If you think knitting is all about firesides and weighty wool, you’re missing out on hammocks and feather-light fibers. Warm-weather knitting is half the fun, and our easy, breezy Lovely Lightweight Tee is the prefect project for knitting right through the heat!
A really fun and approachable knit, our Lovely Lightweight Tee introduces our readers to something potentially new: an insanely easy approach to short rows called German Short Rows. We use them to create this tee’s slooped hemlines, neckline, and sleeve caps. Scared? Our new video tutorial will certainly allay those fears and make you wonder why you ever wrapped and turned!
Other than the German Short Rows, the construction is nothing new. A simple bottom-up piece worked in the round to the underarms, then flat for the front and back. You’ll leave the bateau neckline as is, sew the shoulders together, then pick up and knit the cap sleeves in the round, working a pretty decrease detail at the edge to keep those little sleeves from fluttering!
Cattail Silk palette. This perfectly warm-weather 100% silk yarn is now in 13 additional gorgeous colors, including this Flower Field Charcoal, a very unbasic basic. Oh, and you’ll only need 2, 3, or 4 skeins. What?! Yup! So, grab a lemonade and cast on!
Designed for Purl Soho by Adam Aronowitz
MATERIALS
- 2 (2, 2, 3) (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins of Purl Soho’s Cattail Silk, 100% silk. Each skein is approximately 618 yards/100 grams; approximately 905 (1020, 1195, 1310) (1505, 1635, 1840, 1990) yards required. We used the color Flower Field Charcoal.
- US 4, 32- or 40-inch circular needles
- US 4, 16-inch circular needles
- A set of US 4 double pointed needles
- Removable stitch markers
- Stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Lovely Lightweight Tee Pattern
GAUGE
24 stitches and 40 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
41 (45, 49, 53) (57, 61, 65, 69)
To fit actual chest circumference of 29–33 (33–37, 37–41, 41–45) (45–49, 49–53, 53–57, 57–61) inches, with 8–12 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 41 (45, 49, 53) (57, 61, 65, 69) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 22½ (23, 24½, 25) (26¾, 27¼, 28¾, 29¼) inches
SAMPLE: The sweater pictured here is size 41, worn with 8 inches of ease.
PATTERN
The Lovely Lightweight Tee Pattern is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
PRINT
Hi There!
I love this tee and the colors of cattail silk. Can you do the adaptation for longer sleeves? I would like at least an elbow length sleeve to cover a scar.
Thank you
Hi Lorna,
Thank you so much for the kind words and for writing in! Although we don’t include instructions for knitting a longer sleeve in the pattern, it should be fairly easy to lengthen the sleeves. After picking up the stitches for the sleeve, you will need to work the “Shape Sleeve Cap” instructions as written, but could then continue knitting the sleeve to whatever length you like. Best of all, because of the construction of the sleeve, you could even try on the sleeve as you go to make sure it is the length you want!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
This pattern and yarn combo are so lovely! Can you share your recommendation on how to care for garments knit from Cattail Silk? Would it fare ok on gentle/cold water in the washing machine?
Hi Helen,
Thank you so much for your kind words! The care instructions for Cattail Silk are to machine wash cold, tumble dry low. I would err on the gentle or handwash cyle!
Best,
Cassy
Are there any directions for longer sleeves? I hate capped sleeves and have never made a sweater before.
Hi Jackie,
Thanks for reaching out! Although we don’t include instructions for knitting a longer sleeve in the pattern, it should be fairly easy to lengthen the sleeves. After picking up the stitches for the sleeve, you will need to work the “Shape Sleeve Cap” instructions as written, but could then continue knitting the sleeve to whatever length you like. Best of all, because of the construction of the sleeve, you could even try on the sleeve as you go to make sure it is the length you want!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello
Is this knit with two strands of cattail held together? Since a skein has 600 yards, one skein seems like I’m might have ample yardage for a tee… but this is laceweight, so perhaps you hold two strands together?
I’m asking because I’d like to determine if I might make this with another laceweight yarn I already own.
Thanks.
Hi Beverley,
Great question! Cattail Silk is actually a fingering weight yarn, and we did use it held single on a US 4 for this sweater. In the Materials section above, you can see the exact yardage for each size, and even the smallest size does take 900 yards. If you are planning on substituting a laceweight yarn, I would definitely recommend knitting a swatch to see if it knits up to the same gauge as Cattail Silk.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I love the elegant simplicity of your patterns…this is no exception. Although not a new knitter, I am unaccustomed to knitting garments other than socks. Is this a pattern suitable to an inexperienced knitter like me? Thanks!
Hi Tami,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! I would consider this an advanced beginner to intermediate level sweater. A good portion of the sweater is simple stockinette stitch in the round, but the hem and neckline are shaped with quite a few German Short Rows. You may be familiar with them from knitting socks, but either way, with our new tutorial, they should be quite easy to learn if you have never done them before! You will also have to sew two small seams and pick up stitches for the sleeves, both of which are techniques you can find on our Tutorials page. I do think this is a great option for a first sweater, and we are always here to help if you run into any problems!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have been knitting awhile, but i have not knit a sweater before. Do you believe it would be okay to start with this pattern. It is a beautiful sweater and the yarn devine. Thank you
Hi Kathleen,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! I would consider this an advanced beginner to intermediate level sweater. A good portion of the sweater is simple stockinette stitch in the round, but the hem and neckline are shaped with quite a few German Short Rows. However, with our new tutorial, they should be quite easy to learn if you have never done them before! You will also have to sew two small seams and pick up stitches for the sleeves, both of which are techniques you can find on our Tutorials page. I do think this is a great option for a first sweater, and we are always here to help if you run into any problems!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi,
What would it take to make the neckline with a slight scoop, instead of the boat neck?
Thanks,
Denise
Hello Denise,
Thanks for reaching out! The neck is shaped using German Short Rows so it would require some experimentation to adjust the angle of the slop of the neck. Not impossible, but will require some work!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Hello. Thanks for another lovely pattern. I have some Linen Twill that needs a project. Would this pattern work with this yarn. Could I use the same needle sizes.
Thank you.
Julie
Hello Julie,
Thanks for writing! Linen Quill would be a beautiful substitution for this pattern,
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
This is a lovely pattern … which I just purchased! Have not done German Short Rows before, but am a fairly experienced knitter so, with your explanation, I don’t see a problem. I do wonder, however, about the 8″ of positive ease. This would probably be appropriate for a “heavy” person …. but I’m pretty slender (size 8 max) so thinking that much ease might be like a “sack”. SO… will it work to make the smallest size with a guage to make it come out to about say 36″ around? I’ve done stuff like this before and it worked but just not sure with this pattern. Would appreciate your input! Thanks, Ginny Sandel
Hi Ginny,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help! We think that drape of the fabric here makes the 8 inches of positive ease work very well and look quite smart on both larger and smaller frames. Our sample is knit in the smallest size (41 inches) and our model has a chest circumference of 33 inches for 8 inches of ease.
Working the pattern at a smaller gauge would create a fabric that is tighter and has less drape than you see here. Please note that this would also make the neck and arms quite a bit smaller as well and there is less ease in these parts of the sweater than in the body and this could create some fit issues.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, what a beautiful pattern, I’d love to try it!
My concern is using silk yarn, as I don’t like how it stretches out and loses it’s shape while wearing.
Can you please recommend a yarn that will be cool for hot weather, have a nice drape, and keep its shape?
Much appreciated, I’ve just recently found your website and WOW, it’s great!
-Sue
Hello Sue,
Thank you for reaching out! I think this Tee would be lovely in either our Linen Quill or our Field Linen.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I knitted the swatch using cattail silk and the size 4 US needles. My 40 rows = 4 in but my 24 stitches seem a bit shorter than 4 inches. Also, I feel like I can see in between the stitches more than the sample garment. I’m wondering if my gauge is ok and I can proceed to start the garment.
Hello Cristina,
These are great questions! I wouldn’t worry to much about it being too open and focus on your gauge. How close to 1″ is your 6 stitches?
I hope I can help!
Best,
Marilla
What is your suggested cast on for this garment? I did my swatch with a long tail cast on
Hello Cristina,
Thank you for reaching out! I would reccomend doing a long tail cast on, so you are right on track!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
Shouldn’t the gauge swatch be knit in the round since that garment is knit in the round? I just wound that Cattail Silk and am ready to swatch but don’t want to waste time searching flat if that patter forgot to include that it needs to be knit in the round to get gauge.
Hello Suzy,
Thank you for reaching out and for the great suggestion! Knitting your swatch in the round will give you the most accurate stitch gauge.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I’m enjoying this pattern very much and am about to finish the lower body and start shaping the armholes. I can’t see on the pattern where we transition to the shorter circular needles. Shall we assume that it’s at that point, where we’re working on front and back separately?
Hi Robert,
Thanks for reaching out! You actually will not need the shorter circular needles until you are picking up the sleeve stitches – for the divided front and back, you can continue using the longer circular needle.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Thanks, Julianna. It became obvious once I got there! Almost done. What a beautiful pattern.
Can this t-shirt be knitted in the new bamboo yarn? Would three skeins be sufficient or would it require four?
Thx,
B
Hi Britta,
Thanks for reaching out! Although you should knit a gauge swatch to be sure, I think Burnish would be an excellent yarn to substitute for this top! Due to the difference in yardage between Cattail Silk and Burnish, you would need 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins of Burnish for each size.
Happy knitting, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I am in the process of knitting this tee – the hem is rolling up. I get stockinette rolls but your isn’t. Why?
Hello Jo-Ann,
Thank you for reaching out! Blocking your finished tee is the best way to prevent curling.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I too am frustrated by curling hems. I note that several of your patterns – Incline Decline Cardigan, Lovely Lightweight Tee, and Contour Tee – all seem to have very flat edges. In my experience, it is very difficult to eliminate the roll associated with stockinette. I have finished the short row hem on the Lightweight Tee but am wondering if I should continue as the roll is so strong and unattractive.
Judy
Hi Judy
Thanks for reaching out! Our Incline Decline Cardigan is knit in garter stitch which does not roll up, but for the other projects you mention, although stockinette stitch will always roll or curl up to some degree, different fibers will behave differently and some are more suited to stockinette without an edge to help it lay flat. Silk and bamboo rayon, such as our Cattail Silk and Burnish yarns, are very drapey fibers that are much more inclined to lay or block flat without any special treatment. We used these yarns for the Lovely Lightweight Tee and Contour Tee and as you can see they do block out quite well! Another factor that helps is knitting at a slightly looser gauge, as more tightly knit fabrics will roll much more strongly. It is still important to knit at the correct gauge for the pattern to make sure your garment will fit, but if you are substituting a different yarn, you will need to select a yarn that results in both the correct gauge and a somewhat airy fabric. If you are substituting a different yarn or fiber, I would recommend knitting your gauge swatch in stockinette without any edging and wet blocking it so you can see how it will work in the finished garment.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi there, I’m really enjoying making this pattern! Possibly a silly question, but if I want to lengthen the top by a couple of inches, is it best to add those to the main body (knit in the round) or to the front and back (knit flat)?
Thanks for your lovely pattern,
Audra
Hello Audra,
Thank you for reaching out! To lengthen this tee, I would reccomend adding fabric to the body portion of this tee.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Wonderful, thanks Marilla 🙂
Having a problem with the setup row to shape the right neckline and shoulder. The pattern says to place 4 markers, but that divides the stitches into 5 sections. Are the first set of stitches (K10), or the second set of stitches (k20), for the left shoulder? If there are 5 sections, what is the middle section?
Thanks for your help.
Hi Carol,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that you will have five sections after placing the markers. Assuming you are knitting the smallest size, the first 10 stitches are the left shoulder, the next 20 stitches are the left neckline, the center 17 stitches will be the center back neck, the next 20 stitches are the right neckline, and the last 10 stitches are the right shoulder.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello Juliana,
I have read that it was possible to knit that tee with longer sleeves. Do you think that I should make some decreases? As it is a Christmas gift (a surprise!), it will not be possible for my daughter to try it on before it is finished.
Thank you!
Louise
Hi Louise,
Thanks for writing in! This is entirely up to you! If you do not work any decreases the sleeves will turn out loose and wide and have a somewhat bell shaped appearance. If you prefer a more tapered sleeve, then I would suggest decreasing two stitches every one to two inches. Our Lightweight Raglan Pullover may help you plan out the decreases, though you will have to reverse the shaping since the sleeves are knit from the bottom up for that sweater rather than from the top down.
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Thank you so much!
Louise
Hi,
I am about to start the underarms and I am confused about the markers. I have two markers – one for right side and one for left. The instructions for the underarms references three markers.
Thank you,
Heather
Hello Heather,
Thank you for reaching out! You are exactly right, you should have two makers before starting your “UNDERARMS.” After knitting to 9 stitches before your first maker and then doing your bind off, you then knit to your next marker where you not only bind off for your other underarm but you also put your back stitches on a holder. There is not a third marker.
I hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions!
Best,
Marilla
I have not knit a sweater before but would love to try. Would this be a good first project, or do you have a suggestion for a newbie…a baby sweater for baby steps perhaps?
Hi Deborah,
Thanks for reaching out, and how exciting to start your first sweater! I do think this could be a great choice! This top includes basic stitches, increases and decreases, knitting in the round, German short rows, and picking up stitches, and the pattern links all of these to our handy tutorials. Depending on your prior knitting experience, you may have already done many or all of these techniques before! I hope you feel encouraged to give it a try, and if you run into any questions, we are always here to help!
Best,
Julianna
Hello there – could I use Sweetgrass yarn to make this lightweight tee, if so yes what gauge would i use and size needles.
Gwyneth
Hi Gwyneth!
Thanks for reaching out! The Lovely Light Weight Tee uses Cattail Silk on size 4 needles to get a gauge of 6 stitches per inch. While the recommended needle size for Sweetgrass is a size 2 or 3, and slightly more stitches per inch, I do think that Sweetgrass would work up beautifully! As for any yarn substitution, I would do a gauge swatch to really take a look at the fabric created with Sweetgrasss at that gauge, but I think you’ve got a great idea here!
Happy Knitting!
Cassandra
I was thinking of sweetgrass not the new sweetgrass fine or is it the same?
Hi Gwyneth!
I think that Sweetgrass would make a lovely substitution for this Lovely Lightweight Tee! Sweetgrass Fine is quite a bit thinner, and would give you a very sheer fabric at the recommended gauge for the project.
Best,
Cassandra
I’m looking for a boatneck t-shirt pattern that I can knit in breton-inspired stripes. This looks like a great candidate…except for the sleeve decreases and maybe also the hem. What are your thoughts on doing this in stripes? Thanks!!
Hi Daphne,
Thank you for writing in! What a cool idea to knit this in stripes, though I see your concerns about the shaping in those areas of the sleeves and hem. A great option would be to stripe only in the torso, after the hem shaping and up to the beginning of the armhole shaping, just above the bust- I see this type of Breton-inspired stripe often in contemporary fashion. We also have a Striped Spring Shirt that sounds just like what you’re looking for! This pattern could be easily modified to have shorter sleeves or work for other types of yarn. I hope this helps!
Happy knitting!
Gaby
I am having trouble with the short rows of the hem I do not have enough stitches to fit the number of the repeats ie Rows 3/4 repeated 4 more times =5repeats & rows 5/6 repeated 2 more times =3repeats What am I doing wrong ? Help
Hi Deidre,
Thank you for writing in! It’s hard to know exactly where the trouble is without seeing your knitting, but I’ll do my best to help. In this shaping section, rather than working in the round you will be knitting back and forth across the center of the front hem, working a few more stitches every row. Using the first size as an example, Rows 1 & 2 will have you K78, make a double stitch, turn, p32, and make a double stitch; these rows establish 46 central stitches with a double stitch at either end. The rest of the pattern will have you working a few stitches more in each row, so that by repeating rows 3 & 4 and 5 & 6 you eventually have worked back and forth across the entire 123 stitches on the front side. We also have a tutorial on German Short Rows (called double stitches in this pattern) to help you visualize how they work. I hope this helps!
Best,
Gaby
Hello. I’m currently in the middle of this lovely pattern and I also have a question on the neckline and shoulder shaping.
The pattern has you place two markers per side but the shaping then only seems to reference the neckline marker and not the shoulder marker. So I’m wondering if I’m reading it right.
On ‘right neckline + shoulder shaping’ row 6, where it says “knit to last x stitches,” is that referencing the last x stitches in the row or the last x stitches before that shoulder marker? Otherwise, I can’t figure out what the shoulder marker is for.
Hope this question makes sense. Many thanks.
Hi Sadie,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct that you will not be using the shoulder marker for any shaping, and on Show Row 6, you will be knitting past the shoulder marker and working the double stitch the indicated number of stitches away from the end of the row. The designer intended this second marker to help keep track of which stitches will be worked into the shoulder seam and which will be part of the neckline, but since the marker isn’t referenced again in this part of the pattern, we can certainly see how this might cause some confusion! I hope that clears things up, and I’ll pass your feedback along to the design team so we can consider editing this line for future versions of the pattern!
All the best,
Julianna
I am at the point of binding off after finishing both shoulders on the front of the sweater. I skipped ahead to see how the front and back are attached. I would prefer to use a 3 needle bind off instead of seaming, but the pattern does not say how many stitches on each side are sewn together. It says to line up the front and back markers and seam together. Can you please tell me approximately how many stitches are used to seam the shoulders together.
Hi Stacy,
Thanks for reaching out! Each shoulder will be 10 (12, 14, 16) (18, 20, 20, 22) stitches.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
I noticed that the armhole length is not the same for front and back. Is this correct?
Hi Lyn,
Thanks for reaching out! The overall length of the armholes will end up the same for the front and back of this top; however, since the front neckline is lower than the back, you will start working the neck shaping when the front armhole is shorter than the back. Once you complete all the shaping, however, they should be the same length!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna