Garland Shawl
Welcome Marjut Lund-Rahkola’s truly gorgeous Garland Shawl, with its trailing clusters of bobbles that call to mind leafy boughs, grape-laden vines, and branches in bloom.
You’ll work this triangular shawl from the long edge to the point, with each row one stitch shorter than the last. In beautiful Linen Quill yarn, a slightly rustic blend of highland wool, alpaca, and linen, the garter-stitch fabric is springy and soft, with incredible depth of color. Knitting this fingering-weight yarn on size 8 needles results in an incredibly light and airy fabric that grows quickly on your needles.
Sweet sprigs of lace with plump, little bobbles stand out against a plush garter stitch backdrop.
Select two or three skeins in your favorite color from Linen Quill’s vast, nature-inspired palette, and choose between a small kerchief or a rambling shawl that will envelop your shoulders! Our version is the shawl size and is as fresh as a handful of spring peas in Bright Mint.
The Garland Shawl is a beautiful wrap that you’ll be thrilled to wear in any season. Cast on and make something extraordinary!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Marjut Lund-Rahkola lives with her family in Tampere, Finland. She is an architect who knits while the rest of her family sleeps and finds inspiration in lovely yarns, beautiful construction, Japanese aesthetics, and the natural world.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoGarlandShawl, and #PurlSohoLinenQuill. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 2 (3) skeins of Purl Soho’s Linen Quill, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein of this fingering weight yarn is 439 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 455 (1085) total yards required. We used the color Bright Mint.
- US 8 (5 mm), 16- and 32- or 40-inch circular needles (NOTE: You can use just the 32- or 40-inch needles, but they may be a bit unruly near the end of the project when you’re working on fewer and fewer stitches!)
- Stitch markers
GAUGE
17 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in garter stitch
SIZES
Kerchief (Shawl)
- Finished Length of Wingspan: 45 (69½) inches wide
- Finished Height from Cast-On Point to Middle of Bind-Off Edge: 21 (32½) inches
Sample: We knit the Shawl size.
NOTES
STITCH MULTIPLE
This pattern works over a multiple of 26 + 61 stitches. For example, the Kerchief requires (26 x 5) + 61 stitches, or 191 total stitches.
SLIP STITCHES
Slip stitches purlwise with yarn in front.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
S2KP
Slip two stitches together knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass both the slipped stitches over the knit stitch and off the right needle. [2 stitches decreased]
For additional help, please visit our s2kp Tutorial.
MAKE BOBBLE RIGHT + LEFT
NOTE: Be sure to work your bobbles relatively loosely, so that when you have to work all the stitches together, you can easily insert your needle into all 7 stitches.
MBR: ([K1, yarn over] 3 times, k1) into next stitch. [6 stitches increased] Note that on the following wrong-side row, you will purl these 7 stitches together, but before then, these mBR stitches will be counted as 1 stitch.
MBL: ([K1, yarn over] 3 times, k1) into next stitch, slip 7 stitches back to left needle, knit 7 together through the back loops.
PATTERN
BEGIN
Cast on 191 (295) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row 1 (right side): K1, place marker (pm), [k7, pm, k19, pm] 7 (11) times, k8.
Set-Up Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 (see Special Instructions), *k7, slip marker (sm), k19, sm, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, k6, and removing marker, knit 2 together (k2tog). [190 (294) stitches]
Work Garland Pattern either from Written Instructions or Chart, both below.
GARLAND PATTERN: WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
REPEATING GARLAND PATTERN
NOTE: For every row of this pattern, you will decrease the total stitch count by 1.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1, k6, sm, *k4, slip slip knit (ssk), k3, yarn over (yo), k10, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 27 stitches, k4, ssk, k3, yo, k10, sm, k6, k2tog.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, k6, sm, *k9, p1, k9, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 26 stitches, k9, p1, k9, sm, k5, k2tog.
Row 3: Slip 1, k5, sm, *k3, s2kp (see Special Instruction), k1, mBR (see Special Instructions), yo, k1, yo, k10, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 26 stitches, k3, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, k10, sm, k5, k2tog.
Row 4: Slip 1, k5, sm, *k9, p4, p7tog, k5, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 25 stitches, k9, p4, purl 7 together (p7tog), k5, sm, k4, k2tog.
Row 5: Slip 1, k4, sm, *k2, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL (see Special Instructions), k10, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 25 stitches, k2, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k10, sm, k4, k2tog.
Row 6: Slip 1, k4, sm, *k9, p5, p7tog, k4, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 24 stitches, k9, p5, p7tog, k4, sm, k3, k2tog.
Row 7: Slip 1, k3, sm, *k1, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k11, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 24 stitches, k1, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k11, sm, k3, k2tog.
Row 8: Slip 1, k3, sm, *k9, p1, k1, p4, p7tog, k3, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 23 stitches, k9, p1, k1, p4, p7tog, k3, sm, k2, k2tog.
Row 9: Slip 1, k2, sm, *s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k12, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 23 stitches, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k12, sm, k2, k2tog.
Row 10: Slip 1, k2, sm, *k9, p1, k2, p4, p7tog, k2, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 22 stitches, k9, p1, k2, p4, p7tog, k2, sm, k1, k2tog.
Row 11: Slip 1, k1, sm, *ssk, k1, mBR, yo, k15, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 22 stitches, ssk, k1, mBR, yo, k15, sm, k1, k2tog.
Row 12: Slip 1, k1, sm, *k9, p1, k4, p2, p7tog, k2, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 21 stitches, k9, p1, k4, p2, p7tog, k2, sm, k2tog.
Row 13: Slip 1, remove marker, *k3, mBR, k6, yo, k3, k2tog, k4, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 21 stitches, k3, mBR, k6, yo, k3, k2tog, k4, remove marker, k2tog.
Row 14: Slip 1, *k9, p1, k5, p7tog, k3, sm, k7, sm, repeat from * to last 20 stitches, k9, p1, k5, p7tog, k2, k2tog.
Row 15: Slip 1, k9, yo, k1, yo, k2, s2kp, k3, sm, *k7, sm, k10, yo, k1, yo, k2, s2kp, k3, sm, repeat from * to last 27 stitches, k7, sm, k10, yo, k1, yo, k2, s2kp, k2, k2tog.
Row 16: Slip 1, k4, p5, k9, sm, *k7, sm, k5, p5, k9, sm, repeat from * to last 26 stitches, k7, sm, k5, p5, k7, k2tog.
Row 17: Slip 1, k8, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, s2kp, k2, sm, *k7, sm, k10, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, s2kp, k2, sm, repeat from * to last 26 stitches, k7, sm, k10, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, s2kp, k2tog.
Row 18: Slip 1, k2, p4, p7tog, p1, k9, sm, *k7, sm, k4, p4, p7tog, p1, k9, sm, repeat from * to last 25 stitches, k7, sm, k4, p4, p7tog, p1, k6, k2tog.
Row 19: Slip 1, k8, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, s2kp, k1, sm, *k7, sm, k11, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, s2kp, k1, sm, repeat from * to last 25 stitches, k7, sm, k11, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, s2kp, slip resulting stitch back to left needle, k2tog.
Row 20: Slip 1, p4, p7tog, k1, p1, k9, sm, *k7, sm, k3, p4, p7tog, k1, p1, k9, sm, repeat from * to last 24 stitches, k7, sm, k3, p4, p7tog, k1, p1, k5, k2tog.
Row 21: Slip 1, k8, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, s2kp, sm, *k7, sm, k12, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, s2kp, sm, repeat from * to last 24 stitches, k7, sm, k12, mBR, yo, ssk, k2tog.
Row 22: Slip 1, p2, p7tog, k2, p1, k9, sm, *k7, sm, k2, p4, p7tog, k2, p1, k9, sm, repeat from * to last 23 stitches, k7, sm, k2, p4, p7tog, k2, p1, k4, k2tog.
Row 23: Slip 1, k10, yo, mBL, k1, k2tog, sm, *k7, sm, k15, yo, mBL, k1, k2tog, sm, repeat from * to last 23 stitches, k7, sm, k14, k2tog.
Row 24: Slip 1, k4, p1, k9, sm, *k7, sm, k2, p3, k4, p1, k9, sm, repeat from * to last 22 stitches, k7, sm, k2, p3, k4, p1, k3, k2tog.
Row 25: Slip 1, ssk, k1, yo, k6, mBL, k3, sm, *k7, sm, k4, ssk, k3, yo, k6, mBL, k3, sm, repeat from * to last 22 stitches, k7, sm, k4, ssk, k3, yo, k4, k2tog.
Row 26: Slip 1, k3, p2, k8, sm, *k7, sm, k3, p1, k5, p2, k8, sm, repeat from * to last 21 stitches, k7, sm, k3, p1, k5, p2, k1, k2tog.
Row 27: Slip 1, k12, sm, *k7, sm, k4, ssk, k3, yo, k10, sm, repeat from * to last 21 stitches, k7, sm, k4, ssk, k3, yo, k3, k2tog.
Row 28: Slip 1, k2, p1, k9, sm, *k7, sm, k9, p1, k9, sm, repeat from * to last 20 stitches, k7, sm, k9, p1, k1, k2tog.
Row 29: Slip 1, k11, sm, *k7, sm, k3, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, k10, sm, repeat from * to last 20 stitches, k7, sm, k3, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, k2, k2tog.
Row 30: Slip 1, k1, p4, p7tog, k5, sm, *k7, sm, k9, p4, p7tog, k5, sm, repeat from * to last 19 stitches, k7, sm, k9, p1, k2tog.
Row 31: Slip 1, k10, sm, *k7, sm, k2, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k10, sm, repeat from * to last 19 stitches, k7, sm, k2, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, k2tog.
Row 32: Slip 1, p5, p7tog, k4, sm, *k7, sm, k9, p5, p7tog, k4, sm, repeat from * to last 18 stitches, k7, sm, k9, k2tog.
Row 33: Slip 1, k9, sm, *k7, sm, k1, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k11, sm, repeat from * to last 18 stitches, k7, sm, k1, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, k2tog.
Row 34: Slip 1, k1, p4, p7tog, k3, sm, *k7, sm, k9, p1, k1, p4, p7tog, k3, sm, repeat from * to last 17 stitches, k7, sm, k8, k2tog.
Row 35: Slip 1, k8, sm, *k7, sm, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k12, sm, repeat from * to last 17 stitches, k7, sm, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, k2tog.
Row 36: Slip 1, k1, p4, p7tog, k2, sm, *k7, sm, k9, p1, k2, p4, p7tog, k2, sm, repeat from * to last 16 stitches, k7, sm, k7, k2tog.
Row 37: Slip 1, k7, sm, *k7, sm, ssk, k1, mBR, yo, k15, sm, repeat from * to last 16 stitches, k7, sm, ssk, k1, mBR, yo, k3, k2tog.
Row 38: Slip 1, k2, p2, p7tog, k2, sm, *k7, sm, k9, p1, k4, p2, p7tog, k2, sm, repeat from * to last 15 stitches, k7, sm, k6, k2tog.
Row 39: Slip 1, k6, sm, *k7, sm, k3, mBR, k6, yo, k3, k2tog, k4, sm, repeat from * to last 15 stitches, k7, sm, k3, mBR, k2, k2tog.
Row 40: Slip 1, k2, p7tog, k3, sm, *k7, sm, k9, p1, k5, p7tog, k3, sm, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, k7, sm, k5, k2tog.
Row 41: Slip 1, k5, sm, *k7, sm, k10, yo, k1, yo, k2, s2kp, k3, sm, repeat from * to last 14 stitches, k7, sm, k5, k2tog.
Row 42: Slip 1, k5, sm, *k7, sm, k5, p5, k9, sm, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k7, sm, k4, k2tog.
Row 43: Slip 1, k4, sm, *k7, sm, k10, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, s2kp, k2, sm, repeat from * to last 13 stitches, k7, sm, k4, k2tog.
Row 44: Slip 1, k4, sm, *k7, sm, k4, p4, p7tog, p1, k9, sm, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, k7, sm, k3, k2tog.
Row 45: Slip 1, k3, sm, *k7, sm, k11, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, s2kp, k1, sm, repeat from * to last 12 stitches, k7, sm, k3, k2tog.
Row 46: Slip 1, k3, sm, *k7, sm, k3, p4, p7tog, k1, p1, k9, sm, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, k7, sm, k2, k2tog.
Row 47: Slip 1, k2, sm, *k7, sm, k12, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, s2kp, sm, repeat from * to last 11 stitches, k7, sm, k2, k2tog.
Row 48: Slip 1, k2, sm, *k7, sm, k2, p4, p7tog, k2, p1, k9, sm, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, k7, sm, k1, k2tog.
Row 49: Slip 1, k1, sm, *k7, sm, k15, yo, mBL, k1, k2tog, sm, repeat from * to last 10 stitches, k7, sm, k1, k2tog.
Row 50: Slip 1, k1, remove marker, *k7, sm, k2, p3, k4, p1, k9, sm, repeat from * to last 9 stitches, k7, remove marker, k2tog.
Row 51: Slip 1, *k7, sm, k4, ssk, k3, yo, k6, mBL, k3, sm, repeat from * to last 9 stitches, k7, k2tog.
Row 52: Slip 1, *k7, sm, k3, p1, k5, p2, k8, sm, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, k6, k2tog. [138 (242) stitches remain]
Repeat Rows 1–52 two (4) more times. [34 stitches remain]
END GARLAND PATTERN
NOTE: You will continue to decrease 1 stitch every row.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1, k6, sm, k4, ssk, k3, yo, k10, sm, k6, k2tog.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, k6, sm, k9, p1, k9, sm, k5, k2tog.
Row 3: Slip 1, k5, sm, k3, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, k10, sm, k5, k2tog.
Row 4: Slip 1, k5, sm, k9, p4, p7tog, k5, sm, k4, k2tog.
Row 5: Slip 1, k4, sm, k2, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k10, sm, k4, k2tog.
Row 6: Slip 1, k4, sm, k9, p5, p7tog, k4, sm, k3, k2tog.
Row 7: Slip 1, k3, sm, k1, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k11, sm, k3, k2tog.
Row 8: Slip 1, k3, sm, k9, p1, k1, p4, p7tog, k3, sm, k2, k2tog.
Row 9: Slip 1, k2, sm, s2kp, k1, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k12, sm, k2, k2tog.
Row 10: Slip 1, k2, sm, k9, p1, k2, p4, p7tog, k2, sm, k1, k2tog.
Row 11: Slip 1, k1, sm, ssk, k1, mBR, yo, k15, sm, k1, k2tog.
Row 12: Slip 1, k1, remove marker, k9, p1, k4, p2, p7tog, k2, remove marker, k2tog.
Row 13: Slip 1, k3, mBR, k6, yo, k3, k2tog, k4, k2tog.
Row 14: Slip 1, k9, p1, k5, p7tog, k2, k2tog.
Row 15: Slip 1, k9, yo, k1, yo, k2, s2kp, k2, k2tog.
Row 16: Slip 1, k4, p5, k7, k2tog.
Row 17: Slip 1, k8, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, k1, s2kp, k2tog.
Row 18: Slip 1, k2, p4, p7tog, p1, k6, k2tog.
Row 19: Slip 1, k8, mBR, yo, k1, yo, mBL, s2kp, slip resulting stitch back to left needle, k2tog.
Row 20: Slip 1, p4, p7tog, k1, p1, k5, k2tog.
Row 21: Slip 1, k8, mBR, yo, ssk, k2tog.
Row 22: Slip 1, p2, p7tog, k2, p1, k4, k2tog.
Row 23: Slip 1, k9, k2tog.
Row 24: Slip 1, k4, p1, k3, k2tog.
Row 25: Slip 1, k7, k2tog.
Row 26: Slip 1, k3, p1, k2, k2tog.
Row 27: Slip 1, k5, k2tog.
Row 28: Slip 1, k2, p1, k1, k2tog.
Row 29: Slip 1, k3, k2tog.
Row 30: Ssk, p1, k2tog.
Row 31: S2kp. [1 stitch remains]
Cut yarn and continue to Finishing section, below.
GARLAND PATTERN: CHART
NOTE: New to reading charts? Learn everything you need to know with our Reading A Chart Tutorial!
Starting in the bottom right corner of the Chart below, work right-side (odd number) rows from right to left and wrong-side (even number) rows from left to right.
Work Rows 1–52 of Repeating Garland Pattern 3 (5) times, until 34 stitches remain; then, work Rows 1–31 of End Garland Pattern once. Note that you will be decreasing the total stitch count by 1 stitch every row.
KEY
CHART
NOTE: Want to see it bigger? Download this chart (and key) as a PDF!
FINISHING
Weave in ends and gently wet block to finished dimensions.
Learn About Linen Quill + All Our Beautiful Yarns
We designed this project to highlight the uniquely beautiful qualities of our Linen Quill, a wonderful fingering-weight yarn that is a blend of 50% wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. It feels amazing in your hands, and in 70 jaw-droppingly gorgeous colors, Linen Quill is the candy store of yarn!
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To make a shallower triangle, could I just add a k2tog at the beginning of every row?
Hi Lulu,
Thank you for writing in! Unfortunately, we do not recommend altering this pattern so as not to disrupt the stitch pattern. If you’d like to play around with the stitch counts for the wingspan, we’d suggest working with the charted instructions. While we’d love to be able to help you with this, I’m afraid these kinds of modifications would be outside the scope of support we can offer at this time. Please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Gavriella
Brilliant!
I love this! Do you think it would be possible to make the bobbles in a different color so that they stand out as flowers? Or would that be too difficult?
Hi Ann,
What a great idea! You could try adding a second color in using intarsia, but I do think it will end up being very tricky. Please let us know if you give it a try though! I think it would be so beautiful.
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
You show that kerchief size requires 26 x 5 + 61 = 191 sts. Yet you have indicated you knit the shawl size. Are the 191 sts actually the shawl size requirements? If so, how many stitches did you use for the kerchief size?
Hi Rose,
Thank you for writing in! The instructions before the parentheses are for the kerchief size and the instructions for the shawl size are IN parentheses throughout the pattern. We have knit the shawl size for our sample but have provided instructions for both sizes for knitters to choose from. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Please tell me how you increase 6 stitches when you only yo 3 times?
MBR: ([K1, yarn over] 3 times, k1) into next stitch. [6 stitches increased] Note that on the following wrong-side row, you will pMBR: ([K1, yarn over] 3 times, k1) into next stitch. [6 stitches increased]
Hi Betsey,
Great question! Since this is a bobble, you begin with one stitch. Then, you work 7 stitches (4 knit stitches and 3 yarn overs) into that one stitch. So you end up with 7 stitches total in the same spot where you had just one stitch to begin with!
I hope this helps clarify things, but please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Lili
My bobbles leave a lot to be desired. Is there a trick to k7 and p7 that will leave the stitches nicely aligned,
like in the close up picture? Perhaps a video?
Hi Lyn,
Thank you for writing in! That is a great question! The most important thing to get your bobble stitches aligned is to make sure you are pulling the stitches to the same height for all 7 stitches. I also want to share that a lot of times, you can even out the stitches during the blocking process as well for the ones you think need a little extra love. I hope this helps!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Hello,
I am going to create a blanket from the kerchief size. I will be doing 191 st in provisional cast on. Do I work the first set up row to maintain right side as indicated, or would I just knit the first row and continue with set up row after this? Once I complete the kerchief side, I would take out the provisional stitches and commence with the pattern on the other side. Want to make this blanket seamless, just not sure how to proceed with the first row.
Thanks for you help.
Hi Rose,
Thank you for writing in! That is such a wonderful idea! Depending on which provisional cast on method you use, the results can vary. I would recommend working both set up rows and then omitting set up row 1 after you begin on the second half of your blanket (the 2nd kerchief). Just to be sure, I’d recommend knitting a small garter stitch gauge swatch with your provisional method of choice to try out how you’d like to join. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I’m struggling a lot with the bobble stitches. Even when I try to make them loose, it is so tight that purling 7tog and also working the mBL is really frustrating. Are there any videos you could link to, or do you have any advice for how to make the bobbles English style? This seems to be a special type of bobble that I can’t find on youtube, but I love the look of it and don’t want to give up! Thanks
Hi Ann,
Thank you for writing in! I would recommend going up a needle size just on the ([K1, yarn over] 3 times, k1) into next stitch section. This way your stitches will be nice and loose before knitting them all together. You could also substitute your preferred bobble method if you’d like as well. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
I came across videos for the nupp stitch, which is basically the bobble described in this shawl pattern. There are several ways to knit nupps and the one that involves using a crochet hook was the one that worked best for me. I’ve been swatching and practicing nupps over and over again in preparation for actually casting on the full project.
That is so great to hear and I am happy to you were able to find a method that worked best for you! I too always play around with bobble stitches in patterns!
I have a stash of beautiful worsted weight yarn that would look be amazing for this pattern, how would I adjust this pattern for that? Or is that even possible? If I use the pattern as is but with worsted weight I’m assuming it will just end up being very large?
Hi Elisha,
That is exactly correct! You can use the pattern with worsted weight and it would just create a larger version of the shawl. This way you will not need to make any adjustments at all! One thing to keep in mind is you may need an additional skein of yarn since this pattern is worked in fingering weight and since worsted weight will require larger needles, you may need more yarn. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
There must be something wrong with written pattern. Row three of pattern repeat. [k3, s2kp,k1,mbr,yo,k1,yo,k10]sm.
I only have 7stitches after the last yo. Not 10.
Help! I love this shawl but something seems to be off.
Hi Theresa,
Thanks for writing in! I just took a look over the pattern and can confirm that Row 3 is correct as written. This pattern is super easy to miss stitches in though (I know firsthand from knitting it myself!), so I bet that something just knocked you off pattern earlier in the row. I would recommend unknitting your Row 3, and counting your stitches before redoing it. It’s always good to double check your stitch count before beginning a row in a pattern like this, just to make sure everything is still on the right track!
All the best,
Lili
Ok. Thanks going to try again.