Stitch Block Cowl
Knitters who have made their fair share of garter stitch scarves, ribbed hats and stockinette sweaters, will understand the hankering to shake things up a bit. I love the rhythm and certainty of the basic stitches, but every now and then I relish the challenge of stitch patterns that unfold in surprising ways, that teach me yet something else about the wondrous potential of knits and purls!
I’ve done a lot of knitting in my life, so much that I sometimes wonder if there are any stones left unturned, but this Stitch Block Cowl took me into new terrain. I’ve knit colorwork and I’ve knit “in the row below”, but I’ve never done the two together. It’s terrifically easy and proves, once again, that knitting is inexhaustibly interesting.
Each of the three stitch patterns in our Stitch Block Cowl employ this simple technique of knitting stitches in the row below (don’t worry, we explain what that means in the pattern with photos and everything!). This is ultimately a lot like slipping stitches and has the same effect of creating a very cozy fabric with a whole lot of squish and depth. Add to that the remarkably soft merinos of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist and Madelinetosh’s Tosh Merino and you’ve got one voluptuous cowl!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Ready to take your own journey into uncharted knitting territory? Make sure you pack materials to knit your very own Purl Soho’s Stitch Block Cowl, in this warm and sunny Yellow or any other of our pretty palettes. And don’t forget to send a postcard! -Whitney
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoStitchBlockCowl, and #PurlSohoWorstedTwist. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
To knit your own Stitch Block Cowl, you will need five skeins in the following breakdown…
- Color A: 3 skeins of Purl Soho’s Worsted Twist, 100% merino wool. Each skein is 164 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 492 yards required.
- Color B: 1 skein of Worsted Twist; approximately 164 yards required.
- Color C: 1 skein of Madelinetosh’s Tosh Merino, 100% superwash merino. Each skein is 210 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 60 yards required.
You will also need…
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 24-inch circular needles (You need a circular needle because one of the stitch patterns requires you to slide the stitches from one of the needle to the other.)
The eight colorways are, clockwise from the top left corner…
Yellow
- Color A: Worsted Twist, Heirloom White
- Color B: Worsted Twist, Yellow Yellow
- Color C: Tosh Merino, Candlewick
Oatmeal
- Color A: Worsted Twist, Heirloom White
- Color B: Worsted Twist, Sea Salt
- Color C: Tosh Merino, Weathered Frame
Pink
- Color A: Worsted Twist, Heirloom White
- Color B: Worsted Twist, Super Pink
- Color C: Tosh Merino, Pop Rocks
Navy
- Color A: Worsted Twist, Heirloom White
- Color B: Worsted Twist, Timeless Navy
- Color C: Tosh Merino, Charcoal
Aegean
- Color A: Worsted Twist, Heirloom White
- Color B: Worsted Twist, Peacock Blue
- Color C: Tosh Merino, Esoteric
Aqua
- Color A: Worsted Twist, Heirloom White
- Color B: Worsted Twist, Dragonfly
- Color C: Tosh Merino, Oceana
Pale Blue
- Color A: Worsted Twist, Heirloom White
- Color B: Worsted Twist, Ice Blue
- Color C: Tosh Merino, Well Water
Gray
- Color A: Worsted Twist, Heirloom White
- Color B: Worsted Twist, Oyster Gray
- Color C: Tosh Merino, Whiskers
Shop our wonderful collection of aran + worsted-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
5 stitches = 1 inch in garter stitch, using the Color A.
4 stitches = 1 inch in any of the three stitch patterns.
Size
Finished Dimensions: 12¾ inches wide by 60 inches around
NOTE: To change the width of the finished cowl, cast on any odd number and follow the directions as written.
Note
All three of these stitch patterns use the technique of “knitting into the row below.” Here’s how to do it…
Insert the right needle into the center of the stitch below the first stitch on the left needle. The place to insert the right needle is indicated below by the arrow.
And here is the needle going into that place…
Now knit as normal, bringing the working yarn around the right needle in a counter clockwise direction and pulling through a stitch. When you allow the stitch to fall off the left needle, it will actually be two stitches: the one from the previous row and the one from the row before that. It may feel like you’re doing something dreadfully wrong, but if you’ve properly inserted the right needle, then all will be well!
Pattern
Block #1, Rambler Pattern
Here’s the right side of the finished Rambler Pattern:
And here’s the wrong side:
With Color A, use a Provisional Cast On to cast on 51 stitches. (Why a provisional cast on? So that at the end of the project you can graft together the two ends, avoiding a seam. However, if you find a Provisional Cast On a bit overwhelming, then just use a regular long tail cast on, and when you’re done, you can sew the two ends together. Your cowl will still be beautiful!)
Row 1 (wrong side [ws]): K2, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2 (right side [rs]): K1, *k1 in the row below, p1, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k1 into row below, k1. (See Pattern Note, above, for “k1 in the row below” instructions.)
Rows 3-8: Repeat Rows 1 and 2 three more times.
Row 9 (ws): K1, *p1, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 10 (rs): K1, *p1, k1 in the row below, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
Rows 11-16: Repeat Rows 9 and 10 three more times.
Repeat Rows 1-16 until piece measures 20 inches from cast on edge, ending with Row 14.
Block #2, Checked Rose Fabric
Here’s the right side of finished Checked Rose Fabric:
And here’s the wrong side:
Row 1 (ws): With Color A, k1, *k1 in the row below, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (rs): With Color A, k2, *k1 in the row below, k1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 3 (ws): With Color B, repeat Row 1. Do not turn the work at the end of the row.
Row 4 (ws): Keeping the wrong side of the work facing you, slide the stitches to the right end of the needle and with Color A, repeat Row 2. Turn the work.
Row 5 (rs): With Color A, repeat Row 1. Do not turn the work.
Row 6 (rs): Keeping the right side of the work facing you, slide the stitches to the right end of the needle and with Color B, repeat Row 2. Turn the work.
Repeat Rows 1-6 until piece measures 40 inches from cast on edge, ending with Row 5.
Block #3, English Rose Tweed
Here’s the right side of finished English Rose Tweed:
And here’s the wrong side:
Set-Up Row (ws): With Color A, k1, knit into front and back, knit to end of row. (52 stitches)
Row 1 (rs): With Color B, k1, *p1, k1 in the row below, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 2 (ws): With Color B, knit.
Row 3: With Color C, k1, *k1 in the row below, p1, repeat from * to last stitch, k1.
Row 4: With Color C, knit.
Rows 5 and 6: With Color A, repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Rows 7 and 8: With Color B, repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Rows 9 and 10: With Color C, repeat Rows 1 and 2.
Rows 11 and 12: With Color A, repeat Rows 3 and 4.
Repeat Rows 1-12 until piece measures 60 inches from cast on edge,…
If You Used a Provisional Cast On
…ending with Row 4.
Next Row (rs): With Color A, k1, *p1, k1 in the row below, repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. (51 stitches)
Cut all the yarns, leaving a 32-inch Color A tail.
Put the Provisional Cast On stitches onto a second (preferably smaller) needle.
Thread the Color A tail onto a tapestry needle. With wrong sides together (being careful to not twist the cowl), hold the two circular needles parallel to each other and use the Kitchener Stitch to graft together the cowl’s two ends.
If You Used a Long Tail Cast On
…ending with Row 5.
Next Row (ws): With Color A, bind off in purl.
Cut all the yarns, leaving a 32-inch Color A tail.
Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle and with wrong sides together and making sure the cowl isn’t twisted, sew together the two ends. Sew under one cast on stitch and then across under a bind off stitch, continuing back and forth until you’re done!
Either Way…
Weave in the remaining ends and gently block your cowl, if desired. Then wrap yourself up!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Beautiful! I am always amazed at the many beautiful adaptations of knit and purl! Can't wait to try!
Thank you for sharing this pattern, its beautiful. I would love to make this cowl, as soon as I finish a few of my WIPs…
Beautiful! I love all three color combinations.
Devine! Thanks fro the pattern and great photos.
Sheila
This is gorgeous! Looking forward to casting on; I have some yarn that needs an interesting pattern 🙂
What a wonderful design! I hope you can answer my question: Do you recommend picking up the dropped stitches with their k sts on the return row (the row after knitting the k1b rows) in these stitch patterns? Thanks so much for your help!
Would be great to take a weekend class on these techniques. Any chance?
LOVE the pattern!! Could I substitute Purl Soho worsted Twist for the Tosh merino? would I need 2 skeins not one?
thanks!
I cannot wait to spend my weekend working on this! Thank you for the inspiration!
Hi, maybe my English isn't good enought to understand well the pattern, but why are you talking about wrong and right side if you use circular needles?
Thanks
Hi Batu-
This pattern is not knit in the round. It is knit straight and then sewn together at the end. We use circular needles to knit almost everything because we find them easiest to use, but in this case you also have to use them because there is one stitch pattern here that requires you to slide the stitches from one of the needle to the other. But for the other two stitch patterns you will be using the circular needles just as you would straight needles.
Thank you!
Molly
Again, another beautiful pattern. You are not doing any good to my Ravelry queue….
Wow! Absolutely stunning.
I really love this pattern but I guess I am just beig dense. I cant figure out how to do these stitches If I insert my needle and come out with a stitch as you show for pattern one what happens to the stitch just to the right ofcwhere I insert my needle? Is that the one I purl? Amy chance of gettimg a short video oosted of how to do these stitches?
thanks a lot ! It is gorgeous !!!
Love this! Such pretty stitch patterns ans something new to try!
Hi. I have stayed to make this with different yarn. I was wondering what to do with the stitch on the needle after you do the knit in row below. Thank you very much!
All three fabrics are so beautiful they almost deserve to become 3 separate scarves! If I wanted to use the rose check pattern exclusively, would I begin by doing the last row of the rambler pattern then starting Row 1 (ws) of the rose check? Thanks !
Hi Islington Thorpe,
Although there may be stitch patterns that require you to do that, these don't. Here, you just knit through the stitch from the row below and it catches the stitch from the last row, so actually no stitches are literally "dropped".
I hope this clarifies the process for you. Please let us know if you have any other questions and thanks for this one!
Whitney
Hi Kim,
Sure! Since you only use about 55 yards of Color C, one skein of Worsted Twist would be plenty.
Thanks for your question and please us know if you have more!
Whitney
Do you have a yardage estimate for Colors A and B? You note Color C only needs 55 yds. Am delving into stash to get started!
Fantastic cowl, so creative! I've always loved the style and simplicity of your knits. Just one question: does the pattern fully use up all five skeins of yarn, or are there significant leftovers? Thanks!
Hello! I was wondering if you could place the approximate amount of yardage used for each color in this scarf? I would like to use some leftovers if possible…
Looks like the total is about 650-670 yards according to Ravelry
And Color C uses 55 yards.
What about Color B and Color A?
Beautiful ! Can't wait to 'send' it to my sister–it's she who knits. I know that soon I will be the lucky recipient of this lovely cowl. Thank you.
I am absolutely in love with this and will be buying the yarn as soon as I can. This is stunning!!!
I do have a question though, and it's a pretty basic question. I've only ever knit two scarves (the first was from the Learn to Knit kit you guys sell) so I apologize for the beginners confusion. Do you cut the yarn for each color change and then have all those tails to weave in? Or is there some easy method for leaving it attached so you only have tails to weave in for each color block?
Thanks for the help!!
I LOVE this scarf!! Joining the three fabrics into one scarf really makes for a beautiful accessory! The english rose tweed is my favorite 😉
Can you give yardage needed of each color? Since other brand skeins come in different yardage. Thanks in advance!
I don't want to make a cowl but use these stitches for a throw/afghan. So beautiful.
I can't wait to try this new pattern. You never cease to amaze me with your beautiful ideas. I'm in knitter's heaven with this one.
This is beautiful. Would love to see a photo of the entire thing laid out, to get a sense of size, depth, how the patterns flow into one another. Thanks for another gorgeous project!
This is gorgeous! I've been in a knitting rut for a loooong time. Haven't found inspiration or project that gets me excited when I first learned to knit. Can't wait to start on this — this IS the project I'm looking for!
This is truly lovely!! I am anxious to purchase this kit and make! Thank you!
This is absolutely gorgeous and I can't wait to use these stitch patterns. Could you suggest some yarn to make this cowl for spring/summer? Would a cotton or something lighter weight work ?
Thanks
Charlotte
Just ordered the kit and wondering if the pattern will be included? So hard to print off this blog unless one wants all the illustrations (which are always lovely).
Hi Pat-
The pattern is not included in the kit, just the materials. To print without all the photos we recommend copying and pasting the text (and whatever photos you need) into a word or text doc and printing from there.
Thanks so much for getting in touch!
Molly
I think I'll use pink and red as my contrast colors. A valentine scarf!
Hi everyone who wonders about yardage,
Here's the breakdown: Color A uses about 450 yards; Color B about 160 yards and Color C about 55 yards.
I hope this helps with all of your plans and thanks for asking!
Whitney
Hi Becky,
There isn't a stitch to the right of the one where you insert a needle, but there is a stitch ON TOP of the one where you insert your needle, and that one you simple let fall off the left needle. As I mention in the pattern, this may feel a little alarming, but it's perfectly safe! And the stitch to purl is the next one on the left needle, as usual.
We don't have any plans for a video tutorial of this technique yet, although, of course, we'll see how many requests we get!
Keep trying; it may not be as complicated as you think! Please let us know if you have any more questions and thanks for this one!
Whitney
Hi Sofia,
After you inserted the needle into the stitch in the row below, did you knit it? As I say in the Pattern Note, you should knit as normal, bringing the working yarn around the right needle in a counter clockwise direction and pulling through a stitch. When you allow the stitch to fall off the left needle, it will actually be two stitches: the one from the previous row and the one from the row before that.
So, the short answer to your question is you should knit it and let it fall off the left needle!
I hope this gets you going. If not, please let us know and we'll help some more! Thanks for asking!
Whitney
Hi Ariadne,
You end up with about a quarter of the third Color A skein left; almost no Color B, and about 3/4 of the Color C skein. Here is the breakdown of actual yardage used: Color A about 450 yards; Color B about 160 yards and Color C about 55 yards.
Thanks for your question and good luck with whatever plans you have up your sleeve!
Whitney
that is STUNNING!!! i LOVE it!! wow.
This is a beautiful pattern. any chance the store will offer this as a class?!
Pretty please: video tutorial would make it less daunting to give this a go!
Hi Jennifer G,
Excellent question! You do NOT cut the yarn each time you use a different color. Instead, you just drop the yarn when you're done with it and pick it up again the next time you need it. This is called "carrying" the yarns. It's very easy, just make sure you don't tug the yarns too tightly up the selvedge because that will give you a taut edge. Also, you should consistently carry the new yarn in front of the old yarn for a neat look.
Thanks for asking and good luck!
Whitney
Hi Charlotte,
A perfect substitute cotton would be Blue Sky's Worsted Cotton (https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/721-Blue-Sky-Worsted-Cotton ). It is about the same gauge as the Worsted Twist (maybe a needle size thicker) and is super soft and cozy.
If you'd like to go with something thinner in a summertime fiber, consider also Blue Sky's Skinny Cotton (https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/3823-Blue-Sky-Skinny-Cotton ) or Louet's Euroflax linen (https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/380-Louet-Euroflax-Originals ). Both of these are more tightly spun than either the Worsted Twist or the Tosh Merino, so the stitch patterns may not "fill in" in the same way they do here, but I imagine they will be beautiful in a less structured kind of way!
I hope this gives you some good ideas. Please let us know if you need more and good luck!
Whitney
Hi! I totally fell in love with this pattern and already bought some yarn to start it! But I have a question about "carrying the yarn". Could you specify the method a bit more, so I can find a helpful video, etc? What will I have to search for? Is it "stranding" or "intarsia" or "carrying the yarn up the side" or "across the entire row"? Silly questions probably, but I have never done that before and need some visual help to manage it! (Also I am German and did not know there is an English and a continental method, so I was really confused when I watched your videos! 😉 I learned the continental method.)
Thank you in advance! Your blog is wonderful!
Hi Danielle,
Good question! I'm so excited to be teaching a Stitch Block Cowl class this spring. It will be on Thursdays, from 6pm to 8pm, April 24th, May 1st and 8th. You can get all the details right here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/classes-at-purl-soho/
It's going to be a lot of fun; I hope you can join us!
Whitney
Hi Ute,
By "carrying", I mean "carrying up the side", which is super easy! It just basically means dropping the yarn when you're done with it and picking it up when you need it. Two things to keep in mind are keeping your tension relaxed so you don't end up with a taut edge, and also, pick up the new yarn in front of the old yarn for a consistent and neat edge. Our Slip Stitch Dishtowels have a picture of this in the Pattern Note section: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/the-purl-bee/2013/6/16/whits-knits-slip-stitch-dishtowels.html .
I hope this helps. Knitting in a second language has its own set of challenges, so please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck!
Whitney
Thank you thank you thank you for posting this pattern. You read my mind, I was definitely in a knitting rut and this pattern is such a delight to knit. I love patterns that are really simple but the finished product make it seem like I'm a really advanced knitter!
Hi Jo,
I'm sorry it's taken me a little while to get back to you; I wanted to go back to the source of this stitch pattern, Barbara Walker's Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, to see what she suggested. In the original Checked Rose Fabric pattern, BW says to cast on an odd number of stitches with Color B and to knit one preparation row. She then begins the actual stitch pattern with the same Row 1 that is in our pattern.
I hope this is what you need to get started! Have fun and please let us know if you have any other questions!
Whitney
I love purl bee and I use tons of your patterns. But this fully takes the cake! I am way too excited about this gorgeous cowl. Thanks so much for sharing!!!
Hi,
I'm a pretty experienced knitter, but I just can't seem to figure this pattern out! In rows 1 and 2, the first stitches are K2 and K1, respectively. When I follow the pattern as written above, the Knit rows do not line up to make the alternating vertical rows which make this pattern so great! Am I missing something super obvious that I just can't figure out? Please any help you could provide would be so appreciated! I have tried several times with small changes and can't seem to make it work.
Thank you!!!
I have three skeins of Suri Merino in the color snow. Do you think I could use that as color A, along with the PS Worsted Twist and Tosh Merino? I'm wondering how the alpaca would fare with this cowl.
This is such a beautiful pattern – thanks for sharing.
I'd love to turn this into a baby blanket – wider and shorter than the cowl.
Do you think this feasible with the yarn kit, or would I need to purchase more yarn?
Thanks in advance.
Beautiful cowl! Could you please give me some options for replacing the worsted twist? Thank you!
Hi Olivia-
Sure! You can use any worsted weight wool yarn such as Anzula's For Better or Worsted: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7913-Anzula-For-Better-or-Worsted
or Cascade 220: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/649-Cascade-Yarns-Cascade-220
or Manos Del Uruguay Maxima: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7529-Manos-Del-Uruguay-Maxima
Thanks for your question!
Molly
Hi Michelle,
It may help you to know that there is a one-stitch garter stitch edge on both selvedges, so the first (and last) knit stitch of each row is an edge stitch. Additionally, I would double check that you have cast on an odd number of stitches and that you have followed the pattern exactly as written. It may be, also, that you haven't worked far enough along to see the stitch pattern fully emerge.
Please let us know if you're still having problems and we'll try to figure it out with you! Thanks for asking and good luck!
Whitney
Hi Sara,
The Suri Merino is a bit thinner than both the Worsted Twist and especially the Tosh Merino but perhaps not prohibitively thinner. Another consideration is that the suri fibers might make knitting into the row below a little tricky, since they'll have the tendency to catch on neighboring strands, not allowing the "dropped" stitch to fall down to its proper place.
Having said all that, I do think the Suri Merino would work out okay. Try it and see!
Thanks so much for your question and please let us know if you have any more!
Whitney
Hi Lottie,
With the yarn in the kit, you'd have enough to make a baby blanket that measures about 25 inches by 30 inches. If you buy an extra skein of Color B, you'd be able to stretch it a bit bigger!
Great idea and great question! Thanks for asking it and good luck!
Whitney
Hi ladies!
If I wanted a wider scarf, can I just cast on more stitches in an odd number?
Thanks!
Hi, with the English Rose Tweed, with row 3, would it be right side or wrong side? Thank you.
I am knitting this beautiful cowl and have a problem… I made a mistake in the checked rose section… I un-knitted to the row past the mistake… but my needles have both colors of the working yarn (white-blue-white-blue etc.) While knitting this section I have never had this pattern on my needles. Help! How do I un-knit to fix a mistake using this knit in the row below technique? I am stumped… Can you help?
Gorgeous!! And I bet the blue kit is divine. How much is your learn to knit book alone?
Hi Kim,
Yes, that's it!
Thanks for asking and good luck!
Whitney
Hi Ela,
You work the English Rose Tweed pattern back and forth, turning the piece at the end of each row, as usual, so Row 3 is a right side row.
I hope this helps you finish up! Thanks for your question and please let us know if you have any more!
Whitney
Hi Lily-
Thank you!
We don't currently sell our how to knit booklet outside of the how to knit kit, which is available here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8946-Purl-Soho-Learn-to-Knit
Thank you!
Molly
Thanks Whitney for taking the time to answer. Yes this is what I needed to know. All best wishes!
I have the same question as Dee. I have made a mistake in the rose section and have tried to fix it. Ended up just starting over, ugghh. I'm scared to start again without knowing the answer. Thanks, Desirae
Hi!
I'm writing to let you know I included this project in my "Top DIYs of the Week" on my blog:
http://www.wemakeapair.com/wordpress/2014/02/21/top-diys-of-the-week3/
Have a nice day,
Paola
Hi Dee and Desirae,
Oh dear! I answered Dee some time ago, but due to some horrible technical glitch, the answer never posted. I'm so sorry, Dee! Let's try again…
As Dee mentions, when you un-knit the Checked Rose pattern the stitches on the needle alternate between the two colors. To fix this, first figure out which color appears to be regular knit stitches and which one is coming from two rows down with a horizontal strand of the other color yarn crossing in front of it. You need to reknit all of the stitches that come from two rows down by pulling the horizontal strand through the stitch on the needle in the direction (i.e. from front to back or from back to front) that will make it the same kind of stitch as the ones you are leaving alone.
I hope this gives you both the confidence to forge ahead. Please let us know if you have any other problems and we'll do our best to fix them!
Whitney
I started working on this today and I'm liking it but not liking it. My K1Bs look loose. . .or really you can see the yarn carrying. My K1Bs don't look raised and definitely are not as tight as in your photos. I want to make this lighter for a spring/fall use since by the time I finish it'll probably be spring. So I took a suggestion from a previous post and I'm using Louet's Euroflax linen. In regards to that post you mentioned "…so the stitch patterns may not "fill in" in the same way they do here, but I imagine they will be beautiful in a less structured kind of way!". And I'm guessing the yarn is the reason why my K1Bs don't look as tight or raised?? Or do I need a tighter gauge? Could washing help?
I'll stick to it because I don't really have another pattern in mind for the Louet and I really like the pattern.
Thanks in advance!
Hey!
I just got your kit today in the mail (yay!). Sadly, I've been repeatedly knitting and frogging the ramber pattern portion of the pattern because all of my stitches are flush and I'm not getting the gorgeous rib look that in your photos.
Any idea what I could be doing wrong?
Thanks!
Love this cowl pattern Whitney! Have been looking for sooo many patterns for a possible snood/cowl project and am really pleased to have bumped onto your blog site. Keep posting your cool, creative and innovative ideas.
Happy knitting :D!
If I just wanted to do the English Rose Tweed throughout the cowl and still have it be 60in would 1 skein each be enough and would I just start the pattern with row one after casting on 51 stitches (so two rows of color A) or would I cast on 52 stitches instead (just one row of color A)? Should I still use the kitchener to close the cowl or would something else look better? Thanks!
HI Jess,
Yes, the Louet Euroflax will definitely have a different look than the merino I used. It is thinner and much less soft and "fluffy". It also has a heavier drape. If you're not liking the way yours is turning out, I suggest playing with the needle size and also blocking your work. Linen takes on a whole different life after it has been blocked!
I hope you find, in the end, that the linen was a good choice. It's one of my very favorite yarns! Please let us know if you have any other questions and thank you for these!
Whitney
Hi Lauren,
A couple of customers at our store have reported the same problem. Luckily, one of our managers, Thomas, figured out a solution! It may seem radically different than the pattern as written, but the result is actually the same. Some people just seem to have an easier time knitting into the row below if the stitch above is a knit stitch rather than a purl stitch (and it doesn't matter which it is, since it's getting dropped!). So, try this…
Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7: K2, purl to last stitch, k1.
Rows 9, 11, 13, and 15: K1, purl to last stitch, k1.
I hope this helps you get the embossed texture of the stitch pattern. Please let us know if you have any more questions and thank you so much for this one!
Whitney
Hi Andrea,
If you're using Worsted Twist, then yes, you will have just enough with three skeins (1 of each color). I would use a provisional cast on to cast on 52 stitches with Color A, knit 1 row (still with Color A), and then continue on with Row 1 of the stitch pattern, as written. And yes, I would still use the Kitchener Stitch to graft together the two ends!
Thanks for your questions and good luck with your English Rose Tweed Cowl!
Whitney
Hey!
I just ordered the navy yarn kit…. Can't wait but have to as its up to 3 weeks postage to Australia. Thanks for answering everyone's questions as I'm sure once I get started I'll be walking down the same path! Very excited. Xx
Finally a cowl where the back doesnt look like the back. Most cowls and scarfs look great on the front, but the characterless solid purl side looks so unattractive when it shows while being worn. I can't wait to make this! Thank you for your creativity and sharing!
Hi, could I us a cotton yarn 1 I can't wear wool and love the pattern? An suggestions from your cotton, linens, any other fiber? Thanks
HI Mary,
Sure, cotton would be a lovely choice! I'd recommend Blue Sky's Worsted Cotton. It's extremely soft in a nice loose spin that imitates a typical merino worsted. You can pick your palette right here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/721-Blue-Sky-Worsted-Cotton
Thanks for the great question. Please let us know if you have others and good luck!
Whitney
Hello,
I'm about ten inches into the rambler section and the pattern is coming out beautifully. My edges, however, are kinda bumpy and starting to curl. Is this something I can block away at the end or should I add a crochet edge?
I'm making this as a straight scarf so I'd like to have the hanging ends lie flat.
Thank you!
Love your patterns,
Julia
Any left handed guides?
Hi Julia,
Your edges probably aren't going to be perfectly flat, but blocking will help! If, in the end, you'd like an even neater edge, then yes, you can decide to do either a single crochet or slip stitch edging, or consider an attached I-cord!
Thanks so much for asking and please let us know if you have any other questions!
Whitney
Hi Kathleen,
We don't usually have any specific advice for left hand knitters, since most lefties knit the same as Continental-style righties (i.e holding the working yarn in the left hand and working from right to left).
If you need help translating the instructions for your method of knitting, we'd be happy to help. Please let us know what it is and we'll work it out with you! Thank you for your question!
Whitney
I'm on the 3rd pattern and loving the knit the row below technique and already plotting my next project. I'd like to convert the checked rose pattern into baby blankets (for a friend expecting twins!) using the Blue Sky Worsted Cotton, an approx 30" by 36" blanket (which I think is just shy of doubling one scarf section) – can you help me guestimate approximate yardage? Both blankets will have the same Color A but will have different Color B's. I was thinking about 2 to 3 skeins of color A and 1 skein of color B for each blanket? Does that sound about right? If so, for the two blankets, I think 5 skeins of the shared color A and one each of the two coordinating colors. Thanks!
Oh, and I was thinking maybe a 5-stitch garter stich border, too!
Hi Whitney,
I just started knitting the cowl & am a couple of rows in on the rambler section. I gently "tugged" at my knitting to see how the pattern was looking & all of my knit 1 below stitches dropped. What am I doing wrong? I frogged and started over a few times & still can't figure it out. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Jen
Hi Adrienne,
Great idea! You're going to need more yarn than that though. I'd guess 7 or 8 skeins per blanket. And the ratio of Color A to Color B is 3 to 1. So I'd suggest getting at least 15 skeins of Color A and 3 skeins of each Color B.
Please let us know if you have any questions along the way and make sure to send a picture of the finished blankets (with babies, please!)!
Whitney
Hi Jennafar,
That's disconcerting! It sounds like you are not getting the tip of the right needle into the stitch below the one on the needle but are instead inserting the tip somewhere next to the stitch. Make sure you identify the stitch below and that the needle is, in fact, going into the center of it. Really study the photos at the beginning of the pattern and compare your knitting to them so you can really analyze where to put the needle.
I hope this helps. Please let us know if you continue to have the same problem and we'll see what we can do to get you on the right path!
Whitney
I have a quick question about the pattern. In Block B, Checked Rose Fabric, I have to knit the second block until the piece measures 40 inches from cast on edge. When you say "Cast on edge" do you mean the origional cast on that is all the way at the bottom of the piece or the cast on of color B at the end of the checked fabric?
Hi Joanna,
I mean the original cast on edge (at the beginning of the Rambler Pattern).
Thank you for your question and please let us know if you have any others!
Whitney
Hi Purlbee,
Regarding the alternate "Thomas" way, it says for rows 9,11,13,15 to k1, purl to end of row. Should it read "K1, purl across to last stitch, K1"…..this way it would retain the garter stitch selvedge?
Thanks for your super lovely pattern and advice!
Hi Robyn,
So true!! I am so glad you pointed that out! I edited my response to Lauren so no one (else) gets confused, and we all have you to thank for that… Thank you!
Whitney
Hi, I am a little confused with the provisional cast on. So what I have found is that my provisional cast on will be pulled into the 2nd row stitch with the knitting into the row below method. The whole reason for a provisional cast on is to pull it out a the end to graft the cowl together. But how will that work if the provisional cast on is knitted into the 2nd row?
Hi Randi,
I agree that if you were knitting into your provisional cast on, you'd be trouble, but actually, for Row 2, when you knit into the stitch below, you should be knitting into Row 1, not the provisional cast on. You may want to try a practice swatch (if you haven't already) to make sure you understand the "knit into the row below" concept. Or maybe just knowing that you should be knitting into Row 1's stitches will get you on the right path!
Please let us know if you need more help and we'll be happy to give it!
Whitney
I cannot WAIT to knit this cowl! I just ordered the kit. This is probably my favorite thing I’ve ever seen (knit-wise). Love yellow!
how do I print this pattern without all the other information and comments. I do not see a print symbol on the new format. Please help. thanks
Hi Christine-
Unfortunately our new site does not have a print button (although we are working on addressing that.) For now we recommend that you cut and past just the info you want into a Word or Text doc and print from there. We know this isn’t ideal and apologize for the inconvenience!
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Hello, thank you for another wonderful free pattern. I was knitting while tired and messed up the rose section. Any advice on unknitting to get back to my mistake?
Hi Mandi,
It is a little tricky to fix mistakes in the Checked Rose section. A couple of other readers have had the same question. You can read my answer to them above, and I’ll write it again here:
When you un-knit the Checked Rose pattern the stitches on the needle alternate between the two colors. To fix this, first figure out which color appears to be regular knit stitches and which one is coming from two rows down with a horizontal strand of the other color yarn crossing in front of it. You need to reknit all of the stitches that come from two rows down by pulling the horizontal strand through the stitch on the needle in the direction (i.e. from front to back or from back to front) that will make it the same kind of stitch as the ones you are leaving alone.
I hope this makes sense you. Give it a try and if you get in a pickle, we’re here to help! Thanks so much for your question and good luck!
Whitney
I love the Block #2, Checked Rose Fabric pattern and just wondered if it is possible to knit this pattern in the round. I can usually work it out myself but this one has got me flummoxed.
Hi Melanie,
I haven’t tried it, and I have to admit that without some experimenting I’m a little flummoxed too! I did find a website that has a pattern for working the Checked Rose Stitch in the round: http://www.daisychainknits.com/checked-rose-stitch/ . I can’t vouch for the accuracy, but it looks like a good place to start.
I’m sorry we don’t have the resources here to give you a more surefire answer, but I hope this one works! Thanks so much for asking and let us know how it goes!
Whitney
Hi Whitney!
I actually wrote up the “In the Round” instructions because we were doing a KAL in the Reddit Knitters group on Ravelry, and we had a few people ask that it be converted to the round to create hats and mittens in the same stitch patterns. If you’re curious how the Checked Rose in the round instructions knit up, in addition to my own testing, there are a couple of different projects that used the instructions. One is BadChild’s Stitch Block Hat (http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Badchild/stitch-block-cowl-3) and Stitch Block Mittens (http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Badchild/stitch-block-cowl-4).
Hope this helps! 🙂
Amanda
Is there a way to get a printer friendly copy of the pattern? right now I would have to print 41 pages
Hi-
We are working on converting our older patterns into PDFs but it’s unfortunately kind of slow going! For now we recommend that you copy and paste the pattern into a text or Word Doc and print from there, or use a free site like printfriendly.com. Sorry this isn’t ideal and thanks so much for your question!
Molly
Try copying and pasting into a word document and reducing the font size. : ) (That sometimes works for me!)
I also wondered the same thing! So I grabbed my iPad and took screen shots of each page that I needed for instructions. Now I just go to my photos and knit directly from there. Hope this helps.
Hi Sheila-
I like your ingenuity! However, since this first comment was left we added a print feature that allows you to print or save each pattern as a PDF that you can work from. For instance: I save the patterns as PDFs and then read them in the Kindle App on my phone. I hope this works for you and thanks for getting in touch about this!
Best-
Molly
Hi all,
I too want to make a baby blanket, but don’t see anywhere the total yardage needed if we use a worsted weight yarn as you call for. How much more yardage do we need if we go DK instead? Approximately. Thanks.
Hi Lynn,
I used the following amount of yarn to make this cowl: Color A- 275 grams / 451 yards; Color B- 97 grams / 160 yards; and Color C- 34 grams / about 55 yards. A DK weight would take slightly more yarn, but I’m sorry to say, I don’t know exactly how much more! I’d guess 150-300 more yards?
Please let us know if you have any more questions and thanks for this one!
Whitney
I’m having a horrible time deciding what color to order! Do you have any images of this completed in any of the other color combinations? Thanks.
Hi Jennifer-
We don’t, unfortunately! But you might try searching on Ravelry? I’m sorry we can’t be of more help!
Best-
Molly
ps- if I were making this for myself I would get the Aqua colorway! 🙂
I just finished this as a gift for a friend and just WOW!! Thanks for the great pattern!
Would it be possible to make this as a single-loop cowl? I realize I’d have to greatly shorten each section or even leave out one of the sections, but it’s (although absolutely stunning!) just too much yarn for me to have around my neck. Do you think that would be possible or just too much of a change for it to still be attractive? Any and all suggestions welcome!
By the way, I’m thrilled to read that you’re converting your patterns to PDF. I’ve made all the patterns of yours that I’ve done into Word documents. Thank you so very much for all these wonderful patterns you’ve made available to us!
Hi Kris,
I think that’s a cool idea! Maybe it would be nice to do each block a different length, instead of evenly spaced (like they are here).
Let us know how it goes and thanks for the suggestion!
Whitney
HI I love this pattern but in the first block I am having a hard time with rows 9-16….when I am knitting it , it turns out in seed stitch but in the picture it doesnt look like that at all…….what am i doing wrong???
Thanks again
Hi Liz,
If your Rows 1-8 are looking good, but your Rows 9-16 are looking like seed stitch (which, you’re right, they shouldn’t!), then I would guess that you’re making a simple mistake reading the pattern. Make sure that you’re knitting a one-stitch garter stitch edging and only repeating the stitches that come after the asterisk.
If you’re still having problems, please let us know and we’ll try to get you on the right path!
Whitney
Hello! I ordered the yellow kit and was SOOO excited to start! My rambler pattern does not look as well defined as the picture and I can’t figure out the problem! Could it be too loose? I usually knit too tight! Anyway, I just ripped it all out and am starting over. Hopefully the same thing doesn’t happen. Any advice?
Hi Stephanie,
You’re probably having the same problem a few other customers have reported. Here’s what I’ve recommended to them!
Some people seem to have an easier time knitting into the row below if the stitch above is a knit stitch rather than a purl stitch (and it doesn’t matter which it is, since it’s getting dropped!). This may seem radically different than the pattern as written, but the result is actually the same. Try this…
Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7: K2, purl to last stitch, k1.
Rows 9, 11, 13, and 15: K1, purl to last stitch, k1.
I hope this helps you get the embossed texture of the stitch pattern. Please let us know if you have any more questions and thank you so much for this one!
Whitney
Hello Whitney,
I think I am having the same issue as described above, but on the Checked Rose block. Block 1 turned out beautifully, but it seems that the little flecks of yellow in Block 2 are not *popping* the way they do in your photos. Am I not knitting tightly enough perhaps? I do find it awkward to knit below certain stitches. Thanks for any advice!
Hi Allison!
I am uncertain what would be causing this issue. If your Block 1 turned out correctly, then I can only assume that you are performing the “knit into the row below” correctly. I would just double check and be sure that you haven’t made a small error following the second block’s directions. When I knit my own, it even took me a few rows to feel comfortable with the way the rows repeated!
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Hi,
Thanks for posting this pattern. I want to make this over the fall/winter season, but I’m confused by 2 points in the instructions.
After the 3 blocks are worked, the patt states:
If you used a Provisional Cast On, ending with Row 4 …
Then it goes on to state the next row. I don’t understand where or what is the row 4? None of the blocks end on a row 4 ore repeat back to row 4. Can you shed a little light for me? Also, if a long tail cCO was used, further down, it states ending with row 5 … and then goes on to give next row directions. I’m confused as to what or where I should be left off after completing the major knitting of the cowl.
Thanks for any clarification you can offer.
Eileen
Hi Eileen,
Those instructions mean that if you used a Provisional Cast On, you should end the English Rose Tweed section with that pattern’s Row 4, which is, indeed, in the middle of the stitch pattern’s repeat.
The same is true if you used a long tail cast on, except in that case, you would end with the English Rose Tweed’s Row 5.
I hope that this clears things up for you. Please let us know if you have any further questions and thank you for this one!
Whitney
I just finished Laura ‘ s Bobble Sheep pillow and cannot wait to start the cowl! I’m not very experienced with color changes….. Do you just carry the yarn up the sides?
Hi Mandi S.-
Yes! I always carry the working yarn in front of the non-working yarn for consistency. It’s also important to keep an easy, even tension on the yarns as you carry them up the selvedge (but don’t get too worried about it; it’s not a super sensitive situation!).
Thanks for asking and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Whitney
About this. More particularly, when you reach the transition from the rose checked fabric to the English tweed, would it be alright to carry color b up the 3 or 4 rows to start the tweed pattern? Or would it be best to just cut it and start fresh on the first color b row of the tweed?
Hi Stephen!
I would definitely leave the color attached! There’s only 2 rows inbetween, and the yarn is left on the correct side to start the next block.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Hi,
I just finished the rambler section of the pattern, and am slightly confused by the next block (Checked Rose). When knitting rows with colour b, am I still using colour a? If not, I am unsure how to transition between colour a yarn and colour b yarn.
Thanks!
Hi Brittany,
Each row only uses one color at a time. When you need to switch colors, you simply stop using the “old” color and pick up the “new” color (from one or two rows down). You want to keep the tension easy when you make the first stitch with the new color so that you’re not pulling up the selvage too tightly, but other than that, there’s not much to think about!
Please let us know if you have any other questions and thank you for this one!
Whitney
I love this pattern, but have a question. I am in the second block, English rose. I gave finished rows 1-6, and about to begin the repeat, on rows 1 and two do it continue to use color A?
Hi Janet,
Yes! You repeat Rows 1-6 exactly as they’re written.
Please let us know if you run into any more questions and thank you so much for this one!
Whitney
This is beautiful! I don’t knit so I’m working on a crocheted approximation of this design: Block 1 is Moroccan tile stitch in cream and mustard; Block 2 is linen stitch in cream, mustard and yellow; Block 3 will be some kind of textured stitch in cream. It’s not as elegant in crochet but still lovely. Can’t wait to finish and wear it!
Hi DC,
And we can’t wait to see it! Thanks so much for sharing!
Whitney
Hey, DC. Did you figure it out in crochet stitches yet? I absolutely love this….but also don’t knit! Been googling stitches but not having much luck. Which crochet stitches did you end up using? Would love to see yours.
Keri
Do you have any patterns with only the Checked Rose Fabric?
Hi Jessie-
We don’t, but you could certainly do a cowl or scarf entirely in that stitch if you like!
Thanks for getting in touch and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Best-
Molly
Thanks so much! 🙂
I assume you carry the colors up the side of the cowl.
Are the yarns colorfast?
Is there a good way to carry the yarn up the sides for the two stitch blocks with multiple colors? I can’t make it look good!
Hi Alyssa!
The best thing to do when carrying the yarn up the side is to always pick up the new color from the same side. In other words, bring the yarn around and to the right of the other color(s) each time you start with it again. As long as you go from the same side every time, it will be consistent. Also, very importantly, don’t pull the first stitch of the new color very tight at all! You need to leave space for that yarn to create a float.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Hello, I submitted my question a few minutes ago but am not sure if it went through. Thus, I’m submitting it again.
I would like to make a flat scarf using the Checked Rose Fabric stitch. How would I adapt the pattern for double pointed needles (instead of knitting in the round) so that I don’t have to cut yarn A and B at the end of each row that uses the colors once. For example, at the end of row 3 I would have to cut yarn B and at the end of row 5, I would have to cut yarn A.
Thank you
Hi Gita!
This pattern is actually knit flat! We made it into a cowl simply by sewing the cast-on to the bind-off! You need the circular needles because of the very same issue you brought up. If you follow our pattern as written, you will be “turning” the work at the end of some rows, and “sliding” the work to the other end at the end of other rows. No cutting necessary!
Hope this helps!
Thomas
Thank you Thomas. It’s so wonderful to be on a site whose owners actually answer questions. Thank you for that and thank you for the beautiful projects and patterns. I only found your site recently and will certainly let all me knitter friends know about it.
I’ve asked my Mom if she could knit this for me. I hope she can. I love it!
I wish I had learned to knit.
Maybe one day.
Love from Canada
Upon starting the pattern I draw through a stitch between the 2 needles and under the bar of yarn as instructed. I drop the stitch off the left needle and it unravels all the way down the piece! I don’t understand how to keep this from happening.
What to do with the stitch on the left needle is my problem. Any help you can provide will be much appreciated. Thank you.
Hi Lou Anne!
The reason you are getting a run is because you haven’t performed the “knit into the row below” quite right. Instead of knitting into the bar between the two needles (like you would were you doing a M1), you are going to knit into the stitch below the stitch on the left needle. You should be putting your needle in just a little bit to the left of where you were trying before. Take a look at the photo in the “notes” section one more time, and hopefully that will clarify!
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
I love this scarf. I got through the rambler patter with little problems, but now on the rose it’s not so easy. I’m pretty sure I’m doing it right, as my rambler patter looks great, but the contrast color is not in the two neat lines in between the cream color like in the pics. Mine is separated and there’s just a lot more space in the pattern, in between tbe stitches, and it just looks kinda sloppy. I thought it was bc I was knitting too tight, but I tried loosening my tension and that didn’t help either. Please help!
Hi Lisa!
It’s very hard to say without looking at your knitting. Maybe double check to be sure you are following the pattern correctly, and make sure that when you knit into the row below that the stitch above falls through all the way. It might also be that you are knitting looser?
Thanks for your question!
Thomas
Same problem as Lisa’s. I have knitted and unravelled block 2 several times (have lost count) because it does not looks sloppy, unlike the photo–block 1 looks fine. Could there be something missing from block 2 instructions? Has anyone knitted from the instructions and got it right?
Hello Nishta!
Many customers and employees have been able to get it right, but each stitch pattern gives different knitters different gauges. If you think that stitch pattern 2 is coming out too loose and sloppy, I would recommend you go down a needle size. If you’re worried about keeping the block the same width as the others, make sure to give it an extra tug into place when blocking the finished piece.
Hope this helps! -Alyson
When you knit into the row below you end up with additional stitches. When you knit the next row, are you supposed to treat those stitches as two or one stitch? I’ve been treating them as individual stitches and having to start over. Trying treating the two stitches as one now…. Thanks!
Hi Carrie!
You shouldn’t be ending up with any extra stitches when you knit into the row below. Make sure that you aren’t knitting into the row below as well as the row on the needle. After knitting into the center of the stitch in the row below, you should remove the stitch above it from the left needle, and it will fall out into a “brioche” looking stitch, with only 1 new stitch made on the right needle.
Hope this clarifies!
Thomas
So delighted to have found this site!
Since I’m a beginner, I’m trying a sample work before making a decision to buy yarns. I have a few questions:
1. Should I knit 3 blocks seperately and connect the work later?
2. On block 3, the pattern says to make increase stitch in the set up row, and I wonder if I have to cast on 26 and knit front and back to make 51 stitches in total.
3. Will it do if I just work in the order of block 1-block3-block2 and combine the end of the block 2 with 1? In that case, is there anything to do between block 1 and block 3?
4. Do you ship to South Korea too? What will be the postage like?
Thank you in advance.
Hi Cindy!
I’ll try to answer your questions!
1. Do a small sample using an odd number of stitches and knit through all three blocks subsequently together; do not knit them separately.
2. I don’t understand why you need to cast on half the number of stitches. Simply cast on the number needed for the first block, and continue knitting through to the third block. If you want to swatch to practice, simply knit for fewer inches.
3. Since there are three blocks in a circle, there is actually no way that you can knit that will change the order of the stitch sections. Try it out: your option of 1, 3, 2 is actually just 3, 2, 1 if you start the circle in a different place, and the reverse order is exactly the same as 1, 2, 3. I would personally knit them in the order that the pattern is written!
4. We do ship internationally! Click here to see our information about shipping.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Why oh why aren’t these knit stitches easily converted to crochet stitches? This is absolutely stunning! Great choice of color and beautiful workmanship!
Hi, I love this pattern and I’m really excited to start! Quick question – I have interchangeable circulars but only 14″ or 22″ and 30″ are closest. Will it matter if they are a little short or long?
Thanks!
Hi Spruha!
Since you aren’t every actually joining to knit in the round, it doesn’t matter too much how long the cord is! You simply just need the circular needle because you will slide to the other end at the end of some rows. Just use whichever is most comfortable for you!
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Hello! This is such a fun pattern to knit but I’ve made a few mistakes in the second block and have a hard time taking the stitches out, putting them back on the needle correctly so I can fix the pattern. (Mostly, I get out of pattern by just a stitch). The knitting in the row below is what is tripping me up. I can fix stitches very easily in regular knit rows but can not figure out how to do it with the knit below stitches. Any advice you have would be appreciated!
Hi Kelly!
Moving forward, I would suggest using “Life-lines.” As far as fixing a mistake you might have already, I would just mention that as you pick-up or tink back, you have to pick up both the stitch (that was from the row below) and the strand that was the above stitch.
Happy Knitting,
Thomas
Hi,
I love this cowl, it’s so beautiful, I decided that I absolutely had to knit this for myself. I am however, very new to knitting. Everything was going very well until I made a mistake and I have no idea how to fix it. I’m still in the first block on row 16. I wasn’t paying close enough attention and I’ve K1 in the row below and then accidentally P2 and then K1 in the row below again. I don’t know how to fix the area where I’ve knit in the row below to get back to take the extra purl out.
Thanks so much for you help!
Hi Meghan!
As you tink back, for any stitch in which you have performed a knit into the row below, you’ll need to pick up both the stitch, and the extra strand going around it. When you knit forward again, instead of knitting into the row below again, you’ll knit those stitches together with the extra strand you picked up.
I would also suggest this as a great pattern to use a “life-line” with.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
If I am reading these directions correctly, all I need to do to practice the second section is to work on an odd number of stitches. I would rather give it a go on a small number of stitches before I work on the real scarf. Am I reading this right?
Thanks!
Robin
Hi Robin!
You are correct! The first two blocks just need an odd number.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
I am so excited to make this scarf!! However, I am allergic to wool and, this is probably a silly question, am wondering if I can just substitute a cotton worsted weight instead with no ill effect….
Hi Danike!
That should be fine! Worsted weight is what you need!
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Agree. Copy and paste is a technique used often by me. Allows for editing/ blocking to the number of pages and pictures preferred. This pattern is gorgeous ! ” Droolicious” 🙂 Thank you!
Hi Barb-
We actually have a new print feature that allows you to print and save as a PDF without copying and pasting. You can also omit any pages or pictures that you don’t need. Just click on the “print” text on the right hand side of this, or any, pattern!
Thank you!
Molly
Hi! For Block #3, English Rose Tweed, I’m unsure about row 3 and row 4. Are they knitted on the right side or the wrong side?
Thank you.
Hi Allison!
In this section, each color will be knit across in a right side row followed by a wrong side row. So row 3 is right side, and row 4 is wrong side.
Happy Knitting!
Thomas
Hi! Thank you so much for the beautiful pattern! I’m a beginner but I really would like to buy the yarn and try this project.
I was wondering how you start with the wrong side(1st row)? I would like to try with the long tail cast on but in the case, both the working yarn and the tail should be on the same side, which indicates “right side”?
I hope you can help me with this!
Thank you.
Hi Yuka!
It actually does not matter which side you start with after the cast on. In this pattern, specifically, you will be sewing the two ends together, so you’ll be covering up the cast on anyway.
In other patterns, it is common to have row 1 be a wrong side row, because a long tail cast on functions as an already made row of knits.
Thanks for your question!
Thomas
I got the Aegean colorway over the holidays and whipped up my cowl before break was over! I wear it all the time because it’s so comfy and wanted to use up my scrap yarn to make a matching headband or hat. I ended up making the “Fjord” cap colorblocked by using the leftover oatmeal yarn as the brim and the body of the hat in my Madelinetosh! The cap and cowl look so great together!
Has anyone else had trouble with their gauge on the second section? It’s way looser than the first.
Hi! I’m just working on this beautiful cowl at the moment and have finished the 1st block without too many problems. Now in the 2nd block, do I understand it correctly, that the “knitting into the row below”-stitch is done with a knit stitch (and not with a purl stitch as in the first block)?
Hi Ines,
Thank you for the comment! Yes, knitting into the row below should be done with a knit stitch and the second section is done with all knit stitches.
I hope this clarifies and feel free to write us back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I am almost finished the with cowl and I’m wondering if I should block it flat before doing the Kitchener stitch.
Hi Betsy,
Thank you for the comment! I would recommend blocking after you finish the Kitchener and weave in your ends. That will help the piece to set in its new structure and secure that seam as well as the ends! Since the stitch pattern doesn’t curl at all you shouldn’t have to worry about pinning it flat.
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Hi!
I’m just starting this beautiful cowl as a gift but am a bit concerned about the blocks being the same size. I’ve read many reviews on Ravelry and it seems that Block #2 is a little to much slimmer than Block #1 (depending on the knitter). Do you have any recommendations to avoid this? I’ve read through the comments and don’t see anyone else asking.
Thanks so much!
Tiffany
Hello Tiffany!
Since each stitch pattern is unique, the gauge can definitely differ amongst them. Make sure to practice each stitch pattern a little and check your gauge before starting on the entire block!
Depending on the fiber content of your yarn, blocking will help make the shape and width of the cowl more uniform. Pure wool and all other animal fibers block out especially well!
Hope this helps! Enjoy! -Alyson
Planning a dramatic wrap using your pattern in super-bulky malabrigo rasta, so will be using massive needles and a very much smaller number of stitches. I am not certain how to scale down section three especially – would you be able to give me a small number of stitches that could be multiplied up to work for all thee sections please? I’d be so grateful.
Very many thanks from London, both for pattern and advice!
Hello Carolyn,
Thanks so much for writing in! What a fun idea to change the scale of this graphic pattern. What gauge are you getting for this yarn? The sizing will always depend on the tension of the fabric that you would like.
Once you figure out how many stitches you can get in each 10cm measurements and determine how wide you would like it to be you can multiply the number of stitches by 10cm and figure out how many stitches to cast on. Make sure that you turn it into an odd number (if it isn’t already) so that the stitch patterns are distributed correctly.
Best of luck! -Alyson
Muito bonito
I started this cowl for my daughter who is 2 years old.. I have reduced the width a bit but am having trouble deciding the length (circumference) of the cowl. Could you suggest a length that would be OK for a toddler? Also i do not want to knit the third block.. Just the first and the second… What row should i end with then when i am joining the two ends?
Hello Aisha!
From a quick google search, it looks like a standard circumference for a toddler/child’s sized cowl is about 48″. I would make each color block about 24″ so that you have equal parts! Did you do the provisional cast on so that you can graft the pieces together? If you did, I would recommend ending with Row 5 of the second block as the pattern suggests. If you are going to stitch them together in the end then it really doesn’t matter which row you end with.
Best of luck! -Alyson
Any suggestions on how to get the edges to look near and flat like yours? I’m two thirds done and they look more nobbly with each color. I can’t seem to figure out the best way to carry the yarn up.
Hello Emily!
This is a very difficult thing to achieve for most knitters despite their years of experience! Carrying yarn up the edges of a pattern takes very careful tension control. There isn’t a full proof method to make sure your edges are smooth, just make sure you are keeping it taught enough, but not too tight so the fabric will pucker. I wish I had some more tangible advice! Best of luck! -Alyson
So I bought this kit today and I was so looking forward to knitting it. Unfortunately, I’m having the worst trouble with the rambler stitch. It simply looks like a rib stitch no matter how many times I try, and has no resemblance to the pictures posted. I have tried the modification of purling on the wrong side and it still doesn’t work. Is it a problem with my tension? is the pattern affected by the fact that I knit continental?
Hello Donna!
How frustrating! Knitting Continental shouldn’t affect the pattern at all, as long as you’re knitting the knits with the yarn in the back and the purls with the yarn in the front then you should be golden! Do you think you’re having trouble with knitting in the row below? Are you remembering to switch the row sequence after every 8 rows?
If you’d like to send over a photo feel free to write into customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com. Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
Hi,
I’m very new to knitting, when the pattern says to measure 20 inches from first cast does that mean to use a tape measure or to count the rows (previously the pdf states that 4 stitches is an inch, so does that also mean 4 rows=1 inch?)
Thanks!
Hello Britt!
Unfortunately just because the stitch gauge is 4 stitches to the inch, it doesn’t automatically guarantee that the row gauge is the same. If the dimensions are given in inches, like they are in this pattern, you can always feel free to measure with a tape measure!
If another pattern you have gives # of rows to measure your progress by, chances are they will also give you a more precise row gauge. Hope this helps! Best of luck! -Alyson
Hello,
I am currently working on the checked rose pattern, but it is not looking like your pictures. The yellow in the first half of the pattern is looking stretched out, but the yellow for the 2nd half of the pattern looks like the V’s in your picture. I’ve started over several times and it’s always coming out the same. Any idea’s as to what I’m doing wrong?
Hello Courtney!
How frustrating! Feel free to send us over a photo to customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com so that we may better be able to troubleshoot together! Thanks for writing in and best of luck! -Alyson
I used the provisional crochet cast on one step method. Before I get too far, I did rows 1-8 and then went back to the cast on to see if I could figure out which stitches to pick up at the end. It doesn’t seem real clear. Because row 2 dips into the cast on row with the k1 in the row below it now looks like I pick up one stitch and then it looks like I pick up 2 for the next stitch and then one and then 2. I know that is probably clear as mud, so maybe I’ll try another cast on with some other yarn and see if I can figure it out. I read somewhere to do a row of knit first before doing the knit below row. Maybe knit one row then start with row 1? not sure how that will look seamed up at the end. thanks.
Note to self: Use Provisional Cast On: a Two-Step Method. Works much better. Do over. Thanks for the great tutorials. 🙂
Hello, Katherine!
We are so glad that you like our tutorials! Thank your for writing in.
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hello Katherine,
Provisional cast on is great because it leaves the stitches live within the crochet chain you’ve created. They aren’t super visible when you still have it attached to the crochet chain. Once you remove the chain, the stitches will sort of reappear and you won’t have to really pick up or recreate any new stitches. I would recommend doing it one stitch at time so that you make sure to catch each one!
Regarding knitting into the row below, you can finagle it to start this technique right after you do the cast on, but many knitters prefer to do one row of knitting first, just as you suggested.
I hope this helps! Happy knitting! -Alyson
I’m having problems with the Checked Rose stitch and I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. I have unpicked a number of times and also tried test samples, but the pattern does not look the same as your picture. I’ll email over a picture of a sample piece to your customer service email account. The picture shows a loose V line that is appearing above and below a more compact V. Can you help please ?
Hello, Fiona.
Thank you so much for writing in! Have you recieved help for this stitch? If not, please let me know.
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Hi,
I just wanted to say thanks for showing the reverse side of the pattern. It’s so helpful to have that visual aid! I see so many beautiful patterns that look beautiful on the right side but that are blah on the wrong side. I don’t know how to wear a cowl/scarf so that the wrong side never shows, so I like to knit patterns that are attractive on both sides. Please continue to include wrong-side photos with your patterns!
All the best,
-hazel
P.S. – I used the Rambler Pattern section to knit a cowl in the round, and I have linked back to your pattern. Pix coming once blocking is complete. Thanks again!
I have just transitioned from block 1 to block 2 and it looks like I have somehow made the block 2 right side match the wrong side of block 1. I am 99% sure that I ended on row 14 for block 1 (the row where you were knitting into the row below). I am going back to try again but don’t want to make the same mistake twice. How would I have made this mistake? Does it have something to do with turning or not turning the work?
Thanks so much!
Hi Sheridan,
Thanks for writing in and my apologies for the much delayed response. I am not sure how this happened. It does take several rows for the pattern of block 2 to appear. Block 1 finishes on the right side and block 2 should start on the wrong row. When in doubt I like to use a removal stitch marker to mark the front so that I do not get confused.
I hope that this information helps!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello,
I’m in the progress of the first block, but the result of my knitting is flat (even flatter than the rib stitch!). How to make it looks like one up one down in the picture? I’m pretty sure I’m doing the “knitting into the row below” right. Is it because of the tension? Should I change the needle size (larger or smaller)? Thank you.
Hello, Yolanda!
Thank you very much for writing in! I am so sorry for the delayed response! I am sorry to hear that your knitting is looking flat! It could be your tension, are you getting 4 stitches to the inch? If not, try going up a needle size if you are getting more stitches per inch or going down in needle size if you are getting fewer stitches per inch. Please let us know if that helps or if you are still having trouble. We really want to help you get this!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
I was in the Checked Rose Fabric section, in the middle of Row 1, and mistakenly knit instead of knitting into the row below or vice versa. How do I fix what looks like a dropped stitch when knitting into the row below? I have two different coloured strands (Colour A and B) of yarn stretched between the two knitting needles, and a loop (Colour A) coming up from the row below.
Hi Shannon,
Thanks for writing in! While we do not have a tutorial on how to fix fisherman’s rib, you can click here to see a YouTube tutorial on how to rip back fisherman’s rib and restart. I have been there and this can be so frustrating! Good luck!
Best,
Adam
Can the checkered rose pattern be done in the round?
Hello Bora,
Thanks for writing in. I have never seen this stitch done in the round, but I am sure that it can be done and that it exists. Though I searched the internet high and low for an in-the-round version of this stitch, I came up with nothing. Though we do not customize patterns, if you are interested in developing this stitch in the round, I have some advise. Since you are working in the round you will be substituting knit 1 below for purl 1 below. Also, you will be adjusting the beginning stitches for working in the round. For example, row 2 begins with a knit 2 — this is the selvedge, which is not necessary for knitting in the round. I hope you are able to make this stitch work in the round!
Best,
Adam
Hi there! I just received the yarn for this pattern and I’m really excited to start! I am stuck however right out of the gate!
I used a different color yarn for the provisional cast on and followed the instructions for row 1. When I get to row 2, I am having a hard time finding the “row below”. Any tips on how to find the row below with so few rows?
Thank you!
Hello Sherry,
Thank you so much for your question. I completely understand, the first row can be a bit tricky. The best way I have found to work into the row below (with so few rows worked) is to pull the fabric down with your hand so that you can really see the stitches below. You won’t have many options of where to put your needle at this point. You will want to put your needle into the stitch directly below the stitch on the needle. I hope that helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions.
Happy knitting,
Allison
Hello! Thanks for your pattern. I’ve finished Block 1 with no problems but am seriously confused in starting Block 2.
If we are knitting on the WS, then we are getting the “bumps” on the RS and looking at the pictures this just doesn’t seem right. I’m also worried that when I join in colour B on the WS it’s going to be visible on the RS of the fabric.
Have I done sonething wrong?
Oh…um…never mind! You know that thing where you just follow the instructions and it turns out…? That. 🙂
Hi, Katie!
We are so delighted that it turned out! Thanks for writing in and as always if you have any questions please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
In block 3, rows three and four, it does not say which is ws and which is rs. I am too afraid to guess :/
Help! Please!
I cannot wait to finish!
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for writing in! In the third block all the odd rows are the right side and the even rows are the wrong side. Good luck and enjoy!
Best,
Adam
I am completing block 1 with no problems so far, but am confused with the addition of color B?
Hi Janet,
Thanks for writing in. In block 2 you will be working with two colors, each in a 2 row repeat. You add color B as if you are starting a new ball of yarn — nothing different. I hope this helps.
Best,
Adam
Hi!
I am a beginner and have a very simple question about this cowl. I am doing the provisional cast on with color A.
After casting on 51 stitches, do I need to crochet a few stitches, make a loop and cut the yarn and then knit 51 stitches (like a row zero before row 1) on the provisional cast on?
Thanks!
Hi Ada,
Thanks for writing us. You want to be sure to do your provisional cast on with a contrasting color so you can see it. Also, if you are doing the one step method you will only need to cast on what you need and then chain a few stitches to differentiate which end is which. For the two sep method you will also chain a few more than your cast on.
Best,
Adam
Hello! I was wondering how many yards of each color I would need to complete this beautiful cowl?
Hi Katy,
Thanks for writing us! Here are the approximate yardages:
Color A: 275 grams / 451 yards
Color B: 97 grams / 160 yards
Color C: 34 grams / about 55 yards
Good luck on this project! It’s lovely and quite fun to knit!
-Adam
Hi, I’m finally getting to the 3rd section of the cowl and I don’t know if I’m reading the pattern right or not, but my question is, at the end of section 2 it says ending with row 5 which is a right side row, but then the set up row for section 3 is a wrong side row, so do the ws and the rs end of switching or is the set up row for the 3rd section supposed to happen in place of row 5 on section 2?
Hi Mackenzie,
Thanks for writing us! Hopefully I can clear this up! For section two you will end on row 5, which is a right side row. Row 5 says to not turn the work because of the stitch pattern in section two, but when switching to section three you will turn the work after row 5 and the wrong side will be facing. I hope this clears things up! Happy knitting!
-Adam
Hi there!
I made a couple of mistakes in the checked rose portion and was wondering if there was any way to put in a lifeline after the fact. I haven’t been able to figure it out after spending a ton of time examining!
Hi Mari,
Thanks for writing in! A lifeline in a knit below pattern is tricky, but doable if you are super careful about where you are threading your waste yarn. I suggest looking up on YouTube some tutorials about how to rip back “fisherman’s rib” or “knit below” before trying to take apart your work. If this doesn’t work, it’s probably best to have someone help you in person, like someone at a knitting shop, as this can be a pretty tricky process. If you’re in the NYC area, drop by Purl and we’ll help you out!
Best,
Adam
Muy bonita bufanda podría poner video para ver como se trabajan los diferentes colores.y como se trabajan las puntadas. Gracias!
Hi Jose,
Thank you for contacting us! We don’t have the resources to add a video right now, but we’ll keep your request in mind for the future!
Thanks,
Adam
When the pattern states ending with row 14, does that mean I knit row 14 or stop after I’ve knitted 13? I’ve practiced this pattern a couple of times and have had issues with block 2 and I want to get it right since I purchased your yarn.
Thanks,
Kimberly
Hello Kimberly,
Thank you for contacting us! Ending with row 14 means that you complete row 14 and then stop. Best of luck on the pattern and let me know how it turns out!
-Adam
Hi Purl Soho
I’m loving my cowl (winter in Australia). I’d love to try using the checked rose stitch in a project where I’ll be knitting in the round. Before I stretch my grey matter around trying to convert it, I thought I’d ask if it is indeed possible? Do you happen to have instructions for this? Nothing came up in my google search.
Thanks heaps, I hope you can help. Xx Fi
Hi Fiona,
So glad that you are loving your cowl! I have checked quite a few resources and I have been unable to find a way to convert this stitch pattern to in the round. We did have one customer in the store who attempted it but I never heard back about his results. Additionally, I did a bunch of swatching and I am unable to recreate the stitch pattern in the round successfully. You can certainly give it a go! Please do let us know if you figure out the puzzle!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello! Just bound off in purl as I used the long tail cast on…wondering if you could reference a link on seaming with wrong sides together? I usually seam using mattress stitch…Wondering if that’s an option as well?
Hi Jill!
Glad you made it to the end! If you bound off in purl then you essentially want to “whip stitch” the two ends together. Holding your pieces wrong sides together, you will insert your tapestry needle into from the far side of the cast on and pull it towards you, going through both cast on legs. Next you’ll insert your needle into the adjacent cast on stitch and pull the yarn towards you. Keep doing this until you’ve sewn the whole piece! Best of luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Hello! I have almost completed Block A. I want to put in a lifeline. I have never used a lifeline before. Would you suggest I put it in the last row of Block A or first row of Block B? Likewise moving from Block B to Block C which one would you use-last row of Block B or first one of Block C? Thanks for your help!
Hi Carol,
Great idea! A lifeline can be a life saver! In this case, I would suggest putting the life line through the last row of a section. That way, if you have difficulties in the next section, you can pull back the whole section and start from the beginning of that section!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi Carol,
Thank you for your question! I would put a lifeline in the first row of the new block you are working on. Sometimes its also helpful to put a lifeline in midway through the block. Let me know if you have any other questions about this!
-Adam
So….after ripping out the scarf a number of times I got frustrated (multiple times). I’m now using the yarn to make a scarf in the English rose tween stitch. It’s coming out quite nice but I’m concerned about quantity of yarn. I ordered the kit. Can you help me with yardage since its seems to call for equal amounts of each color? I think I may need to order more yarn in the other two colors (not white).
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing in! Sorry the pattern frustrated you! I recommend one more of each contrast color and you should be all set. Thanks!
-Adam
On block 2, row 4, I don’t understand how to slide the stitches to the right end of the needle as it’s already on the right side. Would you clarify?
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out. Once you’ve finished Row 3, your stitches should be at the left end of your needle! If you’re seeing that they’re already on the right end, then you may have turned your work. I’d recommend turning your work back so that the wrong side is facing you again, and then you can slide your stitches to the other end of your circular needle, keeping the wrong side facing you. Also, I noticed that there isn’t a concise definition of “slide work” on this project page, so I’ll include one that we’ve used in other patterns below!
“Slide work” means to keep the same side of the work facing you and to push all the stitches to the right end of the circular needles. Without turning the work, start the new row as you normally would.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Beautiful!
I am absolutely stumped. I’ve had this beautiful cowl finished for months now, but I cannot figure out how to convert the provisional cast on to live stitches. I cast on one row using my crochet hook, then went straight into the first section’s pattern. When I look at the stitches on the waste yarn, I can’t figure out where to put my needle to grab the stitches. (I’ve even swatched mini versions 3 times, and still no luck.) I’d love a visual to see where to pick up those tricky stitches. If one isn’t available I think I’m ready to sew the two ends on my sewing machine and steek. It’s a beautiful cowl, and I’m dying to wear it.
Thanks!
Hi Johanna,
I’m sorry to hear you’re having trouble with this part! The stitches you want to pick up are directly below your waste yarn. You’ll weave your needle in and out of each stitch and when done you’ll rip out the waste. If you are having a hard time visualizing this, look at the provisional cast on and locate the bumps where your main yarn is meeting the waste. These bumps look like purl stitches in your main yarn and this is the stitch you want to pick up. If it’s too difficult to pick up these stitches, you can rip a few stitches of waste yarn out and string your body yarn stitches that popped out on to a needle. You’ll do this over and over again until you’ve restrung your entire cast on.
All the best,
Adam
Hi! I love this pattern but my edges look so messy. Is there a method of carrying the yarns to keep the edges looking nice and neat?
Thanks for any suggestions,
Jean
Hi Jean,
Thanks for writing in! Carrying colors together can sometimes be a bit of a challenge. For this lovely cowl and many other projects, I twist the yarns together a the beginning of each row where they are being carried up and this helps to hide them in the selvedge a little better.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello!
I’m trying to work on Block #1, but I can not seem to achieve the same texture as yours (raised knit stitches, depressed in-between)! I’m hoping to send a picture (I can’t figure out how to attach one here) and get some advice on whether I’m doing the stitching wrong, or whether something about my technique is causing the block to be more “flat” looking than yours.
Thanks in advance for any help!!
Amber
Hello Amber,
Thank you for reaching out. If you want to send us a picture to [email protected] we would be happy to take a look!
I hope we can help,
Marilla
Hi!
I was wondering if you could provide a video or photo to show the best way to switch between colors for block 2 & 3. I’m working on block 2 and my edges look awful. I’m hoping to make another as a gift and would like it to look a little better. Thank you!!
Hillary
Hi Hillary,
Thanks for writing in! While we do not have a video or photo for this technique at present, I think that I can help! When carrying colors up the side of your work, it is helpful to twist the working yarn around the yarn that you are carrying up along the edge each time you come to the right side of the front of the work. If you twist in the same direction each time, you should come up with a pleasing edge. You can get a glimpse of it if you check out the last picture before the materials list.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I was wonderingif it really matters what row you stop on after each block, as I am not getting thd exact gauge on the length! Thank you in advance!
Hi Maureen,
Thanks for writing in! Row gauge can certainly be a challenge! To get the tidy transitions that you see in the images, you should end on the row that we suggest. However, you can certainly call it quite early if you are happy with the look. I would just be sure that you are beginning a new section on the same side to maintain the right side and wrong side textures. Depending on the block and how much longer your section is than noted, you may be able to simply cut out a repeat and end on the row suggested.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
I have a question about the provisional cast on. When i pick up a chain from the crochet chain, do I follow row 1 with the knits and purls or should I just knit into the crochet chain?
Hi Anne,
Great question! After chaining a few more stitches than you will need and cutting the yarn and pulling it through, you will use your knitting needle to pick up the back of each bump until you have the correct number of stitches on the needle. Once this is complete, you will begin with row 1 of the pattern. There is no need to knit an initial row before doing so. Additionally, beginning with row 1, will give you a clean join when you come to finishing off this lovely cowl!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Un video seria de mayor utiidad
Hi Marciel,
Thanks for writing in! We will keep your request in mind!
Best,
Cassy
About to begin the 3rd “tweed” section of this cowl. How does it go from 51 stitches to 52 in the set up row?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! I think that I can help! You increase 1 stitch in the set-up row on the second stitch that you work. You will knit the first stitch of the row and then knit into the front and back of the next stitch thereby increasing by 1 stitch!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you for your speedy response!
Hi guys! So I have made two of these scarves (one with blue the other gray and pink) but I’ve used different yarn. I finally wanted to splurge and buy the yarn you suggest but it’s not available in the yellow color. What other yarn do you recommend to replace it with so it will give the same look without messing up the pattern and keeping with the same size needles for all the yarn involved. Thanks.
Hi Lisa,
Great question! I would recommend substituting Linen Quill Worsted in Mustard Seed for the discontinued yellow color of Worsted Twist. It is the correct weight for the pattern, and even has the same yardage per skein, so it should work out just fine!
Best,
Julianna
Hi,
I was wondering if you can suggest some updated color combinations. I see a few of Tosh Meirno are currently out of stock, though, and maybe you won’t know if or when you will get more.
Could Tart pair with Red Pine? Still Water Blue with Thunderstorm? Is the idea to pair two colors that are very similar?
Hi Natalie,
Thank you for reaching out! There are a few options for you to play with while considering your color combinations for this project since the darkest color will only be used in one section. While it does look like much of the Tosh Merino is sold out, I think Tart would pair beautifully with Red Pine, or Candlewick with Fresh Pickle or Red Panda for something with a bit more contrast. Our new Linen Quill Worsted has some beautiful options, like Bright Flamingo with Peony Pink, Juniper Green with Fresh Pickle, or High Tide with True Turquoise. Maxima would also work as a substitute for the Tosh Merino and has a wide range of vibrant colors. Some possible combinations are Prince with Mountain Rose, Cherrywood with Red Pine, or Ultramarine with True Turquoise.
I hope this gives you some ideas!
Gaby
Thanks Gaby! I’m sure I can find another beautiful option.
However, I was very attracted to those yellows!
Is it ok to use the contrast colors both in different yarn than the main white color? -one in Linen Quill Worsted and the other using the Tosh Merino? I do see that Candlewick is out of stock though. Also, in the reply to the comment above, you suggested the Linen Quill Worsted in Mustard Seed. I don’t see that name/color. Were you referring to one of the yellows?
Hi Natalie,
Thanks for writing back! It should be just fine to use other types of yarn for your contrast colors as long as they are the same weight, so feel free to use Linen Quill Worsted, Tosh Merino, or both. I did find the comment you were referring to in which Julianna recommended the Mustard Seed colorway, and I believe she meant to say Dandelion Yellow as that is the closest to the old Worsted Twist color. If you’re really a fan of the yellows, Linen Quill Worsted in Dandelion Yellow and Turmeric Yellow would be just perfect!
Best,
Gaby
Thanks for the help.
Could the Tosh Merino also replace the Worsted Twist white color? I was thinking about using the color “Antler.”
Hi Natalie,
Yes, absolutely! Worsted Twist and Tosh Merino knit up to the same gauge, so you could mix and match the two yarns however you like to choose colors for this cowl!
Best,
Julianna
Bought the aqua set and completed it 2016. It was a challenge but so glad I did it. The wool is just amazing and I still get compliments on how stunning the cowl looks. Thanks for putting up this free pattern. You are my all time favourite shop.
Trés beau modéle. Je le tricote pour une fillette. Pour avoir la bonne largeur, j’ai changé de taille d’aiguille (+ 0 .5) pour le block 3 et ajouté 2 mailles et il faut faire attention à la lisière des 3 fils quand le tricotage est serré. Épinglé dans mon Pinterest. Je pense faire un snood 2 tours avec une finition en crochet pour les lisières. Merci aux artistes !
hi, can I knit the rambler pattern in the round?
Hi Wanda,
Thanks for reaching out! I think it would be fairly easy to adjust the pattern to work the stitch pattern of the Ramble Wrap in the round! Just take into consideration you will only be working on the front side of the fabric and not the back side!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi, thank you. Merry Cristmas to you and your family!
Wanda
What would you classify the difficulty of this pattern?
Hi Anette,
Thanks for writing in! I would consider this an advanced beginner to intermediate pattern, there are a few more advanced techniques, and for this, we have added photos to show the process! If you try this out and have any issues we are happy to help here in the comments section or you can write to our customer service team directly at [email protected]
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I am inspired by this pattern!
To substitute for the Worsted Twist, I am torn between Plenty and Yonder. What would you say is most similar, or would they both work just as well? I love how soft Worsted Twist is! Or perhaps there is another yarn to consider?
And for the contrast color yarns I would also use something similar to what the pattern calls for, if that helps with your suggestions.
Hi Natalie,
That’s a great question! Kelp Forest, Yellow Dune and Heirloom White would be wonderful choices in Yonder! I hope this helps!
Happy knitting,
Gavriella
Hi Gavriella-
Oh those are nice color choices!
But I was wondering if I could use Plenty in Heirlooom White combined with contrast colors in other yarns?
Would you m recommend Yonder or Plenty, or both would work?
Thanks!
I’d recommend sticking with either Plenty or Yonder. Both would make great options but I would recommend using a single yarn base for this project!
All the best,
Gavriella
Hi again! Thanks for the reply. Can you clarify- you think I should stick to the same type of yarn throughout- though the pattern originally calls for Color C in a different type of yarn?
I do love the contrast in texture with the addition of that yarn- so I want to replicate that!
I will probably go with Yonder or Plenty for Colors A and B, and look for a single ply worsted Merino for Color C.
Yes, I’d recommend sticking to the same type of yarn throughout.