Arched Gusset Mittens In Knitting Yarn
Our Arched Gusset Mittens are quick and fun to make, and they take care of loved ones in ways both practical and arcane. If palmistry is your thing, the distinctive lifeline (AKA “arched gusset”) is sure to provide good health and vitality, while our super cozy new Knitting Yarn does the job of keeping hands toasty!
Knitting Yarn is a light worsted (DK) weight, made of 100% merino wool from New Zealand. It has a pleasant toothiness, a squishy feel, and a wonderfully even hand, letting the subtle details of these pretty mitts shine.
It is available in twenty gently heathered colors, including the serene palette of blues we used here: Blue Whale, Flax Flower Blue, and Soft Sky (below, from top to bottom).
Knitting Yarn comes in a big, cushy ball so you can cast on ASAP, and it only takes one ball to knit up a pair of Arched Gusset Mittens, in any size from little kid to big adult!
This wonderful yarn is super fun to knit, sturdy, and affordable… Mittens for everyone and may they have long and healthy lives!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoArchedGussetMittens, and #PurlSohoKnittingYarn. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 ball of Purl Soho’s Knitting Yarn, 100% merino wool. Each ball is 219 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 100 (125, 140, 180, 205) yards required. We used the colors Soft Sky, Flax Flower Blue, and Blue Whale.
- A set of US 5 (3.75 mm) double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holder or scrap yarn
GAUGE
22 stitches and 28 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
Kid (Adult Small, Adult Medium, Adult Large, Adult X-Large)
- Finished Circumference at Palm: 5¾ (6½,7¼, 8, 8¾) inches, comfortably stretching 2 inches
- Finished Length from Cuff to Tip: 8½ (9¾, 10¼, 11½, 12¼) inches, with instructions to modify
SAMPLES: The Soft Sky mittens are Kid size, the Flax Flower Blue mittens are Adult Small, and the Blue Whale mittens are Adult Medium.
PATTERN
CUFF
Cast on 31 (35, 39, 43, 47) stitches, distributing them onto 3 double pointed needles. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place a unique marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 2 (2¼, 2½, 3, 3) inches from cast-on edge.
THUMB GUSSET
RIGHT MITTEN ONLY
Set-Up Round: K15 (17, 17, 19, 19), place marker (pm), knit to end of round.
Round 1: Knit to marker, slip marker (sm), make 1 left, knit to end of round. [1 stitch increased]
Repeat Round 1 fourteen (16, 16, 18, 18) more times. [46 (52, 56, 62, 66) stitches]
Next Round: K14 (16, 16, 18, 18), place previous 13 (15, 15, 17, 17) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn, k1, remove marker, knit to end of round. [33 (37, 41, 45, 49) stitches remain]
Next Round: Slip slip knit (ssk), joining first stitch of Gusset to last stitch of Gusset, knit to end of round. [32 (36, 40, 44, 48) stitches remain]
LEFT MITTEN ONLY
UPDATE December 6, 2022: We’ve changed the wording of the Set-Up Round to be a bit clearer, right below. Don’t worry, the outcome is still the same!
Set-Up Round: K17 (19, 23, 25, 29), pm, knit to end of round.
Round 1: Knit to marker, make 1 right, sm, knit to end of round. [1 stitch increased]
Repeat Round 1 fourteen (16, 16, 18, 18) more times. [46 (52, 56, 62, 66) stitches]
Next Round: Slip previous 13 (15, 15, 17, 17) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn, knit to marker, sm, slip next stitch purlwise onto right needle, remove end-of-round marker, replace slipped stitch back to left needle, replace remaining marker with end-of-round marker. [33, (37, 41, 45, 49) stitches remain]
Next Round: Knit two together (k2tog), joining first stitch of Gusset to first stitch after Gusset, knit to end of round. [32 (36, 40, 44, 48) stitches remain]
PALM
Work in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until piece measures 3 (3½, 3¾, 4, 4½) inches from end of Thumb Gusset, or until ⅞ (1, 1⅛, 1¼, 1⅜) inches from desired finished length.
MITTEN TOP
Set-Up Round: K12 (13, 15, 16, 18), pm, k4 (5, 5, 6, 6), pm, k5 (6, 6, 7, 7), pm, knit to end of round.
Round 1: Knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, sm, knit to next marker, sm, knit to next marker, sm, ssk, knit to end of round. [2 stitches decreased]
Round 2: K1, k2tog, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, sm, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, ssk, sm, k1, k2tog, knit to next marker, sm, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before end of round, ssk. [6 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 two (2, 3, 3, 4) more times, removing markers on the last round. [8 (12, 8, 12, 8) stitches remain]
SIZES ADULT SMALL + LARGE ONLY
Next Round: K1, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, ssk, k1. [8 stitches remain]
ALL SIZES
Cut yarn and thread it through remaining stitches.
THUMB
Slip 13 (15, 15, 17, 17) on-hold stitches onto 3 double pointed needles.
Hold mitten so thumbhole is on the left and join yarn to front needle.
Knit all 13 (15, 15, 17, 17) stitches, and before joining in the round, pick up 1 stitch from base of Thumb. [14 (16, 16, 18, 18) stitches]
Place marker and join for working in the round.
Knit until piece measures 1¾ (2, 2, 2¼, 2¼) inches from base of Thumb or until just shy of desired finished length.
Next Round: *K2tog, repeat from * to end of round. [7 (8, 8, 9, 9) stitches remain]
Cut yarn and thread it through remaining stitches.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and gently wet block.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I don’t understand the right gusset instruction
SM adult KNIT 16…place previous 15 stitches on hold
Hi Joanne,
Thanks for reaching out. These instructions mean to place the 15 stitches you just knit (the first 15 stitches on the right-hand needle) onto scrap yarn or a stitch holder! You’ll save these for the thumb, once it’s time to knit that. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Yes! This was very confusing. Maybe say “ put THOSE stitches on a holder.
Hi There,
I wanted to thank you for the arched gusset mitten pattern. I have had to unpick so many mittens during this pre-holiday knitting frenzy.
The mittens look great and the arching makes them so unusual.
Thanks again,
Victoria (London, UK)
Hi, when you say kid’s size, what ages: toddler or older? thanks!
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out. I believe that the Kid size was designed for older than toddler age, but the best way to find out if this size will fit is to look at the measurements! The Kid size has a palm circumference of 5.75 inches (comfortably stretching up to 2 inches) and a length from cuff to tip of 8.5 inches. If you measure the recipient’s hand and compare it to these measurements, that should provide you with a good sense of the fit of this size!
All the best,
Lili
Could these be knit two at a time with magic loop?
Hi Ellen!
Thank you for writing in! While these mittens can certainly be knit using Magic Loop, we recommend making them one at a time. Knitting these one at a time will help make it easier to navigate the different directions for the Left and Right mittens.
I hope this is helpful!
All the best,
Margaret
I actually did these two at a time with magic loop. There was a learning curve, ha ha . It did take a couple of time , but we’ll worth it they are so cool/ warm and love the arch design. Definitely making more. Thank you for the pattern
Can I do these on curcular needles using magic loop?
Hi Diane!
Thank you for getting in touch with us. Yes, you can definitely knit these on circular needles using Magic Loop! We recommend knitting these mittens one at a time (instead of two at a time) when using Magic Loop, to more easily navigate the differing directions for the Left and Right mittens.
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
what is the color of the deepest blue glove on left. says Blue Whale but pic color is much darker than the swatch shown.
Hi Gabriel!
Thank you for pointing this out to us! The color of the deepest blue mittens on the far left of the horizontal photo is indeed Blue Whale. We agree these mittens do look darker than the ball of yarn itself, so our photo team is taking a closer look at this! We appreciate you bringing this discrepancy to our attention and hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Margaret
Just wanted to say that my last order from Purl Soho included one ball of Blue Whale “Knitting Yarn” for a small project like these mittens, and that color is gorgeous! I’m singing its praises to my knitting friends. Silly me, I even enjoy just gazing at the Blue Whale ball with my morning coffee.
What is the secret for keeping the stockinet stitching at the wrist from flipping up? Could I substitute ribbing for the first 2 inches?
Thanks so much!
Hi Joan!
Thank you for your question. Stockinette stitch naturally curls up on itself, so to help smooth the curl, we suggest blocking your mittens after you are finished knitting them. This process helps the fibers relax into their new shape and therefore unroll the curl. Alternatively, you can certainly add some ribbing at the cuff of the mitten like you mentioned! Ribbing is a great way to eliminate stockinette curling, and we’re excited to see your custom mittens!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you for a lovely minimalist pattern. I love the simplicity and beauty of the arch! Do you think I would be able to turn these into fingerless gloves with a rib (🤔🧐 maybe) or simple cast off edge near the fingertips. I think I can figure that part out, but I’m unsure about the thumb. I was also thinking I may need to size down because they look quite roomy. Thanking you in advance for your thoughts on the above.
Kind regards
Hi Janette!
Thank you for your post! We’re so glad to hear these mittens caught your eye. For a fingerless glove, I would suggest binding off after the PALM section, or until your glove reaches your desired length. As for the thumb, you can follow the pattern as written, binding off before “Next Round” so as to avoid decreasing for the tip of the thumb. And finally, to determine your size for the best fit, these mittens do allow up to 2″ of stretch, so I would suggest knitting your true size, or sizing down if you are between sizes!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you so much Margaret for confirming my thoughts on the necessary adaptions required.
Kind regards
You’re very welcome, Janette!
Happy knitting,
Margaret
Hello,
My palm measures a little over 7 1/4. Should I go with Adult Medium (as you say it stretches comfortably 2 in.) or should I go with Adult Large.
Thanks!
Hi Gwen!
Thank you for reaching out. I would suggest knitting an Adult Medium for your palm size, as these will stretch if needed for a fit that is still comfortable. You can also aggressively block these to help redistribute some of the slack of the length to the width of the mitten, should you need it!
I hope this helps, and happy mitten knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi, Are the DP needles 6-inch or 8-inch? Thanks!
Hi Judy!
Thank you for writing in. You can use either length of DPNs for these mittens, or the length needed to comfortably accommodate your stitches. Since these mittens are worked over a smaller amount of stitches, you should be just fine to use 6″ DPNs, and this length may also be easier to work with at a smaller stitch count, too, but either length will work!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
These mitts look so nice and elegant!
What length(s) of circulars could you recommend? It depends of the size you knit, but would 40 cm be too long?
Hi Elsje!
Thank you so much! We recommend using Double Pointed Needles (either 6″ or 8″ DPNs) or a long circular needle (40″+) for a Magic Loop method. Alternatively, you could try using a 10″ circular needle! A 16″ (40 cm) circular needle would be too long to keep the small number of stitches at a workable tension, however a 10″ circular needle might be just the perfect length!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Just knitted these last night and wondered why after completing the gusset stitches for the left mitten you do a row knitting the last gusset and first palm stitch together resulting in one less stitch for the palm rows than you had for the right mitten. That decrease row didn’t exist for the right mitten.
Was that an error? Unusual to have a different number of stitches for the hand/palm
Hi Lea,
Thank you for your question. We’re so glad to hear you’ve already made a pair of these mittens! For both the left and the right mittens in this pattern, there is a decrease to join the front and back palm stitches after putting the thumb stitches on hold. The right mitten uses a slip slip knit, and the left mitten uses a knit 2 together to join the palm in the round again!
I hope this helps clarify things, and we hope you enjoy your new mittens, too!
All the best,
Margaret
Thanks Margaret! I think the line that had that decrease had been cut off when I printed out the pattern originally. Thanks for pointing it out!
Lea
You are very welcome, Lea!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello. I just printed the mitten pattern today, September 21, 2022. I also ordered a ball of your beautiful yarn. This is the first time I’ve dealt with Purl Soho and I am very impressed with your and the caring responses to knitters’ questions. I look forward to getting my yarn soon and knitting my mittens.
Hi Kate!
Thank you so much for your lovely post. We’re very glad to hear you’ve decided to add Purl Soho to your knitting bag! We hope you enjoy knitting these mittens, and we can’t wait to hear your thoughts on our newest yarn!
All the best,
Margaret
I love this pattern, but I use circulars normally instead of dpns. Could this be altered to add one stitch to cast on to allow use of circular needles? (or would that even be necessary)
Thanks!!
Hi Mary!
Thank you for your question. If you wanted to knit these mittens on circular needles, I would suggest using the Magic Loop method on a longer circular needle! You would not need to add or subtract any stitches to work these mittens with Magic Loop.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
ok, maybe this really is a stupid question, but how do you put a stitch marker on double pointed needles? I find it very hard to work with one, and is it really necessary or can you use the “tail” as a visual for your starting point?
Hi Gabriel!
Thank you for reaching out. We’re happy to help with any question, so not to worry! When placing the beginning of round marker on double pointed needles, I usually place it after casting on and knitting one row. I like to readjust my stitches on my needles after the first row so that the beginning of round marker can be centered on one needle, and so that the stitch marker can have stitches on either side of it to keep it in place!
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Love mitten pattern could you use a worsted yarn a 7needle and same number of stitches
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for your post! This pattern’s gauge works best with a dk or light worsted weight yarn, however if you are interested in a worsted weight mitten pattern, I recommend checking out our Essential Hat, Mitten, and Hand Warmers pattern.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Great mittens it would be nice to have a video
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for your suggestion! At the moment, we do not have the time and resources to create a video for the whole pattern, but we do a already have some video tutorials for specific techniques that are used in it. You can find all of our tutorials on this page. Hope that helps!
All the best,
Lili
I want to make these, can I use circular needles without doing magic loop. Is that possible. I never made mittens before. I get frustrated with dpn.
Hi Debbie,
Thank you for your interest in these mittens! While you could make the larger sizes of these mittens on a pair of 10″ circular needles, it is easiest to make any size using Magic Loop if you would like to use a circular needle. We would be happy to demonstrate how to use Magic Loop for your mittens over a free 1-on-1 Project Help Zoom, or you can check out our Magic Loop tutorial right here!
All the best,
Margaret
I’m afraid I’m confused while knitting the left mitten.
I have 56 stitches and am at the start of my next round.
I slip the last 15 stitches (from my last row) to scrap yarn? Then there’s no knitting to get to my end of round marker, and I am far from the second marker I placed (where I made one R 17 times).
Can you please help?
Great pattern, lovely yarn, quick knit … but I am stuck! Thanks.
Hi Erin,
Thank you for reaching out, though we’re so sorry to hear you hit a stopping point in your mitten! When it comes time to put the thumb stitches on hold. you will be slipping the previous 15 stitches before your beginning of round marker onto scrap yarn for the thumb, just like you mentioned. This way, your working yarn is still attached to the most recent stitch before the beginning of round marker, ready for you to continue on in the row!
After slipping your beginning of round marker, you will knit around to your M1R reference marker, slip that marker, and slip the last remaining stitch after the M1R marker to your right needle. Then, remove the beginning-of-round marker, slip the slipped stitch back to your left needle, and then replace the M1R reference marker with your beginning-of-round marker on your right needle. This way, you will have a new beginning-of-round starting point, with one stitch on either side of the on-hold thumb stitches at the very beginning of your next row for the k2tog!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi! LOVE the pattern but am having the same struggle, sorry…
I can’t seem to sort out the BORm in relation to the working stitch after putting gusset sts on hold. I have the required 62 sts (for L) and have knitted to the end of the row as directed by the Round 1 instruction: “…knit to end of round. {1 stitch increased}”.
Next instruction is: “Next Round: Knit (18) sts then place (17) of those onto scrap yarn. Are these 18 sts BEYOND the BORm, or are we not meant to actually knit to the end of the round & therefore reaching the BORm after our final M1L?
Thank you! : )
Hi Lea,
Thanks for reaching out. After knitting the first 18 stitches of Next Round, you will place the 17 previous stitches onto scrap yarn! These are the stitches that you just knit, so you will end up with this order, starting from the BOR marker: BOR marker, 1 live knit stitch, 17 stitches on hold, then the rest of the live stitches. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Like others I am also at a loss with the left mitten – even after scrutinizing your previous responses. I understand that you slip the previous 15 (med) stitches from the end of the last round onto a scrap of yarn, then knit to the marker – for a medium that would be 23 stitches to the gusset marker – sm, slip next stitch purlwise and remove end of round marker. But, how can you be at the end of round marker already? You should have 18 stitches before you reach the end of round marker. What am I missing?
Hi Linda,
I can absolutely try to clarify this part of the pattern further! It may help to start explaining this by going way back to when you first place the gusset stitch marker. On the Set-Up Round, you’ve placed this stitch marker 16 stitches (for the Adult Medium) from the end of the round. This number remains consistent throughout all the increases! You should always have 16 stitches between the gusset marker and the end-of-round marker.
Once you’ve completed all the increase stitches and have reached the beginning of Next Round, you should have 40 stitches, then the gusset marker, and then those original 16 stitches, and finally the end-of-round marker. On Next Round, you begin by slipping the final 15 stitches onto scrap yarn. This means that you’re left with this order of stitches: 40 stitches, gusset marker, 1 single stitch, 15 stitches on scrap yarn, end-of-round marker.
Working Next Round, you begin by knitting these first 40 stitches to reach the gusset marker. Then, you slip the gusset marker and slip that 1 remaining live stitch onto your right needle. Then, you’ll be able to remove the end-of-round marker, slip the 1 single stitch onto your left needle, and replace the gusset marker with the end-of-round marker. At this point, you’ll be in position to begin the next “Next Round”!
I hope this helps clarify things! Because you’re only noticing 23 stitches between the end-of-round marker and the gusset marker, instead of 40, it sounds as if you’ve been working your increases on the incorrect side of the stitch marker. For the increase rounds in the Left Mitten, you knit to the gusset marker and work the increase before slipping the stitch marker. This ensures that your increased stitches all lean to the right, creating a thumb that leans to the left!
It’s important to note that this is different from what you’ve done for the Right Mitten. For that mitten, you worked the increase stitch after slipping the gusset marker, which created a thumb that leaned to the right. But for the Left Mitten, it’s the opposite, as I described above!
All the best,
Lili
That was exactly it! I was adding stitches after the marker – not before. THANK YOU.
Hi Linda,
No problem, we’re so glad that Lili was able to help you! Have a great rest of your day.
All the best,
The CS Team
Hi- I have the same issue here. So what should I do now since I have an extra 3 stitches in between the gusset marker and stitch marker. Do I need to undo all the previous rounds? Thank you!
Hi Lauren,
We are sorry that this caused some confusion! We do recommend pulling back to the point where you have the correct stitch count. I would say to do this slowly as to not lose stitches along the way. If you need any additional help along the way, please do not hesitate to reach out!
Warmly,
Gavriella
Thank you so much for the left mitten explanation. I was having the same problem. I’m good to go now! : ))
I’ve finished my mittens and am less than satisfied with the picking up of one stitch at the base of the thumb. There must be a better way. I have worked a couple of stitches in to make the hole less noticeable, but I’m still not happy with my finished product.
Hi Mary Jane,
Thanks for writing in. I’m sorry to hear that your mittens didn’t come out as expected though! I’d be happy to give you some options that will help make the thumb join a bit neater.
First, I’d recommend evening out the tension of the stitches at that location. It is natural for some of these stitches to be looser than others, so to tighten up the loose ones, you can gently tug at one of the legs, and then keep doing that along the round to evenly distribute the extra length.
Another option would be to use duplicate stitch on the inside of the mitten to cover up the hole. This method is invisible from the outside of the mitten, and you can use the yarn tail from when you began the thumb to do the duplicate stitching!
One more thing, which isn’t helpful at this point, but will be on future mittens, is that you can pick up additional stitches at the base of the thumb when you begin it and then decrease these away on the next round. In particular, I’d suggest picking up 3 stitches (where the pattern tells you to pick up 1), and then work a centered decrease on the first round.
I hope that these suggestions give you options for your mittens moving forward!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for clarifying the instructions for the left mitten gusset. I just finished and I’m anticipating I’ll have the same issue with picking up a single stitch from the base of the thumb. I attempted a duplicate stitch on the right mitten, but I’m not very satisfied with the results. I will try your 3rd suggestion. Can you explain what you mean by doing a centered decrease on the next round? It seems that there would be some bulkiness at the base of the thumb. I’m enjoying knitting these mittens – great last minute Christmas gifts! Thanks!
You’re very welcome, Kathy! There will be a tiny, tiny bit of bulkiness at the base of the thumb with that method, but I do this for most of my mittens, and it doesn’t cause any discomfort. I think it’s definitely the best option, if you’re not completely happy with the duplicate stitch results!
All the best,
Lili
Finished these in a couple of days for a last minute gift. Love the minimalistic look! Thinking ahead to Hanukkah. 🙂
It would be nice to know when you got to the top of the mitten how many stitches have to be on the needles for all sizes
I have made your mitts several times, kept one pair, given a few away and even repaired one set, and I love your pattern. The appearance of the thumbs is what drew me to the pattern initially. I also appreciate the density because they really are warm! I have made different sizes with heavier or lighter wool to get larger mitts, added cuffs, and modified in other ways. This note is just a thank you.
I meant when it came to the dec round at the top
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out. I like that suggestion, and I will certainly pass it along to our design team so that they can take it into account when publishing future patterns! In the meantime, I’d be happy to help with the math to figure it out for whichever size you’re making. If you’d like that, please just let me know what size you’re making and what round of the pattern you’re on. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I’m looking forward to trying out this pattern. Where do you take the palm measurement? Does it include the thumb? TIA.
Rebecca
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for checking! The Palm Circumference measurement is taken around the widest part of your palm (usually around the knuckles), and it does not include the thumb. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, Lili!,
Rebecca
I need some help with placing markers for the mitten top. I am making an adult medium and have 40 stitches. My markers for stitches begin at the thumb. So if I count 15 and place a marker and then 5 and place marker and then 6 and place a marker, that counts for 26 stitches. I would have 14 stitches left. Seems like this is off center and not balanced. All the decreases take place based on those markets but they are not symmetrical. Am I reading this wrong? Help!
Hi Elise,
Thanks for reaching out. I can confirm that the pattern is correct as written, and that your stitch markers should be asymmetrical at this point! On Round 1 of the MITTEN TOP, you will decrease only 2 stitches, evening out the stitch counts between them. Then, on Round 2, you will decrease 6 stitches, which makes the stitch counts uneven again. But then they’ll get evened out again by the next repeat of Round 1, and so on! It ends up averaging out to a balanced decrease to the top (8 stitches over the course of 2 rounds). Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
This is probably very silly, but I’m wondering whether the arched gusset is meant to show on the inside or outside of the hand. I can’t tell from the photos.
Norma
Hi Norma,
The arched gusset is meant to show on the inside of your hand! The design is meant to recall the “lifeline” on your palm. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Makes perfect sense. Thanks Lili.
I’m struggling with “Repeat Round 1 fourteen (16, 16, 18, 18) more times. [46 (52, 56, 62, 66) stitches]”. There is no bar in that space to m1L when the previous row has a m1L there … if that makes sense.
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for reaching out. That’s a great question! You’re right, the space between stitches on the round right after your previous increase will look a bit different than it would with a round or two of knitting in between. But you’ll still be able to do another increase stitch here! There should still be a strand of yarn going across the back of the work, even though they look different than the typical “bar.” This is what you’ll work the next m1L into!
If you’re still having trouble locating this, I’d recommend sending over a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com. We’ll be able to help you out further from there!
All the best,
Lili
I’m struggling to get the right gauge for the pattern, even using Knitting Yarn. When I knit on size 5s, I’m at 18 stitches x 26 rows; on size 4, I’m at 19.5 x 28 rows. It seems like going down another size needle would get me the right stitch gauge, but I feel like it will knit too densely. What would you recommend?
Hi Olivia,
Thanks for reaching out. I understand firsthand the struggles of achieving gauge for a pattern! This pattern was definitely meant to have a pretty dense fabric at 22 stitches in 4 inches, since that adds a lot of warmth to the mittens. I’d recommend giving the even smaller needles a try to see where they get you!
Also, have you blocked your swatches yet? Our gauge measurements were taken after blocking, since we blocked the final mitten samples. If you’re planning on blocking your own mittens, I’d highly recommend blocking your swatches as well, before taking measurements, since your measurements will be accurate to the finished mittens that way. You can also use blocking to even out stitch and row gauge discrepancies.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
VERY helpful, thanks so much!! I did block both swatches and was surprised they weren’t hitting the gauge. I’ll try blocking one more time and see what happens before casting on with my itty bitty needles!
I am confused about the left thumb stitches. What does it mean to put the previous 15 stitches on scarp yarn. Are these the 15 stitches I just knit just prior to starting a new row?
Hi Kay,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes! These previous 15 stitches are the 15 you just knit, which are the last 15 stitches you knit on the previous row. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I’ve knit these twice but had to correct the left thumb gusset on the fly, so I wonder if the left mitten thumb gusset instructions are missing a step? After repeating the m1r increases, it says “Next round: Slip previous 13 (etc) onto scrap yarn.” Should it say “Next round K 14 (etc), THEN “Slip previous 13 (etc) onto scrap yarn…” as with the Right gusset instructions? Without that first step of setting up/knitting across the stitches to be slipped onto stitch holder, the thumb will be in the wrong place…
Hi Katherine,
Thanks for reaching out. I can confirm that the instructions for the Left Mitten are correct as written! The reason that they are different is due to the difference in thumb placement. Since each mitten is meant to fit a different hand, the thumb on the Left Mitten is a mirror-image of the one on the Right Mitten, not an exact duplicate. So instead of knitting the first few stitches on Next Round and then slipping them onto scrap yarn as you did for the Right Mitten, you will slip the final stitches of the previous round onto scrap yarn and then proceed with Next Round!
I hope this helps clarify things, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
SSK row I can’t wrap my brain around.
Are the gusset stitches on the stitch holder ? If so how do I ssk ? I hope I have made myself clear. 🤔I only am using 2 needles and the stitch holder at this point. Thanks.
Kathleen
Hi Kathleen,
I’m sorry to hear that this part of the pattern is confusing! At this point, the stitches for the THUMB are what’s on the stitch holder. All the rest of the stitches (including the ones you increased in the GUSSET section) will be used for the PALM.
The stitches that you are working the ssk with are actually the live stitches on either side of the on-hold stitches! You’ll need to kind of bunch the on-hold stitches together so that they take up less space to move these two live stitches right next to each other (you may actually want to put them on scrap yarn instead, since that’s more malleable than a stitch holder). Then, you can work an ssk as normal with these two stitches, which joins the first live stitch to the last live stitch!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for a prompt answer.
One more thing though. Why am I on two needles. I can’t work in the round on only two
Hi Kathleen,
I’d recommend shifting your stitches around on the DPNs at this point in the pattern! Once you get them onto three needles as evenly as possible, you can start knitting the palm.
All the best,
Lili
I’m a novice knitter. I’m stuck here as well
Right mitten-thumb gusset-last line
My 2 stitches that would appear to be the correct ones to pull the thumb together in an ssk stitch are on different needles.
One stitch is in the back needle and one on the front. I’m not sure how to set up the ssk stitch. Thanks for your patience.
Hi Millie,
Thanks for writing in! I’d recommend slipping one of those stitches to the other needle so that they can be right next to each other. Then you’ll be able to work the ssk as normal!
All the best,
Lili
I’ve made this lovely pattern twice. Even the second time, a few months after the first, I found the left mitten instructions confusing, and it was because I had forgotten to PM 16 sts before the END of the round. I’m amazed that Purl Soho hasn’t simply updated the pattern with some of the excellent clarifications given here by Margaret and Lili, instead of having to have staffers continually answer this same query here. Purl Soho, we knitters love you, your yarn and your patterns! As a web designer/publisher, I know that it’s a pretty trivial matter to overwrite a file with a revision, so I hope this can be done for future knitters to enjoy this pattern.
Hi Paula,
Thank you so much for reaching out and sharing your thoughts on this pattern! I’m sorry to hear that the instructions for the Left Mitten GUSSET were confusing, though I’m glad that my and Margaret’s advice has been helpful along the way. I’ve passed your concerns along to our design team who will look into updating the pattern to improve the clarity!
All the best,
Lili
I have a question regarding where you do the increase on the right mitten for the gusset. Do you knit to the 2nd marker you placed and do the increase after slipping that marker? Meaning the increase is not done at the end of round marker. Please advise and these mittens are beautiful!
Hi Monica,
Thanks for reaching out. For both the Right and Left mittens, the increase is done beside the 2nd stitch marker (not the end-of-round marker)! For the Right mitten, you will work a m1L after slipping this marker, but for the Left mitten you will work a m1R before slipping this marker. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi. I’m loving this knit. It’s quick, and it is my gift pattern this year, so I’m making a lot of them.
Every pattern is an opportunity to learn, so I’m hoping you can help me understand why the decrease rows are done the way they are. Not the what – I’ve successfully knitted several of these. I want to understand the why? Why the alternating decrease rows instead of just decreasing by four 6 times? Why the interleaving of k2tog and ssk?
Thank you for your help!
George
Hi George,
Thanks for your comment! We’re so happy that you’re enjoying this pattern! Alternating decrease rows between decreasing by 2 and 6 provides a more gentle tapering effect to the palm of the mitten and ensures that it’s long enough to comfortably fit that part of the hand! And SSK and K2Tog decreases both lean in different directions; K2Togs lean to the right whereas SSKs lean to the left, so using them in conjunction with each other creates a very symmetrical look. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Oh! These mittens are so yummy in the Knitting Yarn!! I’ve made several pairs for Christmas gifts. A great project for the long train ride to work and back. I get a little lost at the mitten top section if I’m not paying close attention to the pattern, so I’ve had to frog a couple mits back down to the palm section and start over. I thought I saw a note from Purl Soho that the pattern was recently revised to something simpler to follow, but I don’t see it now. Has the pattern been revised? It may not be true for everyone, but without being too conservative with my cast-ons and cuts, I was able to get 2 pair of adult small out of one ball of yarn with a generous amount left over. Good to know. I’m thinking about trying to add a rib to the first inch of the cuff – are there any tips to ribbing with an odd number of cast-on stitches? Or perhaps I just cast-on one less stitch, knit my ribbing, then increase 1 before going into the rest of the pattern. Either way, thanks for such a fun pattern!
Hi Margrethe,
We’re so happy to hear that you’ve been enjoying this pattern! I love the idea to add ribbing to the cuff, and you have exactly the right idea. I’d recommend casting on 1 fewer stitch and increasing by 1 once you finish the ribbing. Let us know how it goes if you try this!
All the best,
Lili
I’ve just put my right thumb gusset on scrap yarn, k1 and knit to the end of round and only have 44 stitches. I’m suppose to have 45. I’ve followed the instructions correctly and knit the correct numbers as stated. Then I compare the picture with mine and the thumb is on the opposite side of the arched line. I’m making the adult large size.
Hi Nadine,
Thanks for reaching out, although I’m sorry to hear that you’ve run into a stopping point in your project! Have you double checked how many stitches you put on hold for the thumb? It’s possible that you may have put 1 extra one on hold! In the pattern, for the Adult Large size, you begin Next Round by knitting 18 stitches, but then you only put 17 of these on scrap yarn. So I just want to check to see if you have 17, and not 18, stitches on scrap yarn at this point!
Regarding the thumb placement, we often see this problem occur when the increases are worked on the incorrect side of the stitch marker. For the increase rounds in the Right Mitten, you knit to the gusset marker and slip the stitch marker before working the increase. This ensures that your increased stitches all lean to the left, creating a thumb that leans to the right!
I hope this helps clear things up, but if you’re still unsure of how to proceed, I’d recommend sending a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can take a closer look at your mitten!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks, Lili, for responding so quickly. I found why my thumb was on the wrong side of the arch. I was going forward and placing stitches for the thumb on a holder, instead of placing previous stitches on a holder. By doing this, it also cleared up the problem with the 45 stitches I needed at the end of the round. Happy Holidays!
You’re very welcome, Nadine!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
I’m making adult small and I’m on the left mitten with my 52 stitches.
1rst needle from bor 20 st ….19 to marker +1
2nd needle 16 st
3 rd needle 16 st
I’ve read the comments and directions and I’m so sorry but I’m still stuck on Next Round ….slip previous 15… so if I slip previous 15 my first of those is my live stitch. I moved the live stitch to the left and put the previous 15 on scrap but I just can’t get it. I’m wearing the right one trying to sort this out.
I hope you can help me.
Linda
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out. The Left mitten is a bit different from the Right one! After you’re repeated Round 1 (Increase Round) 16 more times, you should have the following stitches on your needles, in order: Beginning-of-round marker, 36 stitches between the BOR and the gusset marker, then the gusset marker, and finally 16 stitches between the gusset marker and the BOR.
When you begin Next Round, your needle tips will be at the BOR. You’ll begin by slipping the 15 previous stitches onto scrap yarn. These stitches are the 15 stitches you just knit as you were finishing up the final repeat of Round 1. Once you do this, you will knit across all 36 stitches between the BOR and the gusset marker. Once you reach the gusset marker, you will have only 1 live stitch left between it and the BOR, and it will currently be on your left needle. Slip this 1 live stitch onto your right needle (ignoring the stitches on scrap yarn) and remove the BOR. Then, slip this same live stitch back onto the left needle, and replace the gusset marker with the BOR.
Then you’ll be right in position to begin the following Next Round with a k2tog! I hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
The yarn I ordered just arrived today, so I’m anxious to start my first pair of mittens. I make it a practice to read all the comments, which sometimes clarifies things ahead of time.
I recently purchased a set of FlexiFlips by addi from a shop that was closing out its yarn section. They’re “straights” with a flexible section in the middle much like circular needles (which I love!). I’m thinking of trying these for the mittens. I can easily work with DPNs, but I don’t feel comfortable with the “magic loop”, so I thought these might be a good alternative. What do you think?
Thanks for all your great yarn (I have LOTS!) and great patterns (I have lots of patterns also).
Angela Whitaker
Hi Angela,
FlexiFlips will work great for this pattern! I haven’t used them myself yet, but I know a few knitters who have, and they swear by them!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much for this beautiful pattern. I have made one set and all the other grandchildren want one as well…busy times ahead! My problem is that my knitting is not smooth. Is this because I’m stretching the work on the dpn’s? It seems to be at intervals around the diameter of the cuff. I have pulled out the work so many times that I could have finished 5 pairs but am only on the second. You advice would be much appreciated!
Thank you
Tina
Hi Tina,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you’re encountering “laddering,” which is unfortunately a common effect of DPNs, frustrating as it is! Laddering is caused by the uneven tension between each needle, but there are solutions!
One way to pretty much get rid of laddering is to shift the stitches around on your DPNs after every couple rounds. This displaces the junctions between needles, so that they fall between different stitches along the length of the sleeve, thus distributing the uneven tension so that it doesn’t all fall in one column.
Another option is to use the magic loop technique instead of using DPNs. Laddering is usually far less noticeable with this method, and many knitters find it easier than DPNs overall! If you’re unfamiliar with magic loop, we have a great tutorial on it right here.
I hope these suggestions help. You’re definitely not doing anything wrong! Laddering is just an unfortunate side effect of using DPNs, and nearly every knitter has experienced it to some degree.
All the best,
Lili
Many thanks Lili, I will have a look at the tutorial.
Fingers crossed !!!
Hello,
Would one FlexFlip work with 1 Double Pointed needle, or do I need two FlexFlips, or two with a Double Pointed?
I plan to make hand warmers, instead of mittens, following your instructions above, so I can use a keyboard wearing them.
Thanks, folks, for asking about those changes.
Hi Judy,
I actually wouldn’t recommend combining FlexiFlips with DPNs! The DPN doesn’t have the same flexibility as the FlexiFlips, so when it’s in the position of the needle that has to bend, it won’t be able to do that. I’d recommend using either 3 FlexiFlips or 4 DPNs!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I have never knitted gloves and so to guide me, is there a video I can follow? Thanks.
Hi Lesa,
Thanks for reaching out! We have not made a video for the entire pattern, but we do have tutorials for every technique necessary to use in the pattern. They are linked throughout the pattern, so if you come across a technique that’s unfamiliar, you can click on the link and watch the video!
And please don’t hesitate to reach out to us if you have any questions as you knit the mittens. We’re always happy to help and give guidance along the way!
All the best,
Lili
Can I add a ribbing to these mittens once I am done. I would like a tighter cuff.
Hi Barb,
You can definitely add ribbing to the cuff! It may be even easier to begin the mittens with the ribbing, rather than adding it on afterwards. If you want to try that, I’d recommend casting on the closest even number when you begin, knitting the ribbing, and then either increasing or decreasing by one stitch once you’re ready to knit the gusset. Hope this helps you get started!
All the best,
Lili
I have never knitted mittens, is there a knitting video when making these. I could use one as the only things I have made are hats and scarves knitted. Crocheted baby blankets and matching pillows. I am versatile but this sounds a bit complicated . I hope you do have a tutorial. Thank you. ❤️
Hi Lesa,
I’m afraid that we have not made a video of this entire pattern, but we do have tutorials on every special technique included in this pattern! They’re linked in pink text throughout the pattern, so you can access them directly. We’re also always happy to help out with anything that’s daunting, so don’t hesitate to reach out to us either here or by sending an email to customerservice@purlsoho.com if any questions come up as you knit!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! first time knitting these… My palm measures 7inches. do you recommend knitting the Small or Medium?
Hi Al,
Thanks for writing in! I think the Adult Small size would fit you best. It’s always good for mittens to have a bit of negative ease so they’re warm and snug!
All the best,
Lili
I’m sorry, “work in stockinette, knit until this ___” um… am I K & P or just knitting?
I started knitting every stitch when this told me to, but now that I’ve reached the palm, I need to go back to knit, purl???
And the knit 16, place the last 15 thing – I feel like this needs more clarification.
Hi Laura,
Never fear! You’ve done everything correctly so far, so you definitely don’t need to undo all your hard work. For this pattern, you will need to knit each stitch on every round to create the stockinette stitch pattern.
Stockinette is the knitted fabric that is created from knit stitches on the right side of the fabric. So if knitting in the round, you would knit every round. If knitting flat, you would alternate between knit and purl rows. This pattern is knit entirely in the round, so you will be knitting every round!
I hope this helps clarify things, and I’m happy to answer your other question too! Placing the previous 15 stitches on hold means that you locate the 15 stitches you just knit (these will be the first 15 stitches on your right needle) and slip them onto a stitch holder or scrap yarn. This separates the stitches that will eventually become the thumb of the mitten from the rest of the stitches, which will become the palm. Then, you can keep knitting through the rest of the instructions on this round!
I hope this helps you move forward in this pattern, but please let me know if there is anything else I can do for you!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I did the right hand mitten just fine then did the left and it came out the same as the right. How to I get the arch to go in the other direction? I am so frustrated.
Hi Judith,
We are so sorry you are having trouble with your left mitt! We will do our best to get you back on track! The gusset of the Left mitt changes direction on round 1 where you will work make one right increases before the marker versus on the right mitten, you will work make one left increases after the marker. Once you repeat this round 14 (16, 16, 18, 18) times, your gusset should shape differently than the right mitt leaning your stitches in the other direction. I hope this helps but please feel free to reach out to us should you have more questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
LOVE this pattern! I’ve knit quite a few pairs of mittens and this is the BEST pattern ever!❤️😊 Thank you!
Hi Judy!
Thank you so much for sharing! We love that you love this pattern as much as we do!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Do you have any hints as to how to pick up the one thumb stitch without leaving a hole there??
Hi Judy,
I like to pick up an extra stitch and knit it together with the neighboring stitch to close up any gaps. If you have already begun working rounds here, you could also use your tail to weave into this area to hide/close up any gaps from the inside. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi I’m knitting the arched gusset mittens and I’m stick. I’m knitting on magic loop size medium 39 stitches right mitten 20 stitches on one needle 19 on the other. I knitted to set round which said knit 17 place a marker then I knitted the increase round to 56 stitches all’s well. After that I’m stuck. Knit 16 place previous stitches on scrap yarn. Are they 16 from the increase stitches because I can’t get to them as they are at the end of the needle. I thought it was the increase stitches that were for the thumb. I hope I’ve made sense. And then where does the ski joining come in. I do so want to finish this pattern as it’s so nice. Thank you. Jennifer
Hi Jennifer,
Thank you for writing in! The 16 sts to be placed on hold are the stitches you just knit! I hope this helps clarify but please let me know if I have misunderstood your question!
All the best,
Gavriella