Sunburst Pot Holder
Like a ray of light breaking through the clouds, our Sunburst Pot Holders in our new Serif brighten your day with their clever construction and vintage charm!
As fun to make as they are fetching, these pot holders are actually formed from a rectangular piece of garter-stitch fabric. As you knit it, you use simple short rows to shape the rays, and once you finish them, you connect the two ends of the rectangle with a 3-needle bind off.
Now with your loop of fabric, you cinch up the selvages to form the sunburst centers, squash the whole thing flat, and tada… Your double-thick pot holders are ready for their day in the sun! (Hard to imagine? Check out designer Hiromi Glover’s beautiful rendition in the pattern below!)
All this is in our glorious new Serif, with a clever construction of its own. A super soft and supple single ply of cotton wrapped with a thin cotton thread, Serif’s undulating strand knits into a slightly knobbly fabric, the perfect texture and thickness for a pot holder.
Serif’s cotton is 100% Peruvian Pima, whose long, smooth fibers create a yarn that is remarkably strong, soft, and absorbent. And its subtle shine adds an extra dose of beauty to Serif’s sixteen gorgeous colors.
We’ve paired up colors for thirteen beautiful Sunburst Pot Holder Bundles. Each one gives you enough yarn for three pot holders… Pick your favorite and knit up your own little pile of sunshine!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Hiromi Glover. Click here to see even more of Hiromi’s work!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoSunburstPotHolder, and #PurlSohoSerif. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Our Sunburst Pot Holder Bundle includes…
2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Serif, 100% Pima cotton. Each skein is approximately 164 yards/100 grams.
- Color A: 1 skein; approximately 45 total yards required
- Color B: 1 skein; approximately 40 yards required
NOTE: 1 bundle will make three pot holders!
You will also need…
- US 5 (3.75 mm), straight or 24-inch circular needles
- Spare circular or double pointed needles, US 5 or smaller
- A crochet hook and scrap yarn for Provisional Cast On
Choose from thirteen bundles…
Top Row: Heirloom White + Alabaster Cream; Cedar Wood + Heirloom White; Horse Chestnut + Alabaster Cream
Second Row: Heirloom White + Warm Rock; Alabaster Cream + Yellow Haystack; Yellow Ochre + Heirloom White
Third Row: Summer Melon + Soft Aloe; Gray Birch + Lemongrass Green; Gray Fedora + Summer Melon
Bottom Row: Heirloom White + Turquoise Tint; Quiet Lake + Gray Birch; Creek Blue + Warm Rock
Not Pictured: Blue Overalls + Heirloom White
SAMPLES: We knit our samples in Summer Melon + Soft Aloe, Heirloom White + Turquoise Tint, Alabaster Cream + Yellow Haystack, Yellow Ochre + Heirloom White, and Gray Birch + Lemongrass Green.
GAUGE
20 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
NOTE: The row gauge at the outer edge of the finished project stretches to 34 rows per 4 inches, due to the unique construction. If you can get the gauge listed above in a flat swatch, your pot holder will turn out just fine!
SIZE
Finished Dimensions: 7 inches in diameter
NOTES
CONSTRUCTION
You knit this piece back and forth in rows, using simple short rows to create shaping. You then use a 3-Needle Bind Off to join the Provisional Cast On stitches and your last row. To finish, you thread the tail along the selvage and pull taut to close the center hole on each side. Here’s Hiromi’s beautiful drawing of the process!
PROVISIONAL CAST ON
For assistance, including how to put live stitches back onto needles, please visit our Provisional Cast-On: One-Step Method tutorial.
SHORT ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP + TURN)
On both right and wrong sides: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Turn work so other side is facing you.
See this technique in action in our Short Row Tutorial at 0:30 seconds, except do not bring the yarn to the back before you turn. Also, because you’ll be working in garter stitch, there’s no need to pick up the wraps when you get to them (except one wrap at the very end). Just knit the wrapped stitches as usual!
CARRYING UP THE YARN
When you switch colors, be sure to carry the old yarn up the selvage in front of the new yarn.
PATTERN
With scrap yarn, cast on 35 stitches using a Provisional Cast On (see Notes).
Row 1 (right side): With Color A, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to last 10 stitches, wrp-t (see Notes).
Row 3: Repeat Row 2.
Row 4: Knit to last 7 stitches, wrp-t (see Notes).
Row 5: Repeat Row 4.
Row 6: Knit to last 4 stitches, wrp-t (see Notes).
Row 7: Repeat Row 6.
Row 8: Knit to end of row.
Do not cut Color A; join Color B, carrying Color A up the side (see Notes).
Rows 9–16: Repeat Rows 1–8 with Color B.
Repeat Rows 1–16 eight more times.
Cut Yarn B.
Carefully remove scrap yarn from Provisional Cast On, slipping stitches onto spare needles as you go.
Fold piece in half so right sides are facing each other and needles are parallel, with spare needles in front and working needles in back. With working yarn, bind off using a 3-Needle Bind Off, working remaining wrapped stitch with its wrap when you come to it.
Cut Yarn A, leaving a one-foot tail for gathering center.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends except for long tail.
Turn piece right side out.
Thread long tail onto a tapestry needle, then thread needle through each outermost garter bump along selvage all the way around. Pull tight to close center hole, then bring tail through center to other side to close the same way.
Weave in remaining end and gently wet block.
These are so wonderful!! How could the pattern be modified for coaster? Fewer pattern repeats?
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out! To size down this pattern, you’ll first need to cast on fewer stitches. Then, you’ll need to work fewer stitches on each short row, and also work fewer pattern repeats over all. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Donna – did this work?
I’ve never had an issue trying to print anything but this pattern is just stalled and not printing for me
Hi Nancy,
I’m sorry to hear that you’re having trouble printing this pattern! If you haven’t tried this already, I’d recommend using the Print function on this page to create a printer-friendly version. Here’s how to do so:
If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, just click on the “Print” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you!! Now I just have to choose the colors!!
If I used your “Cotton Pure” yarn, which is sport weight, do you have any idea how I would need to modify the pattern? I assume more stitches to cast-on but don’t know how to calculate the number of Repeat rows to do in Color A, and in Color B, to keep the proportions OK. And if there were more stitches cast-on would I also need to modify the wrap and turns? Perhaps start with the first wrp-t at the last 16 sitiches, then 13, then 10 stitches and so on. I am afraid the math is beyond me for a different weight yarn.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! To modify this pattern for a thinner yarn, you’ll first need to cast on more stitches. Then, you’ll need to work more stitches on each short row (and add more short row repeats if you’d like), and also work more pattern repeats over all until the potholder is able to close/flatten into a circle.
In order to be able to make any more exact calculations, you’ll first need to knit up a gauge swatch in pattern with Cotton Pure. Once you know how many stitches and rows you’re getting per inch, then you’ll have a better sense of the modifications you’ll need to make, and I’d be happy to help more from there!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili, I was wondering this as well. The serif is lovely but I have so much cotton pure on hand! Could I simply work two strands together?
Hi Amy,
Yes, you could absolutely use 2 strands of Cotton Pure! You’ll still need to make a gauge swatch (or swatches) though, to determine what size needle to use in order to achieve the gauge. There’s also a chance you won’t be able to match the correct gauge and would need to make some modifications to the pattern. But the first step is always swatching!
All the best,
Lili
Dear Purlsoho,
What fun and just in time for potato chip, summer knitting! Clearly written pattern with clever construction. I had to knit one immediately.
Thank you for theses great free companion patterns!
Thank you so much for reaching out to share your kind words about this pattern! We’re so glad to hear that it caught your eye. Happy knitting!
All the best,
Lili
Can you use German short rows instead of wraps and turns? Thank you!
Hi Sherry,
Thanks for reaching out! You can absolutely modify this pattern to use German short rows instead! You’ll just need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “knit to last 10 stitches, wrp-t,” you’ll actually need to “knit to last 9 stitches, make double stitch.” Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Can’t wait to cast on! At the end when you cinch up , do you have to do that for both the front AND back? If yes, you use the same tail yarn?Thank you!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! When you come to the end of the pattern, you will thread the needle through each outermost garter bump along selvage all the way around on one side. Then, you will pull tight to close center hole and bring tail through center to other side to close the same way, with the same yarn still. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m new to WRP-t. After I do the wraps and I’ve turned my work, the pattern says “knit to end” but I’m on the purl side at that point. What am I missing? Thanks!
Hi Kim,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern is in garter stitch, which means that you’ll be knitting each row. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I love your pattern for the sunburst pot holders along with the colors. But being a new knitter l am not understanding where do l make knit the last Wrap and turn stitches. Any assistance you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Marilyn,
Thanks for reaching out! Are you referring to the final wrap + turn that you work on Row 7? If so, then you will work that wrap + turn right after knitting to the last 4 stitches of the row. So the wrap will be created on the 4th stitch from the end of the row!
All the best,
Lili
I was so excited to make these pot holders because they are so cute! I finished a set of two before trying, and I found that they are not quite thick enough as is to act securely as a pot holder. They work for me if you fold them in half again but then the area is so small I am concerned about being burned on the top of my hand. My gauge was right on as well. Do you have any recommendations? Or other suggestions for projects to do with two skeins of Serif? Thanks!
Hi Laura,
I’m sorry to hear that the potholders you made don’t feel quite thick enough! One option we’ve thought of is to seam two potholders together to make one that is the same shape, but twice as thick. That should help your hands feel more protected!
If you want to try a different project though, I’d recommend our Heel Stitch Hand Towels, which we recently reknit in Serif. Or if you’d like to stick with the same design, our Sunburst Pot Holders also work great under a warm dish on the counter, or as a coaster for drinks!
All the best,
Lili
I’d like to adapt this to make felted trivets. Any thoughts?
Hi Mary Lou,
That’s such a great idea! The most important thing you will have to change is the type of yarn. You’ll need to use an animal fiber yarn in order to felt the trivets! Then, if you want to make them a bit smaller than the original pattern, the easiest way to do that is to use a thinner yarn (since you’ll already need to choose a different yarn). A sportweight or fingering weight yarn should be perfect! Of our yarns, I’d recommend using Good Wool, Linen Quill, or Line Weight. Then, you can follow the pattern exactly as written, felting the trivet after you finish knitting.
I hope this helps get you started, and please let us know if you end up trying this out!
All the best,
Lili
When l pull the yarn through the outermost garter bumps l am getting holes around the center. What could l be doing wrong.
Hi Marilyn,
Would you be able to send over a photo of your pot holder to customerservice@purlsoho.com? That way, we can better visualize what might be going on!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I’m a relative new knitter and am trying the Sunburst Pot holders. I’m confused about row counting. After the wrap and turn, are you then starting the next row? I have been then knitting to the end and counting that as the same row. I’m not sure that correct. My knitting is reducing on one end, but wide on the other. Should it be reducing on both ends. Thanks for the help.
Dawn
Hi Dawn,
Thanks for reaching out. You actually should not be knitting to the end of any row until Row 8! Each short row is only what the pattern says, so no need to knit back across. It may help to see the pattern written out in more specific language for each and every row, like this:
Row 1 (right side): With Color A, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to last 10 stitches, wrp-t (see Notes).
Row 3: Knit to last 10 stitches, wrp-t (see Notes).
Row 4: Knit to last 7 stitches, wrp-t (see Notes).
Row 5: Knit to last 7 stitches, wrp-t (see Notes).
Row 6: Knit to last 4 stitches, wrp-t (see Notes).
Row 7: Knit to last 4 stitches, wrp-t (see Notes).
Row 8: Knit to end of row.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions as you continue knitting!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lilli,
Thank you so much for your prompt reply. You answered my question and I’m off and knitting!
Thank you,
Dawn
I thought it was a hat! Wish it was!!!
This is a beautiful pattern-would you consider turning it into a beret?
Hi Moki,
Thank you so much! I also think it would look very cute as a beret, and I’ll pass along your idea to our design team!
All the best,
Lili
Do l block these potholders in cold water? And, does it matter for how long.
Hi Marilyn,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you can definitely wet block these pot holders. I’d recommend leaving them to soak in the water until they are fully saturated and then laying them flat to dry!
All the best,
Lili
I love this pattern! Can you suggest the best way to attach a loop to the outer edge so the potholder can be hung on a hook? Could I extend the final yarn end from the middle, pull it through the edge, then do a I-cord loop? Or might there be a better way?
Hi Laura,
That’s a great idea, and I think your method will work very well! It’s definitely the most “seamless” way to do something like this for this pattern.
All the best,
Lili
These are great! Please tell me there is a video tutorial! ?
Hi Susie,
Glad to hear that this pattern caught your eye! We do indeed have video tutorials for all the special techniques in this pattern. You can find them linked throughout the pattern, and I’ll also include them below:
Provisional Cast On: One-Step Method
Short Rows: Wrap + Turn
3-Needle Bind Off
I hope this help you visualize the techniques used in this pattern, and please let us know if you have any other questions as you start knitting. We’re happy to help explain things along the way!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
The pattern says wrap and turn in the 2nd row , when the wrap and turn is complete the stitch is purl but all the rows are knit. the question is how do I do knit with the yarn on purl side . Hope you understand . Please guide I would love to make some of these pot holders.
Thanks
Vasanti
Hi Vasanti!
Thanks for writing in! This pattern is worked completely in garter stitch so when you are completing the wrap and turns, you are actually setting up your working yarn to be in place (the back) to knit the other side of your work. I hope this helps but if you need further explanation, please feel free to let us know!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I’m new to knitting but love the look of these. Would you say this is too hard for a new knitter. I have followed a few simple patterns so far. Many thanks Jodie
Hi Jodie,
This pattern would be an exciting challenge for a beginner knitter! Before you get started, I’d recommend reviewing our Provisional Cast-On tutorial and our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial. If these techniques are new to you, I’d also recommend practicing them with scrap yarn before beginning the project.
I hope this helps you get started, and as always, we’re always here to answer any questions that come up along the way!
All the best,
Lili