Ainur Berkimbayeva For Purl Soho: Pinwheel Baby Romper
Possibly cuter than a sleepy kitten, the Pinwheel Baby Romper exceeds any notion of adorable we may have had! Designed by Ainur Berkimbayeva, always the queen of original ideas and now queen of cute as well, this little romper is the perfect outfit for life’s first steps.
Aside from the baby wearing it, the highlight here is the pinwheel, a whimsical bib that evokes a whirligig in the breeze, a sand dollar on the beach, or a sweet William blossom in the garden. The pinwheel is also where you begin, casting on at its center, then working in the round and increasing at five points.
Next, you cast on stitches for the underarms and work the piece in the round down to the bottom, shaping the hips and gusset into an irresistibly voluminous puffball. Attached I-cords around the armholes finish as straps that tie over the shoulders and adjust with the baby’s size.
To knit up her Pinwheel Baby Romper, Ainur used our lovely Buttercup Cotton. One hundred percent organically grown cotton, it is a fingering weight sweetie with a super soft touch and very nice hand. It is machine wash- and dry-able and has enough yardage that you’ll only need one or two skeins to make a romper for the cutie in your life!
Designed for Purl Soho by Ainur Berkimbayeva.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoPinwheelBabyRomper, and #PurlSohoButtercupCotton. We can’t wait to see what you make!
UPDATE: NOW IN PICNIC COTTON
JULY 2022
Made of extra soft and strong, organically grown Pima cotton, Picnic Cotton is the very best for your little bugaboo! Like the blur on a twirling pinwheel, the two colors of this yarn blend together as you knit, creating a playful marled fabric that is as light and soft as the skin of its tiny recipient. It takes only three or four skeins of this affordable, machine wash- and dryable, yarn, so cast on this winsome piece for the baby in your life!
Materials
- 1 (2, 2) skein(s) of Purl Soho’s Buttercup Cotton, 100% organically grown cotton. Each skein is approximately 364 yards/100 grams; approximately 350 (460, 580) yards required. We used the colors Heirloom White and Pale Denim. (NOTE: We no longer offer Buttercup Cotton, but choose from one of our other fingering weight yarns.)
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 24-inch circular needles
- Six US 3 double pointed needles
- Spare double pointed or circular needles, US 3 or smaller
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Pinwheel Baby Romper pattern
Gauge
29 stitches and 52 rounds = 4 inches in garter stitch
29 stitches and 38 rounds = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
3-6 months (6-12 months, 12-18 months)
To fit actual chest circumference of approximately 16 (18, 20) inches with approximately 2-3 inches of ease
- Finished Waist Circumference: 16¼ (18½, 20¾) inches
- Finished Bib Width and Height: 4¼ (4¾, 5¼) inches
- Front Length from Waist to Crotch: 6 (6¾, 7½) inches
- Leg Circumference: 8¼ (9½, 10½) inches
Samples: The rompers shown here are size 3–6 months, worn on baby, and size 6–12 months.
Pattern
The Pinwheel Baby Romper is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Love this! Can it be sized up for 18-24 months?
Hi Monica,
Thanks for reaching out! At this time we only have the pattern available for up to 18 months, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
The romper is adorable but does the cutest baby ever come with the pattern?!!
This romper and the baby are just over the moon! I am expecting to be a great-grandmother in November. This
looks just like what I have been looking for to make for
her. I hope I have time to complete this!
So cute! I’m guessing this baby model is about 6 months… and at the tail end of the romper fitting.
Can you say what the difficulty level is- or what knitting techniques are used?
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for writing in! I would consider this an intermediate pattern, it is pretty straight forwards, not too difficult! The pattern includes techniques like working in the round, German Short Rows, Make 1 Backwards Loop Cast-On, and Long Tail Tubular Bind-Off!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this! I have a ton of Cotton Pure yarn. Ould I use that or is it not soft enough for a baby?
Hi Miriam,
Thanks for reaching out! Buttercup Cotton and Cotton Pure are actually very similar, they are both 100% cotton and very soft (certainly soft enough for a baby!) the main differences are the yarn weights and the color palettes that they come in.
However, since Cotton Pure is a sport weight yarn and this pattern uses Buttercup Cotton which is a fingering weight yarn I would suggest sticking with the original Buttercup Cotton, unless you are up for a bit of a challenge, since it’s much lighter weight, and working this pattern with the Cotton Pure would require quite a bit of work to re-gauge the pattern to accommodate a heavier yarn and a larger needle size.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Thanks, that’s very clear
I love the look of this BUT, for the life of my, I cannot get past the first 3 rounds: “cast 5 stitches onto 3 dp needles; connect; purl to end of round”… I’ve studied your dp knitting tutorial but fear that my 3 week old granddaughter will be a toddler before I manage the beginning. Failure is not due to arthritic fingers and I have a fair amount of experience using dp needles… it’s just so tiny, slippery, and frustrating. Any suggestions for how to initiate the bib differently? TIA!
Hi Sheila,
Thanks for reaching out! I totally understand your frustration, it can be very hard to start out on double-pointed needles with just a few stitches. What type of dpns are you using? I would suggest using bamboo needles, they tend to be less slippery and easy to work with! If that’s what you are already using, then you may be able to use Magic Loop instead to get the first few rows underway!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hello, this is the cutest pattern ever, however I am having quite the time getting it started. Between the tiny fiber and the number of beginning stitches not evenly divisible by 3, I am having a miserable time getting past the cast on for the Front Bib.
I do know the technique and even practiced it using larger yarn and an easier stitch count. Any advice for me? I really want to get going. THANK YOU’
Hi Kris,
Thanks for reaching out! It can be very hard to start out on double-pointed needles with just a few stitches, so I totally understand how you feel! I would suggest using bamboo dpns, they tend to be less slippery and easy to work with! If that’s what you are already using, then you may be able to use Magic Loop instead to get the first few rows underway!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
I have a question on round 3. If there is only one stitch in between each marker, how do I m1l, then k1, m1r, and then knit another stitch before slipping the marker? I’m very confused! Thank you
Hi Mary,
I’d be glad to help clarify this row of the pattern! After knitting the first stitch and slipping the first marker, you should see one stitch before the following marker. To work the m1L, you’ll want to pick up the bar between the stitch on your left-hand needle and the stitch you just knit from front to back and then knit through the back loop. Next, you’ll knit the single stitch on your left-hand needle. Then, to work the m1R, you’ll pick up the bar between the stitch you just knit and the next stitch on your left-hand needle (the one after the marker) from back to front and knit it through the front loop. This should leave you with three stitches between markers! If you need help with the m1L/m1R, check out our tutorial here!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hello,
I am so challenged with this pattern — especially with the German Short Rows. I’ve followed the Special Instructions on how to make the double stitch, but continuing on in “Increase for Gusset Round 1” while knitting remaining double stitches as single stitches, there is a nice hole by each double stitch. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks for any help,
Dianne
Hi Dianne,
Thanks for reaching out! Have you checked out our German Short Rows tutorial yet? If not I would check that out, in the video we show exactly how to treat the double stitch to avoid holes. If you are still having issues, please send the information above plus a clear photo of your work to our customer service team at customerservice@purlsoho.com and they can help you further from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
Oh dear, I’m glad I’m not the only one having trouble with the beginning cast on using 3dpn. Gaaaaaa!!!!! It’s impossible! My gauge has me on size 2. This is insanity. I’ll try the other method, but with 29 years knitting, I have never seen anything like this.
Hi Laura,
I’m so sorry to hear that the cast-on is giving you so much trouble! It is indeed very, very tricky. I’m glad that you’re open to trying out the other methods of casting on though–those who I know who have made this pattern have had luck with magic loop or Flexi Flips.
All the best,
Lili
I have completed Rounds 5 and 6 of the Bib. Please further explain the next round. Do I knit the first stitch and bind it off or leave it?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out. The first stitch will remain on your needles! So you’ll really need to knit a total of 3 stitches at the beginning of Next Round before passing any over and off the needle. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
What is the best bind off stitch for using in binding off after completing rounds 5 &6?
Thank you,
Kim
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in. We used a standard bind-off at that point! So just knitting a stitch and passing the previous stitch over and off the needle. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello again
One last question. On round 2, do I end up with 5 markers? And how do I place a marker on the end of the needle after the last stitch so that it doesn’t fall off the needle?
Kim
Hi Kim,
You should end up with 10 markers after Round 2! I’d recommend omitting any markers that would fall at the juncture of two DPNs, for that exact reason. Instead, just treat the switch between needles as a marker of sorts!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
Me again. I’m confused about joining the front and back. Do I join so that the back sides or wrong sides are facing each and the front sides are facing out? In other words, do I join with the side that has the 8” tail?
Thanks again.
Kim
Hi Kim,
Thanks so much for writing in!
You are correct! The wrong sides of the front and back panels should be facing each other with their right sides facing out!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hello,
After working short rows I’m working short row 5 and knitting the double stitches as one. As I work round 1 for the increase for gusset stitches I will still have the purl side of the short row stitches to work together is that correct? Or do I work through the round knitting those stitches and then begin the increase row?
Thank you,
Kim
Hello,
I reread the instructions and see that yes, I do knit remaining double stitches as single stitches.
Thank you again.
Kim
Hi Kim,
Thank you for writing in, and I’m so glad you were able to find the answer!
Please feel free to reach out again with any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hello,
As I am working on shaping the back with short rows am I also continuing to working in the same pattern of increasing 4 stitches for the gussets or do I just knit across the markers without M1L or M1R? Thank you for clarifying.
Kim
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! When you are ready to start the Increase for Gusset section, you will be working the rows without the double stitches you had been making in the previous section, instead you will be knitting to the next marker, sm, m1L, k1, m1R, sm, knit to next marker, knitting remaining double stitches as single stitches, sm, m1L, k1, m1R, sm, knit to end of round.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi,
I’m actually referring to the shaping back with short rows section. At the time that I am working the short rows do I also continue to work the rounds 3 & 4 from the hips and gusset section or do I just knit across the markers vs the m1l and m1r. Or it could be that I’m not working the short rows across the right back section. I will try again.
Thank you.
Hi Kim,
I’m sorry for my misunderstanding! I realize now that you are working on the short rows section on the back!
For this section, you are working back and forth to make short rows, knitting only a portion of the stitches in your row, and no longer continuing the increases from the previous section.
If you would like to learn more about German Short Rows, you can check out our tutorial here!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Thank you.
Kim
You’re very welcome, Kim!
Happy knitting!
Carly
Hi there,
I’ve made it to the section on armhole edging. Is it possible there is something missing from the instructions there? I’m assuming I need to repeat the instructions for the edging on the left side though it’s not stated, unless I’ve totally misunderstood. Thank for clarifying.
Hi Damara,
Thanks for reaching out, and that’s a very good question! After you finish the Strap + Armhole Edging section for the Right Side, you will repeat the entire section for the Left Side, starting to pick up and knit at upper left corner of Back Bib and ending at upper corner of Front Bib instead. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I’m at the armhole edging section too. I have the front right side facing me, but if I’m picking up stitches, wouldn’t I be working across the top instead of down the side across the underarm and up the back? Or should I be working from the back side of the front to cast on the stitches?
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for writing in! In this pattern, the edging actually doesn’t go along the tops of the bibs at all, but I can see how the wording is confusing! The “upper right corner” refers to the corner on the right side when the garment is worn, but it will appear as the left corner when the right side of the fabric is facing you. Let me know if this makes sense!
All the best,
Lili
I’m at about 70 stitches on the front pinwheel. It doesn’t look superb but after 10 or so tries, it’s looking better. Very fiddly. My question is that my pattern does not have the distinctive stiches that separate the pin wheels. What’s up?
Thanks
Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in. The visual separation between the pin wheels are created by the increase stitches that you work beside the stitch markers! I would recommend checking to see if you’re working those in the correct locations. If you’re still worried that your work doesn’t look right, feel free to send us a photo at customerservice@purlsoho.com, and we’ll take a look!
All the best,
Lili
I’ve ripped and re-knit many times but keep ending up with an extra stitch…anyone else having this issue with the pinwheel start?
Hi Cirilia,
I’m so sorry to hear you have been having a frustrating time with the first few rows of this romper! To help make sure you don’t have an extra stitch, we have found it helpful to work without any stitch markers until at least Round 6, relying on the numerical instructions instead. This way, you can more easily count the number of stitches after each round!
I hope this helps you get back on track with your project, and please don’t hesitate to ask any other questions that may come up!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi Margaret, thank you for your quick response. This tip definitely helped me get back on track! I also decided to use Emily Ocker’s circular cast on method to start with 10 sts. Very excited to see this cute little romper take shape now, thanks again 🙂
CR
You are very welcome, Cirilia, and I’m glad to hear this tip helped!
All the best,
Margaret
This pattern is extremely difficult and there needs to be private videos for pattern purchasers. I have lost three days just trying to get started! I’ve read all your comments and I have tried all your suggestions. This is just too hard without assistance. Video’s are needed for each section and access to get help!
Hi Sharon,
We’re sorry to hear that you’re having trouble with this pattern and are eager to provide help! We’d recommend signing up for a 1-On-1 Project Help session, where a team member would be happy to meet with you over Zoom and demonstrate any techniques that are causing difficulty.
All the best,
Lili