Wheelwright Shawl
Our Wheelwright Shawl borrows its engineering from the hand-makers across the town square to create a circular sweep of soft-as-can-be fabric!
An engaging construction, you form each spoke of the Wheelwright Shawl with short rows that, twenty-four spokes later, create a circle and a half with a rounded opening in the middle, all designed to swing around your body with beauty, grace, and a bit of drama, too.
If short rows are new to you, now is the time to get over that hurdle! Simple stockinette stitch clears the plate for focusing on a new technique, while 24 wedges offer enough practice that, by the end, short rows will be just one more arrow in your quiver.
When a gorgeous swath of fabric is the goal, our Cashmere Merino Bloom is a wonderful choice. Seventy-five percent extra fine merino and 25% cashmere, it is incredibly soft with a lovely glow that comes from the halo of cashmere fiber hovering over its surface. It comes in over two dozen inspiring colors, including this Golden Green, like a rare gem grown deep in a field of lichen!
Designed for Purl Soho by Jake Canton.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoWheelwrightShawl and #PurlSohoCashmereMerinoBloom. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 5 skeins of Purl Soho’s Cashmere Merino Bloom, 75% extra fine merino and 25% cashmere. Each skein is 218 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 1090 yards required. We used the color Golden Green.
- US 6 (4mm), straight or 24-inch circular needles
Gauge
20 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
NOTE: We used nearly 5 full skeins to make this wrap. To avoid running short, please double check your gauge and be conservative with tails!
Size
- Finished Outer Circumference: 168 inches
- Finished Inner (Neckhole) Circumference: 24¼ inches
- Finished Width from Inner to Outer Edge: 15¼ inches
Notes
CONSTRUCTION
You will cast on at a short end of this shawl and use short rows to create 24 pie-shaped wedges, which form a circle and a half with a rounded inner edge.
SHORT ROW SHAPING: WRP-T (WRAP AND TURN)
Keeping yarn in back, slip next stitch purlwise from left needle to right needle. Bring yarn to front. Return slipped stitch to left needle. Bring yarn to back. Turn work so wrong side is facing you.
For a step-by-step video and photo tutorial of how to work this technique, please visit our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn Tutorial tutorial.
Pattern
Cast on 76 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K1, p1, knit to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
SHORT-ROW WEDGE
Row 1 (right side): K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
Rows 3–6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.
Row 7: K2, p1, knit to last 4 stitches, wrp-t (see Note).
Row 8: Purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
Row 9: K2, p1, knit to 3 stitches before wrap, wrp-t.
Rows 10–53: Repeat Rows 8 and 9 twenty-two more times. [3 stitches remain to the left of the final wrap]
Row 54: K1, p1, k1.
Row 55: K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps, p1, k2.
Row 56: K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
CONTINUE
Repeat Short-Row Wedge 23 more times, ending with Row 55 on the last repeat.
Next Row (wrong side): K1, p1, knit to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
With right side facing you, bind off in knit stitch.
FINISHING
Weave in the ends and gently wet block.
I am fairly new to knitting but I really want to try to knit this shawl. I would like to use the German short row method. I am a bit confused as to when to wrap and turn. If the pattern says “knit until 3 stitches remain, wrap and turn” do I knit until 4 stitches remain with the German short row method.? Thanks for helping a knitter with a new skill!
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely modify this pattern to use German short rows instead! However, you’ll actually need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So if the pattern says “knit until 3 stitches remain, wrap and turn,” you’ll actually need to “knit until 2 stitches remain, make double stitch.”
Alternatively, if you want to learn more about wrap + turn short rows, I want to let you know that we have a wonderful tutorial! You can find it right here. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Great reply. Clear and well, just perfect 😂
Thanks Lili! I got confused but now I get it!
Hello,
I would really like to make this shawl, but am confused by the instructions. Do you make 24 separate wedges and stitch them together? Do you do the short rows every row, dividing between the wedges? Please explain.
Thanks,
Deb
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for reaching out. Your second suspicion is correct! The design uses wrap + turn short rows on nearly every row to achieve the wedges. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili,
I had the same question and still don’t understand (sorry, I am a beginner). Do I keep knitting and the wedges are all knit together?
Also – on the instructions under “CONTINUE” it says “Repeat S-R-W 23x, ending with row 55 on last repeat.
Next Row: K1, p1, knit to last 2 stitches etc.
Does the “Next Row …” apply to the last repeat only?
Thank you!
Miriam
Hi Miriam,
Thanks for writing in. Yes, you will simply keep knitting each row and the wedges will form one after the other! And you’re absolutely correct, “Next Row” only applies to the final repeat. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, can you suggest an alternative yarn that is more cost effective than the recommended cashmere merino bloom? Thanks
Hi Chloe,
Thanks for reaching out. I can absolutely recommend a more cost-effective yarn for this project! Flax Down, Morning, and Brooklyn Tweed’s Arbor would all work very well. I also want to suggest Good Wool, which we classify as both a DK and a sportweight yarn. I tend to find that this yarn only works up to sportweight for me, but if you’re a looser knitter, it may work as a substitute for a DK yarn as well! Hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
I’m sure I won’t be the first to ask but can German short rows be substituted ?
Hi Priscilla,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely use German short rows in this pattern! You’ll just need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I am fairly tall and would like to make this longer. Is that possible?
Hi Donna Jo,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely make this shawl longer by casting on more stitches at the beginning! The shawl is worked end-to-end, so the added length will remain consistent throughout. You will also need to repeat Rows 8 and 9 more than 22 times to account for the extra stitches. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi Lili, sorry I got your name wrong
Lili, I love your beautiful pattern and would like to knit with DK wool/yarn. Please can you tell me how much wool/yarn I would need and also how do I adjust the pattern to achieve the shape.
🙏🏼 thank you and I look forward to hearing from you soon.
Warm greetings
Hi Jasu,
Thanks for reaching out. This pattern is already designed for DK weight yarn, so you will not need to make any modifications! You’ll need 1090 yards to complete the pattern. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
This is gorgeous and makes me want to learn short rows… I’d like to have it longer… more cape like… falling below elbows. It’s likely more complicated than just casting on more stitches! Any guidance is much appreciated .
Hi Paige,
Thanks for writing in. You can absolutely make this shawl longer! The main thing to do is just to cast on more stitches, but you will also need to repeat Rows 8 and 9 more than 22 times to account for the extra stitches. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks for this advice I wanted it slightly longer as well.
Love this! Thinking how cool it would look with ombre color treatment moving from wedge to wedge, but wondering whether that would be possible to do with a clean break between wedges? Or would that be challenging with the wrap and turn short rows?
Also, would Season Alpaca be a suitable alternate?
Thanks!
Hi Maren,
Thanks for reaching out! I think an ombre would be so cool for this project! And it should be manageable to treat each wedge with a different color, and transition from one to the next. As for Season Alpaca, it is a sport weight yarn so it is quite a bit thinner than Cashmere Merino Bloom, you could use it for this pattern but would need to make a few adjustments to the gauge. If you do, I would suggest starting off by working a gauge swatch with an appropriately sized needle, from there you can determine your cast on!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I have never used Understory. I was wondering whether you think it would be a good choice for this wonderful pattern.
Also, are all 5 skeins used up? I was considering making it longer- i.e. would I need a 6th skein in order to make it 18” long.
Thanks, Carla
Hi Carla.
Thanks for reaching out! Understory would be a perfect option for this cowl! As always, I would suggest working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern. For the yardage used, each skein of Cashmere Merino Bloom is 218 yards, and approximately 1090 yards are required for this shawl, this means that you are using essentially all of the 5 skeins. If you would like to add length to the shawl, then I would definitely suggest getting another skein or two to be safe! If you don’t end up using all the extras, as long as the skein is in the original condition you can return it for store credit within 6 months.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
What is the point of using the “Basic Long Tail Cast-on”? I find this a bit complicated and wonder how necessary it is.
Hi Lola,
Thanks for writing in! We recommend using a Long Tail Cast On because it is very beginner-friendly and very easy to use to cast on many stitches, but if it is not your favorite technique you could certainly use your preferred cast-on method!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
I was reading through the pattern and only on row 55 does it say to to knit wrapped stitches with their wraps- is it that you do this on this row only and not on the other rows where there are wraps ?
Thank you, Claudia
Hi Claudia,
Thanks for writing in. You’re correct–you will only need to knit the stiches with their wraps on Row 55! This is because each short row you work is shorter than the previous one, so you’ll never reach any of the wraps until you knit the full Row 55. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Could you please explain row 53 when it says to knit the wrap stitches with their wraps- wouldn’t this have to be done on a purl row ?
Row 54 says k1, p1,k1 that’s it are you supposed to do that to the end?
Also, what does 3 stitches remain to the left of the final wrap ?
I’m sorry but I’ve been knitting for over fifty years and I cannot understand this pattern.
Hi Claudia,
Because each short row is shorter than the previous one, you’ll end up with just the final 3 stitches to knit on Row 54! That’s why this row is simply k1, p1, k1, and these are the stitches that “3 stitches remain to the left of the final wrap” refers to. After you complete this row, you’ll work Row 55, which is the very first full row after all the short rows–it passes over all of the wraps, which is why this is the row where you need to knit the stitches with their wraps.
While this pattern may be hard to visualize before starting, I have a feeling that as long as you’re already familiar with short rows, it will make more sense once you begin!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you for your gracious explanation- I actually kept track of my rows and am now on my 11th wedge and it makes sense as does your kind reply- thank you once again !!!
-Claudia
I’m a relatively new knitter and still have the same question as Deborah. Will I be making separate wedges, then stitching them together? Sorry, and I also don’t understand row 55 at all. Thanks.
Hi Jean,
Thanks for writing in! The wedges are not made separately and then sewn together, instead you cast on once, and then use short rows to shape each wedge! For a step-by-step video and photo tutorial of how to work this technique, please visit our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn Tutorial.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
After completing each wedge, should the 6 full rows be repeated before starting the next set of short rows?
Hi Marcille,
Thanks for reaching out. Yes, the 6 full rows should be repeated in every Short-Row Wedge! I hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
Hello! I’m interested in making this beautiful project but want to cast on more stitches in order to make it drape more like a poncho. Can you tell me what multiple I should use when determining how many stitches to cast on?
Cheers,
Jenn
Hi Jenn,
Thanks for writing in. The stitch multiple for this pattern is 3 + 1, so you can cast on any multiple of 3 and then cast on 1 more stitch! You’ll also need to adjust how many times you repeat Rows 8 and 9, but for this, you can simply keep repeating them until you have only 3 stitches to the left of the final wrap. I hope this helps (and I’m sure this comment will be helpful for many others who also want to modify the cast-on)!
All the best,
Lili
Perfect! Thank you.
Hi 🙂
I have started already twice this lovely project but something is going wrong : can you confirmed to me that in row 9, we knit until last 3 stichs and not 4 like in row 7?if yes, what does it means « wrap, wrap and turn »?
I am in row 13 and the first 2 stitches stay « apart ». What I am no understanding?
Many thanks in advance and forgive my English as I am French 😉
Hi Pajonina,
Thanks for reaching out. I can confirm that in Row 7 you’ll knit to the last 4 stitches and then work the wrap + turn, and then in Row 9, you’ll work to 3 stitches before this wrap, and then work the wrap + turn on this row! You may find our tutorial on wrap + turn short rows to be useful in understanding how to do a wrap + turn.
When working this type of short row, the stitches on your needles should look like there are gaps between them, so it sounds like you’re doing things correctly so far. These gaps will go away once you work Row 55, knitting all the stitches with their wraps! Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you very much! This time, everything is clear 🙂
Thanks, Lili. I thought so, or the neck opening would be very small! Just love the pattern. 😁
I love this wrap but wool and I don’t get along well. I like knitting with cotton or hemp. Would it be possible to make this with a natural fiber yarn that is not wool? If so, what would you suggest?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! In place of Cashmere Merino Bloom, I would suggest using Morning! It is a similar gauge to Cashmere Merino Bloom so it would be great for this pattern. Although it is a blend of 75% organically grown cotton and 25% yak, I am happy to report that yak fiber is non-allergenic and is a good choice for those who are allergic/sensitive to other types of wool, and since it is only a small percentage of the overall makeup of the yarn and the majority is organically grown cotton it should be comfortable to wear.
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any other questions!
Gianna
Hi Gianna,
Thanks for your reply! Needless to say, I got a bit sidetracked with this project and just now returned to the Purl Soho website to watch the videos on short rows. After watching them, along with several others on YouTube, I’ve decided to use the German short row method. Today I purchased some yarn that is 50% silk, 25% wool and 25% linen. I’m excited to get started.
Hi,
I am not an experienced knitter but was very excited about this shawl. I finished the first wedge when I realized I must have started the wrp-t one stitch too late as I ended up with many more stitches remaining after completing the 22nd repeat of rows 8 & 9.
Could you possibly post photos of the Pattern steps to visualize what it needs to look like? That would be amazingly helpful. Now I have to start over and still worried that something will go wrong again.
Thank you!
Hi Miriam,
It sounds like you may be working your wrap + turn just 2 stitches before your previous wrap, instead of 3! That would leave you with many extra stitches after repeating Rows 8 and 9 22 times. I’m afraid we don’t have any photos of this pattern in progress though! If you’d like, you can send us photos of your work at customerservice@purlsoho.com, and we’ll be able to take a closer look at what may be going wrong.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you very much for your response, Lili.
You were right, I did work my wrap+turn 2 stitches before the previous wrap instead of 3, and had to start over. Now it looks better!!
Hello,
I have one more question:
What does it mean to knit wrapped stitches with their wraps?
Thank you very much.
Hi Miriam,
To knit a stitch with its wrap, you’ll use your right needle to pick up both the wrap and the stitch it’s wrapped around, and then knit both of those loops like a normal stitch. If you’d like a demonstration of this technique, take a look at our Short Rows: Wrap + Turn tutorial!
All the best,
Lili
Regarding Row 54: K1, p1, k1. Does that mean to work one row of rib stitch? It is so unusual to all the rows I have worked already, that it just seems very odd.
Thank you for your help.
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Hi MJ,
Thanks for reaching out. Row 54 is the final short row, so you’re only knitting 3 stitches in total! These 3 stitches are the border stitches, which are always k1, p1, k1 (or k2, p1, for right side rows). Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Good morning Lili. (We have to stop meeting like this.)
Thank you for clearing this misunderstanding up. Have to say, the way the pattern is written, makes me think the last three stitches are a WRONG SIDE ROW.
Have you had others ask the same question?
Thank you, again. Hopefully everything will go correctly from here on.
Have a GREAT DAY!!!
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Row 54 is so confusing to me! Am I turning row 53 as I have done for all the the previous similar rows? How do I k1p1k1 those three stitches without forming a loop with the short end? A picture would be really helpful for the row 53 to row 54 section.
Hi Debbie,
Thanks for reaching out. After you work the wrap on Row 53, you will still turn your work as normal, but you do not need to bring your yarn back to the front of the work as you do on all the previous wrp+t’s! This will make it possible to start with a knit stitch instead of a purl stitch. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Dear Lili (pretty name), Thank you for your reply. I waited patiently, bighting my lip the whole while.
Since all the previous rows had the three stitches included in the row, it made row 54 stand out ALONE.
Perhaps it would make sense to re-wright that as the last three stitches in the row… or am I the only one who did not understand it?
Thank you again. It was a couple looong, boring days with nothing to knit… which is not normal for me.
Have a great day… KNITTING!!!
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Regarding Row 55: K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, knitting wrapped stitches with their wraps, p1, k2.
Confusion again: does this mean to knit together EVERY WRAP & TURN WITH its WRAP along the way, or just the last WRAP & TURN WITH its WRAP?
Next confusion: Does the 23 repeats begin with row 1 (after the Set-Up row) through row 55? Just want to be certain I am understanding this before I continue.
Thank you for your patience with me. I sooo appreciate it.
Hi MJ,
Yes, this row means to knit every wrapped stitch along with its wrap! And you will not knit the Set-Up Row for every wedge, only the first one. For subsequent wedges, you will just repeat Rows 1 – 56. Hope this clears up the confusion!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you so much for your prompt reply. Now I can continue knitting and quiet my stir-crazy mind.
Think Purl Soho needs more responders… I feel sorry for all of you wading through so many messages every day.
Thank you, again.
HAVE A GREAT DAY… KNITTING!
Bonjour,
Que veut dire “k1,p1” ou “k2 p1”? Ce sont des points spéciaux (endroit-envers?) pour former la bordure?
Je ne connais pas cette nomenclature
Merci pour votre réponse
Mp
Hi Marie-Pierre,
Thanks for reaching out. “K1” means to knit one stitch, and “p1” means to purl one stitch. If you’re unfamiliar with the notation we use for our patterns, I’d highly recommend visiting our Knitting Abbreviations + Terms page, so you can know for sure what our patterns are instructing!
All the best,
Lili
Hello again, ladies. I am CRAZY for this gorgeous shawl, however, I would like to know if it can be made longer. 15.2 inches leaves so much of my body exposed to the frozen tundra.
Praying it is possible…
Thank you for your help, yet again.
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Hi MJ,
You can absolutely make this shawl longer! All you’ll need to do is cast on more stitches at the beginning. To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern. Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the length that you would like and cast on the closest multiple of 3 + 1. You’ll also need to adjust how many times you repeat Rows 8 and 9, but for this, you can simply keep repeating them until you have only 3 stitches to the left of the final wrap. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
AWESOME!!!! Thank you sooo much!!! Now the shawl will actually keep me warmer.
Thank you again for all your help.
I have given all my knitting friends this pattern, and they are raving. Tell Jake Canton I think he is an excellent designer.
HAVE A GREAT DAY!!!
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Hello Lili,
I just finished row 651 of my shawl… and spread it out to take a photo to share with my friend.
That is when I realized all my short rows were only about 15 inches deep. This leaves elbows above the bottom of the shawl. I could just cry!!!
So, my question now is, would it be safe for me to work the short rows from the neck edge to the hem? I feel like it would be the answer to my dilemma, but after this fiasco I am not confident to just go ahead.
Thank you for your time and attention to my query.
MJ, the SKEINdinavian
Hi MJ,
Oh no! I’m having a hard time visualizing what’s going on with your shawl though, so it’s difficult for me to give an accurate answer. Would you be able to send a photo of it to customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can take a close look?
Thanks,
Lili
Good morning, Lili,
The only photo I have of the puckering shawl is on my cell phone, and I am unable to send it from my cell phone. Insert TEARS here!
I had added length to the shawl and worked all the short rows. So, the shawl had extra length that had no short rows to stop the puckering. The extra length was unchanging once the shorts rows were worked.
Eager to get the shawl completed, I have added more short rows to extend to near the hem.
My question now is, how many rows should I work the new hem?
Thank you again, sooo much for your assistance. I sooo appreciate all you help.
Have a GREAT DAY, KNITTING!!!
MJ, the SKEINdinavian.
Hi MJ,
No worries, I think I have an idea what’s going on now! It sounds like you didn’t work the short rows far enough in each wedge. When I first advised on how to extend the length of the shawl in a previous comment, I mentioned “You’ll also need to adjust how many times you repeat Rows 8 and 9, but for this, you can simply keep repeating them until you have only 3 stitches to the left of the final wrap.” As long as you have cast on a multiple of 3 + 1 stitches, this will work out perfectly! So instead of repeating Rows 8 and 9 just 22 more times, you will need to continue repeating them until there are only 3 stitches left. Then you can work Row 54 as written and continue the final steps of each wedge.
All the best,
Lili
Thank you Lili. You confirmed my suspicion about adding more short rows.
Hopefully, I will not be pestering you again…
except to say how grateful I am for all your help.
Have a great day… knitting!!!
How many stitches should there be between each little whole, two or three?
Thank you.
Matu
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! Between each hole, you should have 3 stitches, one of those stitches should be the wrapped stitch, and then two regular stitches.
I hope this helps!
Gianna
I am quite a bit into the wrap -t part of my first wedge. So every time you do a wrap-t a little hole appears. My question:
Should it be 2 stitches and then a hole or should it be 3 stitches and then a hole? I have a bit of both.
Please confirm. Thank you.
Hi Ute,
Thanks for writing in! Between each hole, you should have 3 stitches, one of those stitches should be the wrapped stitch, and then two regular stitches.
I hope this helps!
Gianna
I’ve started this two times and still have more stitches left after the 22 repeats of rows 8 and 9. I have repeats of 2 stitches close together with a gap in between. Should there be 3 stitches between the gaps? I guess I don’t understand where the “three stitches before the wrap and turn” begins on the knitted row. As you can tell, I’m not a very experienced knitter.
Hi Danielle,
Thanks for reaching out. It sounds like you’re knitting to 2 stitches before the wrap, instead of to 3 stitches before! The stitches should look like they’re arranged in groups of 3 with gaps in between, so I’d recommend redoing this section and knitting one fewer stitch before working the wrap + turn on each right-side row! I hope this helps clarify things.
All the best,
Lili
Planning to knit wheelwright shawl either in GoodWool or Flax Down . Which of those 2 yarns would give structured drape and softness around neck closest to the original cashmere merino? Thanks!
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for reaching out! That is a great question, Flax Down is a more similar gauge Cashmere Merino Bloom, Good Wool is a bit thin, so you would need to make a few adjustments. Flax Down is also very soft and will have a nice drape! As always, I do recommend working a gauge swatch to ensure you are consistent with the pattern.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I have finished !!! but am wondering what is the best way to block? Steam press with a damp pressing cloth as many wedges fit on my ironing board and let dry then repeat with other wedges or try using my blocking tiles,; moistening the piece, and letting dry ?? Thank you for your reply.
Hi Claudia,
Thanks for reaching out! You could steam your wrap if you would like, but for our sample, we actually wet blocked the shawl and laid it flat to dry on blocking mats! Since the shawl will overlap creating the circle and a half, we added a towel in between the 1st and 2nd layer while drying. For a step-by-step video of how we block our samples (including this one), I recommend checking out our lovely How To Hand Wash A Sweater tutorial!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
Hello! Love the pattern. Wondering if you might be able to comment on how much longer (approx.) the shawl could be made with just one extra ball of yarn, and how many extra stitches would have to be cast on. Thank you!
Hi Marianna,
Thanks for reaching out. I’m afraid that it is actually quite difficult for us to calculate this, given that this shawl has such a fairly complex shape. I would suggest doing some experimenting on your own! This pattern works over a multiple of 3 + 1 stitches, so you can cast on more stitches according to that. Then, I’d recommend knitting one full wedge, and weighing the remaining yarn. This will give you a good idea of the yardage it would take to knit one wedge, which you can then multiply by 24 to get the full yardage of the slightly longer shawl. You may need to undo and redo this wedge a few times to find a length and altered cast-on number that work!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you, that makes sense!
Thank you so very much !!
Hello. I have a couple of questions on this pattern. The photos of the pattern appears to look like a stockinette stitch, but the repeats of the pattern are more like a ribbed pattern (k2, p1). Is it intended to be a ribbed stitch? Also, the repeats of the even number rows for 1-6 (k1, p1) are different than the even rows for the wrap rows (p). this creates a slightly different at the beginning of each wedge. Is that the intent? Or have I misread the pattern? Thanks so much.
Hi Brenda,
Thanks for reaching out. This pattern is mainly stockinette stitch, except for a small ribbed/garter stitch border! The only times when you won’t be knitting in stockinette stitch are the first and last 3 stitches of each row. The remainder of each row will be either completely knit or completely purled, depending on what side of the fabric you’re on. I hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Thank-you. I completely misread the pattern and thought that the k1, P1 applied to the entire row! Makes complete sense now.
How I am complicating a simple technique is dismaying but here I go…in substituting German short rows for the wrap & turn at row 9 do I knit to last 2 sts before making the turn? In row 7 I knit to the last 4 sts before turning? You probably answered this already so I apologize if this is so. I never did short rows before and I didn’t like the wrap and turn method so here I am in a quandary about a simple procedure! Think I need a nap. Thank you.
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for writing in. The rule of thumb for substituting German short rows in place of wrap + turn short rows is that you’ll need to knit one additional stitch before making the double stitch. So in the case of Row 7 and Row 9, here’s what they would look like if written for German short rows:
Row 7: K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, wrp-t (see Note).
Row 9: K2, p1, knit to 2 stitches before wrap, wrp-t.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Oh Lili thank you so much for the definitive clarification! It is a simple process and yet I was confused. Really appreciate your prompt help.
Oh well here I am confused again. I was reading a former comment that asked if the only wrap you knit is on row 55. I am doing German short rows and when I reach the “double stitch” I knit that and proceed to the end of the row where I p1 k2. Is this incorrect? Then on to doing the WS row and purling across with of course starting with k1 p1 k1. I really am befuddled.
Correction to what I just wrote, sorry that I am so turned around. In doing the German short row I stop knitting 2 sts before the double stitch, turn the knitting the the WS to make the German short row and then p to the last three sts & k1 p1 k1. When I am back on the RS row I never k the dbl st as have turned the work to the WS and P the row etc. What I cannot envision is how 3 sts remain to the left of the final wrap at row 53. Am I proceeding correctly? This is a novel construction so am having a difficult time imagining the evolution of the pattern.
Ignore former posts. I got it! Had a cup of coffee and untangled myself from confusion. I see how it will unfold. So sorry for contacting you unnecessarily.
Hi Melinda!
We’re so glad you were about to figure this out! We are always here to help if anything else comes up.
All the best,
Margaret
Hi Margaret: thanks for kind reply and how did you note that something else might turn up? Because oh no something else has come up and it’s MY fault for not reading the pattern closely. On row 8 I didn’t just P to the last 3 sts, I K1 P1 and K1 and then started to P, ending with a K1 P1 and K1, not realizing the pattern at row 8 deviates from the established pattern. I read all the comments and no correction for Row 8 exists so I have to rip rip out and start from almost the beginning. Am currently on wedge 2 so it isn’t disasterous, only frustrating. Note to self don’t knit when tired!
Sorry but I have another question. I am starting over again and as I would rather not start at the beginning again here goes…is the set up row done for each wedge? I am assuming not but…? Do all subsequent wedges start at R 1, not with the set-up Row? As ever, thank you.
Hi Melinda,
Thanks for writing in! The setup row will only be worked for the first wedge, all wedges after will begin with row 1.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Hi Gianna: Thank you for reply and clarification. I have learned (yet again) to not knit when sleepy, dozy or otherwise fuddle headed! Looking forward to getting this on my needles again and knitting with a clear head!
I dropped this project to work on others and so am back with more questions, unfortunately. I have knitted and read knitting patterns for years but the instructions for this shawl are proving a challenge, and it is not the most complicated project I have worked on. I am starting to have doubts as to my mental capabilities! Ok – after completing the first set of Rows 1 to 6 the instructions are, “Rows 3-6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times.” 1) Does this mean to work Rows 1 and 2 for a total of 4 rows of knitting before moving on to Row 7 OR 2) Does it mean to work 12 rows before moving on to Row 7? As there is no schematic accompanying this pattern and though I initially thought I was conceptualizing its evolution I now need to double-check my interpretation of the instructions as I don’t want to rip out and start over again. I realize a schematic would probably have to show different stages of the unfolding of the pattern as opposed to one schematic but since the construction is unusual it might prove helpful. As ever your help is much appreciated.
Hi Melinda,
I’m glad to hear that you’ve picked this pattern back up, and I’d be happy to help clarify these instructions! Like you’re thinking, “Rows 3-6: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times” does mean to work Rows 1 and 2 for a total of 4 rows of knitting before moving on to Row 7. Since you’ve already knit through Rows 1 and 2 once, this will total to 6 rows! Here’s all of the rows written out fully, so you can better visualize the progress:
Row 1 (right side): K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
Row 3 (same as Row 1): K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.
Row 4 (same as Row 2): K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
Row 5 (same as Row 1): K2, p1, knit to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.
Row 6 (same as Row 2): K1, p1, k1, purl to last 3 stitches, k1, p1, k1.
I hope this helps you continue along in the shawl!
All the best,
Lili
Dear Lili, thank you for your forebearance with what was be a very basic question regarding interpretation of seemingly simple instructions. I understood how to work each row but what was open to question in my mind was number of times Rows 1 and 2 were to be worked. What is clearer to me is something like “For rows 3-6, repeat rows 1 and 2 (ending with a total of 6 rows from set up row) and then proceed to what is row 7.” In retrospect my confusion confuses me! I was thinking length had to be added by doing rows 1 and 2 more than actually called for as the construction of the garment is initially mystifying. I should add that I tend to pick up knitting at night and I now realize I am not at my sharpest at that time. Thank you for holding my hand through this and now I can proceed but no, maybe I should wait until tomorrow morning after 2 cups of coffee! As ever Purl and you are stellar.
You’re very welcome, Melinda! I’m glad that my explanation cleared up your confusion about the instructions.
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I am struggling with Row 9 “knit to 3 stitches before wrap”. Does the 3 stitches include the wrapped stitch? Or knit to 3 unaltered stitches before the wrapped stitch, then wrap and turn, leaving three stitches in between wraps? I feel from other comments here it must be the latter – knit to 3 unaltered stitches before the wrapped stitch – but I would like to confirm before going too far astray.
Thank you.
Hello again! I found guidance in one reply to a comment that the wrapped sections should look like sections of three stitches with a hole between them 🙂 this is what I have, so I think I’m on the right track 🙂 thank you!
Hello!
I’m glad you were able to find the answer you were looking for! Feel free to reach out again if you have any other questions!
Happy knitting!
Carly
Hello! After a very long time away from knitting, I am going to tackle this pattern. If I wanted to use an all cashmere yarn, what would you suggest? Thank you!
Hi Liza,
Thanks for writing in! I think the Wheelwright Shawl is a great project for getting back in to the swing of knitting! This project would be so gorgeous knitted up in Zageo 6-Ply Cashmere as a substitute for Cashmere Merino Bloom. Zageo 6-Ply is a 100% Mongolian Cashmere yarn that knits up like a dream and is sure to keep you warm!
I would recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your shawl, just to be sure you’re using the right needles to get proper gauge!
Please feel free to reach out with any questions!
Happy knitting!
Carly
Just double-checking that the 3 stitch edge stitches are maintained in Row 8 and dropped in Rows 7 and 9? As ever thank you.
Hi Melinda,
Thanks so much for reaching out!
You are correct that you will not be working the edge stitches like you have done in the previous rows! Instead, starting at row 8, you will be working a wrap and turn at the end of each short row. If you haven’t already, you should check out our helpful Short Rows tutorial!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Carly
Hi Carly. I just checked out the short rows tutorial which addresses the wrap and turn method. I prefer the German short row so assume I just proceed as if I were doing the wrpt at the end of row 8 and at each subsequent short row. I think of the staff as the “Purlettes” ⭐⭐- you are all so helpful and knowledgeable. Thank you and, I appreciate your prompt reply.
Hi Melinda,
Thank you so much for the kind words! We are always happy to help our crafting community!
German short rows instead of the Wrap and Turn method will work perfectly here as well!
Happy Knitting!
Carly