The lines and planes of our Incline Decline Cardigan form their own hibernal landscape, like spare slopes converging in a valley or branches stretching from a bare tree… Quiet details and big gestures.
Garter stitch is put to good use here in a multi-directional design that features bands of stockinette at the seams. These simple stitches are the perfect language for the unconventional construction of this very fascinating knit.
It is composed of four pieces: two fronts and two backs. Each piece is knit on the bias, which, technically, means that the grain of the fabric is on the diagonal and, practically, means that you increase, decrease, or both at the beginning and end of each row…. Pretty cool and kind of an adventure!
Once you’ve knit the two back pieces (starting at each cuff), you join them up the center of the back, then you throw the two fronts into the mix and sew the seams along the shoulders, sleeves, and sides. Lastly, you’ll pick up stitches to knit the garter stitch band and collar.
And to give a beautiful drape and super-soft feel to the whole thing, we used our gorgeous Cashmere Merino Bloom. It’s a wonderful yarn to accompany you on this winter knitting excursion!
Designed for Purl Soho by Mary Anne Benedetto.
Materials
- 6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 10) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cashmere Merino Bloom, 75% extra fine merino wool and 25% cashmere. Each skein is approximately 218 yards/100g; approximately 1225 (1335, 1510, 1685, 1895, 2025) yards required. We used Dove Gray (and Blue Rust for a sample shown in some of the photos up top).
- US 7, 32-inch circular needles
- A set of US 7 double pointed needles
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- Stitch markers
- Removable stitch markers
- An Incline Decline Cardigan Pattern
Gauge
20 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
Sizes
39 (42, 47, 51, 55, 59)
To fit actual chest circumference of 31–34 (34–38, 39–43, 43–47, 47–51, 51–55) inches, with approximately 4–8 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 39 (42, 47, 51, 55, 59) inches
- Finished Length From Shoulder To Bottom Edge: 20¾ (21½, 22¾, 24, 25¾, 26¼) inches
- Finished Length From Underarm To Bottom Edge: 14 (14, 15, 15, 16, 16) inches
- Finished Sleeve Length From Cuff To Underarm: 18 (18, 18½, 18½, 18¾, 18¾) inches
SAMPLE: The Dove Gray sweater pictured here is size 42, worn with 8 inches of ease.
Pattern
The Incline Decline Cardigan Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
PRINT
How beautyful! Purl Soho is my absolutely favorit knitting webside. I love ALL your projects ! And I wish, I could live in Soho… Best regards from northern Germany! Kathrin
This looks like a really nice cardigan. I have some Season Alpaca I’ve been waiting to knit. Do you think I could substitute that? I know it’s a sport yarn. What if I held it with something like Tussock, do you think that could work (I never know what holding 2 strands of yarn equates to)?
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for reaching out! While Season Alpaca on its own would probably be too thin for this pattern, it is possible that adding a strand of Tussock would bulk it up just enough to obtain the correct gauge. It’s hard to say for sure though, so I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch to find out! It’s usually pretty straightforward to estimate the resulting gauge or weight if you hold two strands of the same yarn together, but adding a thinner, textured yarn can be a bit unpredictable. Either way, knitting up a swatch will give you all the information you need!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love the incline decline sweater! Is there any reasonI couldn’t knit the four major pieces with straight needles? Please reply. I’d really like to make it! Thanks , Geri Baer
Hi Geri,
Thank you so much for the kind words! While all the pieces of the cardigan are knit flat, you will have up to 300 stitches on your needles at certain points, which can be quite difficult to squeeze on to straight needles. If you are comfortable with fitting that many stitches on longer straight needles, then you could certainly use them if you prefer!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
What is the price of that yarn?
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing in! You can find all the details on our Cashmere Merino Bloom, including price, yardage, and fiber content, on the Cashmere Merino Bloom product page.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Are stitches picked up for knitting the front band?
Hi Joyce,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, after knitting and assembling the rest of the cardigan, the front band is picked up and knit in one piece to finish the sweater.
Best,
Julianna
How would you make the cardigan longer? It looks a bit short for me. Thanks.
Hi Vicki,
Thanks for writing! Even though it is knit on the bias, we do give a measurement for the finished side body edge, which would be the length of the body at the underarm, so you can lengthen or shorten the sweater as needed before joining the sleeve pieces. You will just need to make sure you knit all the pieces of the cardigan – Left Front Body, Right Front Body, Left Back Body, and Right Back Body – to the same length, and you will also have to pick up extra stitches for the front band to match the added length.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am in the middle of a project now. When finished I look forward to
knitting this beautiful sweater
Hi there! Just finished a cowl and hat in the Cashmere Bloom and am in LOVE!! Can’t wait to make this sweater!! Can this easily be made longer? Thanks in advance for your reply.
Hi Lucy,
Thank you so much for the kind words and for writing in! Even though it is knit on the bias, we do give a measurement for the finished side body edge, which would be the length of the body at the underarm, so you can lengthen or shorten the sweater as needed before joining the sleeve pieces. You will just need to make sure you knit all the pieces of the cardigan – Left Front Body, Right Front Body, Left Back Body, and Right Back Body – to the same length, and you will also have to pick up extra stitches for the front band to match the added length.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Can the pattern be adjusted for a longer cardigan?
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! Even though it is knit on the bias, we do give a measurement for the finished side body edge, which would be the length of the body at the underarm, so you can lengthen or shorten the sweater as needed before joining the sleeve pieces. You will just need to make sure you knit all the pieces of the cardigan – Left Front Body, Right Front Body, Left Back Body, and Right Back Body – to the same length, and you will also have to pick up extra stitches for the front band to match the added length.
Best,
Julianna
Am loving this cardigan pattern but would like it to be a little longer. Should I order one extra skein of yarn?
Hi Bonnie,
Thanks for reaching out! Depending how much length you would like to add, I would suggest ordering an extra skein or two of yarn just to be on the safe side. If you don’t end up needing it, any unwound yarn can be returned for store credit – you can read our full return policy here.
Best,
Julianna
An I adjust the sleeve length with this pattern?
Hi Rita,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you can adjust the sleeve length easily! Even though it is knit on the bias, we do give a measurement for the finished bottom sleeve selvedge, which would be the length of the sleeve at the underarm, which you can lengthen or shorten as needed.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I would love this as a jumper / sweater. Love the back design for
front as well. Cosy as a jumper so not needing to keep the
two front panels from flapping about.
I have short arms. Does this sweater pattern allow for shortening arms easily?
Hi Shirley,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you can adjust the sleeve length easily! Even though it is knit on the bias, we do give a measurement for the finished bottom sleeve selvedge, which would be the length of the sleeve at the underarm, which you can lengthen or shorten as needed.
Best,
Julianna
Hello, PS!
Would that pattern work with Lamb’s Pride Worsted?
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for reaching out! Our Cashmere Merino Bloom is a DK weight yarn, so a worsted weight yarn would probably be a bit too heavy – although you could probably obtain the correct gauge with a worsted yarn, the fabric would be much stiffer than ours and the cardigan wouldn’t have as much drape. I would suggest looking for a DK weight yarn!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This is beautiful! What would say is the skill level? I’ve done hats and socks but never a sweater.
Hi Eniky,
Thanks for reaching out! I would consider this an advanced beginner to intermediate pattern – although the sweater is comprised of simple knitting, increasing, and decreasing, there are often several different increases and decreases going on at once. Although it’s not a project you can knit mindlessly, as long as you keep careful track of which row you are on, the techniques used aren’t too complicated and you should be familiar with almost everything if you have done hats and socks! If you do run into any problems, you can always check out Tutorials page or write back here with questions.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, this is so beautiful and looks like my style. How would you rank the difficulty of this sweater? Also, are the pieces sewn together or are they knit in a single piece? If sewn, how many pieces are there?
Thanks so much!
Hi Alison,
Great questions! I would consider this an advanced beginner to intermediate pattern – although the sweater is comprised of simple knitting, increasing, and decreasing, there are often several different increases and decreases going on at once. Although it’s not a project you can knit mindlessly, as long as you keep careful track of which row you are on, the techniques used aren’t too complicated. You will have four pieces to sew together using Mattress Stitch before picking up stitches for the front band.
If you do run into any problems, you can always check out Tutorials page or write back here with questions.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
How easy is to shorten the sleeves on this pattern? Thanks.
Hi Michele,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, you can adjust the sleeve length easily! Even though it is knit on the bias, we do give a measurement for the finished bottom sleeve selvedge, which would be the length of the sleeve at the underarm, so you can lengthen or shorten as needed.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Is there enough ease in the sweater for a man to wear?
Hi Thomas,
Great question! Since our sweater sizes are given as finished chest measurements, you can choose whichever size has the amount of ease you prefer! We recommend 4 to 8 inches of positive ease and showed it on our model with 8 inches of positive ease, but if you prefer more, you can always choose a larger size.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I love the look and with all the pickups and decreases it’s a bit Elizabeth Zimmerman. With that said, has anyone attempted all one piece?
Hello Melinda,
Thank you for your insights! This is a fascinating thought and would certainly be a challenge, if it is possible.
Happy knitting,
Marilla
This is a beautiful sweater! Is there a way to pick up and knit the front/neckband so the joining is a bit more finished looking? Something like an i-cord perhaps?
Hello Jennifer,
Thank you for reaching out! Adding an I-cord edge would be a fairly simple modification to add, and would create a more curved edge at the two corners of this cardigan. We used this technique in our Drift Vest with much success- I would take a look to see if it is what you had in mind.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
The Drift Vest is beautiful, and I love that tweedy yarn. But I was thinking of the i-cord not at the edge, but between the border of the wide band and the body of the Incline – Decline sweater. Picking up and knitting stitches always looks a little rough, even when done by your professional, talented knitters.
Hello Jennifer,
This is a fascinating idea! I have never put an i-cord into a sweater in this way. but you could certainly experiment with it. I would try it out on a little swatch and see what happens.
Let us know how it goes!
-Marilla
I started the pattern and on Page 3, Shape Sleeve, I am confused by the increases. I started the sleeve with 35 stitches on my needle, row 1 brings it to 34 stitches, row 3 down to 33 stitches. With the increase row, it brings it up to 34 stitches again. However, every row 1 decreases 2 stitches and with 1 stitch increase every 4th row, I will never end up with 54 stitches on my needle. I am really missing something…help! Thanks!
HI Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help! In this section, row 1 will maintain the number of stitches as it has one increase and once decrease. the ssk near the beginning decreases one stitch and the m1R at the end increase by one stitch so that you have the same number of stitches as when you began the row. I think the confusion may come in that we describe the ssk and then put the abbreviation in parentheses which sould lead you do accidentally doing 2 ssks. The row reads:
K2, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to last 3 stitches, m1R, k3.
Written out in standard abbreviated form would read:
K2, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, m1R, k3.
I do hope that this helps to clear things up!
Cassy
Hi Cassy, Thank you for your reply. I know what happened and your answer helped out. When I read the Notes on Page 2 before casting on, the S2KP stitch stuck in my mind. When I got to the Shape Sleeve section, I knit that instead of the SSK! I was determined to figure this out as this is a wonderful pattern that I will wear a lot. Thanks again!
Love that cardigan. Is it possible to knit it longer?
Hello Monika,
Thank you for reaching out! Even though it is knit on the bias, we do give a measurement for the finished side body edge, which would be the length of the body at the underarm, so you can lengthen or shorten the sweater as needed before joining the sleeve pieces. You will just need to make sure you knit all the pieces of the cardigan – Left Front Body, Right Front Body, Left Back Body, and Right Back Body – to the same length, and you will also have to pick up extra stitches for the front band to match the added length.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I have just begun knitting this and have a question: I am just beginning the left front sleeve. On every wrong side row, after knitting up to the last stitch, it says to slip the last stitch. Should I be bringing my yarn to the front before slipping the last stitch ? I think so, because the next right side row begins with a K1. Am I thinking correctly? Thanks.
Hello Valerie,
Thank you for reaching out! You are absolutely correct. For this pattern you will be slipping stitches purlwise with yarn in front unless directed otherwise.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Love this pattern. Have finished left front. Am wondering if it can be adapted to stockinette rather than garter if I make another?
Hi Ann,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, due to the drastic difference in row gauge between garter and stockinette stitch and how much the construction of this cardigan relies on both row and stitch gauge, I don’t think you will be able to substitute stockinette stitch without major alterations. I’m so sorry about that, but I’m very happy to hear that you are enjoying the pattern so far!
Best,
Julianna
Hi, enjoying this immensely..I have a question..
I am about to “join body and sleeve”. it directs to place 3 stitches on stitch holders or scrap yarn..as holders is plural, does that mean 2 separate holders?thanks
Hello Robyn,
Thank you for reaching out! You are placing 3 stitches from beginning of right-side
body row (Side edge) and 3 stitches from end of right-side Sleeve row (Bottom Sleeve) on SEPARATE stitch holders or scrap yarn.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am at this point too and being very new to knitting, I have a few questions.
Why do we do this (put stitches on stitch holders)?
Is the side edge of the body piece the left and shorter side ?
The next instruction is to transfer remaining stitches onto needles, then to start knitting again. Does this mean we DO NOT knit the stitches on the stitches on stitch holders?
Hi Alicia,
Thanks for reaching out! The side edge of the left front is the side that is at the beginning of right side rows, and should be the longer side of the rectangle. These held stitches will together become the underarm seam, so you will not be knitting them right now, but will return to them at the very end when you are putting all the pieces of the sweater together. You can just leave them on their holders for now and work on the rest of the stitches!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Besides being incredibly stylish – this is simply a brilliantly conceived pattern – one of the best I’ve ever tackled. I just finished the sweater using a substitute yarn – Berroco Ultra Wool, a worsted super wash wool in 100gr skeins, that was a perfect match for yardage and gauge.
The instructions read a little clunky at times, I had to chart some things out as an aid, but it really came together beautifully. Not a bit of wasted yarn; every yarn end could be used to sew up a seam; and counting the selvage slip stitches ensured that each piece ended up exactly the same length. Casting off the band was probably the trickiest bit, but I found instructions for a “Suspended” cast off that prevented the last row shortening up. It worked like a charm.
Thank you!
A
I’m very much enjoying knitting this beautiful pattern, which I’m making in a DK cotton. My question pertains to page 4 and the shaping of the v-neck. The directions simply say “repeat rows 1 and 2 until Left Front measures 14 inches along side edge…ending with a wrong side row.” There is no indication of how many times this decrease should be repeated, nor of the number of stitches that should remain once the decreases are done. The following section does nothing to clear up the mystery. Could you please provide stitch counts for the various steps in the pattern? You seem to do this at many other points. Thanks very much for the help!
Hi Tracey,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! Although it doesn’t seem like it, your stitch count should stay the same in this section as you begin working the straight portion of the front.. In Row 1, you will M1L at the beginning and K2tog at the end of the row which balances each other out, and there are no increases or decreases in Row 2.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi,I am on Page 10 “join back body pieces”
however, this is my concern/confusion..when I transfer left back body stitches to needle with right back body piece, with RS facing, the selvedge edges are on opposite sides(not joined) is this correct? doesn’t seem right.
Have I done something backwards?
many thanks..love love this…
HI Robyn,
Great question! This is correct! You will transfer the stitches and then knit them together in the next row labeled “Joining Row”!
Best,
Cassy
Hi there, I am sewing up my shoulder/arm seams now..as its garter stitch, and selvedge edges, are there any particular instructions using mattress stitch??..instructions in pattern say to sew from wrong side..usually mattress stitch is sewn from right side, so seam is inside..
the photos show nice flat seams of selvedge edge..how do you achieve that?
thanks for you help as always..
Hello Robyn,
Thank you for reaching out- you are exactly correct! The pattern instructs you to “With wrong sides together, match Fronts to Back” This means that the right side of your cardigan will be facing you.
I hope this clears things up for you and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I planning on making this sweater with an alpaca/wool yarn that, according to the ball band, has the same gauge. But….I’m having to go down to a size 3 needle to get gauge. That’s not typical of my knitting. What’s wrong?
Hi June,
Thanks for writing in! It’s hard to say what exactly is going wrong without seeing the yarn you are substituting, but that is quite a jump! However, exact needle sizes are always a suggestion, so as long as you are happy with the drape and feel of the knitted fabric on US 3s and you are getting the correct gauge, your sweater will turn out just fine. If you find that the fabric is too stiff, the yarn may just not be a good fit for this pattern.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have my grandmother’s Bernat Mohairspun wools.-(at least 40 years old) Would this work pattern well with it? If not, could you suggest a pattern that might make a nice cardigan? The wool is 66% pure mohair, 17% virgin wool and 17% nylon. Purl Soho has the best patterns-thanks!
Hello Carol,
Thank you for reaching out- How special to knit up a sweater with your grandmother’s yarn! I would reccomend knitting up a gauge swatch to see how many stitches per inch you are getting. Once you have this info we can figure out a good pattern to pair your yarn with.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Love the sweater, but yesterday I frogged the entire thing. My pieces measured much longer than I believe they should have. I finally understood the construction of the back pieces, but the front was just looking too long. It measured more than 24” and I could not figure out the construction — how to piece it together. I have just finished the Left Front Sleeve shaping up to the point where I am supposed to knot repeating rows 1 and 2 until sleeve measures 18 1/2” along Bottom Sleeve selvedge (edge at end of right side rows), ending with a wrong side row.
Can you please tell me which selvedge I should measure? One is straight and the curved and I don’t see this on the diagram. I’m desperately trying not to have to rio again as the yarn is not as smooth as it was when it was new.
Thanks!
Hello Fran,
Thank you for reaching out! To construct the front of your your cardigan you will first you will work Left Front Sleeve to Underarm,then place stitches on hold. Next, you will work Left Front Body, beginning at lower Side seam and working to
Underarm, where you will join Body with Sleeve and work in one piece to upper edge.
When the pattern says to “Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until sleeve measures 18 (18, 18½, 18½, 18¾, 18¾) inches along Bottom Sleeve selvedge (edge at end of right-side rows), ending with a wrong-side row.” You basically be measuring from your cuff to your underarm. You can see this in the diagram of the arm piece.
I hope this helps, but please let me know if you are still confused!
Happy knitting,
-Marilla
I think this is a lovely sweater even though what I’m about to write sounds a big negative. It’s not meant to be. Here goes. In looking at the sample, the way the front band is picked up looks, for lack of a better word, a bit sloppy and not quite as fluid as the rest of the sweater. I’ve read the other comment asking how the front band is done and you say it’s picked up and finished last. Why the weird uneveness at the pick up? I don’t want my finished project to look like this.
Hi Leigh,
Thanks for reaching out, and I apologize for the delay in responding! Picking up from the edge of garter stitch can at times look a bit messy, so I would suggest practicing on a few swatches until you find a method you like. Our Picking Up Stitches tutorial has a video for garter stitch, and we recommend picking up between the garter stitch ridges, but in some fabrics, picking up in the edge bump of the garter ridges may give a tidier look, though it’s less sturdy and wouldn’t be suitable for heavy knits. Hopefully one of these two methods gives you the tidy finish you are looking for!
Best,
Julianna
I’m about to finish the first sleeve piece. It says to transfer to stitch holders then cast on three stitches. Should I’ve trying to cast close to the end of the knitting or do I leave some space?
Hello Alicia,
Thank you for reaching out! These two acts are separate from each other. You will place your stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn. You will come back to these in the “JOIN BODY + SLEEVE” section. First you will work Left Front Sleeve to Underarm, then place stitches on hold. Next, you will work Left Front Body, beginning at lower Side seam and working to Underarm, where you will join Body with Sleeve and work in one piece to upper edge.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thank you for your reply. However after some thinking, I realized the answer I needed was to cast on from a new skein of yarn.
I am knitting the Left front sleeve and am to the point where I have 33 stitches on my needles, My piece does not measure approximately 4 1/2 inches along the cuff selvedge. (It is 4 inches). What should I do? Thank you!
Hi Elise,
Thanks for writing in! Did you check your gauge before beginning the sweater? I would recommend measuring your stitches and rows per inch on the piece that you have done currently and see how that compares to the pattern gauge. It’s not unheard of for ones gauge to change a bit from the gauge swatch to the actual garment, and that would explain this measurement being off.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love this pattern and am knitting it in your cashmere merino bloom. I’m very confused right now, though, and am hoping that you can help me. I’m joining the back body pieces. I thought I followed the directions but found myself with the two knit-three edges at the outside of the joined two pieces instead of in the middle. When I look at the picture of the back, it appears that the knit-three edges should be in the middle and then, perhaps, sewn together at the end. Is this correct? If that is correct, I feel that the right back piece is the left and the left side piece is really the right side. And then I can’t figure out how to join the pieces together. What have I done wrong😕? Thanks so much for your help. I can’t wait to wear my sweater.
Carol
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so sorry to hear this! While I am not quite sure where things may have gone wrong, I can confirm that the knit 3 stitch edge should be in the center for each piece. In the portion of the pattern for the “LEFT BACK BODY”, you will see that on right side rows, the knit 3 will be at the beginning of the row which would place it in the middle of the back. For the “RIGHT BACK BODY”, the knit 3 will be at the end of right side rows also placing it in the middle of the body.
The back body pieces are begun separately and then joined together in the “JOIN BACK BODY PIECES” section and then knit as one for the bulk of the back of the sweater. In essence, each back piece is started and then knit until the correct number of stitches is achieved and then the pieces are joined together and worked as one piece with the decorative column of knit stitches in the middle.
My best guess is that it may be possible that you have flipped the pieces before going to join them. To join the pieces, you will want to orient both pieces with the right sides facing you. The left side should be on hold with the knit 3 stitches being at the right side of the fabric and the right side should be on the needles with the knit three being at the left side of the fabric. You then transfer the on-hold Left Back Body stitches to needles with Right Back Body stitches, so that you would work across Right Back Body, then Left Back Body stitches when beginning with a right-side row. That is to say that the right back body piece will be on the right of your needle and the left would be on the left. You will then work the joining row to get them together and form the middle decorative column of stitches.
I do hope that this helps!
Cassy
I have found that the bias sleeves ‘grow’ as would fabric that is cut on the bias. I had made accommodations for the length of my arms (being 6’ tall, I have long arms), but now they seem too long, since the knit fabric has grown. Can I block them back to size or will they continue to grow?
Many thanks,
Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Although you can block the sleeves shorter, it’s hard to say if they will stay shorter since garter stitch is quite elastic and the weight of the sleeves may stretch it right back out when worn. I would recommend washing and blocking a swatch, measuring your row gauge, and then hanging the swatch for a few days with a small weights, such as binder clips, attached to the bottom to mimic the sweater being worn. You can then measure your row gauge again to see how much it stretches out over time. It’s a bit tricky to apply this information directly to this sweater since the sleeves are knit on the bias, but this should give you an idea of how well the blocking will last!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am stuck on how to do the join body plus sleeve, pg 4 of Incline pattern. Could you post a diagram of the shapes that the two pieces should be for left bottom sleeve and left body at this step? I must have something wrong. Also, a diagram of the shapes loaded onto the same needle? Thank you.
Hello Crystal,
Thank you for reaching out! While we do not currently have the resources to produce new diagrams I can certainly do my best to help you! You are basically adding your on hold sleeve stitches to your body stitches with each set of your on-hold stitches together at your Underarm. You should have your Left Front Sleeve to Underarm, your Left Front Body, beginning at lower Side seam and working to underarm, where you will join Body with Sleeve and work in one piece to upper edge.
I hope this makes sense- if it is still causing you grief let us know and we can further trouble shoot the issue with you.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello, I have bought this pattern . Is it possible to download it in my Raverly ‘s librairy?
Thank you and 👏🏻For this pattern
Hi Mary,
Great question! You absolutely can add this pattern to your Ravelry library! First, make sure you’re signed into your Purl Soho account, then click your name in the top left corner of any page to go to My Dashboard. There, click My Downloadable Products in the left margin. You will see a list of all the downloadable patterns you have bought from Purl Soho. In the Ravelry column to the right, click on “Add To Ravelry.” When you do, it will change to “View On Ravelry.” Click that and you’ll be taken to Ravelry’s homepage, where you can navigate right to your library!
Best,
Thanks, it’s ok . I do like knitting this pattern though it isn’t in French ❣️
Hi – I wish you would offer just a few of your patterns in plus sizes – while I constantly work on my weight and fitness – I’m not quit there and I would love to be able to make this cardigan or a few of your other designs for myself. Thanks for considering-
Melissa
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for reaching out! We really do appreciate that bodies come in all shapes and sizes and share your concern that patterns be as inclusive as possible. Since last spring, all of our new sweaters fit at least a 60-inch chest. We have also been updating older patterns with the same, but I’m so sorry that this pattern hasn’t been graded to our new size range yet! We are still working to add new sizes to all of our patterns, but in the mean time, you can view a gallery of our new and updated sweaters by clicking right here!
All the best,
Julianna
Please be on the lookout, and thank you so much for adding your voice to this issue. We take your feedback very seriously!
I am looking for the directions for the left front sleeve. Please advise re page number. Note: the pattern, which i bought from Purl Soho, seems to have no page 3 – page 2 is followed immediately by page 4. Could that be the problem?
Hi Cecelia,
Thanks for reaching out! I am so sorry to hear this! The pattern begins on page 3. I am so sorry to hear that your pattern does not contain this page. We are writing directly to you to help out!
Best,
Cassy
I seem to be getting an irregular edge with the SSKP – I’ve seen your video, and I believe I’m doing it right. I’m thinking to slip each of the two stitches KW one at at time, K1, then passing the SS over the K1 – thoughts?
Otherwise fantastic design, and the merino cashmere yarn is wonderful to knit.
L
Hi Lyndsay,
Thank you so much for the kind words, and I hope I can help troubleshoot this for you! Can you let me know which section of the pattern the SSKP is creating an issue in?
Best,
Julianna
Whoops – I misread SSK as SSKP. It’s all good! Thanks.
Near the end! Casting off the band to see that last row shortering up 🙁 Which cast on to prevent this? (it’s difficult to explain in english sorry)
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m not entirely sure what you mean, but it sounds like you might be casting off too tightly, causing the final row to pucker or pull in. If that’s the case, I would suggest using a needle one or two sizes larger to work the cast off – that should help loosen things up! If that doesn’t answer your question, please feel free to send us a picture of your work at customerservice@purlsoho.com and we will be happy to take a look!
Best,
Julianna
Hi Julianna,
Yes that was what I mean and I found on youtube The suspended Bindoff which is more elastic. Thank you, I am very happy with the result.
I’m at the point of assembling this garment. I want my seams to look as professional as the photographs. Do you have any tutorials you could recommend as to how to best seam this, or should I just seam the slipped stitches?
Hi Margaret,
That’s a great question! Our mattress stitch tutorial will guide you the seaming. This pattern instructs you to “With wrong sides together, match Fronts to Back” This means that the right side of your cardigan will be facing you, before you start seaming. I hope this helps!
Please reach out if you have any more questions.
Best
Jessica