Wheelwright Shawl
Our Wheelwright Shawl borrows its engineering from the hand-makers across the town square to create a circular sweep of soft-as-can-be fabric!
An engaging construction, you form each spoke of the Wheelwright Shawl with short rows that, twenty-four spokes later, create a circle and a half with a rounded opening in the middle, all designed to swing around your body with beauty, grace, and a bit of drama, too.
If short rows are new to you, now is the time to get over that hurdle! Simple stockinette stitch clears the plate for focusing on a new technique, while 24 wedges offer enough practice that, by the end, short rows will be just one more arrow in your quiver.
When a gorgeous swath of fabric is the goal, our Cashmere Merino Bloom is a wonderful choice. Seventy-five percent extra fine merino and 25% cashmere, it is incredibly soft with a lovely glow that comes from the halo of cashmere fiber hovering over its surface. It comes in over two dozen inspiring colors, including this Golden Green, like a rare gem grown deep in a field of lichen!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoWheelwrightShawl and #PurlSohoCashmereMerinoBloom. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 5 skeins of Purl Soho’s Cashmere Merino Bloom, 75% extra fine merino and 25% cashmere. Each skein of this Light Worsted/DK yarn is 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1090 yards required. We used the color Golden Green.
- US 6 (4mm), straight or 24-inch circular needles
Gauge
20 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
NOTE: We used nearly 5 full skeins to make this wrap. To avoid running short, please double check your gauge and be conservative with tails!
Size
- Finished Outer Circumference: 168 inches
- Finished Inner (Neckhole) Circumference: 24¼ inches
- Finished Width from Inner to Outer Edge: 15¼ inches
Notes
CONSTRUCTION
You will cast on at a short end of this shawl and use short rows to create 24 pie-shaped wedges, which form a circle and a half with a rounded inner edge.
SHORT ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP AND TURN)
Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
For a step-by-step video and photo tutorial of how to work this technique, please visit our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn Tutorial tutorial, but do not move yarn to back before turning work.
Pattern
Cast on 76 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K1, p1, knit to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
SHORT-ROW WEDGE
Row 1 (right side): K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
Rows 3–6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
Row 7: K2, p1, knit to last 4 stitches, wrp-t (see Note).
Row 8: Purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
Row 9: K2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before wrap, wrp-t.
Rows 10–53: Repeat Rows 8 and 9 twenty-two more times. [3 stitches remain to the left of the final wrap]
Row 54: K1, p1, k1.
Row 55: K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps, p1, k2.
Row 56: K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
CONTINUE
Repeat Short-Row Wedge 23 more times, ending with Row 55 on the last repeat.
Next Row (wrong side): K1, p1, knit to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
With right side facing you, bind off in knit stitch.
FINISHING
Weave in the ends and gently wet block.
Learn About Cashmere Merino Bloom + All Our Beautiful Yarns
Soft, supple, and toasty warm, Cashmere Merino Bloom is an absolute knitting joy! A light worsted/DK-weight yarn, it is made with 25% of the most exquisite cashmere in the world and 75% extra fine merino wool and benefits from both fibers: cashmere for over-the-top softness and beautiful bloom and merino for resilience, durability, and even more softness. Cashmere Merino Bloom has an incredible hand feel with a gentle halo that illuminates your knitting… A gorgeous choice!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Cashmere Merino Bloom patterns and cast on!
More Light Worsted/ DK Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/ DK-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop cashmere yarn
- Shop merino wool yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I am fairly new to knitting but I really want to try to knit this shawl. I would like to use the German short row method. I am a bit confused as to when to wrap and turn. If the pattern says “knit until 3 stitches remain, wrap and turn” do I knit until 4 stitches remain with the German short row method.? Thanks for helping a knitter with a new skill!
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely modify this pattern to use German short rows instead! However, you’ll actually need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “knit until 3 stitches remain, wrap and turn,” you’ll actually need to “knit until 2 stitches remain, make double stitch.”
Alternatively, if you want to learn more about wrap + turn short rows, I want to let you know that we have a wonderful tutorial! You can find it right here. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Great reply. Clear and well, just perfect 😂
Thanks Lili! I got confused but now I get it!
Can you recommend a yarn substitution? I would like to make this for my daughter-in-law and she has a sensitivity to cashmere. Thank you!
Hi Christina,
Thanks for writing in. I’d recommend Morning! This yarn is a blend of cotton and yak, so it’s super soft and will not itch at all. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello, and how to make such beautiful edge eyelets?
Hello!
Thanks for writing in. Our Wheelwright Shawl pattern doesn’t feature eyelets, but I think that would be a beautiful texture to add! Were you hoping oh getting advice on how to modify the pattern to add eyelets? I’d be happy to help out with that, but I’d need some more information first! Can you let me know how you’re envisioning these eyelets to be placed in the fabric of the shawl?
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I would really like to make this shawl, but am confused by the instructions. Do you make 24 separate wedges and stitch them together? Do you do the short rows every row, dividing between the wedges? Please explain.
Thanks,
Deb
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for reaching out. Your second suspicion is correct! The design uses wrap + turn short rows on nearly every row to achieve the wedges. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I had the same question and still don’t understand (sorry, I am a beginner). Do I keep knitting and the wedges are all knit together?
Also – on the instructions under “CONTINUE” it says “Repeat S-R-W 23x, ending with row 55 on last repeat.
Next Row: K1, p1, knit to last 2 stitches etc.
Does the “Next Row …” apply to the last repeat only?
Thank you!
Miriam
Hi Miriam,
Thanks for writing in. Yes, you will simply keep knitting each row and the wedges will form one after the other! And you’re absolutely correct, “Next Row” only applies to the final repeat. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, can you suggest an alternative yarn that is more cost effective than the recommended cashmere merino bloom? Thanks
Hi Chloe,
Thanks for reaching out. I can absolutely recommend a more cost-effective yarn for this project! Flax Down, Morning, and Brooklyn Tweed’s Arbor would all work very well. I also want to suggest Good Wool, which we classify as both a DK and a sportweight yarn. I tend to find that this yarn only works up to sportweight for me, but if you’re a looser knitter, it may work as a substitute for a DK yarn as well! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
I’m sure I won’t be the first to ask but can German short rows be substituted ?
Hi Priscilla,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely use German short rows in this pattern! You’ll just need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I am fairly tall and would like to make this longer. Is that possible?
Hi Donna Jo,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely make this shawl longer by casting on more stitches at the beginning! The shawl is worked end-to-end, so the added length will remain consistent throughout. You will also need to repeat Rows 8 and 9 more than 22 times to account for the extra stitches. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I added a few stitch at the beggining and ended up with 90 stitches.
Does the pattern works with any number or does it have to be a multiple of something?
Thank you a lot!
Hi Halima,
Thanks for reaching out. This pattern works over a multiple of 3 + 1 stitches, so while 90 stitches will not work, 91 will! You’ll also need to make sure to repeat Rows 8 and 9 until 3 stitches remain to the left of the final wrap (not just 22 times). Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili, sorry I got your name wrong
Lili, I love your beautiful pattern and would like to knit with DK wool/yarn. Please can you tell me how much wool/yarn I would need and also how do I adjust the pattern to achieve the shape.
🙏🏼 thank you and I look forward to hearing from you soon.
Warm greetings
Hi Jasu,
Thanks for reaching out. This pattern is already designed for DK weight yarn, so you will not need to make any modifications! You’ll need 1090 yards to complete the pattern. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
This is gorgeous and makes me want to learn short rows… I’d like to have it longer… more cape like… falling below elbows. It’s likely more complicated than just casting on more stitches! Any guidance is much appreciated .
Hi Paige,
Thanks for writing in. You can absolutely make this shawl longer! The main thing to do is just to cast on more stitches, but you will also need to repeat Rows 8 and 9 more than 22 times to account for the extra stitches. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for this advice I wanted it slightly longer as well.
Love this! Thinking how cool it would look with ombre color treatment moving from wedge to wedge, but wondering whether that would be possible to do with a clean break between wedges? Or would that be challenging with the wrap and turn short rows?
Also, would Season Alpaca be a suitable alternate?
Thanks!
Hi Maren,
Thanks for reaching out! I think an ombre would be so cool for this project! And it should be manageable to treat each wedge with a different color, and transition from one to the next. As for Season Alpaca, it is a sport weight yarn so it is quite a bit thinner than Cashmere Merino Bloom, you could use it for this pattern but would need to make a few adjustments to the gauge. If you do, I would suggest starting off by working a gauge swatch with an appropriately sized needle, from there you can determine your cast on!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I have never used Understory. I was wondering whether you think it would be a good choice for this wonderful pattern.
Also, are all 5 skeins used up? I was considering making it longer- i.e. would I need a 6th skein in order to make it 18” long.
Thanks, Carla
Hi Carla.
Thanks for reaching out! Understory would be a perfect option for this cowl! As always, I would suggest working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern. For the yardage used, each skein of Cashmere Merino Bloom is 218 yards, and approximately 1090 yards are required for this shawl, this means that you are using essentially all of the 5 skeins. If you would like to add length to the shawl, then I would definitely suggest getting another skein or two to be safe! If you don’t end up using all the extras, as long as the skein is in the original condition you can return it for store credit within 6 months.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
What is the point of using the “Basic Long Tail Cast-on”? I find this a bit complicated and wonder how necessary it is.
Hi Lola,
Thanks for writing in! We recommend using a Long Tail Cast On because it is very beginner-friendly and very easy to use to cast on many stitches, but if it is not your favorite technique you could certainly use your preferred cast-on method!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I was reading through the pattern and only on row 55 does it say to to knit wrapped stitches with their wraps- is it that you do this on this row only and not on the other rows where there are wraps ?
Thank you, Claudia
Hi Claudia,
Thanks for writing in. You’re correct–you will only need to knit the stiches with their wraps on Row 55! This is because each short row you work is shorter than the previous one, so you’ll never reach any of the wraps until you knit the full Row 55. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Could you please explain row 53 when it says to knit the wrap stitches with their wraps- wouldn’t this have to be done on a purl row ?
Row 54 says k1, p1,k1 that’s it are you supposed to do that to the end?
Also, what does 3 stitches remain to the left of the final wrap ?
I’m sorry but I’ve been knitting for over fifty years and I cannot understand this pattern.
Hi Claudia,
Because each short row is shorter than the previous one, you’ll end up with just the final 3 stitches to knit on Row 54! That’s why this row is simply k1, p1, k1, and these are the stitches that “3 stitches remain to the left of the final wrap” refers to. After you complete this row, you’ll work Row 55, which is the very first full row after all the short rows–it passes over all of the wraps, which is why this is the row where you need to knit the stitches with their wraps.
While this pattern may be hard to visualize before starting, I have a feeling that as long as you’re already familiar with short rows, it will make more sense once you begin!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for your gracious explanation- I actually kept track of my rows and am now on my 11th wedge and it makes sense as does your kind reply- thank you once again !!!
-Claudia
I’m a relatively new knitter and still have the same question as Deborah. Will I be making separate wedges, then stitching them together? Sorry, and I also don’t understand row 55 at all. Thanks.
Hi Jean,
Thanks for writing in! The wedges are not made separately and then sewn together, instead you cast on once, and then use short rows to shape each wedge! For a step-by-step video and photo tutorial of how to work this technique, please visit our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn Tutorial.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
After completing each wedge, should the 6 full rows be repeated before starting the next set of short rows?
Hi Marcille,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, the 6 full rows should be repeated in every Short-Row Wedge! I hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I’m interested in making this beautiful project but want to cast on more stitches in order to make it drape more like a poncho. Can you tell me what multiple I should use when determining how many stitches to cast on?
Cheers,
Jenn
Hi Jenn,
Thanks for writing in. The stitch multiple for this pattern is 3 + 1, so you can cast on any multiple of 3 and then cast on 1 more stitch! You’ll also need to adjust how many times you repeat Rows 8 and 9, but for this, you can simply keep repeating them until you have only 3 stitches to the left of the final wrap. I hope this helps (and I’m sure this comment will be helpful for many others who also want to modify the cast-on)!
All the best,
Lili
Perfect! Thank you.
Hi 🙂
I have started already twice this lovely project but something is going wrong : can you confirmed to me that in row 9, we knit until last 3 stichs and not 4 like in row 7?if yes, what does it means « wrap, wrap and turn »?
I am in row 13 and the first 2 stitches stay « apart ». What I am no understanding?
Many thanks in advance and forgive my English as I am French 😉
Hi Pajonina,
Thanks for reaching out. I can confirm that in Row 7 you’ll knit to the last 4 stitches and then work the wrap + turn, and then in Row 9, you’ll work to 3 stitches before this wrap, and then work the wrap + turn on this row! You may find our tutorial on wrap + turn short rows to be useful in understanding how to do a wrap + turn.
When working this type of short row, the stitches on your needles should look like there are gaps between them, so it sounds like you’re doing things correctly so far. These gaps will go away once you work Row 55, knitting all the stitches with their wraps! Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you very much! This time, everything is clear 🙂
Thanks, Lili. I thought so, or the neck opening would be very small! Just love the pattern. 😁
I love this wrap but wool and I don’t get along well. I like knitting with cotton or hemp. Would it be possible to make this with a natural fiber yarn that is not wool? If so, what would you suggest?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! In place of Cashmere Merino Bloom, I would suggest using Morning! It is a similar gauge to Cashmere Merino Bloom so it would be great for this pattern. Although it is a blend of 75% organically grown cotton and 25% yak, I am happy to report that yak fiber is non-allergenic and is a good choice for those who are allergic/sensitive to other types of wool, and since it is only a small percentage of the overall makeup of the yarn and the majority is organically grown cotton it should be comfortable to wear.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
Thanks for your reply! Needless to say, I got a bit sidetracked with this project and just now returned to the Purl Soho website to watch the videos on short rows. After watching them, along with several others on YouTube, I’ve decided to use the German short row method. Today I purchased some yarn that is 50% silk, 25% wool and 25% linen. I’m excited to get started.
Hi,
I am not an experienced knitter but was very excited about this shawl. I finished the first wedge when I realized I must have started the wrp-t one stitch too late as I ended up with many more stitches remaining after completing the 22nd repeat of rows 8 & 9.
Could you possibly post photos of the Pattern steps to visualize what it needs to look like? That would be amazingly helpful. Now I have to start over and still worried that something will go wrong again.
Thank you!
Hi Miriam,
It sounds like you may be working your wrap + turn just 2 stitches before your previous wrap, instead of 3! That would leave you with many extra stitches after repeating Rows 8 and 9 22 times. I’m afraid we don’t have any photos of this pattern in progress though! If you’d like, you can send us photos of your work at [email protected], and we’ll be able to take a closer look at what may be going wrong.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you very much for your response, Lili.
You were right, I did work my wrap+turn 2 stitches before the previous wrap instead of 3, and had to start over. Now it looks better!!
Hi Lili, your responses to all these questions are proving very helpful! But, I too, need just a bit more clarification Row 9. When it says “knit to 3 stitches before wrap”, do I knit to the 3 stitches before the wrapped stitch (4 stitches before the gap) or do I knit to the 3 stitches before the gap caused by the wrapped stitch? Should I have 2 stitches or 3 between gaps? Thank you.
Hi Diane,
I’m glad that my replies have been helpful, and I’m happy to clarify your remaining question! When you “knit to 3 stitches before wrap,” you should see on your left needle (in order, from left to right): the wrapped stitch, 3 knit stitches. Once you work many short rows, you should see 3 stitches between each gap!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I have one more question:
What does it mean to knit wrapped stitches with their wraps?
Thank you very much.
Hi Miriam,
To knit a stitch with its wrap, you’ll use your right needle to pick up both the wrap and the stitch it’s wrapped around, and then knit both of those loops like a normal stitch. If you’d like a demonstration of this technique, take a look at our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial!
All the best,
Lili
Regarding Row 54: K1, p1, k1. Does that mean to work one row of rib stitch? It is so unusual to all the rows I have worked already, that it just seems very odd.
Thank you for your help.
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Hi MJ,
Thanks for reaching out. Row 54 is the final short row, so you’re only knitting 3 stitches in total! These 3 stitches are the border stitches, which are always k1, p1, k1 (or k2, p1, for right side rows). Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Good morning Lili. (We have to stop meeting like this.)
Thank you for clearing this misunderstanding up. Have to say, the way the pattern is written, makes me think the last three stitches are a WRONG SIDE ROW.
Have you had others ask the same question?
Thank you, again. Hopefully everything will go correctly from here on.
Have a GREAT DAY!!!
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Row 54 is so confusing to me! Am I turning row 53 as I have done for all the the previous similar rows? How do I k1p1k1 those three stitches without forming a loop with the short end? A picture would be really helpful for the row 53 to row 54 section.
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for reaching out. After you work the wrap on Row 53, you will still turn your work as normal, but you do not need to bring your yarn back to the front of the work as you do on all the previous wrp+t’s! This will make it possible to start with a knit stitch instead of a purl stitch. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Dear Lili (pretty name), Thank you for your reply. I waited patiently, bighting my lip the whole while.
Since all the previous rows had the three stitches included in the row, it made row 54 stand out ALONE.
Perhaps it would make sense to re-wright that as the last three stitches in the row… or am I the only one who did not understand it?
Thank you again. It was a couple looong, boring days with nothing to knit… which is not normal for me.
Have a great day… KNITTING!!!
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Regarding Row 55: K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps, p1, k2.
Confusion again: does this mean to knit together EVERY WRAP & TURN WITH its WRAP along the way, or just the last WRAP & TURN WITH its WRAP?
Next confusion: Does the 23 repeats begin with row 1 (after the Set-Up row) through row 55? Just want to be certain I am understanding this before I continue.
Thank you for your patience with me. I sooo appreciate it.
Hi MJ,
Yes, this row means to knit every wrapped stitch along with its wrap! And you will not knit the Set-Up Row for every wedge, only the first one. For subsequent wedges, you will just repeat Rows 1 – 56. Hope this clears up the confusion!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much for your prompt reply. Now I can continue knitting and quiet my stir-crazy mind.
Think Purl Soho needs more responders… I feel sorry for all of you wading through so many messages every day.
Thank you, again.
HAVE A GREAT DAY… KNITTING!
Bonjour,
Que veut dire “k1,p1” ou “k2 p1”? Ce sont des points spéciaux (endroit-envers?) pour former la bordure?
Je ne connais pas cette nomenclature
Merci pour votre réponse
Mp
Hi Marie-Pierre,
Thanks for reaching out. “K1” means to knit one stitch, and “p1” means to purl one stitch. If you’re unfamiliar with the notation we use for our patterns, I’d highly recommend visiting our Knitting Abbreviations + Terms page, so you can know for sure what our patterns are instructing!
All the best,
Lili
Hello again, ladies. I am CRAZY for this gorgeous shawl, however, I would like to know if it can be made longer. 15.2 inches leaves so much of my body exposed to the frozen tundra.
Praying it is possible…
Thank you for your help, yet again.
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Hi MJ,
You can absolutely make this shawl longer! All you’ll need to do is cast on more stitches at the beginning. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the length that you would like and cast on the closest multiple of 3 + 1. You’ll also need to adjust how many times you repeat Rows 8 and 9, but for this, you can simply keep repeating them until you have only 3 stitches to the left of the final wrap. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
AWESOME!!!! Thank you sooo much!!! Now the shawl will actually keep me warmer.
Thank you again for all your help.
I have given all my knitting friends this pattern, and they are raving. Tell Jake Canton I think he is an excellent designer.
HAVE A GREAT DAY!!!
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Hello Lili,
I just finished row 651 of my shawl… and spread it out to take a photo to share with my friend.
That is when I realized all my short rows were only about 15 inches deep. This leaves elbows above the bottom of the shawl. I could just cry!!!
So, my question now is, would it be safe for me to work the short rows from the neck edge to the hem? I feel like it would be the answer to my dilemma, but after this fiasco I am not confident to just go ahead.
Thank you for your time and attention to my query.
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Hi MJ,
Oh no! I’m having a hard time visualizing what’s going on with your shawl though, so it’s difficult for me to give an accurate answer. Would you be able to send a photo of it to [email protected] so we can take a close look?
Thanks,
Lili
Good morning, Lili,
The only photo I have of the puckering shawl is on my cell phone, and I am unable to send it from my cell phone. Insert TEARS here!
I had added length to the shawl and worked all the short rows. So, the shawl had extra length that had no short rows to stop the puckering. The extra length was unchanging once the shorts rows were worked.
Eager to get the shawl completed, I have added more short rows to extend to near the hem.
My question now is, how many rows should I work the new hem?
Thank you again, sooo much for your assistance. I sooo appreciate all you help.
Have a GREAT DAY, KNITTING!!!
MJ, the SKEINdinavian.
Hi MJ,
No worries, I think I have an idea what’s going on now! It sounds like you didn’t work the short rows far enough in each wedge. When I first advised on how to extend the length of the shawl in a previous comment, I mentioned “You’ll also need to adjust how many times you repeat Rows 8 and 9, but for this, you can simply keep repeating them until you have only 3 stitches to the left of the final wrap.” As long as you have cast on a multiple of 3 + 1 stitches, this will work out perfectly! So instead of repeating Rows 8 and 9 just 22 more times, you will need to continue repeating them until there are only 3 stitches left. Then you can work Row 54 as written and continue the final steps of each wedge.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili. You confirmed my suspicion about adding more short rows.
Hopefully, I will not be pestering you again…
except to say how grateful I am for all your help.
Have a great day… knitting!!!
How many stitches should there be between each little whole, two or three?
Thank you.
Matu
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! Between each hole, you should have 3 stitches, one of those stitches should be the wrapped stitch, and then two regular stitches.
I hope this helps!
Gianna
I am quite a bit into the wrap -t part of my first wedge. So every time you do a wrap-t a little hole appears. My question:
Should it be 2 stitches and then a hole or should it be 3 stitches and then a hole? I have a bit of both.
Please confirm. Thank you.
Hi Ute,
Thanks for writing in! Between each hole, you should have 3 stitches, one of those stitches should be the wrapped stitch, and then two regular stitches.
I hope this helps!
Gianna
I’ve started this two times and still have more stitches left after the 22 repeats of rows 8 and 9. I have repeats of 2 stitches close together with a gap in between. Should there be 3 stitches between the gaps? I guess I don’t understand where the “three stitches before the wrap and turn” begins on the knitted row. As you can tell, I’m not a very experienced knitter.
Hi Danielle,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you’re knitting to 2 stitches before the wrap, instead of to 3 stitches before! The stitches should look like they’re arranged in groups of 3 with gaps in between, so I’d recommend redoing this section and knitting one fewer stitch before working the wrap + turn on each right-side row! I hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
Planning to knit wheelwright shawl either in GoodWool or Flax Down . Which of those 2 yarns would give structured drape and softness around neck closest to the original cashmere merino? Thanks!
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for reaching out! That is a great question, Flax Down is a more similar gauge Cashmere Merino Bloom, Good Wool is a bit thin, so you would need to make a few adjustments. Flax Down is also very soft and will have a nice drape! As always, I do recommend working a gauge swatch to ensure you are consistent with the pattern.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I have finished !!! but am wondering what is the best way to block? Steam press with a damp pressing cloth as many wedges fit on my ironing board and let dry then repeat with other wedges or try using my blocking tiles,; moistening the piece, and letting dry ?? Thank you for your reply.
Hi Claudia,
Thanks for reaching out! You could steam your wrap if you would like, but for our sample, we actually wet blocked the shawl and laid it flat to dry on blocking mats! Since the shawl will overlap creating the circle and a half, we added a towel in between the 1st and 2nd layer while drying. For a step-by-step video of how we block our samples (including this one), I recommend checking out our lovely How To Hand Wash A Sweater tutorial!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Hello! Love the pattern. Wondering if you might be able to comment on how much longer (approx.) the shawl could be made with just one extra ball of yarn, and how many extra stitches would have to be cast on. Thank you!
Hi Marianna,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that it is actually quite difficult for us to calculate this, given that this shawl has such a fairly complex shape. I would suggest doing some experimenting on your own! This pattern works over a multiple of 3 + 1 stitches, so you can cast on more stitches according to that. Then, I’d recommend knitting one full wedge, and weighing the remaining yarn. This will give you a good idea of the yardage it would take to knit one wedge, which you can then multiply by 24 to get the full yardage of the slightly longer shawl. You may need to undo and redo this wedge a few times to find a length and altered cast-on number that work!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, that makes sense!
Thank you so very much !!
Hello. I have a couple of questions on this pattern. The photos of the pattern appears to look like a stockinette stitch, but the repeats of the pattern are more like a ribbed pattern (k2, p1). Is it intended to be a ribbed stitch? Also, the repeats of the even number rows for 1-6 (k1, p1) are different than the even rows for the wrap rows (p). this creates a slightly different at the beginning of each wedge. Is that the intent? Or have I misread the pattern? Thanks so much.
Hi Brenda,
Thanks for reaching out. This pattern is mainly stockinette stitch, except for a small ribbed/garter stitch border! The only times when you won’t be knitting in stockinette stitch are the first and last 3 stitches of each row. The remainder of each row will be either completely knit or completely purled, depending on what side of the fabric you’re on. I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Thank-you. I completely misread the pattern and thought that the k1, P1 applied to the entire row! Makes complete sense now.
How I am complicating a simple technique is dismaying but here I go…in substituting German short rows for the wrap & turn at row 9 do I knit to last 2 sts before making the turn? In row 7 I knit to the last 4 sts before turning? You probably answered this already so I apologize if this is so. I never did short rows before and I didn’t like the wrap and turn method so here I am in a quandary about a simple procedure! Think I need a nap. Thank you.
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for writing in. The rule of thumb for substituting German short rows in place of wrap + turn short rows is that you’ll need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So in the case of Row 7 and Row 9, here’s what they would look like if written for German short rows:
Row 7: K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, wrp-t (see Note).
Row 9: K2, p1, knit to 2 stitches before wrap, wrp-t.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Oh Lili thank you so much for the definitive clarification! It is a simple process and yet I was confused. Really appreciate your prompt help.
Oh well here I am confused again. I was reading a former comment that asked if the only wrap you knit is on row 55. I am doing German short rows and when I reach the “double stitch” I knit that and proceed to the end of the row where I p1 k2. Is this incorrect? Then on to doing the WS row and purling across with of course starting with k1 p1 k1. I really am befuddled.
Correction to what I just wrote, sorry that I am so turned around. In doing the German short row I stop knitting 2 sts before the double stitch, turn the knitting the the WS to make the German short row and then p to the last three sts & k1 p1 k1. When I am back on the RS row I never k the dbl st as have turned the work to the WS and P the row etc. What I cannot envision is how 3 sts remain to the left of the final wrap at row 53. Am I proceeding correctly? This is a novel construction so am having a difficult time imagining the evolution of the pattern.
Ignore former posts. I got it! Had a cup of coffee and untangled myself from confusion. I see how it will unfold. So sorry for contacting you unnecessarily.
Hi Melinda!
We’re so glad you were about to figure this out! We are always here to help if anything else comes up.
All the best,
Margaret
Hi Margaret: thanks for kind reply and how did you note that something else might turn up? Because oh no something else has come up and it’s MY fault for not reading the pattern closely. On row 8 I didn’t just P to the last 3 sts, I K1 P1 and K1 and then started to P, ending with a K1 P1 and K1, not realizing the pattern at row 8 deviates from the established pattern. I read all the comments and no correction for Row 8 exists so I have to rip rip out and start from almost the beginning. Am currently on wedge 2 so it isn’t disasterous, only frustrating. Note to self don’t knit when tired!
Sorry but I have another question. I am starting over again and as I would rather not start at the beginning again here goes…is the set up row done for each wedge? I am assuming not but…? Do all subsequent wedges start at R 1, not with the set-up Row? As ever, thank you.
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for writing in! The setup row will only be worked for the first wedge, all wedges after will begin with row 1.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Gianna: Thank you for reply and clarification. I have learned (yet again) to not knit when sleepy, dozy or otherwise fuddle headed! Looking forward to getting this on my needles again and knitting with a clear head!
I dropped this project to work on others and so am back with more questions, unfortunately. I have knitted and read knitting patterns for years but the instructions for this shawl are proving a challenge, and it is not the most complicated project I have worked on. I am starting to have doubts as to my mental capabilities! Ok – after completing the first set of Rows 1 to 6 the instructions are, “Rows 3-6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.” 1) Does this mean to work Rows 1 and 2 for a total of 4 rows of knitting before moving on to Row 7 OR 2) Does it mean to work 12 rows before moving on to Row 7? As there is no schematic accompanying this pattern and though I initially thought I was conceptualizing its evolution I now need to double-check my interpretation of the instructions as I don’t want to rip out and start over again. I realize a schematic would probably have to show different stages of the unfolding of the pattern as opposed to one schematic but since the construction is unusual it might prove helpful. As ever your help is much appreciated.
Hi Melinda,
I’m glad to hear that you’ve picked this pattern back up, and I’d be happy to help clarify these instructions! Like you’re thinking, “Rows 3-6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times” does mean to work Rows 1 and 2 for a total of 4 rows of knitting before moving on to Row 7. Since you’ve already knit through Rows 1 and 2 once, this will total to 6 rows! Here’s all of the rows written out fully, so you can better visualize the progress:
Row 1 (right side): K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
Row 3 (same as Row 1): K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.
Row 4 (same as Row 2): K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
Row 5 (same as Row 1): K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.
Row 6 (same as Row 2): K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
I hope this helps you continue along in the shawl!
All the best,
Lili
Dear Lili, thank you for your forebearance with what was be a very basic question regarding interpretation of seemingly simple instructions. I understood how to work each row but what was open to question in my mind was number of times Rows 1 and 2 were to be worked. What is clearer to me is something like “For rows 3-6, repeat rows 1 and 2 (ending with a total of 6 rows from set up row) and then proceed to what is row 7.” In retrospect my confusion confuses me! I was thinking length had to be added by doing rows 1 and 2 more than actually called for as the construction of the garment is initially mystifying. I should add that I tend to pick up knitting at night and I now realize I am not at my sharpest at that time. Thank you for holding my hand through this and now I can proceed but no, maybe I should wait until tomorrow morning after 2 cups of coffee! As ever Purl and you are stellar.
You’re very welcome, Melinda! I’m glad that my explanation cleared up your confusion about the instructions.
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I am struggling with Row 9 “knit to 3 stitches before wrap”. Does the 3 stitches include the wrapped stitch? Or knit to 3 unaltered stitches before the wrapped stitch, then wrap and turn, leaving three stitches in between wraps? I feel from other comments here it must be the latter – knit to 3 unaltered stitches before the wrapped stitch – but I would like to confirm before going too far astray.
Thank you.
Hello again! I found guidance in one reply to a comment that the wrapped sections should look like sections of three stitches with a hole between them 🙂 this is what I have, so I think I’m on the right track 🙂 thank you!
Hello!
I’m glad you were able to find the answer you were looking for! Feel free to reach out again if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting!
Carly
Hello! After a very long time away from knitting, I am going to tackle this pattern. If I wanted to use an all cashmere yarn, what would you suggest? Thank you!
Hi Liza,
Thanks for writing in! I think the Wheelwright Shawl is a great project for getting back in to the swing of knitting! This project would be so gorgeous knitted up in Zageo 6-Ply Cashmere as a substitute for Cashmere Merino Bloom. Zageo 6-Ply is a 100% Mongolian Cashmere yarn that knits up like a dream and is sure to keep you warm!
I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your shawl, just to be sure you’re using the right needles to get proper gauge!
Please feel free to reach out with any questions!
Happy knitting!
Carly
Just double-checking that the 3 stitch edge stitches are maintained in Row 8 and dropped in Rows 7 and 9? As ever thank you.
Hi Melinda,
Thanks so much for reaching out!
You are correct that you will not be working the edge stitches like you have done in the previous rows! Instead, starting at row 8, you will be working a wrap and turn at the end of each short row. If you haven’t already, you should check out our helpful Short Rows tutorial!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hi Carly. I just checked out the short rows tutorial which addresses the wrap and turn method. I prefer the German short row so assume I just proceed as if I were doing the wrpt at the end of row 8 and at each subsequent short row. I think of the staff as the “Purlettes” ⭐⭐- you are all so helpful and knowledgeable. Thank you and, I appreciate your prompt reply.
Hi Melinda,
Thank you so much for the kind words! We are always happy to help our crafting community!
German short rows instead of the Wrap and Turn method will work perfectly here as well!
Happy Knitting!
Carly
I appreciate all the previous comments & responses-they have been helpful.
My question is one could complete the shawl after 22 segments if yarn is insufficient to complete 34 segments?
Thanks
Anne O’Connor
Hi Anne!
Thank you for your question, and we are glad the other comments have been helpful! You can absolutely complete the shawl after 22 segments, however this will be less of a wrap and a half, and more of a wrap or capelet around your shoulders.
I hope this helps, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Margaret
Greetings, This is my first project using short rows, and I am using the German short row method. I altered the instructions for row 7 to knit to the last 3 stitches then turn my work and for row 9 I knit to the last 2 stitches then turn. I decided to work one wedge in practice yarn, knowing I might not get this right the first time. I have complete row 53, and I have 10 stitches to the left of the turn, not 3. On the RS I have 22 two-legged stitch with 2 knit stitches in between. I still have 76 stitches, counting the two-legged stitches as a single stitch. Any idea what I’ve done wrong?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you still need to repeat rows 8 and 9 two more times! The instructions say to repeat them 22 more times, after already having worked two wrap + turns (or in your case, creating two double stitches). So you should have a total of 24 double stitches, rather than just 22. Hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili. Sounds like I miscounted the rows, which is quite possible. I did go ahead knitting and turning until I got down to the correct number of stitches. At least I know I’m on the right track.
Thanks so much,
Susan
Hello: I have 24 sets of the little double stitches created by the wraps but I still have many more stitches than 3 and I’m on row 53. I cast on and still have a total of 76 stitches. Should I just keep knitting the short rows until I just have the 3 stitches to the left?? Thank you! Love the yarn and the color so much!!
Hi Cristina,
Thank you for your question! If you have more than three stitches left before your last wrap at row 53, you may need to repeat rows 8 and 9 until you have 3 stitches remaining to the left of the final wrap! Row 54 involves knitting the last three stitches on your left needle before knitting all wrapped stitches with their wraps in row 55, so you may just need to keep repeating rows 8 and 9 until you have three stitches left!
If you’d like some extra help with this, please don’t hesitate to reach out to us at [email protected]. A photo of your progress so far would also be helpful, if possible, so we can get you back on track!
All the best,
Margaret
Bonjour est il possible de trouver ce magnifique pattern en français ?
Hi Maryvonne,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to say that our patterns are only available in English at present. We will certainly keep your request in mind for the future, but for now, I recommend using an online service such as Google Translate like you mentioned to convert our patterns into French.
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I want to try this beautiful pattern, but I’m confused.
Is it worked collar down or edge-to-edge?
Hi SB,
Thanks for reaching out. This shawl is worked edge-to-edge using wedges of short rows! Due to the nature of short rows, each wedge is shorter on one edge, and longer on the other, and this creates the smaller neck-opening. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I have 3 skeins in the light pink bloom. Would there be any possible way of making this work with the 3 skeins?
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! You can definitely use your 3 skeins for this pattern, however, the shawl will turn out smaller. Instead of wrapping once and a half around your body, it will probably only wrap about once around.
Alternatively, you could modify the pattern so that it’s shorter, and then it would wrap further around your body! If that option is more what you’re envisioning, then all you would need to do is adjust the number of stitches you cast on.
To do this, you can multiply the number of stitches per inch (5 stitches) by the length that you would like and cast on the closest multiple of 3 + 1. You’ll also need to adjust how many times you repeat Rows 8 and 9, but for this, you can simply keep repeating them until you have only 3 stitches to the left of the final wrap.
Hope this helps make this project a reality for you!
All the best,
Lili
Well, now I’ve gone and done it.
My daughter wants a Wheelwright shall that has a 126 st cast on.
I have to do more row 8 and 9 repeats, but I have no idea how many more need to be made.
PULLING MY HAIR OUT!!!
Thank you for your help. YOU ARE A LIFE SAVER!!!
Hi MJ,
Unfortunately, 126 stitches will not work for this pattern, as it is not a multiple of 3 + 1. You will need to use either 124 stitches or 127 stitches instead!
The easiest way to keep track of your repeats of Rows 8 and 9 actually is to not count them! Instead, you can simply keep repeating them until you have only 3 stitches to the left of the final wrap. Once you have cast on a multiple of 3 + 1 stitches (either 124 or 127 stitches), this will work out perfectly! So instead of repeating Rows 8 and 9 just 22 more times, you will need to continue repeating them until there are only 3 stitches left.
All the best,
Lili
NOT A GOOD WAY TO START MY DAY.
I chose to make this shawl longer. I already knit everything up to this point.
The last row I knit was a right-side row, followed up by the wrong side row: “WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.”
What am I missing?
Hi MJ,
If you still have more short rows to work in the wedge, then it sounds like you’re in the correct spot! After working a repeat of Row 9 (right side), then you will repeat Row 8 (wrong side) again.
All the best,
Lili
Lili, I AM LOST. Would you please make more sense of the instructions you gave me?
Thank you in advance for your help, and my apologies for being such a pain in the neck.
Hi MJ,
Thanks so much for writing in! It sounds like from your last comment that you’ve just finished a Row 9 (Right Side) repeat and followed that up with Row 8 (wrong side). You just need to keep repeating these 2 rows until you have 3 stitches remaining to the left of the final wrap. You should be on Row 54 (a wrong side row) at this point. Proceed with the instructions for Rows 54 to 56, and you’ll have a completed wedge! This shawl is made up of multiple wedges, so you will continue making wedges until you’ve completed 23 of them in total, ending with Row 55 on the last repeat. Then, you’ll just have one more wrong side row to do before binding off!
I hope this helps! Feel free to reach out to us at [email protected] if you’d like to send any photos of your work and we’d be more than happy to keep looking into this over there!
All the best,
Cat
I am dyslexic, and now suffer from dementia, so my recall is a problem.
I do remember when I first started knitting this pattern there was something about wrap and turns, where the first one was supposed to be worked… but not all of the others.
I hope I have explained this well enough that you will understand what I am talking about.
It seems like there were three situations that were not explained in the pattern itself, but like after thoughts. I have started knitting this pattern more times than I can remember.
I am desperate to be successful knitting this pattern. It is to be a gift for my second daughter, as she liked the shawl as much as I do.
I hope and pray you have the answers to my questions.
Thank you in advance.
Happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and yours.
Hi MJ,
I’m always happy to answer any questions you have on this project! However, I’m afraid that I’m not quite understanding what you’re asking about this time. But here’s something that might help! If you scroll back through the comments, you’ll be able to find all the previous questions you asked, as well as all of my previous answers. (You can get to the previous comments by clicking the “Older Comments” button and then scrolling down until you see your name.) Hopefully this helps you access all the advice I’ve given in the past!
All the best,
Lili
I am tall and the modeled pic looks shorter than I’d like for myself so I just placed my order for 7 skeins. Would you be willing to make a recommendation for how many (maximum) CO stiches I can make and still have enough to finish a longer version of the project?
Hi Terry,
Thanks for writing in, and apologies for not answering your question sooner! It’s a really great question, but it required a lot of complex calculations, so I didn’t want to provide a rushed solution. In any case, I have an answer for you now! I would recommend casting on 91 stitches, which will extend the shawl by 3 inches in length and use up your 7th skein.
One thing you can do to double check this number on your end is knit up one wedge of the shawl with a cast-on of 91! Then, weigh the wedge in grams and multiply this number by 24. If the resulting number is less than 700g (the weight of 7 skeins of Cashmere Merino Bloom), then 91 stitches will definitely work as a cast-on number!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you! Your timing is just perfect. I am just finishing up the Striped Triangle Garter Wrap so I’ll get started on this project this weekend and your calculations and detailed answer is much appreciated! I will take the approach you suggest and please know that the time and effort you take to help with Q&A’s…..really does add value to my purchase!
Thanks again!
Terry
You’re very welcome, Terry! Happy knitting!
All the best,
Lili
FINALLY!!! (Even though you answered my question February 8, 2022) GAH!
Your answer was “Yes, this row means to K every wrapped st along with its wrap! And, only the first one. ”
I KNEW I was missing something, but couldn’t give it a name.
I CANNOT THANK YOU ENOUGH for all your help, even though I BLEW IT MYSELF.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Your friend, MJ
I’m so glad to hear that you found the answer you needed!
All the best,
Lili
I am finished with row 118 of what I have knit, and received your latest message. I am at a total loss with how to pick up where I left off, and am WORRIED TO DEATH that I may have to pull all my work (118 rows) and begin again.
An example is: Row 54, where there is only knit 1, purl 1, knit one.
Rows 55 and 56 look good to go… but time and your response will make all the difference.
I am SOOO SORRY to do this to you again, but I would like to post what I have completed already. HERE IT IS:
1. WS SET-UP ROW: K1, P1, K to last 2, P1, K1.
2. RS Row 1: K2, P1, K to last 3, P1, K2.
3. WS Row 2: K1, P1, K1, P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
4. RS Row 3: K2, P1, K to last 3, P1, K2.
5. WS Row 4: K1, P1, K1, P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
6. RS Row 5: K2, P1, K to last 3, P1, K2.
7. WS Row 6: K1, P1, K1, P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
8. RS Row 3: K2, P1, K to last 3, P1, K2.
9. WS Row 4: K1, P1, K1, P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
10. RS Row 5: K2, P1, K to last 3, P1, K2.
11. WS Row 6: K1, P1, K1, P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
Rows 3–6: REP Rows 1 and 2 two more Xs.
12. RS Row 3: K2, P1, K to last 3, P1, K2.
13. WS Row 4: K1, P1, K1, P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
14. RS Row 5: K2, P1, K to last 3, P1, K2.
15. WS Row 6: K1, P1, K1, P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
16. RS Row 3: K2, P1, K to last 3, P1, K2.
17. WS Row 4: K1, P1, K1, P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
18. RS Row 5: K2, P1, K to last 3, P1, K2.
19. WS Row 6: K1, P1, K1, P to last 3, K1, P1, K1
20. RS Row 7: K2, P1, K to last 4, wrp-t K ONLY the first wrapped st along with its wrap!
21. Yarn FRONT, SL next st P-wise from left to right needle.
22. YARN BACK. TURN P-SIDE FACING, READY TO PURL
23. RS Row 53: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t.)
24. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
25. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK
26. WS row: continue to Row 54 is a WS row, so everything works out!
REP Rows 10–53: REP Rows 8 and 9 22 more X. [3 REM left of final wrap]
27. 8. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
28. 9. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 1
29. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
30. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
31. 10. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
32. 11. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 2
33. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
34. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
35. 12. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
36. 13. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 3
37. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
38. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
39. 14. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
40. 15. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 4
41. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
42. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
43. 16. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
44. 17. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 5
45. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
46. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
47. 18. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
48. 19. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 6
49. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
50. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
51. 20. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
52. 21. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 7
53. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
54. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
55. 22. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
56. 23. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 8
57. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
58. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
59. 24. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
60. 25. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 9
61. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
62. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
63. 26. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
64. 27. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 10
65. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
66. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
67. 28. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
68. 29. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 11
69. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
70. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
71. 30. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
72. 31. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 12
73. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
74. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
75. 32. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
76. 33. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 13
77. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
78. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
79. 34. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
80. 35. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 14
81. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
82. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
83. 36. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
84. 37. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 15
85. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
86. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
87. 38. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
88. 39. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 16
89. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
90. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
91. 40. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
92. 41. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 17
93. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
94. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
95. 42. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
96. 43. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 18
97. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
98. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
99. 44. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
100. 45. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 19
101. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
102. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
103. 46. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
104. 47. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 20
105. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
106. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
107. 48. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
108. 49. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t. 21
109. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
110. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
111. 50. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
112. 51. RS Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t 22
113. YARN BACK, SL next st Pwise from left to right needle.
114. 52. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK.
115. WS Row 8: P to last 3, K1, P1, K1.
116. RS ROW 53. Row 9: K2, P1, K to last 3 before wrap, wrp-t).
117. YARN BACK, SL next st P-wise from left to right needle.
118. YARN FRONT. Return SL’d st to left needle. YARN BACK. Praying this is right so you don’t have to go crazy!!!
As always, I sincerely appreciate all your assistance. You truly ROCK!!!
Hi MJ,
I’m a bit confused about how you’re numbering the rows, but I think that you’re doing everything correctly! Have you completed Rows 55 and 56 yet? You mention in your comment that “Rows 55 and 56 look good to go,” so it sounds like you may have just finished knitting these! If so, then you can move onto the instructions under the heading CONTINUE, in which all you’ll be doing is repeating what you just knit 23 more times, to create the rest of the wedges!
All the best,
Lili
I’m having a terrible time with this pattern!!!
Regarding: Row 7: K2, p1, knit to last 4 stitches, wrp-t (see Note).
It would be really nice if you included the information for the (see Note) in the pattern itself.
My yarn is tattered from being pulled sooo many times… and I have broken down and cried sooo many times over it.
Please set me straing again.
In the meantime, I am praying again for this to finally make sense to me.
My apologies for the rant.
P.S. it’s snowing. Must mean Christmas is CLOSE.
Have a blessed day.
Hi MJ,
Goodness, I’m so sorry to hear that this pattern has become so frustrating! The reason that we do not include the instructions for how to work a wrp-t in the pattern itself is because that would become very repetitive and take up a lot of space in the pattern itself. The wrp-t is done on Row 9 as well, and all the subsequent repeats of Row 9, so we opted to put those instructions in the NOTES section for reference, instead of writing them out each time a wrp-t is used.
If you’d like a refresher on how to work wrap + turn short rows, I’d recommend checking out our tutorial!
All the best,
Lili
Lord, my mind is gone!!!
How many rows is one short-row wedge?
Hi MJ,
Each wedge has a total of 56 rows!
All the best,
Lili
I have pulled out yet another attempt at knitting the Wheelwright shawl. Looking at the written pattern, I am gravely concerned about the number of rows it will take to complete this project. What I am looking at is alarming, to say the least.
Thank you in advance for your help, yet again.
Your weary friend, MJ.
Oh no, I’m so sorry to hear that you’ve hit another stopping point in your project! Can you let me know what your concern is regarding the number of rows? I’ll keep an eye out for your reply, and then I’ll do my very best to answer your question!
All the best,
Lili
It’s Lili to the rescue… but I figured out that NOT EVERY LINE is a “ROW TO COUNT”
My row count now is only 1,288. MUCH LOWER than what the count was with everything that wasn’t a real row to knit. WHEW!!!
It has rained most of the day and windy and rainy tonight, so I didn’t get to do my “double time” walk. My poor brain is droning in useless thoughts…
God bless you, as always.
Oh, and I am on a great roll knitting tonight.
Hi MJ,
I’m not quite sure where you’re getting the number 1288 from! Since you’re knitting this shawl with a cast-on of 91 stitches, there will be 66 rows per wedge (instead of 56). Since you knit 24 wedges total, you multiply that number (24) by the number of rows in 1 wedge (66) to find the total number of rows. 24 * 66 = 1584, so there will be 1584 total rows in this shawl if you cast on 91 stitches!
All the best,
Lili
The good LORD has heard my prayers. After several days knitting, my brain is where it should be, and I finally understand my stumbling point on working short rows, and am on a roll.
God bless you for your patience with me. You will never understand how much I appreciate your standing by me through my “bad brain” days!!!!
Have a blessed Christmas and a happy, healthy New Year.
Hi MJ,
Oh I’m so glad to hear that you’re on a roll now! I hope you have fun continuing your project, and please don’t hesitate to reach out if anything else comes up along the way!
All the best,
Lili
Good morning! I am wondering if I can use Linen Quill for this pattern. I have 6 skeins that I ordered with no particular pattern in mind. Do you think this one would work without too much adjustment? Thanks!
Hi Christina,
Thanks so much for your comment! I’m afraid Linen Quill is much thinner than the yarn featured in this pattern, Cashmere Merino Bloom, since it’s a fingering weight yarn and Cashmere Merino Bloom is a DK weight yarn, so it would not work by itself for this particular pattern. You could potentially knit this shawl using your Linen Quill, though, if you hold two strands of this yarn together and knit with them in that way! This pattern calls for 1090 yards of yarn and 6 skeins of Linen Quill held double would provide 1317 yards, so you would have plenty of yardage. I would really recommend doing a gauge swatch though, if you decide to use Linen Quill held double, in case you need to adjust your needle size at all! Here’s our guide on swatching in case you’d like more information: All About Gauge!
Lastly, if you’d like to use your Linen Quill held single, here are all our Linen Quill patterns if you’d like to take a look!
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
I am giving in to this pattern, yet once again.
Is it unreasonable for this pattern to have 2537 rows?
This is how desperate I am to have this lovely shawl for my daughter.
Thank you in advance once again.
HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!
Your biggest pest,
MJ
Hi MJ,
I’m sorry that you’ve run into more trouble with this pattern! However, I’m not sure if I’m understanding your question. Since you’re casting on 91 stitches, in order to create a shawl that’s 18 inches long (instead of 15 inches long), the total number of rows in the entire pattern will only be 1584. Hope this helps clarify things, but please let me know if I misinterpreted your question!
All the best,
Lili
Si può avere anche il video grazie
Hi Francesca,
Thanks for reaching out. If you’d like to visualize how to do the wrap + turn short rows used in this pattern, I’d recommend taking a look at our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Thank you for sharing this beautiful pattern. Unfortunately I have some trouble with this pattern. I hope that you can help me.
Row 1 (right side): K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
Rows 3–6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
Row 7: K2, p1, knit to last 4 stitches, wrp-t (see Note).
Row 8: Purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
Row 9: K2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before wrap, wrp-t.
10 – repeat row 8
11 – repeat row 9
12 repeat row 8
13repeat row 9
14repeat row 8
15repeat row 9
16repeat row 8
17repeat row 9
18repeat row 8
19repeat row 9
20repeat row 8
21repeat row 9
22repeat row 8
23repeat row 9
24repeat row 8
25repeat row 9
26repeat row 8
27repeat row 9
28repeat row 8
29repeat row 9
30repeat row 8
31repeat row 9
32repeat row 8
33repeat row 9
34repeat row 8
35repeat row 9
36repeat row 8
37repeat row 9
38repeat row 8
39repeat row 9
40repeat row 8
41repeat row 9
42repeat row 8
43repeat row 9
44repeat row 8
45repeat row 9
46repeat row 8
47repeat row 9
48repeat row 8
49repeat row 9
50repeat row 8
51repeat row 9
52repeat row 8
53repeat row 9
54 k1, p1,k1 ( 3 last stitches from row 53)
55 k2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, knitting wrapped stitches with theorie wrap, p1 ,k2 [ what do you mean with ” knitting wrapped stitches with teir wraps ?)
56 k1, p1,k1 purl to last 3 stitches, k1,p1,k1) ( do you mean that the third stich should be a k1?)
After finishing 56 row , should I start with row 10 and repeat row 8 and 9 until I get to row number 56 again?
Thank you in advance.
With kind regard,
Hi Apru,
Thanks for reaching out. What you have written looks correct to me, but I’d be happy to answer your remaining questions!
1. “Knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps” is what you do with wrap + turn short rows to secure the row. We demonstrate this part of the short row technique in our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial, so I’d recommend checking that video out if this is daunting!
2. On Row 56, you will knit until there are only 3 stitches left on your left-hand needle. Then, you will knit the first one, purl the second, and knit the final one! After that, the row will be completed.
3. After finishing Row 56, you will begin the entire SHORT-ROW WEDGE again, beginning all the way at Row 1! Then, you’ll work all the way until Row 56 before going back to Row 1 for the third wedge.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Greetings!
My attempts to make this beautiful wrap have been challenging, but I’m not giving up. After various setbacks, I am so close to finishing the first wedge. I’m using the German Short Row method for the project. I am 4 stiches from the end of row 53, 23 wraps down, one to go. I turned with 4 stiches left on row 53, slipped the 4th stich from left to right needle, wrapped the yarn, pulled up to create the wrapped stich, and brought the yarn to front. Now I am ready to work row 54 – the wrong side – using the last 3 stiches that create the edge. Until I hit the edge this has worked perfectly, because with the yarn in front, I could proceed to purl the row. My problem is the first stich of the worked edge is a knit stich. If I move the yarn to the back, the wrapped stich isn’t right. Can you please help me out of this dilemma?
Hi Susan,
That’s a great question! Because the first stitch on Row 54 is a knit, rather than a purl, you can omit the final step of the typical wrap + turn. So instead of bringing the yarn to the back before turning your work, just leave it on the front. That way, when you turn your work, it will be in the back, right where you need it to work that first knit stitch of Row 54!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili, I’ve been away, and I’m just getting back to my project. I’m afraid I’m not understanding your suggestion to leave the yarn in front because the yarn is in back.
Row 53 is a knit row so the working yarn is in the back. Doing the German Short Rows I’ve been turning the work before moving the stitch that will be used to create the “v” shaped stitch, which means the working yarn that was in back for knitting is now in front. After turning I have 4 stitches on the left needle. Next I slip the first stitch from the left needle to the right, leaving the 3 border stitches of Row 54. With the stitch now on the right needle, I pull up and over the needle with the working yarn, and I have to bring the working yarn to the front to create the the “v” shaped stitch. I tried leaving the yarn in back, but the “v” shaped stitch doesn’t hold. I wish I could send you a picture.
Oh I’m sorry, I misread your earlier comment and didn’t realize you were using German short rows! My answer was for wrap + turn short rows. But I can tell you’re on the right track. You can work a right-side German short row as normal here, but just omit the step of bringing the yarn to the front. It may seem to not hold the v shape at first, but I promise that it’s correct! after you’ve finished knitting Row 54, you should be able to see the double stitch more clearly.
All the best,
Lili
I am not skilled in doing short rows. A friend advised to substitute the wrp-t and do the German short row method instead for this pattern. I have seen your tutorial. I’m still waiting for the yarn I purchased from you so I have time to decide. Do you recommend wrp-t over German short row for someone like myself with less experience? Will the German short row method look different on the wedges?
Thank you!
Hi Zulma,
Thanks for reaching out. Either short row method will end up looking exactly the same for this pattern! I would recommend sticking to wrap + turn short rows for now, since you won’t need to modify the pattern at all. That will just make everything easier!
In general though, I’d say that the choice mainly depends on which method of short rows you learn first. Both methods are easy to do once you get the hang of them, but I learned wrap + turn short rows first, so I always feel more confident in those. But many of my knitting friends learned German short rows first and they prefer those!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Thank you so much for the advice! I’ll do the wrp-t as you recommended.
In reviewing the pattern, I am a bit concerned about row 9, but I think it will make sense once I’ve knitted to that point with needles in hand. If I’m stuck, I will reach out to you for help. My order is due tomorrow. Can’t wait to start.
Thanks again.
Zulma
Hi Lili,
I didn’t think I’d have so many issues, and yet, here I am. Not so sure if I’m following instructions correctly. I am now repeating rows 8 &9. When I finish row 9, I knit to 3 sts before wrap, do wrp-t, turn work to wrong side. At this point, I do nothing with sts on the right side of the needle (to the right of the just wrapped stitch on the right side) and start repeat of row 8 (Purl, etc). Is this correct? The sts on the right side remain unworked? As I continue to do this with the repeats, those sts on the right side needle remain unworked when I start row 8. Because of that, I don’t know how I’ll end up with 3 sts to the left on final wrap. Hard for me to visualize it until I’m there. Also, as I look at the project on the right side, the sts on the left are not really increasing; project is only increasing on the right side. Is this correct? Another issue: since I now have enough repeats, I can see the pattern evolving and the body of the project has texture, unlike your picture with a smooth looking body. My work has definite formation of columns, not smooth looking surface like yours.
I was most careful with all the previous rows, repeats of rows 1 & 2, and did the wrp-t on row 7. Don’t know where I went wrong.
So sorry that I have so many issues. I will continue with repeats of rows 8 & 9. Based on my issues, if you feel I did something wrong, I will start over again. I am on repeat #5 of rows 8/9.
Thank you for your help Lili.
Zulma
Hi again Lili,
I decided to unravel and start again. There’s no way that I was on the right track. The shawl has a beautiful stockinette which I did not have. If possible and you can think how I could have made such a mistake, please let me know. Hopefully, it won’t happen again.
I’d also like a clarification of row 9: when I finish row 9, wrp-t, turn work. I start row 8 and don’t do anything with the sts on the right side of needle.
Thank you again,
Zulma
Hi once again Lili,
I started over and I’m on the right track. I have the stockinette as it should be. I did 2 life lines, one on row 7 and another one on the first row 9. I am now on repeats of rows 8 & 9. I am turning the work after the wrp-t and starting to Purl row 8 again, ignoring all stitches to the right. Please confirm that I’m doing that correctly. I now see what I did wrong previously. After so many years of knitting, I can’t believe I made such a mistake. I don’t even think I made such mistakes when I first started knitting. Started to knit again recently while grieving my mother’s passing and perhaps I just wasn’t concentrating. But, I’m concentrating more now and trying to stay “in the present” with the next stitch and the next wrp-t. I still want your clarification on row 9. I still can’t visualize having 3 stitches remaining to the left of the final wrap. But hopefully when I get there it will make sense. I understand that after row 56 I start a new wedge by starting on row 1, repeating 23 times (last repeat is row 55). Thank you once again. Sorry for the multiple messages. Hopefully, this is my last message but who knows what will happen. 🤞
Be well, Zulma
I have the Cashmere Ombre set and am thinking about using this pattern instead of the one(s) in the box. Would take a bit of algebra as the gauge is different, but what do you think?
Hi Betty,
I think that’s a great idea! If you need any assistance along the way, please don’t hesitate to reach out. We can help guide you through any calculations!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
After being so elated that I finally had everything right, I have a new issue. I must first apologize again for so many messages. I completed the 22 repeats of rows 8 & 9. On the very last repeat, I have one stitch by itself which would be a wrap. However once I wrap that stitch and I turn the work, normally I’d be ready to Purl. However, I’m on the last repeat on the wrong side and I only have 3 stitches left, the end of row 8, k1, p1, k1. But since I’m on the purl side I can’t bec that first stitch is a knit. I have recounted and I have 76 stitches on the needles. I unraveled all 22 repeats and started on row 7. So glad I had a life line. As I continue to do wrp-t’s I noticed that there are 2 stitches separating the wraps. The grouping eventually forms a trio: a wrap and 2 stitches, wrap and 2 stitches, etc. Counting this way, groups of 3 stitches, when I get to the end, there is still one single stitch left which would be a wrap, followed by 3 stitches which would be k1, p1, K1.
Please help. I believe I’m doing the wraps correctly. I knit to 3 stitches before previous wrap, wrap that next stitch, turn work, purl.
Why am I left with a single stitch on the final repeat of rows 8/9?
I hope this doesn’t sound crazy.
Hoping to get a reply soon. Thanks Lili!
Hi Zulma,
No worries at all, I’m just glad that you’re on the right track now! There should indeed be 3 (unwrapped) stitches left after your final repeat of Row 9, so it sounds like what you’re observing is correct.
But because the first stitch on Row 54 is a knit, rather than a purl, you can omit the final step of the typical wrap + turn on the final repeat of Row 9. Instead of bringing the yarn to the back before turning your work, just leave it on the front. That way, when you turn your work, it will be in the back, right where you need it to work that first knit stitch of Row 54!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so very much Lili. I’ve started again on the repeats of rows 8 and 9. I’m only on the 3rd repeat. Maybe this time when I reach row 53, I’ll have 3 stitches left. I appreciate your patience.
Hi Lili,
Just to let you know that I’ve completed the first wedge. I did have that one single stitch left which would require a wrap. I followed your instructions and omitted the full wrap. Since I left the yarn in the front, that single stitch looked as if it had a wrap anyway. I did the 3 stitches of row 54. On row 55, I knitted that stitch with the “fake” wrap as if it had been a regular wrp-t. I hope that was correct because I’ve started on my first repeat of short row wedge. Please advise about that.
Also, if this single final wrap was going to be worked differently, I didn’t see any special note on the pattern. Haven’t other knitters encountered this issue? I would not instinctively think of leaving the yarn on the front and would assume, as I did,
that I had made a mistake. I wouldn’t have unraveled the 22 repeats of rows 8/9 had there been a note on the pattern. Or…is it that I did something wrong somewhere and ended up with that single stitch which shouldn’t be there? As I continue with the repeats of the wedges I assume that I’ll continue to end up with that single stitch which will need a modification. Right?
Please let me know that it was correct to knit that modified wrap along with the stitch as if it was a full wrap.
If all is well, then I am on my way to do the 23 repeats. I hope I didn’t drive you too nutty every time you saw a message from me. I live in NYC and would have gone to the lovely Purl Soho store for help instead of driving you nutty. Thank you for always responding, acknowledging my issues and being so helpful.
Be well, Zulma
Hi Zulma,
It sounds like you’re doing everything correctly! I want to reassure you though that this final wrap + turn is a “real” wrap + turn–it’s just different from how you’d typically do one in stockinette stitch. Our tutorial shows how to do wrap + turns in stockinette, but there are many other stitch patterns that you can do short rows in that require a slightly different procedure. For example, the way you need to do the wrap + turn on the final short row of this pattern is exactly how you work wrap + turns in garter stitch, since you’re working with knit stitches on both the right and wrong sides there as well.
But I passed along your message to our design team, and they agreed that we should update the NOTES section of this pattern to reflect this difference. They omitted the “Bring yarn to back” part of those instructions, since you shouldn’t do that step on the final wrap + turn. On all the other wrap + turns, you’ll just need to remember to bring your yarn to the front of your work before purling!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
Thank you for your detailed response about that final wrp-t and for passing along the issue to the design team.
I started off so wrong with this pattern and now that I’ve completed 3 wedges, I see how wonderfully uncomplicated the pattern is. I love it!
Thanks again for your help/patience.
Have a great summer.
Zulma
You’re very welcome, Zulma! Glad to hear that you’re on your way with the pattern now.
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I found six skeins of Season Alpaca which I had bought at the shop some time ago to make a sweater. I decided against the sweater and was hoping I could use this yarn for the Wheelwright shawl. Will the different weight work with this pattern?
Thanks for your help,
Hi Nélida,
Thanks for writing in! I think you could definitely use Season Alpaca for this pattern. The gauge (20 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch) is a little bit on the large side for Season Alpaca, so I’d recommend knitting up a gauge swatch to determine which needles allow you to achieve this gauge.
Alternatively, if you’d like to knit the pattern at a smaller gauge, then you can adjust the number of stitches that you cast on!
To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width (15.25 inches) and cast on the nearest multiple of 3 + 1. Then you can follow the pattern essentially as written! The only other thing you’ll need to adjust is how many times you repeat Rows 8 and 9, but for this, you can simply keep repeating them until you have only 3 stitches to the left of the final wrap.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili for the helpful suggestions. I think I’ll go with the first option and report back on my results. So glad I can use the Season Alpaca yarn which is so soft and lovely.
Best regards
Nélida
You’re very welcome! Let us know how it turns out!
All the best,
Lili
Lili,
I’m really impressed by your patience (and math skills!) in handling all these questions! One more…I’m thinking I’d like to make a bigger wrap and accomplish that by using a heavier weight yarn and bigger needles…say 5mm and worsted. Do you see any pitfalls (say impact on the neck opening? Can you recommend a Purl Soho yarn that would work well!
Hi Raquel,
Thanks for reaching out! You can definitely make this pattern with a larger yarn–that’ll be super cozy! Using a larger yarn will make the neckline ever-so-slightly larger, since the row gauge will be a bit larger. However, I don’t think this will impact the fit of the shawl very much, since you can always just wrap it tighter around you, and any difference won’t be noticeable. Other than that, the pattern should work out perfectly. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I have finished this shawl, loved the pattern and the results. But blocking…..that is giving me some problems. Have tried single layer, and doubled over, but am not happy with either. It is laid out on a bed and my blocking pins don’t even want to cooperate. Any suggestions?
Hi Cheryl,
Thanks for reaching out! Due to the construction of this pattern, you will need to block it in two layers, so that all the fabric can lay flat. I would recommend either laying it out in a large circle and letting the ends that want to overlap do that, or folding it in half (like is shown in the 3rd picture on the pattern page). It’ll take slightly longer to dry due to the multiple layers, but no longer than a typical sweater, which would also be two layers! I’d also recommend holding off on using blocking pins unless absolutely necessary. The knit fabric, once wet, should have enough weight to lie flat as it dries!
All the best,
Lili
Lili, so the recommended blocking approach is to soak the shawl first? Then, fold in half (as shown in the 3rd photo on the pattern page) and lay flat without pins?
Hi Diane,
Yes, that method would work perfectly!
All the best,
Lili
I’ve just finished knitting this pattern with the Cashmerino yarn. Can you advise the best way to block this wrap? Soak it and pin? Or steam? Or some other suggestion? Thank you.
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! You can definitely use a variety of methods for blocking this yarn. We generally use wet blocking for most of our projects, and I believe that’s how we blocked this one. Wet blocking works particularly well with Cashmere Merino Bloom because of the yarn’s tendency to “bloom.” The water will really help open up the stitches and allow the fibers to bloom and interlock with one another for a super cozy and fluffy knit fabric!
All the best,
Lili
Not sure if I am doing the wrap and turns correctly.
What does knit to 3 stitches before wrap look like? Are there 4 stitches together at that point?
And what does 3 stitches remain to the left of the final wrap …. look like?
Thanks,
Jeanne
Hi Jeanne,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m happy to help clarify the wrap + turn short rows! When you’ve knit to 3 stitches before the wrap, you should have the following stitches on your left needle (counting from right to left): 3 regular stitches, 1 wrapped stitch (and then all your other stitches). Then, you work the wrap + turn on the first regular stitch!
In answer to your other question, “3 stitches remain to the left of the final wrap” means that once you turn your work after working the final wrap + turn, you should have only 3 stitches on your left needle. These will be the 3 stitches you work in Row 54!
I hope this helps explain things, but please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Lili
This is a lovely pattern and I’m off to a good start. I’m sure with practice I will begin to see the pattern, but for right now I have a question. I just finished row 7: K2, p1, knit 69 stitches, wrp-t and row 8.
For row 9, do I K2, p1, knit 66 stitches, or 65?
Thanks!
Hi Diane,
Thank you for writing in! For row 9 you will want to identify your last wrap and turn and then work the row as follows: Row 9: K2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before wrap, wrp-t. If you are having trouble identifying your wraps, you will want to gently stretch your stitches to see exactly where the slight gap is and mark that stitch with a removable marker so you can knit to exactly 3 stitches before that point. Some knitters find it helpful to place removable markers each time they complete a wrap and turn so that they know exactly where their stopping point is. This is also helpful to know how many wrap and turns you have completed. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi, I’m just about to start the wheelwright shawl but I want to make it longer to reach my waist or hips. How many sts do I need to cast on so it measures either 20 1/4″ or 22 1/4″ from inner to outer edge? (5″ or 7″ longer than indicated in the pattern). Many thanks in advance for your help.
Hi Patricia,
Thank you for writing in! To modify this pattern you will want to begin with a gauge swatch. You will then measure your stitches per inch by the desired height (finished width from inner to outer edge) of your shawl, in this case 20 1/4″ or 22 1/4″. One thing to keep in mind is you will want to make sure your cast on number is a multiple of 3+1 for this pattern to work out correctly and once you get to your short rows, instead of repeating Rows 8 and 9 just 22 more times, you will need to continue repeating them until there are only 3 stitches to the left of the final wrap.
I hope this helps but please let us know if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi Gabriella
OK. I’ve worked out that for 20″ I will need to cast on 103 sts (102+1) or 112 sts (111+1) for 22″. I knocked off the 1/4 ” to make things easier. Did I get it right? I love the pattern! Thanks in advance for your help.
That is exactly correct! Your numbers look great and you should be all set to start your shawl! Please let me know if you have any other questions along the way!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Many thanks Gabriella! I live in Madrid and it’s now nearly 9 p.m. so I will start knitting tomorrow, as it’s time for dinner… :)) Really looking forward to making the lovely shawl!
Many thanks!
Hello. Absolute beginner so help please…
Since I’m wrapping and turning on the knit side of the pattern, should I pick up wrapped stitches on the knit side or the purl side?
Please help. Love the pattern but I’m new to wrap and turn.
Hi Vani,
Thanks for writing in! All the wrapped stitches are knit with their wraps on Row 55 of the pattern, which is a right side row!
All the best,
Lili