Julie Hoover for Purl Soho: Goode
Not all sweaters can be worn without sometimes feeling a little overheated, but Goode definitely can! With short sleeves and a breezy, flattering dolman shape, it’s the perfect shirt-style pullover for all seasons.
The most interesting aspect of this design is the v-neckline with an incorporated I-cord edge. It wraps around the back of the neckline and is grafted for a seamless, tailored-looking collar. (Don’t worry, that doesn’t mean it’s difficult!)
Worked in stockinette stitch using Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, the fabric is light and has a wonderful drape. And with Linen Quill’s generous yardage, you’ll be surprised how few skeins you’ll need to knit this entire project!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Pair Goode with jeans or your favorite skirt, and wear it all year long! -Julie
UPDATE: NEW YARN
May 3, 2017
The Goode pattern works just as well with Purl Soho’s Cattail Silk! A lighter, more warm weather version, read all about it here.
Designed for Purl Soho by Julie Hoover. Currently based in Ann Arbor, Michigan, Julie Hoover designs knitwear and makes yarn, for both her own personal label and others. Her work reflects a lifelong passion for clothing and textiles, and her view that knitting is a beautiful way of creating timeless fashion, a thoughtful mix of quality and creativity, intention and care.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoGoode, and #PurlSohoLinenQui. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) (5, 5, 5, 6) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, 15% linen. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1200 (1315, 1480, 1625, 1810) (1955, 2020, 2145, 2295) yards required. This is the color Stonewall Gray.
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 16-inch circular needle
- US 3, 24-inch circular needle
- Stitch marker
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- Blocking wires and T-Pins (optional, but recommended)
- Julie Hoover for Purl Soho’s Goode Pattern
Gauge
25 stitches and 38 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
38 (41½, 45½, 49½, 53) (57, 61, 64½, 68½)
To fit actual chest circumference of 30–32 (34–36, 38–40, 42–44, 46–48) (50–52, 54–56, 58–60, 62–64) inches, with approximately 5–8 inches of ease.
- Finished Midriff Circumference: 38 (41½, 45½, 49½, 53) (57, 61, 64½, 68½) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 24 (24½, 25½, 26¼, 27½) (28, 27¼, 27½, 28) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 12¾ (12¾, 13¼, 13¼, 14) (14, 13, 13, 13¼) inches
- Length From Center Neck To Cuff: 17¼ (18¼, 19, 20, 21¼) (22, 23, 24, 25) inches
- Length From Shoulder To Underarm: 11¼ (11¾, 12¼, 13, 13½) (14, 14¼, 14½, 14¾) inches
SAMPLE: The sweater pictured here is Size 41½ shown on model with a 34-inch bust.
Pattern
Goode is available as a PDF download only.
Learn About Linen Quill + All Our Beautiful Yarns
We designed this project to highlight the uniquely beautiful qualities of our Linen Quill, a wonderful fingering-weight yarn that is a blend of 50% wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. It feels amazing in your hands, and in 70 jaw-droppingly gorgeous colors, Linen Quill is the candy store of yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Linen Quill knitting patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop wool yarn
- Shop alpaca yarn
- Shop linen yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Both sweaters are beautiful, and so is the model.
Suggestion for a sweater project or a tutorial on the Purl Bee: something that features short rows or whatever technique is used for shaping around the bust. Not everyone is flat-chested, and these sweaters with no shaping in that area are not flattering to us ladies who wear more than a B Cup.
Thanks! Love the Purl Bee and Purl Soho!
Hi Segolene,
Thanks for the suggestion! We’ll keep it in mind for the future. Just a note on this pattern: there is quite a bit of suggested ease and the sweater is meant to fit loosely, so short rows in the bust are not necessary for this look. We do, however, have some patterns that are form fitting and bust darts could fit the sweater in that case. Thanks again!
-Adam
Both these patterns by Julie Hoover are perfect! I feel like you must have been stalking my internet searching – they are EXACTLY the patterns I’ve been looking for, down to the seed stitch pattern in Addison. I’m thinking about making Goode longer so it’s a tunic. How many extra balls of Linen Quill do you suggest I get if I’m making one of the middle sizes? Thank you in advance! And gorgeous gorgeous patterns!!
Hi Alex,
So glad we read your mind unintentionally! I think you’ll really enjoy making this pattern! I suggest getting five skeins if it calls for four for your size. This way you’ll have a lot of freedom to make it as long as you want!
Best of luck,
Adam
This is stunning!! I visited the shop last week and admired the Linen Quill but couldn’t decide what to make with it. I think I have my answer.
I have yet to knit a garment, only scarves and a basic hat. Would this be a good beginner project?
Hello Sandy,
Thank you so much for your interest in this sweater! This sweater is worked in stockinette stitch so it would be a great project to transition from scarves and hats into garments with more shaping. The v-neckline does have an incorporated I-cord edge which can be a bit tricky for a beginner, but we do have some great tutorials on i-cords here and here. We also have an I-Cord Necklace project that would be great to try out if you’d like additional practice with i-cords.
We are also always available here, over email ([email protected]) and over the phone (NY Store: (212) 420-8796) if you have any questions while your working on this or any of our patterns we are happy to help!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Julie Hoover’s patterns are always clearly written and easy to understand
Hi! I just bought this pattern. I would love to make it in the yarn it is shown in (Linen Quill) but I live in Florida and think it may be too warm. Would you please suggest another lighter weight yarn, perhaps with cotton in it that I could substitute. Or, do you think the Linen Quill would be okay? Thanks
Barbara
Hi Barbara,
Thank you for writing in to us! I actually think the Linen Quill will be light enough because it’s a thin yarn at a loose gauge with some flax in it. However, if you want a plant fiber, I suggest using Kalinka or Kalinka 41. Both are lightweight and come in wonderful colors. Hope you like the suggestions!
-Adam
Hello! I was wondering if Shibui Pebble would be okay to use for this beautiful pattern.
Also I think about lengthening the sleeves; if I just knit on, would they be too wide? Thanks
Elsje
Hi Elsje,
Thank you for writing us! Shibui Pebble would be an excellent substitute for this pattern. The armholes aren’t terribly wide but you’ll want to decrease a bit if you are adapting this for long sleeves. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
When starting the body section the instruction say to decrease every 8th row. Do you count just the knit rows to get to the 8th
row or do you count both knit and pearl rows to get to the 8th row
Hi Joyce,
Thanks for the question. You should count knit and purl rows as separate rows. This means you’ll do four knit rows and four purl rows before doing the decrease. Hope this helps!
-Adam
Hi There:
This is a beautiful garment and I’m thinking of making it. Regarding the instructions, by your reply to Joyce, do you mean you would completely knit and purl the 8 rows then on row 9 you would decrease? Then on the following row, you would start counting again? Or do I do the decrease on the 8th row, then start over counting after that?
Thank you!
Kris
Hi Kris,
My bad! I was not clear. If it says to decrease every 8th row, that means you knit/purl seven rows normally and on the 8th row you will decrease. Thanks!
-Adam
Hi,
I first started to knit and purl 8 rows, and decrease on 9th, then on 17th row, etc. I did likewise because the instructions say the left decrease is obtained with ssknit. So I thought the decrease row always has to be on the right side. If I decrease each 8th row, ie count 7 rows then decrease, I’ll have to sspurl for the left decrease half the time. Is it correct?
Thanks.
Anne (France)
Hi Anne,
Thanks for writing back. After the ribbing you start your initial decrease row. The next row (wrong side) would be considered row 1 of your decrease repeat. This makes all right side rows even numbered rows. Also, you are to knit seven rows and decrease on the eighth row. This means that all your decreases will end up on right side rows and you will not have to SSP ever for the midriff section. I hope this clears things up!
-Adam
Since it says to decrease every 8th row I’ve always worked 1-7 and then done the decrease on the 8th. Does this mean I’m wrong? uh, oh.
Hello Laura,
Thank you for your comment! You are correct, you will work 1-7 and do you decrease row on your 8th row.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi! Would the line weight yarn be okay for this pattern? Also, could I knit tightly on size 4 needles as I don’t want to buy 3 new sizes in size 3, or will the gauge be completely off?
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for the question. The Line Weight is a good substitute for the Linen Quill. However, unless you’re a very tight knitter I think you’ll want to buy the US3 needles to get the correct gauge.
All the best,
Adam
I’m trying to see how this sweater is constructed – in pieces? In the round top down? Bottom up? I must be missing something obvious. Thanks! Yes, it’s lovely simplicity.
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for writing in! This lovely sweater is knit in pieces and seamed!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I was looking for this pattern to purchase but states not available. Please let me know if I can still purchase this. Thanks Marisa
Hi Marisa,
The pattern is available for PDF download or hard copy. Just click here. Thanks!
-Adam
I am thinking of making this for my 18 year old daughter, but she has requested it be striped or at least have one strip in it. Will the pattern work with stripes?
Hi Lori,
Thanks for writing in! This lovely pattern is worked in pieces and sewn together. You can certainly add in stripes or a single stripe. In order to keep them lined up correctly, you will want to keep track of how many rows you knit using one color and the the next and be sure to knit this on the front and back. So long as the stripes are below the neckline and sleeves, you will not need to do any modification!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Love both of these sweaters. Would like to substitute yarn to Cotton Pure. Do you think it may be too heavy. Should I increase the needle size so the stitches won’t be to dense?? I always visit the shop when I’m in NYC. It’s like getting a blood transfusion when you enter the front door. Thanks for such a great place to shop.
Hi Gigi,
Thank you so much for the kind words and we are so glad that you love both of Julie’s sweaters! For this sweater, the Cotton Pure is quite a lot thicker than the Linen Quill used here. Altering the pattern to use the cotton would take quite a lot of work and alterations. For the Addison, Cotton Pure is closer in gauge but a bit on the lighter side. You would need to knit a gauge swatch and see if you like the fabric at the correct gauge or else alter the pattern to work.
Cotton does have a tendency to be heavy and a knit cotton garment will lengthen as it is worn. So long as a heavier sweater works for you, you can certainly give it a go. Just be sure to account for the weight and the growing length of the garment.
I hope that this was helpful!
Cassy
I love this pattern, but I do not wear a v-neck well. Could you suggest pattern changes that would make for a more gently rounded neck? (I would need to make the largest pattern size.) Thank you! You have such lovely yarns and patterns.
Hello Dana,
Thanks for writing in! I’m so happy to hear you love this pattern as much as we do. Changing the neckline on this is a bit tricky and you might have to try a few times before you get it. I would suggest binding off some of the middle stitches when you get to the part of the pattern where you separate the left and right shoulders and taking out some of the decrease so that the neck has a shallower slope. I hope this helps! Let us know if you have any further questions.
-Marilla
I am a progressing beginner and would like to know if this can be made with Cotton Pure? If so, what possible changes would have to be made?
Hi Kathleen,
Thanks for writing in! Out Cotton Pure is quite a bit thicker than the Line Quill that this pattern was designed with. While you could convert the pattern to work with a larger gauge yarn, it would be quite a bit of work. If you would like to use another yarn, I would suggest an alternate fingering weight yarn with a gauge of roughly 25 stitches and 38 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, do you know when the Linen Quill in Gray Denim might be back in stock? Thanks!
Hi Denise,
Thanks for writing in! If you would like to be notified when we do have Gray Denim back in stock, you can request us to alert your via email. On the product page, select the color and where you would normally add the item to your basket, you can fill in your email address and we will email you when it is back in stock!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hey! I have a question about the pattern. Under the “Shape Dolman” section it says: “Continue working in stockinette stitch repeating the Dolman increase row every 6th row 0 times (for size small) then every 4th row 3 times…” When knitting size S, does this mean that I should knit 6 rows without the increase and then another 4 rows (total of 10) before the next increase? Or should I knit 4 rows and then proceed with the increase?
Thanks!
Siri
Hello Siri,
So for this pattern in a small, you will knit 6 rows then knit 4 rows and do the increase. You will repeat knitting 4 rows and then the increase 3 times.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Hi- I’ve enjoyed knitting this until I got to the front neck/ shoulder shaping. For some reason I’m ending up with 16 extra stitches. I’m making the 41 1/2. Can you tell me how many sts I should have on my needles when I start the sloped bind off. And when it says to bind off 4 sts -do the first 2 slipped sts bound off count as the first bind off so I would only do 3 more?
Thanks, Katherine
Hello Katherine,
Thank you for writing in and my apologies for such a delayed response! I hope I can still help clear things up for you- those increases while decreasing can get majorly confusing. So, for the size 41 1/2 you start out with 95 stitches on both the right side and the left side. After you get through the neck increase/ sleeve decrease section you should have a total of 85 stitches – because you have decreased 16 sts and increased 6 sts. Next you will bind off 4 sts at a time 18 times- this means you will bind off 72 sts which will get you to the 13 stitches remaining referenced in the pattern.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Dolman increase on the left side states to knit next stitch on L needle then lift the L leg of the stitch 2 rows below the stitch on right needle onto L needle and knit it through the back loop. Is there a video which I can watch for this particular increase.
Hi Susan,
Unfortunately we don’t have a video of this technique at the moment. I will be sure to pass your request along!
Best,
Carly
Hello!
I just started knitting this sweater in size 41 1/2. Right now when I measure the ribbed bottom edge of the back, it’s 18 inches long, whereas the diagram on the pattern says it should be 22 3/4 inches for the size I’m making. Is this something that you’d expect to grow to the correct size with wet blocking, or should I start over and go up a couple of sizes?
Thank you!
Hi Nicole,
Did you do a gauge swatch to determine the correct needle size? It seems that you might have to go up a needle size. With wet blocking the garment might grow slightly but not to the length that you need.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Hi,
I need a bit of help on the SHAPE DOLMAN section.
What does “Work 1 wrong side row **even**” mean? Am I supposed to just knit 1 row across the wrong side?
Hi Dhruvi,
Thanks for writing in! “Work 1 wrong side row even” means that you will work 1 wrong side row in stockinette (purl for the wrong side) maintaining the one stitch at each end in garter stitch. Essentially you are working a regular wrong side row to set you up to knit the next right side row.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I am seaming the shoulders together and cant find a way to do it so the feont and back stitches line up. Any suggestions?
Hello Valerie,
Thank you for writing us and congratulations on being almost done with your sweater!
The first thing I would recommend doing to set yourself up for success, is to block everything to your dimensions. Once you have done this, I would use a few pins or removable stitch markers to pin the front and back together before beginning the seam, just so everything stays matched up as you go.
I hope this helps and let us know if you continue to have issues or have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hello!
I’m finally seaming my sweater, but which technique do I use? There’s one stitch garter, so do I seam as with your garter stitch tutorial, or, should I use the mattress stitch on the first knitted warp row, and the one stitch garter is more of an inside seam allowance? Or better yet, which technique was used on the sweater in the photo? I’m a sewist so I’m used to a seam allowance. Thank you in advance!
Cheers,
Andi
Hello Andi,
Thank you for reaching out! I would start at the bottom edge using mattress stitch, and then transition to the variation for horizontal seaming when necessary. You should theoretically have the same number of rows on the front and back, but I would still use a few pins or removable stitch markers to pin the front and back together before beginning the seam, just so everything stays matched up as you go!
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello,
I’m having trouble understanding the instructions for the Left Front section. I am currently knitting the 38 inches size.
I have tried writing out the instructions row by row, but it seems as though the 4 repeats of the Sleeve Increase Row will finish before the 14 repeats of the Neck Decrease Row. Is that correct?
Row 1: sleeve increase and neck decrease
Row 2: purl, maintaining first 3 stitches
Row 3: knit
Row 4:purl, maintaining first 3 stitches
Row 5: neck decrease row
Row 6: purl, maintaining first 3 stitches
Row 7: Sleeve increase row
Row 8: purl, maintaining first 3 stitches
Row 9: neck decrease row
Hi Winnie,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct, the sleeve increases will end well before you are done with the neck decreases! Once you have completed the four sleeve increases, you will continue on with the neck decreases without working any shaping at the sleeve edge until the armhole measures 7 1/2 inches. You will still not be done with the neck decreases, but you will begin working the shoulder shaping at this point while continuing the neck decreases.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thank you — This is very helpful!
Hi!
Can you please suggest a yarn that is machine washable for this sweater? Thank you!
Hello Katrina,
Thank you for reaching out! We knit this lovely sweater up in our Cattail Silk which is machine washable.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for the suggestion. Is there more budget-friendly yarn that you would be able to suggest?
Katrina
Hello Katrina,
Thank you for this question! We do not have a more budget friendly option that is also machine washable, Linen Quill is more budget friendly but is a hand wash yarn. Any fingering weight yarn can be used for this sweater.
I wish my answer was more helpful! Please let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hello, I am in need of pattern help! I have reached the RIGHT FRONT COLLAR EXTENSION:
“Next Row (right side): Knit to last stitch, slip 1 knitwise wyib
Next Row (wrong side): Purl to last 3 stitches, slip 3 purlwise wyif”
If I follow the right side directions and slip the last stitch, what do I do with it when I begin the wrong side row? I can’t purl it because the working yarn is in front of it.
Thank you!
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the yarn is to the left of the first stitch after you turn, you can still purl with it since it is in the front of the work! It may feel a bit odd at first, but you will still insert your needle into the first stitch as if to purl, then lay the working yarn from left to right across the needles before completing the purl stitch.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am shaping the back shoulders. I am a confused. Do I bind off on the right and wrong side for 28 rows or just the right side 28 times? Thank you.
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for reaching out! You will be binding off at the beginning of every row, right and wrong side, for 28 rows total, or 14 right side rows and 14 wrong side rows.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello,
I am at the point where it says to work 3 rows even, making 41-1/2, and I should end on an odd row. I am starting on an even row which will end on an even row. Should I work 4 even? Thanks.
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for reaching out! I would be happy to take a look at this part of the pattern, but I can’t seem to find it! Can you let me know what page of the pattern you are finding the instructions to work 3 rows even?
Best,
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
It is on page 3, after you finish the sleeve increase. And by odd and even I meant wrong and right side. Basically I start on the right side working 3 rows even which would have me finish on a right side, but I am supposed to end on a wrong side.
Thank you,
Katrina
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! These instructions should turn out correctly, so you may be short a row or have worked an extra row already. The initial sleeve increase row, and every following sleeve increase row, should be worked on the right side of the work, so you will be ending with a right side sleeve increase row immediately before working the 3 rows. I would check to make sure that you have worked the final sleeve increase row by counting your stitches – you should have 190 at this time. After the last sleeve increase row on the right side, the three rows should be a wrong side, right side, and wrong side row so that you have the right side facing for the next step.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, I’m nearly done with my sweater — it’s blocked to size and seamed — and I’m getting ready to begin the cuff ribbing for the sleeves. For the smallest size, the pattern says to pick up 46 stitches for the front and back of each sleeve. In order to get 46 stitches, I’d have to skip quite a few rows. When I tried picking up nearly every row, I wound up with 59 stitches per side. Should I stick with the pattern and skip some rows as I go? If I do this, will there be visible gaps in the finished product? Or am I better off picking up a stitch at every row even though the number is so off? Thanks for your help!
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for writing in! It’s fairly normal to pick up a different number of stitches than there are rows when working ribbing. Most of the time, you will end up picking up 3 stitches for every 4 rows, which is about what you will have to do here. As long as you spread out your stitches evenly, you shouldn’t see any gaps or holes in the finished sleeve!
Best,
Julianna
Hello, I’m fairly new to knitting, and I have a question about inc/dec every 4th for (for example)
Is it:
Row 1: decrease row (happens to be a knit row)
Row 2: purl
Row 3: knit
Row 4: purl
Row 5: decrease row, K
Row 6: purl
Row 7: knit
Row 8: purl
Row 9: decrease row, K
Row 10: purl
Row 11: knit
Row 12: purl
Row 13: decrease row, K
Row 14: purl
Row 15: knit
Row 16: purl
Row 17: decrease row, K
Or is it:
Row 1: decrease row (happens to be a knit row)
Row 2: purl
Row 3: knit
Row 4: decrease row, purl
Row 5: knit
Row 6: purl
Row 7: decrease row, knit
Row 8: purl
Row 9: knit
Row 10: decrease row, purl
Row 11: knit
Row 12: purl
Row 13: decrease row, knit
(I’ve done the increase every 8th row with the second option and now I’m wondering if I’ve done it wrong :()
Thank you!
Hi Angela,
Thanks for writing in! Your first example is correct – when your pattern has you decrease every 4th row, you will work 3 plain rows, and then decreases on the fourth row, and then work 3 plain rows, and again increase on the fourth row. For most patterns that are knit flat, including Goode, decreases or increases worked in this fashion will always be worked on right side rows. It does sound like you might have to take out this section, but hopefully you won’t have to go too far back!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello! I am working on this pattern and I’m stuck on the left shoulder and neck line: it reads:
“At the beginning of wrong side rows, bind off as the shoulders edge 4 stitches 3 times.”
Do I bind off 4 stitches 3 consecutive times. Like bind off 4, bind off 4, bind off 4 then knit across and follow the “at the same time directions”
Or do I bind off 4 stitches then knit across follow the “at the same time” instructions (X3)
I love this pattern and the Linen Quill yarn. It’s been a great quarantine project
Hi Sabrina,
Thanks for writing in! When following instructions like this, you will be binding off on separate rows, so you will bind off 4 stitches at the beginning of your next row, finish purling the row, knit back, then bind off 4 stitches again at the beginning of the following wrong side row, and again finish purling the row and knit back, and so on, until you have bound off 4 stitches at the beginning of 3 wrong side rows. At the same time, you will follow the next set of instructions, which have you bind off at the neck edge on the right side rows in between the bind offs at the shoulder edge. It can be very helpful when working simultaneous instructions like this to write out your rows ahead of time or mark them off as you go!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello. I’d love to begin this sweater but I am a beginner and wonder how difficult it would be for me. I’ve knit socks, crew necks, scarves and hats etc. But this looks tricky. I love it tho.
Thanks for the advice.
Hi Pamela,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern is pretty straight forward and easy to follow! I think if you have made crew necks before you shouldn’t have a problem knitting this! There might be a few challenges but overall I believe this pattern is beginner friendly.
Please feel free to reach out with any more questions you may have going forward!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
Hello Purl Soho Helper!
I just finished sewing the right shoulder seam on Goode. It seems to be puckering a little. I used the Seaming Stockinette Stitch Horizontally technique. Since I am using Cattail Silk I doubt it will smooth out with blocking.
I am thinking I may have stitched it too tightly and think a frog and a retry are in order. Please comment.
Thank you,
Mary Costantino
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out. I think your suspicion is correct, you’re likely pulling on the yarn a bit too tightly when seaming! I’d recommend trying again with less tension, but if you’re still running into issues, you can send us a photo of your work at [email protected]. That way, we’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for responding so quickly, Lili!
I was just about to start taking it out.
Mary
My first sweater project, and so far finding it fairly intuitive while also learning a couple new skills! Quick question on the Shape Dolman section: for the Backward Loop cast-on rows, do I still knit one stitch at the beginning to maintain selvage, or do I cast on at the very beginning of the row? I also noticed someone on the Backward Loop how-to page pointed out the directional nature of that cast-on; is that relevant here? Thanks!
Hi Kate,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Backwards Loop cast-on rows, you will be casting on 2 stitches at the beginning of each of the next 12 rows, then casting on 4 stitches at the beginning of the final 2 rows of this section. For these cast-on rows, you will continue to include the selvedge edge stitch that you have been knitting in the previous rows, making sure to knit or purl that stitch in pattern.
The Backwards Loop cast-on technique that we used for this pattern is not directional since you will be casting the stitches onto the right needle before turning your work to start knitting across that row.
I hope this explanation helps! Please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
I am in the process of making Goode in Cattail silk and have Julie Hoover’s Pearson in mind for my next project. I love her designs , but notice her patterns are made in pieces and sewn together and the Pearson cardigan even makes the button band separately and then sews its onto the garment. Is there a reason for this technique vs the more modern patterns that try to eliminate as much sewing pieces together as possible.
Does knitting in separate pieces stabilize or somehow change the look of the project? Is there a reason she chooses to construct her beauties this way?
Hello,
Thanks for reaching out to us with your question! It’s true that constructing knitted garments in separate panels and seaming them together adds more structure to your piece! The yarn used to sew up the seams is less stretchy than a knitted fabric, so when blocking or wearing the sweater, those panels keep their original shape.
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
All the best,
Carly
I have made 3 sweaters out of this pattern and wear them often. I did the first in linen quill which is awesome but since it is so expensive I opted for merino superwash sock twist for the other 2. They worked up really well too. I’m a beginner knitter, I think this was only the second sweater I ever attempted, but I loved it so much that I dove in and actually found this pattern very straightforward and easy enough to execute well. Even my brother complimented me on the neckline detail! I mean really, how often could that happen. Many thanks for this one.
Trish
We are so glad to hear you (and your brother!) are loving your Goode sweaters! Thank you so much for leaving such a lovely comment, and we hope you continue to enjoy wearing your hard work!
All the best,
Margaret