Men’s Socks for Giving Away
These simple socks will warm the feet and heart of any recipient, but most especially of one whose gifts are few. Please consider making a pair for someone in your community who doesn’t have much. You’ll both be glad you did! -Whitney
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
UPDATE: THREE NEW SIZES IN NIGH DK
JANUARY 2024
Hand-knit socks in incredible Nigh DK might be designed to keep feet cozy, but when you make them for someone you love, these Socks For Giving are particularly good at warming hearts, too! One hundred percent of the very best cashmere there is, Nigh DK is amazingly, wondrously soft and warm. In twenty-four beautiful colors, Nigh DK has the perfect hue whoever your socks are for. Pick up your favorites and make some very special socks for someone very special!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoMensSocksForGivingAway. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Main Color: 3 skeins of Koigu Kersti Merino Crepe. Each skein of this light worsted/dk-weight yarn is 114 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 342 yards required. I used the color #2229.
- Contrast Color: 1 skein of Koigu Kersti Merino Crepe. I used the color #1303.
- A set of four US 5 (3.75 mm) double pointed needles
Shop our wonderful collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
26 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Size
To fit average man’s feet
8½ inches in circumference and a variable length
Pattern
The Cuff and Leg
With the Main Color (MC), cast on 56 stitches to three double-pointed needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On. (For help using double-pointed needles please check out our Double Pointed Needles Tutorial).
Join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until ribbing measures 1½ inches.
Knit every round until piece measures 2½ inches from the cast on edge.
With the Contrast Color (CC), knit 3 rounds.
Carrying the yarn up the back of the work, change to the MC and knit 2 rounds.
Change to the CC and knit 5 rounds.
Change to the MC and knit 2 rounds.
Change to the CC and knit 3 rounds. Cut the CC yarn.
With the MC, knit until the piece measures 8½ inches from the cast on edge.
The Heel Flap
Knit 14 stitches and turn the work so the purl side of the fabric is facing you.
Purl 28 stitches. (These 28 stitches are the beginning of the heel flap. For this section, you will be working back and forth on just these 28 stitches.)
Arrange the stitches so that the 28 heel flap stitches are on one needle. Put the remaining 28 stitches on hold on another needle.
Row 1 (right side): *Slip 1 purlwise, k1, repeat from * to end of 28 stitches.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, purl to end of 28 stitches.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 eight more times.
Repeat Row 1 one more time.
With the CC and while carrying the MC yarn up the side of the heel flap, repeat Rows 2 and 1 three times.
Repeat Row 2 one more time.
Turning the Heel
Still using the CC yarn and working just the heel flap stitches:
Row 1 (right side): K16, ssk, k1, turn the work so the wrong side is facing you and there are 18 stitches on the left needle and 9 stitches on the right needle.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, p5, p2tog, p1, turn the work. (17 stitches on the left needle and 9 stitches on the right needle)
Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise, knit to 1 stitch before the gap, ssk (with the stitch before the gap and the stitch after the gap), k1, turn.
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise, purl to 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all the heel stitches have been worked and 16 stitches remain on the needle. (For the last repeat, Row 3 will end with an ssk and Row 4 will end with p2tog.)
The Gusset
Knit across the 16 heel stitches. Cut the CC yarn.
With the MC (which you carried up the side of the heel) and the same needle (now called “needle #1”), pick up 15 stitches along the heel flap. (31 stitches)
With a new needle (needle #2), knit across the 28 stitches that have been on hold.
With another new needle (needle #3), pick up 15 stitches along the other side of the heel flap.
And, still with needle #3, knit 8 stitches from needle #1.
Now there are 23 stitches on needle #1, 28 stitches on needle #2 and 23 stitches on needle #3. Needle #1 is the beginning of the round (at the middle of the heel).
Round 1: Needle #1 – knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #2 – knit all the stitches. Needle #3 – k1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 56 total stitches remain.
NOTE: You now have 14 stitches on needle #1, 28 stitches on needle #2 and 14 stitches on needle #3. Keep the stitches arranged like this throughout the Foot section so that they will be properly situated for the Toe section!
The Foot
Knit evenly until the piece measures 2 inches less than the desired final length, measuring from the back edge of the heel.
Here’s a guideline for men’s shoe lengths (remember to knit the sock 2 inches shorter than the shoe length!):
US size 9 shoe (European 42) = 10½ inches
US size 10 shoe (43) = 10¾ inches
US size 11 shoe (44) = 11inches
US size 12 shoe (45) = 11½ inches
US size 13 shoe (46) = 11¾ inches
I’m making socks to fit a size 10 shoe, so I knit the foot until it measures 8¾ inches.
The Toe
Cut the MC yarn and join the CC yarn.
Round 1: Needle #1 – knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #2 – K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #3 – k1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 28 total stitches remain.
Then, repeat just Round 1 until 8 total stitches remain.
With Needle #3, knit the 2 stitches from Needle #1 so that there are 4 stitches on each of two needles.
Cut the yarn and graft the toe together using the Kitchener Stitch.
Weave in all the loose ends and block (they get really soft!).
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Nice pattern, but why would you ever make socks out of yarn that is not washable? How about posting an alternative yarn to use?
these are adorable and i love the sentiment! i will definitely be making these for those who need them this fall and winter…
thanks for all your great patterns!
Hi Mags,
This yarn, Kersti from Koigu is washable and dryable in the machine as is the regular (fingering weight) Koigu.
Hi, I would love to be part of your give away, unfortunally I can not knit socks, my mum used to knit us everything but she passed away when I was 16, I have tried so many times to knit with 4 needles but it just doesn’t happen, I can do things with circular needles, maybe I can knit these socks with them ?? I have also had my sister say to me why knit socks when they are cheaper to buy them….Sorry but nothing beats the warmth. I have made dolls recently for the children that don’t have any toys to play with in Africa
This is such a great idea, thank-you for sharing the pattern and the gift of giving. I’ll be linking to this and passing along the suggestion of giving to those who are in need.
Is there any way to re-size this pattern for a woman’s foot size?
I love the way these socks turned out and will add them to my “to knit” list for my husband. Thank you. I have made lots of socks out of Koigu and always wash and dry them in conventional machines. They last and come out perfect.
These are just gorgeous, I love the colours too, might have to give these a go, I have to admit i am frightened of the four needle thing!
Just to clarify, do you use four (4) skeins of yarn? The yarn listed is $14.50 a skein, right? $60 socks? I’m a beginning knitter, but am in awe of the cost if this is correct.
Hi P,
Yes you are correct. The socks can be made with 3 skeins, but then you wouldn’t have the stripe. You can also use any yarn that is a dk weight as long as you get enough yardage (appx 350 yards). There are many less expensive yarns out there.
I was just thinking it was getting to be sock knitting season, thanks for the pattern!
To avoid the jump you get when you make a stripe: At the end of the first row of a new color, (when you are beginning the second row), lift the stitch below the first stitch of the second row onto your left needle, knit it and the first stitch together. It makes for a seamless join. Love the sock pattern design. They are wonderful. Thanks for sharing so many great ideas on this site.
Knitting socks is my favorite thing to do. Thanks for the step by step. I am eager to get started for our shelter in town.
I took a sock knitting class several years ago, and not that I’ve made dozens of pairs, but just a couple, maybe the best tip that the instructor shared with us was to buy a second set of needles and start both socks at the same time—knit a little on this sock, then knit a little on sock 2—it seems to help that “just can’t get started on sock 2 after the first one is completed. I think its better known as S.S.S. (second sock syndrome) *smile* Thanks for all your patterns and great ideas—I love to open an email message from purl—-you make it fun!!!!!
How clever of your instructor Penelope. Will definitely try on my next pair. I do think with the yarn I used they look a little big. Might try a #4 needle next time and experiment with a different yarn. If I could knit a pair a week that would make me happy however there are all those other projects to do.
Thanks Purl.
Oh my. I wouldn’t even know where to begin with these directions. I can barely crochet a square or a rectangle much less knit.
When you get to the decrease for the toe, the patter states that you have 23 stitches on needle 1, 28 on needle 2, and 23 on needle 3. I’ve got 14 on 1, 28 on 2 and 14 on 3. I guess I am going to start decreasing with what I have and see what happens. Anyone else have this happen?
I’m so glad that I found this pattern. I’ve been thinking of knitting some socks to gift to the local resthome. Thanks for making this pattern available. Cheers!
im getting so frustrated/ why i cant solve this part?
Turning the Heel
(…)
Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise, knit to 1 stitch before the gap, ssk (with the stitch before the gap and the stitch after the gap), k1, turn.
and so on…
is the gap the one in the middle, lets say between left part and right part of the same needle? im lost
Hi Marianna,
The gap is where you turned in the middle of the previous row, so one stitch will be before the turn and one stitch after. Please let us know if you need more help!
Following the instructions in english (my second language) i think sometimes makes me lost in translation. im gonna try and thank so much for yr help. you guys created such a beautiful site and community!!
Oh my they are lovely socks, but at $15 a skein, that makes them $60 to make and my pocket book is not that big! Could one try the pattern with some Red Heart heart and Sole sock yarn? Thanks for the beautiful web site. Its a pleasure to learn new things.
Hi Tammy,
Yes, you can use any yarn that you want, as long as it’s the correct gauge. This yarn is 22 stitches=4 inches on the label so look for something comparable, and then just make sure you have enough yardage.
Good luck!
I am having a really hard time understanding this part of the heel flap:
Row 1 (right side): *Slip 1 purlwise, k1, repeat from * to end of 28 stitches.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, purl to end of 28 stitches.
is it right that the 28th stitch on the right side/first on the wrong side is always slipped, causing that one side to be shorter than the other and curved? i have a feeling it is wrong but I can’t figure out what I would be doing wrong as per the directions. for row two, after slipping, you purl all the way through, right? i have never knitted socks before so maybe i just don’t know the tricks but i just want to be sure i’m getting it right. thanks!
Hi, thank you so much for such great and easy instructions to make beautiful socks! Mine came out perfect even though it was the first pair I ever made! now after making a few pairs I was wondering if anyone could help me turn this pattern so that the sock would be in womens sizes? I would need help especially with how to work the heel once you have less stitches, in other words how many stitches to work with on the heel etc.
Thank you again!
Hi! would love to make these for a woman- is that possible? what would be the conversion?
Hi ljane,
To make a woman's sock with this exact pattern you'd have to make quite a few changes. If you're an experienced sock knitter, it's a fun challenge. If not, you might be better off just changing the gauge. Here's how…
Usually a woman's sock is about 7 1/2 inches in circumference, so you'd need to knit at a gauge that would end up that size, i.e. 7 1/2 stitches to the inch (56 stitches divided by 7 1/2 inches = 7 1/2 stitches to the inch). Once you've found the yarn and needles that together knit up to this gauge, you just follow the pattern as it's written!
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions and good luck!
Whitney
These look so cozy! Awesome photos and great tutorial…Thanks!
http://www.thesitsgirls.com/get-paid-blogging
Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise, knit to 1 stitch before the gap, ssk (with the stitch before the gap and the stitch after the gap), k1, turn.
and then row 4 while turning the heel..
I'm so confused. if you are on the right side of the work while knitting row three aren't you knitting away from, not towards, the gap in the row? do you knit towards the edge, turn and go back to the gap and then ssk? am I knitting in the wrong direction? this makes no sense to me.
Hi Christina,
There is a gap on each end of the Heel Flap, so on both the knit and the purl side you will eventually reach a gap. Also, just to make sure it's clear, the Heel Flap is knit back and forth, turning the work at the end of each row.
I hope this helps. If not, please let me know and we'll work it out! Thanks for your question!
Whitney
Hi there,
When you are making the heel flap and you S1 purlwise K1 on the first row, is your yarn in front or in back when you slip the stitch purlwise
Thanks, Leslie
Hi Leslie,
The yarn is in back. Thanks for the great question and good luck!
Whitney
I'm having trouble with turning the heel:
Row 1: K16, ssk, k1, turn the work so the wrong side is facing you and there are 18 stitches on the left needle and 9 stitches on the right needle.
Row 2: Slip 1 purlwise, p5, p2tog, p1 turn the work. (17 stitches on the left needle and 9 stitches on the right needle)
When I start Row 2, am I slipping the last k1 stitch from Row 1 and working my way back to the beginning?
HI Kathy,
Yes, you have it right, you do continue to work back and forth on just the heel flap stitches, turning the work between each row.
But keep in mind that you don't actually knit all the back to the “beginning” of the row. Instead, you'll work part way across the row, following the instructions, and turn the piece to work back the other way (again not reaching the end of the row). You're actually knitting what are called “short rows” because they don't go from end to end.
Thanks for your question and good luck!
Whitney
My next point of confusion has to do with the following step:
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all the heel stitches have been worked and 16 stitches remain on the needle. (For the last repeat, Row 3 will end with an ssk and Row 4 will end with p2tog.)
In my novice-ness; I worked all the heel stitches, but ended up with something around 8 stitches remaining on the needle. Should I have stopped when I had 16 stitches, regardless?
Thanks for all your help & patience!
Hi Kathy,
No, you really do work all the heel stitches and you do end up with 16 stitches. The final ssk and p2tog should happen at the end of the rows. Since it sounds like it may be the first time you've turned a heel, you might want to take yours out and try again.
Please let us know if you don't get it and we'll try to work it out!
Thanks for your question and good luck!
Whitney
Hi. So I swear I'm not incompetent, but when you change to CC knitting the heel flap, how exactly do you carry the MC yarn up the side of the heel flap?
Hi Ryan,
To carry the Main Color up the side of the heel flap you need to “trap” the MC when you purl the first CC stitch of each wrong side row. (The first purl stitch comes after the initial slip stitch.)
Trapping the yarn means to bring the MC between the working yarn and the knitting so that it gets tacked onto the side of your work as you move your way along the heel flap. Our Knitting Stripes in the Round Tutorial demonstrates the concept: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/stripes-in-the-round/
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any more questions and thanks for this one!
Whitney
Perfect pattern, gorgeous socks. I made a pair for a homeless person last year; I am now making 6 more pairs, for 3 brothers, BIL, nephew, and another for homeless shelter. Thank you for sharing this pattern.
I have made socks where the cuff is ribbed like this one, but the socks tend to fall down, am I doing something wrong, I was thinking of making these for my father, but worried about the socks falling. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Hi Joann,
You may want to try using a smaller needle size for the cuff (some people knit rib stitches quite loosely; something about switching from knits to purls I guess!). And you may want to knit the cuff longer. Just be careful that your cast on remains loose!
Thanks for asking and please let us know if you have any other questions!
Whitney
I hear the joy in knitting socks and have tried many times but they never fit properly. Every person I ask has a different needle size and a different brand of yarn.I want to use and have Briggs and little .Can I use this pattern with this yarn? I so want to be able knit sockets for my Husband and be almost as good as his Grandmother used to make for him…what size needle do I use with this yarn? Thanks…
Hi Confused-
I'm not familiar with the yarn you mention so I'm afraid I'm not sure how it would work in this pattern. The most important thing to consider when substituting a yarn in a pattern is that you are getting the same gauge listed in the pattern. This is especially important when it comes to things like socks which have to fit. So I would recommend doing a gauge swatch with your yarn to see if you can get the gauge listed in this pattern.
Thank you for writing in-
Molly
Hi!
I love purl bee, and this pattern is fantastic! My first pair of socks, but this pattern is so easy to follow once you get going.
I am having a little trouble with the toe – how many stitches are supposed to be on each needle when you start with the CC? I had arranged them evenly on each needle, but its looking like the seams are going to be too far forward . .
Thank you!
Hi Keegan,
I'm glad you've enjoyed your first foray into sock knitting! A key for working the toe is that you maintain the stitches on the needles as you left them at the end of the Gusset section, which should have been 14 stitches on needle #1, 28 stitches on needle #2, and 14 stitches on needle #3 (56 stitches total). If your stitches are arranged like this, your toe decreases will be properly placed!
I hope this sorts things out for you. I've added a note to the pattern so that no one else will face the same confusion! Thanks so much for asking and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Whitney
HI, I made these for my dad last year and they turned out awesome! (the first one I made is a bit looser than the second one but no biggie) I’ve been dying to make a pair for myself and have figured out the number of stitches I need but when I get to turning the heel I’m not sure how to do it. If I’m using 33 stitches for my heel flap how do I go about turning the heel?
Hi Betsy,
I’ve always worked my heel flaps over an even number of stitches, so I can’t totally vouch for the following advice, but here’s what I think…
Row 1 (right side): K18, ssk, k1, turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, p4, p2tog, p1, turn the work.
Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise, knit to 1 stitch before the gap, ssk (with the stitch before the gap and the stitch after the gap), k1, turn.
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise, purl to 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all of the heel flap stitches have been worked.
I hope this works! Let us know how it goes and thanks for asking!
Whitney
Since I’ve only made 2 pr before and am not yet familiar with how to change the math when reducing the cast on, I am wondering if someone might help me with this question please?
When turning the heel (and having used 26 instead of 28 for the heel flap, I’m now not sure how to proceed with Row 1 (rt side) using the 26 (instead of 28) stitches. Should I K16? K15? K17? just not sure how to adapt this part. Sorry. Thank to anyone who can help this newbie.
Hello Diane!
In order to get a little bit to the left of the center of the heel flap to start your decreases, you will want to knit half of the stitches you have (13) plus two, which would mean you should knit 15 to start off the short row shaping. The rest should fall into place, but please don’t hesitate to write in again if you get stumped!
Thanks for your question! -Alyson
Alyson, thank you for this; I really appreciate it. Yes, this is very helpful. I’ll carry on.
I just finished them and I LOVE them. I made these ones for my husband but now that I see how easy they are, I’ll be making more. First for my grown son and then two pair for our local shut-in seniors as a surprise gift. Thank you for this free pattern, for the clear instructions, your prompt replies with explanations, and simply for being here for the knitting community! From a grateful new knitter.
Hello, I was to make a pair of these for a but I am having a hard time trying to find the right colour. And I’m kind of new at reading a package. . I’ve made a pair of socks but using Patons sock yarn with 2.75mm needles. And I want to use a but thicker yarn then the Paton sock yarn.
Please help.
Ashley
Hello Ashley!
The gauge of this sock pattern is much larger than a standard pair of knit socks at 6 1/2 stitches per inch. We used Koigu’s Kersti Merino Crepe for our sample found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/yarndetail/870
If you’d like to find a substitute yarn, make sure that it can yield a gauge of 6 1/2 stitches per inch, or the sizing of the pattern will be off. I hope this helps! Write in again should you have any other questions! Thanks! -Alyson
Hi, I’m knitting socks to fit a size 8-1/2 shoe. What is the foot size I should knit to? The guidelines start at size 9 shoe. Thanks.
Hello Julie!
Socks are great because its really easy to make them custom sized! I would take only about 1/2 inch out of the body of the foot to accommodate the foot you’re knitting for! Best of luck -Alyson
Amazing tips about making this beautiful pair of socks. I also want to wear these types of socks so I will definitely try to make these wonderful socks but in green color because green is my favorite.
I got a problem with turning the heel. There are suppose to be 28 stitches on the needle but it says k16, ssk, k1 =18 stitches. Then it says 9 stitches on the other needle which equals 27 stitches. What happened to other stitch. Am I missing something.
Hi Darlene,
Thanks for writing us! There should be 28 stitches on the needle, but when you SSK, you are decreasing one. Therefore, 27 stitches in total is correct. Please see the SSK tutorial below! I hope this helps!
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/08/13/slip-slip-knit-ssk/
Best,
Adam
Thank you Adam I just knitted my first pair of socks. Thank you for your help. I need to make a pair size 7. How many stitches would I need to put on needle and to do the heel
Hello Darlene,
Thanks for writing. If you would like to make a men’s size 7 (US), then you wouldn’t have to change the pattern at all except for the instep length. If you are making these as a gift and don’t have the person’s foot near by, I would look up online the average length from a men’s size 7 foot and use that as a guide for the instep length. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
Hi, I see the links to the yarn you used are no longer valid. Do you have any other options for yarns, particularly lowish cost options?
Hi Julia,
Thanks for writing in! We do still carry Koigu Kersti. It appears that the links were broken but I have corrected the error and linked the yarn above! Thank you for letting us know!
A lower cost option for these socks might be Cascade 220 Superwash Sport.
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hi! love this pattern but a touch confused about sizing. What is an average man’s shoe size? What shoe size are you working off here?
Hello Julia,
Thanks for the kind comment! While I wear a men’s 9, Google says the average men’s shoe size is 10.5. I make my dad socks all the time and he’s a men’s size 10, but instead of fitting them to his feet every now and then, I’ll just make them a little loose on my size 9 feet and they end up stretching to fit his. Socks should have negative ease, so if they are snug, it’s not a bad thing. Good luck on the project and happy knitting!
-Adam
Thanks for the sock pattern. Can I use Kroy sock yarn for your pattern (do I need to make any adjustments to the pattern)and also do you have a pattern for circular needles (if so, what size should I use)? Many thanks. Anne
Hi Anne,
Thanks for your question! You can use any yarn you like as long as your get the gauge right. If you can’t get the stitch gauge, then you’ll either want to adjust the cast on or choose a different yarn. You can certainly do this pattern on circular needles! I recommend an 8″ cord. They take some getting used to, but are totally worth it for knitting in the round!
Best of luck and let me know how it goes!
-Adam
I have searched a lot for a good men’s sock pattern for my son’s Christmas socks. I love this.. I can use the basic pattern for pretty much any look.. solid, the pretty stripe this shows, or even an intarsia (His socks will have a Christmas tree pattern row ) Thank you so much. It’s a beautiful sock and easy pattern.
I’m having trouble understanding the heel flap. Total of 56 stitches, I knit the first 14 stiches then purled the next 28 stiches…these 28 stitches are the stiches I use for the heel flap..got that. What about the other 14 stitches? Won’t the round be off when I come back to pick it up?
Hi Ashley,
So glad you’re making these socks! When you want to start the heel flap, you will knit 14 stitches beyond the beginning of your round and then turn your work so the wrong side is facing you. You will now be working flat, purling the 14 stitches you just knit and the 14 stitches beyond the beginning of round marker. These 28 stitches will be your heel flap stitches that you’ll work back and forth until you are finished.
Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
Finally I found a pattern that my husband likes. I have made so many that didn’t suit him, I had almost given up then I found this patter! I am on my 4th pair. What a great pattern!
Cathy what yarn did you use to make your husbands socks?
Thank you.
I’m making these socks for the second time. I think it’s important for others to know how easy these are but also so well suited for people making socks for the first time.
I love making these socks. Thank you so much for sharing this free pattern and for your great instructions — really appreciated.
I am curious Diane and Cathy if you are using the exact wool recommended for this pattern and or if you have also successfully used other wool’s and might share those with me .
Is it possible to knit these socks two-at-a-time?
Thanks!
Hi Mark,
Thanks for writing in! You certainly can knit these and most sock patterns two at a time. We do not have a tutorial on how to do this but there are tutorials and books out there that address how to knit two socks at the same time. Alternately, you could purchase two sets of DPNs and knit both socks at the same time!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
the link for directions on how to finish the socks with a Kitchener stitch does not work. Could you please edit the link? thanks!
Hi Greg,
Thank you so much for letting us know! We have repaired the link and I am including it here for you!
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/kitchener-stitch-video/
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I will try this pattern but would like to know what you recommend to ensure the cuff does not slouch.
Thanks
Hello Lori,
Thank you for reaching out! I would recommend going down to a US 4 needle for the cuff to make the stitches slightly tighter. I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
This is a lovely pattern, and I particularly love the sentiment behind it. I am considering making some to give away, but I do not know the recipient’s shoe size and am hesitant to ask — do you think that making an “average” sized sock could work? Or do hand knitted socks really need to be made to fit the recipient’s feet? I don’t have enough experience with sock knitting to suss this out on my own and could use some advice! (Thanks so much for all the hard work and dedication that it takes to put together the amazing patterns and tutorials on this site. They are truly top-notch!)
Hi Jennifer,
Great question and thank you for your kind words! Socks are generally pretty forgiving. This is more so the case in circumference rather than length. Making hand knit socks, a men’s size 9 length will not really work for a man with a size 13 foot and vice versa as the 1 1/4 inch difference could mean a quite tight sock or a quite long sock. If you can get an idea of the recipient’s show size, you will have a much better result for the sock.
Best,
Cassy
Hi,
I am a very experienced knitter but never made socks. They intimidate me. So many comments on how great this pattern is I am finally going to try making them for my son-in-law for xmas. Is it possible to do this as a ribbed sock or simple pattern in the same color and keep with the pattern as written??
Thanks.
Hi Goldie,
Thanks for reaching out! While a simple rib worked on the leg of the sock and the instep shouldn’t change the fit of the sock too much, I would be wary of adding any other stitch patterns or motifs, since they can affect your gauge and therefore the fit of the sock. I do hope you give it a try as socks are wonderfully rewarding both to knit and gift!
Best,
Julianna
Good evening, finally gonna try knitting socks on doubled pointed needles and have been looking for socks for men. However, what would be better measurements of I was using regular worsted weight yarn, and size 7 needles for size 13 men’s feet? These seem easy enough, but wanting clarification. Thank you so much for this ?
Hello Eva,
Thank you for reaching out! These socks are great, but the the pattern requires a smaller gauge than what you are working with. These socks are knit with a US5 needle with DK/Light Worsted.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi!
Is it possible to make this with circular needles and magic loop technique??
Thanks!
Hi Emma
Thanks for the great question! You can absolutely knit these the magic loop technique! You will have to pay a little more attention to the directions when you get to the gusset area, and convert them to only using 2 needles, but it should work out fine!
Happy knitting
Jessica
Hi, I’m going to attempt to make these for my son who has a size 13 foot! I’ve never made socks & I’m not sure how to adjust the pattern for the size. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for reaching out! If you can, I would recommend measuring around your son’s foot at the ball of his foot. This sock will fit comfortably for feet that measure anywhere from 9 to 10 inches around, which should work for most men’s feet, and the pattern includes instructions for modifying the length, either by shoe size or foot measurement in inches. If your son’s feet are too large for the circumference of these socks, I wouldn’t recommend modifying them, especially for your first sock, as there is quite a bit of math that goes into the heel! Instead, you may want to consider our Easy Heel Colorblock Socks, which are excellent for beginners and come in five different sizes.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I’ve gotten to the gusset and was wondering if i need to pick up and knit the stitches or just pick up?
Thanks for your help! I love this pattern!
Hi Molly,
Thanks for reaching out! Once you pick up 15 stitches along the heel flap you, then with a new needle (needle #2), you will knit across the 28 stitches that have been on hold, then with another new needle (needle #3), pick up 15 stitches along the other side of the heel flap. Then once you have picked up all the necessary stitches you then will begin to knit in the round!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I could use some help please and I hope what I am asking makes sense. 😊. I have never knit socks before and I am using DPNs. I just finished the cuff and legs and cast on 57 stitches with 19 being on each needle. Now I am at The Heel Flap and am confused. Do I knit 14 stitches on needle 1 then purl 28 stitches on needle 2 and put the remaining stitches on needle 3? Thank you for any help.
Hi Janice,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! So basically you will be knitting 14 stitches and then turning the work so that the purl side of the fabric is facing you. You will then purl 28 stitches, these stitches will be the heel flap and you will be working back and forth on just these 28 stitches. After purling these 28 stitches you will arrange the rest of the stitches so that the 28 heel flap stitches are on one needle and you place the remaining 28 stitches on hold on another needle ( this includes the 14 stitches you began knitting with.)
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello,
Since you do not carry that brand of yarn this pattern calls for, what is a comparable yarn that you carry, that will work for this pattern? Thank you in advance.
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for your question! I’d recommend Good Wool instead for this project. To make one pair of socks in Good Wool, you’ll just need 1 skein of the main color and 1 skein of the contrast color!
With any yarn substitutions, we also highly recommend doing a gauge swatch to make sure your gauge is consistent with the pattern. You might find that you need to adjust your needle size! Here’s our guide on swatching if you’d like more information: All About Gauge. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat