Brioche Vest
Rooted in my days of wearing school uniforms, my longtime adoration of vests is based in their practicality. Well, at least that was the case before this one… for a vest in brioche stitch is no longer just for logistical layering.
Brioche stitch has as decadent a feel as its namesake has flavor. Deep ridges and valleys give it a rich textural appeal, while wide, airy ribbing provides an unexpected loftiness. Plus, it begs for shaping details; even minimal decreases (like I did here) add a beautiful curve up and around an otherwise linear fabric.
Knit in Purl Soho’s sumptuous Worsted Twist, these soft ribs will hug your core toasty warm all fall, winter and into spring. There will be few times you won’t find an excuse to wear your Brioche Vest!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Even with its multi-seasonal layer-ability, I think the luxurious feel of cuddling into this generously turtlenecked vest trumps issues of practicality?!? Maybe I’m wrong? Maybe I should keep testing it out to be sure… -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBriocheVest, and #PurlSohoWorstedTwist. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist, 100% merino yarn. Each skein is 164 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 635 (715, 805, 905, 985) yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- US 6 (4 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 8 (5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- 6 removable stitch markers
- 2 stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
Gauge
15 stitches and 20 rows = 4 inches in Brioche Stitch (see Pattern Notes), on largest needle
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
Women’s X-Small (Small, Medium, Large, X-Large)
- Finished Chest Circumference: 29½ (33½ , 38, 42, 46½ ) inches
- Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 21¾ (22¼, 22¾, 23¼, 23¼) inches
- Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 13 inches (with instructions to lengthen)
Notes
Abbreviations
bk2tog [brioche knit 2 together]: knit next knit stitch together with its paired yarnover.
bk3tog [right leaning brioche decrease]: to make a right leaning decrease in brioche stitch, work up to the knit column before the marked knit column you’d like to slant; it will have a yarnover paired with it. K2tog (the next knit stitch with its paired yarnover, and the following purl stitch), slip the resulting stitch back to the left needle, pass the following stitch (a knit stitch and its paired yarnover) over the first stitch on the left needle and off the left needle, move the resulting stitch back to the right needle. (2 stitches decreased) Click here for a photo tutorial.
bp2tog: purl next purl stitch together with its paired yarnover.
bsk2p [left leaning brioche decrease]: to make a left leaning decrease in brioche stitch, work up to the marked knit column that you’d like to slant; it will have a yarnover paired with it. Slip this stitch and its yarnover together knitwise, k2tog (a purl stitch followed by a knit stitch and its paired yarnover), pass the slipped stitch and its yarnover together over and off the right needle. (2 stitches decreased) Click here for a photo tutorial.
yon: bring yarn over right needle.
YOS [yarn over slip]: bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, bring yarn over right needle.
wyib: with yarn in back.
wyif: with yarn in front.
Brioche Stitch
This Brioche Stitch pattern includes selvedge stitches. Click here for a photo tutorial explaining the basic principals of Brioche Stitch. Also, please see the Pattern Notes section (below) for more details!
(odd number of stitches)
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, p1, yon, k1, *YOS, k1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Row 1: Slip 1 wyib, k1, *YOS, bk2tog, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2: Slip 1 wyif, p1, yon, k2tog, *YOS, bk2tog, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for Brioche Stitch.
Additional Notes
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise unless indicated otherwise.
When counting stitches in Brioche Stitch, yarnovers are not included in the stitch count; they are paired with a knit or purl stitch (only when working in the round), and the pair of knit/yarnover or purl/yarnover are counted as a single stitch. The stitch pattern will produce a very pronounced rib; count only the purl and knit columns when counting stitches.
When working decreases, you will always be decreasing two stitches at a time in order to preserve the rib pattern.
Pattern
Front
Note: Slip all slipped stitches purlwise unless indicated otherwise.
Cast 55 (63, 71, 79, 87) stitches on to the smallest needle. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Begin Brioche Stitch; work even until piece measures 1 inch from the cast-on edge.
Change to the middle size needle; work even until piece measures 4 inches from the cast-on edge.
Change to the largest size needle; work even until piece measures 13 inches from the cast-on edge, or to desired length from cast-on edge to underarm.
Place removable stitch marker on 6th st in from each edge; this will be a knit column. Do not move these markers up as you go; leave them in place to mark the beginning of the armholes.
Shape Armholes
Decrease Row (right side): Work in established pattern to marked stitch and its paired yarnover, bsk2p, continue in established pattern to 2 stitches (a knit stitch and its paired yarnover, and the following purl stitch) before next marked stitch and its yarnover, bk3tog, work to end of row in established pattern. (4 stitches decreased)
Next Row: Work even.
Repeat previous two rows two (three, four, five, six) more times. [43 (47, 51, 55, 59) stitches remain]
Work even until piece measures 6½ (7, 7½, 8, 8) inches from marked stitch, ending with a wrong side row.
Dividing Front Left and Front Right
Next Row (right side): Working in established pattern, work 13 (15, 17, 17, 19) stitches (ending with a YOS) and place on stitch holder or waste yarn for Front Left (including the last yarnover from the YOS), work 17 (17, 17, 21, 21) stitches and place on a separate holder for Collar, work to end. [13 (15, 17, 17, 19) stitches remain on needle for Front Right]
Front Right
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, p1, yon, bk2tog, *YOS, bk2tog, repeat from * to end.
Next Row (decrease row): Place removable stitch marker on 8th (10, 12, 12, 14th) stitch from left edge; this will be a knit column. [Bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, bk2tog] twice, bring yarn forward, slip 1, bsk2p, work to end. (2 stitches decreased)
Repeat previous 2 rows two more times. [7 (9, 11, 11, 13) stitches remain]
Front Right Shoulder
Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, *p1, bk2tog, repeat from * to end.
Next Row: *P1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Next Row (decrease row): Bind off 2 (3, 4, 4, 4) stitches in pattern, work to end of row. [5 (6, 7, 7, 9) stitches remain]
Next Row: Work even.
Repeat previous 2 rows once. [3 (3, 3, 3, 5) stitches remain]
Next Row (decrease row): Bind off remaining stitches in pattern. Cut yarn, leaving 10-inch tail for sewing shoulders together later.
Front Left
With wrong side facing, join yarn to work 13 (15, 17, 17, 19) Front Left stitches.
Next Row (wrong side): K2tog, *YOS, bk2tog, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
Next Row (decrease row): Place removable stitch marker on 8th (10, 12, 12, 14th) stitch from right edge; this will be a knit column. Work to 2 stitches before marked stitch and its yarnover, bk3tog, *YOS, bk2tog, repeat from * to last stitch, YOS. (2 stitches decreased)
Repeat previous 2 rows two more times. [7 (9, 11, 11, 13 stitches remain]
Front Left Shoulder
Next Row (wrong side): *Bk2tog, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
Next Row (decrease row): Bind off 2 (3, 4, 4, 4) stitches in pattern, work to end of row. [5 (6, 7, 7, 9) stitches remain]
Next Row: Work even.
Repeat previous 2 rows once. [3 (3, 3, 3, 5) stitches remain]
Next Row (decrease row): Bind off remaining stitches in pattern. Cut yarn, leaving 10-inch tail for sewing shoulders together later.
Back
Follow pattern for FRONT through Shape Armholes section. [43 (47, 51, 55, 59) stitches remain]
Work even in established pattern until piece measures 8 (8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2, 9 1/2) inches from marked stitch, ending with a wrong side row.
Back Shoulders
Next Row (right side): Work in established pattern to last 7 (9, 11, 11, 13) stitches, *p1, bk2tog, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Next Row (decrease row): Bind off 2 (3, 4, 4, 4) stitches in pattern, work in established patterns to last 7 (9, 11, 11, 13) stitches, *bk2tog, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, p1. [41 (44, 47, 51, 55) stitches remain]
Next Row (decrease row): Bind off 2 (3, 4, 4, 4) stitches in pattern, work to end. [39 (41, 43, 47, 51) stitches remain]
Repeat previous row twice. [35 (35, 35, 39, 43) stitches remain]
Next Row (decrease row): Bind off 3 (3, 3, 3, 5) stitches in pattern, work to end. [32 (32, 32, 36, 38) stitches remain]
Repeat previous row once. [29 (29, 29, 33, 33) stitches remain]
Do not cut yarn; keep ball attached and set aside.
Shoulders
Sew together the shoulders. I used a whip-stitch technique going under each V of the bind-off edges with right sides facing one another.
Collar
With right side facing, you will now pick up stitches along the Front Left Neckline, work across the Front stitches on hold, pick up stitches along the Front Right Neckline, then work across the Back stitches, and place marker and join for working in the round. Here is how…
With largest needle, pick up 9 stitches along Front Left neckline in the following fashion: *pick up 1 stitch, bring yarn to front, yon and pick up 1 stitch, repeat from * four times, pick up 1 stitch. Now work across the 17 (17, 17, 21, 21) Front Center stitches on hold in the following fashion: *slip 1 purlwise wyif, yon to front again, bp2tog, repeat from * to last stitch on hold, slip 1 purlwise wyif, yon to back. Pick up 9 stitches along Front Left neckline in the following fashion: *pick up 1 stitch, bring yarn to front, yon and pick up 1 stitch, repeat from * four times, pick up 1 stitch. Now work across the 29 (29, 29, 33, 33) Back stitches in the following fashion: *slip 1 purlwise wyif, yon to front again, bp2tog, repeat from * to last stitch on hold, slip 1 purlwise wyif, yon. [64 (64, 64, 72, 72) stitches]
Place marker and join for working in the round.
Round 1: *YOS, Bk2tog, repeat from * to end.
Round 2: *BP2tog, slip 1 wyif, yon to front again, repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until Collar measures 5 1/4 inches, or desired height.
Next Round: *Slip 1 wyif, k2tog, repeat from * to end.
Bind off loosely in rib pattern.
Finish
Side Seams
With a threaded tapestry needle, beginning at the height of the marked armhole stitch, and working towards the cast-on edge, use mattress stitch to sew together the sides. This vest was sewn together for 7 inches, leaving a 6-inch split seam.
Armhole Edging
With right side facing, using larger circular needle, beginning at center underarm, and picking up loosely, pick up a stitch from each edge “v” around entire armhole edge, binding off stitches as you go.
Last but not Least
Remove removable stitch markers, sew in your ends and block gently as desired and you are finished!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Oh what I wouldn't give for an alternate non-wool yarn suggestion for this pattern, for it is positively perfect!
Signed,
Ms. Itchy Scratchy
Everything rayon, silk combination , or Merino wool what is not itchy. There are lots of substitutes out there.
Your patterns are so gorgeous – we are so lucky you give them away to us for free!
Ah, if I could only knit… Ah, if I wasn't allergic to wool…
This looks great. I love the way you worked in the decreases. Just beautiful.
Would it be crazy to try to add sleeves? I suppose I could just knit them down from the shoulders… I would need to think about how to work the shaping and decreases to go with the body.
I want one of these; if only there were enough hours in the day for me to knit a few, I would also make some for my daughters. It looks great sleeveless, I guess over a plain long sleeved T-shirt for winter.
Hi Nicole C,
Thank you so much for the kind words. A good non-wool alternative would be Blue Sky's Worsted Cotton.
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/721-Blue-Sky-Worsted-Cotton
Thanks.
Laura
Hi Leslie,
I had initially thought about trying to design this piece so that I could later go in and add sleeves. It definitely isn't impossible.
With the shaping at the underarm this sweater would be considered a set-in sleeve. So knitting sleeves from the wrist up would be best. You would need to account for the 1 3/4 (2, 2 1/2, 3 1/8, 3 3/4) inches that the piece comes in at both underarms… In other words, if you knit sleeves from the wrist up, in the round, I would work the last 1 3/4 (2, 2 1/2, 3 1/8, 3 3/4) inches flat so that you could sew it into the armhole shaping. A bit of a puzzle, but totally do-able.
As for the decreases, there is a great 4-stitch decrease method here, the abbreviations are a bit different than mine, but if you are comfortable with Brioche Stitch, it will be a breeze: http://briochestitch.com/brioche/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22&Itemid=16
Let us know how it goes!!!
Laura
This is so incredibly beautiful!! So stylish, elegant and practical at the same time, I can't wait to cast on!!
Beautiful, I have wanted something like this -unknowingly-, I also really like the high slits to the sides. I think I would make the back a bit longer, you know to cover my behind for winter. I once started a hat for my baby in brioche it ended up becoming my hat, it became much much bigger because it is such a loose stitch. I would have to figure out how to do it because knitting patterns in english are a bit difficult to understand for me. Have a wonderful weekend!
This vest is so gorgeous! Now I have to go learn brioche knitting. 🙂
How much ease would you recommend for wearing this? I've never used brioche stitch before, I can't really visualize the fit.
Fabulous pattern that can be sporty or elegant.
Hi Laura,
Lovely! How much negative ease us there on the vest on the dress form?
Jessie
I work in a wonderful yarn shop, but your patterns have me looking at the Purl Soho website, ordering yarns we don't carry so that I can attempt your beautiful designs. Your patterns are truly stunning, and your photos which show the "work in progress" are invaluable. This vest would be perfect here in the Deep South as a fall top, as we often have cool mornings that become warm days later on. I'd wear it under a jacket which could be removed later. Thank you for these luscious, free patterns.
If you don't have a real allergy to wool, if you just find it itchy, you should try Purl Soho's worsted twist. I got some thinking, it can't be as good as they say and I'll send it back if it's not. OMG, is it SO much BETTER than they say. I'm getting a back ache from knitting so much every day because I can't bear to stop feeling it go through my fingers. It's absolutely amazingly soft and non-itchy, without being wimpy and overly drapey and having no body. When I win the lottery, I'm never knitting with anything else ever again.
Hello Jessie + Chleite.
Thanks for writing in. Great question. Our mannequin has a 34 inch bust, she is wearing a Small measuring at 33 1/2 inches, so there is a negative 1/2 inch ease. The vest can be worn fitted, but can also be warn as an over-garment, going up a size with the ability to layer it over other pieces.
Thanks again for asking.
Laura
Thank you for this pattern!!!
Hi, this is such a stunning pattern. Thank you so much for giving it away. Is it very necessary to use circular needles? I live in South Africa and getting specific lengths and needle sizes can be tricky but I have most sizes of straight needles. Thanks again, Claire
Hi Claire,
For the majority of the pattern, straight needles would work just fine. The neck is worked in the round, but long double pointed needles could be substituted here.
Thank you for your kind words. Wonderful to hear you like it!
Laura
Thank you so much for getting back to me. I will stick with the straight ones and have found a place to get the one for the neck.
Hi again,
just one more question (I hope).
I can see that the rib created by the brioche stitch will be quite stretchy. Should one choose a size which is an exact fit or slightly smaller?
Many thanks
Hi Clair.
Great question. The piece can definitely be worn on the loose side as an over-garment, but it is show in the pictures here quite fitted. Our mannequin has a 34 inch bust, on her is the Small with a bust circumference of 33 1/2 inches, so there is a negative 1/2 inch ease. I would not go much more than a 1/2 in negative ease though, or the ribs start separating and the top becomes rather stretched out looking / unflattering.
If one of the sizes is your bust size exactly, I would go with that one! Hope this helps.
Laura
I'm having a trouble knitting the collar on this sweater. When you state "right side facing" does that mean the right side if facing out? or the right sides are facing each other?
Also, if we are knitting in the round, why do you need to alternate the BK2TOG and the BP2TOG rows? Couldn't you just keep knitting with the BK2TOG pattern since you are knitting in the round? I'm I being totally dense here? I have knit the sweater fine up until this point in the pattern.
Help, please!
Thanks,
Jennie
Hi Jennie.
"Right side facing" means with the Right Side facing you.
As for the knitting in the round portion…
One round you work the knit ridges and the next round you work the purl ridges, slipping the knit ridges.
It is the same as you were doing when you were working flat…
You worked across one side, working the knit ridges and slipping the purl ridges, then you turned your fabric over and worked the knit ridges on that side which would have been the same as working the purl ridges on the original side. The knits on one side are the purls on the other.
I think once you start the neck it will make sense to you, but please do not hesitate to ask questions.
Laura
Laura,
Thanks so much, your explanation really helped!
I finished the vest and love it!! So comfy in the Purl Soho Worsted Twist yarn!
I wonder if the pattern has an error in the row before binding off the collar. Is it Slip 1 wyib instead of wyif? That is what I did and it turned out great.
Also, I shortened the collar to 4 1/4" high and I think it may still be a tiny bit too high. I would recommend 4" high.
Thanks again for the lovely pattern!
Jennie
Jennie.
Thanks so much for writing back in. I'm glad my response before was helpful and I'm thrilled you're pleased with your finished product.
As for the comment on the COLLAR, I wrote the pattern how I knit it, but I am happy you found a modification you like. I'll have to try that next time.
And yes, the neck height is quite 'generous'. Again, glad you modified it to your liking and thank you again for sharing your thoughts on the pattern. It is helpful to me and all our other readers!
Now the question is… what are you going to knit next!?!?!
Laura
Laura,
I posted a photo of my finished brioche vest on Instagram with #purlsoho.
I'm already knitting the Purl Soho Pullover (in Royal Alpaca worsted weight yarn) and can't wait to finish it! After that, the Cable Back Shell in Purl Soho's line weight yarn!
Thanks for your great patterns!
Jennie
Hi Laura!
I'm newer to knitting and have so far made items from the site like the easy mistake stitch scarf, 11th hour scarf, and the knit collage pixie dust lap blanket. When would it be feasible to attempt this item? Or, is there an intermediary project that would help prep me for a task like this?
Many thanks!
Goodness, Elizabeth,
What a great question! If you have the want, then you are ready (or almost ready). To prepare for this project, I would knit up a couple swatches in stockinette and practice mattress stitch. I would also work up some swatches of Brioche Stitch to get familiar. Then, maybe practice decreasing in brioche stitch. If you can do all of that… then you're ready! Here are some links to our tutorials on the techniques I mention above:
Mattress Stitch (photo tutorial)
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-tutorials-finishing/2013/9/27/mattress-stitch.html
Mattress Stitch (video tutorial)
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-tutorials-finishing/2013/11/11/mattress-stitch-video.html
Brioche Stitch
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-tutorials-decorative/2013/9/23/brioche-stitch.html
Brioche Stitch Decreasing
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/knitting-tutorials-decorative/2013/9/23/brioche-stitch-basic-decrease.html
Hope this helps.
We are always here for any questions you have.
Laura
Hi there! Really excited to get started on this vest. Wondering if it's necessary to use 16" circulars the whole way or if you could use 24" (for example) for everything but the collar.
Thanks!
Amy
Hi Amy,
You can definitely work the majority of this project with a different length needle (ie: a 24-inch). As you noticed, it is working the collar that really requires the 16-inch circular needle. Hope you enjoy the pattern. It is one of my most favorite projects.
Laura
Just one more question — if my bust size is around 32.5"-33" should I go with the size small or xsmall? Assuming small, because then it won't stretch out the brioche much. But I'm a bit worried it won't be as fitted.
Hi Amy,
If I were you, I would make the small. You really want this piece to hover just above the body. When ribbing is stretched out it can make you look bulgy. If you are nervous about the piece being too big… I would suggest staying in the smaller needle for the entire project. The nice thing is, you can work a few inches and block that and see how your gauge is comparing and then decide. It's like an efficient second swatching.
Keep us posted on your progress!
Laura
Hi Laura!
I'm making some serious progress after a two-month break.
I uploaded a photo onto my ravelry project page: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/creeyore/brioche-vest
I'm LOVING it. Can't wait to have it in time for cool summer nights (will there be any??) and the early fall.
Hey Amy!
That's great. Thanks for including your link to Ravelry. Keep us posted. We love seeing progress / projects.
Laura
Hi! Beautiful pattern. I was wondering if I could use Queensland Collection Rustic Tweed as a yarn substitution? I have 3 skeins which I think is just enough for the small size…I think. Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated.
Thank you!-Maude
Hi Maude.
Queensland Collection Rustic Tweed seems like a wonderful substitution. At 4.5 stitches to the inch on a size US8 and with 278 yards a skein… it seems perfect! The size Small uses 5, 164-yard skeins, so 3 skeins of Rustic Tweed will be just the right amount!
Let us know how it goes.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Would Manos Maxima work for this sweater? It’s a beautiful yarn and super soft but it seems like I’m knitting larger than the pattern calls for with this yarn. I thought it was similar in size and weight to the suggested yarn. Any advice? Beautiful pattern!
Thank you!
Hi Stacy.
Manos’ Maxima should be wonderful for this pattern. It is a hair thicker than the Worsted Twist. You can accomplish the same gauge with Maixma as you do with the Worsted Twist, but to do so you may need to drop down in needle size.. The thick and thin nature of Maxima may result in a more irregular brioche rib fabric than the more even spin of the yarn used here, but that shouldn’t be causing “knitting larger” that you wrote about. Have you tried smaller needles? It can take a few rows before figuring out your brioche gauge.
Please let me know if you have any questions! Thanks for writing in.
Laura
When I clicked the links for the brioche tutorials I was sent to page that said “404 Page Not Found”.
Hi Savannagal-
I’m so sorry to hear you’re having this problem. The links and tutorials seem to be working fine from here. You might try using a different browser
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/09/26/brioche-stitch-basic-decrease/
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/09/26/brioche-stitch/
Or can you try those links? is there another one I’m missing? Please let me know if you’re still having this problem or if I’m not fully understanding your question!
Best-
Molly
I think i would like this much better if it did not have the turtleneck. Could you possible do a version without the high neck? I had thyroid surgery and can no longer wear such high necks anymore. Thanks so much, Lorie
Hi Lorie-
The collar section is the last thing you knit on this vest so it can easily be made as long or short as you like!
Thanks for writing in!
Molly
Hi Laura… this is such a pretty vest. I would LOVE to make this as I’ve only just learned to knit about a month ago and am working on a scarf right now using your *Fisherman’s Ribbed Stitch Scarf* pattern. I LOVE the way the stitch itself makes the scarf feel thick and bulky, and I can’t wait to learn the *Brioch* stitch. You use the most GORGEOUS yarns btw, but I hope to be able to buy the Merino yarns soon, and I hope I get as good as you someday. 🙂
Thank you for the beautiful vest pattern! I love turtleneck vests! I have tried brioche stitch before, but thought I was doing it wrong, because my first two rows didn’t look like brioche at all. Only after watching a video tutorial, did I see that the first two rows indeed don’t really look like it will look eventually. So, now I’m so ready to try again. And your pattern is the perfect inspiration to get going!
I love your patterns – they all look very classy.
Hi, I saw a comment that there was an error on the pattern, has that been changed and so the pattern showing is now correct? I love the vest and I have been attempting to make it but I keep fudging up on the start up row!! (beginner knitter).
Hi Yvonne-
The pattern should be correct now. What exactly are you having a problem with? We’d love to help!
Best-
Molly
Hello Laura. Thank you for this beautiful pattern. I am almost done knitting the front, but I am having trouble with the FRONT RIGHT. At the end of row two (the row with the first decrease) I end up with an extra stitch after the last bk2tog (I am assuming that I am continuing with [Bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, bk2tog]). Do I just knit it? If yes, the next row (the first row of a 2-row repeat) ends up starting with three non-paired stitches, while the pattern seems to be calling for two(Slip 1 wyif, p1, yon, k2tog)… What did I miss? Any help would be much appreciated! Thank you!
Hi Yuli.
I am so sorry for the delayed response. I was a bit stumped so I forwarded your question on to someone at the shop in NY who suggested it may be best if you stopped or call in to talk through it.
I am sorry to not provide more assistance. I just can’t seem to figure out where that stitch came from.
Laura
Thank you, Laura, but I figured it out!
Yulie.
I am so glad!
This has been haunting me.
Do you mind if I ask if it was something in the pattern that threw you off? I’d hate for other people to have the same problem.
Thanks.
Laura
Laura, thanks for your concern, but I think that I just confused myself in which shoulder was actually left, which one was right and k2tog vs. bk2tog.
Hi! Thank you so much for the pattern! I’m quite a novice. I have a (probably) quite silly question but the pattern states a k2tog on row 2 of the starting rows.
Row 2: Slip 1 wyif, p1, yon, k2tog, *YOS, bk2tog, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2.
If repeated as stated doesn’t this result into a decrease only on one side of the pattern? I’m not sure I quite understand this!
Thank you!
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for your comment. This pattern is a little tricky to get the hang of. There is actually no decreasing in this section of the pattern. The reason you only have to do those steps on row 2 is so you start the YOS, bk2tog on the right stitch. When you do the yon, k2tog you are actually not decreasing because you are knitting a yarn over with the slipped stitch. I hope this helps sort out the confusion and please feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Brioching!
Jake
Hi just wanted to confirm it’s a k2tog in Row 2 of the brioche pattern? If so, why is it an uneven decrease (only on one side of the pattern?)
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for your comment! The k2tog in row 2 is actually not a decrease stitch. It is knitting the YOS from the previous row which is a yarn over and slip stitch. The reason it’s written like that for row 2 is to get you at the proper stitch to start the YOS, bk2tog pattern. I hope this helps clear up the confusion and please don’t hesitate to write us back if more questions arise!
Happy Brioching!
Jake
Thank you so much for your beautiful patterns and being generous to share the patterns for free!
I have ordered merino script yarns thinking to knit this vest.
Could you give me some advise if I should go up in needle size or go with bigger size (knit Medium instead of Small)?
Hi Yuriko,
Thank you for the comment! It should be fine to substitute this yarn without changing the pattern at all since the Merino Script is a similar weight to the Worsted Twist. However I do recommend doing a small gauge swatch first just to make sure you are achieving the correct gauge.
I hope this works out and feel free to respond if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Hi Jake, thank you so much for your helpful reply.
I will do a swatch first as you recommended.
Hi ‘Purl’ team …
Isn’t it great to know that the community of knitters is always browsing and finding things. This post from a few years ago has me mezmerised. I love the use of Brioche technique to create shape and style. I am venturing into this style and appreciate you posting a free pattern for me to try. Bless ya!
Belinda
I have been waiting to knit this pattern for over a year. I even bought the yarn already. But I was hoping I would know how to alter the neckline by now. My neck does not like turtlenecks. Any ideas on how to alter it to a V-neck or pretty edging around the neck? I would try to figure it out mathematically but I’m horrible at doing the math.
Hi Lee!
Thanks for writing in! You are in luck, this pattern can easily turn into a crewneck (modifications for a V-neck are quite a bit more involved). Simply pick up along the neckline as if you were going to make the turtleneck, but then only work a few rows of the pattern in the round before binding off.
I do hope this helps! Please do not hesitate to write back in if you have any questions!
Laura
Such a beautiful pattern. I did Gina’s brioche cowl in a blue and turquoise and was amazing – would this pattern also work in two different colours of yarn? If I’d make sure that my favourite colour is the rib and then the contrasting colour would shimmer through in between? Thanks Madelon
Hi Madelon.
Thanks for writing in! Regarding working the vest in two colors… I love that idea. Since Gina’s cowl is worked in the round and the vest is worked flat, you’d have to modify the vest pattern quite a bit in order to accommodate the two colors. If you do it though… you’ll have to let us know how it goes!
Laura
Thank you Laura, will definitely give it a try over the next few months and will let you know how it went!
I’m at the point of decreasing for the sleeves however I seem to have 72 stitches and not 71. Is this an error and do I have to pull out all my work?
Hi Leanne.
Thanks for writing in. Do you have any hunches about where that extra stitch came from? Did you cast on the right number and then pick one a stitch up somewhere along the way? If the extra stitch is at the edge or along the edge stitches and isn’t noticeable you could leave it and work remainder of the pattern to accommodating that extra stitch. Remembering it’s there and modifying the pattern slightly to include it. Or if you can find where the extra stitch popped up you could rip back to that point. It’s of up to you!
Let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
Hello! I’m caught up in the same section “k2tog” section as several other people were. I understand the other explanations for this change, but does it mean that we’d be dropping the yarn over with the brioche stitch about to be knit together?
Hello Deanne!
Take a look at our instructions here for some more detailed guidance: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/09/26/brioche-stitch-basic-decrease/
Let us know if this doesn’t quite answer your questions. Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
Hello! I’ve been stuck for days on the first step on the wrong side of “Front Right Shoulder” – Next Row (wrong side): Slip 1 wyif, p1, yon, k2tog, *YOS, bk2tog, repeat from * to end. Every time I do this step and the next, it get a really tangled, ugly mess and I don’t know why! I suspect it may be the way I did my brioche in the first place so it doesnt match the pattern here. Since I’m nowhere near NYC atm, would it be possible for me to email you a photo of the situation? I’m using a really lovely merino/alpaca blend yarn and just ruining it by starting and restarting. I would really appreciate some help, thank you!
Hi Deanne.
Thanks for writing in.
May I ask what you mean when you say that you suspect it may be the way you did your brioche in the first place. Did you do a different style of brioche? Or maybe you didn’t work the selvage stitches the same way? The line of pattern you copied and pasted here is from the FRONT RIGHT section, before the FRONT RIGHT SHOULDER section. If you’d like to hands on assistance feel free to call the shop at (212) 420-8796. Hopefully someone can walk you through that line of pattern or you can email [email protected]
I hope we can get this figured out!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I would love to see your knitted garments on people. It looks nice on a body form, but would like to see how it wears and fits on actual people. Thank you.
Hi Charlene.
Thank you so much for the request. Back when we made this piece we weren’t yet in the habit, but now we do try to shoot as many of our projects on people as possible! I’ll see what I can do about getting a photo of this on someone soon. Thanks again! Laura
Thanks 🙂
What a great idea for my little one, warm and beautifull!
This is beautiful – is there any chance you’d fancy posting an updated version with a sleeve?!
Hello Stephanie!
I hope you and your sweet girls are doing well! Adding a sleeve to this garment would be a beautiful idea! However, we don’t have any plans to adapt this pattern at the moment. We’ll definitely keep track of the request! Happy knitting! -Alyson
I second Stephanie’s request. Could you please post an updated version with sleeves? Alternatively, could you design a fitted turtleneck in both a ribbed/brioche and a non-ribbed version? I want to make my own turtleneck and I know Purl SoHo would nail the design. Thanks!
Hi Yvette,
Thanks so much for writing us! We love our customer’s suggestions and we’ll keep this in mind for future projects. Thanks again!
Best,
Adam
Just wanted to say I’d love to see instructions for sleeves! I might even see if I can figure it out myself, because I love the idea of this as a full sweater!
Hi Alice,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have the resources to write a pattern for sleeves at the moment but thank you very much for expressing your interest and I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi… I too am having a problem with the Front Right decrease at the neck edge. Up to this point have found the instructions perfectly clear and completed the first of the decrease rows (wrongs side *YOS, bk2tog* repeat and then the following decrease row. My problem is that when I am now repeating these rows, the wrong side instructions still state *YOS, bk2tog* to end but I have 2 more stitches since I only decreased to now 15 from 17. Should there be a k2 or p2 added at the neck edge of the wrong side so that I can match up for the following decrease row?
Hello, Donna!
Thank you so much for writing in! I am very, very sorry for the terribly late response!
Both of these rows indicate to repeat the stitch pattern to the end, so you will continue the indicated repeating stitch patterns to the end of the shoulder section. Then after repeating the 2 decrease rows an additional 2 times (for a total of 3 repeats) you will end up with 11 stitches. The second row it is a little confusing when it says after the [Bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, bk2tog] twice, bring yarn forward, slip 1, bsk2p, work to end. The work to end is referring to the stitch pattern slip 1 purlwise, bk2tog, to the end of the row.
Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hi – gorgeous pattern – love this top! I was wondering if there is a version of this pattern written in the round? Would love to knit this top but am not a big fan of seaming – if there is no version of knitting this in the round, any suggestions on best way to convert it i.e. bottom up or top down? Thanks so much!
Hello, Judy!
Thank you for writing in! Sorry about the delayed response! Unfortunately, we don’t have a version of this pattern written in the round, sorry!
Again, thank you for your question!
Best,
Kumeko
Hi! Love the pattern but confused about the shaping on the back shoulders. When decreasing w p1, k2tog and then k2tog, p1 on the next decrease row on the wrong side), should the yarn be held in front to maintain the yarn overs, or held in back?
Thanks so much!
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words. I am not sure I am clear on what you mean by “maintaining the yarn overs”. If you come across a stitch plus a yarn over, you should knit them together. Let us know if you have any further problems.
Best,
Adam
Hello, I’m an English fan who loves your posts and patterns. I love this garment but I wonder if you could suggest a cotton or silk yarn that could be used. That beautiful neck would itch me to pieces in any wool yarn! Keep up the gorgeous good work!
Hello Fiona,
Thanks for the kind words! I think this pattern would look better with a cotton substitution instead of silk. Silk has a beautiful drape, but for this purpose it might take away from the stitch definition. I suggest you look at the Blue Sky Worsted Cotton. This yarn will show off the brioche stitch very well and even more, it is a great substitute for those who are sensitive to wool. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
I would like to make the brioche stitch by purling (BRP) instead of knitting (BRK) It is easier on my hands. The st comes out the same by k or p’ing it. The question is how to do the decreases OR transition from BRP to BRK when the decreases start.
I also posed this question to Nancy Marchant and she miraculously provided the solution. it is:
(WS) p3tog at the first juncture; second juncture – slip next 3 sts onto RN reversing direction, then put them back on the LN, then purl them tog thru the back. This is the same technique (sort of) for making an SSK (left leaning dec) on the purl side.
My next problem is I’m making this in sport weight and will have to figure out how many extra sts, but that’s no big deal.
Hello Carole,
This sounds good to me! Let us know how it goes!
-Adam
I am knitting the brioche vest, but have a question. I am following the pattern exactly, but the
Selvedge ribs seem to be longer than the rest of the ribs, causing a pucker on each side. Do you have any suggestions?
thanks,
Patty
Hi Patty,
Thank you for writing us! I’m sorry this is happening! I think that it will all work out if you wet block your pieces before seaming. Also, if you seam on the tighter side, then you might be able to eliminate some of that droop from the rib. I hope this helps you out!
Best,
Adam
Hello,
I love this pattern, the vest is lovely. I would prefer a bit of a boxier fit and I’d like to stitch the sides up fully, I’m wondering if using one size needle for the entire piece will accomplish this? I have some experience with brioche but this is my first garment…very excited to try it! Thanks!
Brandi
Hi Brandi,
So glad you love the pattern! I think you could get away with doing this in an aran weight yarn to achieve a boxier shape. You can also close up the sides — it’s up to you! As for the needle size, I suggest sticking with the three needle sizes because the brioche stitch tends to flare out. Maybe you can get away with two possibly? Best of luck with the experimentation!
-Adam
Hi, I’m having trouble with the edge where I turn from row one to row two. It’s really stretched out and loose compared to the other side. I think it may be something to do with the k2tog in row two. I see your explanation below but I still don’t understand. I looked at the brioche stitch guide and it didn’t help!
Hi Julia,
Thanks for the comment. I suggest tightening up on your slipped stitch to make the selvedge tighter too. I don’t know why you are getting a wonky edge on one side and not the other. You can tighten up the slipped stitch by pulling up on it after slipping it. This make take out some of the excess yarn. Let me know how that goes and if it’s still not working, I’d be glad to help you further.
Thanks,
Adam
Hi–I am having trouble in a place no one else seems to be! I did the back first figuring I’d practice up and the front would be neater. So I’m up to the Back Shoulders instructions which tell me to work across to the last 11 stitches for my size, then *p1, k2tog, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Here’s my question, if I p1 and then k2tog I am making 3 stitches into 2. After the first 3 which are a YOS column, a brioche knit column, and another YOS column, I am now up to the next brioche knit column and I should purl it? When I do the steps as instructed it doesn’t maintain my columns, and I am left with odd bumps and lumps in the row because it doesn’t match the columns.
Am I reading the instructions correctly?
Thank you!
Rochelle
Hello Rochelle,
Thank you for writing in! You should definitely maintain your brioche stitch, so I think you are reading the directions incorrectly. “P1, K2tog” refers to a purl stitch and YOS respectively, so you’ll want to purl and then knit together your YOS (this is the slipped stitch with a yarn over draped over the needle). I hope this clears up your issue! If not, feel free to write back.
-Adam
Love this! Like others, I’d like it even better with sleeves and I’m thinking of adding them… would love your advice. I’m thinking raglan sleeves, would I just need to alter the decreases above the armhole to create a raglan shape?
Hi Erin,
Thanks for writing in! What a great idea! Unfortunately we cannot customize a pattern over the comments section.
Best,
Cassy
Hi Purlbee team,
I am so in love with this pattern but I’m totally stumped at the front left portion of it. How do you do a yos at the end of a row and then do a k2tog at the beginning of the next row? I’m also confused by the decrease rows. I can decrease twice but for the third and final decrease, you’re only left with 1 stitch on the left side. Please help!!
Hi Lizzie,
Thanks for writing in! The YOS at the end of the row can feel a bit awkward. You will end the row with the YOS and hold the YO in place as you turn your work. The working yarn will now be coming from the front of your work once you have turned it. To k2tog, move the working yarn under the left hand needle and k2tog.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hey! What is the size shown on the mannequin? Does this run true to size? I’m usually a size 4/SMALL, but I’m looking for this to be fitted. Thanks 🙂
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! I find that the finished chest circumference is the best way to gauge what size to make. Here the finished chest sizes are 29 1/2 (33 1/2, 38, 42, 46 1/2) inches. I would suggest measuring the fullest part of your bust and choosing the closest size to get a fitted look. Given that brioche has a fair amount of play, if your chest measures 39 inches, you may want to select the 38 or Women’s Medium. This will give you 1 inch of negative ease which would result in a fitted look.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi again! Thanks for your last response.
So, I finally started this, and my question starts at the way beginning of the pattern.. I did the setup row (which is done AFTER the cast on right?), Then I did row 1 (which is basically slipping the first stitch knitwise, then knitting 1, then bringing the yarn to the front, slipping purl rise, and then knitting a stitch together with a yo… repeating, then finally knitting 1, right? lol), and then Row 2 (Slipping purlwise, purling 1, k2tog ( knitting one stitch and a yo together?) with the yarn still in front (yon), bringing yarn to front, slip purlwise, and knit a stitch and a yo together, repear, and finally purling 2).
So! If I’m (hopefully) getting this part right so far, I don’t understand why it messes up once I start to do the next Row 1. I go to slip the first stitch knit wise, then knit 1, but then when I go to do the next stitch, I see that it’s a stitch and a YO together, which doesn’t allow me to slip it and then knit the following two together. It’s really the opposite. I hope this makes sense. Do you have any idea what could be going on here?
I put exactly what I’m doing in parenthesis in the terms I understand them so you could correct them (please) if I’m doing something wrong anywhere.
Thank you in advance. 🙂
-Jennifer
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! On row 1, you will slip 1 with yarn in back, k1, * YOS (bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, bring yarn over right needle), bk2tog (knit next knit stitch together with its paired yarnover), repeat from * to last stitch, k1. On row 2, you will Slip 1 wyif, p1, yon, k2tog, *YOS, bk2tog, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. The first stitch of row 2 will be worked over the k1 from previous row. Then you will p1, which is the bk2tog from the previous row. Then you will yon (bring yarn over right needle); followed by k2tog which will be the YOS from the previous row. This will put you at the YOS which will be worked over the bk2tog from the previous row. Based on your description, it sounds like you might be missing completing the yon, k2tog in the first few stitches of this row.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hello, what do you mean by working even here:
Decrease Row (right side): Work in established pattern to marked stitch and its paired yarnover, bsk2p, continue in established pattern to 2 stitches (a knit stitch and its paired yarnover, and the following purl stitch) before next marked stitch and its yarnover, bk3tog, work to end of row in established pattern. (4 stitches decreased)
Next Row: Work even.
Would I be working row 2 of the initial brioche pattern?
Thanks,
-Jennifer
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, after finishing your decrease row you will go back to knitting row 2 of the brioche pattern ( Slip 1 whiff, p1, yon, k2tog, *YOS, bk2tog, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2)
I hope this helps!
Carly
Thank you so much for your previous help, I am still having trouble, with another issue though.
I just finished knitting up to 13 inches for the body and placed my stitch markers to begin the decreases. But while in the second round of decreasing, I’m noticing that holes are being created on both sides 🙁 I had to unravel it and now I’m at the point where my stitches are back marking the beginning. What do you think is happening? I’m following the visual instructions for the bsk2p and the bk3tog, so I don’t really know why I’m getting any holes. So weird. Has anyone mentioned this before?
Thank you
Jennifer
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to try and help! The most probable reason that you are seeing holes for is that you are knitting the bk3tog and bsk2p a bit more tightly than the rest of your stitches. Knitting these tightly can pull the yarn up causing small holes. I would suggest pulling a little less when working these stitches and the holes should lessen or disappear!
Best,
Cassy
Maybe it’s staring me right in the face, but where are the instructions to lengthen this garment? I’d like it a bit longer and maybe not contoured on the bottom?
Hello Erin,
Thank you for writing! If you would like to make this vest longer all you need to do is make the front and back body sections longer by equal amounts. Once you decide how much longer you would like it to be you will just add that amount to the 13″ that the pattern asks for.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am hoping you can help – I love this pattern and am almost finished. I am having great difficulty with the turtleneck. I’ve knitted and taken out the neck multiple times. I just cannot get the stitches picked up correctly for the neckline and knitting brioche in the round. I am wondering if you are able to provide and individual/private lesson to help put me on the right path. I can come to NYC any day, any time! I need to finish this project! Thank you in advance for any advice, or assistance or guidance you can provide. Thank you.
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! We would be happy to help you with this in person! Please send us an email at [email protected] so we can arrange a time and date.
Best,
Julianna
Hello! I realized the “back” side of this is coming out neater than the “front” side. I’ve knit the front side up to the shoulders so far, and I’m still working on the back. Is there any way the front and back can be interchanged?
Thank you.
Hello Jen,
Thank you for reaching out! If you prefer the inside you can certainly just seam you vest inside out at the end. I would seam your shoulders with the inside out and then turn it back to right side to knit the neck in the round.
I hope this helps to guide you and let us know how it goes!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Thanks ! I actually meant that the back.. meaning the second knit piece.. is nicer than the front knit piece. I’m wondering if they can be interchanged.
Hello Jen,
I understand now. 🙂 The instructions for the front and back are different in the shoulder sections- there is a bit more of a sloped decrease in the front- but I feel like you could reverse it and be fine.
Let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
Hello,
What kind of ease does this design have? I’m in-between sizes (small and medium) and need help in deciding which one to cast on for, the knowing the negative/positive ease of the garment would really help. Thank you.
Hello Caroline,
Thank you for reaching out! The chest circumferences that we give are the actual measurements. Given that brioche has a fair amount of play, if your chest measures 39 inches, you may want to select the 38 or Women’s Medium. This will give you 1 inch of negative ease which would result in a fitted look.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Dear purl_soho-team
What is the reason to knit the next to the last stich of every row while all the other stitches are knitted in each second row only? I guess that might cause ‘waves’?
BR
Antje
Hi Antje,
Thanks for writing in! I’m not sure I understand your question, but I believe you are asking about how each row begins and ends. The beginning and ending stitches of each row are worked in stockinette stitch, not brioche, to make it easier to seam up the vest, so they are different from the rest of the pattern.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Why do you start out with the smaller size needles and then switch the farther up you go? Doesn’t that make the hem tight? Or would it flair out too much with the stitch type if it were the same size needle all the way up?
Hi Morgan,
Thanks for writing in! We chose to use smaller needles for the first few inches to exaggerate the split hem on the sides of the vest. If you prefer that the edges of the split hem sit closer together, you could certainly work the entire vest on the largest needles! The edges won’t flare out, but rather will be straight all the way to the cast on edge.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi, I am having trouble at the front right shoulder and bind off. The pattern for the first row of this section says ‘slip1, with yarn in front, *p1, bk2tog, repeat from* to end‘. And for the second row, ‘p1, k1 repeat from to last stitch, k1. Is it correct that there is are no YON after the purl stitch in these two rows and the following rows in this section – just ordinary purl followed by knit to firm a basic rub? Or should I be knitting still in brioche? In previous parts of the pattern there is a YON or YOS before the bk2tog ( to form the brioche), but it isn’t mentioned here. I have knitted my piece this way (without a YON) but it looks very flat ( no fluffy brioche!) – and in your photos I can’t see this change in the pattern. I hope this make sense! I’m finding this part of the pattern quite confusing.
Thanks in advance for your advice!
Julie
Hi Julie,
Thanks for writing in! For the last few rows of the shoulder, yes, you will be working in ordinary k1, p1 rib instead of brioche. It will look flatter than the rest of the vest, but it will be for just the last five rows of the shoulder, and will make it much easier to seam the shoulders together!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Thanks very much, Julianna, this does clear things up!
Hello
I really wanted to do this in a slip stitch rib instead of a brioche stitch. Will I get the same effect reducing the stitches at the armhole? Any re commendations ?
Hi Kiran,
Thanks for reaching out! I haven’t heard of anyone trying out this vest with a different stitch, so I can’t say if you will get the same effect at the armholes since this patter is written for brioche and the shaping technique is a bit different. It would take a bit of trial and error but it could be possible to try this out with a different stitch!
If you do, please let us know how this turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am having trouble understanding the armhole edging at the end. I can’t picture what it looks like to pickup stitches and “binding off as you go”
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for reaching out! I’d be happy to help clarify this section of the pattern! When it’s asking you to pick up stitches and bind them off as you go, what you’ll want to do is pick up your first two stitches, then pass the first stitch over the second stitch. This will leave you with one stitch on your needle. You’ll then pick up another stitch (you should now have two stitches on your needle), and pass the first stitch over the new stitch. This way, you’re binding off the newly picked-up stitches “as you go”.
I hope this helps clear things up, but please let me know if you run into any other questions!
All the best,
Kelsey
Another sleeve person here, I suspect I could pick up the rows along the sleeve edge and just knit a sleeve using a different pattern? Thoughts on this?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could certainly pick up stitches along the sleeve edge and knit a sleeve using a different pattern!
If you do so, please let us know how this turns out!
Gianna
Hello, I have a question about the gauge on this. Is 15 stitches and 20 rows referring to the standard way counting or the brioche way? I’m doing my swatch counting stitches the brioche way and it’s far bigger than 4 inches. Thanks!
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for reaching out. In brioche, you’ll count the stitches the same way you’d count 1 x 1 ribbing! Each raised ridge is 1 stitch, and each lowered “valley” is also 1 stitch. So within 4 inches, you should be aiming for 8 raised ridges and 7 lowered valleys (or 7 ridges and 8 valleys). For the row count however, it’s a bit different. Each “V” counts as 2 rows, so you should be aiming for 10 “V”s within 4 inches!
If this is not what you’re getting, I’d recommend swatching with a different size needle. If your stitches are too large, you’ll need to try a smaller needle, and vice versa!
All the best,
Lili
Hi
I have no way of obtaining this yarn where I live. Does anyone know of any substitutions?
I live in Denmark, Europe, for reference.
Hi Frida,
Thanks for reaching out! We designed the Brioche Vest in a worsted weight yarn, so another worsted weight yarn would be the perfect substitute.
As always though, we recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge! If you would like to learn more about this, we have a handy tutorial called All About Gauge.
I also wanted to let you know that we do ship to Denmark! If you’d like to check out all the details on the different international shipping methods we offer, feel free to take a look at this page. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I started with the back panel first and now stuck at the shoulder section. Basically, I’m confused with the K2tog instruction. Right at the beginning of the pattern, in the abbreviations section, K2tog is explained as knitting the next knit stitch with its paired yarnover, as well as the following purl stitch. However, for the shoulder section, does K2tog imply knitting just the knit stitch and its accompanying yarnover, or would I need to knit the following purl stitch as well? If it’s the former, per the abbreviations section, the number of stitches remaining does not add up..
Hi Eeching,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern is written a bit unconventionally, but you can work the k2tog exactly as you would a bk2tog. You’ve actually been working this stitch since the beginning of the pattern (it’s in the instructions for brioche stitch in the NOTES section), so if you continue to knit this stitch as you have been, everything should work out correctly!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, this is my first garment project. Is the sweater meant to have negative ease in the chest area? Thanks so much for the free pattern
Hi Sophie,
Thank you for writing in. We are thrilled that this pattern caught your eye! This pattern is meant to have zero ease rather than any positive or negative ease but you could choose to size down if you are interested in working in some negative ease. You can read all about choosing a size in our in-depth tutorial here! I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions along the way!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella