Tulle Wrap
Like a dancer mid-leap, the lightness of Miriam Walchshäusl‘s Tulle Wrap defies gravity, draping around the body with beautiful grace.
Miriam knit the Tulle Wrap in lofty half-brioche stitch with nupps (tinier, even cuter bobbles!) rippling down the center of the fabric in flowing arches.
Held double throughout, our lace-weight Tussock is a gorgeous mix of 60% super fine kid mohair and 40% silk and is the perfect choice for a light and airy knit like the Tulle Wrap. The mohair creates a wonderful halo that fills the space between the loose stitches, and the yarn’s silk core glows as it catches the light.
We made our sample in Pink Fog, reminiscent of a ballet dancer’s delicate tutu. But with over two dozen colors to choose from, you’ll have no trouble making this gossamer beauty your own!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed for Purl Soho by Miriam Walchshäusl. Miriam is based in Germany and has been knitting for over twenty years. Her designs, published under the moniker Mrs. Funny Valentine, are elegant and wearable knits that are inspired by the stories of women who stand up for their beliefs, uplift others, and bring positive change… We love her vision and approach!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoTulleWrap, and #PurlSohoTussock. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 7 skeins of Purl Soho’s Tussock, 60% super fine kid mohair and 40% silk. Each skein of this fingering-weight yarn is approximately 328 yards/ 25 grams; approximately 2,135 yards required. We used Pink Fog.
- US 9 (5.5 mm) straight or 24-inch circular needles
- Stitch markers
- Optional: Small crochet hook for lace- or fingering-weight yarn (see Notes, Nupp, below)
GAUGE
19 stitches and 21 rows = 4 inches in Half-Brioche Stitch (see Notes), with yarn held double (see Notes)
SIZE
Finished Dimensions: 19¾ inches wide x 78¾ inches long
NOTES
YARN DOUBLED
You will double the yarn throughout this pattern, holding two strands of Tussock together. The easiest way to do this is to wind two skeins into separate balls and pull one strand from each.
SLIP STITCHES
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise with yarn in back, unless otherwise specified.
HALF-BRIOCHE STITCH PATTERN (FOR GAUGE SWATCH)
Worked over an odd number of stitches.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 knitwise with yarn in back (wyib), *yos (see Basic Brioche Stitches, below), k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front (wyif), *bk2tog (see Basic Brioche Stitches), p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for stitch pattern.
BASIC BRIOCHE STITCHES
For tips on working Brioche Stitch, please visit our Brioche Stitch Tutorial.
YOS (YARN OVER SLIP)
Bring yarn forward, slip 1 purlwise, bring yarn over right needle to back.
BK2TOG (BRIOCHE KNIT 2 TOGETHER)
Knit next stitch together with its paired yarn over.
BRIOCHE DECREASES
For more help with these techniques, please visit our Brioche Stitch: Basic Decreases Tutorial!
BK3TOG (RIGHT LEANING BRIOCHE DECREASE)
Knit 2 together (next knit stitch with its paired yarn over and following purl stitch), slip resulting stitch back to left needle, pass following stitch (a knit stitch and its paired yarn over) over first stitch on left needle and off needle, move resulting stitch back to right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
BSK2P (BRIOCHE SLIP KNIT 2 PASS)
Slip 1 brioche stitch with its paired yarn over knitwise, knit 2 together (next purl stitch with following knit stitch and its paired yarn over), pass slip stitch and its paired yarn over together over and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
K3TOGB (RIGHT LEANING HALF BRIOCHE DECREASE)
Knit 2 together, slip resulting stitch back to left needle, pass following stitch (a knit stitch and its paired yarn over) over first stitch on left needle and off needle, move resulting stitch back to right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
SBK2P (SLIP BRIOCHE KNIT 2 PASS)
Slip 1 brioche stitch with its paired yarn over knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch and its paired yarn over together over and off right needle. [2 stitches decreased
MAKE NUPP
This small bobble is worked on the wrong side only and always into a purl stitch.
On wrong side: Loosely ([k1, yo] 3 times, k1) into next stitch, slip resulting 7 stitches back to left needle, knit 7 together through the back loop, slip resulting stitch back to left needle, k1.
Tip: If you struggle with knitting 7 together through back loop, try using a small crochet hook to draw the working yarn through those 7 stitches, then place resulting stitch on left needle, ready to be knit.
PATTERN
BEGIN
With two strands of yarn held together (see Notes), loosely cast on 95 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 knitwise with yarn in back (wyib), *yos (see Notes), k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front (wyif), *bk2tog (see Notes), p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three more times, or until piece measures 1¼ inches from cast-on edge.
SECTION A
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 knitwise wyib, *yos, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 16 times, bk2tog, make nupp (see Notes), bk3tog (see Notes), [p1, bk2tog] 9 times, p1, bsk2p (see Notes), make nupp, [bk2tog, p1] 17 times. [91 stitches]
Row 3: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 16 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 10 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 17 times. [95 stitches]
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 15 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k3togb (see Notes), [p1, bk2tog] 9 times, p1, sbk2p (Notes), p1, bk2tog, make nupp, [bk2tog, p1] 16 times. [91 stitches]
Row 5: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 15 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 12 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 16 times. [95 stitches]
Row 6: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 14 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, bk3tog, [p1, bk2tog] 9 times, p1, bsk2p, p1, k1, p1, bk2tog, make nupp, [bk2tog, p1] 15 times. [91 stitches]
Row 7: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 14 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 14 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 15 times. [95 stitches]
Row 8: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 13 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, bk2tog, p1, bk3tog, [p1, bk2tog] 9 times, p1, bsk2p, p1, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, bk2tog, make nupp, [bk2tog, p1] 14 times. [91 stitches]
Row 9: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 13 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 16 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 14 times. [95 stitches]
Row 10: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 12 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 2 times, bk3tog, [p1, bk2tog] 9 times, p1, bsk2p, [p1, bk2tog] 2 times, p1, k1, p1, bk2tog, make nupp, [bk2tog, p1] 13 times. [91 stitches]
Row 11: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 12 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 18 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 13 times. [95 stitches]
Row 12: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 11 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 3 times, bk3tog, [p1, bk2tog] 9 times, p1, bsk2p, [p1, bk2tog] 3 times, p1, k1, p1, bk2tog, make nupp, [bk2tog, p1] 12 times. [91 stitches]
Row 13: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 11 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 20 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 12 times. [95 stitches]
Row 14: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 10 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 4 times, bk3tog, [p1, bk2tog] 9 times, p1, bsk2p, [p1, bk2tog] 4 times, p1, k1, p1, bk2tog, make nupp, [bk2tog, p1] 11 times. [91 stitches]
Row 15: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 10 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 22 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 11 times. [95 stitches]
Row 16: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 9 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 5 times, bk3tog, [p1, bk2tog] 9 times, p1, bsk2p, [p1, bk2tog] 5 times, p1, k1, p1, bk2tog, make nupp, [bk2tog, p1] 10 times. [91 stitches]
Row 17: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 9 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 24 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 10 times. [95 stitches]
Row 18: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 8 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 6 times, bk3tog, [p1, bk2tog] 9 times, p1, bsk2p, [p1, bk2tog] 6 times, p1, k1, p1, bk2tog, make nupp, [bk2tog, p1] 9 times. [91 stitches]
Row 19: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 8 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 26 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 9 times. [95 stitches]
Row 20: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 7 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 7 times, bk3tog, [p1, bk2tog] 9 times, p1, bsk2p, [p1, bk2tog] 7 times, p1, k1, p1, bk2tog, make nupp, [bk2tog, p1] 8 times. [91 stitches]
SECTION B
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 7 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 28 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 8 times. [95 stitches]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 7 times, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 16 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk3tog, [p1, bk2tog] 10 times, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 8 times. [93 stitches]
Row 3: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 19 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 26 times. [95 stitches]
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 24 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k3togb, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 19 times. [93 stitches]
Row 5: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 20 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 25 times. [95 stitches]
Row 6: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 23 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, bk3tog, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 19 times. [93 stitches]
Row 7: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 21 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 24 times. [95 stitches]
Row 8: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 22 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, bk2tog, p1, bk3tog, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 19 times. [93 stitches]
Row 9: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 22 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 23 times. [95 stitches]
Row 10: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 21 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 2 times, bk3tog, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 19 times. [93 stitches]
Row 11: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 23 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 22 times. [95 stitches]
Row 12: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 20 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 3 times, bk3tog, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 19 times. [93 stitches]
Row 13: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 24 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 21 times. [95 stitches]
Row 14: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 19 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 4 times, bk3tog, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 19 times. [93 stitches]
Row 15: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 25 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 20 times. [95 stitches]
Row 16: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 18 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 5 times, bk3tog, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 19 times. [93 stitches]
Row 17: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 26 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 19 times. [95 stitches]
Row 18: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 17 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 6 times, bk3tog, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 19 times. [93 stitches]
Row 19: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 27 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 18 times. [95 stitches]
Row 20: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 16 times, bk2tog, make nupp, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 7 times, bk3tog, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 19 times. [93 stitches]
SECTION C
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 28 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 17 times. [95 sts]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 16 times, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 29 times.
Row 3: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, *yos, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, *bk2tog, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Rows 5–8: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 two more times.
CONTINUE
Repeat Sections A, B, and C seven more times.
Work Section A one more time.
SECTION D
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1 knitwise wyib, [yos, k1] 7 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 28 times, yos, [k1, yo, k1] in nupp, [yos, k1] 8 times. [95 stitches]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise wyif, [bk2tog, p1] 7 times, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 30 times, bk2tog, p1, k1, p1, [bk2tog, p1] 8 times.
Row 3: Slip 1 knitwise wyib, *yos, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise wyif, *bk2tog, p1, repeat from * to end of row.
Rows 5–8: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 two more times.
With right side facing you, bind off all stitches in pattern. Here’s how…
Bind-Off Row (right side): K1, *p1, pass first stitch over, k1, pass first stitch over, repeat from * to end of row.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends. Handwash and gently block.
LEARN ABOUT TUSSOCK + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Tussock is impossible to replace! Spun and dyed in Japan, it is 60% super fine kid mohair, the softest quality there is, plus 40% silk, which is much more than most mohair-silk blends and makes for a super lustrous yarn. Technically a fine lace-weight, Tussock’s mohair blooms so beautifully that we prefer to use it as a fingering-weight yarn, either alone on US 3-6 needles or alongside other yarns for plumping up a companion or deepening its complexity. Choose from 26 gorgeous colors, inspired by juicy, ripe berries and mimosas in bloom, lapping waters and zippy wildflowers… Pure joy!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of free Tussock knitting patterns and cast on!
More Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of fingering-weight yarn
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop mohair yarn
- Shop silk yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I have never been able to print your patterns. I try to download the pdf but nothing happens.
Hi Ronda,
Thanks for reaching out! I’d be happy to help you print and save a pattern from our Create page!
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, you can also hover your mouse over any portions of the pattern you wish to delete, and click the trash can icon that appears. Then, you can click “Print” or PDF” along the top left of the pattern preview box to print or save the pattern!
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
All the best,
Carly
I had no idea you had this for your patterns! It is wonderful!
Any adaptation to a scarf? Loooove this pattern but not ready to commit to a large project (maybe half the yardage?).
Hi Ginny,
We’re so excited to hear that you love the Tulle Wrap! Unfortunately, because this pattern doesn’t have a repeat, there is no simple way to adjust the width of the pattern. We’re so sorry about that! I’ll be sure to pass along your interest in seeing a scarf knit in Tussock to our design team.
In the meantime, you might be interested in checking out our Dewdrops Wrap, and our Seashell Lace Wrap! Both of these projects require less yardage of Tussock, and the Dewdrops Wrap can also be knit in a scarf size!
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
I am wondering how difficult this pattern is. I don’t see a rating of difficulty. I have made two sweaters – one with a false cable pattern. It was rated 4 out of 5 stars for difficulty. I am not an experienced knitter but I consider myself proficient. I love this pattern. Will the wrap hold up to being gently stuffed in a bag for travel? Thank you. I love Purl Soho. I want to come and visit in person some day. Mary Hall
Hi Mary!
Thank you for writing in. We do not include difficulty ratings for our patterns to help encourage crafters to give them a try, and we’re here to help if need be! Based on your experience with sweater knitting, though, I think you will find this pattern more than manageable and a fun knit that will definitely withstand being transported in a travel bag. Any creases in the fabric can easily be smoothed out with blocking or draping it over a hanger or chair, too!
As for our store, while we would love to get to share the joys of knitting in person, our NYC shop remains closed. Please read all about it on our Contact Us page here and feel free to reach out to us with any questions you may have!
All the best,
Margaret
I love this pattern but I seem to be allergic to mohair. Can you recommend a replacement yarn?
Thank you! Donna
Hi Donna,
Thanks for your question. I think a great alternative to Tussock for this project is Line Weight, held single!
Line Weight is spun single-ply from 100% super soft merino wool, which would make a lovely wrap. The gauge for Tussock is a bit finer than Line Weight, so I recommend knitting a few swatches to make sure you are getting 19 stitches and 21 rows = 4 inches in Half-Brioche Stitch. We have a tutorial here, All About Gauge, that might be helpful for this!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Please explain “[k1, yo, k1] in nupp”. Does that mean you do the 3 (k1, yo, k1) in the stitch at base of nupp? Resulting in +2 stitches?
Hi Donna!
Thank you for your question. Yes, the [k1, yo, k1] in nupp refers to working the sequence in brackets into the stitch at the base of the nupp, resulting in two additional stitches. Working a YO between the two knit stitches helps continue the lace design while also ensuring that your first knit stitch into the base of the nupp does not come undone when you go to knit the next stitch into the nupp. Additionally, the four total increased stitches in this technique are accounted for as the rows increase from 91 to 95 stitches and then decrease back to 91 stitches again in the following row.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Margaret
This design is beautiful! My yarn is ordered but I am wondering if size 9 32″ circular needles will work for this (it specifies 24″ circulars). I am a little nervous about attempting this design and want to make sure my supplies do not hinder my progress. Thanks for providing these wonderful patterns!
Hi Mary!
Thank you for your question. We want you to feel confident as you cast on for this project, and you should be just fine to use 32″ circular needles for this project! The main concern is accommodating the stitches for the wrap, but any 24″ or longer needle would work just fine.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
I’m having a difficult time starting this scarf and would appreciate your help.
In the “begin” section you say cast on 95 stitches, yet on the brioche tutorial which you refer to it says brioche is done over an even number of stitches. So are you referring to a selvidge stitch?
At any rate I can’t get rows 1 and 2 to line up properly so that it looks like a pattern of ribbing, as in your brioche tutorial.
Hi Nancy,
Thank you for your question, though we are so sorry to hear your first few rows aren’t turning out as expected! The extra stitch for this cast-on is for a slipped stitch selvedge, meaning the first stitch in each row will be slipped, which leaves the brioche pattern to be worked over an even number of stitches for the rest of each row. I recommend taking another look at your row to make sure you are slipping the first stitch in each row, which should help to realign your brioche columns!
I hope this helps, and we’re here if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi
I am almost done! I am planning on using the Line yarn for my next one. Would you use one or 2 strands with Line?
Thanks
Hi Caren,
Thanks for reaching out. I’d recommend holding just a single strand of Line Weight for this pattern! Line Weight is thicker than Tussock, so you should definitely be able to achieve the correct gauge with only one strand. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I am a visual knitter who likes to use charts in conjunction with written instructions. They help me visualize how the stitches should come together. I charted all sections of this beautiful pattern. May I post those sections on my Ravelry project page?
Hello,
Wow, that sounds like an amazing feat! You are welcome to post the chart you created on your Ravelry project page, and we’d also love to take a look at it ourselves. It sounds like it would be super helpful for many other knitters working on this pattern! If you’d like to share your chart with us, please send it to [email protected].
All the best,
Lili
Hi Hi MGB — I would LOVE to use your chart. I’m about to start this wrap and was a bit sad that there was not chart to work with. How do I find it on Ravelry? Thanks!
It looks like there are only a few projects on ravelry and this one has charts in it! In case you didn’t find it:
https://www.ravelry.com/projects/KnottyKnitrix/tulle-wrap
Hello! Are there any corrections or errata concerning this pattern? Dying to get my needles going! Lovely design.
Hi Maureen,
There have been no corrections or updates made to this pattern yet! I also wanted to let you know that we include the errata for all of our patterns on this page. This is a great place to check to see if any changes have been made, and if so, what the changes were! But each project page will always contain the most up-to-date version of the pattern.
All the best,
Lili
Are there any similar patterns available for crochet? Or similar enough…just in crochet… Thanks!
Hi Kathleen,
Thank you for writing in! Unfortunately, we do not have a crochet pattern that mimics this one but I am including a direct link to our crochet accessories and crochet blankets(could be altered to be crocheted thinner) for you. I hope this helps but please let me know if you have any other questions!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Any advice on how to add nupps on the back side to make this reversible?
Hi Lulu,
Thank you for writing in! Unfortunately, we don’t recommend altering the pattern to add nupps to the back as to not disrupt the stitch pattern. One thing you could try is adding ‘after thought’ bobbles or nupps. I would recommend trying this out on a small swatch knit in pattern to see how you like the fabric and go from there. If you feel familiar enough with brioche and confident in adding them to the pattern yourself, we definitely say go for it! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Probably the stupidest question: if it’s worked with 2 strands together, and 7 skeins are needed, did you split the 7th skein into 2 small balls?
Hi Dee,
Thank you for writing in, That is not a stupid question at all! Different knitters have different preferences for splitting their skeins. You could wind them into two separate balls or you could knit with a strand from the inside AND the outside at the same time. Some knitters even choose to wind their yarns into two balls and then wind them together again! I hope this helps and if you need anything else along the way, we are always happy to help!
Warmly,
Gavriella
I have not started the wrap yet. I wanted to comment on the Partly Cloudy Blue Tussock I bought for the project. I think it is the most beautiful, multidimensional color I have ever seen. Can’t wait to begin. BTW, the pattern is not difficult if you view the videos. For me knitting is not about the end product. It’s all about the journey. Enjoy knitters.
Hi Liane,
Thank you for writing in with such kind words! We are so glad to hear that you have found the video helpful! Please let us know if you have any questions once you begin and we would be happy to help!
Warmly,
Gavriella
Hello again. My journey with this pattern turned out to be a bit difficult. All is well save for the nupps. I have tried them with needle and crochet hooks and they turn out like small rats nests. I have done your bobble sheep with no problem. Plus with the loose gauge my nupp stitch is all stretched out. Plus they don’t seem to rotate to the right side of fabric. Is it time to admit defeat (I am blaming it on the non- stretchy nature of the yarn) and just add beads?
Hi Liane,
Thank you for writing in with an update! We know how frustrating it can be when projects aren’t working out as you expect but we are here to help anytime! One thing I would recommend is trying the crochet nupp method but go down a few hook sizes. If your nupps are coming out a little wobbly, it could be due to the lace-weight yarn not having enough structure so this should help with that. You could also try going down a few needle sizes just for the nupps and then switch back to your main fabric needles.
I have figured out a nupp stitch that works for me. Can’t do the k, YO thing. Stitches come out uneven. So I knit FB 3 times and knit one more to make 7. Then I turn the work and purl through the 7 stitches. For some reason this works for me and looks nice. When I turn my work back the nupp is on the left needle. Do I then knit it as per the pattern? Thank you so much for your help.
Hi Liane,
I am so happy to hear you have found a version that works best for you! I think you are now referring to closing up that nupp. If so, yes you will knit all the stitches together to bring them back down to 1 single stitch and then continue in pattern for the rest of the row.
OK. Thank you for the feedback. To clarify, when I turn the work I purl through all of the 7 stitches. It works for me. When I turn the work Should I then knit this one stitch to get it off of the left needle?
Oh gotcha! I would just transfer the stitch to the left needle instead of knitting it again.
Love your yarns – love your patterns!
Do you have any thoughts about using one strand of Tussock and one strand of Sweetgrass Fine to construct this piece?
Thank you!
Hi Penelope,
Thank you for writing in! That yarn combination sounds lovely! The only thing to note is that since you will be using only one strand of mohair, you might not have the same halo effect as the sample but you shouldn’t run into any issues otherwise. Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Following up – Sweetgrass Fine and Tussock, one strand each, is working very nicely for this pattern, the Sweetgrass Fine providing just enough added body so the Tussock doesn’t get away from me! Tussock’s color (nickel blue) appears as a subtle shimmer within the dominant color of the Sweetgrass Fine (beech bark), and its texture provides extra softness, as well as some halo effect – all very nice! For knitters who would like to try this pattern but might be hesitant to work with a yarn as light as Tussock, I wanted to report back, as this combination might be something to consider. Thank you for encouraging me to try this – I’m really happy with the way it’s going!
Ok, I am clearly missing something basic.
I’ve started this project 3 times and it’s clear that I am not getting the brioche ribs lined up correctly. I’ve been a knitter for 46 years and I understand the pattern. Is it possible that my needle tips are too blunt to pick up this very delicate yarn? What else can I try?
Hi Vicky,
Thank you for writing in! You should be fine using whatever needles you feel most comfortable with, blunt or sharp should work great with this pattern. From the sounds of it, I beleive you may be starting with a different cast on number. Could you please send a photo to [email protected] so we can have a deeper look? We’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on that way!
All the best,
Gavriella
Has anyone tried combining two different colors to knit this pattern? I am trying to visualize the effect but would appreciate seeing a sample if one exists.
Hi C.P.
Thank you for writing in! We haven’t come across a finished project using two colors of this pattern. I checked the Ravelry project page as well and didn’t see any examples but I think it sounds like a lovely idea and encourage you to give it a try!
All the best,
Gavriella
I have a new friend in my forever trials to knit a nupp. I read that there are lace needles, which have a very pointy end and a longer taper from point to barrel of the needle. I bought ChiaoGoo Lace needles (circular 24”). For lace and nupps they are priceless. I guess you can teach an old dog new tricks. (I’m 75).
We are so happy to hear that! It is never too late to learn new tricks!