast on. 2 questions:
1. I watched the tutorial and it says to do a few extra ‘chain’ stitches for a provisional cast-on. Should I do the chain stitches for this provisional cast on?
Thanks!
Katie
Hi Katie,
Thanks for writing in! There is a cast on called a Crochet Cast On that is almost identical to a One-Step Provisional Cast On. The only difference is that a Crochet Cast On is worked in the main yarn and is intended to be a permanent part of the knitted item, while a Provisional Cast On is worked in a different yarn so that you can remove it later, revealing the live stitches at the edge. The extra chain stitches are optional, but I find them helpful when it’s time to remove the cast on, so I would recommend including them!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
No need to reply. The bag looks gorgeous. I’m sure the colour has something to do with it. The pattern instructions are fantastic. My new-to-knitting friend will find this easy to understand but even better, pretty easy to actually do once she picks the stitches up from the base. Thanks for this. Thanks very much.
Hi PurlSoho, I’ve got three skeins of Purl’s beautiful Lantern yarn that I picked up at the California warehouse. Could lantern work? Thank you!
Hi, and thanks for getting in touch! Lantern is significantly thicker than Field Linen, and also has much less yardage per skein. You could knit a gauge swatch in pattern to determine how many stitches to cast on to modify the pattern for the heavier weight yarn, but I don’t think you would have enough yardage for a similar-sized bag. However, stay tuned – I don’t want to give anything away, but we have a project coming out very soon that might be what you are looking for!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you, Julianna! I did just see the new post with purse/bag/tote pattern using the Lantern yarn and am definitely going to tackle it! Yay!
The handles are the only thing I don’t like about this pattern. Put two cans of green beans, a small bag of rice, a quart of milk in the bag then hang it on your arm and I think you’ll understand what I’m talking about. But that is the only thing I would change as it’s a very elegant utilitarian bag.
Hi Cecelia,
Thanks for writing in! Several customers have suggested knitting a 7 stitch i-cord for the edging and handles, which would make them a little thicker and more comfortable when carrying heavy items. You could also try knitting the handles as flat stockinette stitch instead of i-cord, and then sewing them shut around some fluffy bulky-weight yarn to add a little more cushiness!
Best,
Julianna
I am knitting my second of this pattern. Love it! I have found a ‘hack’ with my ChiaoGoo circular needle set that makes the work go much easier and faster. On the body of the bag I am using a size 4 on the right needle (so the bag is making up with a 4). However, I am using a size 2 needle on the left, which leaves more space to insert the right needle on those k2tog and p2togs. Everything is more comfortable.
Brilliant idea, because I am having so much trouble getting my needle under and into the yarn. This linen yard splits so easily! This “simple” pattern is very deceiving!
I love Purl Soho!! Just today I received the field linen in Galapagos Teal and it truly is gorgeous. Is there any way to do the bottom using a method other than the provisional cast on???
Hi Joline,
Thank you so much for the kind words! If you prefer, you could start with a standard cast on and then pick up stitches from the cast on edge instead. This will result in a slight ridge along that edge on the inside of the bag, but as long as you pick up the same number of stitches that you cast on, the rest of the bag will turn out just like ours!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi,
I have a few questions about your pattern:
1. For the base, do the 73 rows total include the set-up row?
2. During the pick up and knit part, what do the stitches in parenthesis mean? 62, 87, and 123? I couldn’t figure out how you got those numbers 🙂
3. During the pick up and knit part, where it says “slip 25 cast on stitches…”, should it be 26? Because originally we are casting on 26 stitches.
Thank you!
Anjali
Hi Anjali,
Great questions! The 73 rows do include the set-up row – just make sure you end with Row 2, or a right side row, before moving on to the next part of the pattern! The numbers in parentheses refer to the total number of stitches on the needle after picking up each section. For instance, you started with 26 stitches on the needle, and after picking up 36 along the first side, you will have 62 total stitches, after picking up the 25 stitches from the provisional cast on you will have a total of 87 stitches, and so on. When picking up stitches around a square or rectangle like this, I find it very helpful to temporarily place a marker after picking up each side so you don’t have to go back and count all the stitches if you lose your place!
Whenever you are recovering stitches from a provisional cast on, since you are working form the bottom of the stitches, you will always be short one stitch. In many patterns, you will pick up a half stitch from either the beginning or end of the row so that you end up with the same number of stitches you started with, but for our pattern, by skipping this extra stitch, you will end up with the correct number of stitches for the lace in the body of the bag.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
The previous comments seem to be missing. I am interested in making my handles thicker with a 7 stitch Icord rather than a 5 stitch Icord. Where would I put my markers? Thank you.
Hi Mary,
Thank you for bringing this to our attention! We recently updated our website and we are still working out some of the kinks. Missing comments is one of them.
To answer your question, you would still place the markers as the pattern states. Changing the thickness of the i-cord won’t affect the marker placement.
I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Oscar
Do you use two strands of yarn to make the market bag including 2 strands on the i-cord and straps?
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for writing in! No, this entire bag is worked with a single strand of yarn.
Let me know if I can help with anything else!
Happy knitting,
Oscar
When knitting the body of the bag, do you use yarn over knit wise on knit rows and yarn over purl-wise in purl rows? I keep coming out with a lace pattern that looks different from the photos.
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! For this pattern, and most others, you should always work your yarn over in the same manner, no matter whether you are on a knit or purl row. I would suggest checking out our Yarn Over (YO) tutorial to make sure you are wrapping in the correct direction!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have worked the base with 2 needles. At what point do I switch to circular needles?
Thank you
Hi Tana,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest switching to the circular needles after finishing the base when you start the body!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I have enough Sweetgrass yarn left over from my Sand Drift Blanket Bundle. Could I knit this bag using Sweetgrass Yarn?
Thank you
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! You could absolutely use Sweetgrass for this patter! I think that would be a great substitution!
Please let us know how this turns out!
All the best,
Gianna
I am fairly new to knitting so am knitting this with a lot of help from YouTube!
I have finished the base in that it measures 9” but I have only knit 32rows! I don’t feel like I am a particularly “loose” knitter! Do I have to start again And knit tighter?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! Did you work a gauge swatch prior to starting the bag? We always recommend working up a swatch prior to beginning to insure that your are consistent with the pattern or if there are any adjustments that need to be made! If you don’t mind how the fabric is looking you can keep it as is and work less rows to get the right length of the bag!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Unfortunately I did not do a swatch but will definitely do so on my next project!
When you say “ work less rows” does that apply to when I turn it and pick up stitches on the side?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in again! By working less rows I mean for example in the Base section is says to work till you measure 9 inches from cast-on edge (73 total rows). You don’t need to worry about knitting 73 rows, just work as many rows until you measure 9″, which should be less than 73 rows with the gauge you have!
I hope that clarifies things!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi – I’m new to knitting a tote bag – do I need to bind off the base before I pick up and knit the sides? Thank you
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing in! No, you don’t need to bind off the base before picking up the stitches, once you get 9 inches from cast-on edge you can move directly on to BODY PICK UP + KNIT section!
All the best,
Gianna
I am in the PICK UP AND KNIT section. When it says “ slip 25 cast on stitches….” these are the stitches from the provisional cast on? If so, what happens to the 26th stitch?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out! When you are picking up stitches from a provisional cast on, since the new stitches are coming from the bottom of the first row instead of the top where you normally knit, there is always a “half stitch” at one or both ends of the row that must be included in order to get the same number of stitches you started with. Since this bag requires an odd number of stitches for the mesh pattern, we omitted this half stitch and picked up just 25 stitches instead of 26.
I hope that clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
I now have difficulty working mesh patterns that require many K2tog or P2tog stitches, because working those stitches repeatedly hurts my hands. Recently I discovered a substitute stitch sequence that solves my problem.
Applying the sequence to this pattern, instead of the “YO, K2tog” you would work “YO, SL1, K1, psso”. Slip the stitch knitwise.
Instead of the “P2tog, YO” you would work “SL1, P1, psso, YO”.
Slip the stitch purlwise.
Working these sequences takes a second longer than the original stitches, but the added comfort is worth it. The appearance is virtually identical to the original stitches.
I was wondering if it’s possible to make this pattern smaller? I am looking to knit a similar style bag to hold my garden grown garlic for storage. Is there a way I could adapt this pattern?
Hi Kerri,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, this bag is quite easy to adjust by starting with a smaller base! The base as written measures 4 inches by 9 inches, and results in a 23 inch circumference bag. You can adjust the width of the base by casting on fewer stitches, and the length by knitting fewer rows. As long as you make sure you end with a right side row on the base, you can then pick up one stitch for every two rows along the selvages of the base. The body of the bag requires a multiple of 3 stitches, so in the first row, you can add or decrease a stitch as necessary to get to the closest mutiple of 3, and then knit the body of the bag to your desired height.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi Purl Soho team! Can you please add “crochet hook” under materials on this page? I spent a bit of time trying to gather each of the materials listed here which took a bit of extra work because of some supply chain shortages at my local stores. When I finally went to sit down and start, I clicked the link to provisional cast on and learned I need a crochet hook, too, which I don’t have. It would be great to include all materials needed for a project in your posts! This especially helps people who are building out their stashes. Thank you so much for considering.
Hi Hannah,
Thank you for writing in and bringing this to our attention! We typically always include a crochet hook as well as scrap yarn when the pattern requires a Provisional Cast on but it looks like we missed adding that in here! We have now updated the pattern with that information included in the materials list.
So sorry for any inconvenience this has caused!
Warm Regards,
Gianna
Hola Purl Soho,
I love these types of projects, specially for nice gifts. I’ll make a change though as I don’t favour thin straps for carrying heavy things, thus make them some sort similar width to the ones on your ‘ Twill Tote ‘
Warm regards from Italia
(very warm this 22 summer)
Dri
Needs a printer friendly version don’t want to use all my ink to print have tried many ways to print including your suggestion for the desktop version and using the print icon, I don’t think it’s too much to ask for all the PS patterns to have a printer friendly version with no photos
Hi Stephanie,
While we do normally have a way to make a printer friendly version of all our free patterns (using the print icon), I’m afraid that it’s been malfunctioning lately. Our tech team is aware of this issue, and they’re working as fast as they can to fix it! They should be able to resolve it soon, and then you’ll be able to follow our instructions for removing the images again.
All the best,
Lili
I’ve never knit with pure linen before. What is the best way to join the next skein of yarn? Thank you!
Hi Val,
Thanks for reaching out! With yarns that don’t felt together like 100% wool yarn will, we recommend leaving the yarn tails from the old and new skeins as they are and then weaving them in at the end. This is the most secure and invisible way to join a new skein!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!
I am currently making this bag and had a needle mishap. I’m back on track now but I’m not sure where my true BOR is. When I start the bind off/strap making portion of the pattern, where should I start ? Can I use the bottom rectangle as a guide of where to start? Thanks!
Hi Val,
Yes, you can definitely use the base rectangle of your bag to double check where your beginning of round is! First, hold the base with the right side of the fabric facing you and with the edges of the rectangle as such going counter-clockwise: the left selvedge edge of the rectangle is at the top, then the provisional cast-on stitches make up the left side of the rectangle, and finally the right selvedge edge of the rectangle is at the bottom. Your beginning of round will be at the end of the right selvedge edge! I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Cat