Knit T-Shirt
I recently learned that the first T-shirt was born in the 19th century when someone decided to cut in half his one-piece union suit, the undergarment of choice in those days. To the wielder of those scissors, I say thank you.
Since then, the T-shirt has become a truly universal garment. From its beginnings as an undershirt for miners, farmers, longshoremen, and troops to its celebrity-inspired mass appeal as the uniform of cool (a la Marlon Brando, James Dean, even Marilyn Monroe), the T-shirt has always fit right in.
Every modern decade has integrated the T-shirt into its trends. Sure, slight alterations have been made here and there (in the 80s it was all off-the-shoulder Flashdance; in the 90s it was all down-to-the-thighs Snoop Dogg ), but it always comes back to the basic, ever-so-classic, white, “T”-shaped shirt.
While of course T-shirts are typically made of cotton, I couldn’t resist the brillant white and lustrous sheen of Habu’s fingering weight 100% Bamboo. It’s magically cool to the touch and has a drape that’s both casual and elegant. I also couldn’t resist adding my own little alteration: an optional breast pocket that provides an opportunity for a POP of color, knit here in Koigu’s intensely saturated hand-dyed Koigu Premium Merino.
I know I’ll wear this piece for years, since there’s no chance of it going out of fashion. Perhaps one day paired with jeans, the next with a long, flowing, fanciful skirt. The T-shirt, it’s lasted the test of time, it knows no bounds! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoKnitTShirt. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Main Color (MC): 2 skeins of Habu’s 20/12 Bamboo, 100% bamboo. This is the color White. For Habu’s Dyed Bamboo options, click here. If you wish to substitute a different yarn, you will need 765 (880, 990, 1100, 1200) yards.
- Contrast Color (CC): 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) skeins of Koigu’s Premium Merino (KPM) Needlepoint Yarn, 100% merino wool. This is color 1133.
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 24- or 30-inch circular needles
- US 4, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 4 double pointed needles
- Stitch marker
- Stitch holder or scrap yarn
Gauge
25 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
Small (Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large)
- Finished Bust Circumference: 34½ (38½, 42¼, 45, 50) inches
- Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 16 (16½, 16½, 17, 17) inches
- Sleeve Length from Underarm to Cuff: 2½ (2¾, 3, 3¼, 3½) inches
- Sleeve Circumference at Cuff: 11½ (12½, 13½, 14½, 15¼) inches
Pattern
Body
Using the 24- or 32-inch circular needle and MC, cast on 216 (240, 264, 288, 312) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Knit 1 round.
Purl 1 round.
Knit 4 rounds.
Purl 1 round.
Continue in stockinette stitch, knitting each round, until the piece measures 16 (16 1/2, 16 1/2, 17, 17) inches from cast-on edge, or desired length to underarm.
Divide for Front and Back
Bind off 12 (16, 20, 24, 28) stitches, k95 (103, 111, 119, 127), place previous 96 (104, 112, 120, 128) Front stitches on hold using an additional needle or scrap yarn, bind off the following 12 (16, 20, 24, 28) stitches, knit to end of row. [96 (104, 112, 120, 128) stitches for Back]
Back
Shape Back Armholes
You will now be shaping the Back, working back and forth across the stitches in rows rather than in the round. The stitch counts in the following two sections do not include the Front stitches on hold.
Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 4 stitches, purl to end of row. [92 (100, 108, 116, 124) stitches]
Row 2 (right side): Bind off 4 stitches, knit to end of row. [88 (96, 104, 112, 120) stitches]
Row 3: Purl.Row 4: K2, slip, slip, knit (ssk), knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]Repeat Rows 3 and 4 three (four, five, six, eight) more times. [80 (86, 92, 98, 102) stitches]
Continue working even in stockinette until armhole measures 6 1/2 (7, 71/2, 7 3/4, 8) inches, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Back Shoulders
Row 1 (right side): Bind off 7 (7, 9, 9, 10) stitches, knit to end of row.Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 7 (7, 9, 9, 10) stitches, purl to end of row.Row 3: Bind off 7 (8, 8, 9, 9) stitches, knit to end of row.Row 4: Bind off 7 (8, 8, 9, 9) stitches, purl to end of row.Repeat Rows 3 and 4 once more. [38 (40, 42, 44, 46) stitches]Next Row: Bind off remaining stitches.
Front
You will now be shaping the Front, working across the stitches you had previously put on hold. With wrong side facing, rejoin MC.
Shape Front Armholes
Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 4 stitches, purl to end of row. [92 (100, 108, 116, 124) stitches]
NOTE: Row 2 begins the Inset Pocket (optional); if you wish to work a pocket, go to “Row 2 With Pocket”. If you prefer not to work a pocket, go to “Row 2 Without Pocket”.
Row 2 With Pocket (right side): Bind off 4 stitches, k7 (10, 13, 13, 13, 16), p21 (21, 21, 23, 23) to create pocket turning row, turn work. Go to “Make Inset Pocket”.
Row 2 Without Pocket (right side): Bind off 4 stitches, knit to end of row. [88 (96, 104, 112, 120) stitches] Go to “Continue Shaping Front”.
Make Inset Pocket
You will now be working the Pocket on the 21 (21, 21, 23, 23) pocket stitches, using two double pointed needles. Leave the remaining 67 (75, 83, 89, 97) stitches unworked on the circular needle.
Row 1 (wrong side): Working on pocket stitches only, and using double pointed needles, p21 (21, 21, 23, 23.Row 2 (right side): K21 (21, 21, 23, 23).
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the pocket measures 3 (3, 3, 3 1/2, 3 1/2) inches, ending with Row 2.
Cut working yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail.
With CC, repeat Rows 1 and 2 until the pocket measures 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) inches, ending with Row 2.
Cut CC yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail.Slip the pocket stitches onto the right-hand end of the circular needle.
Rejoin MC, leaving a tail long enough to sew the sides of the pocket, and continue working in stockinette across to the end of the Front.
Continue Shaping Front Armholes
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 2 (right side): K2, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three (four, five, six, eight) more times. [80 (86, 92, 98, 102) stitches]
Continue working even in stockinette until armhole measures 3 (3 1/2, 4, 4 1/4, 4 1/2) inches, ending with a wrong-side row.
Next Row (right side): K30 (32, 34, 36, 37), bind off the next 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) stitches, knit to end of row. [60 (64, 68, 72, 74) total stitches: 30 (32, 34, 36, 37) stitches for right side of Front, 30 (32, 34, 36, 37) stitches for left side of Front]
Shape Right Side of Crewneck
You will now work the right and left sides of the Front separately, starting with the Right Side. Stitch counts below are per side, not total.
Row 1 (wrong side): Working on Right Side stitches only, purl.
Row 2 (right side): Bind off 3 stitches, knit to end of row. [27 (29, 31, 33, 34) stitches]
Row 3: Purl.
Row 4: Bind off 2 stitches, knit to end of row. [25 (27, 29, 31, 32) stitches]
Rows 5 and 6: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 once more. [23 (25, 27, 29, 30) stitches]
Row 7: Purl.Row 8: K2, ssk, knit to end of row. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 9: Purl.Repeat Rows 8 and 9 once more. [21 (23, 25, 27, 28) stitches]
Continue working even in stockinette until armhole measures 6 1/2 (7, 7 1/2, 7 3/4, 8) inches, ending with a right-side row.
Shape Right Shoulder
Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 7 (7, 9, 9, 10) stitches, purl to end of row.
Row 2 (right side): Knit.
Row 3: Bind off 7 (8, 8, 9, 9) stitches, purl to end of row.
Row 4: Knit. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 once more.
Shape Left Side of Crewneck
With right side facing, rejoin MC to stitches on hold for left side.
Row 1 (right side): Knit.
Row 2 (wrong side): Bind off 3 stitches, purl to end of row. [27 (29, 31, 33, 24) stitches]
Row 3: Knit.Row 4: Bind off 2 stitches, purl to end of row. [25 (27, 29, 31, 32) stitches]
Rows 5 and 6: Repeat Rows 3 and 4 once more. [23 (25, 27, 29, 30) stitches]
Row 7: Knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [1 stitch decreased]Row 8: Purl.
Repeat Rows 7 and 8 once more. [21 (23, 25, 27, 28) stitches]Continue working even in stockinette until armhole measures 6 1/2 (7, 7 1/2, 7 3/4, 8) inches, ending with a wrong side row.
Shape Left Shoulder
Row 1 (right side): Bind off 7 (7, 9, 9, 10) stitches, knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Purl.
Row 3: Bind off 7 (8, 8, 9, 9) stitches, knit to end of row.
Row 4: Purl.Repeat Rows 3 and 4 once more.
Sew Shoulders Together
Sew left and right shoulders together.
Neckband
With right side of Back facing and using shorter circular needle, join MC to pick up stitches for the neckline. Starting at the right shoulder and working across the Back neck stitches first, pick up 109 (114, 118, 121, 125) stitches around the entire neckline.Purl 1 round.Bind off very loosely in knit.
Sleeves
Beginning at the center of the 12 (16, 20, 24, 28) stitches that were bound off for the underarm and using shorter circular needle, join MC and pick up 84 (92, 100, 108, 116) stitches around the armhole.
Shape Sleeve Cap
You will be working in short rows, back and forth, turning the work part way through each row, rather than continuing to the end of the needle. For a tutorial, click here.
Row 1 (wrong side): P51 (56, 61, 66, 71), wrap and turn.
Row 2 (right side): K18 (20, 22, 24, 26), wrap and turn.
Row 3: P18 (20, 22, 24, 26), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, p1, wrap and turn.
Row 4: K20 (22, 24, 26, 28), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, k1, wrap and turn.
Row 5: P22 (24, 26, 28, 30), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, p1, wrap and turn.
Row 6: K24 (26, 28, 30, 32), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, k1, wrap and turn.
Row 7: P26 (28, 30, 32, 34), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, p1, wrap and turn.
Row 8: K28 (30, 32, 34, 36), knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, k1, wrap and turn.
Continue in this fashion, working up to the wrapped stitch, working the wrapped stitch with the picked-up wrap, working 1 more stitch, then wrapping and turning, until you have a total of 4 (6, 8, 10, 12) stitches unworked at the center of the underarm (between wrapped stitches), ending with a right-side row.
Next Row (wrong side): P78 (84, 90, 96, 102), purl the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap, purl to end of row.
Next Row (right side): Knit, remembering to knit the wrapped stitch together with the picked-up wrap along the way.Place marker and join for working in the round.
Shape Sleeve
Change to double pointed needles.Round 1: Knit.
Round 2: K2tog, knit to last 2 stitches, ssk. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 five (six, seven, eight, nine) more times. [72 (78, 84, 90, 96) stitches]
Purl 1 round.
Knit 5 rounds.
Purl 1 round.
Bind off loosely in knit.
Make a second sleeve the same as the first.
Finish
If you made the insert pocket, turn the T-shirt inside out. Using the tail, whip stitch the sides of the pocket together.Weave in all the ends and gently block your tee.
Hello:
Struggling but determined to finish. Hopefully, this isn’t too silly but when picking up the 84 stitches for the sleeve are the 84 to be spaced evenly around armhole? Assume it has to be yes, but thrown off since instructions begin at the center of the 12 stitches bound off? Also, it is critical to pick up all 109 at the neck band? I did less and may redo it for the 100 time if it’s critical. Started a pattern more difficult than I assumed it would be, but love your free patterns. Thank you
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for writing in! Yes! You will pick up the stitches evenly around the arm hole. I find it helpful to use removeable stitch markers to mark the half way point and the quarter points (effectively dividing the arm hole into 4 parts) and then picking up a quarter of the stitches between each marker. I find that it makes it a bit easier to pick up stitches evenly.
I would recommend picking up the recommended number of stitches for the neck line. The issue that you may come to if you pick up less is that the opening may be too small for your head to pass through. Here again you can use the marker technique that I talked about for the armholes as this can help you figure out how best to pick up the correct number of stitches!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Thanks, once again for a helpful reply. Appreciate your suggestions. Kind regards, Lisa
It’s me again. I’m ready to start shaping the sleeve (p51 for row 1). My working yarn & purling on the wrong side means my sleeve shaping begins on the back side of the sweater. Does it matter if I start r1 on the front or back of the sweater? Sorry about all the questions, I need to read patterns more thoroughly before I start knitting, this pattern was a stretch for me. Thanks again for your help.
Hi Lisa,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! Where your short row begins (the front or the back) will depend on which sleeve you are working on. If you begin with the left sleeve (as you would wear it), you will be picking up stitches starting at the front and moving to the back. When you are done picking up stitches, you will turn your work so that you see the purl side or inside of the sweater and begin row 1. If you begin with the right sleeve, you will be picking up stitches starting at the back and moving to the front, thus your short row will begin at the front instead of the back.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, there! I’m knitting this in an XL for a med/large fit (my gauge is off), but I think there is an issue with the stitch count for dividing for the front and back in the XL size. The pattern says to knit 199 and then put the previous 120 on hold before binding off another 24 stitches, but I’m quite sure I should only knit 119! Unfortunately I didn’t catch this in time and am having to frog a bit, but I am enjoying the pattern regardless. Thank you!
Hi Julia,
Thanks for writing in! There is a typo in the pattern that you have discovered! We are so sorry! I have corrected it above. Instead of 199, it should read 119.
Our deepest apologies!
Cassy
There is an error where number of stitches in stitch count switched. Location is on page 7 if saved to pdf. The section is “Continue Shaping Front Armholes”. Line starting “repeat rows 1 and 2”. The stitches are … (… 92,89,102). The large size should be written as 98 instead of 89. Minor but it made me stop to recount twice to make sure I had not made a mistake.
Otherwise loving this project! Using smaller needles and yarn and knitting up a size. Seems to be working well.
Hi Karen,
Thanks for reaching out! We are sorry about the error and have fixed it!
Best,
Cassy
Thank you!
I also found a missing stitch count for the large size under Shaping Left Side Crewneck. The count should be 29 and goes where there is one count short in directions for that section).
Hi Karen,
Thank you again! All fixed!
Best,
Cassy
Hello! I would love to try this pattern using 100% linen yarn but read that linen doesn’t take on large swatches of stockinette stitch very well. Is it worth a try with this pattern, or will there only be heartache?
Hello Maisie,
Thank you for reaching out! I thinks this shirt would be beautiful in a 100% linen yarn. I think you should do it, linen is more difficult to work with than a wool, but it is worth the effort in my opinion.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hi,
When knitting this t-shirt in the recommended bamboo wool, is the t-shirt opaque enough to wear without an undershirt? If not, how would you suggest to remedy it?
Hello Jannig,
Thank you for writing us! My opinion is that this shirt is opaque enough that you would not need an undershirt, though you could always wear a tank top underneath.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I am going to make this sweater using caron baby cakes and size 8 needles in a large. Will this make the pattern larger or should I make in size medium. Love your site so very helpful
Hello Judith,
Thank you for reaching out! We recommend a gauge of 6 1/4 stitches per 1 inch in stockinette stitch on a size US4 so with a thicker yarn and a size 8 you will get a much larger gauge. Depending on which size you would like to make you may have to make further alterations to the pattern for it to be the size you want.
I hope this is helpful and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello, will the hems roll with this design? I knit the top-down cardigan and despite blocking after each wash the rolling always comes back! Will the purl row in this design, and the weight of the bamboo, prevent the hem from rolling up? This is lovely and I plan on ordering the bamboo from you this week but if there is a risk of rolling I will use a different method for the hems. Thank you so much!
Hello Pastille,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct, the weight of the yarn combined with the border at the bottom of the T-Shirt both help to prevent any curling. It knits up beautifully.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello! I have started knitting this tshirt and am loving the bamboo! I was wondering if the extra pocket layer is bulky? I have often made seamless pockets using double knitting and I think it could be a nice method for this design, what do you think? Or is the extra layer necessary to avoid the interior colour from showing through? Or perhaps other issues that I am not thinking of? Thanks so much!
Hello Pastille,
Thank you for reaching out! You can certainly re-think the pocket. I believe the design of it is to prevent the interior color from showing, as you suspected. Other than that there shouldn’t be any structural issues that I can think of. I say go for it and let us know how it turns out!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I just finished the pocket and the pattern says to place the pocket stitches on the right end of the circular needle. I assume this is the right end of the needle from the right side of the work?
Hello Janie,
Thank you for reaching out! This means the side of the circular needles that you would hold with your right hand.
I hope this clears things up!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hi there. I’ve modified the front of the t shirt by adding an ‘H’ for my daughter Hannah in a different stitch. When I divide for front and back, it has made it uneven. When doing the bind off for the front (16) stitches, should I also bind off on the other armhole (16) stitches??? Otherwise, it won’t be even.
Maybe I should do (8) on one side of the front and (8) on the other to get the 16 bind off stitches and do the same for the back. Seems . like this would make it more symmetrical.
This is probably obvious to most knitters, but I’m confused. Please help. Thanks, Barbara
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct that the 16 stitches for each armhole should be evenly divided between the front and back of the sweater. If you are having trouble figuring out where to start, I would suggest placing markers on either side of the 96 stitches for the front of the top, centered over your H design, and begin this row 16 stitches to the right of the first marker.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi,
Wondering if you can offer this pattern with long sleeves as an option as well. Would love to try this with a merino wool for a nice spring/fall layer.
Thanks!
Janet
Hi Janet,
Thank you for writing in! Although we don’t include instructions for knitting a longer sleeve in the pattern, it should be fairly easy to lengthen the sleeves. After picking up the stitches for the sleeve, you will need to work the “Shape Sleeve Cap” instructions as written, but could then continue knitting the sleeve to whatever length you like. Best of all, because of the construction of the sleeve, you could even try on the sleeve as you go to make sure it is the length you want!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi,
What is the row gauge? It seems to me it would affect the amount of yarn required.
Thanks.
Julia
Hello Julia,
Thanks for reaching out! If you are getting 6.25 stitches per inch you should get a row gauge close to 8 rows per inch.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello ~ I was just wondering how much ease the pattern should be made with. Thanks! ~
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! This is one of our older patterns that was written before we made fit recommendations, so unfortunately I’m not sure. I would recommend measuring the chest of a t-shirt or thin sweater that you like the fit of and comparing that to the finished measurements for this top to choose a size!
Best,
Julianna
When shaping the back and front arm holes it says:
“Continue working even in stockinette until armhole measures 6 1/2 (7, 71/2, 7 3/4, 8) inches, ending with a wrong side row.”
Where do I measure from to get the required number of inches? I’m making the Large size, so want 71/2 inches for the back and 4 inches for the front but don’t know where to measure from.
Thanks in advance!! I know this is an old post :/
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for writing in! We’re always happy to help out with our designs, no matter whether they are old or new! To measure an armhole, you should make sure that you are measuring straight along a single column of stitches and not along the slope created by the armhole decreases. To do so, I like to trace an imaginary line even with the armhole cast off stitches about an inch into the body of the sweater, and then measure straight up from there so none of the decreases get in the way.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Would love to try this pattern. What would be a good substitute yarn for the Habu bamboo as I’ve noticed it is not available anymore. Could I use Burnish as a substitute?
Hi Micki,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, Burnish would be a perfect substitute for this T-Shirt! I always recommend working a gauge swatch whenever using a different yarn than the pattern to insure you are consistent!
Warmly,
Gianna
Do you still carry this bamboo yarn? The link on your website is broken.
Hi Isha,
Thanks for reaching out! We no longer cary the Habu Bamboo 20/12 (that is why the link no longer works!) However, in its place we recommend using our bamboo yarn, Burnish!
I hope this helps and please let mw know if you have any other questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’ve tried to knit this pattern. But every time I knitted a knit stitch the results were not great, did not produce a symmetrical V shape. The right leg of the V is good, but for the left leg it’s shaped rather like a straight line. I don’t know why.
Please help me and show me how to knit a knit stitch so the right and left legs of the V is symmetrical.
Btw this T-shirt is very beautiful. Thanks
Hi Yurike,
Thanks for reaching out! The problem you’re encountering is actually really common, and it has all to do with the yarn you’re using and how it’s been constructed. Your yarn has likely been spun so that all the strands twist to the left, which pulls that left leg up into a straight line. There isn’t anything you can change about your knitting to fix this, so if you’re unsatisfied with the quality of your stockinette stitch, then I’d recommend starting the pattern again with a different yarn!
You’ll want to use a balanced yarn to create stockinette stitch with a nice, symmetrical V-shape. This means that each ply has been spun so it twists in one direction, but then they’re spun together in the opposite direction! I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I was wondering if I could make this sweater into a mock turtleneck by knitting k1p1 or k2p2 ribbing on the neck stitches?
Your help would be appreciated. I have been searching for a simple, classic sweater to knit for my daughter.
Hi Beth,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely add a mock turtleneck with ribbing onto the neckline of this design! Instead of immediately binding off the stitches that you pick up around the neckline, just knit a few rows in whichever rib pattern you choose until it’s as long as you like. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there,
I would like to try this pattern but the Habu yarn nor the substitute Burnish previously suggested is no longer available? Any ideas on similar yarns?
Thanks!
Miya
Hi Miya,
Thanks for writing in! I’d recommend using Santolina instead. This yarn is a blend of cotton, bamboo, and hemp, so it has similar properties to both of the yarns we previously recommended. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi can this pattern be adapted for a man
Hi J D,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m happy to hear that this pattern has caught your eye! All of our patterns are designed to be worn by people of any gender, but some may fit different body types better than others. I’d recommend taking a look at the measurements listed under SIZES to get a sense of how it fits. If you’d like advice on making any specific modifications, just let me know what you want to change, and I can absolutely help out!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Can this be made of cotton (like Cotton Pure) or would the “drape” effect of bamboo be lost?
Thanks
Diane
Hi Diane,
That’s a great question! This pattern can definitely be made with a cotton yarn! A 100% cotton yarn wouldn’t have the same shine and lustrous finish as a bamboo yarn, but since it’s also a plant fiber, it will still have plenty of beautiful drape. I’m afraid Cotton Pure is a bit too thick though since it’s a sport weight and the pattern calls for a fingering weight yarn. I’d recommend Santolina (https://www.purlsoho.com/santolina.html) and Picnic Cotton (https://www.purlsoho.com/picnic-cotton.html) as great options to consider! Picnic Cotton is 100% Peruvian Pima cotton and Santolina is 70% organically grown cotton, 20% rayon from bamboo, and 10% hemp. Since Santolina has some bamboo in it, it will have a lustrous finish too!
All the best,
Cat