Cross Back Apron
This year, my husband’s Irish parents are coming to town for their first Thanksgiving ever (can you believe they’ve never tasted pumpkin pie?!). As the resident American in the family, I am nervous about everything from overcooked turkey to undercooked stuffing, so I’ve decided to focus on the one detail I know I can get right: the cooking attire!
This lovely Cross Back Apron is so elegant that it feels almost like a new dress, but functional cover-up it is! I designed it to be loose and easy, so that when I bend over to baste the bird or reach up to grab the pie pan, I know I’ll feel comfortable. It also has durable French seams, generous side pockets, and full coverage (no gravy splatters on the holiday duds!).
Sewn up in three pretty colors of Purl Soho’s Handkerchief Linen, our Cross Back Apron is sturdy, practical, and very beautiful. If nothing else, I know I’ll be dressed for a very successful mess! -Corinne
Update: New Fabric
July 16, 2016
We sewed a new version of this classic apron in our very own Watercolor Linen! To see the full list of materials please check out our Cross Back Apron in Watercolor Linen story here.
Update: Now in Spectrum Cotton
May 2021
Soft and simple, our Spectrum Cotton makes the perfect apron. To see the full list of materials please check out our Cross Back Apron in Spectrum Cotton story here.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
- 1 ¾ yards of Purl Soho’s Handkerchief Linen, 56-60 inches wide. We used the colors Redwood, Persimmon, and Desert.
- A 110-yard spool of Gutermann’s Cotton Sewing Thread to coordinate with the fabric. We used 4850 for Redwood, 4860 for Persimmon, and 1140 for Desert.
Or…
- 2¼ yards of Purl Soho’s Spectrum Cotton, 100% cotton, 45 inches wide. We used Yellow Ochre.
- A 110-yard spool of Gutermann’s Cotton Sewing Thread to coordinate with the fabric. We used color 1685.
Size
One size fits many.
Notes
Prewash, dry, and iron the fabric before starting.
For the sake of clarity our instructional photos use a fabric with a clear right and wrong side. When you are working with a fabric without a clear right or wrong side, choose either side as the right side for the first seam and follow this precedent for all subsequent steps.
Pattern
Cut
Use the cutting layout and measurements below to cut a total of 11 pattern pieces from the fabric.
Cutting Layout: 45 Inch Wide Fabric
Cutting Layout: 56-60 Inch Wide Fabric
Measurements
Prepare the Straps
Fold one Strap in half lengthwise and press to create a crease. Open up the fold. Now, fold the two long, raw edges to meet the center crease and press. Fold the Strap in half lengthwise so that the raw edges are encased in the fold and press.
Sew along both long edges of the Strap with an edgestitch.
Repeat with the other Strap piece.
Prepare the Back
Fold one long edge of one Back piece ½ inch toward the wrong side twice, press and pin. Sew along the folded edge with an edgestitch.
Repeat with the other Back piece.
With the wrong side facing up and the long hemmed edge running along the right side, fold the top edge of the Back piece ½ inch toward the wrong side twice, press, and pin.
Tuck one short, raw edge of one Strap piece into the top hem of the Back, so that the long edge of the Strap runs along the long hemmed edge of the Back. Pin in place.
Sew along the top hem of the Back with an edgestitch, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam.
Fold the Strap up at the seam and press. Sew the Strap to the top edge of the Back piece’s top hem. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Repeat with the other Back piece and Strap, with one exception: When you start, the long hem of the Back piece should run along the left side. When you are finished, the two pieces should be mirror images of each other.
Prepare the Side Pockets
For each Side Pocket, you will need 3 Pocket Pieces: one each of Pocket A, Pocket B, and Pocket C.
Right Side Pocket
The image above shows the shape of the Right Side Pocket pieces with their right sides facing up. The slope of Pocket B runs opposite the slopes of Pockets A and C.
Sew a line of stay stitching ½ inch from the top sloped edge of Pocket A. This will help prevent the bias-cut edge from stretching out in subsequent seams.
Fold the top edge of Pocket A ½ inch toward the wrong side twice, press and pin. Sew along the bottom folded edge with an edgestitch. Clip off any overhanging fabric so that the side edge runs straight.
Set Pocket A aside.
With right sides together, stack Pockets B and C on top of each other, lining up their top sloped edges. Pin in place. Sew along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Fold along the seam line so that the wrong sides of the two Pocket pieces are now facing each other, press, and pin. Sew along the top folded edge with a ½-inch seam allowance.
Now, with wrong sides facing, stack Pocket B on top of Pocket A so that their bottom raw edges are aligned. Pin in place. Sew along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Fold along the seam line so that the right sides of Pockets A and B are facing each other and press. Pin Pockets A and B together along the folded edge. Sew along the pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance.
This is now the Side Pocket.
Lay the Side Pocket out flat with the right side facing up. Orient the Side Pocket so that A is at the top and C is at the bottom, then fold along the seam between pieces A and B so that B lies flat on A (right sides together). Next, fold C down so that its sloped edge runs parallel with the sloped edge of A. All the raw side edges should be aligned.
Pin along all layers of the side edges, and sew along the pinned edges with an 1/8-inch seam allowance.
Left Side Pocket
The image above shows the shape of the Left Side Pocket pieces with their right sides facing up. The slope of Pocket B runs opposite the slopes of Pockets A and C.
Repeat all the steps of the Right Side Pocket, using the Left Side Pocket pieces.
Attach the Side Pockets to the Back
With their wrong sides together, stack one Side Pocket on top of one Back. Align the shorter side edge of the Side Pocket with the long raw edge of the Back piece.
Also align the bottom edges of the two pieces. When you do, you will notice that the Back is slightly taller than the Side Pocket. The top edge of the Side Pocket piece should hit the top edge of the Back about ¾ inch in from the raw edges (see above).
Pin the two pieces together along the aligned side edge. Start the French seam by sewing along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Fold along the seam line so that the right sides of the Side Pocket and Back are now facing. Press and pin. Sew along the pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam.
Press the seam toward the Back and finish the French seam by sewing it down ¼ inch from the seamline. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
This is now the Side.
Repeat with the other Side Pocket and Back. The two Side pieces should be mirror images of each other.
Attach the Sides to the Body
With their wrong sides together, stack one Side piece on top of the Body, so that the raw side edge of the Side aligns with one long edge of the Body. Also align the bottom edges of the two pieces. Pin in place along the long side edge.
Make another French seam, starting by sewing along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Fold along the seam line so that the right sides are now facing. Press and pin along the fold. Sew along the fold with a ½-inch seam allowance, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam.
Make a small, ¼-inch clip into the seam allowance, following the slope of the Side piece so that the unsewn side edge of the Body can lie flat.
Press the seam allowance toward the Body. When you reach the unsewn side edge of the Body, press that raw edge toward the wrong side, following the seam line.
Tuck the raw edge of this seam allowance ¼ inch under the fold, following the line of the seam allowance below. Press.
Repeat with the other Side piece on the other side of the Body.
Fold the Top Hem
Fold the top edge of the Body ½ inch toward the wrong side and press. Now fold the top edge 2 inches toward the wrong side and press.
Open up the side ½-inch folds of the Body. Next, open the 2-inch fold along the top edge and refold it toward the right side along its crease. Keep the ¼-inch folds along the side edges and the ½-inch fold along the top in place.
Pin the last fold you made in place along the side edges.
Sew the fold down along the side edges with a ½-inch seam allowance (you can use the hem creases as a guide). Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Fold the top hem back toward the wrong side and press. Poke the corners out neatly.
Attach the Straps
Bring the unsewn ends of the Straps to the front of the Apron. The Straps should cross in the back, but be careful that they do not get twisted.
For the most accurate fit, try the Apron on and play with the length of the Straps. Once you like the fit, place a pin through the Straps, right where they hit the top edge of the Apron. The pin only marks the Strap; it does not attach the Strap to the Apron.
Trim the raw edge of the marked Strap 2 ½ inches from the pin.
Cut the other Strap so that it is equal in length to the first.
Tuck the raw edge of one Strap ½ inch into the top hem of the Apron. If you are pulling the Strap from the left side of the Apron, tuck it into the right corner of the hem (as shown here), or vice versa. Make sure that the Strap is not twisted. Pin in place.
Repeat with the other Strap.
Pin along the folds of the top hem. Sew along the pinned edge, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam.
Fold the Straps up along the seam line and press. Pin in place.
Sew along the entire top edge of the Apron with an edgestitch. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Finish the French seam you started by sewing along the side edges of the Body so that the seam runs ¼ inch in from the edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seams.
Hem
Fold the bottom edge of the Apron ¼ inch toward the wrong side and press. Now fold the bottom edge 1 inch toward the wrong side, press and pin. Sew the hem down with an edgestitch, Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Update 2024: You can explore our current collection of beautiful fabrics and supplies on our page of Sewing Tools + Notions!
I made one of these when I was in what they called then Home Ech in High School and LOVED it. Needed less to say it went the way of all great aprons many years ago. But now at 71 I am going to attempt to make another one. Thank you for the pattern and the reminder.
I never wear an apron but this is such a beautiful pattern I’m going to make one and hopefully wear it too. I might decrease to the size of the pattern and make a few for the grandchildren.
How serendipitous!! I just spent over an hour looking for a cross-over apron pattern with little luck then I go into check my email and your pattern is there. Will make it in time for Thanksgiving!! Thanks
I so, so love this. Perfect!
Thank you.
Apologies in advance for ignorance…is the pattern meant to be printed and enlarged? Or is the intention to measure the size of each piece and cut them that way?
Hi Micheel –
Thank you for writing in. This is a great question!
There are no pattern pieces for this project. The Cutting Measurements and Cutting Guide are designed to help you cut the proper shapes and proportions from your fabric, but aren’t meant to be printed and cut out.
To make the cuts more manageable, I recommend using a rotary cutter with a clear quilting ruler on a self-healing cutting mat. This will make the long straight cuts much easier and more precise than with scissors. If you don’t have these supplies already, we’ve compiled everything you need in our Rotary Cutting Tool Kit! Also, I started by cutting the long strap pieces perpendicular to the selvage first, and then cut the strips that run parallel to the selvage next. This meant I was working with smaller pieces when going in to make my diagonal cuts.
I hope all of this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on the project!
-Corinne
Thanks so much, Corinne!
I loved this pattern, however misread the front piece pattern width As it is on the fold, I measured 13″ from the fold as I didn’t realize the usual if that piece was the width when opened up. I should have halved that as the front is of course much too large. Am going to pleat on each side which should take care of the extra fabric. Straps seem very long as well – the whole project was a great learning experience and one I would do again.
I meant visual of that piece
🙂 Got it! Thanks!
Thanks for writing in Shawn! We are so happy to hear the project was a great learning experience!
Keith
I now believe that Purl Soho has the ability to read my mind! Not only do I love this apron, it is exactly what I envisioned a much needed new apron too be! Thank you and now for the color decision…..
Julie
This is a great tutorial for a lovely apron, thanks so much:). Much cuter and more flattering than the one I just made myself (darn it) from a tute I found thru interest for a version of a Japanese artisan apron. I wouldn’t mind another one so…. but isn’t handkerchief linen meant to be very light and soft? Wouldn’t a thick linen work better for this style? Re the straps, is the part that’s attached to the edges at the back waist cut at an angle, please?
Thanks again!
Hi Francesca –
Thank you so much for your kind words about this pattern! And, I agree, one can never have enough aprons!
The handkerchief linen is light and airy, but still a great, sturdy fabric. I love it for this project because it gives the Apron a lovely drape and is so light and easy to wear. You could certainly make the Apron out of a thicker fabric, like our Warsa Linen, but I wonder if it might end up being a little too stiff, particularly along the long French seams that run down the sides of the Pockets.
I hope this helps with your fabric choice! Please let us know if you have any other questions as you work on this project!
-Corinne
OK, just went thru the tute again and saw strap is straight – sorry!
Ha! No problem at all. Glad you found it!
-Corinne
Hello and thanks again for the beautiful and functional pattern! I have been wanting to make an apron for a long time friend who loves to cook for our Christmas exchange gift. She will love this apron. I am not a seasoned seamstress so I do have a pondering question. My friend is short and round. How can I go about getting the right measurements so this apron would fit properly for her. Also, I’m believing that cooking stains come out easily from this type of linen material(?)
Thank you so much!! Visited your awesome store in NY City last year. I live in Florida.
Happy Thanksgiving
Hello Wanda Smith –
Thank you for writing in, and for all your kind words about this project and our shop! This Apron will make a lovely and very thoughtful gift for your friend!
To adjust the sizing for the Apron to fit the body type you describe, I recommend adding 1 or 2 inches to the width of the Body piece, and subtracting 1 inch in length (so, cutting to 14 or 15 inches x 37 inches instead of the 13 x 38 inches recommended in the pattern) and adding an additional inch in width to each of the Back pieces (cutting to 9 1/2 instead of 8 1/2). This will add 3-4 inches to the overall circumference of the Apron (of course, you can add more width too, if you think you will need it) and shorten the length of the front bib. However, I recommend keeping the width of all Pocket pieces as they are.
To adjust the length, I recommend trimming the Apron to the desired length when you are folding up the final hem.
Please keep in mind that if you do make these adjustments to the width of the pattern pieces, you will need to adjust the Cutting Layout to accommodate the larger pieces, and will most likely need additional yardage.
I hope all of this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on this project!
-Corinne
You have done it again, just beautiful. I am blind I can’t seem to find link for pattern pieces?
Hello Helen –
Thank you for your kind words about this pattern! I’m so glad you are inspired to make it!
You aren’t missing anything as there are no printable pattern pieces for this project! The Cutting Measurements and Cutting Guide are designed to help you cut the proper shapes and proportions from your fabric, but aren’t meant to be printed and cut out. I hope that these guides will make it easy for you to cut all the pieces you need. Please let me know if you have any questions along the way!
Happy sewing!
-Corinne
Do you have a kids’ or tweens’ sized pattern for this apron? Thanks.
Hi Lauren Kinter –
This is a great question, and a great idea! Unfortunately, we don’t have this pattern available in smaller sizes at the moment, but we do have a great Kid’s Ric Rac Apron that is designed to fit children ages 2-10!
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
I have been looking for this exact type of apron for what seems like eons! Thank you for the super pattern and fantastic instructions!
Love this! I would really like to make this for my mother-in-law for Christmas–she’s a big cook. However, she is TINY: like 5 feet tall and no more than 90 pounds. I’m concerned that the one-size-fits-most might not work. I’m wondering if you think it would be too big, and if so, if you had any suggestions for how I might alter the pattern to make a smaller version.
Thanks!
Hi Kirsten –
Thank you for writing in! This would make a lovely and very thoughtful gift for your mother-in-law!
To adjust the sizing for the Apron to fit the body type you describe, I recommend subtracting 1 or 2 inches in width and 2 inches in length from the Body piece (so, cutting to 11 or 12 inches x 36 inches instead of the 13 x 38 inches recommended in the pattern) and subtracting an inch in width from each of the Back pieces (cutting to 7 1/2 instead of 8 1/2). This will make the overall circumference of the Apron 3-4 inches smaller (of course, you can subtract more width too, if you think you will need it) and shorten the length of the front bib. However, I recommend keeping the width and length of all Pocket pieces as they are.
To adjust the length, I recommend trimming the Apron to the desired length when you are folding up the final hem.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on this project!
-Corinne
I was not able to download the pattern. I tried on my phone and when that didn’t work I tried to download on my iPad-a message said I had already gotten the download so I can’t download again. Can you help with this?
I love your email notices!
Hi Libby –
Thank you for writing in, and for your kind words about our projects and newsletter!
I’m not sure I completely understand your question, but let me try to help! This pattern is available as a free pattern on the Purl Soho / Create site. You can find it here whenever you are ready to work on the project, no downloads necessary! However, if you would like to download a PDF version of this project to your computer, you can do that too! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments. You can use this button to print the pattern, or save it as a PDF.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Press the PDF icon at the top of the pop-up window when you are ready to save.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions!
-Corinne
Great design! Is there any chance you could make a more printable version of this? 24pp. is too much. How about drawing, pattern layout, and instructions only in black and white? Much appreciated. Thank you.
Hi Susan –
I completely understand – Twenty-four pages is a lot to print out! Luckily, we have a way to fix this!
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
I hope this helps!
Please let us know if you have any other questions as you work on this project!
-Corinne
Thank you for this pattern! I have always wanted a cross-back pattern. You have some wonderful colors of linen!
I too have been looking for the pattern for this style of apron for ever! I was trying to pluck up the courage to attempt the pattern myself, but I am not a confident pattern maker. So thank you so much for posting one for us! I can’t wait to make this! Fearless holiday cooking, here we come!
The apron pattern calls for 1-3/4 yards of Handkerchief linen (60″ wide). If I use the Robert Kaufman fabric (45″ wide), can you tell me how much fabric I’ll need?
Hi Patricia –
This is a great question!
To make this Apron from a more narrow fabric, you will want to get an additional 3/4 yards, so a total of 2 1/2 yards.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
Make the straps only three layers of fabric rather than four and it will work easily from 2 yards of 44″. Across the width cut: 8.5″+8.5″ (pockets C, A and backs fit in 72″ length)+13″(front)+14″ (two straps width). Then you have enough for pockets B from the fabric below the front. Diagram is easier!
Wish I’d seen this before I cut. I only just now realize I didn’t order enough fabric at 42″ wide – ordered per materials list before looking at the layout. I’m making this as a gift for my mom who is 5′ so I figured the shorter strap length (42 vs 50″) would be ok, but now realize there isn’t enough width to cut the rest of the pieces, even if I shorten by 4″. Frustrating I didn’t look more closely at dimensions of the pieces first. I know better!
I’m making one of these for my sister who is about 5′-10″. Do you have an idea of how long the straps should be for someone her height? It’s a gift, so I don’t want her to try it on before hand to check the length.
Hello M Stack –
What a thoughtful and generous gift for your sister! She’ll love it!
As a starting point, our straps are cut to 32 inches long for a finished measurement of 28 1/2 inches for our model who is around 5’6″ and usually wears a size 2 or 4. The length of the straps varies mostly as actual garment size goes up, rather than height. So, if your sister generally wears a size 2 or 4, you can keep the strap length similar, otherwise I would add or subtract around 1/2 – 3/4 inch for each shift in garment size.
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any other questions!
-Corinne
This is a wonderful pattern – such a great idea – thank you! I did find that 50″ was very long for the straps – I only needed about 36″ of strap for my 5’6″ height. I used the Essex material which is 44″ wide – 2 yards was plenty. I love the French seams and top-stitching.
Hello Hilary –
Thank you for writing in, for your kind words about the Apron details, and for your pattern tips! I know your experience will help other readers as well.
Best,
-Corinne
Hillary – how were you able to cut this out from 2 yards at 44″ when it needs 47″ width (plus selvidge)? Love to know as I don’t have time to get more fabric. Thanks
I love this apron and appreciate the clear instructions since I am new to sewing. I have follow-on question from M. Stack regarding adjusting for height. I am 5’2” and wear size 2-4. Should I shorten the straps and the hemline? Or would it be better to adjust where the side pieces attach to the body and shorten to the hem. Oh boy, does that question even make sense? Thanks for your help!
Hi Devon –
Thank you for writing in! Your question makes perfect sense! Since you are making this for yourself, you have the perfect opportunity to get the fit just right!
I recommend piecing the Apron exactly as described up to the “Fold the Top Hem” section. At this point, rather than folding the Top Hem as described, try the Apron on and fold the Top edge over so that it falls in the perfect place for you. This allows you to adjust the length of the front bib so that it is perfect for your body shape and type. Mark the fold line. Trim the fabric 2 1/2 inches from the fold and hem as described. Once you have attached the Straps, you can try the Apron on again and adjust the length as desired, remembering to account for the 1 1/4-inch hem.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on this project!
-Corinne
I am having a slight issue with the pockets and back pieces. I can get a back piece and the pocket attached like the pattern says but the 2nd pocket will not lay on the 2nd back piece the same way. The long edge of the pocket is on the raw edge instead. Hopefully there is a fix for this, still love the pattern! Thank you.
Hi Stefanie –
This is a great question! I think I ran into this same issue as I was working on the project. My problem was that I had accidentally sewn my pocket pieces so that they were exactly alike, rather than mirror images of each other (a very easy mistake if you’re working with a fabric with no clear right or wrong side). Lay your two Pocket pieces out flat and check that they are actually mirror images of each other. If they aren’t, you’ll just need to take out the Pocket seams on one of the Pockets and resew so that it has the proper orientation. You should be able to reuse all the same cut fabric pieces.
If this isn’t the issue, let me know and we can troubleshoot together!
-Corinne
I think it may be helpful to write that on the directions for the pockets. I just did the same thing and it’s exasperating. That being said, I love the pattern and I am very excited to finally have this apron. Than you so much.
I agree with Reba. It would be good to insert your direction about mirror image at the point where the first pocket is created. At the moment, the directions say “Repeat with the remaining Pocket pieces.” I made the same mistake (my fabric looks the same front and back) because the directions (at this point) don’t mention mirror image. Only when I read down quite a bit further did I see “mirror image” and realize what I had done wrong.
Otherwise, I love the pattern.
Thank you Pajes! We are sorry the “mirror image” note caused you trouble but are happy to hear you are still in love with the pattern!
Thanks for writing in!
Keith
I found some novelty fabric that is perfect for my sister-in-law and reflects her interests. DoI need to do any of the cutting differently for a fabric with a right/wrong side? If this turns out, I’ll get some of that lovely linen for my mother-in-law.
Hi Karen –
This is a great question! You shouldn’t need to make any adjustments to the cutting layout to accommodate a fabric with a right and wrong side, the mirrored slope of the Pocket pieces is already accounted for. However, if your fabric has a specific orientation (a clear top and bottom), you will want to be sure to cut all the Pocket pieces so that their slopes are at the top. You will probably need about 1/4 yard of extra fabric to accommodate the change.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on the project!
-Corinne
Corinne, I love this pattern, really do. I suggest that you add to the materials list the varying amounts of fabric required if using 44″ and 60″ as well as for accommodating directional fabric. After realizing my 44″ wide (42 excluding selvidge) I’m not where near the required width to fit the pieces – and now see that with a directional print, there’s now way to make this work with 2 yards, and no time to order more. Not the end of the world – just a suggestion. Thank you!
Hello Melissa –
Thank you for writing in, and for your kind words about the pattern! I’m sorry you’ve found yourself without enough fabric to finish. That sounds really frustrating!
Unfortunately, we don’t have the resources to provide yardages for multiple fabric types for all of our free patterns, but we are always happy to help figure it out if you’ve got specific questions! For the fabric you are using (44-inch directional print) I recommend using a total of 2 3/4 yards of fabric. If you would like help with a modified cutting guide, please let us know!
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
What a wonderful pattern! Thank you so much! I really like the fact that you have both French seams and stylish pockets in this design.
Hi, I really like this pattern.
Should I measure and draw them? or is there any way to print this pattern ?
Hi Donghee –
This is a great question!
There are no printable pattern pieces for this project. The Cutting Measurements and Cutting Guide are designed to help you cut the proper shapes and proportions from your fabric, but aren’t meant to be printed and cut out. I hope that these guides will make it easy for you to cut all the pieces you need. Please let me know if you have any questions along the way!
-Corinne
Very nice pattern. Well written and photographed. I have wanted to make an apron like this for a while, thank you for providing it.
These are beautiful and look so light and flowing. They bring back memories from my daughter’s “non-traditional” school – every teacher wore these and looked so comfortable. I am curious about the durability of this lovely linen – is it washable enough? Will it stain too easily as an apron?
Hi Lisa –
Thank you for writing in! The fabric that we used for this project is lightweight, but since it is 100% linen it is very durable, even after washing. If you are worried about stains, I suggest using a darker shade. We have 23 gorgeous colors to choose from!
I hope this all helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on the project.
-Corinne
Thank you for another wonderful pattern! My calendar is crazy the next few months so I’m being careful to only tackle projects that I can finish in an afternoon. How long do you think this project would take for an “advanced beginner”? I read through all the steps and it seems pretty straightforward, but I’m clearly not experienced enough to know how long it’ll take me, if that gives you a sense of my sewing level. Thanks in advance!
Hi Hannah –
This is a great question! All of the sewing and piecing for this project is pretty straightforward, but the seams are long, and there are a lot of them! I found that with all the cutting, pressing, and sewing, each Apron took me about 4 hours from start to finish.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
I love this apron and am making it for a friend who was in a terrible dog fight and needs a pick me up.
I am struggling putting the pockets together. “Now with the wrong sides facing…” facing each other? facing the outside? I have taken it apart so many times. Please help! I will get this right and send a photo when I do!
Hi Lee –
I’m sorry you’re having a tough time putting the Pockets together for this Apron. All the of the French seams certainly make it a bit of a puzzle!
When we say, “with the wrong sides facing”, we mean wrong sides facing each other. When you’re finished with the Pocket, the right sides of pieces A and B will be facing each other (sewn together with a French seam), and the wrong sides of pieces B and C will be facing each other (sewn together with a standard seam).
I hope this helps clarify! Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work!
-Corinne
Hi,
I’m in the process of making this beautiful apron. Thank you so much for the pattern. I find that I am a visual person so to help with the pockets I layed the entire apron(minus the straps) out on the table and that gave me the visual help to ensure that I put the pieces together right. Hope that helps.
Hi,
I’m in the process of making this beautiful apron. Thank you so much for the pattern. I find that I am a visual person so to help with the pockets and construction after cutting out the pieces, I layed the entire apron(minus the straps) out on the table and that gave me the visual help to ensure that I put the pieces together right. Hope that helps.
Hi, Sue!
Thank you so much for your suggestion, I am certain there will be folks who will find this very helpful!
Best,
Kumeko
I understand from reading the comments that the apron is sized for someone 5 6 or so… and the comments gave adjustments to the pattern for shorter people, however I could not understand how to do so for someone taller. I am 5 10″, size 10-12 and I am not sure how the pattern should be adjusted, and therefore, how much fabric I should buy.
I am (obviously) not experienced enough to know this intuitively.
I really appreciate your response….
Hi Amy –
This is a great question!
The pattern for the Apron already has some basic sizing adjustments built into it. For example, the straps are cut extra long and are fit and sized once the Apron is close to finished, and according to your measurements. The rest of the Apron is designed to have a flexible fit, and should be comfortable for most sizes. However, if after taking a close look at the finished measurements given, you are unsure of how it will fit your particular frame, I think the easiest adjustments can be made to the Body piece. You should be able to add length or width to this piece without much issue. I would not add any length or width to the Pocket or Back pieces. If you do add width to the Body piece, you will want to order an additional 3/4 yard of fabric to accommodate all of the shapes.
If you make adjustments to the Body piece, follow the pattern as described up to the “Fold The Top Hem” section. At this point, you can make any adjustments you would like to the length of the front bib by adjusting the length of the folds in the top hem. Finish the Apron as described.
I hope all of this helps! Please let me know if you have another questions as you work!
-Corinne
I had been looking for a pattern for just this kind of apron for use in my studio. I made it from a not too stiff cotton canvas (actually a drop cloth) so it would be good protection from paint and dyes. As you can imagine, the front seams, with so many layers of fabric, are really thick and a little stiff. I should have anticipated that! Nevertheless, it is already my favorite studio apron ever. If I were to do it again using such a heavy fabric I would simply serge the fabric edges before assembling and use a regular seam instead of the French seam. Not as elegant, but workable for my kind of use. Thanks for the great design.
My daughter admired this apron but does not sew. I decided to make it as a surprise for her. Thank goodness I enlisted the help of my sister who is a much more talented seamstress than me. This is not for a beginner. Also, we did not have enough fabric. We were short the amount it would take to make one of pocket B. I did not want to pay another $10 for shipping or the additional cost of the pricey linen. We went to JoAnn Fabrics and found a beautiful contrasting fabric which we used to make the pocket panels. It looks great. The fit is very baggy, though. Not at all like the photograph. I hope she likes it!
Hi, Mary Nelson!
Thank you so much for writing in! We appreciate your comments and are so glad that you were able to make it work. I am very sorry that you encountered some trouble in sewing this apron, please know that we are more than happy to help to you with any questions you may have with our patterns. You can comment here on the blog or you always welcome to call our NY store at (212) 420-8796 or drop us an email at [email protected].
Again, I am glad the apron looks great, I am sure your daughter will adore the apron and the love you put into it.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Thank you so much for this apron pattern. Very nice and great instructions included!!
I have several vintage linen table cloths and plan to make this apron from one (or two combined). Wish me luck in cutting the pieces!
Hi, Carolyn!
This sounds gorgeous! Best of luck!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Thanks so much for this wonderful pattern! I’m pretty new to sewing, but would love to tackle this project! After pondering the pattern for a bit, I have a quick question about cutting/layout: Using the measurements you provided, would it be possible to cut the body, pocket C, and back of the apron out as one large piece? And maybe smooth out the line so it’s more of a curve? With my beginner’s eye, this would reduce the number of seams substantially (although I could use the practice), but almost certainly wouldn’t be as efficient from a yardage perspective. So, if you think this change is possible and not a terrible idea, I’d very much appreciate a little help figuring out how much fabric I’ll need. Thanks!
Hi Sarah –
I am so glad you’ve been inspired to work on this project!
Unfortunately, there is no easy way to adapt this pattern to use one solid piece for the Body, Pocket C and Back. The way the pattern is designed, the seams that connect these three pieces also hold the Pockets in place. The apron you describe sounds very cute, but I think you may need a different pattern to make it work!
Sorry I can’t help more.
-Corinne
Thank you so much for designing this patter and sharing it! I’ve been having neck problems and finally realized that it was caused by my traditional over-the-neck apron ;(. So, I’ve been looking for a well-designed cross back apron pattern and here it is!!
Thank you so much for this pattern. I made it in turquoise and it is so beautiful! Now I am going to make another in black.
One comment: when working with the linen (or any other fabric without a “right” side) you need to remember to make “mirror” pockets. Your instructions make a note about mirroring the backs, but didn’t mention doing the pockets similarly so the first time around I ended up with 2 identical pockets, which of course didn’t work and I had to take the second pocket apart.
It is a beautiful pattern though and makes a thoroughly elegant apron!
How do I get this free pattern please and save these instructions on-line, please? At 62, this will be my first apron.
Hello Rebecca –
Thank you for writing in! I am so honored that this pattern has inspired you to make your first apron!
You can always find this pattern here on our website. We keep our entire pattern collection available in our archives. Alternatively, if you would like to save the pattern as a pdf, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags.
Click this link and follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. From here you can save as a PDF for access anytime.
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions.
-Corinne
This is a stunningly beautiful pattern that I’m so excited to make for my friend as a wedding gift! I plan on purchasing some of your oh-so-special Liberty of London to use as the pocket pieces for a little pop of accent, but I’m having trouble matching with the handkerchief linen color choices. I noticed your Warsa Linen has several colors that would be exactly what I’m looking for to match the Liberty print I’ve chosen. However, after reading the comments I’m worried that the Warsa Linen will be too thick. Can you advise me on whether you feel I should stay away from the medium Warsa? Can you suggest another linen I might use that has more color options?
Thanks again for being my very favorite creative place to get lost. I’ve used dozens of patterns and tutorials from Purl Soho over the past few years and couldn’t be more grateful 🙂
Hello Stephanie –
Thank you for writing in, and for your very kind words! It means so much. This sounds like it will be a really lovely gift for your friend.
Unfortunately, I do think that the Warsa will be too thick for this pattern, primarily because of the French seams. However, if you feel comfortable adjusting the pattern to accommodate standard seams it could still be an option. If you would like to keep the pattern as is, I would be happy to suggest some additional fabric options. If you could send me the Liberty patterns and Warsa colors that you are looking at, I can recommend some alternatives from our collection.
Looking forward to hearing from you!
-Corinne
Corinne,
Thanks so much for the suggestion to stick with the handkerchief linen! I decided to find a different Liberty print (Phoebe Yellow) and matched it with your mint color handkerchief linen. I was thrilled when my package arrived yesterday and delighted that my choices look beautiful together 🙂
One question that will help me plan my project more smoothly: what piece(s) do I need to cut out of the Liberty for the exterior piece of the pocket? I’m hoping to be able to have the outermost pocket panel be the contrasting Liberty but the inside of the pocket be the mint linen. What do you suggest?
Thank you again for being such a wonderful resource and also for being available to ask questions! You are incredible and help me keep my creativity thriving!
Stephanie –
I am so glad you were able to find a fabric alternative that you are so pleased with. It sounds lovely!
The exterior pocket piece in this pattern is Pocket Piece C. You will want to cut this piece from your Liberty and all others from the Linen.
Thank you again for all of your kind words! It is our pleasure, and a real privilege, to help all of our creative and inspiring readers!
-Corinne
Question re: the cut list: Shouldn’t the back piece(s) be cut the same length as the SHORT side of pocket C, not the LONG side of pocket C? I thought the long side of pocket C (with And B stacked on) is sewn to the FRONT and then angles down to match the back length. However in the cut list, the back is given as 27″ which is 4 inches longer than the short side of “pocket C” to which it is supposed to be sewn. ( see page 27 of the instructions). Maybe I am not understanding something?
Hi Marla –
This is a great question, and very observant! However crazy it may seem, I assure you that all of the lengths given in the pattern are correct!
The Pocket is assembled using all three Pocket pieces. Once they are sewn together, they create a unified Pocket piece that is longer than any of the individual Pocket pieces, and whose short side aligns with the Back. This part of the pattern can be a little complicated, so please feel free to get back in touch if you any more questions as you work!
Happy sewing,
-Corinne
I’m glad I read the comment about the straps. They are very long but better than being too short, right? I made an apron with 45″ width fabric and needed a couple inches more than 2 yards, basically a 40″ x 78″ rectangle. I drafted out the layout in graph paper – can share if anyone is interested.
Hi, Gail!
Thank you for writing in and thank you for your offer to share your layout. I’m sure some folks in our crafting community may find it helpful. Again, thank you!
Best,
Kumeko
I would love to have the pattern layout in graph paper.
Hello Beth,
Thanks for your suggestion! We’ll keep it mind for the future!
-Adam
Hello and thank you for this great pattern. I want to make one without the pockets. Would you recommend add ing 4″ to the back piece or subtracting 4″ from the pocket piece?
Your creative sensibility is inspirational and refreshing.
Thank you again.
Hello Pam –
Thank you for writing in!
To make this Apron without the side pocket, I recommend cutting a side panel that measures 8 1/2 inches across, 31 inches on one side and 27 inches on the other (so that the short side lines up with the Back piece and the long side lines up with the Body).
I hope this helps (and makes sense!). Please let me know if you have any other questions while you work on the project!
-Corinne
Thanks for the beautiful project and instructions! I’m excited to try it out. I was planning on using the Handkerchief Linen, but I just saw your new Watercolor Linen… Am I right to think that I could substitute the Watercolor Linen with no problems? Are there any other fabrics that you sell (linen or otherwise) that would work well for this project as well? I thought it would be fun to make a smaller version for my daughter in a fun printed fabric! Any suggestions?
Hello Carina –
The Watercolor Linen would be a beautiful option for this apron! Other fabrics that would work well are Robert Kaufman’s Chambray Union, or Kokka Fabrics’ Lightweight Linen Canvas. And, for some playful options for your daughter, you could try Freespirit Fabrics’ Loominous Yarn Dyes collection, or Nani Iro’s Double Gauze.
I hope this helps!
Happy sewing!
-Corinne
Hello and thank you for clear pics of the process!
Have one math problem with first aprone scheme:
if
body is 34 1/2
back is 24 1/2
and bib part of body is 10
then pockets seems can’t have diagonal cuts! Short side of pocket is 24 1/2 as back, long part is (34 1/2-10) = 24 1/2, so they are equal.
I just finished to handstiching straps, now going to cut pockets, and that bothers my twisted mind)))
And another one thing, please, if I’m 165 cm, how I need to shorten the body part? Pockets and back parts can be the same length?
Hello Sasha –
Thank you for writing in! I agree that the math of this project can be a real mind twister! The pocket is actually sewn with three separate pieces, and none of the cuts of the individual pieces are equal to the full length of the pocket. You can follow the cutting chart with confidence, and all the pieces will fit together in the end!
To adjust the length to fit your frame, I suggest following the directions as given, with one exception. Do not hem the Apron as described. Instead, wait until you are completely finished and cut the hem as desired.
I hope this helps!
Please let us know if you have any other questions as you work!
-Corinne
I just love this apron. My problem is I keep trying to make the second pocket and now I have three right side pockets. I bought more fabric because I swore I was going to conquer this apron. Maybe I am missing something in the directions. Help.
Hi Nancy! We are so sorry to hear about the trouble the pockets seem to be making for you and some of our followers! Thanks for writing in!
If you take a look at the pieces laid out in the “Cutting Layout” graphic, you’ll see how the pockets are laid out in mirror image of one another. A helpful hint would be to place a pin on the “face side” of the fabric to prevent sewing the pieces incorrectly later on. With fabrics such as the Watercolor Linen and Handkerchief Linen, the reversibility of the fabric (while lovely!) can be very tricky!
When you get to step “Prepare Side Pockets” section of the pattern keep in mind the second set of pockets will be the mirror image of the first, so you’ll be sewing those same size pieces, but flipped!
We hope this helps you and others in your sewing adventures!
Thank you and happy sewing!
Keith
Hi to all! I made this pattern up in June for myself; I am 48″ in the hip region. I added to the back pieces only cutting each of them at 9-1/2″ wide because I did not need more space across my chest. Ta Da! I am thrilled with it and will do it again! Thank you, Purl Bee for all that you share and tempt us with!! pj stitches!
Thanks so much for the wonderful apron pattern! This is exactly what I’ve been looking for! I’m new to your site, but am finding so many things that I like. Thanks!
CAUTION: When using a rotary cutter CLOSE the cutter EVERY time a cut is finished.
NEVER leave a rotary cutter open for even a second.
Rotary Cutters are VERY VERY sharp.
1. Ready to cut: OPEN cutter.
2. Cut finished. CLOSE immediately.
Hi Marny-
Thanks for the reminder, it is SO important. Our Rotary Cutting Tutorial emphasizes safety as well and you can see it here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2014/05/08/rotary-cutting/
Best-
Molly
Help! I was going great until the step you say to lay side pocket out flat so right side of A and C are facing up and then you say to pin layers – what layers? I thought I did this ok, but next step just doesn’t make sense with how this ‘pocket’ looks. I’ve read and re-read and looked at other comments – just not getting it.
Thanks in advance.
Hi Rebecca – let’s see if I can help with this!
Once Piece B is sewn to Piece C, they effectively become the front piece of the pocket. Laying out piece A under the combined piece B and C and sewing the edges together is the final step in “closing off” the pocket.
Does this answer your question? Please let us know – we are eager to help!
Keith
I think I figured out the pocket after looking more at it and the finished picture. The next step (suggestion – perhaps number your steps on longer instructions) says to stitch the pocket and back together – but does not say how wide of a seam – I think it probably matters – but not sure and rather not do trial and error. Thanks in advance…..
Hi Rebecca! Thanks for writing in!
Unless otherwise indicated, aim for a 1/2 inch seam allowance. The pattern will instruct you when to use a 1/4 or 1/8 seam allowance.
And thank you so much for your suggestions! I will pass them along to our designers!
Happy Sewing!
Keith
Has anyone used a button for the strap attachment vs sewing them into the apron? Thought it might give a nice look and add flexibility (can pretty easily move a button)? Will need to do a little ‘un-sewing’ on the straps to finish the end, but think that would be a nice addition.
Hi Rebecca,
Great question! We have not seen this modification but I think that it would work great! Do let us know if you try it and it works out well!
Happy sewing!
Cassy
can you tell me the easiest/best way to put this apron on/off?
Hello Lynn,
Thanks for writing us! I’d just pop it over my head to put it on and grab both sides and pull it over my head to take it off. Thanks!
-Adam
I did go with a button – I put iron on interfacing at the top and placed the button and hole so they would be in the center of the strap and top – looks great and works well. Gives flexibility if unsure of length of straps.
Do you have a photo?
Wonderful pattern. The pocket proved a little tricky until I realized the C pocket piece actually forms the right side of the pocket. Hope this helps my fellow spatially challenged sewers.
It helps us all! Thanks Cecilia!
It sure does help. I made a template pattern first with scrap material I had laying around, otherwise I would not have understood the pocket portion. Could be explained a little better.
The 3 pictured examples of the Cross Back Apron in Handkerchief Linen are the colors “Desert, Redwood and Persimmon,” with corresponding thread. I wish to make the lightest shade of coral/pumpkin-colored examples but it is not clear which shade is the lightest one. I believe it is “Redwood” but the corresponding thread looks too bright to accompany the “Redwood” color. It appears that the proper thread color should be “4860.” Could I please have a definitive clarification of the lightest fabric and matching thread so I can order it properly?
Thank you…
Hi Candy,
Thank you for writing in! In the photo with the three aprons the colors from left to right are Desert, Persimmon and Redwood. I did check the thread with the fabric and the matching color to Persimmon is 4860 and the matching color for Redwood is 4850.
I hope that this helps and happy sewing!
Cassy
Is this pattern still available for free? I don’t see a pdf to download.
Hi Bevin,
Thanks for your question! Yes, this pattern is free, but there is no pdf or paper pattern to print out. The cutting instructions are at the top of the pattern in the diagram. You will chalk in the pattern based on the measurements and the cutting layout. Let me know if you have any other questions — I’d be glad to help!
-Adam
Hi! Do you recommend measuring and cutting the fabric or making pattern pieces then cutting the fabric?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for the question! We recommend that you lay the fabric out and cut by chalking out the measurements. No pattern pieces required! Thanks!
-Adam
Thank you for sharing your pattern, I can’t wait to make this…and then maybe more for gifts!
A couple of questions though…are you folding the fabric when laying out and cutting out the pieces, or is it a single layer? Is the true front piece 13″ wide, or 26″ because it is cut on the fold? Thanks in advance for your answers.
Hi Allison,
Thanks for writing in! You will not be cutting on the fold. The middle panel is, indeed, 13″ wide. If you look at the layout schematic under the SIZE section, you can get a better idea of the whole layout of the finished apron.
I hope that this helps and happy sewing!
Cassy
This is a beautiful pattern! I just finished my first apron and I am so impressed with the elegance of the design. Everything fits together so nicely and so neatly. When I was stumped (pockets), I simply reread the instructions a couple of times. It didn’t always make sense but I trusted and carried on. I researched other patterns but this was by far the most appealing and cool! I love my new apron and will make more. Thanks for your generosity in posting this professional design.
OK-I am about in tears here. I am baffled over the pocket directions. I cannot for the life of me figure it out!!
Hi, Sandy!
I just responded to your latest comment. Please let us know if you have further questions. Thank you for writing in!
Warmest wishes,
Kumeko
Hi Sandy! I had the same issue on the pocket. It helps to refer to the illustrated image of the apron finished to see how the pocket is layered. Hope that helps. I’m also wondering why the straps are so long. I made this for my daughter and had to cut off almost 18 inches of each strap. I also did the buttons as suggested by another post. Good Luck!
Very detailed pattern, easy to follow, if in doubt, just re read. Thank you for the pattern, I will be making a number of these. no messing around with ties.
Hi, Anne!
Thank you so much for writing in! We greatly appreciate your kind words!
Best,
Kumeko
I am struggling with this stage-I can’t figure it out. What layers? Please help!
Lay the Side Pocket out flat so that the rights sides of Pockets A and C are facing up. Pin all layers of the Side Pocket together along the side edges. Sew along the pinned edges with a 1/8-inch seam allowance.
Hi, Sandy!
Thank you so much for writing in! The Pocket section can be tricky!
Once Piece B is sewn to Piece C, they effectively become the front piece of the pocket. Laying out piece A under the combined piece B and C and sewing the edges together is the final step in “closing off” the pocket.
So, when you’re finished with the Pocket, the right sides of pieces A and B will be facing each other (sewn together with a French seam), and the wrong sides of pieces B and C will be facing each other (sewn together with a standard seam).
Does this make sense? Please let us know! Again, thank you for writing in!
Best,
Kumeko
Thank you! I figured it out by looking at the photo of a finished apron-I am a better visual person! I am now on apron # 3-they are getting better each time. I am working on french seam perfection and straight sewing lines. Practice practice practice. Love your patterns-thank you
I’m a newbie to sewing, and I’m wondering if I can make the body piece wider than 13″ to compensate for a large bust. If that is possible, do I need to make any other adjustments or that will be enough? I have been looking for an apron that doesn’t hang around my neck, and I’m having trouble finding one that is large enough to sufficiently cover my chest from cooking splatters.
Thanks!
Kris
Hi Kris,
Thanks for writing us! You will have 47″ of the width of the fabric used up if you cut the pattern exactly as shown. This means that with a 56″ wide fabric you have about 9″ to play with for the chest size. I hope this helps!
-Adam
I teach and in winter I wear a lab coat, but it’s just too hot most of the year. I’m planning an apron like this instead with lots of pockets, including pen and whiteboard marker pockers on the front section.
I too want to widen the front piece. Will it be better to narrow the pockets or the back pieces for keeping the fit.
I also thought about separating the bib and front of the apron to keep the bottom half of the apron the same size.
Hi Bronte,
Thanks for writing in. The pattern layout takes up roughly 47″ of the fabric width, so you can easily widen the front section without compromising the pockets at all if you are working with a 56-60″ wide fabric. I do not suggest narrowing the pockets because you’ll have trouble getting your hands in and out. I’m not sure what you mean by separating the bib, so if you have a question about that, please explain in more detail what you mean. Thanks and best of luck!
-Adam
If the center piece is made wider, do any other adjustments to the pattern need to be made?
Hi Suzanne,
Thank you for the question. No, you will not need to make any other adjustments if you make the center piece wider. You will have to probably adjust how much yardage you buy though.
All the best,
Adam
Hello, I love this pattern but my finished apron doesn’t match measurements on your diagram! On the front panel, measuring down to top of pocket, my finished measurement is 5.5 inches and on your diagram it says 10 inches. Where have I gone wrong? Please help. Best wishes Rae
Hi Rae,
Thank you for writing in! This is a tricky question! There may a couple of a reasons as to why your measurements do not match ours. Did you pre-wash your fabric? Maybe there was some shrinkage if you didn’t pre-wash. Also, were you sure to use the correct seam allowance? If you’re off on seam allowance (even just a tiny bit) it can make a difference in the finished product. Let us know what you think.
Best,
Kumeko
Thank you Kumeko for your prompt reply. Have checked my measurements again and can see that the 10 inch measurement refers to the top angle of the front pocket piece not the back piece as indicated on your diagram. Best wishes. Rae
Thank you for this pattern! I just finished my first apron and am preparing to make a second for my aunt. This is the most elegant apron I’ve ever worn!
I usually wash and dry my fabrics before I start my projects. How do you suggest I handle the handkerchief linen, hand wash, machine in cold water, warm water, air dry? I am not sure what to do.
Hi Helen,
Thanks for writing in! You are following best practices for sewing! The care instructions for Watercolor Linen are Machine Wash + Dry. For all of my projects with this fabric, I have machine washed cold and tumble dry on low or medium and the fabric has come out beautifully!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Wonderful pattern! Since the straps are 50″ on the width of the fabric, how would they be cut if using 40-45″ wide fabric. Would they have to be pieced? Thank you.
Hi Cindy,
You could certainly piece the straps and nobody would know a thing! However, if you are working on 40-45″ wide fabric, you’ll have to make sure you have enough yardage for the body since the original fabric is about 56-58″ wide. Best of luck and let us know how it goes!
-Adam
It would be helpful to suggest a yardage length for fabric that is 45″, along with a layout.
Hi Bug,
Thanks for writing in and for the suggestion! At present, we only have this layout and yardage available but we will certainly keep your request in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
Hi all
I’m hkway through making this, but have a quick question. When I’m making the second pocket, do I do it all in mirror to the first? I’ve started as the instructions State for both pockets, but I’m worried they are now going to both face the same direction which doesn’t fit with the flat picture you have.
Help!!
Hi Robyn,
Thanks for writing in and sorry it took so long to get back! The pockets are cut mirror-image on the face side of the fabric, so as long as you repeat the steps exactly as the first pocket you should end up with one right and one left pocket. Thanks!
-Adam
What is the simplest way to adjust this for a plus size gal?
Hi Kate,
Thanks for writing in! If you are interested in sizing this pattern up, it would be an easy adjustment to widen the “Front” and “Back” panels and extend the straps while maintaining the same dimensions of the pockets. We’d recommend purchasing an extra yard of fabric to give yourself room to play and if you need any help in additional measurements – please let us know!
Best,
Cassy
“Lay the Side Pocket out flat so that the rights sides of Pockets A and C are facing up. Pin all layers of the Side Pocket together along the side edges. Sew along the pinned edges with a 1/8-inch seam allowance.
Repeat with the remaining Pocket pieces.”
On the second pocket am I supposed to do everything backwards? If so, why didn’t the directions specify? My back pieces look fine, but I’m struggling to attach them to my pockets. Forgive the ignorance (I’m new at this), but are my two pocket panels supposed to have identical slopes that run parallel to one another, or are they supposed to mirror one another?
Hi, Danielle!
Thank you so much for writing in! Great eye! You are correct, for the second pocket you have to flip all the pieces. We are updating the pattern to address this issue. We are very sorry for any confusion or frustration this may have caused you!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I was having very good success with these instructions, until I came to the point where I had to attach the second side pocket to the second back. Was the second pocket supposed to be done in reverse of the first? I repeated the steps to make the second pocket exactly, and did not do the mirror image. I am left no way to have the two wrong sides aligned, while also having the shorter side edge of the Side Pocket align with the long raw edge of the Back piece.
Where did I go wrong?!
Hi Tori!
Thank you so much for writing in! You and others have pointed to this very important omission on our part, thank you! You are correct, for the second pocket you basically have to flip all the pieces. We have updated and corrected the pattern to reflect this. Again, thank you for writing in!
Best,
Kumeko
What a lovely pattern! I would like to make one but without the pockets (sorry, they look very pretty but I need a quicker version just now!) can I make the pocket and back parts as a single part to save stitching the seam between the 2? If so what would the measurement of that part be, I’m trying to work it out myself but a bit confused with seam allowance. Thank you team!
Hi Estelle!
Thank you for writing in, sorry for the very delayed response to your question! Have you already completed the apron? If not, combining the pocket and back part into a single section can be done, but that may pose it’s own challenges. For example, since the Pocket section is sloped sewing the top hem of a combined pocket and back section could be tricky.
The width of the original pocket and back sections are 8 1/2-inches each for a total of 17-inches. You lose 1-inch to the side hem, 1-inch to the French Seam that connects the pocket and back sections and 1-inch to the French Seam that connects the pocket section to the body. So, the width of a combined pocket and back section piece would need to be 16 inches (this accounts for the 1-inch side hem and 1-inch French Seam that would connect the combined pocket and back sections. You wouldn’t need to make any adjustments to the height of the pieces. Does that make sense? Let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hello! I just finished making my apron. While I was thinking, how wonderful it is that a tutorial written in the USA can be used by someone in a very distant place … like me! I made my apron in the Argentine city of San Carlos de Bariloche. Thanks! Greetings from Patagonia!
I love the apron pattern, my favorite of all! Let’s talk about pockets again. I have been reading every question & answer in the current section.
My pockets seem to be about 12″ deep, is this right? When I match the straight ends of A & B, then press the pocket bottom smooth & on fold, the pocket is 12″ deep. If this is not correct can you show me the error of my ways? Why would I need pockets this deep? I think I will have to sew across the bottom to shorten the depth. The patterns are drafted perfectly. Everything fits together! I am sewing the old year out & the new one in. Thank you, Peggie
Hi Peggie!
Thank you for writing in! And thank you so much for your kind words! You are correct, the pockets are about 12-inches deep – we chose to make the pockets generous but you are always welcome to adjust the depth to suit your needs! Again, thank you and please let us know if you have any more questions.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I did it! I had to take out stitches, of course. I re-read the step by step instructions, layed the pattern (I did make a paper pattern) on top of my cut fabric. I had sewed the wrong pieces together. I missed the part ” fold fabric A toward the wrong side, hem ” & Lay pattern A aside”. I did make a change in the pattern measurements. I cut my front 14″ wide however that is too wide. My pockets are too far around the side. They are awkward to fill my pockets, telephone. The next one I will make the back pieces about an inch wider. I was able to get both straps from one piece of fabric, sew it , cut it in half. I am 5′ 1 1/2″ tall, about a size 10-12, 136 lbs. (74 yrs old). As long as I’m sharing, might as well tell it all. Maybe my size will help someone deal with their sizing. I love the simplicity of the pattern pieces, even if I did have trouble with the pockets. Oh yes, I did cut my pocket depth down by 2″. Next time I will make them 4″ shorter. My pocket depth is almost up to my elbow.
Hi – just wondering if you know of anyone who would make a couple of these me? I don’t sew but LOVE the design and fabric suggestions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. TYSM!
Hi Christine,
We do not offer custom orders as a service, but you can email your request to [email protected] and we will email a bunch of our freelance friends. If any of them have availability, they’ll get back to you with times and rates. Thanks!
-Adam
Just made this in a very lightweight denim fabric. Despite making every possible rookie error and then some (totally my fault not the pattern, which is extremely detailed) still managed to pull off an apron that looks just like yours.
The seams on this apron are heavy duty, it will not be falling apart anytime soon.
Thank you for the pattern and instructions.
Hi Emma,
So glad you had success with the pattern in the end! Congrats!
-Adam
Can this be made with duck cloth? Also how would I make this for a person that wears 3X? Any help would be appreciated!!
Hello Michaelle!
Thank you for writing in! I’m concerned that duck cloth might be a little too stiff for this apron pattern, so I wouldn’t recommend it. To size this pattern up – widen the “Front” and “Back” panels and extend the straps while maintaining the same dimensions of the pockets. We’d recommend purchasing an extra yard of fabric to give yourself room to play and if you need any help in additional measurements – please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Will this fit a 3x lady
Hi Pamela,
I don’t think that this pattern will fit a 3x lady size. However, you can adjust the pattern by buying double the yardage of a wide fabric (54-60″) so you can adjust the pattern layout. You’ll want to adjust the pattern pieces so that your bottom edge comes to at least 5″ greater than the widest part of your hips with all seams sewn. As for the straps, I’d cut them longer than needed so you can adjust them as necessary. I hope this helps. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi there, Great apron pattern – been looking for this for a while. Thank you so much for sharing it.
Is it possible for you to give the rough measurements of the model in the photo to help judge how much I need to increase my apron pattern pieces. I’m another big girl and my hips/tummy are 45″ and bust 40″ so I’m guessing this pattern is going to be tight on me using the measurements given on the diagram. I’d hate to go to all the trouble of making it and find it doesn’t fit. As the apron looks best hanging loose – and also as it will be worn over clothing – maybe you could advise on the actual amendments to width of each panel in order to make it feel loose and comfortable on my frame please? From the measurement of the width of the fabric in the first diagram it looks as though the finished width round the bottom of the hem is 39″ which would be way too tight for me.
Thanks so much.
Hi Jacqui,
Thanks for the kind comment. Unfortunately we can’t customize a pattern here, but I can advise you that your finished bottom edge should be about 5″ greater than your hip circumference. I’d cut the straps longer than needed so you can adjust them to fit. I hope this helps!
-Adam
Thanks Adam. Still going with this. Have cut each piece a bit wider. Unfortunately made a cutting error with pockets so they have gone by the wayside! Will treat this effort as a prototype and have another go when I’ve tried on the completed apron. Enjoying myself though! Thanks again.
Hi, I am using a fabric that is a) only 44″ wide, and b) has pattern with images in it so there’s a definite “up” and “down” orientation. I’m trying to figure out how to lay out the pieces in the most fabric-efficient manner for cutting while making sure they’re all oriented “right side up.” I *think* the pocket piece B is actually facing in, so that could be upside down without anyone noticing…is that correct? Are there any other pieces I could get away with cutting upside down or sideways? Thanks!
Hi Jennifer,
Thank you for the questions! Unfortunately there aren’t any pieces besides the pocket lining that will be hidden when sewn. This means that you’ll have to orient your fabrics as per the pattern. Moreover, you’ll have to change the pattern layout because our layout isn’t for directional fabric. Let us know how it goes!
Happy sewing!
-Adam
-Adam
How do I order your linen fabric and what are your prices?
Hi June,
Thank you for the question. Click here to buy the Handkerchief Linen. Thanks again and happy sewing!
Adam
Hi,
I’m making this for the first time, and just realized that the measurements that you have printed for the back and side panels are incorrect and don’t match up in length. Additionally, the attachment point between the front and side panel doesn’t seem correct.
The back height of the finished apron measures 24″ length in the illustration. The cutting instructions are, 23″ length for the short side of the side panel, and 27″ length for the back panel.
One of two things might fix this.
First, The side panel measurement could be modified to 31″ sloping to 27″. Taking into account the seam allowances for the back panel, the finished back measurement would be 24 3/4″. With this modification, the top hem connecting the front and side panel at 6 3/4″ in the illustration, would need to be corrected to 5 3/4″.
The second solution is to lob 4′ off the length of the back panels, and make the attachment of the side to the front panel at 9 1/2″. This looks much closer to what the apron looks like on your model. The finished back seam would measure 20 3/4″.
The length of the straps is too long. I’m 5’9 and the strap as is goes from the front of the apron to the back of my knee. 34″ to 35″ seems closer to where it should be.
Could you please let me know what to do?
Thanks much,
Mari
Hello Mari,
I’m so sorry it has taken me so long to respond to you!
You are right – the math doesn’t seem like it is going to add up when you look at the pattern pieces alone, but as the three pieces (Pockets A, B + C) come together to form the Side Pocket, they end up fitting very nicely with the Body and Back Panels. This all happens in the “Prepare the Side Pockets” section.
As for the Straps, again, you are correct, they are cut longer than they need to be in most cases. We wanted to make sure to give enough room in the Straps so that this pattern could truly be adjusted to fit almost any body type, male or female. For most of us, quite a bit of fabric will be trimmed off in the end.
We describe how to get a precise fit with the Straps in the “Attach the Straps” section of the pattern.
I hope this helps!
Please let us know if you have any other questions or concerns about the pattern as you sew.
Warmly,
Marilla
Super cute apron! Easy to understand instructions and the pictures were very helpful. I whipped one up out of patterned duck cloth for my mom for Mother’s Day in a few hours. I can’t wait until she gets it!
Thank you for this great apron pattern. I put it together today, but tried it out on cotton fabric first. I will be making a linen one as well. A very nice looking apron when completed.
This bit about the two opposite angles for the pocket pieces is a simple fix. Just cut two of the same pieces at the same time with the fabric facing wrong side to wrong side. Then you’ll have the two mirror image pieces. I am sure someone has already suggested this several times somewhere in the 174 comments. 🙂 Thanks again.
I have a size question. I’m a size XL (about a 16) and I’d love for this to fit me just as it fits you in the photo. Should I add to the back and or/side to compensate for my girth so the straps don’t pull in the back? I figured that I wouldn’t want to make the front wider because the straps may get too wide. Thank you. It’s just lovely!
Hi Lori,
This is a fantastic apron, so happy you like it. To get the correct measurements, you would want to add to the back and the sides of the pattern.
Have a lovely day,
Melissa
There are a lot of comments above asking whether or not this apron will work for someone in the 3x range. I followed your suggestion to make sure the finished bottom hem would be about 5 inches larger than my hip measurement and it worked out great. I ended up adding only a small amount to the front panel (2 inches) because I felt that would make the top hem lay a bit flatter on me (it worked), and then added 3 inches to the width of each side panel and 5 inches to the width of each back panel. I am on the shorter side though, and so I ended up cutting off about 15 inches from each strap and about 7 inches off the bottom of the apron (after checking the fit as instructed). I also really enjoyed the clarity of your directions–I am very new to sewing anything like a garment, and I was even able to make the pocket on the first try.
I am looking for the pattern to make this Apron but can’t see to find it.
May you help me please.
Thank you
Yolanda
Hi Yolanda,
Thanks for writing in! It is not a traditional tissue or printed paper pattern. The apron is constructed using simple cut shapes. A Cutting Chart with a full list of dimensions is included as well as a Cutting Guide for proper layout on your fabric.
I hope that this helps and happy sewing!
Cassy
I just made this apron twice. First time it might have had a few things that didn’t go smoothly, but I sailed through the second one. Actually made it with two different fabrics, washed Kona for the front and back and a tweedier fabric for the pocket. I can’t wait to try it making it in linen.
I would love to make it in a child’s size for Christmas, but I am a bit confused about how to size it down. I don’t want the pockets to be too narrow. I would want to make an 8-14 (since it is basically a one size fits all, that covers an array of sizes). Any suggestions on which pieces to cut down or should i just cut it down by 2 inches or so on each panel?
Hi Lauren,
Thanks for writing in! I am so glad that this pattern has worked out so well for you! While we do not have this pattern sized down for kids, we do have an adjustable apron that works for kids from 2-10. You could certainly try sizing this one down by making each panel narrower and the apron shorter overall. I would try this with scrap fabric or you could try cutting s taping paper in the correct sizes together to see if it fits your intended recipient (this is an old sewing trick when one does not have fabric to make a muslin).
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’d like to make one for my kids ( age 4 & 2). By chance, would you have a sample/ measurement for toddlers?
Hi Joffre,
Thanks for writing in! While we do not have this pattern written for kids, we do have an adjustable apron that is great for kids from 2-10 years old.
Happy sewing!
Cassy
Hi! I love this apron and want to make it for a friend who is quite small. Would you recommend that I adjust the measurements down all around? Or just shorten the hem and the straps? I have already ordered some of your beautiful handkerchief linen and can’t wait to see it!
Hi Markie,
You will want to shorten the hem and the straps as well as shorten all around. So that it fits her proportions.
Enjoy,
Melissa
Hi Melissa- thank you for your reply. When you say “shorten all around” do you mean that I should make the pieces smaller? Are you just talking about length, or width as well?
Hi Markie,
You would want to shorten the length and width.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
THANK YOU for a great pattern. I usually struggle to follow patterns exactly and prefer to wing things, but I stuck to the instructions and it certainly paid off. What a well-constructed, well-finished apron. I’m very impressed by how well it turned out.
Can you give me any tips on sizing this down to fit a young girl, age 5-7? Thanks!!
Hi Julie,
Thanks for writing in! While we do not have this pattern written in sizes for children, we do have a lovely adjustable apron pattern that is written for kids from 2-10 that would be lovely!
Best,
Cassy
Hi! I’m enjoying making my second of these aprons, and had no problems that I recall making the first one.
This time round though, I’m struggling to attach the pockets to the back pieces. The instructions have the pieces not quite meeting at the top, but when I put them together this way, they end up offset at the top and not level as illustrated. The raw edges at the bottom line up.
Any idea what I might be doing wrong? The instructions say to offset the pieces but then never mentions it again!
Any help, greatly appreciated.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help. When attaching the back panel to the pocket panel, the pocket panel will stick out 3/4″. You will then be creating a French or enclosed seem. The first line of stitching will be 1/4″ with the wrong sides facing each other. You will then fold along the seam line so that the right sides of the Side Pocket and Back are now facing, press and pin, and sew a 1/2″ seem allowance. This will consume the 3/4″ overhang and create a clean interior seem.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Just wondering about the measurement of the back pieces. Why is the cut measurement 27 ” and the finished piece 24″ if the pocket side that it attaches to is cut at 23″?
Hi Deb,
Thanks for writing in! The extra length on these pieces is to accommodate generous, enclosed hems at the top and bottom!
Best,
Cassy
Finished my apron with a few seams having to be ripped out. Yes the pocket is tricky. I wish there were more visuals and the tread in a dark colour would allow you to see better the stitching. I used a Kaufman Essex Yarn Dyed cotton linen, so I had no wrong or right side.
Tips from me:
1. I found it easier to put a little sticky label differentiating the right side/wrong side with my linen
2. 44″ fabric – if you use the WOF for the straps you will have enough, you don’t need 50″ as suggested.
Good Luck!
Hi Jill,
Thanks for writing in and sharing your experiences! I am so glad that it turned out well. I am sure others will benefit from your insights here!
Best,
Cassy
I made one so far. With the directions, including pictures, printed, it is very clear to follow.
The straps are incredibly long. I will adjust for subsequent (gifts) aprons and customize length for the recipient.
I did make a pattern, as I will make this apron again. As a petite person, I may also adjust the pocket depth.
One thing that may help others, there is only one pocket but three pocket pieces per side. My brain was expecting three pockets (haha).
I love this type of apron, but I have a fuller figure. I am wondering if I should adjust the pattern size to make certain that it hangs nicely.
Hi Sametta,
Thanks for writing in! This lovely apron looks great on a wide variety of body types. IF you would like to enlarge it, you certainly can. We can advise you that your finished bottom edge should be about 5″ greater than your hip circumference. Additionally, you can cut the straps longer than needed so you can adjust them to fit.
I hope this helps!
Cassy
Thanks very much for this pattern. The instructions are extremely clear and well written. It has been a pleasure to make the apron.
Maybe I am missing something here, but when you look at the pattern pieces, the back is longer than the sides; and obviously in the finished piece, the back is shorter. What am I missing here?
thanks!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! While you cut the back piece to be as long as Pocket C, you will be eating up more of the length of the back than in other pieces as it is folded over a few times to contain the straps. Additionally, it will lose a bit more length when attaching the side pockets to the back!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love this pattern. I’m size 16/18 and 5’3″. I added 1 1/2 to the width of each pattern piece and the apron fits perfectly. I had 3 yards of fabric but if I had cut the straps the 31 in instead of 50, 2 1/2 yards of 45 wide fabric would have been enough. I cut the pattern by cutting 2 instead of 1 at a time placing 1 full width fabric on another.
The pockets were tricky but once stacked pieces A, B, and C I could see how they needed to be sewn. My linen/cotton blend fabric looked very similar on right and wrong sides so I marked them with their letters to help me keep them consistent.
I’d like to make this apron again, but as others have mentioned, I’d make the pockets shorter.
I just finished my first one! Have been looking for a wrapped around apron for awhile and found this one fairly easy to make and looks great. I did make a little change – I added a thin layer of patterned fabric to the pocket C so the whole pocket and the side panel is of different color or pattern. Next time I will try to add a bias tape border on top of the pocket so you will see the pocket right away, breaks up the mono tone.
Surprisingly easy to make…..I made it much shorter. Does fit almost all! Thank you for the many, many, many photos… 😉
How much shorter did you make it? And how tall are you and where does it hit you at the bottom of the apron?
Thanks so much for posting this. I just finished one in an old fashion toile print fabric that is red . I love the comfort of this.
Thanks,
Ginger
I have all sorts of great fabric to make this apron with. I do plan to make one adjustment. I’m short, and plan to make the straps adjustable with buttons and buttonholes.
I’m totally adopting this idea! I really like this!!
I’m JUST sewing this today and am VERY EXCITED and HAPPY TO HAVE FOUND this LOVELY pattern! I appreciate that it’s STILL POSTED! Thanks so much.
Amazing pattern – made the apron for my 94 yr old Aunt who is in a wheel chair – had to cut it down a little – thank you so much for the pattern – I really enjoyed making it.
I love this apron and couldnt wait to get started sewing, I do have a question about the top hem of the body piece. I’m confused on where to sew so that I will then be able to have the two inch fold go back back to the wrong side. The dotted line is throwing me off.
Thank you
Hi Louisa,
Thanks for reaching out! After folding and pressing the top hem of the body piece to the wrong side, you will unfold the 2″ hem and sew just the side seams of that 2″ hem, as indicated by the dotted lines, with the right sides together. Next, flip the hem right side out so that the wrong sides are together and the side seams are encased in the hem, and your 2″ fold should be on the inside of the apron. I hope that clarifies this step!
Best of luck and happy sewing!
Julianna
I really love this pattern and I want to make it for me and my coworkers but I don’t know how to cut it in a fabric with 40-45″ width.
Hi Rossy,
Thanks for reaching out! We don’t have a cutting layout for narrower fabric, so I would recommend diagramming it on graph paper before you begin! I tried it and hopefully I can explain what I came up with…I think the best layout would be with the fabric unfolded, from left selvage to right, the Body, the first set of Pockets C and A, then the two straps rotated to run parallel to the selvages. In a second row, place the second set of Pockets C and A, the first set of Back and Pocket B, then the second Back under one strap and the second Pocket B under the other strap. I think you could comfortably cut everything out of two and a half yards of 42 inch wide fabric without piecing the straps, but it wouldn’t hurt to get two and three quarters or three yards to be on the safe side!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I used cotton fabric in an all over pattern, meaning there is no up or down direction of the fabric. I cut six 8.5-inch cuts the width of the fabric from selvedge to selvedge and one 13-inch cut the width of the fabric selvedge to selvedge. I used two of the 8.5-inch cuts for the straps, and I used the other four 8.5-inch cuts to lay out the pocket/sides and back using the diagram on the pattern that indicates the measurements of each pattern piece. I cut the front piece to the length indicated on the diagram. This layout takes a little less than 1-7/8 yards of fabric. Cutting across the grain is not standard procedure for clothing layout, but I thought the ease of cutting made this choice an acceptable option for me — especially since the drape and fit of the apron was not a major consideration for me.
This is a great pattern! I fell in love with this apron so decided to give it a try. I do not consider myself to be more than a novice seamstress and, by following the instruction, I ended up with a wonderful finished product. I never thought I could create anything that looked this professional. Thank you!
toda tu página es Maravillosa, te felicito.
voy ha hacer unos bolsos y delantal, muy lindos
gracias por compartir tu Arte.. inesita.
Thank you for this free pattern and clear instructions. I just finished making a grey canvas one for my daughter.
Is it possible for you to let me know what the actual seam allowances are for each piece? I want to modify the length substantially and make it wider around. If I had the actual seam allowances stated, I can do the math. Thanks.
Hi Rowan,
Thanks for reaching out! We used half inch seam allowances and hems throughout the apron, with the exception of the top of the main body piece, which is hemmed at two and a half inches, and the bottom hem, which is one and a quarter inches.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I made mine 8” shorter, (I’m 5’6” and it’s right above my knee) and will make the next one wider, and maybe I’ll add another pocket.
I’m 5’5″ and like you shortened the length 8″. Just right (above knee).
I just finished making this, I had it done in a day. It was simple and looks so professional. Your instructions with pictures made the process so easy to follow and I can’t wait to show off my apron at work! Thank you
hmmmm….I’m ready…..for the BODY, BACK AND STRAPS…..do I add 1/2″ on each side for the seam allowance. I feel that’s what your diagram shows. Am I correct. The other pieces show for example 8.5″ edge to edge.
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for writing in! Our cutting instructions do already include the seam allowance, so you don’t need to add one when cutting out the pieces and each step does include instructions for how much a seam allowance to use when sewing.
Best of luck and happy sewing!
Julianna
Please can you advise the maximum size this would fit? I would like to make it in size 24.
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out! I would say this one would comfortably fit up to a women’s large or extra large. To customize it for yourself, I would first measure loosely around your waist to decide how large you would like the finished apron to be, and then, using the sizing diagram, figure out how much width you would like to add and which panels you would like to add it to – for myself, I think I would want to add more width to the front and back panels and leave the side/pocket panels the same, but you can change the dimensions however you like. You may also want to add some length to the straps and trim them as needed when you are able to try on the mostly assembled apron.
After cutting out the pattern pieces to your new dimensions, you can then follow the assembly instructions as written!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, I was interested in the linen you have used for this apron. Both of the linens really. Wondering if these need to be ironed after washing?
Hello Landry,
Thank you for your interest! Your are correct, these linens do need to be ironed after washing.
I hope this helps and happy sewing!
-Marilla
Hi
When aligning the side pocket to the back, you have the edge of pocket C which is 23” on top of the back piece which is 27” So how can the bottom edges line up?
Thanks
I’ll await your answer to enlighten me !
Hi Marian,
Thank you so much for reaching out! After assembling the pocket pieces A, B, and C, the total length of the assembled pocket should match up to the length of the back piece. Basically, although the short edge of Pocket C is only 23″, when assembled, Pocket B and C will form the pocket lining which sticks out several inches higher than the length of Pocket C alone. The back piece also loses an inch of length in the first step of the pattern when the top edge is hemmed and the strap is attached.
The pocket assembly is tricky, but we have included lots of pictures in the pattern to make it as clear as possible!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love this apron! I love the simple design, deep pockets and ease of wear. I made it out of a solid linen/cotton fabric and love the softness and drape of the fabric. I found your pictorial instruction images to be very helpful, I wouldn’t have made it through the side pocket instructions without them. I too, found the apron a bit long and shortened it 3 inches (I am 5′-9″). I added a decorative contrasting color top stitch along the top edge of the front panel for (in lieu of a straight top-stitch) for a subtle decoration.
This is a wonderful pattern; exactly what I was looking for! Thank you so much! I just finished it as a gift, and wanted to comment on the sizing for anyone else who has questions about making adjustments for taller people. I was concerned about making it for my brother, who is just about 6 ft. tall. But I am 5′ 9″ (and normal weight) and I used myself as a guide, and the sizing is perfect just as it is. I did make the body one inch larger since he is a man and wider than I am across the body. But the length of the straps was more than enough; in fact, I had to cut them! I found linen on sale and didn’t stop to think about the width of the fabric, so I only bought the 1 3/4 yds that the pattern called for. My fabric turned out to be about 52″ wide and I had just enough. The apron turned out beautifully, and I can’t wait to see how it looks. Thank you again for this great pattern!
When you are turning the half inch hems on this how are the edges finished. It looks like a finished edge but the instructions don’t say to turn twice other than the top back edge.
Thanks
Hi Anne,
Thanks for writing in! Can you let me know where you are in the pattern? For all of the 1/2 inch hemmed edges, we do say to fold twice. This is save for the top hem, which is folded 1/2 inch and then folded again 2 inches! If we are missing one, it would be great to know.
Best,
Cassy
Please put the directions for the left pocket. Not everyone can think in reverse. Sometimes you have to actually see it.
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out and for sharing your thoughts with us! While we are not able to add new images for the left pocket at present, the written directions do not differ for the left hand pocket. We will certainly keep your kind request in mind for the future and please know that we are happy to answer any questions that you might have!
Best,
Cassy
Thank you so much for this pattern. It is exactly the one I was searching for. I will make it as soon as possible.
Best regards.
Aude
Hi there!
I was looking for a pattern of an apron that does not go around the neck as I previously made one for my mother and she doesn’t wear it because she doesn’t like them. I found this one and it looks perfect! I was hoping you could answer some questions before I start. I purchased fabric years ago to make a new apron but haven’t started until now. I have 2 yards of fabric at 42″ which does not align with what you have but I am trying to make it work! I think I will shorten it a bit but I want to gather your thoughts regarding width before I start. My mother is maybe 220lbs and about 5’8″. Do you know if the current pattern you have listed above will work? Also, if I shorten it would I need to shorten everything including the straps or just the pockets, front, and back? Thank you in advance!! I am VERY excited to start this project!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! You will be cutting things quite close with only two yards of a narrower fabric, but if you scroll up to Linda Theil’s comment, she was able to cut her apron out of less than two yards! Once thing to keep in mind though is you may want to add a few inches of width to the center and back panels which will affect the yardage and cutting layout. Since your mother is not particularly short, I would probably not shorten the straps since the top of the apron might then sit too high on her chest, but you will need to shorten the pockets, front, and back to remove length. This can also be done after the fact while hemming if you prefer!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Here are my notes on sizing up this beautiful apron:
https://appletondance.blogspot.com/2018/12/notes-on-purl-soho-cross-back-apron.html
I just finished making this for my friend. We work at a unique gift shop together. I used heavy weight linen and a different fabric, a vintage cotton print, for the interior of the pockets (pocket pieces B). My friend is very particular and would never go for cute or folksy so this pattern was perfect. I surprised her with it for Christmas so I had to finish it without fitting it to her. I am way taller than her so my strap adjustments were way off but after pinning it (for later alterations) it was perfect. She loves the deep pockets that are great for her phone while working.
Thank you for this!
P.S. I love your comment, “so I’ve decided to focus on the one detail I know I can get right: the cooking attire”
Thank you for this pattern. The instructions were great, I am pattern challenged and only had to take apart the pockets once to get it right. LOL It is a quick sew and fun too.
My daughter sent me an Etsy link to an apron much like this one, and she asked me if I could make one like it. Thanks to your excellent tutorial, yes!! Thank uou so much! You helped me give an an excellent gift!
Hi, which pocket side (a,b,or,c) is the front piece? I’m trying to gauge which fabric I’m wanting to show. Thanks!
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out and our apologies for the delayed response! Pocket C is the outer facing portion of the pocket!
Happy sewing!
Cassy
I have made this apron three times and posted notes on the process on my AppletonDance crafts/sewing weblog at
https://appletondance.blogspot.com/2018/12/notes-on-purl-soho-cross-back-apron.html#.XDeAL89KiMI. Notes include layout for creating a larger version.
This is a perfect pattern and idea! I love it! I am obsessed with pinafores and aprons of all kinds and have made this adorable apron twice. Once in denim and another time in light apolstry fabric. It has a vintage feel which I love. Thanks so much for making and posting such an amazing pattern! I appreciate that this is still posted!
I recently made your apron, followed the instructions to the letter. Fairly easy for a novice sewer, but finished width is 35 inches and I have no idea where I might have gone wrong. All the other measurements are correct. Any thoughts?
Hi Gwen,
Thanks for reaching out! Curious indeed! I ran through all of the measurements and the seams and it will result in a 39 inch wide apron. My guess is that perhaps some of your seams were larger than the ones that we used here. That could account for the reduced width of the whole apron. In general, the overall width is not super critical as the apron is designed to fit a wide variety of bodies with the back being more open or closed depending on the person wearing it. So long as your apron fits and covers your front, you should be all set.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’m a plus size lady, and I wear a 2x. I want to make one of these in the worst way but have no idea how to adjust the pattern. Can you help with that and what size would you consider your parents to fit.
Hi Caron,
Thanks for reaching out! Although most of our patterns have specific sizes and much larger size ranges, I would say this one would comfortably fit up to a women’s large or extra large. To customize it for yourself, I would first measure loosely around your waist to decide how large you would like the finished apron to be, and then, using the sizing diagram, figure out how much width you would like to add and which panels you would like to add it to – for myself, I think I would want to add more width to the front and back panels and leave the side/pocket panels the same, but you can change the dimensions however you like. You may also want to add some length to the straps and trim them as needed when you are able to try on the mostly assembled apron.
After cutting out the pattern pieces to your new dimensions, you can then follow the assembly instructions as written!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you for sharing this pattern, excellent instructions, I really enjoyed making this apron, the French seams give it a lovely finish.
I made this today as a gift and it was loved by, not only the recipient, but the others at the party! I have a feeling I will be busy sewing some more in the weeks ahead.
A great pattern with high end details.
Thanks!
I’M IN THE PROCESS OF MAKING THIS APRON. THE DIRECTIONS CAN APPEAR INTIMIDATING BUT MY ADVICE IS “DON’T OVERTHINK”. YES, THERE ARE 45 PAGES OF INSTRUCTIONS BECAUSE LITERALLY EVERY SINGLE STEP IS COVERED – SIMPLY AND EASILY.
I’M USING HOMESPUN IN 2 DIFFERING BUT COMPLIMENTARY PATTERNS. IT’S SO CUTE!!
THANK YOU FOR PROVIDING A GREAT PATTERN AND TUTORIAL WHEN APPARENTLY NO ONE ELSE WOULD, SO SAYS MY RESEARCH!!
YOUR TIME IS TRULY A GIFT AND I CAN’T THANK YOU ENOUGH!!
If I want to omit the pockets, do I just cut out the pocket C pieces and ignore the A and B ones?
Hi Kacy,
Thanks for reaching out! Since Pocket B and C fold together with Pocket C to create the full length of the pocket panel, Pocket C on its own will be a little short. You will need to increase the length of Pocket C by 4 inches to make it fit with the length of the back panel.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you for this pattern & well thought out instructions. Just made my first one & plan on making 5 more for family. I‘m using buttons & buttonholes on the front to make it fit everyone ranging in heights from 5’2” to 5’11”. It’s adorable, thank you again!!
Is there a kid’s size available for the Cross Back Apron? I’ve made the Kid’s Ric Rac Apron, which is adorable, but want to make a mother/daughter set of Cross Back Aprons.
Hi Betty,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a kids’ version of this pattern; however, I will be sure to pass your suggestion along to the design team!
Best,
Julianna
Hi quick question, what are the dimensions of the finished pocket?
Hi Ivy,
Thanks for reaching out! The finished pocket panel is 7 1/2 inches wide and 24 inches tall on the short side, though the actual pocket only extends about halfway into the panel.
Happy sewing!
Julianna
Just made my first one of these. I sewed the first pocket correctly and then got the second one wrong and had to undo it – how did I manage that? Other than that it all went together very well.
This one is a gardening apron for me. Following Linda TheiI’s suggestions (see above), because I’m a UK 18, I increased the widths of each pattern piece by 2″ and it fits me very well.
My fabric was a green cotton twill 150cm/60″ wide and I cut out the pieces by folding the fabric in half lengthwise wrong sides together (so I could easily label each piece on the reverse in chalk and not get the pocket pieces mixed up). Then I cut the body piece half width on the fold and fitted in two further widths for the other pieces across the fabric. One strap cut across the grain of the fabric was long enough to make 2 straps, each nearly 30″ long, which was just enough for me. So I managed to get the apron out of 1.5m of fabric.
Alternations I’d make on the next one: (1) the top edge of the pockets has come out a bit high, perhaps because I made them wider? So on the next one I’ll reduce the length of Pockets B and C by 2-3″ to drop the top edge down a bit. The pockets will still be plenty deep enough. (2) Also where the finished seams joining the backs to the pockets and the pockets to the body are sewn down, I’d increase the distance of the ‘topstitching’ from 1/4″ to 3/8″ from the seams. This is especially necessary at the ‘bib’ section at the top of the body where the raw edges of the seam allowances are folded in then tucked in 1/4″. A ‘topstitch’ 1/4″ from the seam might not catch in the raw edge of the fabric.
Thanks for making this pattern available free.
I just finished this apron and love it. I made this out of an upcycled cotton shower curtain, perhaps a bit on the heavy side but I think it looks great and I like the way it feels. After watching the series Delicious, with Dawn French I wanted her apron. This is nothing like hers as I am sure hers wasnt an old shower curtain anyway I will continue my search but this one is a winner and I see more than one in my future. Thx for the great, free pattern, you rock/
Well I seem to be in the minority but I found the directions remarkably confusing. THe pattern looks so simply I was sure this was going to be quick and easy but the directions left me repeatedly scratching my head. One of many confusing things I ran across – Text says that the back is 3/4″ talller than the side pocket yet my side pocket is taller than the back.
Hello Sarah,
Thank you for reaching out! Are you at “ATTACH THE SIDE POCKETS TO THE BACK” section? What are the measurements of your pieces?
I hope I can help!
-Marilla
I am having the same problem. Admittedly this is my first solo sewing project, so I’m sure I’ve done something incorrectly. I was able to piece the pockets together correctly, I think, but both of my pockets ended up longer than the back piece when aligning the bottom raw edges. The short side of my pocket is 25 1/2 inches, my back piece is 26 inches. So it lines up on the long raw edge and then the pocket quickly slopes taller than the back.
Hello Ashton,
Thank you for reaching out and apologies for the delayed response! Your back is slightly taller than the Side Pocket, this is correct. The top edge of the Side Pocket piece should hit the top edge of the Back about ¾ inch in from the raw edges. You then pin the two pieces together along the aligned side edge. Sew along the pinned edge with a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
I hope this answers your question- if not let us know!
Happy sewing,
Marilla
Different Sarah, same problem. The back panel measures 26 inches, and the short edge of the pocket measures 27 inches. I don’t see where I could have missed a seem or something that would account for the extra length. I just keep staring at it hoping the answer will appear.
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help!Your pocket panel will be 3/4 of an inch taller than the side panel. You can see this in the image right below “Attach the Side Pockets to the Back”. The additional quarter inch is reduced earlier in the pattern where you “with right sides together, stack Pockets B and C on top of each other, lining up their top sloped edges. Pin in place. Sew along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance.” This will bring the pocket panel from 27 inches to 26 3/4 inches and the additional 3/4 will be a bit taller than the side panel and this additional height is reduced away in the “Attach the Side Pockets to the Back” section.
I so hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
I am a 3x up top and a 4x down bottom am i going to be able to fit in this or will i have to try to do adjustments 🙁
Hi and thanks for writing in! I do believe you will have to adjust the pattern to fit – I would say the original size would comfortably fit up to a women’s large or extra large. To customize it for yourself, I would first measure loosely around your waist to decide how large you would like the finished apron to be, and then, using the sizing diagram, figure out how much width you would like to add and which panels you would like to add it to – for myself, I think I would want to add more width to the front and back panels and leave the side/pocket panels the same, but you can change the dimensions however you like. You may also want to add some length to the straps and trim them as needed when you are able to try on the mostly assembled apron.
After cutting out the pattern pieces to your new dimensions, you can then follow the assembly instructions as written!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you for this free pattern. I’m hoping to embroider people’s dogs on the front. See http://www.whosyourfurbaby.com
Hello Valerie,
Thank you for sharing – What a cute Idea!
Happy sewing,
Marilla
I have finished my apron and am very pleased. It is comfortable and just right. Thank-you for the pattern.
I just made this (my first true sewing project since junior high!) and actually made it through all the steps. I would like to make another one but working with the linen was probably the biggest challenge (I had help from a friend who taught me about “squaring” the fabric before we cut the pattern out). I don’t really want to bother her again and I do not think I know enough to square it on my own. I love the linen but is there another fabric you would suggest that would be a little more user-friendly for a beginner? Thank you!
Hi Lynn,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m so happy to hear you enjoyed making your apron! 100% linen can be quite tricky to work with, but fortunately you could sew this apron out of almost any medium to heavy weight woven fabric, such as Robert Kaufman Essex or Essex Yarn Dyed, or even a lighter weight denim like Draper Denim. Essex is narrower than the original fabric and may shrink when pre-washed, so I would recommend getting an extra half to full yard. With a more stable fabric and a bit of experience under your belt, I’m sure your next apron will be even more successful!
Warmly,
Julianna
OMG my apron turned out fabulous. I can’t Thank You enough for this wonderful pattern, thankfully very explicit instructions and tell tale pictures. Perfect in every way!
My only recommendation to readers is to STAY STITCH each of the angled pocket cuts prior to handling too much to discourage bias cut stretching.
Thank you again, very generous to give us this gift.
I made this as a gift for my 5’4″ daughter. I shortened it quite a bit from the published pattern. In case it helps others, here are the details: Less 8″ (body, back, pocket C); less 2″ (pockets A and B); less 19.75″ (strap). This retains the wonderful deep pockets but eliminates the excess fabric at the bottom of the full-length original design. It hits just above knee and my daughter loves it.
Is it possible to order the pattern for cross-back apron (or shop apron)? I so dis-enjoy my noisy, wasteful printer! & it seems not-green to print on report paper only to transfer the dimensions full-scale to trace or news print. If not possible to order, where can I find instruction for transferring print-out into an actual pattern? Thank you! Very attractive website and fabrics! Glad to discover:))
Hi Helaine,
Thanks for reaching out! We don’t have a printed pattern for either pattern available, but fortunately, you don’t need to print anything at all! Both aprons are made up from simple rectangles, so rather than using templates or pattern pieces, you can simply trace the correct size rectangles directly onto your fabric. You can find the dimensions of the rectangles, as well as a cutting layout, in the pattern above under the header “Cut.”
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Thank you for this pattern and detailed instructions! I made 2 aprons, for different people with different heights. I read every comment posted to see if my issues had been answered. New sewists shouldn’t have a problem with this apron; I have been sewing for 40 years and some of the construction details seemed to go against my sewing skills and knowledge, but the instructions are so detailed that I just followed them and everything came together as it was supposed to.
My biggest issue was cutting out the pattern. I don’t have a large enough table to use a rotary cutter and mat with the fabric layed out in a single layer; I layed my single layer of fabric on the floor and used a yardstick and pencil (or chalk) to mark the fabric before cutting out the pieces with scissors. I trimmed the pieces up using a rotary cutter and mat after I cut the pieces out.
For each apron, I had 2 yards of fabric with a 42” usable width and could cut the pattern out using the length of fabric, except for the 2 straps, which were cut from the width of fabric. Picture a huge rectangle with the 72” long (2 yards) along the top and bottom, and the 42” width of fabric running along the sides. From upper left corner and moving to the right, I first cut the BODY, then POCKET B; going back to the left side, I then cut a BACK, followed by the 2nd BACK; going back again to the left side, I then cut POCKET C, and then a FLIPPED POCKET C; moving back again to the left side, I then cut POCKET A, a FLIPPED POCKET A, and a FLIPPED POCKET B. (Flipped meaning each pocket piece has 2 different angles). You will have at least a 17” wide by the entire width, 42”, of fabric on the right side. From this I cut 2 straps, each 42” long. This length is long enough for most every strap unless you are making for someone with an extremely long torso. It is long enough if you decide you want to use buttons/buttonholes to make it adjustable. If you choose to do buttons and buttonholes think about how you will do this before you start. I think the easiest way to do it is to have the buttons in the back rather than in the front.
I made a small mock-up (about 8” by 4”) of the pocket using a small scrap of paper. I cut out the 3 pocket pieces, just eyeballing the angles. I followed the directions and used staples for the seams. This gave me an idea of how the pocket went together. Really, as long as you have mirror images of each pocket (what I called ”flipped” above), the pocket comes together easily. Don’t overthink it!
I added a strip of different fabric at the top of pocket C (which shows on the outside) and for the lining(POCKET B) for some added interest. If you add a strip of contrasting fabric, be sure that the final pocket piece(s) are trimmed to the correct size per the layout.
For a 5’1” person – I added 1” to the top of the BODY (I used a contrasting piece of fabric), I used a 28.5” long strap and cut off 7.5” from the bottom of the apron before hemming with a 1” hem + ½” turned under. This was just above the knee.
For a 5’6” person – I used a 29” strap and cut off 4.5” from the bottom of the apron before hemming with a 1” hem + ½” turned under. This was just above the knee.
Thanks again for this pattern! I hope my observations and suggestions help someone in the future.
Hello Susan,
Thank you for sharing your experience! I’m sure all of our readers will be very grateful.
Happy sewing!
-Marilla
I can’t seem to figure out the top hem of the bib section. If I sew 1/2 in. seams and then flip the 2 inch section back the side seams don’t line up. The top 2 inch hem section becomes narrower than the side. Any idea what I am missing here?
Hi Lori,
Thanks for reaching out! When you reverse the fold of the 2-inch hem to sew the 1/2 inch seams, you should also unfold the side edges of the body that you pressed under in the previous step and then sew along the fold lines. The 1/2 inch seams should line up with the folded under edge when you turn the 2-inch hem right side out!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you for the pattern. The instructions were super easy to follow and I now have a beautiful apron to get messy in. I made it out of white thick cotton so I’m going to embroider some patterns on it, not sure if I’ll go for cakes or cartoons?
Now I have to make one for my daughter.
I can’t find where to download this pattern…. I see the instructions above but not finding the pattern link?? please help?
Hi Samantha,
Thanks for reaching out! Since this apron is comprised entirely of simple rectangles, there are no pattern pieces to print! You can find the dimensions for each rectangle above in the section titled “Cut” above!
Best,
Julianna
The left pocket isn’t coming out right. You don’t have a step by step? I followed the instructions just as you said.
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have the resources at this time to create a tutorial for this step; however, the process is similar to how the pockets are formed in our Gathered Skirts For All Ages pattern. If you scroll down to the Pockets section, you will find a short video demonstrating how to assemble the pockets, which may be helpful!
Best,
Julianna
Do you have measurements for a child’s size, please?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! We do not have a children’s version of this apron, but I will certainly pass your request along to the design team! You may be interested in our Kid’s Ric Rac Apron!
Best,
Julianna
I have just finished making your apron out of an old curtain. It’s a floral and feels a bit like cotton canvas. Some of the layers I needed to be a bit patient with but my machine coped ok. I’ve been sewing for a long time and don’t often read all the instructions but with this I really had to concentrate! It was a pleasure to sew in this covid19 time of isolating – not sure if I would have completed it otherwise. Not because it’s not gorgeous – because it is – but my motivation to sew an apron was not that high. But now after 40 years of loving sewing and cooking – I finally have an apron I’m going to love wearing. Thank you for an excellent pattern and the instructions and photos that were so clear and elegant.
This is a fabulous pattern and the instructions are great. I see that it is noted as one size fits many….do you have any tips on cutting pieces to result in a larger sized apron? Which pieces could easily be made wider and which should remain the same width?
Hi Karen!
Thanks so much for reaching out about this pattern! I think that the simplest option for upsizing the apron would be to cut a wider piece of fabric for the body section, keeping the sides and pocket sections as in the original pattern. I would keep the straps at the original width, regardless of any other changes. You might want to plan on having 2 yards, instead of the original 1 3/4 yards as the pattern calls for, but I think that this would be a simple way to make it larger.
Happy Crafting!
Cassandra
I’ve been making this apron as my first attempt at sewing clothing.the instructions are very clear, the pattern is so easy to cut out, and the steps are easy to follow. I adore this project and have found it very easy to adjust the apron to fit smaller sizes. Thank you so much for sharing this!
Hello: Just a comment about how you set up pages to print — unless you know how to scale the pages, this pattern will print out as 30-40 pages — the pages of the colors of linen are totally unnecessary to include — even in a PDF. Would be really thoughtful if you could set up a simpler version of instructions so we don’t waste so much paper. I’ve found this to be true of many of your knitted patterns as well.
Just an environmentally friendly thought
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for reaching out about this! We definitely want to avoid wasting paper whenever possible! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%. You can pick and choose whichever parts of the pattern and/or images that you don’t want, and just be left with the parts that you really need to print out. I hope this helps!
Best,
Cassandra
You certainly never need to print out a pattern like this that has taken the time to list sizes for cutting out the necessary pieces. You can follow along the pictures while you sew. Printing (at least to me) is completely unnecessary!)
Thank you for sharing your pattern. I found it a few years back and finally made it. Made two for my mom and mother in law. They came out great. A perfect Mother’s Day gift for 2020. Everyone is baking and needed a new apron. ?Thank you!
How can I modify the measurements to fit a child (3-6 years of age)?
Hello,
Thanks for writing in! While we do not have this pattern written in sizes for children, I will be more than happy to pass your request to our design team! For smaller sizes, our Kids Ric Rac Apron is a lovely adjustable apron designed just for kids from 2-10!
Best,
Gaby
Best,
Cassy
I”m in love with this apron. I’ve made 3 in the last 2 days….I seriously want it to be my uniform.
Thank you so much for this pattern! It was complicated but I found that if I followed your directions carefully I was good to go. I am 5’0″ 115 lbs., so I took off 1 inch on the width of the body, 1/2″ off the sides, and 2″ off the bottom. I also found that the straps were much, much too long, even as I used fabric with a 44″ nap. I think my straps ended up at 29″ each but, again, I am petite. I also did my pocket A and B and straps in a contrasting fabric and had just enough of it left over to do a front pocket (after I cut 15″ off the straps) and a ruffle on the bottom. I hope this helps those who are looking to modify!
I am in love with my new apron! I made it up out of Essex Homespun Linen in Roasted Pecan– it was delicious to work with. I bought 2 yards of 44″ wide fabric. I had to do some calculating to figure out the layout and a few pieces came out too short but I found the pattern to be very forgiving. You can shorten the hem if needed, and also use selvages as the seams are all hidden, but that said, next time I make it if I use 44″ fabric I will buy 2 1/2 yards to give myself a little more wiggle room. Also for those of you adjusting the pattern, as written the straps are VERY long, I cut off more than 12″ from each (5′ 8″, 165 ). By leaving them longer you can adapt the fit. All in all I loved this pattern and found the instructions, though confusing to read, worked out fine if I just trusted them and did exactly what they said step by step. It was a very Zen process and made up a very Zen apron! Thank you for sharing this lovely creation.
How much fabric do I need to buy for this apron? Thank you.
Hi Ann
Thanks so much for reaching out! This apron takes 1 ¾ yards Handkerchief Linen which is (56-60 inches wide). Hope this helps!
Happy sewing
Jessica
I just love your apron but it looks way too small in the body for me. I am a 3xl would you have measurements for someone of that size?
Hi Val,
Thanks for reaching out! We don’t have exact measurements, but I’m happy to share some tips on how to customize the fit! I would first measure loosely around your waist to decide how large you would like the finished apron to be, and then, using the sizing diagram, figure out how much width you would like to add and which panels you would like to add it to – for myself, I think I would want to add more width to the front and back panels and leave the side/pocket panels the same, but you can change the dimensions however you like. You may also want to add some length to the straps and trim them as needed when you are able to try on the mostly assembled apron.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Just finished making this fab apron in a beautiful cotton oxford, Fig Tree from DailyLike (Canada)
Thank you for such great instructions, can’t wait to make more !
You guys have always great projects and I love you ship internationally… which takes me to kindly ask if it possible to include metric equivalent units of measurement for you projects.
thanks.
Hi Dri,
Thanks for writing in! We totally hear you regarding metric sizes and measurements. This is something that is currently under consideration, so we really appreciate your input!
When I need to translate a pattern from metric to US imperial, I like to use Google’s conversion tools. I type “convert cm to inches” into Google and a purpose-built calculator will appear. You can certainly do the same thing in reverse to convert all of the measurements you seek into metric!
Best,
Julianna
The apron turned out wonderful! I did have to stitch rip the first pocket apart though. It wasn’t working out the way the instructions were. I found it worked perfectly when I used pocket piece C in the place of A and pocket piece A in place of C. I wish I could upload a picture of it as it turned out great! I used funky superhero cotton on the front and black everywhere else! Thank you!
It is a lovely project , unfortunately the rather detailed explanations (specially pockets) makes it look more difficult than it is.
I’ll be adding some sort of adjustable strap instead of sewing them fixed.
A 1 min video would be great,
Hope everyone is in good health,
DK
Hi Dri
Thanks for writing in! Glad you are enjoying our project, and that’s a great idea to add an adjustable strap! We don’t currently have the resources to create a video at this time, but I will certainly pass your request along to the design team!
Happy sewing!
Jessica
When you say in step 2 fold the long edge of the back piece in 1/2″ twice….does that mean I’m hiding the raw edge?
Hi Libby,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct! You will essentially be hemming the long edge of the back pieces, as they will be exposed when the apron is complete.
Happy sewing!
Julianna
This looks amazing!
I’m a novice sewer and I am really looking forward to attempting this pattern. My gran has given me an excellent duck egg blue linen tablecloth to make it with. If it works out, it will look stunning!
But…. the inch to cm conversion is going to give me a real headache. Has anyone converted it already by any chance?
Hi Helene,
Thanks for writing in! We totally hear you regarding metric sizes and measurements. This is something that is currently under consideration, so we really appreciate your input!
All the best,
Julianna
What a beautiful pattern!
I’ve used a cotton drill for mine in stunning sage green and attached straps in the back so you can tie it as well.
It’s supposed to be a sample for a customer! If she wants more I might as well just make one for myself, haha.
Thank you, so much!
How do you recommend cutting out the pattern? How do you, pro-sewers, cut simple patterns like this?
I made this for my first sewing project and it turned out so wonderfully! I am going to make another for my husband… The biggest problem I had was that the pattern I had cut from parchment paper was not accurate (I think the yard stick I was using wasn’t straight, I think I may have dropped a couple inches, and I also had some scissor problems). I am making a trip to the sewing shop before my next project to stock up on fabric and some sewing tools. I tried to look on youtube how to measure and cut patterns but the videos I found referenced bought patterns, not patterns you measure out yourself. What tools do you use (or recommend)?
Thanks for your time!
L
Hi Leona,
Thanks for writing in! When sewing a pattern like this that doesn’t come with pattern pieces, I prefer to draw the rectangles directly onto the fabric, rather than creating pattern pieces. It’s still a bit tricky to get everything just right, but it does cut out a step and save some time! The best way to do this is to lay out your entire yardage if you have enough space and use a quilter’s Rectangular Ruler – the 6.5″ by 24.5″ is my favorite! Because it is wider than a yard stick, you can use the corners to make sure your rectangles have perfect 90 degree angles and it’s much easier to hold still while drawing straight lines. If the line I’m tracing is longer than the ruler, I will slide the ruler up so it still overlaps the previous line by several inches to make sure the line stays true. You can also measure the width of the rectangle at several points to make sure it is consistent. Depending on the color of your fabric, you may be able to use a regular pencil to trace everything, but it’s also good to have a white Water Soluble Pencil or Chaco Pen on hand! You might find our Rotary Cutting Tutorial helpful for learning different ways to use a quilting ruler to keep your edges nice and square!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Can I buy this pattern and materials from you ???
Hi Sherry,
We don’t sell a template for this pattern, but all the information for making this pattern is available for free on this page. Please let us know if it is not showing up for you. We made our aprons with our Handkerchief Linen You’ll need 1 3/4 yards for this project.
Let me know if you need any additional help with this!
Best,
Oscar
What a fabulous pattern. I had decided to make aprons for. All of our 7 granddaughters and also 2 daughters and 2 daughter in laws for Christmas. So 11 to make. I went to the Ikea sale and bought the perfect fabric, Vinter. It was 50p per metre instead of £4 per metre so bought a huge amount to make the aprons. This will be my chosen pattern Thank you
Just made it and love it! This apron looks and functions so much better than aprons with ties. The most difficult part was the cutting since I used mid-weight linen and the pieces kept shifting out of shape. In the end, top stitching through all layers of French seams was a bit fidgety but it came out beautifully and would last a long time. Thank you so much for posting the pattern.
Oh, I used masking tape to stick to the right side of the fabric and label A, B, C, etc. This helps eliminate putting the wrong pieces or wrong sides together.
I made this in heavy linen a while back and use it all the time. The best apron ever and now my daughter wants one too… I found it straightforward to make but have sewn the straps together where they cross so I don’t have to wrangle with it to put on!
Love the pattern. I am making one with a fabric that has phrases written on it. I am a little concerned about cutting out the pockets. Which pocket pieces are showing? I don’t want to have the words upside down.
Hi Therese,
Thanks for writing in! I previously mentioned that “For the pockets, Pieces A and B are visible!”, but I’m afraid after doing some extra testing on our end we’ve learned that was incorrect. We’re confident now that Pocket A is the piece that peeks out the top, Pocket B is the pocket lining that doesn’t show at all, and Pocket C is the outer piece of the pocket that is most visible and will be joined to the apron front and back.
Apologies for any confusion and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gianna
I think pocket piece C is actually the part of the pocket that shows. I’ve made three of these, using contrast fabric for section C. They turned out great, although it may be too late for Therese.
Hi Sheila,
Thanks so much for catching this and sharing what you’ve found in your own project! After doing some extra testing on our end we found the following results and have updated our previous comments with that in mind.
Pocket A is the piece that peeks out the top, Pocket B is the pocket lining that doesn’t show at all, and Pocket C is the outer piece of the pocket that is most visible and will be joined to the apron front and back.
Our hope is that Therese sees this as well and we’re so sorry for the conflicting information!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Thanks for a clear pattern and a beautiful apron!
Is the seam allowance included in the pattern?
Hi Malin,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! Yes, the pattern pieces include the seam allowance!
All the best,
Gianna
I’m excited to make this cute pattern. I’m fairly new to sewing. Can I leave out the side pockets and add square pockets to the front instead, or are the pockets necessary for the pattern to work? (Like I said, I’m new to garment sewing 🤣)
Hi Cindi,
Thanks for reaching out! You can absolutely leave out the side pockets and add square pockets instead and it shouldn’t have an affect on the overall pattern!
Please feel free to reach out with any more questions you may have going forward!
All the best,
Gianna
I have made five of these aprons so far. I picked a washable linen blend that doesn’t wrinkle as easily as pure linen. They look wonderful and I can’t wait to give them as holiday gifts!
A couple hints for novice sewists.
ALWAYS pre-wash your fabric. I serge the raw ends to prevent fraying, put it in a short rinse cycle and gently dry. Iron as necessary. If you don’t have a serger machine you can run a zigzag stitch along the raw edge.
For this pattern it is especially important to take the time to make sure one cut edge of the fabric is straight. Cut yardage can often be slightly off, especially if you ordered from an on-line source.
Use a rotary cutter and large quilter’s ruler to make the cutting go more smooth and easy. It keeps the sides of the rectangles straight, making assembly easier.
Hi MD,
Thanks you for reaching out! I am so glad to hear that you have enjoyed making this pattern! Thank you so much for sharing your tips this is greatly appreciated!
All the best,
Gianna
When I saw pictures of the apron I would loved it and knew I would initially make 2 and more later. But I didn’t want to measure out the pieces every time I went to make the apron. I didn’t read all 300 reviews (only 100) so perhaps someone thought of this idea already☺️ and kudos to them. Since 5 of the 6 pieces are 8.5 width, I used copy paper (8.5×11) to make a permanent pattern. Just adding sheets according to each length of pattern piece and scotchtaping it. Just use yardstick to make angles on pockets A, B & C. This enable me to cut out 2 aprons and sew at same.
Also, to save paper I only printed pages 17 and 18 to guide me with pattern and cutting. I downloaded the rest of pages in my tablet as a pdf. This made it very easy to slide back and forth through the directions. The directions are clear and to point if you take your time. One more tip, keep that iron close and PRESS those seams. Your project will come out looking very professional. There is just so much you can do with material and personalizing! Hope these tips help. Many, many thanks to Gianna for such a beautiful pattern.
Hi Linda,
Thanks for reaching out and sharing your tips with everyone for this pattern, they are much appreciated! I am so glad to hear that you have enjoyed making this apron!
All the best,
Gianna
Can I make this with 2 yards of fabric that are 44 inches wide?
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for reaching out! That should be plenty to make this! You may need to adjust CUTTING LAYOUT a bit since width is less than what we used, but that should be fairly easy!
Happy crafting!
Gianna
I created a children’s version today. Turned out perfectly according to your directions.
The finished width is 24 inches and it is 22 inches long.
Height from pocket to top of front is 4 1/2 inches
Back – 17 inches high X 6 inches wide
Front – 26 inches high X 8 inches wide
Pocket A – 15 1/4 inches high X 11 1/4 inches wide
Pocket B – 10 1/4 inches high X 14 inches wide
Pocket C – 20 1/2 inches high X 16 1/4 inches wide
All the seams and hems are the same dimensions as this pattern.
Thought I would share, as this pattern was free for me and so appreciated.
Tie – 5 inches X the width of the fabric.
Just realized that the measurements I gave are incomplete for the pockets, PLUS Pocket A was off by a bit.
Pocket A – 16 1/2 inches on highest side
12 1/2 on the short side
6 inches wide
Pocket B – 10 1/4 inches on the short side
14 inches on the highest side
6 inches wide
Pocket C – 20 1/2 inches on the highest side
16 1/4 inches on the short side
6 inches wide.
Hi Claire, Thank you so much for offering this information on your child’s version. Can you give an idea of what size these measurements would make? I’m excited to make this for a Christmas present!
I am planning on weaving. Y own cloth for this project. Are the dimensions given the finished size without the seam allowances? So, cut the front to 13″ and the pockets and back to 8 1/2″?
Hi Emma,
Thanks for reaching out! What a great idea! The finished dimensions don’t include the seam allowance since once the piece is finished the seam allowance will already be accounted for. The pattern pieces include the pattern pieces so the pockets should be cut out as written for example: pocket A should be 8 1/2″ wide, 20″ on one side and 16″ on the other!
I hope this clarifies things!
Warmly,
Gianna
I really struggled with following the instructions for the side pockets. I wish the pictures taken were taken from a slightly further distance, so I could see all edges of the pieces. I’m not able to finish the apron, which is a bummer. I tried watching the video referenced to figure out the pockets, but it wasn’t helpful (for me). Hope to revisit this pattern one day.
Thanks for the great pattern! I altered it because I only had about a yard of material, but it still worked well! Omitted the pockets by just cutting pocket piece C a bit longer, which is effectively the side panel. (I did add one small, simple rectangular pocket on one side with my last scrap… easy to add one when adding the side piece). Also cut the pieces slightly smaller, using the finished dimensions given in the completed diagram above… The result fits a women’s xs or s, or larger kids size). I was worried my lighter cotton fabric wouldn’t hang well, but the seams give it structure. Anything heavier would have been difficult to sew through. Hope this is helpful for someone else looking for a last minute gift!
Hi Eskye,
Thanks for reaching out and for sharing your tips with everyone! It is much appreciated!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this pattern but am completely lost when it comes to the pocket instructions….possible video?
Hi Sharon,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have a video tutorial explaining the pocket, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
I made this clever little apron in a 7.1 oz/sq yd linen fabric. I cut the strap pieces 6 inches wide and sewed them with a 1/2 inch seam to get a finished width of 2.5 inches. I had to size up a bit and read in one of the comments that if sizing up, make the finished width 5 inches greater than your hip measurement. So that’s what I did and it came out just about perfect. I increased the front width from 13 inches to 15 inches, the sides from 8.5 inches to 10 inches and the backs from 8.5 inches to 10.5 inches. The next time I make it, I’ll try making the sides 9 inches wide and the backs 11.5 inches wide.
PatB,
I see that you made the straps more narrow but the apron wider for a custom fit. What size person would your pattern fit, if You don’t mind saying?
Thanks!
Rosy
Hi, I am trying to make the cross back apron. I have made 4 attempts at the pockets. I have taken apart my linen so much. I’ve had to cut new pockets. I am completely lost and ready to toss my project. I get as far as the last step, (the paragraph above the picture of the layout for the left side pocket) ….Lay the Side pocket with the right side facing up…then the wheels fall off the bus. A few examples of my troubles, no matter what I do Piece C never has a sloped edge. It is completely straight. Piece B is too small to successfully lay flat on piece A. There is always a baggy flap of loose material you can put your arm through like a sleeve. I am at a loss. Please HELP!! Thank you!! 🙂
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for reaching out! I am sorry to hear that you are having problems with the pocket! I am not completely sure what the issue may be, so please send a photo of your work to our team at [email protected] and we can troubleshoot further from there!
All the best,
Gianna
I too can’t figure out the pockets. Help.
Hi Lynda,
Thanks for reaching out! What seems to be the problem with the pockets that you are experiencing to better help explain!
Looking forward to your response!
Gianna
Thanks for the response. I cannot get them to line up. I put it aside for a couple weeks so I’ll try again. I got some hints from googling so will let you know how it goes.
Lynda
I put it away for a month and when I returned to it I figured it out. It would have been helpful if my wrong side fabric had showed more contrast. Thanks it turned out great!
Hi Lynda,
That’s great news, I’m so glad to hear that you were able to figure it out! Let us know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Hi, I love the look of this pattern.
Do you have a downloadable PDF of the pattern pieces that can be cut out? I can’t find this in the above instructions so assume that I’d need to measure each piece and mark out the fabric to cut the pieces. Is that correct? And if so, what are the angles for the diagonal shapes?
Many thanks,
Kate
Hi Kate,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, that is correct, since these are large pieces we do not have a printable pdf for this pattern, so you will simply need to make out the dimensions! For the angled pieces, you will measure out each vertical line (as instructed) and then connect the top together creating the diagonal! For example, Pocket A will be 20″ on one side, 16″ on the other, once you have those measured you will connect them creating the diagonal!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Thanks for the pattern. It’s going to be an early Christmas present for a friend having plenty of time to get it done early enough for her holiday baking. To anyone else making it I would suggest reading the instructions carefully, and maybe read them again. It might make things easier and frustration free.
Thank you for this pattern. It was so easy to follow and modify. I made my first apron today. It won’t be my last. I think it will make a great gift for my crafty friends.
Thank you for this pattern – it’s great. I do have one question, which interestingly nobody else in the Comments mentions so I figure it’s on me! In the section “Attach the Sides to the Body” I had trouble with this instruction: “Make a small, 1/4-inch clip into the seam allowance, following the slope of the Side piece so that the unsewn side edge of the Body can lie flat.” I made my clip but I ended up with a raw edge (bottom edge) in that part of the side. I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. Any thoughts? Or possible could you clarify this instruction? Thanks again. Hoping someone will see this as I am going to make a second one of these starting tomorrow!
Hi Sue,
Thanks for reaching out! Please send this information along with photos of your work to our customer service team at [email protected] and they can troubleshoot further from there what may have happened!
Warmly,
Gianna
I just love this pattern. Thanks for helping me with my issue. I’ve now made three aprons and have plans to make more. I really appreciate the pattern and the support!
Hi Sue,
I was so happy to see your post about the raw edge. I have made 7 of these aprons and every one has that flaw. Another friend also found that issue and we can’t figure it out. What did you end up doing so that it didn’t show?
Hi Kat,
It looks like Sue ended up sending a photo of their work to us at [email protected], where we were able to help with the issue! I’d recommend doing the same so that we can better visualize what’s going on and provide more specific advice.
All the best,
Lili
Which pocket piece becomes the outside/front of the pocket?
Hi Kay,
Thanks for writing in! The pocket piece that becomes the outside is pocket piece B!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there! Which pocket piece becomes the bit peeping out above pocket piece B? Is that pocket piece C? I’d like to use a different fabric there for a bit of visual interest, but I’m having a hard time following as I cut my fabric.
Thanks!
Hi Tory,
Thanks for writing in! I previously mentioned that “Pocket pieces A and B are the visible ones so I’d recommend using a different fabric for A rather than C.”, but I’m afraid after doing some extra testing on our end we’ve learned that was incorrect. We’re confident now that Pocket A is the piece that peeks out the top, Pocket B is the pocket lining that doesn’t show at all, and Pocket C is the outer piece of the pocket that is most visible and will be joined to the apron front and back.
Apologies for any confusion and please let us know if you have any other questions! Thanks for writing in!
I hope that helps!
All the best,
Zha Zha
In case it helps anyone else: the top part of the pocket (the side touching your body when wearing the apron) is piece A; the longest piece, piece C, is the exterior of the pocket; and the interior of the pocket (right side facing your body) is piece B.
Hi Jen,
Thanks so much for sharing your findings! We did a bit of testing on our side just to confirm and found the same results. We’ve also gone ahead and corrected all previous comments that referenced what should be used and hope that’s helpful for everyone trying this pattern as well!
All the best,
Zha Zha
I am revisiting this project as I’ve finally decided to sew an apron. Looking over all the comments about the slanted pocket pieces I can’t help but think – how hard would it have been for you all to include, at least, a pattern for that one piece that is giving so many people a problem. In my opinion you probably spent more time responding to questions regarding pockets than it would have take you to make a template and include it in the pdf.
Other than that – thank you for providing tutorials. Going the extra step on unusual pieces to help benefit those new at sewing would be a much appreciated benefit.
Hi Molly,
Thank you for reaching out directly about this. While we can certainly see how a PDF template would be helpful for cutting the pocket pieces, I’m afraid that we don’t have a printable PDF for any parts of this pattern! We made this decision because the pieces are simply too large for an easily usable template.
However, one other commenter found a very clever way to make their own templates! Since most of the pieces (and all of the pocket pieces) are 8.5 inches wide, they taped together sheets of 8.5×11 inch printer paper until the sides equaled the vertical lengths and then used a yardstick to create the angles on the slanted pocket pieces.
I hope this alternate suggestion is useful for you. And thank you again for reaching out; we truly appreciate your feedback!
All the best,
Lili
Can I do a tutorial video of this pattern on Youtube? I really liked this pattern, and I wanted to share this to my audience. Mostly they are Indonesian and I will translate the measurement into metrics (which heavily used in this country). I will surely credit the pattern into this website/link.
Thanks!
D
Hi Dhia,
Thanks so much for checking in with us first! You are welcome to translate any of our free patterns into another language and produce them as videos, as long as you do not sell them. In addition to including credit to us, we also ask that you include this text at the top of your translation or in the video description when sharing it with others:
This pattern is brought to you by Purl Soho. The pattern is copyrighted with all rights reserved and cannot be resold. Items made from this pattern may not be resold. The original pattern can be found here: [INCLUDE LINK TO PATTERN ON PURLSOHO.COM]
It has been translated from English into _______ by _________. Purl Soho is unable to verify the accuracy of this translation, but if you have any questions we’re always happy to answer in English at http://www.purlsoho.com
Thanks again for thinking of us and please let us know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Zha Zha
Excellent pattern, and always a delight to see properly finished seams which is something most commercial patterns neglect.
I used leftover denim and printed canvas for a two-tone finish, durable enough for woodworking. Some of the french seams were a bit rough on even my old vintage monster at this thickness, but with the suggested linen they would have been a breeze.
Thank you for your comment, Nicole! We are so glad you enjoyed this pattern, and can’t wait to see what you sew next!
All the best,
Margaret
Thank you SO MUCH for this pattern! I used some leftover muslin, and used a cotton print for the pockets, for contrast (also because I ran out of muslin ;D )
You are very welcome, Elizabeth! Your apron sounds beautiful and we hope you enjoy it for many years to come!
All the best,
Margaret
Alright! Everyone is getting an apron for Christmas!
There is NO free pattern??
Hi Emma,
Thanks for reaching out. You can find the free pattern for this apron on the page above! However, you’re correct that there is no template for the pattern pieces. That’s because they are too large to easily fit in PDF format, and the shapes are also quite easy to cut from measurements only, so tracing isn’t necessary! You can find the dimensions of each piece in the CUTTING LAYOUT section.
I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
My apron turned out beautifully! I used a yellow/white floral linen. Thank you for the easy to follow tutorial and helpful pictures!
It would be better if you make a video because I would understand much better,
Hi Suzana,
Thanks for writing in. I’m afraid that we do not currently have the time and resources to create a video tutorial of this entire pattern. We’re so sorry about that!
We do have a number of sewing tutorials already, which you can find on this page. These might be useful for you, as there are certainly some that are applicable to this pattern! Additionally, we are always happy to answer any questions you have, so if you run into a trouble spot, please don’t hesitate to reach out.
All the best,
Lili
Perfection! Purl Soho patterns are just incredible. Simple. Beautiful. Thoughtful. Such attention to detail with finished seams. Your patterns make me look like an expert! I pinned this years ago and finally made one for myself with some poly/cotton as a light-weight house-cleaning apron. Loved it so much I have made two more as Christmas gifts. I think I may need to make one in every fabric I can find! Thank you for sharing this tutorial for free. It was a joy to sew this apron!
Hello! I’m writing to you from Spain. I love this apron so much. I was wondering whether the dimensions of the CUTTING LAYOUT section include seam allowance and how much of it.
Thank you and congrats on your page!
Hi Cecilia,
Thanks for reaching out. The seam allowance is indeed included in the dimensions of the CUTTING LAYOUT, and the pattern specifies how much there is during each step (it sometimes differs)! Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Made a couple of these for my mom for Christmas, one Christmas themed & one green & green gingham. They were a big hit. Thanks for the pattern, it’s so nice.
Good Morning,
Do you have instructions to enlarge the pattern and order adequate fabric for larger sizes?
Thank you,
Hi Karmann,
Apologies for the delayed response! I think that the simplest option for upsizing the apron would be to cut a wider piece of fabric for the body section, keeping the sides and pocket sections as in the original pattern. I would keep the straps at the original width, regardless of any other changes. You might want to plan on having 2 yards, instead of the original 1 3/4 yards as the pattern calls for, but I think that this would be a simple way to make it larger.
All the best,
Zha Zha
I’m about to sew this for our adult daughter who is 5′ 1″ tall. To accommodate her height, would you suggest adjusting with shoulder strap length or hem length or both. She lives 7 hrs away so i can probably adjust the fit when i get there but i’d love to have it as complete as possible beforehand. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Hi Kathe,
Apologies for the delayed response! I would recommend adjusting the shoulder strap length over the hem length to make sure it sits higher on her chest and provides enough coverage. I hope you’re able to see this before she arrives, but I’m sure she’ll love it either way!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Thank you for this pattern with full instructions. I really like how it is constructed with closed seams. My finished product looks so professional. I used some denim I had on hand and didnt have quite enough so I used a different fabric for the inside of the pocket and you would never know.
Than you again.
Great pattern, although I did cut 20″ off the straps before I attached them. Loved the finish on the inside using French seams. My neighbour gave me some old ripped sheets of very high quality fabric. I made her an apron from one as a thank you.
A few people will be getting aprons next Christmas!
Can I buy this pattern
Hi Cathy,
This is a free pattern! You can find all the instructions and other necessary information available on this page.
All the best,
Lili
I would love to see pictures of how to put pockets together. I must not be doing something correctly.
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for reaching out. We do include pictures of how to put the pockets together in the pattern instructions! You’ll just need to scroll down the page a bit to find them.
All the best,
Lili
This is a great pattern, but why fail to mention the French seams in the actual instructions? The description at the top mentions “durable French seams”, but the steps below merely give a description of how to sew a French seam without actually explicitly stating that they are French seams. This was quite confusing to me until I put two and two together. Other than that, I am looking forward to wearing and gifting this apron many times over!
Hi Carrie,
Thanks for reaching out about this! We completely agree with you that this is confusing, so we’re going to add a mention of French seams into the instructions themselves. Thanks again for bringing this to our attention!
All the best,
Lili
A friend made an apron with this pattern and I’m excited to get started on one of my own!
I’d like to do a slight contrast at the pockets so the higher inside piece is a different colour (with straps to match)
Which piece, A B or C, is the higher pocket that peekaboo shows ? I hope that makes sense 😉
Hi Nixy,
That’s a great idea for this pattern! Pocket A is the higher pocket, so you’d want that one to be a different color. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Sorry for the delay- thank you so much! All prepped, and putting it together today!
Just stitched the hem and have it all ironed so my apron is crisp and — if I do say so myself — beautiful! First time doing French seams and oh, what a finish it gives! I had read all the comments before starting (ALL the comments!) so I was ready when the pockets came ’round. No issues whatsoever; just follow the very clear directions and voila! it works! This will be a sort of hostess gift for my cousin in northern Canada, with whom I’ll be spending a week. She uses a full apron so I’m eager to present her with this bright, beautiful, new one, full (full!) of love! Thank you ever so much for your generosity in making this pattern available to us. I am so grateful.
This pattern looks beautiful! Do you have any suggestions for modifying the sizing for someone who is 5’2″ tall and very thin? Thank you!
Hi AB,
Thanks for writing in! I would recommend making the back, body, and pocket pieces both narrower and shorter. You may also want to make the strap pieces shorter as well!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you! This is an awesome pattern! Instructions are clear and easy to follow- even for someone who doesn’t do tons of sewing. I love how this turned out. Made this as a gift for my sister’s bridal shower.
Hi Suzanne,
Thank you so much for letting us know about your success… We’re so happy to hear that it was smooth sailing! What a beautiful gift and congratulations to your sister!
Best,
Whitney
I liked the pattern. Was just the style I was looking for. It wouldn’t be for beginners as the French seams are tricky. But the instructions were fairly clear and I really liked how nicely finished those seams made it. But…I cut off over 20 inches on each strap, which meant wasting quite a bit of fabric. I am 5’3” and so also cut off over 4 inches from the bottom. Would liked to have known I could get by with less fabric. But thanks for the pattern.
Hi there,
This pattern, and all of your fabrics, are so lovely, thank you! I have two questions regarding this pattern:
1. How might I modify it to make one for an 8-10 year old?
2. How might I make this reversible?
Thank you so much!
Melissa
Hi Melissa,
Thank you for writing in! While we’d love to be able to help you with this, I’m afraid these kinds of modifications would be outside the scope of support we can offer at this time. Not to worry though because we have some ideas for you!
As an alternative, we recommend trying a pattern that has instructions for smaller sizes built in like this one! You can also make a matching version for yourself by following our Adjustable Apron pattern instead.
I hope at least one of those options works for you, but please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
I’ve just come back to sewing after a 30+ year hiatus, and I can’t believe what I’ve been missing! I am currently sewing my fourth apron using your ingenious cutting layout and impeccable tutorial, for gifts and home use! Thank you SO much for taking the time to share such a fun and functional design.
Hi Sarabeth!
We are so happy to hear this! We are also ecstatic that you have fallen back in love with the craft of sewing! Have a wonderful time and thank you for supporting Purl Soho!
Happy making,
Gavriella
What a lovely pattern and tutorial! I usually read the instructions once or twice before starting and some of the steps were hard to wrap my mind around. But, once I began actually cutting, sewing etc I found it very easy to follow along. Thank you! I also followed the suggestions in the comments on choosing a different fabric for the peek-a-boo pocket and for shortening up all the panels & straps. So, now I have a beautiful, made-to-fit apron that doesn’t rub up against my neck. I also added a large front pocket(for the all of the miscellaneous mom stuff I inevitably inherit). So fun to make!
Hi Jaqueline,
Thank you so much for such kind words! We are thrilled to hear you have completed this pattern and found feedback from our comment section helpful! Thank you so much for sharing!
Happy making,
Gavriella
I am currently making this fabulous apron and am having no problems following the detailed instructions and pics. I am giving it as a gift and therefore do not want to fit it on the recipient, and am trying to work out the length of the straps. I have already cut the straps out at 36″. I believe I read somewhere that your model was about 5’6″ and am wondering if you could tell me the finished length of the straps on your model – my recipient would be roughly the same height. My other thought was attaching strap adjusters to get over the length of strap issue? Would appreciate your comments.
Hi Penny,
Thanks for writing in! I searched the previous comments on this pattern and found a comment from Corinne that may be helpful. Here’s what she wrote:
As a starting point, our straps are cut to 32 inches long for a finished measurement of 28 1/2 inches for our model who is around 5’6″ and usually wears a size 2 or 4. The length of the straps varies mostly as actual garment size goes up, rather than height. So, if your sister generally wears a size 2 or 4, you can keep the strap length similar, otherwise I would add or subtract around 1/2 – 3/4 inch for each shift in garment size.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Many thanks! That was the comment I was searching for but couldn’t find it!