Knit Layette
An heirloom in-the-making, each piece of our Knit Layette Pattern features classic Aran cables and beautiful details. In a lovely cardigan, a snug hat and sweet, little booties, baby will be perfectly suited for his or her first venture into the world!
Sized from newborns to six-month-olds, our Knit Layette pattern features full-color photos and helpful instructions. The entire set requires just two skeins of Purl Soho’s incredibly soft Line Weight merino yarn and a collection of pretty mother-of-pearl buttons.
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Whether you give the set itself to a crafty, expectant parent or you knit up the set yourself, our Knit Layette tries in every way to be incredibly special. Babies are very good at inspiring that kind of love! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoKnitLayette, and #PurlSohoLineWeight. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
To knit your own Knit Layette set, you will need…
- 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino wool yarn. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 494 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 540 (690) yards required. We used Heirloom White.
- 5 of Purl Soho’s Small Mother of Pearl Buttons, Smooth 2-Hole, in the color Ecru
- US 2 (3 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 1 (2.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 2 double pointed needles
- A set of US 1 double pointed needles
- 8 stitch markers
- 2 stitch holders
- A cable stitch holder
- A few yards of fingering-weight scrap yarn and a crochet hook to match, for Provisional Cast-Ons
- A Knit Layette Pattern
Gauge
36 stitches and 44 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch with larger needles
Sizes
0-3 (3-6) months
Cardigan
- Finished Chest Circumference: 15 (17 1⁄4) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 9 1⁄4 (10 3⁄4) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 4 3⁄4 (5 3⁄4) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 5 (6) inches
Ease: This garment is designed with a 0- to 1-inch ease around the chest.
Sample: The cardigan pictured here is Size 0-3 months.
Hat
- Finished Circumference: 14 1⁄2 (16 1⁄4) inches
- Finished Height: 6 1⁄4 (7 1⁄4) inches
Sample: The hat pictured here is Size 0-3 months.
Socks
- Finished Foot Circumference: 4 1⁄4 inches
- Finished Leg Circumference: 4 1⁄4 inches
- Finished Foot Length: 3 1⁄2 (3 3⁄4) inches
- Finished Height from Heel to Top of Cuff: 3 3⁄4 inches
Sample: The socks pictured here are Size 0-3 months.
Update: Colorful Socks!
April 2017
They are the perfect gift for all those expecting a newcomer this spring! Although small, these Knit Layette Socks are filled with pretty details, and in Line Weight’s beautiful colors, they also pack a punch. This project is so mini, you can pick a handful of colors like you’re picking flowers. The more the merrier!
Pattern
The Knit Layette Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I love Purl patterns and your yarn is lovely, but it’d be more sensible to knit this in a nice washable yarn. When my son was a newborn, we usually went through 1-3 outfits a day because of various messes.
Thank you for designing this lovely layette. Line weight is gorgeous yarn and I’ve been hoping that you would design a baby sweater to knit with it.
Since the birth of Princess Charlotte there seems to be a rebirth of using a fine wool in white to knit at least a bonnet for the infant. Wool may not be practical for everyday use, but as an heirloom, it’s a treasure! What a lovely layette for some handsome young prince or princess!
Can I buy only the pattern book? Love the look of this – but, as a knitter, I already have more yarn and buttons that I can knit up – so getting the pattern would be a boon.
Yes, Brenda! That option is available on the drop-down menu at this link: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9844-Purl-Soho-Knit-Layette-Kit
Happy knitting! -Alyson
What a lovely set.
Yes washable merino wool would be more practical…
I just bought the downloadable pattern & it doesn’t have the needle size or yarn quantity on it.
Even if a person purchases the kit, they may want to make it again years later. By not having it on the pattern it may make it difficult to remember the needle size and yarn required.
Hi Carolyn.
All of the information involving the materials, the gauge and the sizing can be found on the last page of the PDF, as well as a schematic of the sweater. If for some reason the PDF file you downloaded was corrupt, please do not hesitate to contact our Customer Service team who will be sure to get you a new PDF ASAP! You can reach them at customerservice [at] purlsoho [dot] com
In the mean time though, here is the information on the yarn from the back cover/page of the pattern…
2 skeins oF Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino. Each skein is approximately 494 yards; approximately 540 (690) total yards required: 300 (395) for Cardigan, 170 (220) for Hat, 70 (75) for Socks. We used the color Heirloom White.
Please let me know if you have any questions! Thanks!
Laura
Would you please have the pattern of a sweater with hood age 3 yrs and 5 yrs among your free patterns to share with me. I would like to knit these 2 for my grand daughters
Thanks
Lilette
Hi Lilette.
Thank you so much for your interest in the pattern. I’m afraid at this time we only have the Knit Layette sized for newborn to 6 month olds. We do have a some other kids garment patterns though!
Thanks again for writing in.
Laura
x
cute
First let me say I have knit several of Purl SoHo patterns and used their yarn and have loved each project. The yarn for this sweater is so nice. I am having a problem and here is my question.
On the Yoke section row one. It doesn’t work the way it is written. This is what I am wondering at the end where it says C4B 2 times,[m1R, knit to the next marker, m1L sm, k2, C4F, k2 ] 2 times. Should the bracket be after the sm with 2 times and then the k2 C4F,k2 for the final section?
I spent hours trying to make this work the way it is written and it wouldn’t work. After walking away from it this is what I came up with. I would appreciate any input. Thank you.
Hi Lorrie.
I’m glad you wrote in. Let’s see if we can get you back on track! So you have 96 stitches for the 3-6 month size and you’ve already worked the ribbing and have moved on to the Yoke portion of the pattern.
For the Set-Up row you… purled 8, then (placed a marker and purled 11) eight times. This gives you 9 sections.
In Round 1, you’ll begin cabling and increasing.
The order of the cables is: Front, Front, Back, Front, Back Front, Back, Front, Front.
I understand why you might think that last set of brackets is in the wrong spot! Bear with me as I try and explain what’s happening here! After you work the third cable BACK, you increase, knit, increase, then cable FRONT, increase, knit, increase cable FRONT AGAIN.
For Row 1 you…
– K2, cable FRONT, k2, increase, knit to marker, increase, slip marker, then you do all of that again…
– K2, cable FRONT, k2, increase, knit to marker, increase, slip marker, then you…
– cable BACK, increase, knit to next marker, increase, sm, and then k2, cable FRONT, k2, increase, knit to marker, increase, slip marker, then do that whole thing again…
– cable BACK, increase, knit to next marker, increase, sm, and then k2, cable FRONT, k2, increase, knit to marker, increase, slip marker, then…
– cable BACK, then…
– increase, knit to next marker, increase, k2, cable FRONT, k2, and then repeat that again…
– increase, knit to next marker, increase, k2, cable FRONT, k2.
I really hope this helps! Please do not hesitate to write us back here in the comments section with any questions. We will do our very best to approve the comment and respond within 24 hours.
Thanks.
Laura
What does it mean to sm twice? I’m learning cables and this is the most intricate I’ve ever gone so I’m trying to carefully work my way through it. I hope I haven’t bitten off more than I can chew. My grandson is due on April 28th! Thanks!
Hi Mary,
SM twice means to slip marker twice. Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I’m still confused….how do you sm twice? Like I said, I’m pretty new to this and have only ever done very basic knitting. But your patterns inspire me to do more!
Hi Mary,
When you have to do something twice it’s usually preceding a set of directions in brackets “[]”. This means that you won’t slip the marker twice, but instead do all of the directions within the brackets twice. I hope this answers your question. If not, please write me back with the specific direction you are having trouble with. Thank you!
All the best,
Adam
I am stuck in the same spot and these instructions aren’t helping to figure it out.
I am knitting the newborn size, with the set up row it gave me nine sections
This is what is written above and I’ve added in what section it is as well as the SM that is missing in the instructions below that are in the written pattern after the cable back :
For Row 1 you…
– K2, cable FRONT, k2, increase, knit to marker, increase, slip marker, then you do all of that again…(section one)
– K2, cable FRONT, k2, increase, knit to marker, increase, slip marker, then you…(section two)
– cable BACK, increase, knit to next marker, increase, sm, and then k2, cable FRONT, k2, increase, knit to marker, increase, slip marker, then do that whole thing again…(section three and four)
– cable BACK, increase, knit to next marker, increase, sm, and then k2, cable FRONT, k2, increase, knit to marker, increase, slip marker, then…(section five and six)
There are now three sections left:
– cable BACK, then… (this is where I get stuck)
– increase, knit to next marker, increase,(you’re missing the SM that is in the written pattern because what else would you do when you knit to the marker and there are no more stitches unless you slip it), k2, cable FRONT, k2, and then repeat that again…(section seven and eight)
– increase, knit to next marker, increase, (again missing SM that is in the written pattern) k2, cable FRONT, k2.(there is only an 8 stitches left and no other section to knit to another marker).
I am really, really stuck after the written instructions state to cable back twice because if you do that for section seven and then repeat the bracket twice while slipping the marker twice that is four sections you are using which you don’t have left. The math does not work out if you are slipping the markers as written in the instructions in the bracket after the CB4 twice.
HALP!
Kim
Hi Kim,
Thanks for the feedback but we haven’t experienced a problem like this in the pattern before. Also, I’m kind of confused as to what you are not understanding. I’d go back and make sure you have place your markers in the correct spots. You should have 8 sections of 10 stitches and one section for 8 stitches. Please write back with more specifics and I’d be glad to help!
-Adam
I am having trouble with the written pattern in the 3-6 month size. It seems that the written instructions are for the smaller size with 8 cable sections.
Most likely, I’m missing something, but I am having a hard time trying to figure out how to do the 9 cable sections without specific instructions.
Hi Digna,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties! I assure you that Row 1 is written for both sizes. In the set up row, you are instructed where to place your makers. Once you do the set up row and you have your markers in place, you are ready to work Row 1. Instead of making you count stitches, we tell you what to do before the next marker. Additionally, the pattern is written for both sizes with the main difference being the number of stitches in each section between the cables.
I hope that this clears things up and please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions!
Cassy
First if you purl 8 place a marker and then purl 11 place a marker and continue with the remaining 77 stitches I count that as 8 sections with 11 stitches and one section with 8 stitches for a total of 9 sections. Then, I have the printed version of the pattern, it states C4B 2times, [m1R, knit to next marker, m 1 L, sm k2, C4F, k2]2 times. What you are saying is I C4B one time ( the pattern states 2) and then [ m1R, knit to the next marker, m1L sm k2 C4F,k2] 2 times. So that clarifies and uses up the stitches the way you are explaining it but there still is the problem of the pattern saying to C4B 2times before the bracket and the final instructions inside the brackets.
I do appreciate the help.
Hi Lorrie.
Every time you cable BACK, you do it twice. I apologize for using shorthand. There are 9 cable columns and I was being quick by just saying which column is a front cable and which column is a back cable. Again, yes, you work every back cable twice.
Regarding the section… You do have 9 sections. I have corrected my previous comment.
96-8=88
88/11=8
9 sections
Let me know if you have any additional questions.
Laura
I need some clarification on how the buttonholes are made. In ‘continue shaping yoke’, I increased row 2 with the backwards loop that I then knitted in row 3. I am confused about the drop stitch in the purl row. Do I drop the kit stitch or do I make a drop stitch?doesn’t drop stitch unfold in 2 rows?
Hi Charry.
Thanks for writing in.
So you want to drop that new stitch, the one you made by doing the backwards loop, you want to drop that one off the needle. Once you drop it off the neelde, if you give the fabric a slight tug, the stitch will run down 2 rows, like you said. Later on in the pattern, in the section titled FINISH, there’s a bit about how you can open/tidy up these button holes by tacking the two ladders, one above and one below.
Please let us know if you have any questions! Thanks again for writing in.
Laura
I had a question about gauge. The pattern says 36 stitches on size 2 needles, however the yarn says 32 stitches on size 1 needles. I was wondering how can I get the correct gauge when the yarn itself can’t seem to go small enough.
My concern is I can’t go any smaller needle-wise to obtain the correct gauge. I tried to make the hat on size 2 needles, however it is turning out too big. Please help!
Thanks,
Cathy
Hi Cathy G.
Thanks for writing in. That certainly is a discrepancy! I will be in touch with our yarn development team about the gauge listed on the label of the yarn. Nine stitches per inch (or 36 per 4 inches) is definitely achievable! I used a size US 2 to achieve this gauge, as did our sample/test knitters. I have heard some folks did drop down to a US 1 though. The needle size listed on the pattern is what we used, but it is just a suggestion. Due to the the human factor in hand knitting, often times people have to adjust according to their own personal tension and knitting style. I would suggest that you use whatever needle you need to in order to obtain gauge.
Again, thank you for writing in and I will be sure to pass this concern on to the rest of the team. I do hope you can find a needle that will have you happily on your way. Please do not hesitate to write us back with any additional questions.
Thanks.
Laura
Hey there, I have a similar issue. (Just got the layette kit and can’t wait to start knitting!) I swatched ï¾– in the round on size 2 dp needles ï¾– and got a gauge of 28 sts and 9 rows for 4 in. So way bigger than the 36 sts and 11 rows on the pattern. My question is, do you think sizing down and using size 0 and 1 needles will be enough to fix the problem? I feel like my stitches look nice and even ï¾– no gaps or anything. I wouldn’t have thought it was that loose. Anyway, any advice would be swell!
16136
I am doing this pattern in newborn size and I am up to the point of Shaping Back Shoulders. It seems like all the shaping is going over what will be the right shoulder of the garment. Is this correct? I’m on row 5 now and it says to repeat the instructions in the first set of brackets 4 times, but I only have room to repeat 3 times. I’m wondering if this shaping should be more centered in the back of the garment?
Hi Rebecca.
I’m really glad you wrote in! To answer your question… Yes! The shaping does go past what will be the right shoulder of the garment! The shaping is centered, which you’ll see as you will continue and work over or past what will be the left shoulder of the garment as well.
I hope this helps!
Please let us know if you have any questions!!
Laura
i am following the directions for the cable pattern and mine does not look like the one in your picture. the picture shows a middle section that does not happen when i follow the pattern.
Hi Mary.
I’d love to help get you on track. May I ask you a few questions… Can you describe to me what you’re doing, row by row? What yarn and needles you’re using? If you’re using a thick and thin yarn, the texture of the cable may be getting lost. Same goes for if you’re working at a different gauge than I did, the fabric may not resemble mine. Are you working an even row between the cable rows? When you say middle section… do you mean the middle of the cable or the middle of the sweater?
I apologize for all the questions. I’m just trying to come up with potential causes for this difference you described. Please write us back! I’d really like to help you figure this out!
Thanks.
Laura
Hi. I love to make this one for my little girl!
One question. I have A US 2, 40-inch circular needle and A US 1, 40-inch circular needle – and I also have a set of US 1 & 2 double pointed needles. Do I still need US 1 & 2 16-inch circular needle for this pattern? Thanks.
Hello Miha,
While having the 16″ needles will be easiest for this pattern, you could definitely use the 40″ for the body of the sweater. Use the double points for the sleeves, the socks, and the hat and you’ll be good to go! Happy knitting! -Alyson
looking to correctly sub what yarn I have on hand. I have both isager alpaca 1 and 2. Where does Purl Soho’s Lineweight fall gauge wise in comparison?
Hi Emi,
Thanks for writing in! I have never worked with Isager Alpaca 1 or 2 myself but based on my research, it seems that Alpaca 2 may be closer to Line Weight but still a bit thinner. Line Weight is 494 yards per 100 grams where as Alpaca 2 is 270 yards per 50 grams (540 yards per 100 grams). Gauge wise Alpaca 2 appears to be 6.5 stitches per inch and Line Weight comes in at 6-8 stitches per inch.
I hope that this helps!
Happy knitting!
-Cassy
I am wondering how much of the two skeins remain from this project? I plan on making it for a set of twins and I wondered if I would be able to get two sets out of three skeins or if I would need the full four.
Hello, Vincenza!
Thank you for writing in! Sorry for the delayed response! I recommend getting all four skeins, you’ll most likely dip into to the fourth skein. If you have further questions please let us know! Again, thank you for your question.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Is this cardigan knitted from the top down with one piece for the body or bottom up in three pieces (two fronts and a back) which have to be sewn together?
Hi Fiona,
Thank you for your question. This cardigan is knitted from the top down and is seamless. I hope this answers your question!
Best,
Adam
I absolutely adore this sweater! If you ever decide to expand the size range, I would purchase in an instant. The yarn it’s paired up with is absolutely perfect.
Hi Naomi,
Thank you for your kind words and we will keep your request in mind!
Best,
Cassy
I would just like the pattern for the socks. Our baby is almost here!
Hi Linda,
Thanks you for writing in! Unfortunately, we only sell the pattern for the whole set! I suggest buying the pattern and saving the hat and cardigan for future projects. They are great patterns to have around if you need to give a gift.
Best,
Adam
I love this pattern! I am currently making the 0-3 month size sweater for my baby due in March. I’d love to make the 3-6 month size as well, but was wondering if you sell a cotton yarn that you might recommend, as it will be spring/summer?
Thank you!
Hi Emily,
Thanks for the kind words! I think it’s a great idea to translate this into a plant fiber for summer. I suggest you look at the Kalinka, which is 100% linen or the Habu Bamboo. Both are slightly thicker than the Line Weight, but will work just fine for a growing baby. Unfortunately we don’t carry a lace weight or fingering weight cotton that is suitable for this pattern. I hope you like these options though!
Best,
Adam
Thank you, Adam!
Hi , don’t know how to start row #1. Im doing new born were you purl 8 then 10 8 times, but when you I start row I do not have enough stitches to finish the first cable to the sm. since there is only 8 stitches and the first cable is 10 stitches and night to the next marker.
Hi Nora,
Thanks for writing us! So sorry you’re having trouble. The pattern states: [K2, C4F, k2, make 1 right (m1R), knit to next marker, make 1 left (m1L), slip marker (sm)] 2 times. K2, C4F, k2 equals 8 stitches, which should end up two stitches before your next marker. You’ll also be increasing on either side of the marker and repeating this step twice total. Let me know if you need more help!
-Adam
Hi,
I am knitting the hat and I wonder if there is a type in the pattern description. For the hat body, it says (p. 7):
Round 1: [K2, C4F, knit to next marker, slip marker (sm)] 4 times.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: [C4B 2 times, knit to next marker, sm] 4 times.
I did it as the instruction says and the aran does not look exactly as on the picture.
I wonder whether in the Round 1 it should be written: “K2, C4F 2 times.”
Thanks!
Hi Danja,
Thanks for writing us and sorry for the delay in response! How much of the cable have you knit? Sometimes the definition of the cable doesn’t show through until you have a good two inches. I knit up a swatch and the pattern is correct. Are you maybe cabling the C4B in front instead of back? Let me know! I’m glad to help!
-Adam
Hi! I’m considering making this beautiful set, but before I commit, what would you say the skill level required is? Thanks!
Hi Tricia,
Thanks for the question. I would say this is an advanced intermediate project because of the fact that it’s a top-down cardigan, involves buttonholes, increases and cable repeats. I’d start with the hat to get used to the cables and following our directions and then move on to the cardigan or the booties. Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
I’d like to order this kit. I’ve knitted baby sweaters before but I’ve never made a cable. Are the cables in this pattern easy enough for a first-timer to grasp? Thanks in advance for your help.
Lisa
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for writing in! The cables in this pattern are pretty standard except for the fact that there are so many and that you are cabling in a braided pattern. A three over three cable is very common and you shouldn’t have too hard of a time figuring it out, but keeping up with the cable row sequence is the challenging part. If you are comfortable with following patterns, you should be fine. I suggest practicing the cable on a small swatch to see if you get it.
Best of luck!
-Adam
Has there been any corrections or updates to the layette pattern? I am having issues with the Row 1 of the cables. I have 88 stitches and markers in place but the cable repeats do not match up. I cannot figure out what the issue is?
Will you help me please?
Hi Terra,
Thanks for writing in! There have not been any updates to this pattern. First let’s make sure you’ve done the set up row correctly.
YOKE
Set-Up Row: P8, *place marker (pm), p10 (11), repeat from * to end of row.
For both sizes you purl 8, then you * place a marker, then for the smaller size you purl 10 and for the larger size you purl 11, then do everything from the * over and over again until the end of the row. Now let’s tackle Row 1…
Row 1: [K2, C4F, k2, make 1 right (m1R), knit to next marker, make 1 left (m1L), slip marker (sm)] 2 times, [C4B 2 times, m1R, knit to next marker, m1L, sm, k2, C4F, k2, m1R, knit to next marker, m1L, sm] 2 times, C4B 2 times, [m1R, knit to next marker, m1L, sm, k2, C4F, k2] 2 times. [16 stitches increased]
So for this row, you… k1, c4f, k2, m1r, knit to next marker, m1l, slip marker… you do all of that once more time, completing 2 of the 9 cable columns)
Then you… c4b 2 times, m1r, knit to next marker, m1l, sm, k2 c4f, k1 m1r, knit to next marker m1l, sm…. you do those steps one more time,
completing 4 more of the 9 cable columns, for a total of 6 cable column completed.
Then you… c4b 2 times. You’ve now done 7 cable columns
Then you… m1R, knit to next marker, m1L, slip marker, k2, c4f, k2… you do all of that (from the m1R) one more time. At this point you’ve worked all 9 cable columns and are at the end of the row.
Row 3: [C4B 2 times, knit to next marker, sm] 2 times, [k2, C4F, k2, knit to next marker, sm, C4B 2 times, knit to next marker, sm] 2 times, k2, C4F, k2, [knit to next marker, sm, C4B 2 times] 2 times.
For this row, you… c4b two times, knit to next marker, slip marker and then do all of that one more time. At this point you’ve worked 2 of the 9 columns of cables.
Then you k2, c4f, k2, knit to next marker, sm, c4b two times, knit to next marker, slip marker and then you do all of that one more time. At this point you’ve worked 6 columns of cables.
Then you k2, c4f, k2.
Then you knit to the next marker, slip the marker, c4b two times and then do that chunk again. And now you will have done all 9 columns and are at the end of the row.
Where there are brackets and repeats, etc sometimes it helps to separate them all out to make sure you’re repeating the right portions the proper number of times. Also… please know that once you do the shoulder shaping… you’ll be cruising along bc you’ll be doing the same type of cable in each column in each right side row.
I hope this helps clear some things up. But please feel free to write us back if it hasn’t.
Best,
Cassy
Can I knit the booties with magic loop versus dp needles? Ever since I learned magic loop I NEVER use dps and I am loathe to attempt for such a small guage.
Hi Kristina,
I hear you. I don’t see why not!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Thanks very much! I will give it a go then!
I am stuck on the booties! Breezed through the hat and sweater. I’m ‘magic looping’ on the booties, stitch counts are ok. I seem to be off on the ‘work the heel flap’ section- picked up wrapped stitches, it’s the rest of that section. What could I be doing wrong? I feel like the ssk’s be at the end of the row, and the ask comes in the middle of the row. I’ve set up my magic loop as follows: the 20 stitches are resting together on one needle and the 38 for the heel flap are on the ‘working needle’ with a stitch marker to keep them divided.
Hello Barbara,
I’m so sorry it has taken so long for us to respond to your comment- my apologies! I just knit up a bootie using magic loop and the pattern is correct. The reason the ssk’s and k2tog are not at the end of the row is because you are turning the heel, and to do this you are decreasing on either end of the heel back and forth. Is there something specific that is going wrong? I hope that this makes sense and please let me know if you have any further questions. Feel free to e-mail a picture to [email protected] if you are still stuck.
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi, if I wanted to modify the pattern to make it a pullover instead of a cardigan, do you think I would have to make the hole for the head bigger?
Hi Lucy,
Thanks for writing in! Little ones do tend to have rather large heads proportionally to their bodies. For pullovers for babies, you will traditionally see a slip neck with buttons or a large opening. This accommodates a larger head and makes the piece easier to get on to those who may be a bit squiggly when being dressed. You may want to look into patterns that have a buttoned neck line and see if you can incorporate that into your design!
Best,
Cassy
Hi,
Wondering about levels on your projects. Are they listed somewhere I am missing? What would this project be? I have knitted a baby sweater and the “clean and simple baby dress.”
Never done a cable though…
Thanks!
Jillian
Hi Jillian,
The layette would probably be considered intermediate. There are some small cables, and some shapping that is involved. If you have knitted sweaters, and done the baby dress you should be fine.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Hi,
I just started the hat and it says at the beginning “place marker and join for working in the round”. I’m on my third round, but the marker just sits loose on the needle. Reading on, in the body, round 1, it says “knit to next marker, sm 4 times”
How many markers am I supposed to have placed initially? Sorry, I’m really confused…
Hi Daniela,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! After you cast on, you will place a marker on the needle between the first stitch and the last stitch that you cast on while joining the work in the round. When you knit the next few rows, you will come to the marker each time you complete a row. The marker should sit between the first and last stitches. This will just be one marker until you reach the body section where you will add additional markers!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi,
I’m knitting the hat in the smaller size and I’m working on the crown where the pattern says to “Repeat Rounds 9-12 four more times.” I’m confused. You go from 124 stitches after repeating rounds 1-4, then decrease to 108 stitches after knitting round 12. How do you go from 108 stitches to 44 after only repeating rounds 9-12 four times? Wouldn’t you only be decreasing 32 stitches and end up with 76 or am I missing something?
Thanks for the clarification!
Wait, just kidding, I figured it out. I forgot I was decreasing 8 stitches for rounds 9 *and* 11. Sorry!
I would like to purchase this pattern but want to confirm that it is (as the schematic seems to show) done without side seams. Is it designed top down?
thanks so much.
Laura
Hello Laura,
Thank you for reaching out! Yes, you are correct, this pattern is worked top down without seams.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi there, is there a machine washable yarn you could recommend for this? Wool is great for babies but not everyone wants to care for it.
Hello Amelia,
Thank you for reaching out! I this this would be beautiful in Anzula’s Squishy yarn. It is machine washable and knits up beautifully.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Oh, thank you!!
Hi, I’m knitting the cardigan in 3-6 mos size. I’m about to separate the body + sleeves and it says to work 92 stitches, then place previous 52 stitches on a stitch holder. Do I place the 52 stitches BEFORE the last stitch (the one my yarn is currently coming out of) on my right needle, or the 52 INCLUDING the last stitch on my right needle?
One comment: once the yoke is complete it might help to have a full count of all stitches within the sections (i.e. 8/31/31/31/…etc.) in addition to the total number, which in my case is 256. I forgot to increase a couple times and had a bit of a time figuring out how to correct it, and this would have helped.
Thank you!
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for your question and your thoughtful suggestion- I agree that this would be a helpful addition and I will certainly pass it along!
After you have knit 92 stitches you place the previous 52 stitches on a stitch holder- this includes the stitch that you most recently knit. If you are thinking about the 92 stitches you just knit, this would mean you have the first 40 stitches on the needle and the next 52 on a holder.
I hope this clears things up for you, but let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Sorry, I figured out the answer to my question above — but I was also curious to know if you think the sleeves could be done with 1 long circular needle rather than double pointed?
Hello Sarah,
I’m happy to hear you got it straightened out! You can certainly use magic loop instead of dpns if you would like.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m working on the cardigan…in the Shape Back Shoulders section it says, “working the wrapped stitch with its wrap as you come to it”. What does that mean??
Hi Stacy,
Thanks for reaching out! This step is very important as it closes up the small hole created by wrap and turns. Our Short Row Tutorial has full instructions for how to do this!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi! I bought the layette pattern and the lovely ginger orange yarn my daughter liked to make this layette for my first grandddaughter. I am a self taught knitter and I also have arthritis but I am determined to use this beautiful yarn. Ihave never come across the directions (Make 1 right – m1r and m1L – I get that I’m to repeat the part of the pattern in brackets… but not sure if I am just supposed to loop the yarn around the R and then the L needle? I’m thinking I’m in over my head and maybe you have a different pattern that I could get to use with this lovely yarn?
Hello Laurie,
Thank you for reaching out and congratulations! Make 1 Right and Make 1 Left are actually fairly simple increases techniques once you seem them visually. I have found that, like many knitting techniques, it can seem very confusing when reading a written description. Before switching projects I would check out our Video Tutorial for this technique; .
I hope this helps and let us know how it goes!
Warmly,
Marilla
Your videos are very well done. I’m definitely a visual learner and usually persevere and get it through trial
and error! The yarn is so lovely… I hope I can do the pattern justice! It’s been a long time since I worked with needles so small! Thank you for your reply and help!
Thank you for your kind words! I have total confidence in you, but if you do need any help along the way don’t hesitate to ask.
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi,
I am currently making this set in the suggested yarn Line Weight. I was knitting the cardigan the other day and my friend who has a baby mentioned that wool is usually not preferred for babies. Now I am worried about gifting this to my brother and sister-in-law. Will the halo from the yarn be a choking hazard for the baby and will it cause an allergic reaction?
Thanks!
Emily
Hello Emily,
Thank you for reaching out- these are great questions. The halo from the yarn will not be a chocking hazard and the Wool will only cause an allergic reaction if the baby is allergic to merino wool. Merino, as you know, Is an incredibly soft variety of wool and we have seen many a happy baby, wearing this set, come through our store.
I hope this is helpful and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you so much for your reply, Marilla! I feel more at ease now. 🙂
I am at the section “continue shaping yoke”. In this section, we are supposed to make button holes (the pattern shows 5 buttons). Rows 1-4 create the button hole, but the pattern says to repeat rows 5-8, 2 or 3 times depending on the size…don’t I want to repeat rows 1-4 to make the button holes??? (I have the hard copy pattern). Help!
Hello Stacy,
Thank you for reaching out! Because the buttonholes are distributed throughout the cardigan the holes will also be knit throughout the cardigan. You will make a total of 5 button holes, but on two of them are made in the “continue shaping yoke” section. You will make one the first time you knit rows 1-4 and the second when you repeat rows 1-8.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi! I’m about to start the booties and I’ve never done that sort of cast on before. Did you use only scrap yarn or scrap yarn and the yarn for the booties together?
Hello Chelsea,
Thank you for reaching out! To do your provisional cast on, you will cast on with scrap yarn and then knit into the cast on with your working yarn.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi, I am currently knitting the cardigan (size 3-6 months) and have just finished the body. When I picked up the stitches from the crochet chain I realised that I somehow have 13 stitches, on both sleeves! I have no idea how this happened as I counted twelve when I was knitting onto the crochet chain. I really don’t want to have to pull everything up and start again, can I decrease somehow so it will still look ok? Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks,
Freya
Hello Freya,
Thank you for reaching out! This should’t be to big of a deal, I would just knit two middle stitches from your underarm stitches together. Because it is in the underarm section it will not be visible.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello again, thanks for your advice, I did exactly as you said with the cardigan later that day and have finished it as well as the hat, both are beautiful! I have now knit both socks too, I bound off in pattern as it said and did it as loosely as possible but the cuffs are still far too tight! I have spent the last two hours watching tutorials for various bind offs and trying them but can’t seem to find a good one. They are either neat but too tight or very stretchy but messy. Is there a bind off you can recommend? Sorry if this is a silly question, I am a beginner knitter so this project has been quite a learning curve!
Many thanks, Freya
Hi Freya,
Thanks for reaching out! It can be quite tricky to cast off loosely! I would first try casting off in pattern as you did initially, but use a needle one or two sizes larger than you used to knit the sock for the cast off row. If that doesn’t work, you could try Elizabeth Zimmerman’s Better Bind Off for a tidy stretchy edge. As with all things in knitting, practice makes perfect, so you might want to get the hang of this one on a practice swatch before working it on the socks so it turns out as neat as possible!
Best,
Julianna
Wonderful pattern! My daughter is expecting our first granddaughter in Aug and this was a wonderful project that I’ve worked on during the quarantine. It has brought me such joy in uncertain times. Thank you!
I’m knitting 3-6months of layette cardigan and stuck at Shape Back Shoulders. I’m starting Short row 4: (purl to next market, sm)3 times. If i purl slipping 3 markers that brings me to the last 15 stiches on the needle. Do I purl to 9 stitches to the end? Thought I followed short row 1,2 & 3.
Hi Toby,
Thanks for reaching out! For Short Row 4 you should [Purl to next marker, sm] 3 times, so you will purl to and slip 3 markers, purling the wrapped stitch with its wrap, you will then purl to 9 stitches before next marker, (not all the way to the end of the row) then wrp-t.
I hope this helps but feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you so much, Gianna for getting back to me I ended up pulling back to to short row 1 and started over. With complete silence , I got through shape back shoulders…yeah! The key is quiet and patience.
Hi Toby,
I am happy to help! Working wrap and turns, especially when you are getting used to the process require a lot of patience! I am glad to hear that you figured it out!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi I’m having a hit of trouble and would really appreciate some help. I’ve done shaping of yoke repeating rows 5-8 three times. It says I should have 208 stitches in total but when I counted I got 211. I really don’t want to frog back. Can I do three decreases? But where do you advise me to decrease?
Thank you!
Hi Tia,
Thanks for reaching out! If you are at 211 instead of 208 that is actually ok, since after you repeat Rows 5–8 three times you will then repeat Rows 1–8 once and then Rows 5–8 once again ending with 256 stitches before beginning the SEPARATE BODY + SLEEVES section! So I would recommend to keep going with the repeats until you get to the 256 stitches!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Would you happen to know which size would be right for a 2 year old? Thank you
Hi Katja,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, this pattern is only available in two sizes: 0-3 months and 3-6m months, so we do not currently have a size that would fit a 2-year-old. But thank you for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’ve added the underarm casts on and have started on the body. Do you continue the pattern and knit the underarm cast on stitches, too? Or do you skip over them? It seems as if you do if you’re following the cable pattern 6 times? Many thanks!
Hi Mariel,
Thanks for reaching out! Once you cast on the stitches for the underarms you will continue the pattern working all of the stitches, not skipping over the underarm stitches!
I hope this clears things up, happy kitting!
Gianna
I’m on the “Separate Body & Sleeves” section. Am I supposed to put the stitches in the last sentence (152 for body, 72 stitches for Back and 40 stitches for Front) on scrap yarn or just turn the work around and just start purling and follow instructions in the “Cast on for underarms” section?
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for reaching out. You only need to put the sleeve stitches on scrap yarn, so that’s just the 52 stitches on each side of the cardigan! The stitches across the back and the two front sides should be left on your needles, and as you said, you just need to turn the work and start following the instructions for the Cast-On Row. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I just downloaded this Beautiful Layette pattern. I have purchased your baby Marino cashmere yarn in hopes of using it for this pattern. My concern is… Will my sweater come out bigger than described.
I have yet to do a swatch but I wanted your opinion on using this yarn.
Hi Laurie,
Thanks for reaching out! Which yarn of our are you planning on using? If it is a fingering weight yarn, it should work great with the pattern, but I do suggest starting off with a gauge swatch prior to beginning!
Looking forward to hearing your response!
Gianna
I have a question in regards to starting the sleeves… I have my set of needles on the stitches but I’m confused about the set up row. I have no markers on my sleeves and I wasn’t sure how many I’m supposed to have , and wher to place them. I’m knitting the 0 to 3 month size.
Thank you for your help
Hi Laurie!
Thank you for reaching out! The stitch marker in the Set-up Row for the sleeves was placed in the SEPARATE BODY + SLEEVES portion, when you placed the previous 48 stitches including the marker on hold for each sleeve. Then when you are working the Set-Up Row for the sleeve, you will place another marker for the beginning of round so that each sleeve has two stitch markers.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Lovely pattern!
I am Shaping the sleeve… I’m at a point where it says continue evenly ,repeat Rows one – four of beginning sleeve section until measures 4 1/2 inches .. On round one : do I still need to knit 2 together and continue decreasing or do I leave the 50 stitches.
Thank you
Hi Laurie,
Thank you so much for reaching out! You will be working rows 1-4 of the “Begin Sleeve” section which doesn’t have any decreasing. By the end of the repeat for this section, when you are ready to knit the cuff, you will still have 50 stitches total for the sleeves!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Yowzers! Anyone else have a horrendous time with the tubular cast on with such tiny needles and fine yarn?! Mine keeps ending up a twisted mess. Any tips?!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for writing in, although I’m sorry to hear that you’re having trouble with the tubular cast-on! I’d recommend sending a photo of your work to [email protected], so that we can take a closer look. We’ll be able to give more specific advice once we can visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
I notice it says US 1 (2.5mm) and US 2 (3.0mm). However, I thought US 1 are 2.25 mm and US 2 2.75mm. Which should I use?
Thanks – Karen
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out. The metric sizes we indicate in our patterns might differ from what you’re used to since different needle companies sometimes assign the millimeter measurements to different US sizes. These inconsistencies, while frustrating, are very common when comparing needles, so when in doubt, rely on metric sizes…they’re standardized!
I’d recommend making a gauge swatch before beginning the project, so that you can determine which needles to use. And as long as you find needles with which you can achieve the correct gauge, those will work for the pattern!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, would you recommend using cygnet yarn for this pattern? Thank you
Hi Judy,
Thanks for writing in! I actually think that Cygnet might be a bit too thick for this pattern. The original yarn this was designed in, Line Weight, is quite thin for a fingering weight yarn, whereas Cygnet is on the thicker end of the spectrum. If you’re looking for a different yarn option, then Quartz would be a great choice though!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, what yarn can I use if I want to make this sweater in cotton? Thank you
Hi Judy,
I’d recommend using Picnic Cotton for this sweater! It may be difficult to get the gauge though, since Picnic Cotton is thicker than Line Weight, but as long as you’re close enough it shouldn’t make a huge difference. Plus, babies are always growing, so it will be beneficial to end up with a slightly-too-large sweater. More room to grow into!
All the best,
Lili
Such a sweet pattern! I’m planning to make this for a June baby. I notice the short rows are wraps and I’ll use GSR instead. Will my plan work with the cables?
Hi Val,
That’s a great question! We think your idea will work just fine but if you are in doubt, you could always knit a gauge swatch just to make sure you are happy with the fabric. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I am tempted to make this without buttons and buttonholes and just have an open cardigan. If I do that, would I just need to eliminate the following stitches from the continue shaping yoke and body sections: “make 1 backwards loop” from row 2, “k1” between the C4B stitches on row 3, and the “drop stitch” between the purls from row 4? Thanks so much!
Hi Adah,
Thank you for writing in! That is exactly correct! You will eliminate the button holes by omitting those steps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Thank you Gavriella! I’m very excited to get started once my yarn arrives 🙂
Hello,
Can you suggest a machine washable yarn? I see that Purl Soho no longer carries the Anzula Squishy that you suggested in 2018. Thanks!
Hi Mary,
I would recommend using Fine Print for this pattern! This yarn is a fingering weight yarn, so it’ll work for the pattern, and it’s also machine washable!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much!