Deep V-Neck Sweater
As anyone who has ever knit a sweater knows, it can be a real juggling act! With this Deep V-Neck Sweater, I had the happy and lucky experience of somehow, someway managing to keep all the balls in the air. A seamless set-in sleeve pattern, a spectacularly seductive yarn and a very forgiving fit, all conspired to work together in beautiful harmony!
While set-in sleeves are perhaps the most flattering sweater construction, they traditionally involve the dreaded last step of laboriously sewing together all those pesky pieces. Determined to avoid that tedium, I embarked on this project armed with a few vague notes from Elizabeth Zimmermann and a cannot-fail doggedness (sound familiar, knitters?). Turns out a seamless set-in sleeve sweater is not only possible, it’s fascinating and absolutely easy!
And what about that incredible yarn? Alchemy’s Kozmos is an extraordinary blend of silk, mohair, wool and cotton, all hand dyed together to create a fuzzy, shiny, nubbly complexity of color and texture. It is this sweater’s magic ingredient, infusing it with a truly unique flavor, expressive, elegant and very feminine.
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoDeepVNeckSweater. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 6 skeins of Alchemy Kozmos, 30% Silk, 26% Mohair, 13% Wool, 31% Cotton. Each skein is 119 yards/ 45 grams; approximately 476 yards required. This color is Platinum.
- A US 8 (5 mm), 24 inch circular needle
- A US 8, 12 inch circular needle
- 2 double pointed needles, US 8 or smaller
- 4 stitch holders
- 4 stitch markers
- OPTIONAL: For a snugger fit around the waist and arm bands, use US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needles for the ribbing (24 inch for the waist and 12 inch for the sleeves). I didn’t do this, but next time I would consider it. It just depends on your body and taste!
Shop our wonderful collection of aran + worsted-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
For Size Small: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
For Size Medium: 19 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch (This is the size pictured in the pattern.)
For Size Large: 18 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Finished Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
Small (Medium, Large)
- Waist Circumference: 36 (38, 40) inches
- From Shoulder to Shoulder Across the Back: 14 (14¾, 15½ inches
- From Bottom Edge to Underarm: 13 inches (with directions on how to vary)
Note
You will be asked to “purl 2 together through the back loop” (p2tog tbl). Here’s how:
1. Slip the first 2 stitches knitwise from the left needle to the right needle.
2. Slip them back onto the left needle, maintaining their orientation. These 2 stitches are now on the left needle in a twisted position.
Reach your right needle around to the knit side of the work and insert the tip through the back of the second stitch and then through the first.
Now bring the tip of the right needle to the front of the work and purl together those two stitches.
That’s it! Now…
Pattern
Begin at Bottom Edge
With the 24 inch circular needle, cast on 180 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 6 inches from cast on edge (or whatever your measurement is from the bottom of your hip bone to the middle of your waist).
Next Round: Knit 41, place a marker (pm), p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, knit to end of round.
Next Round: Knit to first marker, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, knit to end of round.
Repeat last round 4 more times.
Shaping the V
NOTE: For the rest of the sweater, you will be working back and forth in rows, turning the work at the end of each row.
Preparation Row (right side): Remove the end-of-the-round marker, knit to first marker, remove marker, p1, k1, p1, k1, turn the work so the purl side is facing you.
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times.
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, ssk, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k1] 2 times. (2 stitches decreased)
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: [K1, p1] 2 times, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times.
Repeat Rows 1-4 eight more times. 162 stitches
Repeat Rows 1 and 2. 160 stitches
Separate for Armholes
Row 1: [P1, k1] 2 times, p 37, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder, p 90, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times. 29 stitches for each front and 78 stitches for the back.
Set the body aside.
Right Sleeve
With the 12 inch circular needle and a new ball of yarn, cast on 64 stitches.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: *K2, p2, repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures 5 inches from cast on edge.
Knit for 1 1/2 inches.
Next Round: K 6, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder (removing the marker), cut the yarn, leaving a 24 inch tail. 52 stitches
Attach the Right Sleeve
Now return to the body with the right side facing, [K1, p1] 2 times, knit to first stitch holder, pm.
Situating the underarm stitch holders (one from the body and one from the sleeve) so that they are parallel and next to each other…
…knit across the right sleeve stitches, pm, knit across the back stitches to next stitch holder.
Set the body aside.
Make and Attach Left Sleeve
Make the left sleeve identical to the right sleeve.
Returning to the body, pm, situate the stitch holders parallel to each other and knit the left sleeve stitches, pm, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. 240 total stitches: 29 stitches for each front, 52 stitches for each sleeve, and 78 stitches for the back.
Begin Working Set-In Sleeves
NOTE: Instead of every 4 rows, from now on you will decrease for the V-neck every 6 rows. Don’t worry, the pattern will let you know!
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl (see Pattern Note above), purl to next marker, slip marker, p2tog**, repeat from * to **, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1,p1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: [K1, p1] 2 times, ssk, *knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog, knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k1] 2 times. (6 stitches decreased)
222 total stitches: 24 stitches for each front, 52 stitches for each sleeve, and 70 stitches for the back.
Decreasing the Sleeve Stitches
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times.
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Rows 3 and 4: Repeat Rows 1 and 2. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 5: Repeat Row 1.
Row 6: [K1, p1] 2 times, ssk, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k1] 2 times. (6 stitches decreased)
Repeat Rows 1-6 until 26 sleeve stitches remain for each sleeve, ending with Row 2. 162 total stitches: 20 stitches for each front, 26 stitches for each sleeve, 70 stitches for the back.
Accelerate the Sleeve Decreases
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, *purl to next marker, slip marker, p2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl**, repeat from * to **, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Row 3: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4: [K1, p1] 2 times, ssk, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 6 stitches, k2tog, [p1, k1] 2 times. (6 stitches decreased)
Rows 5 and 6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Repeat Rows 1-6 until 10 sleeve stitches remain, ending with Row 2. 128 total stitches: 19 for each front, 10 for each sleeve, and 70 for the back.
The Left Front
NOTE: For this section you will be working the left front stitches and half of the left sleeve stitches only. You will also no longer be decreasing for the V-Neck.
Row 1 (ws): [P1, k1] 2 times, purl to first marker, slip marker, p2tog. 1 stitch decreased. Turn the work so the right side is facing you and work back over these same stitches.
Row 2 (rs): Knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
The next row finishes the left front and starts the back…
Next Row: [P1, k1] 2 times, purl to first marker, slip marker, p2tog, purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl, slip marker, purl to next marker, slip marker, p2tog. Turn work so knit side is facing you. 122 total stitches: 19 stitches for each front, 5 for left sleeve, 9 for right sleeve and 70 for the back.
The Back
NOTE: Now you will be working back and forth on just the back stitches and some of the sleeve stitches.
Row 1 (rs): Knit to 2nd marker, slip marker, k2. Turn work.
Row 2 (ws): P2tog tbl, purl to 2nd marker, slip marker, p2tog. 2 stitches decreased. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times. 116 total stitches: 19 stitches for each front, 2 for left sleeve, 6 for right sleeve and 70 for the back.
Raising the Back with Short Rows
Now you’re going to work short rows over just the back stitches. Click here for a great Short Row Tutorial to help you through!
Row 1 (rs): Knit to 5 stitches before 2nd marker, wrap and turn.
Row 2 (ws): Purl to 5 stitches before next marker, wrap and turn.
Row 3: Knit to 5 stitches before next wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
Row 4: Purl to 5 stitches before next wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
Repeat Row 3.
Next Row (ws): Purl to the last 4 stitches of the entire row, picking up the wraps as you work, [k1, p1] 2 times. (Don’t worry that you picked up only half of the wrapped stitches. We’ll get to the other half later! It’s also okay that there is one fewer wrap on the right than on the left. No one will ever know!)
The Right Front
Now working just the stitches of the right front and some of the stitches of the right sleeve…
Row 1 (rs): [K1, p1] 2 times, knit to first marker, slip marker, ssk. 1 stitch decreased. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
Row 2 (ws): Purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times. Turn work.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
Next Row: [K1, p1] 2 times, knit to first marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to last 4 stitches of the entire row, picking up the wrapped stitches as you work. Place the last 4 stitches of the row on scrap yarn. 112 total stitches: 19 stitches for each front (including 4 on hold), 2 for each sleeve and 70 for the back.
Grafting the Shoulders
Slip the first 16 stitches onto a double pointed needle (removing the stitch marker).
Slip the next 16 stitches onto a second double pointed needle (removing the marker).
Cut the yarn, leaving a 24 inch tail, and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the left front to the back.
With the right side facing you and using a double pointed needle, join a new yarn to the right front.
Bind off 4 stitches in k1, p1 pattern.
Slip the next 15 stitches onto this same double pointed needle (removing the stitch marker). (You should have 16 stitches on the needle.)
Slip the next 16 stitches onto a second double pointed needle (removing the marker).
Cut the yarn, leaving a 24 inch tail, and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the right front to the back. 40 stitches remain for the back.
Finishing the Neckband
Slip the 4 edge stitches from the scrap yarn onto a double pointed needle.
With the right side facing you and joining new yarn, use the circular needle (that is holding the back stitches) to pick up 1 stitch from between the ribbing and the back stitches.
Still using the circular needle, slip 1 stitch from the neck ribbing and pass the picked up stitch over, k1, p1, k1. Turn the work so the wrong side is facing you.
Now using just the circular needle…
Row 1 (ws): P1, k1, p1, k2tog (the last stitch of the ribbing with the first stitch of the back). Turn work.
Row 2 (rs): Slip the first back stitch from the right needle onto the left needle, p2tog (the slipped stitch and the first stitch of the ribbing), k1, p1, k1. Turn work.
Repeat the last 2 rows until all of the back stitches have been knit, ending with Row 2.
Next Row (ws): P1, k1, p1, slip 1, keep the yarn in front and pick up a stitch from between the back and the right front ribbing (insert the right needle from the right side of the work to the wrong side and purl the stitch to pick it up), pass the slipped stitch over.
Next Row (rs): Bind off in p1, k1 pattern.
Cut the yarn, leaving a 12 inch tail.
Sew the two bound off edges of the ribbing together.
Finishing
Use the Kitchener Stitch to graft the underarms together.
Weave in all the ends and gently block. You’re all done!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
This is a lovely, interesting pattern, but is there any way we can see it on a human? I'm trying to decide if I could even wear this, and what it would look like, over a camisole or something.
Hi Sara-
We don't have a picture of it on a human but we have tried it on and it looks great over a camisole.
Thanks for your question.
Molly
Thanks for the pattern.. it's a gorgeous sweater and so versatile. However for someone deeply deeply allergic to mohair, would you recommend an alternative yarn (preferable for warm weather)?
Hi Iroknits,
We have so many beautiful choices! Here's a link to our “worsted weight” yarns: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters%5B%5D=6 .
If you let me know what gauge/size you're thinking of knitting, I'd be happy to steer you toward some of my favorites!
Thanks for asking!
Whitney
What a fabulous, albeit slightly intimidating, project! Question though: When attaching the sleeves, do you knit the stitches together from both the sleeve's stitch holder and the body's stitch holder? Or knit only those 12 stitches from the sleeve's stitch holder and then just drop the stitches from the body stitch holder? I have never done set in sleeves so this is all very new to me.
Hi, Whitney! I LOVE all your patterns.
I bought all the yarn to start my sweater! I just have some questions about the size. I usually wear an XS, but I'm a curvy XS. Did you measure the body circumference at the bust, waist, or hip? When the sweater is laying flat, does it have a natural curve to the waist or fairly straight? I'm debating on sticking to your S pattern or moving down a couple needle sizes for a smaller fit. I love this sweater, I just want to be sure that it's fitted, but not too tight in the bust.
Thank you for your input!
HI Stefanie,
The “Body Circumference” is measured at the waist, right below where the V-neck starts (actually, I just changed the pattern to say “Waist Circumference” instead!). This number should be about 2-3 inches bigger than your actual waist measurement.
I didn't size this sweater around the chest because the wide V-neck makes that measurement a bit misleading. But for your information, the fabric at the chest (measured right under the arms) is 32 inches for the small size. Just remember that there is a generous opening right there and that the chest sizing is very flexible!
And to answer your question about the “natural curve to the waist”, the only shaping throughout the sweater is creating by the natural pulling in of the ribbing. To create a more dramatic curve, I would suggest knitting the ribbing on a smaller needle.
Having said all that, I would say that generally speaking this sweater fits quite true to size and that if your only concern is the chest being too tight, I would probably go ahead with the XS size.
Good luck and please let us know if you have any more question!
Thanks!
Whitney
Since the only reference I see to sizing is in the guage do you adjust sizing by changing needle size?
Hi Robin-
Yes you adjust the needle size to change the gauge.
Thanks for your question!
Molly
Separate for Armholes
Row 1: [P1, k1] 2 times, p 37, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder, p 90, put last 12 stitches on a stitch holder, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1, p1] 2 times. 29 stitches for each front and 78 stitches for the back.
I am confused here. Are you suppose to p 37 and then put the last 12 stitches of the 37 you just purled on a stitch holder?If so… How do you continue purling the next 90. This is my first sweater.
Hi, Can anyone answer Lily's question above? I have the same one. When attaching the sleeves are we to knit only the stitches on the sleeve stitch holder and leave the stitches on the body stitch holder? If so, what do we do with the stitches we left on the body stitch holder? Thanks!
I think i've figured it out. We are to attach the sleeve using the stitches on the needle, not the stitches on the stitch holder. It appears the stitches on both stitch holders are to be grafted at the end. Right? Thanks!
Hi Meghan,
Yes, you do purl 37 and then put the last 12 of the 37 on hold. You continue purling just by putting your right needle into the next stitch on the left needle and purling! The yarn will be coming from the last stitch on the stitch holder.
I hope this clarifies things for you. Please let us know if you need more help!
Thanks,
Whitney
Hi Lily and Stewart,
I'm sorry for not answering your question earlier, Lily. I thought I had! And thank you, Stewart, for reminding me! It sounds like you've figured it out, but for Lily and whoever else might need more clarification:
When you attach the sleeves you only knit the sleeve stitches that are on the knitting needle. You don't touch the underarm stitches that are on the holders until the very end when you graft them together.
Thank you both for asking and good luck!
Whitney
Seeing this sweater only makes me wish I knew how to knit even more! I'm a crochet-holic and cant even hold knitting needles the proper way!
Beautiful pattern!
I'm a little confused by your description of p2tog tbl. It sounds like ssp. Is there a difference?
Cute pattern! I haven't tried EZ's set-in sleeve yet, but I plan to soon.
Hi Laura,
Yes, p2tog tbl is the same as a slip slip purl. Good point! I'll add the piece of information to our tutorial right now!
Thanks!
Whitney
I just happened upon your beautiful and informative website. I, too, noticed the P2tog tbl issue. You are describing an SSP. P2tog tbl is different, there is no slipping knitwise, just simply purling through the back loops together as one. The P2tog tbl, when done on the WS, leans left on the RS. The SSP, when done on the WS. appears to stand up straighter on the RS. This small difference made a big difference on the short row portion of my top down set in sleeves using the YO short row method. I did the P2tog tbl and it looked terrible so I re-read the short row directions and realized I should have done the SSP. I re-did the sleeves and it came out much better!
Hi Karen Lynn/ Jane Jetson,
I think if you check out our Purl 2 Together Through the Back Loop Tutorial (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/decrease-purl-2-together-tbl-p/2012/3/16/decrease-purl-2-together-through-back-loop-p2tog-tbl.html), you'll see the same method you used to make your SSP…?
Since there's never any circumstance I would just purl 2 together through the back loop without slipping the stitches first, I just think of the p2tog tbl and ssk as the same thing. And in researching the question, I have found that the terms p2tog tbl and ssp are often used interchangeably because both are left leaning on the right side (ie the knit side).
I'd love to hear back from you to know if we're on the same page. If so, then I think to avoid confusion we should rename our tutorial to include the term SSP. What do you think?
Thank you so much for this potentially important (and interesting!) observation!
Whitney
I love this sweater and I can't wait to start knitting!
Although I have a question reguarding the sizing… For a size small, do I cast on less stitches, if so, how many?
Hi Heather-
The smaller size is knit exactly the same, just in a smaller gauge. As long as you make sure that you are getting the correct gauge you should be fine.
Thank you!
Molly
For “The Back”
I'm pretty sure I'm just not seeing it, but where it says
“Knit to 2nd marker, slip marker, k2. Turn work.”
Does it mean when you knit through the first marker on the right sleeve, knit the back and then the next marker on the back and left sleeve?
OR
knit through the back to the 2 markers on the left sleeve?
Hi Heather,
I think if I had to choose one of your interpretations, it would be the first, but I'm not entirely sure, so here's a further explanation:
The “second marker” is the one that marks the back left shoulder.
You should have ended the previous row by slipping the back right shoulder marker, purling 2 together and turning. The Back section starts there, at the back right shoulder marker, and to continue, you knit past it to the back left shoulder marker, slip it, k2 and turn the work. Does this clear things up for you?
Please let me know if you need nay more help and thank you for your question!
Whitney
I just finished a sweater from Stitch Nation where I had to create pages of diagrams to get the decreasing in the pattern correct and to fix some pattern errors. This V-neck is an intimidating project, with all its stitch holder stuff, but I'm dying to try it. Some of the comment/questions should be valuable. It's a great sweater. Wish me luck!
Hi. Can you pls tell me if you have bust size for S?
Thank you!
Hi YS,
I didn't include a bust size because the wide V-opening makes the fitting so flexible in the chest.
But I can tell you that at the underarm, you have 160 stitches, which at 5 stitches to the inch, is 32 inches. And keep in mind that there is also a 4-inch wide opening at that point.
I hope this answers your question. Please let us know if you have any others and good luck!
Whitney
If you're having trouble finding a 12" cable (like I did), you can knit the sleeves on a set of five double-pointed needles. It's a bit more tedious, but the end result is the same.
Hi Marjorie-
Just for the future, we carry the 12-inch length of circular needles here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8-Skacel-Addi-Turbo-Circular-Needles
Thanks!
Molly
The seamless set-in sleeves are amazingly innovative, you managed to "unvent" an awesome sweater. Any chance you have these set in sleeves worked out in proportions so the technique could be used in other sweaters?
Hi SRG,
I don't have them worked out, but Elizabeth Zimmermann does! To design this sweater I referred her very brief, but informative, section on Set-In Sleeves in her book, Knitting Workshop, page 86. I can't promise that this one page of info will have all your answers, but if you're good at extrapolating, it will set you on the road!
Here's a link to that book: http://purlbee.squarespace.com/the-purl-bee/2012/1/22/whits-knits-deep-v-neck-sweater.html If you don't already have it, it's a fabulous resource!
Thanks so much for your question!
Whitney
Help, please
I have read through the instructions, but do better by just "doing". I finished the ribbed bottom and am attempting to begin the body.
After completing 6" of ribbing, it says to Knit 41, place marker, P1 K1 P1 K2 P1 K1 P1, continue knitting which basically creates a different section 41 stiches away from the true beginning of the round.
For the body, you work the sweater through the above segregated section, turn the work and go back creating this section as its own row (no knitting to either side.) Doesn't this make a "bump" in the sweater?
This also seems to create the V 41 stitches away from the natural beginning of the row. Why?
And, by instructing the removal of the markers, it is difficult to determine the exact stitch to stop and start at.
I'm so confused.
HI Judith,
It's true that there are 45 stitches (41 + p1, k1, p1, k1) that are worked one more row than the other 135 stitches, but this is not discernible once you have finished the sweater. Lots of knitting patterns (most sweaters and socks) have a hiccup like this in the pattern.
And you remove the end of the round marker because it no longer marks the end of anything. You don't have to worry about that spot any more! You're now working in rows, and the ends of the rows (at the end of the ribbing) are obvious because that is where you turn the work to start the next row.
I hope this helps clarify things for you. If not, please let us know! Thanks for your questions!
Whitney
Tried to print this beautiful pattern to try and cannot. Can it be printed? Where can I get it if not. Positively gorgeous. Luv it.
Hi Wickerbuggy-
We recommend that you copy the text and images you need and paste them into a Word or Text doc. I know it's not ideal but we are working on it!
Thank you for writing in and good luck with the project.
Molly
Hi
What a beautiful design! Do you think it's possible to create the sweater body first then knit the sleeves directly onto the sweater armholes, as opposed to knitting the sleeves as separate pieces?
Thanks for posting it!
Gina
Hi Gina,
It may be possible, but I don't think I've ever seen a set-in sleeve pattern like that. I hope one of our readers will enlighten us if there is such a thing out there!
A nice thing about this pattern, by the way, is that although you do have to knit the sleeves separately, you don't have to sew them in at the end. Instead, you knit them right into the body of the sweater as you work the chest.
Thanks for your question and please let us know if you have any more!
Whitney
hi gina, this tutorial from bygumbygolly might be what you're looking for: http://bygumbygolly.com/2013/10/how-to-knit-seamless-set-in-sleeves-from-the-top-down/
Hi Gina and Trotula,
Oh, I see what you were asking, Gina! Thank you, Trotula for illuminating the question. Somehow I was imagining a sweater where you knit the yoke and sleeves simultaneously (brain freeze), but yes, of course, as Tortula's link shows, you can pick up armhole stitches and knit the sleeves down from there (using short rows to shape the shoulders). Great resource, Trotula!
Sorry for the misunderstanding,
Whitney
OK, I'm in trouble. I just knit the sleeves on, but at the count (just above where the pattern reads, "Begin Working Set-In Sleeves," I have the counts as listed, but also have the 12 for each underarm of the sleeve, giving me a total of 264 stitches, not the 240 mentioned! What did I do wrong? As far as I can see, I have followed the instructions perfectly to this point. Help!
Hi Bev,
It sounds like you're right on! The total number of stitches refers to live stitches and doesn't include the 24 underarm stitches that are on hold.
Sorry for the confusion. Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck with the rest of your sweater!
Whitney
I am confused by the last row of the sleeve, before it’s attached. Knit 6 place last 12 stitches on holder. Do you only knit 6 stitches in this row?
Hello Jenn,
You are correct! They ask you to knit those 6 stitches just to prepare for when you join it to the body. You will place the 6 stitches you just knit in addition to the 6 previous stitches on the stitch holder and put it aside. Happy knitting!
Alyson
I am using your pattern to set in the sleeves on another bottom up sweater. I am confused in two places. HERE: Begin Working Set-In Sleeves
Row 1 (wrong side): [P1, k1] 2 times, *purl to 2 stitches before next marker, p2tog tbl (see Pattern Note above), purl to next marker, slip marker, p2tog**, repeat from * to **, purl to last 4 stitches, [k1,p1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
Am I only decreasing on the seams of the body – two on back and two stitches on the front? Then when six stitches are decreased in the same section – it is for the neckline?
Then HERE:Decreasing the Sleeve Stitches
Row 2 (right side): [K1, p1] 2 times, *knit to next marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before next marker, k2tog**, repeat from * to **, knit to last 4 stitches, [p1, k1] 2 times. (4 stitches decreased)
I am decreasing only on the sleeve?
I am used to doing raglans and expected to be decreasing on both sides of arm seam, so this has confused me. I think typing this out, I may have answered my own question, but I will post it to help anyone else who is over-thinking it also.
Also, regarding grafting the underarms-is there any reason that you can’t do a three needle bindoff on those stitches, so you don’t have to seam or graft them later?
Hi Lisa,
Thank you for the comment! For the Working Set-In Sleeves section you are absolutely correct, the decreases are only for the body in the rows that decrease 4 stitches while the rows that decrease 6 stitches are accommodating the neckline. It’s the same for the Decreasing the Sleeve Stitches section. Technically it would be perfectly fine to do a three needle bind off for the underarm, I find that grafting them together is a little less bulky of a seam but whichever you prefer doing will work fine!
I hope this helped and feel free to write us back if you’d like to check anything else in the pattern!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Hey! If I wanted to increase the size to a 44″ chest, would using aran rather than worsted (slightly thicker) and upping to around 4 stitches per inch work, do you think?
Hi Caitlin-
This might work but unfortunately we aren’t really sure since we haven’t tried it. Sorry we can’t be of more help. Please let us know if you have any more questions.
Best-
Molly
Do you have any suggestions for turning this into a dress? I was thinking about making the ribbing longer but wasn’t sure if I would need to add more stitches.
Hello Laura!
Making the ribbing longer would be ideal! Would you like the dress just to be straight or have more of an A-line shape to the skirt? If so, you’ll need to increase some stitches gradually along the sides. Best of luck!
Please let us know how it goes! -Alyson
Hi, I have never knit a sweater before and i am really confused on how to attach the right sleeve to the sweater. I don’t know where to put the needle to begin with. Would you be able to clarify the instructions please on this part for me. I am so confused and frustrated but I don’t want to give up because this is a really beautiful sweater and I would love to wear it. Thank you
Hi CatMorbid,
Thanks for writing in. This is a tricky part of the pattern and can be a bit confusing. If you are having trouble visualizing the process, I would knit up to the grafting stitches, match up your stitches on the scrap yarns/stitch holders (the underarm area to be grafted later on) and slip the right sleeve stitches on to the left-hand needle of your stitches for the body. Now that your sleeve stitches are on your left hand needle, knit across the sleeve stitches and continue on to the back. Do the same for the left sleeve, being sure to match up the grafting stitches. If this is still confusing, I would slip all your stitches on to an extra needle in the order you will knit — first the right front, then the right sleeve, then the back, then the left sleeve and finally the left front. I hope this helps!
Best,
Adam
Hi, wonderful pattern, but here in the UK I can’t get short circular needles, can I just use straight for the arms and then seam them?
Hi Jane,
Thanks for the kind words! I suggest you try to work on double pointed needles before adapting the pattern. Let me know how this goes!
Best,
Adam
I am working on this in the line weight yarn and smaller needle size. I was able to get the correct gauge, but now that I’m reviewing how many rows are knit for the shaping of the V I’m now sure how to make it longer before starting on shaping the arm holes. (I do not plan on creating sleeves.) I should have read the whole pattern before deciding to use a different yarn weight. Thanks for any help you can provide!
Hello Katrina,
Thank you for writing us! Is it that your stitch gauge is correct but your row gauge is off? If so, since Line Weight is a thinner yarn, you’ll have to knit many more rows from the start of the v-neck until you reach the shoulder. Unfortunately, without a row gauge, I cannot give you a good estimate on how many rows you’ll need to knit and how often you’ll decrease for the v-neck. Also, if you could provide the size you are doing too I can better assist you. Thanks and let me know!
-Adam
I’ve scrapped trying to make it after rethinking what I was doing. I’ve decided (after reading some of the comments) to make this as a dress. Once I get closer to starting the project I’ll ask for some budget friendly yarn ideas. Is it better to leave a comment for others to view or to send an e-mail?
Hi Katrina,
I’m sorry the pattern didn’t work out this time, but when you are ready you can leave a comment here or email the store at [email protected]. We’d be glad to help you in any way! Talk to you soon!
-Adam
Is there anyway to make this where the v-neck is in the back? For ,e the v seems too deep for the front but could be cute in the back.
Hi Katrina,
Thank you for writing in! I think this is a great idea! For making the back the front you would go about the pattern as normal until you hit the short row section. You want the short rows in the back for your shoulders, so you’ll have to work back and fourth from the shoulder to the center back divide to raise up the center back. Do this on both sides and you should be golden. If the v-neck gap in the back is too large, I’d consider adding an i-cord tie to secure it. This would be pretty and functional!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
-Adam
So I thought I understood your instructions, but now that I’m to the point where I’m supposed to raise the back through short rows I’m confused. If the short rows are supposed to go in the back, and my back is the v neck, and the short rows cover more stitches than what’s on the shoulders…ehhh…help…
Hi Katrina,
Sorry for the late reply! You can short row the right and left shoulders separately, raising the fabric closest to the neckline. To do this you’ll knit to the neckline and turn. From this point on you’ll be working one side in short rows by knitting to the center of the sleeve, wrapping and turning and then knitting back to the neckline. Repeat this, wrapping and turning a few stitches before the previous wrap each time until you have sufficient hight or are at the neckline. Once you are finished with one side, repeat for the other.
If you’d like to scoop the neck out of the front (original back), then I’d repeat this short row process for the front shoulder too, but instead decrease the amount of short rows you do in half so as to let the back rise higher than the front. This way you’ll get a nice fit around the shoulders that is less likely to slip off.
I hope this makes sense and that you’ll understand my directions! Let me know if you have any more questions!
-Adam
I am almost done with the sleeve decrease and just realized I have 2 extra stitches for each sleeve. Would it look weird to p2tog tbl and p2tog on each sleeve so I don’t have to start from the beginning?
Hi Katrina,
Thanks for writing in! Assuming that the sleeves fit your properly as you have knitted them, you should be able to decrease these extra stitches as you have noted. I would be sure to decrease on the underside of the arm on either side of the mid point of the bottom of the arm. This will be the best way to hide the decreases. If the sleeves are a little too large, I would suggest ripping out and starting over.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
This is beautiful and I’d love to make it, but I feel like it’d look really good worn backwards, with the V giving you a really nice open back look. Can you make it as is and just wear it backwards? Or would you need to put the sleeves on backwards too (i.e. knit them backwards)?
Hello CJ,
This is a great question! You can certainly just knit this up and wear it reversed. There is some short row shaping to raise the back. I would just omit these short rows.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I followed Adam’s advice, two above you…long string, and the dress I made for my friend with the v in the back looked great. The scoop neck was a nice touch since she doesn’t like clothing near her neck.
Kat
I am creating this in serpentine, but having a hard time getting the correct gauge. A very Goldilocks situation with baby bears bed. I have tried 8,7, and 6 (which was really tight). It looks great though so I don’t want to give up on it. Can you please help me?
Kat
Hello Kat,
Thanks for reaching out! How many stitches per inch are you getting with each needle?
I hope I can help!
-Marilla
Hi! I am looking to purchase yarn for this project but it does not seem to be available on the site now. Will it come back in stock? If not, could you please recommend an alternative ?
Thank you 🙂
Mel
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for writing in! Unfortunately, we no longer carry Kozmos, but Lantern is the correct weight for this pattern and should give you a very similar effect! Another option is Understory, which doesn’t have the same nubbly thick-and-thin appearance, but has a similar fiber content to the original yarn and would result in a wonderfully soft sweater.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you! 🙂
I’m trying to figure out how many to cast on and what to do about the knit 41 part of the pattern – I get 5 sts per inch on a #7 needle. My waist is 31” (tight) or 32” (loose) one calculator says I should cast on 156 or 160. Can you help me calculate the 41 sts and how many sts to count off for sleeves?
Hi Cassie,
Thanks for reaching out! I recommend following the instructions for the size small since that is what your gauge and measurements match up to be! The pattern has you start at the bottom edge, and with the 24 inch circular needle, cast on 180 stitches.
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Thank you, Gianna. I’m excited to use this beautiful pink yarn from Juniper Moon Farm, Moonshine.
Are you sure the small will work? The pattern says it’s for 36″ waist. I don’t want to start and have it be too big.
Hi Cassie,
Thanks for reaching out again! I am happy to help! For a snugger fit around the waist and arm bands we do suggest using a US #7 needle instead on an 8! This would insure that the finished sweater wouldn’t be too big!
I hope this helps!
warmly,
Gianna
I love the sweater, but the “v” is too deep for me. How do I close it up?
Hi Sandrien,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t have written instructions for closing up the v, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
I would love to knit this
What yarn(s) would you recommend? Also, can this be worn without anything (like a tank) underneath? Maybe using fashion tape?
I saw some completed projects on ravelry and it looks like the people who have knit this didn’t make it as fitted as it is shown here and also wear it with something under
Thanks
Hi Stephanie,
Thank you for your questions! Because of the construction of this project, I’ve seen many knitters wear a shirt under their finished sweaters, but if you have fashion tape I can’t see why it can’t be worn without an undershirt!
This pattern is knit in a worsted weight yarn, so I’d recommend checking out Sunshower Cotton, Tulip Cotton, and Linen Quill Worsted for some yarn ideas. Zageo 6-Ply Cashmere would also be a lovely yarn for this project!
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Carly
I just started this today but I’m concerned because it says there are 3 sizes available but I do not see anything in the instructions for the 3 sizes
Ex: cast on 180 stitches
Sooooo is that for all sizes?
Hi Stephanie,
That’s a great question! In this pattern, the only thing that differs between sizes is the gauge. The gauges are different for each size, so that when you follow the exact same instructions and stitch count, the smaller sizes end up smaller and the larger sizes end up larger!
All the best,
Lili
Lovely pattern, thank you for providing it on your site!
I have a question about the first/last stitch of the V edges. Is it recommended to slip the first or last stitch for a smooth edge, or should they be worked for a stronger edge? Thanks!
Hi Lisa,
Glad to hear that this pattern has caught your eye! You can absolutely slip the first stitch of each row for a smoother neckline edge.
All the best,
Lili