Crosshatch Cowl
On one side, our Crosshatch Cowl’s delicate criss-es and crosses appear etched by hand; while on the other, ridges resemble furrowed rows of just-planted seeds. This fabric may abound in complexity and dimensional interest, but it’s really just a simple spin on easy-as-pie stockinette stitch!
Each stroke of the Crosshatch Cowl is drawn with Purl Soho’s single ply, fine merino yarn, aptly named Line Weight. We worked this fingering weight yarn on nice, big needles so that the fabric springs with extra loft and the light shines through!
No one else needs to know how little effort it takes to create this Crosshatch Cowl! Happy knitting! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoCrosshatchCowl, and #PurlSohoLineWeight. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 (2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Line Weight, 100% merino wool yarn. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 494 yards; approximately 450 (900) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- A US 11 (8 mm), 60-inch circular needle
- A stitch marker
Gauge
25 stitches = 4 inches in stitch pattern (blocked)
Size
Narrow (Wide)
- Finished Width (blocked): 7 (14) inches
- Finished Circumference (blocked): 74 inches (long enough to wrap around twice or three times!)
Sample: The sample pictured here uses approximately 1 1/4 skeins and measures 8 3/4 inches wide.
Pattern
Cast on 464 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place marker and join for working in the round being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains in the round, slip one purlwise, remove marker, replace slipped stitch onto left needle, K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, replace stitch marker.
Here’s a short video that may clarify the stitch…
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures approximately 7 (14) inches from the cast-on edge.
Continue to work the stitch pattern to bind off. Here’s how…
[K2tog and slip only the first stitch off the left needle] 2 times, pass the first stitch over (just like a normal bind off), *k2tog and slip the first stitch off the left needle, pass the first stitch over, repeat from * until 2 stitches remain (1 stitch on the left needle and 1 stitch on the right needle), knit the last stitch and pass the first stitch over. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
Weave in the ends and block gently.
LEARN ABOUT LINE WEIGHT + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Line Weight is a lovely choice for this project because it is sumptuously soft with a subtle luster. A lithe single ply of 100% merino wool, this fingering-weight yarn knits up into a smooth fabric that blooms beautifully when you hand wash it. Enjoy 494 yards of beautiful knitting with every 100-gram skein and choose from over 20 riveting colors!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Line Weight patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop merino wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
When I read the directions my brain went wonky! If you knit two together there’s only one stitch on the needle. How then can you–wait a minute–let me give this a try. Nope. Would you pretty please clarify the instructions so that those of us who are marginally stupid can make this lovely cowl? Thanks so much in advance.
Hi Virginia.
Thanks for writing in.
Let me see if I can help clarify! So, to knit 2 together, you insert the right needle into the front legs of two stitches. Typically, after wrapping the working yarn around the right needle and pulling the needle back through the stitches, you let both stitches fall off the left needle (decreasing, turning the two stitches into one), but here… only let that one, first stitch fall off the left needle.
Does that help?!
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Best,
Laura
First of all, thanks much for these free patterns, I’ve made a few and they are much appreciated! Having said that, I’m having a very frustrating time with this one. After casting on 464 (phew!!) and then desperately trying to join in the round without any twisting (phew!) I can’t seem to get the hang of this pattern. I’ve sat in front of my computer with my needles and tried several times. If I understand correctly, after inserting the right needle into two stitches on the left hand needle, wrapping the yarn and then putting the needle between the two stiches so that only one transfers to the right needle….? But now, I have NO room to maneuver my right needle back into two more stitches on the left. It’s just MUCH too tight. Perhaps I’m using a yarn without enough “give”? Of course, I can’t find the label right now, but its a fingering weight and I’m knitting double.
Hi Anne!
Bravo on the cast on. It’s no small feat!!!
I think I understand where you’re caught!
Once you’ve inserted the needle into the two stitches and have wrapped the yarn around the right needle, pull the right needle back through BOTH stitches, at this point just let one of the two (the one closes to the tip) that you’ve knit together drop off the left needle.
I think then you’ll be able to maneuver ok.
One question though… when you say knitting double… are you pulling two strands of fingering weight yarn, if so… you’ll probably need to be on a US15 or 17 or something quite large. The yarn I used is thick lace or thin fingering weight and I used US11s. You have to needle up quite a lot for this stitch to be nice and airy. It’s very dense. This might be another reason you’re having a hard time getting your needles where you want them!
Please let me know if you have any questions at all.
Laura
I love the Purl Bee patterns. I wish that sometimes you would put some of the trickier parts of patterns on youtube. It would be so much easier to see it as opposed to trying to understand it from written directions. I would love to see these videos.
Between your response to me and the one to Anne, I think I’ve got it! Thank you so much.
I love the look of this pattern and I’m currently trying knit one of your other free scarf patterns. In the other pattern you have included a video showing how the stitch is done, any chance of doing one for this pattern? I’m only a very new beginner to knitting and a video would be a great help.
Hi Clarissa.
Thanks for writing in and for your request. We’ll try and get this on the docket. In the meantime though, can I help walk you through the steps?! I’d love to help get you on your way!
Laura
I’m with Clarissa on this one – having a bit of a brain-splodey moment trying to figure this out without a visual and would love a video or picture tutorial for the steps if you could. Thanks.
Hey Rachel.
Thanks for the request. We’ll try and get more info up soon!
Stay tuned.
Laura
Hi Laura, thanks so much for your offer to help. I’ve read all the other comments and suggestions but I’m still a little lost. I may have to wait and hope you’re able to add a video.
It looks like you K2 together, only slip off the first stitch of the K2 together. Next, K2 together with the second stitch of the K2 together and the next stitch.
Diane!
That is absolutely right!!
Thanks for helping clarify.
Laura
I understand (I think) your response to Virginia, but now I am confused again. I don’t see anywhere you say to drop the second stitch. (diane’s question)
I would also love to see a video of this. I knit both continental and English and would love to see both methods for this stitch– it’s one I’ve never done.
Finally, is it 1 or 2 skeins? I have a nice skein of fingering that I’d like to use for this and I’d like to know the yardage before I’m so short that it’s too narrow.
Thank you
Hi AlisinWnderlnd,
Thanks for writing in.
Regarding the size… There are two sizes, for a 7 inch wide cowl you’ll need 1 skein. For a 14 inch wide cowl, you’ll need 2 skeins. The sample pictured here uses over a skein and measures 8 3/4 inches wide. If you need to reference any of this information, you can find it under the section titled “SIZES”.
The circumference of this cowl is quite generous. It loops around 3 times. With a smaller circumference you’ll be able to accomplish a nice width with just one skein. You could try for something around 58-60 inches.
Regarding the stitch pattern… Once you knit the first and second stitches of the round together and drop the first stitch off the left needle, you’ll continue that step… next you’ll knit the second and third stitch of the round together and drop the second stitch off, then you’ll work the third and forth stitch of the round together and drop the third stitch off… and so on until you get to the last stitch of the round. At this point you’ll have to slip a stitch and move the end of round marker, replace the slipped stitch so you can work the last stitch of the round together with the first stitch of the round, then replace the end-of-round marker.
I hope this helps clarify things!
Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Laura
Thank you for the clarification – as a well seasoned knitter my brain was a little fuzzy reading the instructions as well.
What a gorgeous pattern! Thank you for sharing.
This is so lovely. I get constant pleas for lap robes from the local Cancer clinic and was wondering how to knit this pattern flat. Any help would be so appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Yanagi.
Thanks for your interest in the pattern! Here is how this stitch pattern goes, knit flat…
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
Please note… When worked densely, an interesting, not untidy edge forms. When worked loosely however, (like here, using fingering weight on nice big needles) the edges become quite a bit messier looking. This is one of the reasons, at this gauge, we decided to make a cowl rather than a wrap or scarf.
Hope this helps!
Laura
Thank you so much. I’m sure I can fiddle with something until I get a neat edge. I really appreciate such a kind and quick reply.
So excited! I have 1 skein of line weight in dragonfly blue that I’ve been trying to find a pattern for. this is perfect!
Can you please translate the pattern stitch for using 2 straight needles?
Hi Arlene.
Thanks for your interest in the pattern!
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
Please note… When worked densely, an interesting, not untidy edge forms. When worked loosely however, (like here, using fingering weight on nice big needles) the edges become quite a bit messier looking. This is one of the reasons, at this gauge, we decided to make a cowl rather than a wrap or scarf.
Hope this helps!
Laura
I’m pretty new to knitting, so I need some clarification. Why does the materials list say — “1 (2) skein(s)” of yarn when the cowl is in only one size. Do I need one or two skeins to knit it as shown? Thanks!
Hi Lynda.
There are two sizes: Narrow (Wide)
The Narrow sizes uses one skein and is 7 inches wide. The Wide size uses two skeins, measuring 14 inches wide. The sample uses about a skein and plus some and measures 8 3/4 inches wide.
Hope this helps!
Laura
Does long tail cast on work with this pattern
Hi Merella.
Yes it does. I used a long tail cast on for this!
Thanks.
Laura
Laura,
I plan to use the long tail cast on. Did you cast on very loosely or just normally? (I want to get it right on the first try if I can!)
Thanks,
Amber
Hi Amber.
I used a Long Tail Cast On as well and did it with a normal, middle-of-the-road tension… not too tight, not too loose. Hope this helps. Let us know if you have any questions! -Laura
Hello, I’m still confused, how many stitches are left on your needles after the first row?
Hi Gill.
The stitch count is the same at the end of each Round.
Is there a specific part of the pattern that I can try and talk you through?
Please write us back. We’d love to help get you on your way!
Laura
Do you really need a 60 inch cord? Addi doesn’t seem to have one that long for a U. S. #11.
This looks like a fun project.
Thanks
Hi Kathy.
I think you could get away with a shorter needle. The Line Weight really squishes up if needed. If you use shorter needles though, maybe use point protectors, just to be safe!
Thanks,
Laura
Just wanted to comment that your PRINT tool is fantastic, giving us options to create a PDF, email or just print as is. It is far superior to other websites’ provisions for printing free patterns. I am ever grateful, (and of course, for the lovely patterns too.) Many thanks!
June!
You just made our team’s day!
Thanks for writing in and about the print button!
You are very welcome for the patterns.
Thanks for the kind words and support.
Laura
If only 1 stitch remains in the round (I’m assuming on the left needle point) how do you K2tog? Please let me know when the video of this is made.
Hi Fern.
Thanks for writing in.
I’m not sure when we’ll have a video for this, but in the meantime maybe I can try and talk (or type) you through it…
If you reference the last part of Row 1.. once you get to where one stitch remains, you’re going to slip one stitch purlwise, remove the end-of-round marker, replace slipped stitch onto left needle, then k2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, then you’ll replace the stitch marker… essentially, you’re working the last stitch of the round with the first stitch of the round and with each round the “end of round” moves over one stitch.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
How might we knit something like this in the flat? back and forth? Not for a cowl but maybe a ordinary scarf. I have a pile of alpaca but men don’t like cowls as much as a plain scarf. Ideas? Or do same stitch in both directions? When I tried back and forth, I had one stitch left at the end and just knit it and still had the same number of stitches as the previous row. How about this?
Hi Mary.
Thanks for your interest in the pattern! You are absolutely right about just knitting that last stitch.
Here’s the instructions for working this pattern flat…
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
Please note… When worked densely, an interesting, not untidy edge forms. When worked loosely however, (like here, using fingering weight on nice big needles) the edges become quite a bit messier. This is one of the reasons, at this gauge, we decided to make a cowl rather than a wrap or scarf. For a men’s scarf though I imagine you’ll be working it a bit tighter than I did here. You’ll still need to jump up from the recommended needle size, but I’m guessing you’ve already figured that out in your swatching!
Hope this helps!
Let me know if you have any questions.
Laura
Could you clarify which size is shown (or are both)? It seems the larger one is modeled, and the smaller is on the flat surface, but I’d like to know for sure. Thanks!
Hi Debbie!
The sample is 8 3/4 inches wide, it is between the two sizes. We really wanted to keep working on it until it was 14 inches, but we were too excited to postpone the posting of this project so we bound off and went ahead and shared it!
All of the sizing info can be found in the section titled “SIZES” if you want a quick to reference this info later.
Thanks for writing in and let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
I have done a cowl in a similar stitch called the herringbone stitch. It’s a gorgeous effect. Difference is SSK instead of K2Tog and dropping only first stitch. Very time consuming though. I recommend a needle a few sizes larger for your yarn. Can be very tight
Hi! I went to my local yarn shop to look at fingering weight yarn for this project, and I became completely confused. Line/Fingering weight yarn plus size 11 needles is going to result in some extremely lacy, large stitches. Really #11s? Or is there a typo? My imagination can’t make the picture you shared match up with essentially sock yarn on size 11 needles…Help?
Hi Helene.
Yes, US #11s.
This stitch is extremely dense and to get the light airy feel, I used US11s. If you’re a looser knitter than I am, you may only need US #9s or 10s.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hello,
I’ve been trying to practice this stitch on regular yarn (before CO the 400+ sts) and still can’t get the hang of it, so hopefully you will have a video tutorial for the stitch. Is there another name to this stitch pattern? (Maybe someone out there in YouTube world already made the video).
Also, if I were to shortened the length of the cowl (i.e. would like it to go around twice, max.) is there a multiply number of stitches that needs to be satisfied when casting-on? E.g. multiply of 8 sts or multiply of 8 sts +2, etc.
Many thanks,
Claire
Hi Claire.
This stitch is often called “Twice Knit” and it works with any stitch count.
Thanks.
Laura
Thank you Laura, for providing the stitch name. I got this video, and now I GOT IT! 😀
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zgi2C9gQXEE
What a feeling it is to finally understand how to make a stitch. Thanks for the elegant yet simple pattern.
Cheers,
Claire
Thanks for the lovely pattern. I have used quite a few of your free patterns and also bought one of them. I have some 4 ply merino bambino pure wool with me. Actually 5 balls of 95 yards each. Would this he sufficient to make this cowl as it is sized?.
Thanks
Hi Rita.
Thanks for writing in.
475 yards should be plenty to make a cowl! If you’re working at the same gauge as I did here, you should be able to get a cowl that is approximately 74 inches in circumference and 7 inches wide. If you want it to be wider (the sample pictured here is 8 3/4 inches wide), you may want to consider casting on fewer stitches. The 74-inch circumference cowl pictured here can loop around 3 times, but if you cast on for about 58-60 inches, the cowl will still loop around twice and you’ll have plenty of yarn for a nice generous width!
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
do you mean i cast on around 60 stitches lesser?
Oh Rita.
I am so sorry for the confusion… I meant to write “inches” there, not “stitches”. Cast on for 58 to 60 inches. To do that, take your gauge and multiply it by your desired finished circumference and cast that number on!
Let me know if you have any questions.
Sorry again about that typo.
Laura
Having only read the instructions (and comments) and not tried this pattern…I can’t imagine how this works because it seems you are continually decreasing by knitting two together and dropping one. Of course that can’t be the case, but perhaps you can explain how this works.
I, too, really appreciate the patterns. Most recently I have made the brioche cowl, one about 11 inches wide and the second about 7 inches. The pattern was fun once I got the hang of it and receives many compliments…Thank you!
But then you re-knit the stitch that you didn’t drop from the previous knit two together. So by knitting the stitch twice (once in the previous k2t and then in the next k2t) you have not decreased.
Thanks for all of these patterns 🙂
They are all beautiful! And really inspire me to try new things, they challenge me, and in doing so make me into a better knitter.
So… thank you !
I didn’t really grasp this pattern at first, but after I read all of these comments I think (cross my fingers) I might have it!
Sooooo after i cast on my stiches; I k2tog leaving second stitch on left needle but pulling right needless through both. And repeat… right?
Thanks ~Ashley
Hi Ashley.
Thank you for the kind words!
It sounds like you’ve got it… insert the right needle to k2tog as normal, pulling the needle and yarn through both, but then only let one stitch drop from the left needle.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Laura
To all those very confused about the ‘dropping the first stitch only’ part – I was with you, gave it a few goes but kept getting all messed up. I ended up googling to find a video – while there isn’t one for this particular stitch, the herringbone stitch tutorials are conceptually similar, and watching those cleared it up for me. Maybe try watching those? Hope it helps!
A day later, now almost half way through my cowl (I am using a dk, extremely soft alpaca on 13 needles and it coming up a treat!) We are about to hit a very cold snap this week in southern Australia, so racing to finish so I can wear it later in the week. Thanks for yet another amazing pattern purl bee ladies!
Is purl bee office in NYC ? Do you offer a class? I can take the train into NYC .
Susan
Hi Susan.
Purl Soho does offer classes and they take place in our shop which is in the Soho neighborhood of New York City.
Here is a link to our class schedule: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/classes-and-events/
Here is a link to our Classes FAQ page: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/classes-faqs/
Let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks!
Laura
There is an excellent video here:
http://www.theweeklystitch.com/2011/12/herringbone-stitch.html
showing a very similar stitch – the only difference is she’s knitting through the back loop instead of the front. Close enough that I could figure it out from watching!
Thanks for posting the instructions to knit flat to make a scarf. However, would you confirm that that to make a scarf I would still cast on 400+ stitches and build it from the long end? (Versus building it from the short end like most scarves).
Hi Kim.
Great question… You could work it either way! Knitter’s choice!
Thanks,
Laura
Thank you for this beautiful pattern! I’d like to make a baby blanket using this stitch, and I see from the previous comments that you’ve already kindly provided the pattern for knitting it flat. I’m wondering about an edging/border for the blanket. Would you recommend anything in particular, or just a garter stitch border? Thanks in advance for your advice!
Hi Claire H.
It’s going to be hard to find an edge stitch that matches the row gauge of this twice knit fabric. so I think I would probably work the piece flat just in stitch pattern and then go back and pick up along the edge doing an attached iCord. That way you can pick up as many as you need to ensure the piece doesn’t pull or pucker.
Hope this helps.
Thanks.
Laura
Laura
Thank you! I hadn’t thought about the i-cord edge. Good idea!
Is anyone else but me having problems with the cable on the needles just twisting horribly? Is it the nature of this stitch or am I doing something wrong?
How many stitches to cast on for a single – no looping – cowl in fingering yarn?
Hi Nancy.
It depends on how snug you want it. You’ll probably want enough stitches to make somewhere between an 18- and 22-inch circumference. If it’s helpful to see other single – no looping – cowls, to determine what circumference you’d like, maybe check out some of the projects below.
The circumference of our…
Our Bandana Cowl is 19 inches https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2011/10/11/sweet-stitching-with-erin-bandana-cowl/
Our Briaded Cable Cowl is decreases from 26 inches at the bottom to 20 inches at the top https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/02/07/braided-cable-cowl/
Our Lovely Ribbed Cowl is 18 inches https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2012/11/01/lovely-ribbed-cowl/
Our Ombre Cowl decreases from 26 inches at the bottom to 17 inches at the top https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/08/25/lauras-loop-ombre-cowl/
Our Reversible Cowl decreases from 22 1/4 inches at the bottom to 20 inches at the top https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2015/02/20/reversible-cowl/
Our Salt and Pepper Cowl is 22 inches https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/05/09/lauras-loop-salt-and-pepper-cowl/
Our Structured Alpaca Cowl decreases from 21 inches at the bottom to 17 inches at the top https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/11/26/lauras-loop-structured-alpaca-cowl-in-purl-sohos-new-alpaca/
Once you know what circumference you’d like, simply multiply that dimension by your gauge to the inch.
Let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
It appears you have an error in your pattern. You don’t say that the second row is a purl row. You do not mention purling at all. I only figured it out once I tried the pattern and it just looked like a very prominent garter stitch, then read the comments.
Should it be:
Round 1: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains in the round, slip one purlwise, remove marker, replace slipped stitch onto left needle, P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, replace stitch marker.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures approximately 8 3/4 inches from the cast-on edge.
Hi Francie.
Thanks for writing in.
After casting on, there is just one round of pattern that you repeat over and over and over again until you bind off.
If you were to work this pattern flat, rather than in the round, then yes… the second row would be a purl row. But since this cowl is worked in the round, every row is the same. It’s kind of like working stockinette stitch in the round, your always on the “right”, knit side.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Laura
Thanks PurlBee for another fabulous and free pattern!
I bought your Line Weight in the same white that you used because I think that colour is a great match for the pattern.
And, I see that some people are struggling with the stitch – but I found it easy to do by simply following what you wrote (maybe don’t think about it too much?)
Thanks again for all the amazing inspiration you provide!
Okie Dokie, after reading through all the comments, I decided to give it a try. I got my size 11 , 60″ cables, and the yarn in Heirloom White. Love this yarn, it’s so soft. I cast on, loosely, 464 stitches. Then I followed your directions and other clarifications. I think I have it correct. Knit 2 together but only drop off the stitch at the tip of the needle.Then add that “second stitch” to the one beside it to knit together, and drop That One off. It’s a very unique pattern, and I was looking for a different looking cowl for my daughter in law. I think it will be gorgeous. Thank you!
I’m so excited to try this pattern and am planning to use it for Christmas gifts this year! Thank you for the inspiration and yarn!
A huge thank you to Claire who attached the video of the stitch
May 11. I kept getting stuck mentally on the idea knit 2 together but don’t. Your instructions in the comments helped and it helped to see it as well. Thanks again! Tina
Hello,
I understand the pattern and can do it, but it’s very very tight. Am I doing something wrong? Did I cast on too tightly? Should this be a very very loose cast?
Thank you!
Hi Shella.
You aren’t doing a thing wrong. It’s a very dense stitch. I would maybe try going up a needle size. Also, once you get the hang of the stitch, your tension may loosen up some, so I’d definitely recommend starting with a swatch!
Thanks for writing in.
Let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
The cast on and the first round were very tight for me, but round 2 got much more comfortable!
Hi
My name is Anne and I am from Denmark. I am trying to convert your recipe into centimeters. My problem is the needle. An US#11 seems quite thick on my needleconverter (it’s a 8 mm) and therefor I get confused over the 464 stitches??
So my question is: Should I use a 3mm?? That is the same as an imperial #11
Thank you 🙂
Anne
Hi Anne.
Yes! I did use a US#11 which is the same as an 8mm.
I know the needle size must seem outrageously large for the thickness of the yarn, but because this stitch pattern is so dense, you have to use a really big needle in order to create an airy and drapey fabric.
Let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Hi guys,
I love your patterns! just wondering what the best cast on to use for this pattern is?
Cheers,
Cassie
Hi Cassie.
Great question. Thanks for writing in.
I used a Long-Tail Cast On for this project. I’m sure there are other great cast ons that would work. I just liked how invisible the Long-Tail was.
Best,
Laura
Thank you so much for posting this pattern! I just finished a herringbone cowl and was curious about what a cowl would look like knitting through the front loop on all rounds. Add that in with the Purl Soho line weight just sitting in my stash and this was a match made in knitting heaven! Thanks again!
Thank you so much for this pattern and all your patterns – they are beautiful and you are so helpful to answer all our questions!
I know you touched on this in earlier comments, but I just wanted to confirm two things before starting:
1) the number of stitches doesn’t matter (could be odd or even number and the pattern still works? just wanted to make sure if I slightly miscount the 464 stitches it will be ok!)
2) A lot of websites for twice knit knitting suggest doing a knit-on cast-on where you knit into two stitches, e.g. http://www.sapphiresnpurls.com/2011/10/twice-knit-knitting.html. I know you used long tail cast on, are there any pros/cons to doing the knit-on cast on, which I think I would prefer?
Thank you so much again! I’m finalizing my cart with some of your sale yarns today 🙂 So excited!
Hi Sarah.
Thanks for writing in.
1) Any cast on number will work, even or odd.
2) Thanks for sharing this link. I’ve not tried that cast on before. I enjoyed the long-tail for this project, but I’m sure there are loads of cast ons that would work.
Thanks again for writing in.
Happy Sale Shopping.
Best,
Laura
I started this cowl and it looks just like the herringbone stich, when I went back to the herringbone pattern it reads the same, knitt 2tog drop first stich, right?
Hi Suzette.
Thanks for writing in.
Yes, you are right. This is very similar to the Big Herrinbone Cowl pattern. This pattern uses one of the two rounds of that pattern. The end of round is worked slightly differently, but they are very similar, you are correct!
Best,
Laura
Hi again,
I made a mistake on round two and accidentally switched the direction of my knitting – I need to rip out about a 100 stitches to get back on track. Any suggestions for how to do this without having to just unravel everything? When I pulled out a stitch or two it seems like the loops just melt away and I don’t know how to pick them up again…
Sarah
Hi Sarah.
Thanks for writing in.
You could take a much smaller needle, like a US4 or similar, and draw it through (picking up each stitch of) your last good round of work. That way when you do slip out your working needle and start unraveling your fabric, the spare needle will stop the yarn from unraveling further than you want. Then you can just use your working needle to work off of the spare needle until all of your stitches are back on your working needle.
Hope this helps!
Good luck!
Laura
HI. This really is a beautiful cowl. I am considering making it. Where would I find the sizing chart? Thanks much, Marion
Hi Marion.
Just below the intro and the list of materials, there is a section titled “Gauge”, the following section titled “Sizes.
With 1 (2) skein(s) you can make a cowl that 7 (14) inches wide and 74 inches in circumference. This 74-inch circumference is long enough to wrap around three times. If you’d like a cowl that wraps just twice, I’ve suggested to a few other readers to cast on for a 58 to 60 inch circumference. To calculate the cast on number, take your gauge to the inch and multiply it by your desired length.
I hope this helps.
Please let us know if you have any questions. -Laura
Hi,
I’m trying to do the crosshatch stitche, but I would like to know how do I do on row 2? do you do exactly the same, or do you purl all the row?
Thank you! Rapha (from pAris**)
Hi Raphaelle.
Are you working in the round or are you working flat?
If you are working in the round, you just continue to repeat Round 1.
If you are working flay, for Row 2 you do the same steps as with Row 1, but you p2tog rather than k2tog.
Let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks. -Laura
I noticed I made a mistake on a couple rows back; dropped both stitches off the needle after the k2tog instead of one, creating a hole. I am an experienced knitter, but can’t seem to figure out how to “fix” it without unknitting back to that point. Is that possible?
Hi Deborah.
Thanks for writing in.
Sadly, I do not have a solution for you. I think I would either use a threaded tapestry needle to try and sew a length of yarn where one should be or I would rip back to the mistake. I bet it is possible to fix, but I’m not sure how you drop stitches down several rows in this fabric, plus I fear that even if I did, it might be impossible to explain with words here in this comment box.
I’m so sorry to not be of more assistance. Please do write back in if you have any questions or if you find a solution!! Thanks. -Laura
Hi Laura,
I an idiot when it comes to gauging so I would appreciate it very much if you could advise me on the number of stitches I should cast on for the cowl to be wrap around just twice?
I’m attempting the pattern with US#9 needles and 8ply yarn.
Thank you!
Justine
Hi Justine.
I’d love to help you figure this out, but I’m going to need a bit more information.
If you can give me your gauge with the yarn you’re using on your chosen needles… then I can take that number of stitches to the inch and multiply it by 58 inches (I find 58 to 60 inches a good circumference for a double wrapping cowl). The resulting number will be your cast on number!
I’m sorry I can’t be more specific, but since I used a very very thin yarn on a very very fat needle and you’re planning to use a dk/light worsted/8ply yarn on an only slightly larger than recommended needle… there are too many changing variables for me to calculate a cast on. It would be a totally wild guess and I don’t want to lead you astray!
One quick note… the stitch is incredibly dense. If you want to use a 8ply yarn… I would recommend going up to at least a size US 11 or US 13 or something. I used an 11 with a light fingering weight. The stitch may be too dense to work on a US 9 with an 8ply.
Please write me back though and I can help you figure this out
Laura
Hi Laura,
As you mentioned, I tried making a swatch with the US 9 and it turned out incredibly dense. I switch to the next pair I have which was US 15.
The gauge was 25 stitches = 4.5 inches in stitch pattern (blocked)
Is it because I’m using US 15 with an 8 ply, the swatch did not turn out as dainty looking as yours?
Please do advise.
Hi Justine.
Yes! The thicker the yarn the larger the needle you’ll need to accomplish that airy feel. The daintiness definitely comes for the thin yarn we chose to use.
If you wanted to make a cowl with the gauge of 25 stitches to 4.5 inches, I would cast on about 328 stitches. Here is how I got that…
25 / 4.5 = 5.5
5.5 * 59 inches = 327.7
And then I rounded up.
Hope this helps!
Let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
Hi Laura,
Thanks so much for the advise!
Sadly my brother who I was planning to make the cowl for prefer a stockinette stitch cowl.
For US 9 with 8ply yarn, the gauge was 20 stitches = 4 inches in stitch pattern
Which would be 300 stitches in total?
Would the result be long enough?
And would it too heavy, for example the front would be so heavy and kept pulling the cowl down?
As I made a scarf before, using the same needles and yarn with a similar stitch, The result was that the two ends was too heavy and was not able to be wrap round twice properly.
Hi Justine.
300 stitches should be perfect! At 5 stitches per inch, you’d end up with a cowl measuring 60 inches in circumference. If you’re worried about it being too heavy, you could make it 2 inches shorter, then it would be more snug and have less opportunity to drape. Also, the width will affect the drape. If it is very narrow it will fall more like a necklace (imagine a 60-inch strand of yarn or an icord). Conversely, if it is extremely wide, it’ll be more like a neck brace. I would suggest checking out all of our cowls to see what dimensions suit the style you’re going for. https://www.purlsoho.com/create/category/knit/projects-knit/accessories-projects-knit/cowls-scarves-shawls-wraps-projects-knit/
Please let u know if you have any questions!
Laura.
Hello! I’m new to knitting, and I really love your site. I was wondering if this pattern can be worked in an aran/worsted weight yarn? And would you be able to tell me if this changes the needle size (in order to keep the springiness)? Thank you so much!
Hi Lianne.
It can!
The stitch is creates a pretty dense fabric, so I would recommend going up quite a few needle sizes from what the manufacturer suggests.
For my Crosshatch Cowl, I used a US 11 with a fingering weight yarn, but I was also aiming for a very airy and lightweight look and feel. With a Worsted/Aran weight yarn, you’ll probably want to try a US 15 or US 17 to get some nice drape to your fabric.
Thanks for writing in! Let us know how it goes and what needle you decide on!
Laura
I was thinking of trying this cowl with some worsted weight yarn and I got size 17 needles, I was just wondering if I would change the number of stitches I would need to cast on.
Thank you for your beautiful patterns.
Hi Christine.
Yes! Definitely change the cast on number. I recommend you make a swatch to find out the gauge of the worsted weight yarn on side US 17 needles in this stitch. Then you can take the number of stitches per inch and multiply it by your desired circumference. For instance, if you wanted a 60-inch cowl and you were getting 4 stitches to the inch, you would take 60 x 4 and cast on 240 stitches.
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Would it be all right to knit the first row before joining in the round so I can be sure I don’t twist it? Or to do the pattern straight for the first row before joining.? I have cast on twice now and I don’t want to do it again
Hi Carolyn.
Great question. It’s definitely a lot of stitches to keep from twisting before you join. I think working a row flat before joining in the round is a fantastic idea. Since that first row will be a wrong side row, use the same technique as described in the pattern, but purlwise, so p2tog rather than k2tog.
Let us know how it goes! And let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for writing in!
Laura
Hello! I just found your fantastic webside and fell in love with this cowl.
However I am a little bit unsure. I have a gorgeous yarn, but it is for 3-3.5 (mm)needles and 150m/50g
What needle size would you recommend? Still a US#11? Or do you think that the yarn is too thick?
Thank you very much!
Hello Fabienne,
The yarn we used for this cowl is intended for anywhere from a 2mm-4mm needle size. Since the stitch pattern is so dense, we compensated for that by using the much larger needle size of a US#11 or an 8mm needle.
If your yarn recommends using a 3-3.5 mm needle, then it should work, but may be slightly thicker than the yarn we used in the sample. Its always best to check your gauge, you might even want to go up to a US#13 / 9mm just to make sure its not too tight!
Best of luck! -Alyson
Thank you very much for this lovely site with so many beautiful handcrafts. A real treasure trove!
I wat to make some wristlets and was thinking to use this crosshatch stitch. Can you recommend it? Is it a little bit elastic?
Thank you ver much for your help
Yasmen
Hi Yasmen.
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words about this site! I’m glad you found us!
I’m not sure this stitch is going to be great for wristlets. It does have the appearance of having a great deal of elasticity, but it’s actually a very dense stitch. I would try a 1 x 1 rib and maybe pull two strands of very thin merino yarn together. I love making ribbed hats with two strands of Line Weight because of the extra elasticity I get.
Thanks again for writing in!
Laura
Hi!
Thank you for this lovely patterns.
I wonder if I can use my For Better or Worsted or Cloud skeins for this project. Will it be too crispy with this yarns? If it would work with either one what would be a better (closer?) feel to the light weight? I haven’t tried Light Weight yet.
Thank you!
Hello Alison!
Anzula Cloud is a hair thinner than Purl Soho Line Weight, but it is much more similar than the For Better or Worsted. Cloud wouldn’t be crispy, it would be light and fluffy! Give it a shot and make sure to check your gauge in case it turns out slightly different.
Enjoy the pattern! -Alyson
In knitting this pattern, would using an Addi turbo “rocket” circular needle work better, or do you suggest a regular Addi turbo circular needle?
Hello Sharon!
The only difference between the rockets and the turbos is that the rockets have extra sharp tips. I love using the sharper tips and think it would be awesome for this fine gauge of yarn.
Happy knitting! -Alyson
Hi Alyson,
I’m making my cowl with Line Weight and the knit fabric is SO SOFT and puffy. Really perfect. My only concern is that I cast on too tightly. I’m about two inches knit length and my edge is curling a lot. I also found the stitches were really tight when knitting the first row even though I cast on long tail method with (I thought) normal tension. After the first row everything loosened up and it was easy to knit, but now I’m wondering if I should unravel and cast on more loosely. What do you suggest?
Thanks!
Hi Sharon.
Laura here. Alyson is away on vacation, but I designed this piece and would love to answer your question for you. Regarding the edges… this fabric is going to curl some. Even after blocking, the edge will want to roll just a bit. The curling you’re experiencing might be due in part though to your tight cast on.
I cast on with normal to slightly loose tension for this project. The stitch is very dense and even on such large needles, that first row can be a bit uncomfortable to work. If you don’t mind starting over, I think you may be happy to do the cast on over and more loosely.
I do hope this helps. Please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
I am like many of the commenters. Loved the look, but was confused. Especially if I dropped a stitch and needed to pick it up. I decided to try this stitch in a short version and see how I did. I watched the stitches as I knit and finally figured what I should do if a mistake happens. I then cast on (using the knit co) and did it using my circular needles doubled. This edge is very nice and even and gave me room to maneuver. I, however do have a mistake. I was so pleased with myself on learning the pattern that when I joined in the round I kept on knitting – not the purl you have. Is this going to impact this scarf? I adore the texture of this scarf and the look.
Thanks so much.
Judi
Hi Judi.
Thanks for writing in. I’m not sure I entirely understand your question. Which purl are you referring to? Also, are you making a scarf or a cowl? The pattern here is for a cowl. You mention connecting in the round, so I’m guess a cowl, but then you mentioned if not working the purl is going to impact the scarf. I just want to make sure I understand what you’re working on and your question before answering so I don’t spread any misinformation!
Please write us back! I’d love to help you however I can.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I have a question. This is the exact stitch I need to use for a shawl I am making for my daughter for her wedding. Bus it possible to use this stitch on straight needles (not in the round). I have been trying but one side goes in instead of being straight because of K2TOG at the beginning. Thanks for any information you could give me!
Hi Jennifer.
Yes! This stitch can be worked flat…
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
May I ask what thickness yarn you’re working with? When worked densely, an interesting, not untidy edge forms. When worked loosely however, (like here, using fingering weight on nice big needles) the edges become quite a bit messier looking. This is one of the reasons, at this gauge, we decided to make a cowl rather than a wrap or scarf.
Once this project developed into a cowl, I never went back to figure out how to work the selvedge stitches of this pattern when worked flat with thin yarn. If you figure something out I’d love to hear about it!
Thanks for writing in.
Congrats to your daughter!
Laura
Hello!
Not that this reply is nearly a year old, but I do have a simple question: if working flat, so as to make a scarf, do I need to cast-on stitches in multiples of two? Any number?
I’m trading a scarf for an original painting with a coworker, and for some reason logic is alluding me in this conundrum.
Also, I just got my solution of Line Weight in Peacock blue — absolutely exquisite. I might as well be knitting in gold!
Hi Bill,
Thanks for writing in! And thanks for your request!
Here is the pattern for working this stitch flat, rather than in the round. You will have to cast on multiples of two.
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
When worked densely, an interesting, not untidy edge forms. When worked loosely however, (like here, using fingering weight on nice big needles) the edges become quite a bit messier looking. This is one of the reasons, at this gauge, we decided to make a cowl rather than a wrap or scarf.
Please let us know if you have any questions!
-Adam
It is the sl st purlwise – I am just following the pattern around.
Did I confuse about doing it in a short version? That was just to practice and understand what the stitch looked like if I messed up and needed to pick up. I have co 464 st – wow.
Thanks
Judi
Hi Judi.
It sounds like you’re on your way! That slip stitch purlwise is just to remove and then replace the end-of-round marker.
Thanks for writing us back. Please reach out again if you have any additional questions!
Enjoy the pattern.
Laura
I love this pattern. Thank you.
I am concerned about the edges rolling even after blocking. Will the attached I-cord prevent this?
Hi Mari Ann.
Thank you for writing in. The edges do roll a bit, an attached i-cord would definitely help! Great idea. Let us know how it goes!!
Laura
I just started this pattern and so far it’s going great! But I don’t understand the last paragraph of the instructions. Could you make a video or post photos about how do it please?
Hello Remmy!
What is most confusing for you about the last paragraph? Unfortunately we don’t have a video tutorial planned right now for this pattern. Please let us know what is most confusing and we’d be happy to work with you to clarify! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
I purchased your line weight yarn this week and want to do this cowl. The needle size on the yarn states US 1-6. However, this pattern calls for US 11 needles. Is size 11 correct?
Loved your store and your service was excellent.
Hi CLH.
That’s so wonderful to hear!
The US 11 is correct. Twice Knitting, the stitch used for this cowl, is incredibly dense, so in order to accomplish a light airy fabric I went up several needle sizes!
Thanks for writing in and please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
As I can’t touch your Line Weight yarn in person, I’m just wondering if it’s truly soft enough to be worn next to the face, or is it at all itchy? The colors are really beautiful, and I can’t wait to make this, but I’m wondering if it’s soft enough! Thank you!
Hello Michelle!
We stand by the softness of our 100% merino wool yarns! They are often mistaken for cashmere at our NYC shop! I feel confident that even the most picky giftees would approve! Let us know what you think! -Alyson
Hi! Your site is lovely and I love the patterns you guys post. I’ve just learned to knit and am loving it, and in between christmas projects I’ve been searching for the perfect pattern to make for myself. This just might be it! I just have one question though: what is the purpose of the stitch marker? This seems like a pretty straightforward continuous stitch so I’m assuming it’s just there to mark the join for a consistent width. Could I use a safety pin type marker on the bottom to avoid shuffling a marker across every round?
Hello Brianne!
Yes! The marker is simply to remind you of where your round begins and ends. If you prefer to attach something to the body of the cowl while you’re working, feel free!
Thanks for your kind words about our site! Happy knitting! -Alyson
Hello,
I was in the store a few days ago and one of the women working said that this was knit using two strands at a time but in the video, the knitter seems to only be using one strand. Which method was used to knit the model – I love it and am hoping mine will look just like it!
Thank you very kindly for your help!
Kate
Hello Kate!
We do have some Line Weight cowls that use two strands at once, but this one just uses one! We’re so glad that you like our pattern! Happy stitching! -Alyson
Is the shawl in the photo the 7 inch or 14 inch wide? I’d like to know how much yarn I need to get that look. Thanks!
Hello Sarah!
The finished sample we made is 8 3/4 inches wide. Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
I am using Boboli Lace and would like to make the 60″ length. Can you help me figure out how to test my gauge for this yarn on #11 needles…I’m assuming it close to the line weight you used .
And if you could clarify your description of “dense”…my initial effort at this pattern it doesn’t seem so “dense” . Thanks for any help you can offer, kathy
Hi Kathleen.
If you want to make a small swatch, you could work it up flat, rather than in the round!
Cast on about 24 stitches (for a 4-inch wide swatch) and…
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
As for the density… The Line Weight (or Boboli Lace) on size US 11 needles won’t be dense. The stitch itself, if you don’t work it on larger needles that usually recommended for your yarn, it will result in a very dense fabric. If you worked this stitch with a fingering weight yarn on US 2s or US 3s, it would be dense. Or if you worked it in a worsted weight on US 8s it would be dense. But taking a really thin yarn and going up several needle sizes… that’s what creates this nice airy fabric!
I hope this information helps! Please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
Thanks so much for your response! I’ll do up the flat swatch and then decide if I’ll knit the cowl flat or be brave enough to cast on the 400+ stitches to work it in the round!!
Sounds like a plan! Happy knitting! -Alyson
I do hope you write up a scarf pattern for us. I want to knit if for my park ranger daughter in the purl soho wool twist….it will be to wear with her uniform. I am not an accomplished knitter so have to depend upon you…thank you, jo
Hi Josephine.
Thanks for writing in! And thanks for your request!
Here is the pattern for working this stitch flat, rather than in the round…
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
When worked densely, an interesting, not untidy edge forms. When worked loosely however, (like here, using fingering weight on nice big needles) the edges become quite a bit messier looking. This is one of the reasons, at this gauge, we decided to make a cowl rather than a wrap or scarf.
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks!
Laura
STUPID QUESTION! If yo k2tog and drop one stitch until only one stitch remains, how can you p2tog when only one stitch was on the needle to begin with? See? Stupid!
Thanks for your PATIENCE
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for writing in and no, your question is not stupid at all. There is no P2tog in this pattern because it is done in the round. You K2tog until you get to 1 stitch before the marker. When you arrive at this 1 stitch, you will slip it to the left hand needle, remove the marker and replace the slipped stitch back on the right hand needle. Next, K2tog, taking off only the first stitch. Place the marker back on the needle and continue the pattern. The marker will be moving to the left with every round. I hope this helps.
Best,
Adam
Hi! So excited to start this cowl. Love the site and store. One question regarding the long tail cast on, which I understand is the recommendation for this project. I read in the long tail cast-on tutorial that in order to start with a long enough tail, one could estimate one inch per cast-on stitch when calculating how much of a tail to start with. If that’s true, for this cowl I’d start with 38.6 feet of tail (464 inches). Is that right? Thanks so much!
Hello Shelly!
Unfortunately there are no 100% full proof methods of estimating how long your tail should be. I usually wrap the yarn around my needle 10 times and then use that as the estimation for the tail needed for 10 stitches. 1 inch per stitch is definitely a sure bet, but for such thin yarn in this pattern, I don’t expect you would need even quite as much as 232 inches, let alone 464. Let us know how it goes and best of luck with the cowl! -Alyson
If you make a slip knot with either two balls of yarn or two ends of the same ball, then do the Long-tail cast on with those instead, you have an endless supply of yarn for the cast on. Then you remove the initial slip knot. You have two tails to weave in, but it certainly beats the frustration of trying to figure out how long your tail should be!
Hello Mary!
This is a wonderful idea! I’ve never heard of this trick! Thank you so much for sharing! -Alyson
I was just curious as to why there is no video embedded where it says, watch a short video. Was it removed? I thought it was my browser, but I tried on Google Chrome and IE.
Hi Nathan.
Thanks for writing in!
The video is showing up for us on both Firefox and Chrome. I’m so sorry for this frustration. We are going to work on resolving the problem. In the meantime though… Here is a link to the video on YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3RoUZPyBDs
Thanks again for taking the time to write in and alert us to this issue!
Laura
I was wondering what cast on you used to cast on so many stitches? I usually use long tail.
Hello Barb,
Unless we specify otherwise, we usually use Long Tail cast on also! Make sure that you leave an extra long tail for this cast on! Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
I’m just about ready to start knitting after having finally correctly (hopefully) counting and recounting the 464 cast on stitches! I’m new to knitting in the round. The instructions say to “join for working in the round”—is this just a single knit stitch? Or do I start with the “K2 tog dropping only the first stitch…” to join the piece together into the round?
Thanks so much!
I think I’ve figured out the above question now. I’ve also had to cast this project on 4 times, so I can say that you will need a tail of 64 feet to cast on this project! I’m finding Addi Turbo 60″ needles unwieldy—even working at a table the project twists and then often falls off the needle when I try to slip over just one stitch. I’m used to working on bamboo or wood needles; think I’ll switch to 48″ bamboo. If this doesn’t work I’m giving up and going with straight needles!
Hello Michelle!
Great job for getting through that large number of cast on stitches! In order to join, it would be wise to simply begin with the first stitch of the actual pattern as your second idea suggests. “Joining” really just means making sure that all the stitches are oriented in the same way on the needles and that the work isn’t twisted around the cable.
Please don’t hesitate to write in if you need any more advice! Thanks! -Alyson
I love this pattern, but was wondering if you have developed a way or have instructions on how to fix a dropped stitch? The stitch is easy to knit, but not easy to fix!!
Thanks for your help,
Kathy
Hi Kathy.
Sadly I do not have any instructions for you on how to fix a dropped stitch. It is definitely a con in the pro/con list of this stitch pattern! Perhaps someone in our brilliant community will speak up with a solution they’ve found?! If I hear of or learn one, I’ll be sure to post about it.
Thanks for writing in Kathy. I’m sorry to not be of more assistance. Please do write back in if you have any questions. Hopefully next time I’ll have a tried and true solution for you!
Best,
Laura
Hi,
I am wondering how you would fix a mistake. I forgot to leave the second stitch on the needle, so the next k2tog looks a bit off.
Thanks
Hi Viviana.
Great question!
Taking stitches out in this stitch pattern isn’t all that different than taking them out in stockinette. You use the same basic technique. You can slip the tip of your left needle just below the last stitch on the right needle into the stitch you just worked, from front to back and lightly pull the working yarn to undo that last stitch. Just remember you’ll be picking up two stitches instead of one (imagine taking out a k2tog). You may want to go back a couple of stitches just to get the hang of un-knitting this fabric. It looks a bit messy at first, since one of the two stitches will be stretching between the left and right needles having already been worked once.
I hope this helps! Please don’t hesitate to write us back with any questions!
Laura
Hello! I love this pattern. I just started and am at about 5 inches. I have one small concern. I’m getting a lot of curling where I casted on I’m going to block when I finish. I’m not sure how to do the blocking to get the curl out. Can anyone help me out?
Hi Kelsey.
The fabric will always curl under a little bit, even after blocking, but once blocked a lot of the curl should come out of it.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
hello! ive finished this pattern. Ive followed the pattern and my stitches werent tight. After blocking it stayed flat until worn and is now practically a tube. Was it because of the yarn or a matter of the pattern. I will be undoing the scarf but am hoping to try it again and open to suggestions on how to get it not to curl.
Hi, Kelsey!
Thank you so much for writing in! I am so sorry that your cowl turned into a tube! It should have stayed flat with a bit of curling after blocking. Did you use the Line Weight yarn or something else? If you used another wool, that might have caused the excess curling. If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
Have just finished the pattern. Love it. But am confused on the bind off. Can you explain it easier for a beginner. Thanks
Hi Karla.
Thanks for writing in. I’d love to help you out with the bind off. Here’s what you do…
K2tog and slip only the first stitch off the left needle. Do the same thing once more, k2tog and slip only the first stitch off the left needle. Then, use the tip of the left needle to pick up the first stitch and pass it over the second stitch and off of the right needle. You’ve just bound off one stitch! Then you’re going to start the steps which you’ll repeat until two stitches remain… *k2tog and slip just the first stitch off the left needle, bind off one stitch like before by picking up and passing that first stitch on the right needle over the second stitch and off of the needle, then repeat from the * until there are only 2 stitches remaining (1 stitch on the left needle and 1 stitch on the right needle). Then, knit the last stitch and bind off one. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
I do hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
Thanks.
Laura
Hi,
I was wondering if there was a way for me to fix a dropped stitch in the previous row? Any help would be appreciated. I could send pic if that helps?
Thanks, Roya
Hello Roya!
As I’m sure you’ve noticed, with an intricate stitch pattern such as this, its incredibly hard to fix your mistakes after the fact. You’re welcome to send over a photo to Customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com. Best of luck! -Alyson
I saw another comment about this, but I dropped a stitch and need help or instructions for how to fix this. Has anyone found a solution?
Hello, Caryn!
Sadly, we do not at this time have any instructions for you on how to fix a dropped stitch. It is definitely a con in the pro/con list of this stitch pattern! Once we learn how to fix a dropped stitch for this pattern, we will definately let you know!
Again, I am sorry we can’t be of more help to you!
Best wishes and happy knitting,
Kumeko
Hi. I am about to start knitting this beautiful cowl and coming to terms to with the instructions. I am clear on most things… but I am uncertain about “block”. I usually follow instructions from Australian patterns some terms are unfamiliar.
Do you have any directions/explanations about “block” please.
Thank you
Julie
Hello Julie!
Here is our tutorial on blocking: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/11/13/blocking/
It basically means washing the garment in a gentle way to stretch it into place. Best of luck! Thanks! -Alyson
Just as an FYI, if you search Youtube for twice knitting instructions, there is a video that shows you how to cast on and bind off for this stitch. You start with 2 stitches when casting on, put the needle through both stitches and the knit stitch is then added onto the left needle. You continue to put the right handed needle through the last 2 stitches of the left needle to add on each additional stitch. You bind off in a similar way, knitting through 2 stitches at a time.
I’m having a hard time doing the stitch on the first row (just after casting on). I guess my cast on might be too tight (I’m a beginner) but I was wondering if I could knit the first round and then do the crosshatch stitch for the rest and will it look OK?
Hi, Susan!
Thank you so much for writing in! I think you are correct, your cast on may have been too tight! You could certainly knit the first round and then crosshatch the rest. I don’t think that knitting the first round will detract from the beauty of your cowl. You could even finish the cowl with a knit round so that both edges match. If you have further questions, please let us know!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
I’m excited to start this pattern! I am wondering what cast on you used?
Hi, Stacey!
Thank you so much for your question! Unless we specify otherwise, we usually use Long Tail cast on. Make sure that you leave an extra long tail for this cast on! Again, thanks for writing in!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
I generally use a long tail cast on but am not sure if it will look good with this pattern. So was just wondering if you have a preference.
Hi, Stacey!
Thank you for your question! Unless we specify otherwise, we usually use Long Tail cast on also! Just make sure that you leave an extra long tail for this cast on! Again, thank you for your question!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Managed to cast on all the stitches, but my yarn is getting bunched up when trying to make sure it’s not twisted before I join it. Any tips on this???
Thanks in advance!
Hello, Beth!
Thank you very much for writing in! Joining in the round with 400+ stitches is no easy feat, so I commend you for even trying! Another commenter had success in casting on the stitches then working a row flat before joining in the round. If you try this the first row will be a wrong side row so, use the same technique as described in the pattern, but purlwise, so p2tog rather than k2tog. If you have further questions, please let us know!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Hello and thank you for the lovely free pattern! I’m having some trouble. I’m on my third start. I cannot keep the needles from twisting with the 464 stitches as I’m joining in the round. Any suggestions? Also, this is my 3rd cast on, and I’m embarrassed to say I only had enough yarn in the tail to cast on 364 stitches, which is 100 short. I don’t know if I have the heart to rip out again and start over. Will it still work with 364 stitches? Thanks so much,
Jana
Hello, Jana!
Thank you so much for writing in! I am so sorry for the delayed response! Joining in the round with 400+ stitches is no easy feat, so I commend you for even trying! Another commenter had success in casting on the stitches then working a row flat before joining in the round. If you try this the first row will be a wrong side row so, use the same technique as described in the pattern, but purlwise, so p2tog rather than k2tog. Does that make sense?
This pattern will work with any number of cast on stitches, so your 364 stitches is totally okay!
If you have further questions please let us know! Best of luck!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
I’m almost done knitting this pattern with 2 skeins of yarn, and it’s only measuring 3.5 inch wide. Will blocking it cause it to stretch to the 7in width? I checked my gauge when I started and it seems ok. Help! Do I need to go get a third skein?
Thx,
Stacy
Hi, Stacy!
Thank you for writing in! When you checked your gauge did you make and block a gauge swatch? I ask because our gauge is of the stitch pattern blocked, so if you measured your gauge on an unblocked swatch you may not be getting the correct gauge. If you want your cowl wider I recommend getting a third skein because even with blocking you won’t get the 7-inch width. If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
Hi,
I am almost finished with my second skein, and my cowl is only measuring 3 inches across. Will blocking stretch it out to the 7 inches? I only bought 2 skeins per the pattern, and now I’m wondering what I did wrong. The gauge was right when I checked it in the beginning.
Thx,
Stacy
Hi Stacy,
Thanks for writing in and my apologies for the delayed response! That is perplexing indeed. Are you using Line Weight for the cowl? If not, what yarn are you using? Can you also let me know what the current circumference is?
Our version was blocked gently and did not grow significantly.
I look forward to hearing from you!
Cassy
This is a gorgeous scarf! I finished one during the holidays as part of a gift exchange. It’s simple and elegant; my friend was ecstatic.
My only weird issue was that when I was done blocking, my scarf measured 112″ in the round instead of 74″! And I certainly counted my stitches several times, so I know that I was following the pattern… (Had good needles, even(?) tension, everything seemed okay.)
In any case, it was wrappable around 3-4 times instead, and thus still fine, but is there any common reason why that would happen…? I’m making two other scarves of the same as gifts, and I’m wondering what could be the cause!
Hi, Stephanie!
Thank you very much for writing in! Sorry about the delayed response! Did you do a gauge swatch before starting the cowl? It is possible that your gauge may be different from ours even though you used the same yarn and needle size. I recommend doing a swatch next time and if you’re gauge is different from the gauge in the pattern you can adjust needle size.
If you did do a swatch the issue may have arisen during blocking. Did you fully submerge the cowl in water? If so, it may have stretched when you removed it from the water. I recommend following our hand blocking technique (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/11/13/blocking/) for this cowl.
Please let us know if you have further questions. Again, thank you for your comment!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Is the picture showing the 7 inch or the 14 inch cowl?
Hi Pamela,
The sample shown here is 8 3/4 inches wide.
Thanks for writing in.
Best,
Laura
Hi,
May you recommend how to block this cowl? Thank you for the beautiful pattern!
Hi, Sue!
Thank you so much for your kind words! We recommend blocking in this fashion: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2006/11/13/blocking/. If you have further questions, please let us know! Again, thank you for writing in!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Hi,
Do you have some advice on how to handle such a long cable?
It does feel overwhelming to deal with, at least at first.
Thank you,
Eva
Hello, Eva!
Thank you so much for writing in! Sorry for the delayed response! The cable does feel overwhelming at first, but it does become more manageable once you’re further along in the project. I recommend taking your time and being patient! Please keep us updated on your cowl!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
If you are like me, a tight knitter, you will have to ease up quite a bit to do this pattern!! I had to keep reminding myself to loosen my tension. Lovely pattern, thank you.
Hi there,
I noticed an earlier comment asked if this could be done on a 40″ cord (which comes with the bamboo addi clicks), and you replied it probably could. I’m just wondering if, many months later, you’ve had any more feedback on whether or not this works?
Many thanks,
Sam
Hi Sam,
We have not yet heard back from anyone who has knit the cowl on a 40 inch needle. The stitches would be squished up on the shorter cable but it is accomplish-able.
Best,
Cassy
Hello,
I’m Roberta from Rome, Italy. I’ve just finished two cowls with this pattern. I wanted to thank you for sharing this lovely pattern and stitch which I didn’t know. I used a different yarn in natural wool. The finished work looked a little curly at the edges and I was wondering if the type of yarn may affect the work. I wanted to know if you deliver orders in Italy, anyway, because your yarns seem wonderful. Thanks again!
Hi Roberta,
We are so glad that the Crosshatch Cowl inspired you! To mitigate curling on the edges, we recommend blocking the finished cowl. The fabric will always curl under a little bit, even after blocking, but once blocked a lot of the curl should come out of it.
I am also happy to let you know that we do ship internationally!
Best,
Cassy
Hello, I am making this scarf with your Line Weight yarn and I was wondering if it’s common for the knitting to get quite fuzzy. I don’t normally use wool since I’m allergic, but I’m making the scarf as a gift and I wanted to use the yarn you suggest. Thank you for your help!
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for writing in! The Line Weight does bloom when knit at this gauge and in this pattern. We think that it makes for quite a luxurious fabric.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I cast on the required number of stitches. When I joined in the round but it was very difficult to make sure no stitches were twisted.
Is there a way as I knit to tell ?? I am on my second round. I really do not want to have to rip out as this has been a tough task.
On the other hand ??? I like the patter and want it to look nice.
Hi, Gail!
Thank you for writing in! First, congrats on casting on ALL those stitches and joining in the round, that was no easy feat! It’s very difficult to tell if you have twisted your stitches when working with such a large number of stitches. With this high number of stitches you may not know until you’ve knit several rows. If you’ve twisted stitches your knitting will have a twist rather than being a flat and smooth. Try laying your work down on a table and seeing if all the stitches are facing the same way without a twist.
If you have further questions, please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi! I’m knitting this cowl with a fingering weight merino yarn quite similar to yours. After ten rows, the work is curling a lot so I was wondering to what extent this will disappear after blocking. I’ve read a few internet posts saying that curling comes back after blocking and I am quite concerned about it. Does this sticht behave like stockinette in this respect? Thank you.
Hi, Eva!
Thank you for writing in! This stitch does produce some curling at the edge, however much of that will be taken care of once you block your cowl. The fabric will curl under a little bit after blocking (similar to stockinette stitch). If you have further questions please let us know and please keep us updated on your cowl!
Best,
Kumeko
This is absolutely stunning! Love the colour and texture.
Do you sell any premade? Thanks, ACM
Hello Caroline,
Thank you so much for your comment. At this time we do not sell finished crosshatch cowls. We do have some beautiful finished items in the Purl Soho Goods section of our website. Thank you for your interest.
All the best,
Allison
What’s the difference between this and the herringbone stitch? It does the same thing but looks very different, and I’m not sure how that works. Is it just that this is worked in the round that makes it look different?
Hi Blackbird,
Good eye! The crosshatch and the herringbone stitch are similar. For the herringbone stitch, you change direction of the stitch every row. For the crosshatch stitch, the direction of the stitch is the same in each row. Both our Crosshatch Cowl and Herringbone Cowl are worked in the round, so the difference in look comes from the alternating direction of the stitches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love your crosshatch pattern. After reading some of the comments a few had difficulty untwisting the stitches. The best way to make sure the stitches are not twisted is use a life line as you cast on. Pulling gently at both ends of the lifeline until the thread is taunt all the stitches should line up. You may need an extra pair of hands to help you with this process. I tie a loop at one end of the lifeline for easy holding as the helper may get tired or use a teacup hook . I use top stitching thread for fine yarn or small satin cording for thicker yarn. Hope this is helpful.
Hi, Alex!
Thank you for writing in! I am certain that many of our readers will find this quite useful!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi!
I’m wanting to do this pattern except as a flat scarf not a cowl
You mentioned that when it’s done on bigger needles (like the ones you use) it’s messier, how can I get around this? Can i use a thicker yarn? or use smaller needles and simply cast on more stitches?
I’m super new to knitting so I’m trying to figure this all out haha
Thanks!
Hi Ally,
You have it absolutely correct! To make a neater edge when knitting flat, you can use thicker yarn OR smaller needles. I would recommend knitting a small swatch first to determine the type of fabric that will work best for you with the yarn and needles that you would like to use. To do so, cast on about 24 stitches and knit in pattern for a few inches. You can then see if the yarn and needle combination works for you of if you will need to change the needle size to make a more pleasing fabric.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I’d love to try this pattern — knitted flat, probably — in a worsted weight, since I have more of that yarn in my stash than line weight. If you recommend using US 11 needles for the line weight, what would you recommend for the worsted? Thanks so much!
Hello Kelly,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately we do not currently have the resources to customize patterns, but I can lead you in the right direction. I would suggest you try a swatch with the worsted on a US 15, 17 and 19. Depending on your personal tension, one of these sizes should work. Good luck!
Best,
Adam
Can I use worsted twist yarn?
Hi Roberta,
Thanks for writing in. You could use worsted weight yarn, but you would have to use much larger needles and a different cast on amount. Good luck with your knitting!
Best,
Adam
Hi,
I have just finished my cowl just to find out that it has an twist. I think it has to do with the untamable cable I used. Do you have an idea about how to untwist it?
Thank you,
Eva
Hi Eva,
Thanks for writing us. I’m sorry about the twist in your cowl. Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do to untwist it. This problem arises from twisting your stitches at the very beginning when joining in the round. However, both sides of this cowl look textural and I don’t think there is a “wrong side”, so I say you should rock it with the twist.
Best,
Adam
Would this work with your new linen quill yarn?
Hi Emily!
Yes, the Linen Quill would be great with this stitch. I think it would add a lot of texture and intrigue. I hope you tackle this project!
-Adam
Hello,
Thank you so much for this beautiful pattern! I am planning on knitting it in a DK weight yarn (Jade Sapphire 4 ply). What needle size would you suggest using? I am also planning on making the cowl a little shorter, do the number of stitches cast on have to be a multiple of anything, or will any even number of stitches be ok?
Thank you so much for your time and help!
Alexa
Hi Alexa,
Thank you for your kind words! This cowl will be stellar in Jade Sapphire 4 ply. What a great idea! You might be able to get away with knitting this on a US 11, but I’d also do a swatch on a US 13 just to be sure. The cowl is worked over an even number of stitches, so you can reduce the cast on amount as you see fit. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!
-Adam
I just got your yarn for the crosshatch cowl. I’m Alitalia confused on the purl row. If you only have 1 stitch left how can you drop one and continue like in row 1. I have vied the video many times.The other question I have is is there an easier was to make sure that these stitches are not twisted when joined? It’s a lot of stitches.
Thanks.
Lois Geisler
Hi Lois,
Thank you for your questions! Firstly, for the easy question, you can make sure you aren’t twisting your stitches by laying down your circular needle on a flat surface before joining. You’ll want to orient all the cast on bottom edge stitches toward the center so they are all facing each other. After doing this you’ll gently pick up your circular needle and join in the round.
As for the directions at the end of round, you will constantly be shifting your end of round marker over to the left as you knit. This is done by following the pattern until one stitch before the end of round marker. When you get to this stitch you will slip it to the right-hand needle and remove the marker. Next you will k2tog, dropping only the first stitch off the needle and then replace the marker. I hope this clears the directions up a bit. Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Hello,
Just wondering if there is a smaller version of this cowl? Thanks so much!
Cyndi
Hi Cyndi,
Thanks for writing in. There is no pattern on our site for a smaller version, but you can certainly make your own by casting on in multiples of two. Best of luck and let me know if you have any questions!
-Adam
I’m wondering the same thing — any suggestions for how many stitches to cast on if I am making this for a toddler and only need it to wrap around once? Thanks!
Hi, Nicole!
Thank you for writing in! This is a great question and it depends upon the size of the toddler. Most toddler’s scarves range from 36-inches to 40-inches so a cowl with either of those measurements as the circumference should work. I recommend getting out a measuring tape and seeing which length you prefer. Then you can calculate the number of cast on stitches based off the length you like. For example, if you decide that 40-inches is good, you would take 6.25 (this is from the cowl’s gauge 25 stitches = 4-inches, so 25 divided by 4 is 6.25) and multiply that by 40 (for 40-inches).
So, 6.25 x 40 = 250, so you’d cast on 250 stitches. If you decide to go with a different length be sure that your cast on number is a multiple of 2.
If you have further questions, please let us know. Again, thank you for writing in!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi, this oattern is lovely
Im quite new to blocking in knitting. How should i block a cowl since its in the round ( a scarf i would just pin it) but the snood thing is co fusing me.
Also do i just pin it after being very wet? Can you help me with the blocking process? Thank you so much
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for the question! I suggest you soak the cowl in warm water and soap until it’s saturated and then squeeze dry. You’ll probably want to roll it up in a towel and apply pressure to get the excess water out. After that you’ll lay flat to dry — no pins needed. Thanks!
-Adam
Am not getting the joining correct place marker & join. Is that what the slip the 1 last stitch purlwise remove marker take the one purl stitch onto the other needle and then replace the stitch marker?
Love the look of this scarf and am trying hard to get it right. Thanking u in advance. Pug Hugs to u!
Hi Deb,
Initially you’ll join in the round by placing your end of round marker but as you complete the stitch pattern you will need to shift the marker in order to K2tog. After your first round you should end up with one stitch before the marker. In order to K2tog you’ll need to remove the marker and replace it. Hope this makes sense! Please feel free to ask more questions if you are still having trouble!
-Adam
I’ve tried doing a swatch of this stitch (like in the video) for practice before attempting the 464 cast on. And, I’m running into trouble – I find it so difficult to knit this stitch and get my right needle under the two stitches to knit. Am I casting on and knitting too tight? Do I just need to power through? I want to attempt this project but I’m feeling nervous about my practice attempt failures. I think I read you recommend a long tail cast on, which is what I’ve been doing, but it is just so difficult to knit those two stitches without it getting so tight. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! This stitch can be a little difficult to get the hang of at first but after a few stitches, it should become easier to accomplish. It does sound like maybe you are casting on too tightly. I love the idea of practicing on a swatch! I think that you should power through on the swatch until you get the feel for the stitch. Easing up on your tension can be very helpful with the stitch given how dense it is!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Cast on over two needles instead of just one – that way first row will be looser to access and also lay flatter,
Has anyone figured out a way to fix a mistake for this pattern?
I am almost finished and dropped a couple stitches. 🙁
If there is an answer, I would love to know also!
Hi Rita,
Unfortunately the only answer to fixing this is to rip back and restring the stitches on the needle. Best of luck and let me know if you have any other questions.
-Adam
I actually had to rip out several rows, but the “loops” were super-simple to put back on the needle. And this from someone who is terrified of frogging!
If it’s immediate or not to far back, you can tink the stitches, the first stitch as usual, and the second as a “knit one below”. Check YouTube for a video tutorial.
Hi!
I am having some issues with joining in the round without twisting stitches because the needle is so long and the yarn is so thin. Do you know of any tips or tricks to avoid or correct this?
Thanks!
Hi Blair,
Thank you for writing in! First, congrats on casting on ALL those stitches and joining in the round, that was no easy feat! It’s very difficult to tell if you have twisted your stitches when working with such a large number of stitches. With this high number of stitches you may not know until you’ve knit several rows. If you’ve twisted stitches your knitting will have a twist rather than being a flat and smooth. Try laying your work down on a table and seeing if all the stitches are facing the same way without a twist.
Best,
Cassy
I cast on 234 stitches.
Cowl is a knockout!
Thank you for short tutorial.
Gabi.
Hi, can you show how to pick up a dropped stitch for this type of knit?
Hi Shyloh,
Thanks for the question but unfortunately we don’t have a tutorial on how to pick up a dropped stitch for this pattern. I have, however, fixed this stitch before and the only way is to rip back and restring the previous round on the needle. Let me know how it goes — I’d be happy to answer any questions you have.
Best,
Adam
Hi! Is the pattern the same when knitting on straight needles and not in the round? I want to make a scarf with this pattern.
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for writing in. The pattern in the round does not translate the same when knitted flat.
Best,
Adam
Adam,
Clarification/follow up – how did you guys knit the small swatch flat (shown in the video)? I would also like to swatch it before attempting the huge cast on – how can I do a small flat sample? Thanks!
Hello Cay,
Thank you for reaching out! You will need to knit your swatch in the round for this project.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello. I was thinking about knitting this scarf in 2ply cashmere and was wondering how it would look? I still want a light cowl but I just don’t have the patience to deal with line weight yarn and I admit I love the softness of cashmere 🙂
Hi Ally,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly use Jade Sapphire’s 2 ply Cashmere in place of our Line Weight. I think it will make a lovely cowl. I would be sure to knit a gauge swatch with the recommended needles and you may need to change the needle size to get the desired fabric!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Ally,
I just ordered the same yarn – cashmere 2 ply. I was wondering if you had to change needle size. Also for Castiglioni on did you cast on two needles so the casts were looser? It’s my first ‘real’ project after kitchen towels and even a per sweater.
Thanks for the tips.
Hi Cecilia,
Thanks for writing in! You may be able to use the same needles here but I would certainly recommend knitting a gauge swatch to be sure that you like the fabric using these needles. If you feel like the fabric is too loose, you can always for down a needle size. Additionally, some folks do cast on using a larger needle as the first row can be a bit challenging if you naturally a tight knitter. I’d recommend trying all of this out with some scrap yarn and needles to see how you like it!
Best,
Cassy
Thank you for the free pattern.
I am am definitely going to knit this Beauty.
This yarn is a fingerling weight and you use a size 11 needle? I would expect a lacy look with that needle size but your photos suggest a much denser fabric being created. Please confirm the needles size used in this pattern. Cast on of 464 stitches on a size 11 needle should work out to much more than 74 inches circumference.
Hi Jeannie,
Thanks for writing in! The stitch pattern that we used here is extremely dense and would be quite stiff on needles that would more traditionally be used with yarn of this size. In order to get a drapey and soft fabric, you will need to use US 11 needles. Be assured that the US 11s will make a lovely cowl!
Best,
Cassy
Wondering if the picture shown is the narrow or wide version?
thanks,
Linda
I just read comment and one stated that the shown cowl was 8 3/4 inches. My daughter likes the look of this…..how much yarn would I need? Hate to waste most of a skein though.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! For the 8 3/4 inch version, you will need roughly 1 1/4 skeins of Line Weight. If you would like to use the remainder of the skein, there should be a enough left to make lovely hat!
If you were to go slightly thinner, you could get a 7 inch wide cowl from 1 skein!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
If you only did a 7″ width and wanted to wrap it only twice, could you get away with 1 skein? Thank you. Or perhaps you could stick with the 8 3/4 and wrap it twice and still only use 1 skein?
Hi Maura,
Thanks for writing back! You certainly can make the cowl shorter around, allowing for more yarn to used for the height! We recommend between 55-60 inches for a double wrap cowl. Once you decide on a length, you can calculate the number of cast on stitches based off the length you like. For example, if you decide that 58-inches is good, you would take 6.25 (this is from the cowl’s gauge 25 stitches = 4-inches, so 25 divided by 4 is 6.25) and multiply that by 58 (for 58-inches).
So, 6.25 x 40 = 362.5, so you’d cast on 362 stitches. If you decide to go with a different length be sure that your cast on number is a multiple of 2!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in! The sample shown here is somewhere in between! We knit a cowl that is 8 3/4 inches wide and uses roughly 1 1/4 skeins of our Line Weight!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’ve been looking for a way to use some line weight remnants up, and love the look of this cowl. Any reason it wouldn’t work with stripes (probably larger ones — 2-4″ each on the wider size)? Tips or suggestions for making color changes?
Thanks!
Hi Amy,
Thanks for writing in! I think that this could work very well striped. Looking through the projects on Ravelry, I see that a few striped versions have been done. They tend to have wider stripes as you described and look quite nice! I also love the idea of using up your remaining Line Weight; such a great idea!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I love the pattern, but I am concerned about the edges rolling even after wet blocking. Any suggestions?
Hi Paulette,
Thanks for writing in! The edges of this cowl can tend to roll a little bit but we find that it is not too much and the effect is quite charming when worn. If you are having more rolling than you would like, you could do a single crochet border around the cast on and the cast off edge to give each edge a little more stability.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Size US11 ? Seems large needle for fingering weight yarn would make it more Lacey.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! It does seem large but this stitch pattern is extremely dense and the large needles allow for the fabric to be drapey and lovely!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Cool!
What a brilliant, simple method! Never thought of it before. Even after knitting for 46 years, I am astounded by how little I know & by the endless variations achievable by needle orientation and yarn placement.
Thanks!
I don’t understand the point of the stitch marker. Aren’t you just going around and around using the same stitch until it is the finished width? Do you do something different after the first round?
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! In order to prevent a spiral effect and give the join a nice, finished look, we slip the last stitch of each round purlwise, remove the marker, replace the slipped stitch onto left needle, K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, replace stitch marker. Then you continue on as before with the crosshatch stitch.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
This looks fantastic.
Does it roll the way stockingette stitch usually does?, or does the cross-hatch effect solve that problem?
Hi Jill,
Thanks for writing in! The crosshatch stitch does not roll in the same way that stockinette tends to. That said, the edges of this cowl can tend to roll a little bit but we find that it is not too much and the effect is quite charming when worn. If you are having more rolling than you would like, you could do a single crochet border around the cast on and the cast off edge to give each edge a little more stability.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’ve been a knitting instructor for a number of years and will often suggest the use of a ‘life line’ when a mistake is difficult or impossible to fix. It gives a sense of security knowing that the line will stop you at a place where everything before it was perfect. It is also easier to pick up stitches after ripping back if one uses a much smaller needle.
Another helpful tip when knitting in the round is to use cables with interchangeable tips and put a needle tip two or three sizes smaller than the pattern suggests on the left side. That makes sliding the stitches up toward the point much easier. The right needle determines the gauge so it works very nicely.
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for writing in! And thanks for sharing your tips! I am sure that others will appreciate the insight!
Best,
Cassy
Would Linen Quill work for this cowl? Thanks.
Hi Lee,
Thanks for writing in! Linen Quill will certainly work for this cowl! The yardage is a little less per skein for the Linen Quill so I would suggest using 2 skeins to get a good sized cowl!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Beautiful, imaginative pattern. Looking forward to using line weight yarn with this stitch. Thanks for this!
Can this pattern be done in a smalller needle?
Thanks. Kaybertieri
Hi there,
Yes, you can knit this on smaller needles but your yarn size will have to be thinner as well. This stitch is very dense when knit up, so in order to get a nice fabric, you need to have a rather large needle.
Thanks!
-Adam
Help please! I’ve been trying to complete a swatch and my knitting continues to produce ribs and doesn’t look like the picture as shown – which seems to be flat. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks.
Hi Mari,
Thanks for writing us! You might be knitting your swatch flat (turning the work) instead of in the round. Take a look at our Swatching for Circular Gauge tutorial. This will definitely help!
Adam
What is the best cast-on method for the Crosshatch Cowl?
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend doing a Long Tail cast on for this pattern.
-Marilla
Please help! I’ve dropped a stitch in the crosshatch and I can’t quite figure out how to pick it up properly!! Any advice for fixing this?!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately the only answer to fixing this is to rip back and restring the stitches on the needle.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello! Could you use the flax down for this project?
Thank you!
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! Flax Down is quite a bit thicker than the yarn we used here. While you can use, Flax Down, the pattern would require a fair amount of reworking. You could use Linen Quill for this pattern with no modifications (although you may need 2 skeins). Linen Quill has a similar fiber content to Flax Down but with a finer gauge and a tighter twist.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi Cyndi,
I love the look of this scarf. My question for you is would this pattern work with a Malou Light Baby Alpaca yarn? Also would I still use the same size needle as mentioned in the pattern. I already have the yarn and would like to use it for a infinity scarf.
Thanks Kelly
Hi Kelly,
Thanks for writing in! I am not familiar with the yarn that you are hoping to use but a look on Ravelry shows it to be an Aran weight yarn. The yarn that we used here is a light fingering weight. If you would like to use your yarn you certainly can. I would suggest using a US 19. To figure out a cast on number, you will need to knit a small gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know the number of stitches that you are getting per inch, you will multiply that by the number of inches that you would like the cowl to be and cast on the nearest even number!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Can you knit this not in the round?
Hello Brittini,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately this pattern does not translate into being knit flat.
Warmly,
Marilla
Hello,
I love this pattern and have been trying this on a patch. How exactly can I bind this off, however?
Thank you very much for your help.
Friederike
Hello Friederike,
The instructed bind off is as follows:
[K2tog and slip only the first stitch off the left needle] 2 times, pass the first stitch over (just like a normal bind off), *k2tog and slip the first stitch off the left needle, pass the first stitch over, repeat from * until 2 stitches remain (1 stitch on the left needle and 1 stitch on the right needle), knit the last stitch and pass the first stitch over. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
Happy knitting!
Carly
Hello there, this pattern is using fingering yarn. Needle us 11 would be 8mm. Its quite bug for the yarn.
Hi Linh,
Thanks for writing in! The stitch pattern that we used here is extremely dense and would be quite stiff on needles that would more traditionally be used with yarn of this size. In order to get a drapey and soft fabric, you will need to use US 11 needles. Be assured that the US 11s will make a lovely cowl!
Best,
Cassy
Silly question but my size 11 circular needles are too short for 434 stiches – could I make this using a size 10 or 12 needle and would I need to make any changes to the number of stitches? Or should I just buy a longer size 11?
Hi Amanda,
We are happy to help! I would suggest getting US 11 needles with a longer cord. US 10 needles may be too small to execute the stitch pattern and US 13 may create a lacier fabric than you would like.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
If I were to use a heavy fingering weight (~4p ply) to make this, would yo advise a larger needle size? Or would it be better not to try with a heavier yarn? Wondering if the density of the stitches could be an issue!
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for reaching out! You could certainly go up in needle size. This will just make the cowl larger. I would suggest knitting up a gauge swatch before jumping in to make sure you are happy with the texture.
I hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hello. Thank you for the crosshatch cowl pattern, it’s beautiful. I followed the directions for the bind off. However it was not as stretchy at the cast on row. Any tips on a stretchier bind off?
Hello Nikki,
Thank you for writing us! The key to getting a stretchier bind off is a loose bind off. The looser your bind off is the stretchier it will be.
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Marilla
I knitted the wide version of this pattern using the recommended Line Weight in Sea Salt as a wrap for my wedding. This is so worth the time investment especially if you can tough it out through casting on 464 stitches! It really turned out beautifully (with a few mistakes; it is handmade after all) and I received many compliments on the color choice (my dress was white top, grey bottom). I don’t think it would have turned out quite the same if I used different yarn, so I am grateful I followed the recommendation. Thanks for publishing this pattern because it became one of my favorite components of my wedding day outfit 🙂
Hi Mandy,
What a lovely story to share! We are so glad that this piece worked out so well for your special day!
Best,
Cassy
I love this pattern. The problem is I don’t know what to do when I drop a stitch by accident or make a mistake. Usually if I’m doing stockinette or garter or something similar, when I accidentally drop a stitch (or several), I know how to pick it back up. With this pattern, I’m totally lost. I had cast on 320 stitches, knit about 3.5″, and had to totally take it apart and start over because I couldn’t figure out how to replace the missing stitch. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
HI Jessica,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately the only answer to fixing this is to rip back and restring the stitches on the needle.
We did have a lovely knitter recommend using life lines. This is a process by which you string some spare yarn through all of the stitches on your needle every few rows (You will determine how often based on your preference. I would say every 5 to 10 rounds). YOu can then pull the spare yarn out once you have inserted the next life line. This allows you to pull out your needles, rip back to the life line and place all the stitches on the needle easily so that you can fix mistakes without too much worry!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi Cassy,
Is there an Alpaca I could use, and if so what size needle should I try for this Crosshatch Cowl?
Thank you,
Lowell
Hi Lowell,
Thanks for reaching out! The closest 100% alpaca yarn that we have is Blue Sky Royal Alpaca. This yarn is a bit thicker than our Line Weight so I would suggest going up to a US 13 and cast on fewer stitches. I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch to give you an idea of how many fewer stitches to cast on.
If you would like to use an alpaca blend, our Linen Quill would be lovely and you will need to make no changes!
Best,
Cassy
Thank you so much Cassy for your help and can’t wait to try! I was thinking you went away on vacation – because I forgot to refresh this page lol!
Many thanks,
Lowell
Thank you for such a gorgeous pattern and a wonderfully creative and practical use for a single skein a fingerling yarn! My issue is with the first row. I believe I understand the stitch as it’s pretty straightforward and your video is very helpful. No matter how loose I try to cast on, I have even tried doing so with one size larger of needles. I can’t seem to finish the first row. It is too tight! I seem to be only able to do the first row with the tips of my needles and after about 50 stitches I can’t get any farther and have to rip everything out. Also, how many stitches would you recommend if I were to follow the pattern exactly but only wrap around the cowel twice instead of three times? I am using the Purl Soho line weight yarn. I so want to finish this project, looking for any advice, please help! Thanks again , Lilo
Hi Lilo,
Thanks for writing in! The first row can be a challenge! I find that it is best to try to knit very loosely on that first row. Casting on with a larger needle certainly helps and then knit more loosely than you normally do. Additionally, if you would like to cast on for a double wrap, I would suggest between 350-364 stitches. This will give you a 54-58 inch circumference!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thanks for the response, I’ll keep trying! Also the smaller size may be more manageable 🙂
This is my first ‘real’ project. I started knitting it and after four rows learned I was all twisted. I restarted and followed the Dee’s No-Twist Circular Cast-On suggestion which uses a stretchy ribbon as a guide to make sure your cast ons aren’t twisted. I am now 10 rows into the project and it’s looking nice. I am using the 2 ply cashmere yarn- it looks great…. so far;)
This is my first knit-in-circle project! And I squeezed in the time to cast on for the 464 stitches at one night, the next night for the entire first row… then realized there was this one twist that ruined the whole thing….. I was so frustrated that I haven’t picked it up again. Seeing your post really makes me a little bit more confident! I will look into the no-twist method you mentioned! Any advice on joining the round? Thank you!
Hello Hazel,
Thank you for reaching out- I’m happy to hear that you are feeling hopeful after this frustrating experience! I would say not getting a twist is the most important part of joining in the round. The actual act of knitting your first stitch, to join, is pretty straight forward. Sounds like you are on the right track!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi Marilla,
I’d love to give this another try! How would you recommend me to cast on? Originally I used the correct size circular needle but I think I cast on too tight, so I used both needle while casting on. the result was two needles together with this extremely long cast on tube around them and the cord till almost the end of it. so it was quite tricky to pull one of the needle off and through the super long cast-on before I began 1st round. My addi short lace set only have up to US11, which is the size required for it.
Hello Hazel,
I’m happy to hear you are jumping back in! If you are having issues with your cast on being to tight, you are correct in thinking that a going up in needle size for the cast on is a logical solution, though I would go up to a US13 or US 15 at most. I would be concerned that doubling the needles will not only make the cast on extra challenging ( I’m impressed with your casting on skills!), but also cause issues due the cast on being to loose. Sense you don’t have a larger needle I would recommend trying it with your US11 and being consciously loose with your cast on. What cast on method are you using?
Let me know how it goes and if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Since I don’t currently own anything larger than US 11, I think I will try two US 7(equal to 1 US 13) or two US 8 (equal to 1 US 15, I believe) and see how it turns out… I used long tail cast on last time, is there any method you recommend? I think I need to do enough research to cast on the full amount of stitches again haha
Hello Hazel,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m very impressed with your ability to use 2 needles at once- I’m not sure I would have the coordination to accomplish this- You are clearly a very innovative person! I would stick with a long tail cast on and I would definitely use stitch markers to help you keep count of your stitches (this is a life saver in my experience).
Good luck and let us know how it goes!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi, just wondering since line weight is so thin, and you knit the picture on size 11’s – it looks pretty dense to me. You mention the light coming through but I am not pairing the yarn weight with 11’s, seems way to hole-y? Am I missing something? I don’t see that the yarn was doubled….thanks for your reply.
Oops. I meant pairing the yarn with 11’s seems too hole-y.
Hi Jody!
Thanks for writing in! The crosshatch cowl is knit with a stitch technique similar to the herringbone stitch using only a single strand of fingering weight yarn. It creates a tightly woven looking fabric when knit on the larger needles.
I hope this helps!
Carly
Instead of a cowl, I’d like to make a crosshatch wrap. How would I adjust this pattern to be worked on straight needles (accounting for the right/wrong side) instead of circular ones? Thanks so much for the help!
Hi Rea,
Thank you for you interest in this lovely pattern!
Yes! This stitch can be worked flat…
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Can you recommend how many stitches to cast on if knitting this on straight needles compared to circular? Also, what multiples should be used to cast on if working flat?
Thank you!
Hello Erin,
Thank you for reaching out! You can cast on any multiple of two for this pattern. The gauge for this pattern is 25 stitches per 4 inches in stitch pattern (blocked). This means that if you wanted a 20″ width you would cast on 124.
One thing to note is that when worked densely, an interesting, not untidy edge forms. When worked loosely however, (like here, using fingering weight on nice big needles) the edges become quite a bit messier looking. This is one of the reasons, at this gauge, we decided to make a cowl rather than a wrap or scarf.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi – I love this pattern but I’m having trouble keeping the stitches from twisting when I join the ends. Is there a trick? Thanks!
Hi Leslie,
Great question! It can be so frustrating to find a twist in a circular piece after you have already worked a few inches! I find it helpful to knit the first round before joining since it will be easier to see a twist around the needle when you have something a bit more substantial than just the cast on, and you can close up any gap when weaving in the tail of the cast on. You may also have an easier time if you use a longer circular needle – we recommend a 60″ needle so that you can spread the stitches out more which will make it easier to spot a twist.
I also like to do one last check after I have completed the first round after joining, because if there is a twist, you can still untwist it at this point when there is only a strand or two of yarn joining the cowl together without creating a too-obvious lump or bunchy area!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Julianna – Thank you so much for the tips! I really appreciate it and can’t wait to get going 🙂
How much yarn did you use for your long tail cast on? I’ve never used a long tail CO for so many stitches before :/
Hi Nicole,
Great question! I find that when using the long tail cast on a good rule of thumb is to use three times the width of your project. If you use this method you should have enough! For this project the finished circumference is 74 inches so you will want to start with roughly 222 inches or 18.5 feet. I always add just a little to make sure I have enough, so perhaps 19 feet!
Best,
Cassy
Is there a comparable silk, linen or cotton (or combination of these fibers) yarn that could be used for this pattern? Something other than wool?
Thanks
Hi Joyce,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend using our Cattail Silk – it is the correct weight for the pattern and has a lovely texture!
Best,
Julianna
Hi Purl Bee
I’m almost finish, but unfortunately i’dont understand the binding off. I knit 2 together and leave the first drop? Or slip it to the right needle?
Thanks for your answer
Patrizia
Hi Patrizia,
Thanks for writing in! You will essentially be continuing the same stitch pattern you used in the cowl while binding off. After knitting two together you will slip the first stitch off the needle, but will have one stitch on the right hand needle from working the k2tog. You will then repeat this step so you have two stitches on the right hand needle, and can bind one off.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,
How can I do the test swatch if the stitch cannot be done flat? On the video tutorial, the swatch is obviously flat, but it is showing only one side of the pattern.
Thank you
Hello Louise,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct this stitch can be worked flat by adjusting the pattern.
Right Side: *K2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, k1.
Wrong Side: *P2tog dropping only the first stitch off the left needle, repeat from * until one stitch remains, p1.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I think I may have dropped a stitch and recounting has given me three different stitch counts! In the event that I did drop a stitch how badly, if at all, will this tweak the pattern?
Hello Jennifer,
Thank you for reaching out- we have certainly all been there! This will affect your stitch quiet drastically, because this stitch pattern requires an even number of stitches. When I have to re-count this many stitches I will place a stitch marker every 25 stitches so that if I loose count all is not lost.
I hope this helps and good luck!
-Marilla
I attempted the cross hatch cowl with the line weight on large needles. It just wasn’t enjoyable. Can you possibly help me with yardage and cast on for using a sport or dk weight yard on size 7 or 9 needle?
Hi Joanne,
Thanks for reaching out! To knit this cowl in a thicker yarn, I would suggest knitting a gauge swatch in pattern, using a US 13 for sport weight yarn or US 15 for DK. You can then multiply your stitches per inch by 74 inches and round to the nearest even number to determine how many stitches to cast on. It’s hard to say for sure how much yardage you will need when changing the gauge of a pattern, but I would guess that you will need about 550 yards for sport weight or 500 yards for DK.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am having trouble printing copy of the crosshatch cowl pattern. May I get help on that?
Hi Sylvia,
Thanks for writing in! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
If you are still having any difficulties printing the pattern, please reach out to us at [email protected]!
Best,
Julianna
I’ve finished and am having difficulty understanding how to bind off. Can you please provide more clarity?
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! For the bind off you will start by [K2tog and slip only the first stitch off the left needle] 2 times. You will then pass the first stitch over (just like you would in a normal bind off), you will then continue the *k2tog and slip the first stitch off the left needle, pass the first stitch over, and repeat this from the * until 2 stitches remain (1 stitch on the left needle and 1 stitch on the right needle), knit the last stitch and pass the first stitch over. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitch.
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
Please help. I’m done and cannot figure how to bind off ! U tube would be appreciated!
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out again! Unfortunately we don’t currently have the resources to create a tutorial of this bind off. It may seem difficult but it is actually pretty straight forward. You will essentially be continuing the same stitch pattern you used in the cowl while binding off. After knitting two together you will slip the first stitch off the needle, but will have one stitch on the right hand needle from working the k2tog. You will then repeat this step so you have two stitches on the right hand needle, and can bind one off.
I hope that clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
bonsoir, comment faire ce point sur une aiguille normale avec un rang endroit et un rang envers ?
merci
Hi Fabienne,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely knit this pattern flat instead of in the round! Just take a look at our Twice Knitting tutorial, and follow the instructions titled TWICE KNIT STOCKINETTE STITCH WORKED FLAT. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
What is the best way to add a roll of yarn?
Hi Johannah!
Thank you for writing in! We have a tutorial for this, called Adding a Ball of Yarn, that includes all the steps necessary for switching from one skein to the next. It’s easier than you might think!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Will the edges of this cowl roll? Is there a way to prevent rolled edges?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! The edges of this cowl can tend to roll a little bit, but we find that it is not too much, and the effect is quite charming when worn. If you are having more rolling than you would like, you could do a single crochet border around the cast-on and the bind-off edge to give each edge a little more stability. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Good afternoon.
I just finished casting on 264 stitches for this beautiful cowl. Can I knit a start up row before beginning the pattern? When finished can I knit a row then bind off knit wise?
Thank you
Hi Susan,
Yes, you can absolutely do that! I think having an extra round as a buffer will definitely make the next round easier to manage.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for your quick response. Oh, I did cast on 464 stitches… the most I’ve ever done! Hopefully I won’t need to start over!
Could I substitute sweetgrass for this cowl?
Thank you for a beautiful and interesting pattern!
Hi Brigitte,
Yes, Sweetgrass would be a perfect choice for this pattern! Like Line Weight, it’s also a fingering weight yarn, so you’ll be able to match the gauge of the pattern. As always though, we recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge!
All the best,
Lili
Can I knit this pattern in Cashmere Merino Bloom? It’s my favorite yarn. If so how many skeins would I need? Thank you!
Hi Letha,
You can definitely alter the pattern to use much larger needles. I’d recommend knitting a gauge swatch to check your tension with a size US 15 needle. After you have created your gauge swatch you can weigh it in grams and divide the square footage (in inches) of your swatch by the total number of grams. This will give you your grams per square inch which you can then use to calculate the yardage for your cowl.
All the best,
Gavriella