Julie Hoover for Purl Soho: Addison
When I go to my closet to pick out a favorite sweater, the first thing I reach for is a boxy pullover. For me, that shape is perfect for any occasion and always feels comfortable. This Addison design falls right into that category.
I used a classic seed stitch pattern to give the fabric an interesting textural feel, but since it’s an all-over pattern, the Addison maintains a minimal look. You knit each piece separately so there is a little bit of seaming involved, but that’s necessary for an oversized fit to hold up over time. You’ll be glad you made the extra effort!
Flax Down and Cashmere Merino Bloom work equally well for this design. Each yarn has a soft halo and beautiful drape, making it hard to decide which one to use. You may need to knit one of each (I sure did!).
Whether you wear your Addison alone or layered over a favorite shirt, it is sure to be what you reach for in your closet! -Julie
Designed for Purl Soho by Julie Hoover. Currently based in Ann Arbor, Michigan, Julie Hoover designs knitwear and makes yarn, for both her own personal label and others. Her work reflects a lifelong passion for clothing and textiles, and her view that knitting is a beautiful way of creating timeless fashion, a thoughtful mix of quality and creativity, intention and care.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoAddison, #PurlSohoFlaxDown, and #PurlSohoCashmereMerinoBloom. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
NOTE: Choose from two different Purl Soho yarns. Each works perfectly for this pattern!
- 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) (9, 9, 10, 10) skeins of Purl Soho’s Flax Down, 43% baby alpaca, 42% extra fine merino, 15% linen. Each skein is 219 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1314 (1314, 1533, 1533, 1752, 1971) yards required. This is Heirloom White, shown above left. (NOTE: We no longer offer Flax Down, but choose from one of our other light worsted/dk weight yarns.)
Or
- 6 (7, 7, 8, 9) (10, 10, 11, 11) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cashmere Merino Bloom, 75% extra fine merino wool, 25% cashmere. Each skein is 219 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1308 (1526, 1526, 1744, 1962, 2180) yards required. This is Heirloom White, shown above left. This is Salt + Pepper, shown above right.
You’ll also need…
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 16-inch circular needle
- US 7, 24-inch circular needle
- US 6 (4 mm), 16-inch circular needle
- Stitch marker
- 2 locking markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- Blocking wires and T-Pins (optional, but recommended)
- Julie Hoover for Purl Soho’s Addison Pattern
Gauge
17 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in Seed Stitch on larger needles
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
42½ (46, 50, 53½, 57½) (61, 65, 68½, 72½)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 42½ (46, 50, 53½, 57½) (61, 65, 68½, 72½) inches
- To fit actual chest circumference of 32–34 (35–37, 39–41, 43–45, 47–49) (50–52, 54–56, 58–60, 62–64) inches with approximately 9–11 inches of ease
- Finished Length From Shoulder To Bottom Edge: 25¼ (25¾, 27¾, 28½, 30½) (31¼, 31½, 31¾, 32¼) inches
- Finished Length From Underarm To Bottom Edge: 15 (15, 16, 16, 17) (17, 17, 17, 17) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 12½ inches
- Length from Center Neck to Cuff: 24¾ (25¾, 26¾, 27½, 28½, 29½) inches
- Finished Length From Underarm To Cuff: 12½ inches
SAMPLE: The sweaters pictured here are Size 46 inches with +12 inches of ease
Pattern
Addison is available as a PDF download.
This beautiful sweater is right up my alley!! Its so pretty, yet simple and I love the drape. My bust measurement is 39” so what size would I select? Also, I love the yarn Understory…how do you think hat would work for this? Thank you!
Hi Donna,
Thank you for the kind words! We recommend choosing a size with 9 to 11 inches of positive ease, so I would suggest knitting the third size, which has a finished chest measurement of 50 inches. Understory would be a great substitute for this pattern! It has wonderful drape and should knit up at the correct gauge, but you should always knit a gauge swatch just to be sure.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Is this pattern suitable for beginners?
Hi Rhonda,
Thanks for reaching out! We don’t rate the difficulty of our patterns because we want people to feel free to try things that are “too hard” for them; we want to encourage people to discover that learning new techniques enriches the process of making; and we don’t want to put people in a box that says, “You can make this but not this.” We do try to describe the skills involved with a pattern so that customers know what they’re getting into, but ultimately, we hope that you will take little leaps into the unknown and find that the satisfaction was worth the challenge! Remember, we’re always here to help!
This sweater is worked flat in pieces, and includes basic knit and purl stitches, seaming, working in the round, picking up stitches, and a Sloped Bind Off over the shoulder and neckline shaping. So long as you are comfortable with all of these techniques, you should able to knit this lovely sweater without issue!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello,
I’m considering using this pattern w/ Purl Soho Linen Quill yarn held double stranded. What do you think? I am just finishing the Mitered Corner blanket w/ Linen Quill, and I love the yarn. I purchased more of the yarn on sale at the CA Purl Soho store recently, and I’m looking to make a sweater using the same concept of holding 2 yarns together and gradually changing the colors to give a gradient effect. I purchased 3 different colors ranging from cream to warm honey to orange. Thoughts on this? I’d appreciate your feedback.
Thanks!
Barbara
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out, and I think that sounds like a wonderful idea! You will have to knit a gauge swatch to make sure it will work correctly for the sweater, but we frequently use Linen Quill doubled on a US 7 at a very similar gauge, so I don’t think you will have any problems obtaining the correct gauge. Since this pullover is worked flat and seamed, I would suggest keeping track of how many rows you work in each color combination so you can make sure the color changes match on the back and front and on each sleeve.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Thank you, Julianna! I think this will be my next project!!! I will definitely let you know how it turns out!
One of my goals for this year is to knit myself a sweater! I love the boxiness of this design, and wanted to get your thoughts on sizing. My bust is 50″, so if I’m reading the description correctly, I’d knit the 61″ size? Thank you for your help!
Hi Mary,
This is a great and exciting goal! You are exactly correct. The size 61″ will give you the lovely boxy fit.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I want to check to make sure I choose the correct size. I measure 40 bust size. I do not want this sweater to fit tightly. Which size should I choose?
Thank you,
Chris
Hello Christina,
Thank you for reaching out! I would recommend knitting up the size 50″.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
I noticed my gauge has been slightly smaller than what the pattern specifies: is it ok for me to add extra rows when shaping the armholes (i.e. increasing every 12 rows 4 times instead of every 10) or will it mess up the picking up process (for sleeves) later?
Hi Bertha,
Thanks for reaching out! Are both your stitch and row gauges too small, or just your row gauge? If it is just your row gauge, you don’t need to alter the increases, but you will still knit the armhole to the correct length in inches for your size. If both your row and stitch gauge are off, I would suggest still following the pattern but knitting to the indicated number of rows instead of inches. Otherwise, your armhole may turn out somewhat gathered or puckered after picking up stitches for the sleeve.
Best,
Julianna
Hi All, Is this mostly a seed stitch?
Thank You!
Hi Gay,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, the majority of this sweater is in seed stitch!
Best,
Julianna
Hi there! I recently purchased this pattern and find that, whenever I’m doing the seeded rib at the beginning of the pattern, around row 8 it shifts so that the ribbing isn’t aligned anymore. Any idea why that might be? I’ve gone back and counted my stitches and I’m definitely following the pattern as written, so I’m a little perplexed!
Hi Molly,
Thanks for reaching out! I am a bit perplexed by this as well (I even worked up a swatch to see if I could figure it out.) Even though you are following the pattern as written my best guess is that you may be getting off pattern by 1 stitch, maybe knitting one instead of purling or vice versa causing the ribbing to shift. I would recommend using stitch markers between the stitch repeats to keep them in order on the right and wrong sides. If you continue to have problems with it please send us a photo to our customerservice@purlsoho.com email and we can help you trouble shoot further from there!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Hello! Have you tried this with a fingering weight yarn? Would you happen to know how much yardage is needed? Thank you
Hi Stephanie,
Thanks for reaching out! The pattern is written for a light worsted/dk weight and we haven’t made adjustments to the pattern for a fingering weight at this time so I unfortunately can’t advise you on what that would be. You could work a gauge swatch in the yarn you would like to use and re-gauge the pattern from there based on what gauge you are getting! Our All About Gauge tutorial is an excellent resource to use!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi there!
I am currently making the back of the sweater at this moment and had a quick question. I tend to overthink when patterns say to repeat something every (x) amount of rows because I am not sure if they are including the Row that has already been knit.
For example, in the Addison, it states to…
“Armhole Increase Row (right side):
Continue working in pattern, repeating the Armhole Increase Row every (10th) 1 more time
then every (8th) 5 times. (112) sts”
Do I count the Increase Row as one of my (10)…meaning my next increase would be on the 11th Row of the armhole shaping which would be a WRONG SIDE row? Or will each increase be on a RIGHT SIDE row? Then, will every (8th) row start from the 11th Row making the next increase on the 19th row? I just want to make sure I am reading this correctly.
Thank you!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! The increase row should be done on the right side and when it says to repeat the increase row every 10th row means that you work the increase on the 10th row on the right side, not the 11th row.
I hope this clarifies things!
All the best,
Gianna
Hey! How do I do the gauges correctly at 17 stitches when you need even stitches to do the seed stitch? What obvious thing am I missing here? lol.
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out! 17 stitch = 4″ so when you divide that to get the stitch per inch it is 4.25 stitches = 1″. Even though the seed stitch pattern works over an even number of stitches, this particular gauge is a bit larger than an even 4 stitches but not quite 5 when measuring an inch so that is why we say 17 stitches = 4″!
I hope this clarifies things, happy knitting!
Gianna
Thanks Gianna! So I shouldn’t worry about the seed stitch being off when I knit the gauge? Or should I adjust it in some way?
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for writing in again! Yes that is correct, for your swatch it is totally fine if the seed stitch is off as long as the gauge you are calculating is accurate with the written gauge!
All the best,
Gianna
Got, thank you!
Please help!!
I don’t know why I’m having so much trouble 🙁
I’ve worked up to the back ‘shape shoulders and neckline section.’
For the left shoulder it says:
“at the beginning of the wrong side rows, bind off at the shoulder edge 3 sts 4x’s, and AT THE SAME TIME, at the beginning of right side rows, bind off at the neck edge 5+4+2 sts.”
Then: “bind off remaining 3 sts from the wrong side.”
Does this mean on the wrong side I need to bind off 12 sts and then work in pattern to the end of the row before turning to work the directions for the right side? The ‘AT THE SAME TIME’ confuses me.
Thanks for your help!
Hi Molly,
Thanks for reaching out, I am happy to help! This section can be a bit confusion, but basically at the same time you will be binding off on the wrong side rows and the right side rows! So you will start at the beginning of wrong side rows, binding off at the shoulder edge 3 stitches 4 times. Then at the beginning of right side rows, bind off at the neck edge 5 (6, 6, 6, 6, 7) stitches once, then 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 5) stitches once, then 1 stitch 2 times.
I hope this helps clear things up and let me know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I have just purchased this pattern…and am about to start knitting. Can I skip the ribbed sections on the body and sleeves of the sweater and simply do the entire pattern in seed stitch?
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! You can certainly skip the ribbed seed stitch pattern and move straight into the Main Fabric section. Just make sure to adjust the length to account for the 2″ that would have been the ribbing, and you should be fine!
Happy Knitting!
Kelsey
I’ve finished the back and am starting on the front…I’m doing size 46, and the directions show cast on 102, which worked just fine for the ribbing, etc. Directions for the front show “work for back” and appear to show cast on 112 stitches for my size. No matter how many times I’ve started, I cannot get the ribbing to work correctly…I have an extra stitch at the end of each row for the seed rib pattern. I even worked this out on an excel sheet and there it is, the extra stitch. What could I be doing wrong? Thanks!
I think I’ve figured out the problem…just could not wait for guidance…the rib pattern should be multiples of four, plus two (allowing for the slipped stitch). So, I added two to the 112 listed on the pattern and I have my ribbing. Knitting away…..
Hi Helen,
Thanks for reaching out! I saw your previous post and wanted to clarify a few things for you! You begin with the BACK casting on 102 stitches, then when you move to the FRONT you will be working as instructed for Back until **. [104 (112, 120, 128, 136) (144, 152, 160, 168) stitches] meaning you are not casting on 112 stitches, but you should be casting on 102 just as you did for the back and then working the back instruction as directed for the front until you have reached the ** and 112 stitch total! Then you will continue on with the rest of the FRONT instructions.
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
OH! Thanks so much! Missed the intent entirely! Well. I did learn about how seed ribs are done. 🙂 At least I’ve not gotten very far with my 112 cast on. The one inch rib is pretty…but it must now ribbit. Love me some Purl Soho! Can’t wait for a trip to NYC and a visit when life returns to “normal.”
Ive ended up with 5 skeins of cashmere merino bloom in lavender moon. I’d love to make this sweater and have been trying to figure out how to incorporate another neutral color to make up the skeins I need….2 more for size 3. Maybe a color block concept? Maybe 5 skeins is just not enough for a sweater. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you
Hi Lida,
Thanks for writing in! For the 3rd size, you will definitely need 7 skeins of Cashmere Merino Bloom! For the 2 other skeins, I think you could certainly pick another color (since we no longer carry Lavender Moon) and do a cool dual color situation! Possibly the collar and part of the sleeves or the hem around the bottom in the second color? I would just be sure when doing that (specifically if you do sleeves) to weigh out your skeins so you can make sure you use the same amount of contrasting color on both sides. If you would like, I would be more than happy to recommend a few color options!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
I am currently working on the armhole increase rows – back … first increase after slipping first stitch knitwise is a purl stitch which you knit (seed stitch) My question is this … do I follow the Purl Soho video for Lifted Increases (RLI + LLI) Tutorial?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0V359rMUTs
Thank You!
Hi Cullen,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, that is correct, you will follow our Lifted Increases (RLI + LLI) tutorial for the increases!
Warmly,
Gianna
If I want to make the sleeves longer using Cricket yarn (add another two inches or so) will I need more than 6 skeins?
Hi Tracy!
Thank you for your question! Depending on the size you are making and the gauge you are getting, you may or may not need more than 6 skeins of Cricket to add a few extra inches to the sleeve. I think having just one additional skein would be the safest bet, so that you have some extra yarn to work with if you need it, but you likely won’t need more than 100 yards total for adding on to both sleeves. If the size you are making requires less yardage than the total yardage you have for your 6 skeins (1500 yards), then you should be just fine using the yarn you have!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Thanks. So going on the requirement for size 46 on the Flax Down, it looks like I will need 1314 yards – this is true for Cricket as well?
You are very welcome, Tracy! And yes, as long as your gauge is the same as the gauge listed in the pattern, you will need about 1314 yards of Cricket for size 46 of this sweater.
Please feel free to let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello, I am just purchasing this sweater and was going to order Flax Down, which it looks like you no longer carry. Are there any of your yarns, in addition to Cashmere Bloom, that would work for this sweater?
Thanks, Melissa
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! Flax Down was a DK weight yarn, so you’ll want to use another yarn of the same weight, in order to achieve the correct gauge for Addison.
The best match would be Cashmere Merino Bloom, which is a very soft and fluffy yarn. Another great option would be Morning. Morning is a blend of cotton and yak, so it has a very different feel to it compared to Flax Down, but it’s a wonderful yarn too, and it’s machine washable! Finally, Knitting Yarn would also be a great substitute. This is one of our newest yarn additions, and it’s the perfect “all-around” yarn: simple, durable, and extremely versatile!
I hope that my recommendation are helpful, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili