Sporty Striped Socklets
Socklet socks are just the thing for the short attention span of summertime lolly gagging! These little socks take the wonders of sock knitting and concentrate them down into one quick little project. Right away you’re into the heel flap, and before you know it, the heel and gusset follow.
These are based on my Pom Pom Socklets, which, over the past four (gasp!) years, have become a go-to Purl Bee pattern. But instead of bouncy little pom poms at the ankle, these Sporty Striped Socklets get their visual zing from six delicate ringlets of pretty color.
I used one of my all time favorite yarns, Koigu Premium Merino. It knits up into a wonderfully soft and machine washable pair of socks. And no need to buy entire skeins of the stripe colors, thanks to Koigu’s KPM Needlepoint Yarn, mini nuggets of just eleven yards each!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoSportyStripedSocklet. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 2 skeins of Koigu Premium Merino, 100%Merino Wool. This color is #1010.5. (Three skeins would be enough for two pairs.)
- 6 skeins of Koigu Premium Merino Needlepoint Yarn, 100% Merino Wool. These colors, from the left, are #2335, #2100, #1203, #2381, #1131, and #2220. (This is enough for at least two pairs of socks.)
- A set of US 3 (3.25 mm) double pointed needles
Shop our wonderful collection of fingering-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
32 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Size
Fit most women
- 7½ inches in circumference
- adjustable length
Pattern
The Cuff
With the Main Yarn, cast on 60 stitches to three double pointed needles.
Round 1: *K1, p1, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 five more times.
Knit 3 rounds.
The Heel Flap
Knit 15 stitches and turn the work so the purl side of the fabric is facing you.
Purl 30 stitches. (The 30 stitches that you just purled are the beginning of the heel flap. For this section, you will be working back and forth on just these 30 stitches.)
Arrange the stitches so that the 30 heel flap stitches are on one needle. Put the remaining stitches on hold on two needles (15 stitches each).
(Again, work the following rows back and forth, turning the work between each row.)
Row 1 (right side): *Slip 1 purlwise, k1, repeat from * to end of 30 stitches.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, purl to end of 30 stitches.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 fifteen more times.
Turning the Heel
Still just working the heel flap stitches:
Row 1 (right side): K17, ssk, k1, turn the work so the wrong side is facing you and there are 19 stitches on the left needle and 10 stitches on the right needle.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise, p5, p2tog, p1, turn the work. (18 stitches on the left needle and 10 stitches on the right needle)
Row 3: Slip 1 purlwise, knit to 1 stitch before the gap, ssk (with the stitch before the gap and the stitch after the gap), k1, turn.
Row 4: Slip 1 purlwise, purl to 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all the heel stitches have been worked and 18 stitches remain on the needle.
The Gusset
Knit across the 18 heel stitches.
With the same needle (now called “needle #1”), pick up 17 stitches along the heel flap. (35 stitches)
With a new needle (needle #2), knit across the 30 stitches that have been on hold.
With a new needle (needle #3), pick up 17 stitches along the other side of the heel flap.
Still with needle #3, knit 9 stitches from needle #1.
Now there are 26 stitches on needle #1, 30 stitches on needle #2, and 26 stitches on needle #3. Needle #1 is the beginning of the round (at the middle of the heel).
Round 1: Needle #1 – knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #2 – knit all the stitches. Needle #3 – k1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 60 total stitches remain.
The Foot
Knit 8 rounds.
With Contrast Yarn A (#2220), knit 1 round.
With the Main Yarn, knit 2 rounds.
With Contrast Yarn B (#1131), knit 1 round.
With the Main Yarn, knit 2 rounds.
With Contrast Yarn C (#2381), knit 1 round.
With the Main Yarn, knit 2 rounds.
With Contrast Yarn D (#1203), knit 1 round.
With the Main Yarn, knit 2 rounds.
With Contrast Yarn E (#2100), knit 1 round.
With the Main Yarn, knit 2 rounds.
With Contrast Yarn F (#2335), knit 1 round.
With the Main Yarn, knit evenly until the piece measures 2 inches less than the desired final length, measuring from the back edge of the heel.
Here’s a guideline for final sock lengths:
US size 6 shoe (European 37) = 9 inches
US size 7 shoe (38) = 9 1/4 inches
US size 8 shoe (39) = 9 5/8 inches
US size 9 shoe (40) = 10 inches
For example, these socks are for a size 7 1/2 shoe, so I knit the foot until it measures 7 1/2 inches (9 1/2 inches minus 2 inches).
The Toe
Round 1: Needle #1 – knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #2 – K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. Needle #3 – k1, ssk, knit to end.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 32 total stitches remain.
Then, repeat Round 1 until 12 total stitches remain.
With Needle #3, knit the 3 stitches from Needle #1 so that there are 6 stitches on each of two needles.
Use the Kitchener Stitch to close the toe.
Weave in all the ends, then get started on the second sock!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
these are absolutely adorable, and look like i can handle them even as a beginner sockstress. THANK YOU!
Love these! Could I make them into regular socks by increasing initial ribbing to maybe four inches? Thank you.
Thank you for this pattern. These ped socks will make excellent gifts!
I love these socks and the new variation but how do you make the join with new colours look neat. I am using magic loop and one side of the sock looks very messy with the color introductions. Thanks
Hi Ann,
Sure, sounds like a great plan! Let us know how they turn out!
Whitney
Hi Martha,
Yes, where the colors join does look a bit messy as you're knitting, but when you weave in the ends they clean up very well! Just make sure you cross the ends so that the left side tail goes to the right and the right side tail goes to the left.
Also, I hope you're not cutting the Main Yarn between stripes; you can just carry it up along the inside!
Let me know if you need any more help and thanks for your question!
Whitney
Thanks for this post. I made my first sock and used DPN for the first time ! Sadly, they turned out way to big but, I am going to try again 🙂
What does it mean when You say pick up 17 stiches along the heel flap?
Hi Maria,
If you have never encountered “picking up stitches” before, then you may find this Knitty tutorial very helpful: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter04/FEATwin04TT.html . When you pick up stitches in this case, make sure the right side (or outside) of the sock is facing you and that you pick up from right to left.
I hope this gets you on the right path. Please let me know if I can answer any more questions! A sock gusset is the first time I ever picked up stitches too!
Whitney
Hi there,
These are great and I am contemplating making a few of them for Christmas gifts this year! I have a question though. I was just looking at another project on your site that uses Tosh Merino Light. I would love to be able to use that yarn for both projects… Do you think that yarn would work for these socks? Thanks so much.
Hi Mairanne-
The Madeline Tosh Light would work for this, just make sure to do a gauge swatch before hand to get the right needle size.
Thanks for your question!
Molly
hello! these are my first socks, and I really appreciate your instructions and especially the pictures! its going well, but I've just reached the part where you knit the heel flap. This is I'm sure a silly question but I want to be sure:
You say to repeat rows 1 and 2 fifteen more times. is that a total of 15, or fifteen more each of rows 1 and 2 equaling 30 rows in total?
thank you for clarifying!
Hi Erin,
It's fifteen more Rows 1 and 2 equaling 30 rows (plus the original Row 1 and Row 2 = 32)!
Thanks for asking and good luck with the rest of your socks!
Whitney
I have a question about changing from the main color to the contrast color yarn. How much of a tail should I leave at the start of the contrast color and at the end of the contrast color? Is there a preferred technique for changing to a different colored yarn? I've seen tutorials who double up the contrast color for 3 or 4 stitches to make sure there's enough tension at the beginning of the row, but not sure if that would look “off” if the rest of the stitches
Hi Josephine,
I leave about a 6-inch tail at both the beginning and end of the contrast color. And while there are definitely other methods out there, I always just start knitting with the new color without doubling up the first few stitches. This leaves a hole and some loose stitches, both of which I fix up at the end when I weave in the ends. To change colors this way, you just have to be comfortable with some temporary messiness!
I hope this helps and thank you for asking!
Whitney
Sorry for the repetitive post…I seem to knit these socks often and I still struggle to get the stripes even on one side. Is there any chance you could post a video to show us how to weave in the ends to make the stripes look as even and as beautiful as yours (which I did see in person in store!). Thanks.
Hi again Martha,
I wish we had a video answer to this question, but until then I would add that, basically, the neatness of this area depends on getting all of your stitches to an even tension. This can be a bit challenging when you're cutting and carrying yarns. First, try using the tip of your knitting needle to tighten up the handful of colored stripe stitches that tend to loosen at the beginning and end of the round. And as you're knitting, pay a lot of attention to the tension of the first and last main color stitches as you change to and from the stripe color.
In addition, make sure you weave the right side tail across the seam into the left side stripe and vice versa.
Otherwise, keep in mind that, as you probably saw in the store, there is an inevitable jog at the seam, so don't be too disappointed if your stripes aren't perfect!
Thank you for asking and caring! I hope this helps!
Whitney
what size yarn does the yarn used work out at it? Is it sock yarn or double knit etc?
Hi Danielle-
All the yarn information can be found in the materials section by clicking on the yarns and the gauge can be found under the "gauge" headline of the pattern.
Thank you for your questions!
Molly
Hi, I was wondering if you think Crazy Zauberball would work with this pattern. Will it be thick enough yarn?
Hi Shannon-
We are not familiar with that yarn but a quick Google search makes me think it should be fine. The important thing is that you get the same gauge, 8-stitches per inch.
Thank you for your question!
Molly
Hi, this is my first pair of socks and I was wondering what you mean when you say to turn the fabric so the purl part is facing you. I'm not entirely sure what you mean when you say that and how exactly to do that. It'd be great if you could help. Thanks.
Hi Suzanna,
This means that instead the outside (or "right side") of the sock facing you as you work, you'll turn the whole piece around so the inside (or "wrong side") of the sock is facing you. Our Pom Pom Peds pattern has a photo of this step. It's the first photo in the Heel Flap section: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/the-purl-bee/2008/4/14/whits-knits-pom-pom-peds.html
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions and thanks for this one!
Whitney
So after you turn the work and you’re ready to purl the 30 stitches to start the heel flap, do you purl the 15 stitches you just knit, or do you keep going in the round like normal to purl those stitches?
Hello Jordyn,
Great question. You will purl the 15 stitches that you just knit and only work on those stitches for the entire section of the heel flap. That’s what they mean by working in “short rows”. You won’t touch the rest of the stitches until you get to the section called The Gusset. Best of luck and happy knitting!
Alyson
I need some help with the toe. When you are at 32 stitches remain how many stitches are on needle 1, needle 2 & needle 3? Also as you continue on toe and have 12 stitches remaining how many stitches should be on each of your needles?
I am a newbie with socks and have found this pattern very helpful. I have found it very helpful that the pattern provides stitch counts to let you know you are following the pattern accurately. The photos are great too. Love Purlbee!!!
Hi Becky,
When you start the toe you should have 15 stitches on needles #1 and #3 and 30 stitches on needle #2. (60 stitches total)
Then when you've decreased down to 32 total stitches, you should have 8 stitches on needles #1 and #3 and 16 stitches on needle #2.
And when you're down to 12 stitches, you should have 3 stitches on needles #1 and #3 and 6 stitches on needle #2.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you run into any problems and thanks for asking!
Whitney
These are the best sock instruction I have stumbled across ever! I have been trying to find a sock pattern that makes sense to me (as a new knitter) and others are not as clear and the pictures you provided made it really simple to follow! Great post!!!
When turning the heel, at end of row 2, there are 10 stitches on the right needle and 18 on the left and yarn is in the middle of them. Now how do you do row three when it says work to the gap and include one stitch on both sides of the gap when your string is in the middle to begin with? Not understanding this transition sorry
After you turn, and you have 18 stitches on the left, you’ll just follow the directions to knit to the gap (should be after 6 stitches out of the 18 on the left needle). The 7th and the 8th should be on either side of a gap.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Hello Purlbee team!
I’ve already made a pair of socks thanks to you and your lovely pattern. Every step is well explained and I had no problem in following the directions. I have a question though…
I was wondering why do you *slip 1 purlwise and knit 1* while making the heel flap? What is the purpose of making it this way? In your patterns the heel flap looks ribbed and is easy to spot, but I’ve seen other knitted socks and their heel flap is often plain. Should I just knit to the end of the row to avoid the rib? Will it mess the pattern?
Lots of love,
Sylwia
Hello Sylwia,
Thank you so much for your question. The slip 1, knit 1 heel flap makes a slipped stitch fabric which is stronger than a plain stockinette fabric. The slipped stitches create a kind of double layer to reinforce the heel. It is a lovely technique. I would recommend trying it once to see how you like it. I hope that helps. Please let us know if you have any other questions.
Happy knitting!
Allison
Now it makes sense. Indeed, slipped stitch fabric seems a bit thicker to the touch. If it makes socks more durable, then I’m totally into this technique. Thank you for making it clear, Allison!
Lots of love,
Sylwia
Hello,
Could you please tell me how to wash these socks. Does the needlepoint yarn shrink up more than the washable merino?
I love your shop, books, and purl bee! Thank you!
Hi Ann,
Thanks for your comment! The main yarn and the needle point yarns are the same yarn, so there is no difference in shrinkage. However, I do not recommend machine washing any hand knit socks. From personal experience, you will enjoy the socks for much longer if you soak them in a mild soap like Soak. If you choose to machine wash these socks, I would put them in on a cold, gentle cycle. If your washer has an option for knits, then do that. Do not dry them — they will felt! Good luck!
Best,
Adam
I’ve only knit one sock, and it used SL 1knit 1 for the heel flap instead of purl. I really don’t like the purling. Is it possible to use the sl1 knit 1 and substitute knittingg from the other side instead?
Donna
Hello Donna,
Thanks for your interest in this pattern! I think you could knit the back side of the heel stitch; you’ll just get slip garter stitch pattern instead of a true heel stitch. The pattern will have garter ridges, which is a style choice. For turning the heel you will also need to purl on the backside, so if you choose to knit both sides just know that you’ll have a garter stitch and this might not be as comfortable on the heel. All the best on the experimenting!
-Adam
Thanks so much for the speedy reply. I prolly ought to just follow pattern as written and experiment after I get a first pair done
Thanks
Donna
Hi,
I would love to knit these socks for my adult son but the pattern is only for s women size. I am a somewhat beginner knitter and am not sure how to convert this to a man size…
Thanks for your help
Hi Carolle,
Thanks for writing in! The circumference of this sock is rather generous and should accommodate most feet. All you will need to do to make these socks for a larger foot is to knit a longer foot. Luckily, this sock is has instructions for knitting different lengths for the foot.
With the Main Yarn, knit evenly until the piece measures 2 inches less than the desired final length, measuring from the back edge of the heel.
Here’s a guideline for final sock lengths:
US size 6 shoe (European 37) = 9 inches
US size 7 shoe (38) = 9 1/4 inches
US size 8 shoe (39) = 9 5/8 inches
US size 9 shoe (40) = 10 inches
For example, these socks are for a size 7 1/2 shoe, so I knit the foot until it measures 7 1/2 inches (9 1/2 inches minus 2 inches).
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Nice clear instructions, however, I’d like to make a smaller size for 7-year-old girl. Suggestions? Thank you.
Hi and thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not have a smaller size available for this pattern, but our Easy Heel Colorblock Socks do come in kids and adult sizes, and you could easily modify them to look like this sock! All you would have to do is knit the cuff of the sock about an inch in length instead of the 6 to 8 inches in the pattern, and add in a few narrow stripes in the foot of the sock.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I love your site and patterns. Have just purchased Koigu merino for the socks as directed but am unable to knit the correct gauge. I’ve tried 1,2,3 and always wind up I stitch to few. Any suggestions?
I am an experienced knitter and usually able to get correct gauge but these have me stumped.
Also I was told by someone at your site that the socks could be machine washed. Now reading the above comments it sounds like that is not feasible .
Thanks for your help
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m so sorry you are having difficulty getting the correct gauge! Having knit socks in Koigu KPM before, I know that I would need to use a US 1 or 2 to obtain this gauge, rather than a 3, but it is odd that your gauge is the same on all three needle sizes. Can you tell me how many stitches you are casting on for your swatch and how long you are knitting before you measure it? Also, are you blocking your swatch before measuring it?
Unfortunately, the fingering weight Koigu KPM we use for these socks is hand wash only. I imagine the person who told you that was thinking of Koigu Kersti, a DK weight yarn from the same company that we often use for baby blankets that is officially hand wash only, but we have machine washed with great results. I’m afraid that Koigu KPM does not fare as well in the washing machine, and I’m so sorry that you were given the wrong information! I do hope that you aren’t put off using it for socks, as it results in a wonderful cozy, stretchy, squishy fabric that is quite comfortable to wear, and since socks are so small, they’re not too much trouble to hand wash in the sink. For future socks, Posy is a beautiful hand-dyed yarn that can be machine washed!
Best,
Julianna
Hi Juliana and thanks for the speedy response.
At first I would cast on about 20 sts. But always got 7 sts per inch with a size 2 and 3.
I then cast on 32 sts and pinned to a tailors ham and still got 7 sts.
lthough my swatch was probably only2 and half inches. When I tried the 1’s I gave up as I could see right away it wouldn’t work and I always have to go down a needle size to get gauge on most everything I knit and I did not want to go down to a zero which I do not have anyway.
I will try again with the ones ,knit a bigger swatch and see what happens.
Thank you
I just finished my first sock and it’s way too big and I wear a size 10 ladies shoe. My mistake, I didn’t do a swatch test because I used the KPM yarn the pattern called for so didn’t think it was necessary, lesson learned. The good news is that it fits my brother’s foot and he thinks they will make a great pair of slippers so I will gift them to him.
Hi Joan!
Thank you for writing in, though we’re so sorry to hear your sock turned out too large! We always recommend making a gauge swatch, especially when knitting fitted pieces like socks, so that your finished project will fit as intended! If you are interested, we have a full tutorial called All About Gauge that is a great reference for gauge swatching.
I hope this helps for your next project, and we hope your brother likes his new sock, too!
All the best,
Margaret
Would you happen to know how to approach this pattern if I used circular needles instead?
I just feel more comfortable with circular needles when working in a round.
Hi Sara,
Thanks for reaching out! In order to knit these socks on circular needles, you’d need to use the magic loop technique. This makes it possible to knit things with tiny circumferences!
All the best,
Lili