Mary Lou’s Holiday Stocking

This charming Holiday Stocking pattern was created for The Purl Bee by Mary Lou Risely, a longtime teacher at, and dear friend of, Purl. If all of these techniques are new to you, we’re offering a class to make this stocking at Purl. –Thank you Mary Lou!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, and #PurlSohoMaryLousHolidayStocking. We can’t wait to see what you make!
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Materials
- Main Color
- A – White (Koigu Kersti 0000), 2 skeins
- Contrast Colors, Mary Lou used (11 yards of any dk weight yarn to make two stripes per stocking):
- B – lime green (Kersti K920)
- C – lighter lime green (Kersti K1521)
- D – Copper (Temple by Alchemy)
- E – Joshua Tree (Temple by Alchemy)
- F – burnt orange (Kersti K110)
- G – orange (Kersti I133)
- H – Rich Berry (Temple by Alchemy)
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 20-inch length circular needles, or size required to get gauge.
- US size 5 set of four double pointed needles (dpn), or size required o get gauge.
- Large stitch holder
- Stitch marker
Shop our wonderful collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
20 stitches and 28 rows = 4-inches in stockinette stitch
Finished Size
Approximately 5.5 inches wide (around “leg”) by 19 inches long
Notes
Ssk: slip two stitches to right-hand needle one at a time as if to knit; return them back to left-hand needle one at a time in their new orientation; knit them together through the back loops. You can find our ssk tutorial at this link.
Although this pattern uses circular needles, it is not knit in the round. This means it’ll be easier to make the color changes on the intstep. For a simple tutorial on switching colors in the middle of a row, please check out our intarsia tutorial here.
Pattern
Leg
Beginning with color A and 20-inch circular needle, cast on 60 sts (do not join into a round). We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Work K2, P2 ribbing for 8 rows.
Continue with color A,
*Row 1 (Right side): Knit
Row 2: Purl
Repeat these two rows one more time. (Note, do not cut yarn for color A).
Switch to color B, repeat from *, cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail.
Switch to color A, repeat from *, do not cut yarn.
Switch to color C, repeat from *, cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail.
Continue in alphabetical order repeating color A between each of the other colors.
Once you’ve worked this whole section, switch one more time to color B, repeat from *, cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail.
Set up for heel flap
Reposition stitches as follows, place first 15 sts on a dpn; place next 30 sts on large stitch holder; place last 15 sts on a dpn. Reposition the 15 sts from the dpns onto your circular needle so that they meet one another in the middle and work the 30 sts for heel flap.
Heel flap
Row 1 (Right side): *Sl 1 purlwise (pwise) with yarn in back (wyb), K1; rep from *.
Row 2: SL 1 pwise with yarn in front (wyf), purl to end.
Rep these two rows until 30 rows have been worked. There will be 15 chain selvage sts on each side.
Turn heel
Row 1: Knit across 17 sts, ssk, k1, turn work.
Row 2: Sl 1 pwise, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1 pwise, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk (1 st from each side of gap) k1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1 pwise, purl to 1 st before gap, p2 tog (1 st from each side of gap), p1, turn.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all heel sts have been worked, ending with a WS row and ending p2tog. There will remain 18 sts.
Heel gusset
Cut yarn and rejoin at right side by picking up 15 sts along right side of heel flap, working through each chain selvedge stitch; knit across 18 sts of turned heel and pick up 15 sts on left side of flap. Place a marker (PM) and retrieve the stitches on holder and work across 30 instep sts (you will now have 78 sts.) Turn work and purl back.
Row 1 (Right side): K 1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts before M, K2 tog, K1, continue across instep.
Row 2: Purl
Continue these 2 rows, decreasing on RS rows and changing color as needed (with colors C and D) for the instep portion only every 4 rows until there remain a total of 60 sts (this will coincide with the 4th row of main color). For help with color change in the middle of the row, please check out our Intarsia Tutorial at this link.
Foot
Switch to Color E.
Row 1 (Right side): Knit, remove M as you come to it.
Row 2: purl
Repeat these two rows.
Resume color progression as above, ending with 4 rows of color H.
Toe
Reposition stitches onto dpns as follows: place first 15 sts on needle 1, then 15 sts on needle 2, and 30 sts on needle 3. Join into a round. For help with Double Pointed Needles, check out our tutorial at this link.
Round 1:
- On needle 1: K1, ssk, K to end of needle.
- On needle 2: K to last 3 sts, K 2 tog, K1.
- On needle 3: K1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
Round 2: Knit.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there remain 32 sts total.
Repeat round 1 only until there remain 8 sts total.
Place sts on needles 1 and 2 and use Kitchener stitch to graft remaining sts together. You can find our Kitchener Stitch Tutorial at this link.
Finishing
Beginning at bottom of foot seam, thread yarn through tapestry needle and use mattress stitch to sew the seam together. Pick up the colors as you get to them and carry a length of main color, carefully matching the stitches side to side so the seam is as invisible as possible. Use same technique on leg seam, working from heel up. Weave in all ends in the seam, if possible. If you need help with Mattress Stitch, click here to find a great tutorial on Knitty.com.
Hanging loop
With color A and dpns, CO 3 sts and make an I-cord about 3 inches in length. Double over I-cord and sew to top on the inside of the leg seam so your stocking can be hung. You can find our I-cord Tutorial at this link.
Block finished stocking as desired.
Happy Holidays!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
oh my, that is cute. i think ray and i will be getting stockings for christmas to hang at our house this year 🙂
jen
I’ve been looking for a great pattern for my Gigi’s Christmas stocking. This will be her third Christmas, and she needs a Forever Stocking. I found it! Thanks!
This is so cute! I’ve been looking for a holiday stocking that isn’t so “holiday” which sounds completely crazy but true.
I love this pattern! I’m wondering if you can suggest any other color combinations….I love this pattern but I’m not a big fan of the browns/pinks in this version. But I’m also terrible at figuring out better color combos….little help?
Wonderful color combo, especially for those of us in the tropics. I plan on this stocking for the Ravelry Sock Knitters Anonymous holiday October entry.
I am just about done with this and the pattern is mostly spot-on! I did a different color combo based on what was on sale – shetland wool, in mushroom brown (MC), 3 reds, 3 greens, and a blue. Looks very natural and earthy.
One question, though: why is this knit flat instead of knitting in the round all the way down? The seams aren't that hard to take care of but it does seem like it adds an unnecessary extra step. Next time perhaps I'll try it in the round…
Hi, Just to let you know that i have featured you on my blog
Natasha xxx
http://www.serenityyou.blogspot.com
I absolutely love this pattern but am a bit stuck! This is the first time I have knit a sock, and so this is probably a very silly question but…
When starting to knit the heel flap, am I knitting the middle 30 stitches or the 30 stitches that I have placed back onto my circular needle?
Sorry if this doesn't make sense but my brain just can't seem to figure it out! x
Hi Pippa,
You will work the 30 stitches that you've placed onto the circular needle, ignoring for now the other 30 stitches that you've placed on a stitch holder.
Please let us know if you have any other questions and thanks for this one!
Whitney
When starting the heel– I have repositioned my stitches, but am confused but am confused about bringing them together in the middle. Does this mean to join the previous 2 edges? Or to join the two sides that are now next to the 30 stitches on the stitch holder? Not sure this question even makes sense…
Hi Joanna,
You simple slip the two sets of 15 stitches onto one circular needle so that there are 30 stitches on the circular needle (and 30 stitches on a stitch holder). You work the Heel Flap over the 30 stitches on the circular needle.
I hope this clarifies this step for you! Please let us know if you have any other questions and thank you for this one!
Whitney
I’m having this same problem, I think. When I join the 15×2 stitches so that my working yarn’s tail is at one end, and start knitting the heel flap, it ends up backwards to the rest of the stocking. I’m finding it difficult to figure out how to position those 30 stitches so that the heel flap in positioned correctly, especially with the rest of the stocking knitted flat.
Hi Kris!
I believe that if you set your previous “beg of round” in the very middle of the 30 stitch flap, it will be positioned correctly. You will join the color A (not connected to your leg stripes) at the side of this 30 stitch flap ready to knit a right side row.
Hope this helps!
Thomas
This pattern is also great felted. I knit this in cascade 220 and then put it in a hot washing machine. So happy with the results!
When I am repositioning my stitches while setting up the heel flap, are the stitches that I am repositioning Color B stitches? And then do you switch to color A on the 1st row of the heel flap? If so, my last strip before the heel flap will not have a nice clean line. Am I doing something wrong? Thank you for the help!
Hi Mary!
I believe you are correct! You will be repositioning stitches that are in Color B, and switching to Color A to work the heel flap. The sample in the photograph was made this way, so I don’t think you need to worry about the last stripe’s edge. It will become a clean line when you finish the heel and continue on working in the round!
I hope this helps!
Thomas
How long is the leg portion in total?
Thank you
Hi Chelsea,
Thanks for the question! Sadly we do not have this sample anymore and cannot measure the leg. Good news though! The leg is adjustable because you can knit it as long as you want/can with the yarn you choose. Thanks!
-Adam
Hi there! I’m making this stocking right now and love it so far but I’m also having trouble with the heel. It seems backward to me. I have 15 stiches on my circular needle, 30 stitches on the stitch holder, and 15 more on the circular needle. The yarn is at the top of my circular needle making it so the heel would be on the wrong side. Any suggestions?
Thank you so much and Iove your shop!
MG
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for the question! You are on the right track. The heel flap is worked flat so you will be working the right and wrong sides of the fabric across the 30 stitches on your circular needle. After the heel flap and turning the heel, you will pick up the stitches along the edges of the flap and resume in the round for the instep of the foot. I hope this clears things up a bit!
-Adam
Do you have any advice for converting this pattern to be knit in the round? I have never converted a pattern before, nor knit a sock, but I love knitting in the round, and I have done short rows.
Hello Mariah,
Thank you for writing us! This pattern should be pretty easy to convert to knitting in the round. I would recommend maybe cross referencing it with a basic sock ( maybe on Raverly) pattern to help you along the process. I think you can definitely figure it out and please let us know if you have any questions along the way!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
can you translate this to a solid color stocking – your proportions are perfect
Thank you
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for writing in! You can absolutely use just a single color. You will need 3 instead of 2 skeins of the main color in Kersti. You will follow the pattern as written, save for not changing colors when you arrive at the color changes. You will instead, keep knitting!
Best,
Cassy
Great pattern but most of the links to your tutorials are broken. Please fix them.
Diana W
Hi Diana,
Thank you so much for letting us know! I have corrected all of the links in the pattern! We greatly appreciate you making us aware of the issue!
Best,
Cassy
Can I use Perrie yarn for this pattern?
Thank you
Hello Rose,
Thank you for reaching out! Brooklyn Tweed’s Arbor would actually be a closer fit for this pattern.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
Marilla
I apologize for asking this when you’ve provided answers for the same question. I am, unfortunately, still confused about the heel flap. (1) I placed the first 15 stitches from the right side, starting with the stitch containing my tail, on a dpn. (2) I placed the next 30 on a large stitch holder. (3) I placed the last 15 from the original right side row on another dpn. I then had two 15-st dpns on either side of the set aside 30 st. If I combine the two 15s to meet in the middle (with the 30 st. squished away), then my tail is at an end. The problem is that when I stitch the heel flap, it closes off at the connection with the 30 set aside instead of closing off the back seam. That seems backwards. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Jamie,
I hope I can help clear this up! When you combine the 15 stitches from each end of the work, you should actually be arranging them so that the working yarn tail is in the middle of the now 30 stitches on one needle. When done correctly, it should look a little like you have turned the leg of the stocking into a flattened tube, with the 30 held stitches on one half and the combined 30 stitches on the other. You will then ignore the yarn tail that is in the middle of the 30 stitches and, beginning with a right side row, join yarn A at the beginning of the row to work the heel flap.
I hope that helps! Please let us know if you have any other questions!
Julianna
Hi there! I’m having fun knitting this and I am so happy to see that you are still answering questions 🙂 I understood the heel flap fine but am completely stumped by the gusset. Now that I’ve cut the yarn, I’m not sure where to go to begin stitching the 15/18/15. I apologize if I’m not describing this well, I’m truly stumped. Any insight you can give or further explanation for how to do the gusset is greatly appreciated. Thanks! -Niki
Hi Niki,
Thanks for reaching out! For this step, you will rotate the stocking to the left so that the right selvedge of the heel flap you just knitted is facing you. Starting at the top corner of the heel flap edge, next to the previously set aside instep stitches, you will begin picking up 15 stitches along the right side of the heel flap, knit the 18 heel flap stitches, and then continuing in the same direction, pick up 15 stitches along the left edge of the heel flap, ending at the top corner, next to the other end of the instep stitches.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
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I am just about to start this pattern and am confused about the beginning when it says not to join in the round after casting on 60 stitches on the circular needles. Is the leg not knit in the round?
Hi Maura,
Thanks for reaching out! That is correct, this stocking is knit flat and seamed at the end. However, if you are familiar with knitting in the round and general sock construction, it would be quite easy to convert to knitting in the round!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
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Thank you Julianna! So, should I just knit in the round from the beginning? does anything change with the directions?
Hi Maura,
Yes, I would join in the round from the very beginning! When you get to the heel flap instructions, you will need to rearrange your stitches as given in the pattern so that you are working on half the stitches with the old beginning of the round, where you changed colors for the stripes, is centered over the heel flap stitches, but the heel flap and heel turn instructions will still be the same. When you are working the gusset, if you do not want the stripes to go across the gusset as shown in the pictures, you will need to work this section flat, but if you don’t mind the stripes going through the gusset, you can continue to work this section in the round. The gusset will be the trickiest spot to convert to working in the round, but even if you work that section flat, you will save a lot of finishing and seaming time by working the leg in the round!
Best,
Julianna
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I am doing Row 1 of the heel gusset and am wondering where it says “continue across instep”. Should I just knit, or do the “K1, ssk, knit to the last 3 stitches, etc.”?
Thank you.
Hello Maura,
Thank you for reaching out! You will just knit across the instep. You will begin Row 1 after you have turned your work and purled back across.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
I would love to knit this up, but I am really curious as to why this is not just knit in the round.
Can this be knit in the round?
Hi Kaisha,
Great question! Although I am also a huge fan of knitting in the round whenever I can, this type of flat-knit construction for Christmas stockings is very traditional, and probably dates back to a time when knitting flat was much more popular. It also makes it much easier to keep all the color changes just where you want them so they aren’t visible when the stocking is hung! If you prefer, it’s not too hard to convert it to knitting in the round, especially if you have prior experience knitting socks.
When you get to the heel flap instructions, you will need to rearrange your stitches as given in the pattern so that you are working on half the stitches with the old beginning of the round, where you changed colors for the stripes, is centered over the heel flap stitches, but the heel flap and heel turn instructions will still be the same. When you are working the gusset, if you do not want the stripes to go across the gusset as shown in the pictures, you will need to work this section flat, but if you don’t mind the stripes going through the gusset, you can continue to work this section in the round. The gusset will be the trickiest spot to convert to working in the round, but even if you work that section flat, you will save a lot of finishing and seaming time by working the leg in the round!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! Iam really enjoying this project 🙂 I am also stuck at the gusset, though. I turned my work around and purled back to the marker. Do I now turn the work back around to begin row 1 so that’ll be going across the instep with the k1, ssk?
Hi Janelle,
Thanks for writing in, and that’s basically correct! Row 1 first travels down one side of the heel flap, then across the heel (which is under the foot), then up the other side of the heel flap, and finally over the instep after you work the k2tog, k1. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili