Fisherman’s Rib Scarf and Cowl
How can any knitter resist a stitch pattern called “Fisherman’s Rib”? The name evokes all our most romantic knitting associations: rugged men in densely cabled sweaters materializing out of the fog, abeam a windswept Scottish cliff. Luckily, Fisherman’s Rib is as beautiful (and practical) as its name implies, lofty, springy, and super cozy.
But, let’s face it, most of us aren’t as rugged as your average fisherman. You will rarely hear a fisherman say anything like, “It’s lovely, but maybe a little bit scratchy, don’t you think?”. So for the rest of us, I used the Fisherman’s Rib, but not his yarn.
Instead, I took this opportunity to return to one of my very favorite yarns, The Fibre Company’s Road to China Worsted. I used it three years ago for the Sullivan Street Bolero and have never forgotten its amazing softness and drape. It’s such a gorgeous blend of baby alpaca, cashmere, camel, and silk that even the most unweathered on your gift list will be happy with a Fisherman’s Rib Scarf or Cowl. Just don’t give one to the fisherman in your life. He would never look at his guernseys the same again.
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Whitney Van Nes.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoFishermansRibHatAndCowl. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
Scarf
- 6 skeins of The Fibre Company’s Road to China Worsted, 65% Baby Alpaca, 15% Silk, 10% Cashmere, and 10% Camel. Each skein of this worsted-weight yarn is 60 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 360 yards required. This is the color Lapis.
- US 9 (5.5 mm) straight or 16-inch circular needles
Cowl
- 3 skeins of The Fibre Company’s Road to China Worsted, 65% Baby Alpaca, 15% Silk, 10% Cashmere, and 10% Camel. Each skein of this worsted-weight yarn is 60 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 180 yards required. This is the color Lapis.
- US 9, 16-inch circular needle
Shop our wonderful collection of aran + worsted-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
GAUGE
16 stitches = 4 inches in stitch pattern (unstretched)
SIZES
SCARF
7½ inches wide (unstretched) and 62 inches long (unstretched), stretching to about 80 inches long.
COWL
17½ inches circumference (unstretched), stretching to about 28 inches in circumference, and 10½ inches tall
Notes
How to “Knit Into the Stitch Below”
Insert your right needle into the space right below the next stitch, shown here by the white arrow.
Knit as you normally would, allowing the stitch to fall off the left needle as usual (feels a little scary at first, but don’t worry!).
If you turn your work over, you will see that 2 stitches are wrapped around the stitch you just made.
How To “Purl Into the Stitch Below”
Insert your right needle from back to front (just like normal purling) into the space below the next stitch, right under the purl bump. The white arrow shows the spot.
Purl as you normally would, allowing the stitch to fall off the left needle as usual.
If you look below the stitch you just made, you will see that it is wrapped by 2 stitches.
Scarf Pattern
Cast on 30 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Preparation Row: Purl.
Row 1: *P1, knit into the stitch below, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. (See instructions below for how to “knit into the stitch below”.)
Repeat Row 1 until you have used all 6 skeins, except for about 2 yards.
Bind off loosely in p1, k1 pattern (you don’t have to knit into the stitch below for your bind off.).
Weave in the ends.
Cowl Pattern
Cast 70 stitches onto a 16-inch circular needle. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Place a marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Preparation Round: Knit.
Round 1: *Knit into the stitch below, p1, repeat from * to end of round. (See instructions above for how to “knit into the stitch below”.)
Round 2: *K1, purl into the stitch below, repeat from * to end of round. (See instructions below for how to “purl into the stitch below’)
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until piece measures 10 1/2 inches from the cast on edge.
Bind off very loosely (use a needle one or two sizes bigger if you have to) in k1, p1 pattern (you don’t need to work into the stitch below for the bind off.).
Weave in the ends.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Beautiful scarf and cowl! One suggestion, post the Ravelry project link so it's easy to find and put in one's queue. Thanks!
Wonderful!! they are beautiful and I love the color! Thank you also for the explanation on knitting into the stitch below….I had no clue and it never made sense before!!
Carmel
Lovely clear directions, thank you! Nic x
Please recommend your best cast on for the cowl. I have heard about the old Norwegian cast on, but I don't know it. Thank you very much.
Joanne
Hi! I love this pattern. Is there anything special that needs to be done to adapt the scarf for straight needles?
Hi KC,
No need to adapt the scarf for straight needles. Just follow the pattern as you normally would. Enjoy!
I've been knitting this, and I highly suggest slipping the first stitch of every row. Otherwise, at least with the yarn I've been using, you get strange, bumpy gapping on the edges.
It's a fantastic pattern, by the way. Absolutely marvelous.
So anxious to get started on a scarf for my son. I’ll be using three strands: Fibre Co. Acadia in navy; Tosh Merino Light in Great Grey Owl; Tosh Merino Light in Charcoal. It’s to simulate what he has requested.
Before I begin that there aren’t any actual P into the row below stitches in this pattern?? You’ve just demonstrated that in your images. In case I see this again, is the symbol for purling into the row below denoted by P1b?
Thank you so much for your help,
Ann
Hello Ann,
Thank you for reaching out- this sounds like it will come out beautifully! While there is no purl into the stitch below in the scarf patter there is in the cowl pattern. This is why there is a photo tutorial on this page about how to purl into the stitch below. Though we don’t abbreviate purl one below in this pattern, you are correct that the abbreviation would be P1b.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
Thanks for this pattern 🙂 I just finished a scarf for my brother with your pattern ! ^^
Do you have a tutorial on how to un-knit a K1B? I am a beginner and am not sure of how to get back to fix a stitch.
Hi Jeri,
We don't have a tutorial but I can try to walk you through the steps, which are a little tricky!
First, put the left needle into the stitch below the one you want to remove. Take the stitch off the right needle. Then, with your right needle, pass the second stitch over the first stitch (which looks like a loose strand). You will be left with a knit stitch on the left needle that is facing the wrong way. Replace it so it's correctly oriented and you're finally done!
I hope this helps and good luck!
Whitney
Would a sport weight yarn work as well?
Hi Celia-
Unfortunately sport weight yarn won't work for this pattern because the gauge is thicker. But the stitch pattern will still work for any weight of yarn.
Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
I agree with previous commenter. Knitting as prescribed with that purl stitch as the first stitch of the row makes the edge completely wonky. I actually can't believe a slipped edge isn't worked into this pattern – unless I'm doing something wrong. Going to rip out and try with a slipped edge. But wonderful stitch; it's a nice variation of a classic!
Why are you bothering to switch k/p, back and forth? This pattern comes out exactly the same if you just knit 1, knit 1 in the row below. When you knit in the row below, essentially you are undoing the stitch that would look 'wrong' (as if it were purled) — it just comes out, and leaves the stitch in the row below, which is facing the right way. And in the valleys, that stitch just gets swallowed or enfolded. The whole thing looks beautiful, and the yarn stays in back the whole time!
I agree – by knitting every stitch (ie k1, k1 below) you get exactly the same fabric, and I find knitting into the purl bump when you do the k1 below easier than k1 below-ing into a knit stitch.
🙂
Thank you for clearing this up for me! I was taught Fisherman’s Rib the Purl Soho way (and I knit a lot of seed stitch, so the yarn front-to-back switch doesn’t bother me.) I had seen it written as k1, k1b on other sites, and it was really confusing me!
HI-
How do you do the k1, p1 bindoff at the end?
Thanks
Alice
Hi Turefeather77,
Cool! I haven't done it, but I take your word! Thanks so much for the tip!
Whitney
Hi Alice,
You work a k1, p1 bind off just like a regular bind off, but instead of knitting every stitch, you knit 1, then purl 1.
It's really similar to a knit bind off, but this way, you keep the stitch pattern going so that your last round looks neat!
Thanks for asking and good luck!
Whitney
HI Whitney-
Thanks for that advice. I did it but the edging/Opeining is now so tight. Did i do something wrong?
Thanks
Alice
Hi Alice,
Bind off rounds do have a tendency to get taut. Lots of knitters bind off with a needle one or two sizes bigger than the needle they used to knit the piece. Or you can just keep in mind that you want to knit your bind off very loosely.
Another option is to explore less conventional bind off techniques that address this problem. We have a tutorial for a great one right here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/bind-off-elizabeth-zimmermans/2012/3/16/bind-off-the-elizabeth-zimmerman-way.html
I hope this helps!
Whitney
this pattern is not suitable 4 a gurl is it
Hi ikeuchiaya-
This pattern would be too large for a 4 year old girl.
Thank you for your question!
Molly
for those who slip d first stitch,did u add extra stitch or juz fixed with 30..
n i found this from a book,its fisherman ribs bt d instructions….CO odd no..then knit 1 row..then Row1(RS):s1.*k1b.p1*2 end…Row2:s1 *p1.k1b* las 2 stitches p1.k1..rep R1 n R2…do u think ill stil get d same pattern as urs? coz i dun hve much time..so i dont tink i can do try n error..thanx
Hi ikeuchiaya,
Usually if you're going to slip the first stitch, you incorporate that stitch into the pattern. In other words, you don't add an extra stitch.
I don't think you'll get exactly this stitch pattern with the instructions you give, although you will get a nice a lofty rib of some sort!
Thanks for your questions and good luck!
Whitney
Thanx Whitney..so that means ill have only p1 at the end of each row rite??thanx once again
Hi ikeuchiaya,
Yes, if I understand you correctly, that's true. Just to clarify… If you want to slip the first stitch of each row, the pattern would read like this:
Row 1: Slip 1, * knit into the stitch below, p1 repeat from * to last stitch, p1.
I hope this helps! Thanks again for your asking!
Whitney
Hi Whitney,
I tried this pattern and got a strange knobby edge from the first purl stitch. I ripped my work out because I couldnt fix a dropped stitch. I'm a beginner.
Before starting over just wanted to ask you, if I use the slip the first stitch pattern do I need a preparation row of purl stitches? If so, do I slip the first purl stitch?
Thank you
Natalia
Hi Natalia,
If you plan to slip the first stitch of every row, you do still need a preparation row of purl stitches. You might as well also slip the first stitch of that row, although if you didn't, it would be very hard to tell!
I hope you're happy with your second attempt, and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Thanks!
Whitney
Hi Whitney
My second attempt was turning out really nice. I'm was excited about this scarf until I dropped a purl stitch. I looked at a video on fixing purl stitches but this pattern's purl stitch looks different. Can you please explain how to fix this mistake? Thanks a million.
I love this yarn, it's so soft!
All the best,
Natalia
Hi! I love this scarf and would love to make it for a scarfaphobic man in my life…is there a comperable (soft) yarn to sub in as you no longer carry this one? It sounded like such a soft combination!
Thank you!
Eliza
HI Eliza,
Sure! I'd suggest you check out Blue Sky's Worsted: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/711-Blue-Sky-Worsted-Hand-Dyes . Also, Jade Sapphire's 8 Ply Cashmere: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/819-Jade-Sapphire-8-ply-Cashmere . And Manos del Uruguay's Maxima: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/7529-Manos-Del-Uruguay-Maxima .
All of those are really soft and beautiful, and for even more options, you can browse through all of our worsted weight yarns right here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?filters%5B%5D=6 . Please let us know if you have any questions about any of your options!
Thank you for asking and good luck!
Whitney
How many skeins of the Manos Del Uruguay do you suggest? I compared the lengths and guessed two. I just want to make sure I order the correct amount of yarn for the scarf.
Thanks,
Amy
Hi Amy,
Thank you for the comment! The Manos del Uruguay would be a beautiful substitute and yes you will probably use exactly 2 skeins and have a few yards to spare!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Can the cowl be worked in 2 colors? For example the knit row in red and the pearl row in black. It sounds like it would work just thought I would see if anyone has tried that. Thanks I love this scarf and would like to make the cowl.
I decided to give it a whirl in 2 colors. Here’s how I did the cowl:
— CO in color A and join. Knit the prep row in color A.
— Switch to color B. Work Row 1 of the Cowl in color B.
— Switch to color A. Work Row 2 of the Cowl in color A.
Repeat rows 1 and 2, switching colors each row, until you get to the size you want. I plan on knitting on row in color A and casting off in color A, just to match the cast on and prep rows. Besides, I have more A than B…
So far, I’m getting a lovely squishy reversible two-color cowl out of it.
Hi tj,
Cool idea! We'd love to see how it turns out!
Whitney
Hello,
I am confused about what the exact pattern is if I am slipping the first stitch of each row when making the cowl. In the original pattern you have a preparation row of knit stitches but in response to a question on April 1 2013 you talk about a preparation row of purl stitches. So I’m confused. Could you please send me the complete cowl pattern if one is slipping the first stitch of every row?
Thank you very much
Hi Susan,
The scarf starts with a preparation row of purl stitches, and the cowl starts with a preparation row of knit stitches, so that’s probably what’s confusing you!
And for the cowl, you really wouldn’t slip the first stitch of each round since the first stitch is not along the selvage edge. In the case of the cowl, the selvage edges are the cast on and bind off rounds.
I hope this straightens things out for you. Thanks for your questions and please let us know if you have any more!
Whitney
Thank you for the pictures! This is the best explanation for this stitch that I have ever seen.
Can I use Road to China Light yarn? What difference will it make vs your worsted weight yarn?
Hi Ellyn-
I don’t know the gauge of Road to China Light but I think it’s a lot lighter weight than the Worsted used here. You can still use it to knit a scarf or cowl in Fisherman’s Rib using smaller needles but you would have to cast on more stitches, just make sure you cast on an even number.
You can determine your cast on number by knitting a swatch in this pattern using the needles recommended for the Road to China Light. Once you determine how many stitches you are getting per inch you can multiply that number by 7 1/2 for the scarf or 17 1/2 for the cowl and then round to the nearest even number to get to your cast on number.
Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck with the project!
Molly
Hi purlbee, I just finished my Fishermans Rib Knit scarf and I just LOVE this pattern!! I received alot of compliments on the scarf because along with myself, other people loved how it came out SO thick and bulky and my son really loved it, he wears it all the time proudly…. I happily tell others that I got the pattern from you, and I plan to make more for the next Winter ahead of time and can’t wait to try your other BEAUTIFUL patterns, thank you for sharing!! 🙂
Beautiful patterns! I have a question though – when i started knitting the cowl i noticed that my stitches were leaning on one side, i mean going slightly like a spiral not straight columns. For sure i am the one doing something wrong. DO you think the type of cast on matters (i used estonian stretchy cast on)? I did everything the way it should be.Any thoughts?Advise?
Thank you
Hi Konstantina,
Thank you for the comment! I can’t imagine that the cast on would create something that would continue throughout the whole pattern as you described. Are you sure you don’t twist either your knit or purl stitches? That depends on how you enter the stitch so I would pay attention to that and maybe compare with some knitting videos or tutorials to see if that’s the problem.
Let me know if any of these fix the issue and if not feel free to write back and I’ll keep brainstorming!
Good Luck!
Jake
Hi there, will merino script work with this? Thank you!
Hello Jean,
Merino Script does have a similar gauge to Road to China Worsted, but its slightly puffier because of the thick and thin quality. It would definitely work, but I would recommend doing a small test swatch to see if you like how the slub quality works with the stitch pattern.
Thanks for writing in and best of luck! -Alyson
Didn’t have to look far for this EASY tutorial.. This did the trick for me, THANKS! Just beginning an Infinity scarf and now I am on track.., Cheers!
We’re so glad this worked out for you, Melinda! Happy knitting! -Alyson
Is this cowl a multiple of a certain number of stitches. I want to make it with a bulkier yarn and wondered how I can change it up. Thanks!!
Hello Dawn!
Fisherman’s rib in the round simply requires an even number of stitches so that the pattern lines up easily. I would create a gauge swatch and determine how many stitches per inch with your bulky yarn you create and then multiply by 17.5″ when measuring the unstretched gauge.
Hope this helps! Best of luck! -Alyson
Hi, please can you tell me the weight of a skein of wool used for the scarf, is it 100g?
Many thanks
Ann
Hi Ann,
Thanks for writing in! The Road to China Worsted comes in 50 gram skeins that are 69 yards long.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Google is coming up with a privacy alert when I clicked on your link. Hoping you already know and working to get it fixed.
Hello Suzie,
Thank you so much for alerting us! I have contacted the web team and we are resolving the issue. Please try the site again and let us know how it works for you. We always love feedback!
Best,
Adam
To make the scarf into a snood would it just sew the cast on and cast off edges together please
Hello, Jeannette!
Thank you for writing in! If you were to sew the two ends of the scarf together you would get something akin to a long cowl, similar to our Striped Cotton Cowl or our Gradient Cowl in Linen Quill. To get more of a snood-like cowl (similar to our Super Soft Merino Fluted Cowl) you may want to increase the width of the scarf from 7 1/2-inches wide to about 14-inches wide.
Again, thank you for writing in and please let us know if you have further questions!
Best,
Kumeko
I would like to make this cowl using cascade 128 superwash. Should I still cast on 70 stitches? Thank you!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! Cascade 128 Superwash is a bit thicker than the yarn that we used here. You will probably need to go up to a US 10 needle. To determine your cast on number, you will need to knit a gauge swatch in pattern, unstretched. Then, measure the number of stitches that you are getting per inch. You will multiply the number of stitches per inch that you are getting by 17 1/2 inches for the cowl and cast on the nearest even number!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello,
I would like to knitting a cowl with this pattern for my 10 years old nephew. Is the cowl pattern use an even or odd numbers stitches ?
How many stitches I should cast on for a child size (cowl pattern) ?
Thank you so much for the beautiful pattern
Jenny Ngo
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for writing in! For a child, a good cowl measurement would be 17-18 inches in circumference and 10-11 inches from bottom to top. As this cowl is 17 1/2 unstretched, it could work well for a child (there is quite a lot of stretch so it can grow with your nephew). If you would like it to be a bit smaller, this pattern will work for any even number of stitches. You could cast on a few fewer stitches to make it a bit smaller.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, I would like to know how many meters of wool is needed for the scarf? Thank you ?
Hi Roxanne,
Thanks for reaching out! We used about 380 meters for this scarf. I hope you enjoy the Fisherman’s Rib – it is such an interesting, fun stitch!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Is there any simple help for picking up a dropped stitch on the selvage edge? I found a tutorial for dropped stitches in the body but it doesn’t help with the edges.
Thanks kindly.
Hi Laury,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, I’ve found that the easiest and best-looking way to repair fisherman’s rib is to rip back the rounds or rows until you come to a mistake-free round or row. I know this does not sound appealing, but in all my trials and tribulations with this stitch it is quite difficult to make the stitch look the same as the rest. I would suggest putting a locking stitch marker in the dropped stitch so that it does not travel any further while you tip back.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
what ply wool would I use ….8ply? I have not heard of The road to China Worsted woool. would it matter what brand I use. I live in Australia. Heather
Hi Heather,
Thanks for reaching out! A US worsted weight yarn is equivalent to an Australian 10 ply yarn, so you could substitute any 10 ply yarn you have available.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
When knitting fisherman rib, is the pre blocked gauge different from the blocked gauge? When measuring for gauge, should the sample be stretched slightly or left as is? I find getting gauge difficult in fisherman rib.
Hi Mary,
Thanks for reaching out! Fisherman’s Rib usually relaxes and has a wider gauge after blocking, though how much it relaxes depends on what yarn you use, so you should always block your gauge swatch before measuring. After blocking, since the stitches relax, it shouldn’t be necessary to stretch the swatch at all when measuring it.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello! I’d love to make this cowl for my partner, but it seems that this particular yarn (the fibre company’s road to china worsted) has been discontinued. Do you have any yarn that you’d suggest for this fisherman cowl? Looking for something warm and soft against the skin.
Thanks for any suggestions!
Hi Ashley,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes that is correct, we no longer cary that yarn but we have some great alternatives! I would suggest our Worsted Twist, Cashmere Tend or even JADE SAPPHIRE 8-Ply Cashmere!
I hope this helps and please let us know how it turns out!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am knitting a fisherman’s rib scarf. I am 2/3 of the way into the scarf. I just started the third skein and realized that there is a slight color difference. This is not dyed yarn, so there is no dye lot. I was wondering if I could knit half of the skein on one end of the scarf and then go back and add on to the other end. The problem is that I think the stitch would be upside down, with the rib points facing the wrong direction. Any. Idea how I could do this?
Hi Robin,
Thanks for reaching out! Since Big Good Wool is undyed and is completely natural, this yarn depends on the sheeps’ coloring, colors may vary from skein to skein. I recommend transitioning skeins by working alternating rows of the old skein and new skein for a 5 or 6 rows to gently transition from one to the other, this works especially well when there are color differences so that there is not a sharp line between one skein ending and a new one beginning!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Good idea. Thank you.
I’m a little confused by the scarf pattern, is there supposed to be a row2?
Hi Liz,
Thanks for reaching out! For the scarf, there is no row 2, you will work row 1: *P1, knit into the stitch below, repeat from * to last 2 stitches, p2. (See instructions below for how to “knit into the stitch below”.) and then you will simply repeat Row 1 until you have used all 6 skeins, except for about 2 yards.
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Thank you!
I am also confused about following pattern as written. You talk about P below and show it in the instructions but it does not appear in the pattern – which is why I, too, was confused about what to do with Row 2. Clarify, please:) Are we meant to just ignore the P B instructions?
Hi Vanessa,
Thanks for reaching out. If you’re making the Cowl, then you’ll need to work a purl into the stitch below in Round 2! If you’re making the Scarf, then you can ignore these instructions, because the entire pattern is simply a repeat of Row 1. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I am at the end of a skein, how would you recommend I add a new ball of yarn? Just as I would with a regular stitch?
Hi Jamie,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, you can add a new ball just as you would with a regular stitch, I would suggest checking out our lovely tutorial Adding a Ball of Yarn!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
How many stitches for a Super Bulky (6) size yarn? I’ve been attempting to make a fisherman’s rib in lionbrand thick & quick for quite some time.
Hi Josh,
To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest even number of stitches. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! Wondering if I could use a different cast on for the cowl? If so, what would you recommend?
Thanks! Carrie
Hi Carrie,
We prefer the long tail cast-on for this project, but you could absolutely use a different cast-on method! Did you have any others in mind yet? If so, I’d be happy to let you know if I’d recommend using them with fisherman’s rib or not. But the long tail cast-on is what I’d recommend over all!
All the best,
Lili
Hi, what an awesome pattern! I have made two of these scarves for my nephews, to rave reviews. One of them went to Montreal without a coat and it “saved my life”! The other one went on a date and it seems that the scarf brought them closer together! I have a question: it says the scarf is 62 inches long unstretched and 80 inches long stretched. Should I have stretched this out when blocking?? I didn’t actually block them as I wanted them as squishy they were. Thanks!
Hi Carey,
Thank you for writing in! Yes, we recommend blocking your project to the written dimensions after finishing. If you prefer not to block, you can always just knit to the recommended length as well.
Happy making,
Gavriella