Slice of Goodness Wrap
Our Slice Of Goodness Wrap leans into so much of what we love about knitting: the rhythm and feel of garter stitch in your hands, the marvel of creating a beautiful shape, and the joy of wearing something you’ve made!
This clever little number has you cast on the long way and then use short rows to shape a generous bulge in the middle, designed to keep you warm. Both ends gently taper into tassels, adding just enough weight and length that the wrap stays put.
Don’t let the prospect of short rows scare you. Because it’s all garter stitch, you don’t have to pick up the wraps, making this a perfect beginner knit that accomplished knitters will enjoy as well.
The amazing feel of the Slice Of Goodness Wrap comes from our gorgeous Season Alpaca. One hundred percent super baby alpaca, it is a very soft, very special grade of alpaca that really is all goodness.
Season Alpaca now comes in four new colors, including this Matcha Green, whose vitality is a real pick-me-up! It also reminds us that Old Man Winter will eventually move on, and spring, in all its green glory, will return.
Matcha Green, or any other of Season Alpaca’s nearly two dozen colors, cast on for this slice of goodness!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Gianna Mueller. Click here to see even more of Gianna’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoSliceOfGoodnessWrap, and #PurlSohoSeasonAlpaca. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 5 skeins of Purl Soho’s Season Alpaca, 100% super baby alpaca yarn. Each skein of this sport weight yarn is 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 915 yards required. We used Matcha Green.
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 40-inch circular needles
- Removable stitch marker
GAUGE
22 stitches and 44 rows (22 ridges) = 4 inches in garter stitch
SIZE
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 18½ inches wide at widest point x 73 inches long, excluding tassels
NOTES
SHORT ROW SHAPING
WRP-T (WRAP + TURN)
On both right and wrong sides: Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Turn work so other side is facing you.
See this technique in action in our Short Row Tutorial at 0:30 seconds, except do not bring the yarn to the back before you turn. Also, because you’ll be working in grater stitch, there’s no need to pick up the wraps when you get to them. Just knit the wrapped stitches as usual!
PATTERN
Cast on 400 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
TIP: When you’re casting on so many stitches, it really helps to place a marker or piece of scrap yarn every 50 stitches. That way, when you lose count (which you will!), you won’t have to recount all the stitches. Just remember to remove these markers when you work the first row.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Knit to end of row, and place removable stitch marker for wrong side.
Short Row 1 (right side): Knit to last 2 stitches, wrp-t (see Notes).
Short Row 2 (wrong side): Repeat Row 1.
Short Row 3: Knit to 2 stitches before wrap, wrp-t.
Repeat Short Row 3 until 4 stitches remain between wraps, ending with a wrong-side row.
Next Short Row (right side): Knit to end of row.
Next Row: Knit to end of row.
With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.
FINISHING
Weave in the ends, and gently wet block.
TASSELS
Following our Tassel Tutorial, make two 7-inch long tassels. Use a piece of cardboard that measures 7½ inches along one side and wrap the yarn 25 times.
With right side facing you, use the tassels’ tails to attach a tassel to each end of the wrap.
Weave in the remaining ends.
LEARN ABOUT SEASON ALPACA + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Season Alpaca always brings deep beauty to your hand-knits. Made of 100% super baby alpaca, the most special grade of Peruvian alpaca there is, this sport-weight yarn is incredibly soft, and with its long fibers and many fine plies, it also creates smooth stockinette and lovely stitch definition. Prepare to knit with your new favorite alpaca yarn!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Season Alpaca knitting patterns and cast on!
More Sport-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of sport-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop alpaca yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
That is gorgeous! I love garter stitch and must cast this on next. 💕 Thank you!
Hello, I’d like to follow up on my post above. I CO this past weekend, 400 is a lot of stitches! My long tail wasn’t long enough so had to start over and decided on a knitted cast on instead. I’ve only made 4 rows and decided a marker placed at the warp is a great way to tell me when to wrap on the next row. I’m finding your method works really well. Also, made a small replica with 40 stitches to make sure I’m following correctly and it turned out great.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks so much for the update on your project! We’re glad to hear that it’s going well so far. Making a small replica of a pattern before beginning the actual project is a great way to get a feel for a pattern (I do this myself all the time)!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for the tip on making a micro version plus addition of the marker!
I am extremely confused by this pattern!! I know how to wrap + t, as I have knitted several socks and shawls. Problem I’m having is 2 fold: your wrap+t video shows how to do so in stockinette stitch (this pattern only uses knit stitch and says not to pick up the knits – ok I understand that) ish! But there are only several rows of instructions after which one is told to BO. What about instructions to create the depth of the shawl and where are instructions for increases and how many rows to create said depth? Thanx kindly for your assistance.
Respectfully: Lyn ~
Hi Lyn,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that this pattern is daunting! The key instruction to make note of is this one:
Repeat Short Row 3 until 4 stitches remain between wraps, ending with a wrong-side row.
This line of the pattern means to keep doing short rows (just repeating Short Row 3) until only 4 unwrapped stitches remain between your most recent two wraps! This comprises many, many rows, and it will create the depth of the shawl. We’ve written it in a condensed manner, since it would have taken up way too much room to write out each repeat of Row 3!
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
It certainly does!!! I’m over the moon thrilled to now be able to grab some yummy yarn and CO!!!
Many and grateful thanx Lili!
Hi,
I’m only 5′ and petite. how can I modify this shawl for my size?
Hi Susana,
Thanks for writing in! Instead of casting on 400 stitches, you can try casting on 350 stitches to make the wrap about 63 inches long instead. It looks like we used approximately 4.2 skeins for this project to make this 18.5 inches wide at the widest point x 73 inches long, excluding tassels. If you cast on 50 less stitches, you should be able to complete this with 4 skeins that way, but we have no way of knowing for sure. I recommend using another yarn for the tassels just in case!
You can follow the rest of the instructions as is. I hope that helps! Let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Cat
Thank you I will let you know how it works out. I’m excited.
Hi Cat and Susana,
I’m writing to say that I just finished the wrap, casting on 350 stitches instead of 400 after seeing your exchange. It worked beautifully, and I used three skeins and part of the fourth skein. I also shortened the tassels by an inch to be proportional to the size of the wrap.
Thanks!
Sonja
Can I use German short rows instead of W & T?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in. You can absolutely modify this pattern to use German short rows instead! However, you’ll actually need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “Knit to last 2 stitches, wrp-t,” you’ll actually need to “Knit to last stitch, make double stitch.”
Alternatively, if you want to learn more about wrap + turn short rows, I want to let you know that we have a wonderful tutorial! You can find it right here. Because this pattern is entirely garter stitch, the wraps will blend right in with the purl bumps, making wrap + turn short rows the more visually consistent choice for this pattern, rather than German short rows. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Would a knitted or cable cast-on be suitable for this?
Hi Karin,
Thanks for writing in! For sure, either of those cast-ons would work great for this pattern, too!
All the best,
Cat
Can you use German Short Row stitches instead of Wrap & Turn?
Also, what size swatch would you recommend to get gauge and practice?
Hi Joyce,
Thanks for writing in. You can absolutely modify this pattern to use German short rows instead! However, you’ll actually need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “Knit to last 2 stitches, wrp-t,” you’ll actually need to “Knit to last stitch, make double stitch.”
Alternatively, if you want to learn more about wrap + turn short rows, I want to let you know that we have a wonderful tutorial! You can find it right here. Because this pattern is entirely garter stitch, the wraps will blend right in with the purl bumps, making wrap + turn short rows the more visually consistent choice for this pattern, rather than German short rows.
And in answer to your other question, I’d recommend making a 6 x 6-inch swatch, as that will give you the most accurate gauge measurement. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there.
The pattern looks lovely and I’m excited to try it, but I am slightly confused about the instructions for the wrap + turn. I see somebody else has asked this question, however I am still a bit unsure. I’ve watched the video which shows how to perform the short rows in garter stitch and I understand your instructions on not bringing the yarn to the back before you turn the work. I’m confused about not picking up the wraps again as you say not to do that when you get to them, but then also to “knit the wrapped stitches as usual… So do I pick up the wraps or do I leave them? Do I just continue in garter stitch, ignore the wraps and continue knitting into each stitch along?
It may be that my brain isn’t working since it’s 2am here in the UK – I just wanted clarification before I started as I’ve never knitted short rows before!
Thanks so much,
Suzy
Hi Suzy,
Thanks for reaching out. You have exactly the right idea! When you get to a wrapped stitch, just ignore the wrap and knit each stitch as you would a normal stitch. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili, that’s helps to clarify things ☺️ x
Hello Lili,
Phew! Thanks for the clarification. I am new to this too.
Thanks for posting the query Suzy – just what I wanted to know!
Lovely looking garment! 🙂
Jude
London, UK
You’re very welcome!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili, thank you again for your pattern and reassuring advice. Just wanted you to know, I did knit a wrap from this pattern :-). I made a colour blocked version using yarn from the stash: 2 balls of Jamieson Spindrift held together (a bright green shade, and an almost turquoise one), 5 skeins of Kremke Soul Wool (navy, and 2 shades of green), and a skein of dark green, luscious Tinde by Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk. Thankfully wrap & turn soon became something I could do mindlessly on the top deck of a London bus :-). The only thing I did wrong was change colour on the wrong side the first time. Now I celebrate that one odd row! 😀 From a tentative, maiden outing, which garnered compliments, I have snuggled proudly in this creation all winter :-). Hoping to knit another at the full size – also from the stash – perhaps in DK yarn. I just downloaded your striped triangular wrap pattern for more inspiration. Thank you for vastly reducing any wrap & turn fear! Also for reminding me that big projects can also be happy, mindful journeys. A very happy customer! 🙂
Hello,
This is so lovely. Can I use German short rows instead of wrap and turn? Also, what is the finished length and depth…is it similar to one triangle of the H&HTW?
Thanks.
Hi Joyce,
Thanks for writing in. You can absolutely modify this pattern to use German short rows instead! However, you’ll actually need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “Knit to last 2 stitches, wrp-t,” you’ll actually need to “Knit to last stitch, make double stitch.”
Alternatively, if you want to learn more about wrap + turn short rows, I want to let you know that we have a wonderful tutorial! You can find it right here. Because this pattern is entirely garter stitch, the wraps will blend right in with the purl bumps, making wrap + turn short rows the more visually consistent choice for this pattern, rather than German short rows.
In answer to your other question, you can find the dimensions of this wrap in the SIZE section! But for quick reference, it’s approximately 18½ inches wide at the widest point (the center of the wrap) and 73 inches long, excluding the tassels. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Great pattern, I will definitely give it a try. I was wondering if I could use German short rows instead. Would that work? Thanks
Hi Ana,
Thanks for writing in. You can absolutely modify this pattern to use German short rows instead! However, you’ll actually need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “Knit to last 2 stitches, wrp-t,” you’ll actually need to “Knit to last stitch, make double stitch.”
Alternatively, if you want to learn more about wrap + turn short rows, I want to let you know that we have a wonderful tutorial! You can find it right here. Because this pattern is entirely garter stitch, the wraps will blend right in with the purl bumps, making wrap + turn short rows the more visually consistent choice for this pattern, rather than German short rows. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much for the response, I’ll check the tutorial.
I feel like I’m missing a key thing about short rows…do I ever drop or decrease stitches? Or do I just keep moving the wraps in further, while always having a total of 400 stitches on my needle? I feel like it should be obvious, but I don’t want to get too far in and be wrong. Thank you!
Hi Mara,
That’s a great question! The stitch count for this wrap will remain the same the whole way through. The shaping is created entirely using short rows, so you will indeed always have 400 stitches on your needles!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I’m about 10 rows in and developing a hole before my last stitch. Do I need to be wrapping the last 2 stitches Together? I’ve read the instructions several times and watched the video keeping in mind that I keep the yarn in front before turning but I’m def doing something wrong?
Hi Michael,
Thanks for reaching out. When working a wrap + turn, you will only need to wrap 1 stitch! There will naturally be a gap between the wrapped stitch and the one directly adjacent, since the wrap pulls the wrapped stitch inward. This gap will disappear once you knit all the wrapped stitches on Next Short Row and Next Row. I hope this helps, but if you’re still experiencing difficulty with this pattern, I’d recommend sending a photo of your work to [email protected] so that we can visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I figured out the answer to my previous question, but am hoping for some clarity about “knit to 2 stitches before the wrap, then wrap and turn”. Are you essentially losing 2 stitches per row or just 1?
Hi Michael,
Great to hear! You will be working 2 fewer stitches on each short row.
All the best,
Lili
Hi, i am so confused. If I knit to the last two stitches and then slip the next one onto my right needle purlwise and then transfer it back to the left needle and turn my work, I still have two stitches that havent been knitted.
I didnt find the video helpful as they were demonstrating the technique mid row not at the end of a row.
When i have made socks I lift the stitch over thereby removing it from the needle. Following the directions here I am not losing any stitches at all
I just cant see how is a decrease being made and feel so stupid
Hi Kate,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that you’re confused about this pattern! There actually are no decreases being made at all, since the stitch count remains the same for the entire pattern. All the shaping is created by wrap + turn short rows!
The wrp+t stitch will never happen at the end of a row, so it sounds like you’re doing that part correctly! You should have 2 stitches remaining at the end of Short Row 1 when you make the wrap + turn. Then, you’ll be in the correct spot to begin Short Row 2!
Hope this helps clarify things! It sounds like you’re doing everything correctly at the moment, so I’d recommend continuing on with the pattern. Please don’t hesitate to reach out if you run into more trouble further on though!
All the best,
Lili
Just adding a post script to my message sent at midnight last night after trying for two days to make sense of the short rows instructions.
I realise I am a literalist so need very explicit instructions – I reread all the comments and the one I found the most helpful was the one from Michael about the stitch number on the needles always being 400. I think it would be really helpful to have that added to the short row instruction for folks like me.
It still didnt solve my problem of having two unworked stitches at the end of the row but I am now thinking maybe you do the wrap thing to both of the last two stitches? Thank you
Hi again, Kate,
I just saw your second comment! I’m glad that you were able to find the answer to your first question sooner rather than later.
When working short rows (of any kind), you will not work all the stitches in each row. That’s why the rows are “short”! Once you knit to the last 2 stitches and work the wrp-t on the following stitch, you will be in the correct position to begin Short Row 2, and you can completely ignore the remaining stitches which will now be on your right needle. Instead, just begin Short Row 2 by knitting as normal! Then, when you work the wrp-t on that short row (also without working the final stitches of the row), you can move onto the next short row, etc.
Let me know if this makes more sense now!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you thank you. I have finished now and love it.
Hello. When you get to the last two stitches- are you wrapping the second to last stitch and then when you get back the fourth stitch from the end? or are you wrapping the third to last stitch and not touching the last two and then when you get back you would be on the sixth to last stitch (because you don’t touch the two before the wrap?) or are you working one of the two stitches so it is like every other stitch?
Hi Julianna,
Thanks for reaching out! On Short Row 1, you’ll be wrapping the second stitch from the end, and on Short Row 3, you’ll be wrapping the 4th stitch from the end, then the 6th, 8th, etc. There should be 1 “normal” stitch between each wrapped stitch!
All the best,
Lili
Short Row 3: Knit to 2 stitches before wrap, wrp-t.
After knitting 5-6 repeats of short row 3, I realized I have no ‘normal’ stitches’ between wrapped stitches. Just wrapped stitches at the end of each row.
So now, after reading your reply above, short row 3 is knit to 2 stitches before the wrapped stitch, wrap &turn.
Subtle difference, but is this what you mean?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you’re only knitting to 1 stitch before the wrapped stitch before you work your wrap + turns! To achieve the correct distribution of wrapped stitches, you’ll just need to stop knitting one stitch earlier (so that there are 2 normal stitches before the previously wrapped stitch) and then wrap + turn on that one (the 2nd normal stitch, which will now be turned into a wrapped stitch). That will make sure that you have 1 normal stitch between each wrapped stitch!
All the best,
Lili
I have done wrap and turns before – just not remembering how it applies to reading a pattern could you do a you tube tutorial on the first few rows?
or actually maybe I would understand which stitch to wrap if you provide a chart? I am looking forward to buying yarn to do this just want to make sure I know I can do the pattern
Hi Julia,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m afraid we do not have the time and resources to create a tutorial or chart specific to this pattern. We’re sorry for the inconvenience, but are eager to help you understand the pattern still! Can you let me know what you’re wondering about in terms of this technique and how it applies to the pattern? Once I have a sense of what’s giving you trouble, I can absolutely help clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I need help. I used the needle indicated in the pattern and my stitch and row count match, but I end up with only using 2 skeins and my width is 10 inches and my length is 73 inches.
Hi Debra,
I’m sorry to hear that your wrap didn’t turn out as expected! It sounds like you may have knit too few rows, which was likely caused by working the wrap + turns with too many stitches in between them. In this pattern, you’ll knit to 2 stitches before the previously wrapped stitch and then make the new wrap + turn on that 2nd stitch. This means that you should only have 1 normal (unwrapped) stitch between wrapped stitches, as you continue repeating Row 3.
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili
I understand that there will always be 400 stitches on my needle and at the end of the pattern there will only be four stitches between wraps. The part that I am having trouble with are the last three lines of instructions. The “knit to the end of the row” means knit all 400 stitches, right? And the bind off also means bind off 400 stitches, right? In advance, thanks for the clarification.
Hi Naomi,
Thanks for reaching out! There are actually two rows on which you will “knit to end of row,” and they actually differ as to how many stitches you work. On Next Short Row (the first of the two), you will already be located at the center of the wrap. So on this short row, you will knit the remaining stitches all the way to the end of the row (but it will only be about half of the total 400). Then, on Next Row (the second one), you will be knitting all 400 stitches, since you begin at the very beginning of the row and end at the end! And the bind-off is also over all 400. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
If I knit this pattern using Morning yarn and a size 6 needle, would I need to make any adjustment to the number of stitches for the cast on? Thanks so much!
Hi Debora,
Thanks for reaching out. Your gauge will likely be larger than the gauge of the pattern when using Morning, so you likely will need to adjust the cast-on!
To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 4. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
What would be the best bind off stitch for this?
I have just used a regular bind off and the bind off is tighter / less stretchy than the knit, resulting in a “baggy” shawl, with the lower point curling up because it will not sit flat 🙁 🙁
Frustrating because now I will need to unpick the whole bind off and redo with a yarn join
Hi Lucy,
Thanks for reaching out. I would recommend working a normal bind-off, but with a larger needle size! That way, you’ll be able to match the tension between the main shawl and the bind-off edge, so it won’t be as “baggy.” Also, wet blocking the finished project will help minimize any curling!
All the best,
Lili
I, too, struggled with the instructions at first until I discovered a YouTube video by Unapologetic Knitter: Wrap & Turn Garter Stitch. I also started using removable stitch markers in front of each wrap & turn. It’s a little fiddly but keeps me from wondering whether or not the stitch I’m looking at is actually the previous w& t. Am well into the 3rd skein so rows are beginning to fly!
Hi Karen, stitch markers helped me too! I would have been very confused without them 🙂
Hi Lily. Two (probably silly) questions. (1) what do you mean when you say wrap (vs unwrapped) stitch? Also I have read through all the comment and I thought that each short row resulted in a decrease of a stitch. Shout-out are decreasing until you get to 4 rows but then another post suggested we always have 400 stitches. Can you tell me which is correct. Thanks
Hi Leslie,
No such thing as a silly question! A wrapped stitch is one that you’ve worked a wrap + turn around on one of the short rows. This results in a loop of yarn forming horizontally around the stitch–that loop is the “wrap,” and the stitch that it’s wrapped around is the “wrapped stitch”! All other stitches that don’t have a wrap around them are “unwrapped” or “normal.”
In answer to your other question, short rows do not decrease any stitches! All you’re doing is working partway through a row, turning your work (and wrapping the stitch!), and then working back in the other direction. Because of that, you’ll always have 400 stitches!
All the best,
Lili
Hi — Would it work to make this shawl using Nigh? If yes, your advice on ho much to order? And, while I have you, is there another scarf or shawl pattern that you think would work well for Nigh? Many thanks!
Hi Sally,
Thank you for your question! This wrap would be fabulous in Nigh DK! I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch just to double check that you’re getting gauge and to see if you need to adjust your needle size at all. If you’re getting gauge, you would need 5 skeins of Nigh DK to make this project! The Keyhole Scarf would also be absolutely gorgeous in Nigh DK… So soft and cozy! I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Many thanks for great advice!
Hi Sally,
You’re very welcome! Happy knitting! 🙂
All the best,
Cat