Raised Ridge Wrap
Knitting with a laceweight yarn doesn’t have to be fancy. In fact, it can be totally fancy free. Far from the world of purling two together through the back loop, our Raised Ridge Wrap hardly requires a second thought… but it does whisper beauty!
An exercise in economy, this featherweight wrap is nothing more than stockinette stitch in our Sweetgrass Fine, interrupted every now and then by a slightly weightier garter stitch ridge in our original Sweetgrass.
A blend of organic cotton and superfine alpaca, Sweetgrass’s palette is a range of gentle undyed neutrals. The subtlety lies in using two different shades so that the shifts of color and texture play like ripples in the sand or breezes across a field.
Choose one shade of both yarns, available in five color combos, each as beautiful as nature grew it!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoRaisedRidgeWrap, #PurlSohoSweetgrass, and #PurlSohoSweetgrassFine. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
To make your own Raised Ridge Wrap, you will need…
- Yarn A: 1 skein of Purl Soho’s Sweetgrass, 65% organic cotton and 35% superfine alpaca. Each skein is 437 yards; approximately 280 yards required. We used Buckwheat Beige.
- Yarn B: 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Sweetgrass Fine, 65% organic cotton and 35% superfine alpaca. Each skein is 930 yards; approximately 1197 yards required. We used Rye Flour.
You will also need…
- US 2 (3 mm), circular or straight needles
- US 2, 40-inch circular needles for picking up and knitting the selvages
For inspiration, we also created these other combos…
Top Left: Yarn A is Sweetgrass in Heirloom White; Yarn B is Sweetgrass Fine in Pale Sesame
Top Right: Yarn A is Sweetgrass in Pale Sesame; Yarn B is Sweetgrass Fine in Buckwheat Beige
Bottom Left: Yarn A is Sweetgrass in Rye Flour; Yarn B is Sweetgrass Fine in Walnut Shell
Bottom Right: Yarn A is Sweetgrass in Walnut Shell; Yarn B is Sweetgrass Fine in Beech Bark
Gauge
27 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in stockinette with Yarn B
Size
Finished Dimensions: 18 inches wide x 76 inches long
Notes
Stitch Multiple
This pattern works over any number of stitches.
Picking Up Stitches
For assistance with this technique, please see our tutorial for picking up stitches along a vertical edge within our Picking Up Stitches Tutorial.
Carrying Up Yarn A
When working rows with Yarn B, carry Yarn A up the selvage. To do this, bring the old yarn up from under the new yarn so that A is in front of B. As you knit the first stitch of the row, Yarn B will catch up Yarn A so that it gets carried along until you need it again. At the end, you will pick up and knit along this edge in order to tidy it up, so don’t worry too much about that!
Pattern
With Yarn A and using a basic Long Tail Cast On, cast on 120 stitches.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): With Yarn A, knit to end of row.
**Row 1 (right side): With Yarn B, knit to end of row, carrying up Yarn A with the first stitch (see Note).
Row 2 (wrong side): With Yarn B, purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 four more times.
Rows 3 and 4: With Yarn A, knit to end of row.
Repeat from ** until piece measures 76 inches long, ending with Row 4.
With Yarn A and the right side facing you, bind off knitwise, leaving the final bound off stitch on the needle.
Left Selvage Edge
With Yarn A and the right side facing you, turn the piece 90 degrees clockwise, then pick up and knit along the left selvage edge. Pick up every other stitch along the stockinette sections and one stitch from the garter stripes: 6 stitches per each repeat, approximately 421 total stitches.
Next Row (wrong side): Continuing with Yarn A, knit to end of row.
With Yarn A and the right side facing you, bind off loosely knitwise.
Cut Yarn A.
Right Selvage Edge
With the right side facing you, start at the cast-on edge of the opposite selvage and with Yarn A, pick up and knit as for other side.
Next Row (wrong side): Continuing with Yarn A, knit to end of row.
With Yarn A and the right side facing you, bind off loosely knitwise.
Cut Yarn A.
Weave in the ends and block as desired.
RE: Raised Ridge Wrap
In the instructions for Row 1:
**Row 1 (right side): With Yarn B, knit to end of row, carrying up Yarn B with the first stitch (see Note).
Should that read “carrying up Yarn A”? Or am I totally confused?
Donna
Hi Donna,
Thank you so much for getting in touch and pointing this out! Yes, you should be carrying Yarn A while you are working with yarn B, and the pattern has now been corrected. Great catch!
All the best,
Julianna
I love wrap. Would like to make it for a gift. Is there a blue yarn you might recommend to use as the B color in this Raised Ridge Wrap?
Thank you.
Hi Marilyn
Thanks for writing in! A nice substitute for color B would be the Linen Quill where there are many blue options. This will change the overall texture of the garment a little because of the different fiber content, but it will still be a beautiful addition! Hope this helps!
Happy knitting
Jessica
Hi, thank you very much for all the instructions, the tips, etc.
I would like to know if you send yarn to Chile, SA.
Best regards
Hi Rinna,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, we ship internationally! You can review all of our international shipping rates and policies on our Shipping page.
Best,
Julianna
Why doesn’t this curl on the sides? It is mostly stockinette.
Hi Margaret
That’s a great question! Because this wrap has garter ridges evenly spaced throughout, and the addition of the picked-up garter border added at the end this helps minimize the curling. Also, our sample has been wet blocked which further helps in keeping all the stitches smooth and straight!
Happy knitting
Jessica
I’m interested in the Walnut Shell and beech bark combo but I’m concerned that walnut looks brown while beech bark is gray. Please let me know if that is correct, and if so, would Heirloom White go with beech bark.
Hi Mindy
Thanks for writing in! The Raised Ridge Wrap Bundles are slightly subtle combinations of colors, and all of the colors are undyed, and naturally complement each other. The Beech Bark does have slightly gray undertones. If you substitute the Heirloom White, it will still look beautiful, and the stripes will make a little more of a statement. Just make sure to order 2 skeins of Sweetgrass Fine in your main color, and 1 skein of Sweetgrass for the stripes in your wrap. We can’t wait to see the combination you work up!
Happy knitting
Jessica
i would like to make the wrap but would like shades blue or golden/yellow. what can you substitute ?
Hi Karen,
Great question! Linen Quill comes in many beautiful shades of blue and yellow, and would be an excellent yarn to substitute for Color A. Color B is a little trickier, as we don’t carry many lace weight yarns, but you could knit an extra-luxurious version using Jade Sapphire 2-Ply Cashmere as Color B! Another option would be to continue using Sweetgrass Fine as Color B to create a neutral background for garter ridges in your chosen color of Linen Quill!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
If I wanted to use a DK yarn, can you advise on gauge and needle size?
Hi Linda
Thanks for writing in! I would suggest working a gauge swatch possibly on a US 5-6 needle and see if you are happy with the way it looks. From there you can take your stitches per inch, and multiply that by 18, if you want to keep the original size of the wrap, to determine your cast on number. I hope this helps get you started!
Best
Jessica
yes, perfect. THANKS!
Shouldn’t rows 3 & 4 be numbered 11 & 12 as you have already done 10 rows?
Hi Pam
Thanks for writing in! Rows 3 & 4 could be numbered 11 & 12 as you suggest. This pattern was written to be a 4 row repeat, most patterns are written with slight differences, for designer preference, ease, or format. If it makes more sense to you to renumber the rows, go for it!
Happy knitting
Jessica
Hi,
I’ve started this pattern using straight needles. I’ve been carrying up yarn A, but I’m a little confused – I’m about to knit across with yarn A, but how do I purl back with Yarn B with the tail on the other side?
Thank you,
Julia
Hi Julia
Thanks for writing in! It seems like you may have missed Row 1. After you cast on with yarn A, you will then knit one row, then you will join yarn B and knit a row, and purl back with B. Both yarn A and B will be waiting at the same end. Keep continuing to carry yarn A up along the side while you work the 8 more rows (Repeat Rows 1 and 2 four more times.) with yarn B.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): With Yarn A, knit to end of row.
**Row 1 (right side): With Yarn B, knit to end of row, carrying up Yarn A with the first stitch (see Note).
Row 2 (wrong side): With Yarn B, purl to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 four more times.
Rows 3 and 4: With Yarn A, knit to end of row.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
Jessica
Instead of picking up sts from the long edge, how would it look with a single crochet along that border? Thanks!
Hi Robin,
Great idea! I think a row or two of half double crochets along the edges would be a fantastic (and fast!) way to finish the long edges of this wrap! If you try it, please let us know how it turns out!
Best,
Julianna
Hi!
I am writing from Vienna.
Is this pattern really correct? It does not work.
Do I have to carry the yarn B back also????
Great confusion.
I tried it several times.
Hi Sonja,
Thanks for writing in! We have tested this pattern several times and it should work out as written! Is there a particular row that you are having trouble with? In essence, you will be carrying Yarn A up the side of the work by twisting the two yarns together at the beginning of every right side Color B row, but there is no need to carry up Color B because you only work two rows of Color A at any one time.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Wondering if you think this pattern would work if you made it into a closed loop that could go twice over the head. Does it have enough softness or would it be too rigid do you think. Thanks
Hi Florence,
Thanks for writing in! You could definitely close this to be a cowl that would wrap around your head twice! Our Sweetgrass yarns are very soft so it shouldn’t be rigid at all!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi,
If I want to make a crib blanket in this pattern and guage how many stitches should I cast on ?
Btw, I have been obsessed with your patterns <3
Hi Shouri,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I am so glad to gear that you enjoy out patterns! If you would like to convert this into a crib size (28″ x 42″) blanket I would recommend casting on 189 stitches and working till it measures 42″! I calculated this cast on # based on the written gauge so I do also recommend working a gauge swatch before you begin to make sure your gauge is consistent with the pattern!
All the best,
Gianna
Hello, I am relatively new to knitting. I love this pattern but am sensitive to a wide variety of different types of yarns. Can I knit this in one of the cotton, linen, or silk yarns? Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!
Hi Jacqueline,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes this can absolutely be made with a cotton, linen, or silk yarn! We used a fingering weight and lace weight, so for the fingering weight yarn you could use our Cattil Silk, Burnish (100% rayon from bamboo), Spectrum Silk or even Field Linen! Then for the lace weight you could then use our Mineral Silk or HABU TEXTILES Silk Wrap Paper N-94! I think any of these yarns would make an excellent combination! I do recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning with the yarn you choose to insure that you are consistent with the pattern or if you will need to make any slight adjustments.
I hope this helps and please let us know what you end up choosing and how it turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
2 Questions:
1) Sweetgrass Superfine recommended for color B seems very light. Is this yarn doubled in the pattern? Or used as a single strand.
2) On page 8 the instructions for Row 1 say (see note); however, I don’t see a note to reference anywhere in the pattern. What is the note?
Hi Diane,
Thanks for reaching out! You will only be using a single strand of the Sweetgrass fine, since it is a lace weight yarn it is very fine but this creates the beautiful effect of the wrap! The notes section is located right above the pattern and right below the size section labeled NOTES, there we have several notes to help you with the pattern!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Hi, what are the final dimensions of yours after blocking please? Many thanks, Kate
Hi Kate,
Thanks for reaching out! The Finished Dimensions of the Raised Ridge Wrap after blocking are 18 inches wide x 76 inches long!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Oh – I know 76 inches is the length you are instructed to knit to – I presumed it blocked to somewhat longer and I was just curious what your sample had blocked to – I didn’t intend to trouble you to repeat the information in the pattern! Thanks anyway. Kate
Thanks for the follow up! We don’t officially list it anywhere for future reference, I wanted to let you know that all of our gauge recommendations and finished dimensions come from post-blocked results. It is interesting that you’re meant to work to 76 inches like you said and we list 76 as the finished dimensions. This yarn has a tendency to drape quite a bit once blocked but it looks like it stretched more width wise than lengthwise in this case. I’m glad you asked so we could confirm that!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Hi!
I’m about ready to start this pattern as a somewhat novice knitter and need some clarification. Is this to be knit on straight needles and the circular ones used for the selvages at the end? And, I’m confused on how to carry up yarn A. Not clear on what that means exactly. Thanks for the help!
Hi Julie,
Thanks for reaching out. The choice of circular or straight needles for the main body of the wrap is up to you! Generally, circular needles are used when there are too many stitches to fit on the length of a straight needle, and some knitters like to use them regardless. That’s also why you’ll need 40″ circular needles for picking up the selvage stitches. Since you’ll have so many stitches on your needles at once, you’ll need a really long circular needle to hold them all!
In answer to your question about carrying up the yarn, that’s a technique that’s used to avoid having to cut Yarn A every time you need to make a stripe. When you encounter Yarn A and B at the same place at the beginning of a row (this will happen on Row 1, in this case), bring the old yarn up from under the new yarn so that A is in front of B. As you knit the first stitch of the row, Yarn B will catch up Yarn A so that it gets carried along until you need it again.
I hope this helps clarify things, and happy knitting!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks, Lili. Just a wee bit more clarification needed, sorry. So, which is the “old yarn” and which is the “new yarn”? And, “bring the old yarn up from under the new yarn…” not so sure on how exactly to do that. Is there a video tutorial some where? Ugh. 🤦♀️
Hi Julie,
The “old yarn” is referring to Yarn A, and the “new yarn” is yarn B! When you bring Yarn A up, you’ll essentially want Yarn B to be wrapped around it, so that it holds Yarn A in place. Unfortunately, we do not have a video tutorial on this technique, but I promise that it will make more sense when you begin the project! It’s often easier to envision a technique with the yarn in your hands.
All the best,
Lili