Shifting Rib Cowl
When the only constant is change, welcome the New Year with our Shifting Rib Cowl!
Knit from bottom up in 2×2 rib, the curious rhythm of this cowl is achieved by a round of simple cables strategically placed at ever-decreasing intervals. In the end, the effect is distinctly botanical, like a stalk of bamboo, columns of climbing vines, or a swath of fluted tree bark… Beautiful!
Knit in our classic Mulberry Merino, this merino-mulberry silk blend is soft enough to tickle your chin and warm enough to keep your neck snug. We used Black Green for a deep-in-the-forest vibe, but we’d love to see the Shifting Rib Cowl in sweet Alpine Rose, luminescent Light Cerulean, or any other of Mulberry Merino’s 22 gorgeous colors.
Whatever color you pick, you’ll need just two skeins… Looks like 2020 is off to a very good start!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed for Purl Soho by Nicole Milano.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoShiftingRibCowl. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, 80% extra fine merino wool and 20% mulberry silk. Each skein is 247 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 247 yards required. We used the color Black Green.
- US 6 (4 mm), 16- or 20-inch circular needles
- Stitch marker or scrap yarn
- Cable stitch holder
Gauge
32 stitches and 34 rounds = 4 inches in stitch pattern
Size
Finished Circumference: 18 inches
Finished Height: 12 inches
Notes
Stitch Multiple
This stitch pattern works over a multiple of 4 stitches.
C4F (Cable 4 Front)
Slip 2 stitches onto cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, p2 from left needle, then k2 from cable stitch holder.
Pattern
Using a Long Tail Cast-On, cast on 144 stitches.
Place marker and join for working in the round, being careful not to twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 4 inches from cast-on edge.
Cable Round 1: *C4F (see Notes), repeat from * to end of the round.
Next Round: *P2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round until piece measures 7¼ inches from cast-on edge.
Cable Round 2: P2, *C4F, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip next 2 stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, remove marker, slip next 2 stitches to right needle, replace marker.
Next Round: K2 from cable stitch holder, P2, *k2, p2, repeat from *to end of round.
Next Round: *K2, p2, repeat from *to end of round.
Repeat last round until piece measures 9½ inches from cast-on edge.
Repeat Cable Round 1.
Next Round: *P2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat last round until piece measures 11 inches from cast-on edge.
Repeat Cable Round 2.
Next Round: K2 from cable stitch holder, P2, *K2, p2, repeat from *to end of round.
Next Round: *K2, p2, repeat from *to end of round.
Repeat last round until piece measures 12 inches from cast-on edge.
Bind off loosely in 2×2 rib.
Weave in ends and block as desired.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Would love to make this cowl. Can I use a plain old knit cast-on? The only one I know.
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! We used a Long Tail Cast On, which you can learn from our free tutorial, but a knit-on cast on should be just fine for this cowl!
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
What is the weight of the mulberry merino yarn used in the shifting rib cowl?
Hi Paula,
Thanks for reaching out! Mulberry Merino is a sport weight yarn.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
What is the yardage? Thanks.
Hi DB,
Thanks for reaching out! We used 297 yards of Mulberry Merino for our cowl. You can find this information in the Materials section above!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Do you think this would work in Pure Cotton or Burnish?
Thanks!
Hi Jen,
Thanks for reaching out! Cotton Pure would be an excellent substitute for this cowl, but Burnish is on the lighter side of sport weight, so it might be a bit thin. Also, bamboo rayon is extremely drapey and fluid, so the cowl would not stand up on its own and the ribbing would not contract as much, so the shifting rib would not be as crsip or clear. Cotton Pure, however, has a lot more body, so you should get a very similar effect to our Mulberry Merino version!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
How pretty!
Maybe this would be the project to use the Mulberry Merino in my stash: I have one skein each of Wheat Flour and one of Field Mouse. Perhaps a two tone color block, or even stripes?
I’d love someone’s opinion!
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for reaching out, and what an interesting idea! I think it would add some extra excitement to change colors during or immediately after each cable row, so the color changes along with the ribbing shifting over and the stripes get progressively smaller along the length of the cowl. Narrow stripes of equal size could also be lovely, but they may distract the eye from the stitch pattern.
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I really like that idea. Thanks.
Yes, I am only now noticing the decreasing size of the sections after each cable shift!
I would just have to decide which color to start with. Starting and ending with the darker color, or starting and ending with the lighter one?
Hi Natalie,
I think you could go either way, but if there is a color you prefer over the other, I would start with that one since the first section is the longest, so you will end up with more of that color in the finished cowl!
Best,
Julianna
Love this but isn’t the circumference 12″ and the length 18″ instead? Thank you for this lovely idea and pattern
Hi and thanks for reaching out! The circumference of 18″ and length of 12″ listed in the pattern are correct – a 12″ circumference cowl would probably be a little difficult to pull over one’s head!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Love this Cowl! Can I use Season Alpaca for this pattern?
Thanks!
Hi Myrna,
Great question! I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch to make sure, but Season Alpaca should be a wonderful substitute for Mulberry Merino in this cowl!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Could this be done in cashmere tend? Seems thicker so I thought it would need less stitches but I dont know how to figure out — could you say how many stitches would you cast on? Thanks!!
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! This cowl would be just beautiful in Cashmere Tend, but since it is quite a bit thicker than Mulberry Merino, you will have to make some pattern modifications. I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch in 2×2 rib using Cashmere Tend on a US 9 or 10 needle. You can then multiply your stitches per inch by 18 inches and round to the nearest multiple of four to determine how many stitches to cast on.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
In the photo the model is wearing, it looks like this cowl is wider at the bottom, and fans out nicely at the shoulder, but when I look at the photo of just the cowl it looks like it is the same width thru out. Is that correct? Do you have a pattern that is wider at the bottom if I am correct? Love your yarn, patterns, website overall…Beverly
Hi Beverly,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that the cowl is a straight sided tube, but due to the lovely drape of Mulberry Merino and the elasticity of 2×2 rib, it tends to pool at the base of the neck and look much wider at the bottom. If you are looking for a more structured, shaped cowl that is wider at the bottom, you may be interested in our Pivot Cowl or Cozy Cable Cowl!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello,
Such a a wonderful pattern! Do you have any ideas for cast on and rows for a child 3 years plus please?
Thank you
Hi and thanks for reaching out! For a child’s cowl, I would cast on 128 stitches for a 16 inch diameter. You may also want to shorten or omit the first section so that it’s a bit shorter.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I would love to knit this using a less expensive yarn. I know it won’t be as good, but I would appreciate any options you would suggest….?
Thank you:-)
Hi Stormie,
We hear you! We totally understand that sometimes our yarn suggestions are more of an inspiration than a reality for many people. We are always happy to recommend less expensive (but still beautiful!) alternatives. In this case, we suggest that you try Good Wool or Cotton Pure. Both are sport weight yarns that should work up beautifully in this pattern, and you will need one skein of Good Wool or two of Cotton Pure.
Thank you so much for asking. We’re sure that lots of other readers will thank you, too!
Julianna
Hello, I’m using this pattern over 100 stitches for a baby blanket. How do I implement Cable Round 2? My most recent row was P2 K2.
Hi Gillian,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have instructions for working this cowl flat. Since the cables are all worked in one direction, there aren’t any knit stitches left on the right hand edge to work the third cable row. You may be able to work around this by increasing two stitches at the beginning decreasing two at the end of Cable Round 2, but I can’t say for sure how the edges will look. It’s certainly worth trying however! Please do let us know how it turns out!
Best,
Julianna
? I may try increasing by two K at the end of the preceding row and see how that looks. I can hide the increase in the border around the edge of the blanket!
Hello! I adore this pattern and am now working Cable Round 2 for the first time. At the end of the round, when moving the market, do you slip the first two stitches of the next round purlwise to the right needle and then knit the stitches off the cable needle or do you purl the two stitches prior to knitting the last two off the cable needle? Thanks so much!
Hi Megan,
Thanks for reaching out! Because you already purled these stitches at the beginning of this row, you will be slipping them to keep them in the same row.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
That makes perfect sense. Thank you for the explanation 🙂
Such a beautiful design! One question (as I’m still a newbie): when you say we should use ‘stitch pattern’ for gauge do you mean “K2, p2” (as in the project) or rather stockinette or garden stitch?
Hi Ana,
Great question! Yes, that is correct! You should knit your gauge swatch in 2×2 ribbing for this pattern.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Love knitting this pattern so far, but I’m stuck wondering if I’ve made a mistake. After the second time making cable stitches all around I followed pattern, but when starting next round, I have two purl stitches. The pattern asks me to start with a K2, P2 row, but if I continue, I will be knitting the purl stitches in that round. Is that correct, or should I really be seeing two knit stitches at the beginning of my round?
Hi Alison,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds like you might not have moved the marker correctly at the end of the second cable row. When working the final C4F at the end of the second cable row, you should have slipped the final two knit stitches of the row to your cable needle while removing the end of round marker, slipped the next two purl stitches from the right needle to the left needle, replaced the end of round marker, and then knitted the two stitches from the cable needle, so that your round begins with two knit stitches immediately after the marker. It feels a little odd on the very next plain row after the second cable row, since you have already knitted the first K2 of the round when working this final cable row, but if it is done correctly, your round should start with a K2 after the marker. If you have gotten off, it would probably be easiest to just move the marker to where it is supposed to be!
Best,
Julianna
this, and Emma’s comment below ~ I had the same question/ confusion, despite having moved the marker correctly. I think it is because by the time you read the *k2, p2 instruction you have *already* knitted the first two. Maybe the instruction should note that the first k2 has already been done (in the split cable stitch). Might help.
Alison, I have this same problem, and posted below. If I follow the instructions as written, Cable Round 2 ends with slip the 2 purl to the right needle, replace marker and then knit 2 from the cable needle. The next round’s instructions say k2p2….. which means 4 knots in a row (2 from cable needle and now these first 2), which puts knots above purls and purls above knits…..
I have exactly the same problem as the previous poster (Julianna) – after the 2nd cable round the pattern says *K2, P2* but it looks like it should be *P2, K2* as the first 2 stitches on my LH needle are Purl stitches, not Knit. I’m sure I moved the stitch marker correctly.
Hi Emma,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend trying to follow the more detailed instructions in the previous comment next time you are working a cable row. It can be tricky to get the hang of how to move the stitch marker in the middle of the cable, but fortunately, you can simply move the stitch marker two stitches either to the right or left so that your round begins with two knit stitches. The cowl will still turn out just fine!
Best,
Julianna
It’s been many years since I’ve done it but during his stay at home. I’d like to try again. Can a beginner or advanced beginner do this pattern?
Thanks,
Chris
Hi Chris!
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, I would say that a beginner or advanced beginner could knit this project easily! It’s just knits and purls, with an occasional simple cable! If you need a lesson (or a refresher) on working cables we have a tutorial here: Cable
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
Hi! If I’m making this for a child, (ages 6, 5, and 3), would I still need two skeins? Thank you!
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, I think you would only need one or a portion of a skein to make a child-sized cowl! We only used about 50 yards of the second skein for our adult-sized cowl, so you wouldn’t have to make it too much smaller to only need one.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi,
Do you think I can use the long tail tubular cast on and long tail tubular bind off for this project?
Thank you.
Hi Pei Wen,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you can certainly use long tail tubular cast on and cast off for this project!
Please let us know how this works out!
All the best,
Gianna
Hello,
My 32 stitch swatch is 3 1/4 inches wide, at rest (meaning the ribs are flat and not pulled at all). Since I’d prefer it to be a bit tighter (less slouch), will this work in my favor? By my calculations, the finished circumference will be 14 2/3-ish, whereas the pattern indicates 18 inches. Since I’m assuming that means 18 inches at rest, I’ll still be able to get it over my head even though it’s almost 4 inches smaller, right?
Thank you!
Lisa
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! It may be a bit tight getting over your head but the rib stitch stretches a decent amount so you may be okay! The 18″ is measured at rest!
All the best,
Gianna
Thank you! Purl Soho is the best….! (which I pass on to anyone with yarn)
Hi Lisa,
Thanks you for your kind words! I am happy to help!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi. When I slip the stitches to the cable holder, should I slip them knit wise or purl wise or does it not matter? I’ve done my first cable row and it doesn’t look great….it sort of leans rather than a cables. Looks like a mistake row, actually…Thank you!
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for reaching out! You should be slipping all the stitches purlwise. This is default when working cables since slipping the stitches knitwise would twist the stitch, and is what may be causing your cables to look incorrect!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there,
After doing the cable round 2 – and then knitting a few rounds after that, I realized that on the exterior of my cowl, on the cable round 2, the two stitches beginning after the stitch marker on that row appear to have a line of yarn crossing along the outside of the two stitches. On the inside of the cowl, that is not visible. Is this a result of the instructions and it should just be word inside out or did I make some error that allowed for this?
Hi Grace,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help with this! To get a better understanding of what is going on, please send a photo of your work to our email [email protected] and we can troubleshoot further from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
hi there. I LOVE the green/black yarn used and this pattern is pretty cool.. but I can’t do alpaca, wool or mohair. is there any other yarn this would work with and still have enough stretch to get over my head? preferable in the same color 😉
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out to us today! We’re so happy that you’re a fan of the Shifting Rib Cowl. For this pattern though, I think it might be a bit challenging to get the stretch and fit you’re looking for without using those particular fibers. But I’m very happy to share that we do have a lovely cowl pattern that uses our Cotton Pure, a 100% organically grown cotton yarn: our Two-Color Cotton Cowl! It’s a beautifully textured knit with an awesome drape that’s composed of Fisherman’s Rib worked with two colors. Cotton Pure comes in a wide variety of hues, and you only need 2 skeins for this cowl!
I hope this was helpful! Thanks again for your question!
All the best,
Cat
I’m at this point:
Cable Round 2: P2, C4F, repeat from to last 2 stitches, slip next 2 stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, remove marker, slip next 2 stitches to right needle, replace marker, k2 from cable stitch holder.
Next Round: K2, p2, repeat fromto end of round.
Does this mean that at the point of “Next Round” I have a row with 4 knit stitches? The 2 knit from the cable holder and then the k2,p2 pattern???? This can’t be right.
I figured out the earlier problem that I posted above, with the help of Tricia Neuhaus. Her observation is spot on. The directions should be rewritten.
Now I’m having trouble at the 11″ point:
•Next Round: *P2, k2, repeat from * to end of round.
•Repeat last round until piece measures 11 inches from cast-on edge.
•Repeat Cable Round 2.
If following these instructions as written, I would begin the row with a p2, put the two knit stitches on the cable holder and purl 2 — 4 purls in a row?
Hi Nancy,
Thank you for reaching out. I want to let you know that we’ve seen all of your comments, as well as your message through Ravelry, and I’ll try to answer all of your questions in one go! Tricia is absolutely correct: The first k2 of “Next Round” is indeed the same stitches as the “k2 from cable stitch holder” on the previous round. These two stitches become the first two stitches of “Next Round” because you move the end-of-round marker.
But I completely agree that the way we’ve notated this is confusing, so I wanted to let you know that we’ve gone ahead and updated the pattern to make this a bit clearer! The pattern now says:
Cable Round 2: P2, *C4F, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, slip next 2 stitches to cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, remove marker, slip next 2 stitches to right needle, replace marker.
Next Round: K2 from cable stitch holder, P2, *k2, p2, repeat from *to end of round.
Next Round: *K2, p2, repeat from *to end of round.
Repeat last round until piece measures 9½ inches from cast-on edge.
I hope this helps clear up your questions about this point in the pattern! As for the spot after you knit to 11 inches, it’s actually exactly the same as the first time you work Cable Round 2. Once you complete that round successfully, then you should be good to go when Cable Round 2 happens again!
Thanks again for bringing this to our attention.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Would this pattern work for Cashmere Merino Bloom? If so, how should the pattern be adjusted? Would one skein be enough?
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for reaching out. You can definitely use Casmere Merino Bloom for this pattern, but you’ll need to adjust the number of stitches you cast on. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the circumference (18 inches) and cast on the nearest multiple of 4. I’d recommend getting 2 skeins of Cashmere Merino Bloom, since the pattern requires 294 yards. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’d love to make this cowl, but I noticed you’re not selling the mulberry merino yarn anymore! Any suggestions for a good substitute?
Thanks!
Hi Julie,
Thanks for writing in. I would suggest using Wigeon in place of Mulberry Merino! Wigeon is a sportweight, 100% merino yarn, so it would be a great substitute. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Lovely pattern! I have four skeins of Spectrum Silk in my stash and it is so soft that I would love to use it for a cowl. Do you think it would work for this pattern? Thank you.
Hi Deb,
Thanks for writing in. You can definitely use Spectrum Silk for this pattern, but you may find that you need to adjust your cast on number to create a cowl of the right circumference! To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the circumference (18 inches) and cast on the nearest multiple of 4. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much Lili!
Can you make this cowl into a scarf
Hi Lindy,
Yes, you can use this stitch pattern for a scarf as well! Just work in 2 x 2 ribbing and work a Cable Round whenever you want to shift the ribbing over by one spot.
All the best,
Lili