Sweater Shawl
From a seaside town in Italy, the Serra-side of my family has always sparked my imagination. I grew up poring over old family photos of women promenading arm in arm, weaving in and out of little alleyways. So, when last year, I found myself in that same seaside town ringing in the New Year with a warm and boisterous group of Serras, I harbored secret hopes of living out those images I had so long adored.
According to the old photos and confirmed by my own experience, it seems that no Serra woman has ever left the house without tossing a sweater across her shoulders as a shawl. It’s a style I’d grown accustomed to seeing on my grandmother (a true lover of knitwear), but it never felt more right than in that seaside town.
This Sweater Shawl is my interpretation of a classic Serra sweater, the one you want to drape over your back but have no intention of actually wearing. With “sleeves” for crossing, wrapping or tying and a back placket for keeping warm and looking very Italian, this piece is half sweater, half shawl!
I knit it up in a lofty brioche stitch, using Anzula’s very lovely For Better of Worsted. This hand-dyed merino-cashmere blend has a graceful drape and a cozy weight that hugs your shoulders beautifully!
The Sweater Shawl has been in the making for a year (or maybe a lifetime!), and now that it’s done, it has become a staple in my wardrobe. Over a coat, a buttondown shirt, a long sleeve T, I’ve worn it every which way. My favorite, of course, is over another sweater, because after all, I am a Serra, and for us, the more knits, the better! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoSweaterShawl. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 4 skeins of Anzula’s For Better or Worsted, 80% superwash merino wool, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon, or another worsted weight yarn. Each skein is 200 yards/ 100 grams; approximately 800 yards required. I used the color Navy.
- US 7 (4.5 mm), 16- or 24-inch circular needles
- Scrap yarn
Gauge
20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Size
- Back Height, from Cast On Edge to Bottom of Collar: 11 inches
- Back Width: 17 inches
- Collar Height: 4 inches
- Front Height, from Shoulder to Bound Off Edge of Ribbing: 29 inches
Notes
ss2togk [Slip 1, Slip 2 Together, Knit]: slip one knit-wise, slip next two together purl-wise, insert the left needle purl-wise into the front of the three slipped stitches, and knit the three stitches together. (2 stitches decreased)
k3togtbl [Knit 3 Together Through Back Loop]: insert the right needle knit-wise into the back of the first three stitches on the left needle, and knit the three stitches together. (2 stitches decreased)
Slip the slipped stitch at the beginning of the rows purlwise.
Pattern
Begin with Ribbing at Back
Cast on 86 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end.
Row 2: Slip 1, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 2 1/2 inches from cast on edge.
Continue in Lofty Brioche Stitch
Row 3 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k2, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [k2, p2] two times. (121 stitches)
Row 4 : Slip 1, k1, p2, k2, p2, *k1, Knit Two Together (k2tog), repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (86 stitches)
Row 5: Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k3, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last nine stitches, k1, [k2, p2] two times. (120 stitches)
Row 6: Slip 1, k1, [p2, k2] two times, *k2tog, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (86 stitches)
Repeat Rows 3-6 until piece measures 10 3/4 inches from cast on edge.
Repeat Rows 3-5 one time. (120 stitches)
Dividing for Right, Back Neck and Left
Row 7 (right side): Slip 1, k1, [p2, k2] two times, (k2tog, k1) 21 times, place previous 18 stitches on scrap yarn, *k2tog, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (86 stitches total: 34 stitches Right Side, 18 stitches on scrap yarn for Back Neck, 34 stitches Left Side)
Work Front Left Side
NOTE: For this section you will just be working the 34 stitches of the Front Left Side. You may want to put the 34 stitches for the Right Side on scrap yarn if it bothers you to work the Left Side with the Right Side stitches still on the needle. The stitch count in the following section is for the Left Side stitches only.
Row 8 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k2, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches (before stitches on holder), [k2, p2] two times. (9 stitch increase)
Row 9: Slip 1, k1, p2, k2, p2, ss2togk (see pattern notes above), *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (10 stitch decrease)
Row 10: Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k3, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [k2, p2] two times. (8 stitch increase)
Row 11: Slip 1, k1, p2, k2, p2, ss2togk, *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to last nine stitches, k1, [p2, k2] two times. (9 stitch decrease)
Repeat Rows 8-11 one more time. (30 stitches)
Row 12 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k2, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [k2, p2] two times. (37 stitches)
Row 13: Slip 1, k1, p2, k2, p2, *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (30 stitches)
Row 14: Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k3, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last nine stitches, k1, [k2, p2] two times . (36 stitches)
Row 15: Slip 1, k1, [p2, k2] two times, *k2tog, k1 repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (30 stitches)
Repeat Rows 12-15 one more time.
Row 16 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k2, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [k2, p2] two times. (7 stitches increased)
Row 17: Slip 1, k1, p2, k2, p2, m1R, *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (6 stitches decreased)
Row 18: Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k3, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [k2, p2] two times. (7 stitches increased)
Row 19: Slip 1, k1, p2, k2, p2, m1R, *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to last nine stitches, k1, [p2, k2] two times. (6 stitches decreased)
Repeat Rows 16-19 five more times. (42 stitches)
Row 20 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k2, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [k2, p2] two times. (55 stitches)
Row 21: Slip 1, k1, p2, k2, p2, *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (42 stitches)
Row 22: Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k3, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last nine stitches, k1, [k2, p2] two times. (54 stitches)
Row 23: Slip 1, k1, [p2, k2] two times, *k2tog, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (42 stitches)
Repeat Rows 20-23 until piece measures 37 1/2 inches from cast on edge.
Row 24 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end.
Row 25: Slip 1, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rows 24 and 25 until you have 2 1/2 inches of ribbing.
Bind off in pattern.
Working Front Right Side
NOTE: If you had chosen to put your Right Side stitches on a holder, now slip them back onto your needle. With the wrong side facing, join yarn.
Row 26 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k2, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [k2, p2] two times. (9 stitches increased)
Row 27: Slip 1, k1, p2, k2, p2, *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to last eleven stitches, k3togtbl (see pattern notes above), [p2, k2] two times. (10 stitches decreased)
Row 28: Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k2, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last nine stitches, k3, p2, k2, p2. (8 stitches increased)
Row 29: Slip 1, k1, [p2, k2] two times, *k2tog, k1 repeat from * to last thirteen stitches, k2tog, k3togtbl, [p2, k2] two times. (9 stitches decreased)
Repeat Rows 26-29 one more time. (30 stitches)
Row 30 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k2, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [k2, p2] two times. (37 stitches)
Row 31: Slip 1, k1, p2, k2, p2, *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (30 stitches)
Row 32: Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k3, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last nine stitches, k1, [k2, p2] two times. (36 stitches)
Row 33: Slip 1, k1, [p2, k2] two times, *k2tog, k1 repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (30 stitches)
Repeat Rows 30-33 one more time. (30 stitches)
Row 34 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k2, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [k2, p2] two times. (7 stitches increased)
Row 35: Slip 1, k1, p2, k2, p2, *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to last eight stitches, m1L, [p2, k2] two times. (6 stitches decreased)
Row 36: Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k2, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last nine stitches, k1, [k2, p2] two times. (7 stitches increased)
Row 37: Slip 1, k1, [p2, k2] two times, *k2tog, k1 repeat from * to last ten stitches, k2tog, m1L, [p2, k2] two times. (6 stitches decreased)
Repeat Rows 34-37 five more times. (42 stitches)
Row 38 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k2, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [k2, p2] two times. (55 stitches)
Row 39: Slip 1, k1, p2, k2, p2, *k1, k2tog, repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (42 stitches)
Row 40: Slip 1, p1, k2, p2, k3, *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from * to last nine stitches, k1, [k2, p2] two times. (54 stitches)
Row 41: Slip 1, k1, [p2, k2] two times, *k2tog, k1 repeat from * to last eight stitches, [p2, k2] two times. (42 stitches)
Repeat Rows 38-41 until piece measures 37 1/2 inches from cast on edge.
Row 42 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end.
Row 43: Slip 1, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rows 42 and 43 until you have 2 1/2 inches of ribbing.
Bind off in pattern.
Pick Up for Collar
With the right side facing, start at the Front Right Neck shaping and evenly pick up 32 stitches to the stitches on hold. Slip the 18 on-hold stitches onto the other end of the needle and knit them. Then evenly pick up 32 stitches to Front Left Neck shaping, as shown above.
Rib Collar
Row 44 (wrong side): Slip 1, p1, *k2, p2, repeat from * to end.
Row 45: Slip 1, k1, *p2, k2, repeat from * to end.
Repeat Rows 42 and 43 until you have 4 inches of ribbing.
Bind off in pattern.
Weave in your ends and you are finished! Yay!
Laura, me again. I have decided to undo the 32 rows I have knitted so far. I don’t want to keep guessing what it would have looked like if I had slipped those stitches purlwise!!
Elsje
I like your dedication!
Enjoy the project!!
Laura
Hi Laura, I still have one question. On January 17, 2014, you wrote to Sarah about the Fluffy Brioche Baby Blanket which uses the same stitch as this sweater shawl. I wonder if that is really the same stitch, since after the yo one has to slip a stitch with the yarn in back. How is that stitch then slipped, also pw?
Sorry for my time-consuming questions (and as I realize now some very dumb)! Elsje
Hi Elsje.
Good to hear from you! Yes, they are both Fluffy Brioche stitch.
This piece has 8 selvage (edge) stitches, but the repeat for the body of the fabric is *yo, slip 1, k1, repeat from *… The Fluffy Brioche Baby Blanket has a single selvage stitch on each edge, but the body of the fabric has a repeat of *yo, slip 1 wyib, k1, repeat from *… They are written a little differently, but the steps are the same. You yo bringing the yarn from the back to the front between your needles, then slip one, take the yarn from the front of the fabric over the top of the needle to the back in order to knit the following stitch.
I’m glad you wrote in, I am going to clean up that baby blanket pattern to make it more clear!
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
Is it possible to convert this circular pattern into a straight needle pattern? If so, can you print it up for me? I seem to be more comfortable with straight needles. Thank you. Vera
Hi Vera-
This pattern is not knit in the round so you can feel free to use straight needles without modifying the pattern. We use circular needles for everything, even when we are knitting flat because we like their feel and they store away easily.
I hope this answers your question. Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Hello Laura,
I have finished your beautiful Serra sweater shawl, and just tonight I rinsed it in Eucalan and placed it on a blocking mat. I wonder now if I should have done so, because it all became very soft and has less body. But perhaps when it has become dry it will again have its nice touch. I knitted it with a similar yarn as your Anzula.
What did you do after finishing your sweater, just weave in the ends? I realize you did not advise to block it but it seemed the only way to get the sides somewhat less curlier.
Thank you. Elsje
Hello Elsje!
We usually block our pattern samples in a very similar way as you did! Occasionally we gently steam them with a low heat iron as well. As for finishing, we simply wove in the ends and then continued to block the item.
Hope that helps! We’re glad you like this pattern! Enjoy! -Alyson
I absolutely love this pattern. I’m hoping to finish this for Christmas. I’m fairly new to knitting. I’m having a problems understanding the collar. Pick up 32 then the 18 and knit those, then pick up 32. How is the yarn handled? You knit the 18 and then the left 32 and then back over those 32, then the 18 again then the right 32? Please help. Thanks.
Hi Meg.
I’m glad you wrote in! The goal here is to pick up 32 stitches along the piece’s right neckline, then work across those 18 stitches along the back of the neckline and then pick up 32 stitches along the left neckline. When you’re “picking up”… insert your right needle into the fabric’s edge, wrap your working yarn around it as if to knit and then pull that strand of yarn back through the fabric’s edge. Once you “pick up” those 32, knit those 18 and then “pick up” the final 32, the working yarn will be right there with you, so that you can turn your work and begin ribbing!
Meg, I do hope this makes sense! Please don’t hesitate to write back in if you have any questions at all!
Laura
Laura, thank you for the quick response. I think I might understand. I will have to give it a try. Thanks again!
Hi, I just came across your Sweater Shawl and looking forward to try it. Been looking for something like that to add under a lighter coat for my walks in winter.
I do have a question regarding the size on here; what is the size and if I wanted a size 16 or 18 how do I go about increasing it?
Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Hi, Alice!
Thank you so much for writing! This project is more shawl than sweater so it dosent really have a size, but it’s measurements are as follows:
Back Height, from Cast On Edge to Bottom of Collar: 11 inches
Back Width: 17 inches
Collar Height: 4 inches Front Height
Front Shoulder to Bound Off Edge of Ribbing: 29 inches
If you would like to size this up, we have a couple of recommedations:
ONE
You could knit it in a thicker yarn at a different gauge which would scale up the design in size, but the pattern would remain the same. If you knit it at…
– 4 1/2 stitches to the inch, it would measure approx 19 inches across the back
– 4 stitches to the inch, it would measure approx 21 1/2 inches across the back
Here are two links to some thicker yarns:
– https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters=6
– https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters=7
OR, TWO
You could cast on a larger number of even stitches and re-work the pattern. Unfortunately, we do not have the resources to re-size the pattern for you right now.
I hope this helps. If you decide to size it up yourself and have specific questions about it, please write in!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Hello!
This is a beautiful pattern- thank-you for sharing! I’m having trouble with my stitch count in the brioche pattern though- an odd thing for me as I’m a relatively experienced knitter.
I’ve counted every row of stitches as I knit to make sure that I’m maintaining the correct number and yet no matter what I do, by the time I’ve finished row 6 I only have 85 sts, not 86 and I’ve no idea why. Has anyone else had this trouble? Row 5 had the proper 120 sts and I’ve knit across row 6 so that the k st and the yo st are the 2 being ktog and the slip is being knitted on it’s own and I’ve tried it the other way around (by mistake) but get the same results either way. Any advice? Thanks!
Hi Seana,
Sorry for the late reply! I’m also confused as to why you’d end up with 85 stitches instead of 86. Firstly, are your selvedges the same? Maybe you are missing a stitch in the selvedge? Also, if having 85 stitches doesn’t affect the knitting pattern, then you might have found a flaw in our pattern. If so, let us know and we will discuss this pattern on our end and edit if necessary. Thanks a lot and let us know!
-Adam
HI Adam!
Thanks for getting back to me. Solved my issue but couldn’t delete the comment so waited to reply. Missed the extra K2 before the brioche on the one row. All is working beautifully now! 🙂 cheers!
Could I do fisherman’s rib instead of brioche st?
Hi Joyce,
Great question! In this instance, substituting Fisherman’s rib for brioche would result in a totally different look. This is a lofty brioche that is offset instead of acting like a rib and thus looks very different to a fisherman’s rib. I’d give the lofty brioche a try and see how you like it! We think that it creates a really lovely texture!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
I have a question regarding the slip stitches at the beginning of each row. Am I supposed to have the yarn in front when I am slipping the stitch of the wrong side row? I haven’t been doing that and my selvedges look different from each other and I just noticed it after about 50 rows, bummer.
Hi Morgan,
Thank you for your question and sorry for the late response! Yes, you should be slipping with the yarn in front for the wrong side. Generally, patterns will just say “slip 1” if the yarn is already in the position it’s needed to be in for the slip stitch. Maybe you could switch it up for the rest of the piece! I don’t think that it would be so noticeable to anyone but you 🙂
Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
Thank you for getting back to me, I actually pulled it all out and started over. Now I’m at the part where I pick up stitches for the collar. It’s a little wonky, should I block what I have done before moving on to the collar?
Hi Morgan,
Glad you are on your way with the correct edging. I think that you can continue with the collar and block the piece after it’s complete. When picking up stitches you are essentially hiding the “wonky edge” by introducing a new seam along the neckline. I’m sure everything will turn out great!
-Adam
Is there any chance that you might have the pattern just for the long, front sections?
I love the look, but just want to make a simple scarf.
Hi Rosamond,
Thanks for writing in! The long, front sections are in fluffy brioche stitch, which is explained in the pattern. Thanks!
-Adam
Hello from South Africa. I love this pattern, but would prefer to knit it in stockinette stitch. Do you have a pattern conversion please?
Hi Erica,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! We do not have a way to convert this easily to stockinette. You can certainly try omitting the texture but also beware that you will need to add in an edging to prevent the stockinette from curling if you would like to knit just stockinette.
Please do not hesitate to contact us with any further questions!
Cassy
Thanks Cassy, I will certainly give it a try! Perhaps if I slip the first stitch in each row, I will get a similar effect.
Hi Erica,
Thanks for writing back! Slipping the edge stitch will certainly give you a clean edge but I am afraid that it will not prevent rolling. You might want to try a few stitches of ribbing after the slip 1 and that should do the trick!
Happy knitting!
Cassy
Just starting this project….are the yo instructions for the shawl the same as the ones you shared for the baby blanket? Thank you. R Schenk
Hi there,
Thanks for the question. If you are referring to the Fluffy Brioche Blanket, then yes, the yarn over is the same technique.
Best,
Adam
I have been wanting to knit this elegant shawl since it was first published years ago but I read too many warnings about the difficulties of brioche and it put me off. I found a knitting guru to help me get started and I’m so glad I did because the lofty brioche stitch isn’t nearly the monster I feared. My advice, just knit it. This is a tailored shawl with beautiful details like the finished edge that creates a frame aeound the highly textured brioche stitch and my favorite, the regal stand up collar.
That being said, after following the written pattern, I preferred the look of the wrong side edge for the right side edge because I thought it looked nicer. My guru reworked the pattern and I’m loving the look so much, I am working on two at the same time.
Thank you for sharing this beautiful pattern. I’ve gained so much knitting confidence, I’m even looking forward to blocking!
Hi!
I am planning on making this for my mom for mother’s day. She’s taking me to Italy, so this is the perfect gift! I’m worried that I don’t have enough time to make this. How many hours approximately do you think this project is? I’m an intermediate knitter.
Thank you!
R
Hi Riley,
Thank you for your question! It’s always difficult to gauge how long a project might take since everyone knits at different speeds and has varying amounts of time that they can devote to knitting each day! Additionally, your comfort with and knowledge of the techniques used can add effect the amount of time that a project takes. With all of that in mind, I am unable to give you a good idea of how much time this lovely shawl will take you. If you have made a project that uses a similar amount of worsted weight yarn (roughly 800 yards), that would be a good gauge. That said, the designer of this lovely shawl knit it in roughly 8-10 days although, she has quite a lot more time to allot to knitting than most.
I am sorry that I could not be more specific!
Cassy
My question is when you write repeat rows 3-6 is it rows 3 to 6 or rows 3 and 6.
Thanking you for your answer
Hi Helene,
For this pattern, you will be repeating rows 3 through 6 until you reach the required measurement. One you have reached this measurement, You will then repeat rows 3 through 5 one more time.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Thank you Melissa for your prompt response , it is greatly appreciated.
Hélène
I knit rows 8 through 11 Working The Front Left Side. The 11th row should have 34 stitches + 9 st increase – 10 st decrease + 8 st increase – 9 st decrease = 32 stitches. So far…so good and my stitch count agrees with the pattern. I knit row 8 again and I only have 40 stitches instead of the required 41 (32 stitches for row 11 + 9 st increase). I need 41 stitches on this row if I am to finish on the 2nd repeat of row 11 with 30 stitches. There are 8 repeats of (yo, slip 1, k1) + 16 stitches for stitches knit on the ends of the row = 40 stitches. Will you please tell me where i went wrong. I do not want to knit a stitch anywhere within the row and then have the pattern not consistent. Thanks!
Hi Barbara,
Thank you so much for your patience! I think that I have figured it out! On the second time through the 4 rows, you will increase of decrease by 1 fewer each row. At the end of the first go around of rows 8-11, you will have 32 stitches and after the second go around, you will have 30 stitches. I have written out the stitch counts and increases/decreases for each row below!
First repeat:
Row 8: 43 (+9 stitches)
Row 9: 33 (-10 stitches)
Row 10: 41 (+8 stitches)
Row 11: 32 (-9 stitches)
Second repeat:
Row 8: 40 (+8 stitches)
Row 9: 31 (-9 stitches)
Row 10: 38 (+7 stitches)
Row 11: 30 (-8 stitches)
I hope that this helps clear things up! Thank you again for your patience!
Cassy
Cassy:
Thank you so much for the help! I look forward to working on this beautiful sweater shawl over the holiday!
Hi,
I was transcribing, on X-cell row by row, the sleeve pattern. It is easier, for me, to follow the pattern. I noticed that on rows 28 et 36 it is written Sl1,p1,k2,p2,k2 *yo, slip 1, k1* up to the last 9 stitches than k3 p2, k2, p2. In the pattern for the back it’s k3 instead of k2, Is there a transcribing error. Secondly, what does it mean
m1R and m1L.
Awaiting your answer so I can continue knitting my sweater shawl.
Thank you in advance
Hélène
Hi Helene,
Thanks for writing in! For rows 28 and 36, the last 9 stitches will be worked differently for the two rows while the rest of the stitches are worked the same! On row 28, the last 9 stitches will be k3, p2, k2, p2 and on row 36, the last 9 stitches will be k1, [k2, p2] two times OR written out more completely k1, k2, p2, k2, p2.
M1R and M1L are leaning increases! We have a great tutorial for both that can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/make-one-right-m1r-make-one-left-m1l/
I hope that this helps clear things up!
Cassy
I really love this but would like to make it as a scarf without splitting into two sides.
How would I continue after the part where you say to divide into left and right sides? Thanks so much.
Marcia
Hello Maria,
Thanks for reaching out! If you would like This to be a scarf you would just repeat rows 3-6 until piece measures your desired length.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello,
This shawl looks absolutely lovely, I am looking forward to start knitting it! I am petite and was keen to reduce the size slightly (from a width of 17 inches across the back to about 13 inches). Would you recommend doing this by choosing a thinner yarn, or by reducing the number of stitches and scaling the pattern down?
Many thanks in advance for your help!
Felicity
Hi Felicity,
Thanks for reaching out! Much of the shaping in the later parts of the shawl is dependent on the number of stitches cast on for the back, so I don’t think I would recommend casting on fewer stitches. If you do end up using a thinner yarn and smaller needles, just be sure to knit a gauge swatch and make sure your gauge will result in the width you desire!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I have just finished the back of the pattern w/ the Repeat Rows
3-5 one more time. There is no right side Row 6 mentioned. Goes right to Row 7 designated as a right side row. I must be missing something and would definitely appreciate your help.
Hello Rebecca,
Thank you for reaching out! This is correct, after you repeat 3-5 one more time you will jump to row 7 making it a right side row. I know this is a bit confusing, but it will work!
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I don’t see ss2k in the pattern notes…I’m guessing it’s ss2togk? However, I need clarification please…in the parentheses is one decrease and then there’s the 2nd which takes 3 stitches down to one…I know it’s late at my house but that’s more than 2 stitches decreased. Thanks again. Rebecca
Hi Rebecca,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately I can’t find a ss2k in the pattern – can you clarify which row you are looking at?
Best,
Julianna
Julianna – first of all, I can’t get over how quickly my questions are answered! I’m going to reprint my pattern…..I think I’ve missed some updates! Many thanks. I thought you would like to know that searching for Laura’s Loop Sweater Shawl pattern on the Purl Soho website shows zero results…..Rebecca
Hi Rebecca,
We’re so happy to help, and I hope the latest download is more clear! I’ve forwarded the search issue to our web team to get it resolved as soon as possible!
Best,
Julianna
Hope do I get the pattern for the sweater shawl printed off.. no place does it say print
Hi Keitha,
Thanks for writing in! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
First, I hope you all at the store and warehouse are doing well and taking good care of yourselves thru this pandemic. (Me, it gives me the reason to hunker down and knit! Yay!)
I’m relatively new to knitting – I can knit anything (reasonably) rectangular and thought I’d try my hand at this wonderful sweater shawl. No problems — thank you for the great directions! My problem is with the curling of the “arms” in front. I can’t get the curl out of the edging. Do you have any suggestions for me to try? Thanks in advance!
Hi Ruby,
Thank you so much for the kind words – we hope you are taking care as well! The edging on this pattern is supposed to curl to the wrong, creating a somewhat rolled appearance on the edges and even the illusion that there are full three-dimensional sleeves instead of long strips. You can especially see this in our third picture, which shows the edging curling towards the wrong side of the back of the shawl.
Although it won’t go away entirely, everything will lay much flatter after blocking!
Best,
Julianna
I absolutely love your sweater shawl but I am having a terrible time with the stitch count starting from the one Repeat of rows 12-15. First question, how many stitches should I have after that repeat? Then for rows 16-19 for a total of 6 times… I would appreciate the stitch count on each row of the 6 repeats along with the stitches increased or decreased. Thank you so very much. Becky
Hi Becky,
Thanks for reaching out! When you repeat rows 12-15, your stitch counts will be the same as the first time you knitted rows 12-15, so the stitch counts are still correct. For Row 16 through 19 however, your stitch counts will change, so I would recommend keeping track on paper or to the side on your pattern using the information at the end of each row showing how the stitches will change. For instance, you will be starting with 30 stitches, and the first time you knit row 16 you will increase 7 stitches, to 37 stitches. Row 17 decreases 6 stitches, so you will then have 31 stitches, Row 18 increases 7 stitches so you will have 38 stitches, and row 19 decreases 6 stitches, so you will end with 32 stitches after the first repeat of rows 16 through 19. You can repeat this math for each repeat to make sure your stitches are correct at the end of every row.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hello,
I’m a brand new knitter and was hoping to use your beautiful pattern to make this shawl. I was wondering if you have a youtube video of this pattern (I am more of a visual learner) and if there are ways to edit your patter to change the size of the back and arms for a smaller person. Thank you for sharing this pattern!
Hi Angela,
Thanks for writing in. I’m sorry to say that we don’t have a video for this pattern in particular, but we do have a number of helpful tutorials, many of which include videos! You can find those here. As for altering the size of the pattern, it’s fairly easy to make shorter. You can just work the rows in the back and sleeve sections for fewer inches! I hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Hello, I think the curling is happenening because there too many rows in the edge ribbing. The brioche pattern accounts for shorter/tighter rows due to the slipped stitches . I’ve already made one sleeve but i’m afraid the curl wont come out with the blocking. does this make sense to you?
Hi Maria,
I’m sorry to hear that you’re experiencing curling in your project! Would you be able to send a photo of your work to customerservice@purlsoho.com? That way, we’ll be able to visualize exactly what’s going on and troubleshoot from there!
All the best,
Lili