Ash Bark Blanket
Like rich, textured bark wrapped around a tree, Julia Adams’ Ash Bark Blanket is a softer, gentler covering, designed to comfort and protect.
A young ash tree starts with a smooth bark that develops its characteristic diamond-patterned surface with age. Although not super speedy, fortunately, knitting is a lot faster than tree-growing! With a combination of cables and passed stitches, in just a few rows, you’ll see the forest through the trees, as this distinctive texture emerges against a reverse stockinette background.
We provide both written and charted directions for Julia’s beautiful Ash Bark Blanket pattern, so pick the path for you and knit away!
Our supple, unmercerized Cotton Pure On A Cone guarantees that you can knit this entire blanket without having to wind skeins or weave in ends. This organically grown cotton comes in almost two dozen colors, so while your blanket may be a tribute to the gray bark of a tree, your Ash Bark Blanket can be the color of the leaves or a flower growing nearby!
If you love the yarn used in this project, you’ll love all of our other yarn, too! Explore our 35+ lovingly created yarn collections, in nearly every natural fiber and spectacular color you can imagine… Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn shop!
Designed for Purl Soho by Julia Adams. Julia loves the combination of math, science, and art that’s necessary for designing, and we can tell! She comes from a long line of obsessive knitters and has spent years perfecting her ability to combine practicality with the beauty of knitting.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoAshBarkBlanket, and #PurlSohoCottonPure. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
To make one throw-size blanket or two crib-size ones, you’ll need…
- 1 Cotton Pure On A Cone, 100% organically grown cotton yarn. Each cone of this sport weight yarn is approximately 2789 yards/ 1000 grams; approximately 1310 (2765) yards required. We used Mineral Blue.
- US 3 (3.25 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles
- US 1 (2.25 mm), 32- or 40-inch circular needles
PLEASE NOTE: If you want to make just one Crib Blanket, you’ll need 5 skeins of Purl Soho’s Cotton Pure. Or if you want to make the Throw but prefer skeins, you’ll need 10.
GAUGE
29 stitches and 38 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern on larger needles
SIZES
Crib (Throw)
Finished Dimensions: Approximately 28½ (40) inches wide x 35½ (52¼) inches long
NOTES
STITCH MULTIPLE
This stitch pattern works over a multiple of 12 + 20 stitches.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
CABLE CAST ON
For tips on starting your project with this cast on, please visit our Cable Cast On Tutorial and scroll to the bottom of the page.
SLIPPED STITCHES
Slip all slipped stitches purlwise unless otherwise indicated.
PASS, KNIT, YARN OVER, KNIT (PKOK)
Pass the third stitch on left needle over first two stitches and off needle, k1, yarn over, k1.
CROSS STITCHES
3/1 LC (3/1 Left Cross)
Slip 3 stitches onto cable stitch holder and hold in front of work, purl 1 from left needle, knit 3 from cable stitch holder.
3/1 RC (3/1 Right Cross)
Slip 1 stitch onto cable stitch holder, hold in back of work, knit 3 from left needle, purl 1 from cable stitch holder.
PATTERN
Using a Cable Cast On (see Notes), cast 212 (296) stitches onto larger circular needles.
Work Ash Bark Pattern either from Written Instructions or Chart, both below.
ASH BARK PATTERN: WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
BEGIN ASH BARK PATTERN
Row 1 (right side): Slip 2 (see Notes) with yarn in back (wyib), k2, p1, k3, p4, k3, *p2, k3, p4, k3, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p1, k4.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 2 with yarn in front (wyif), p2, k1, p3, k4, p3, *k2, p3, k4, p3, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k1, p4.
Row 3: Slip 2 wyib, k2, p1, PKOK (see Notes), p4, PKOK, *p2, PKOK, p4, PKOK, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p1, k4.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Rows 5–16: Repeat Rows 1–4 three times.
CONTINUE ASH BARK PATTERN
Row 1 (right side): Slip 2 wyib, k2, p1, 3/1 LC (see Notes), p2, 3/1 RC (see Notes), *p2, 3/1 LC, p2, 3/1 RC, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p1, k4.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 2 wyif, p2, k2, p3, k2, p3, *k4, p3, k2, p3, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, k2, p4.
Row 3: Slip 2 wyib, k2, p2, PKOK, p2, PKOK, *p4, PKOK, p2, PKOK, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p2, k4.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Row 5: Slip 2 wyib, k2, p2, 3/1 LC, 3/1 RC, *p4, 3/1 LC, 3/1 RC, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p2, k4.
Row 6: Slip 2 wyif, p2, k3, p6, *k6, p6, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k3, p4.
Row 7: Slip 2 wyib, k2, p3, [PKOK] 2 times, *p6, [PKOK] 2 times, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, p3, k4.
Rows 8: Repeat Row 6.
Rows 9: Slip 2 wyib, k2, p3, k6, *p6, k6 repeat from * to last 7 stitches, p3, k4.
Rows 10: Repeat Row 6.
Row 11: Repeat Row 7.
Row 12: Repeat Row 6.
Row 13: Slip 2 wyib, k2, p2, 3/1 RC, 3/1 LC, *p4, 3/1 RC, 3/1 LC, repeat from * to last 6 stitches, p2, k4.
Row 14: Repeat Row 2.
Row 15: Repeat Row 3.
Row 16: Repeat Row 2.
Row 17: Slip 2 wyib, k2, p1, 3/1 RC, p2, 3/1 LC, *p2, 3/1 RC, p2, 3/1 LC, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p1, k4.
Row 18: Slip 2 wyif, p2, k1, p3, k4, p3, *k2, p3, k4, p3, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k1, p4.
Row 19: Slip 2 wyib, k2, p1, PKOK, p4, PKOK, *p2, PKOK, p4, PKOK, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p1, k4.
Row 20: Repeat Row 18.
Row 21: Slip 2 wyib, k2, *3/1 RC, p4, 3/1 LC, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 22: Slip 2 wyif, p5, k6, *p6, k6, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, p7.
Row 23: Slip 2 wyib, k2, *PKOK, p6, PKOK, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
Rows 24: Repeat Row 22.
Rows 25: Slip 2 wyib, k5, p6 *k6, p6, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k7.
Rows 26: Repeat Row 22.
Row 27: Repeat Row 23.
Row 28: Repeat Row 22.
Row 29: Slip 2 wyib, k2, * 3/1 LC, p4, 3/1 RC, repeat from * to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 30: Slip 2 wyif, p2, k1, p3, k4, p3 *k2, p3, k4, p3, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k1, p4.
Row 31: Slip 2 wyib, k2, p1, PKOK, p4, PKOK, *p2, PKOK, p4, PKOK, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p1, k4.
Row 32: Repeat Row 30.
Repeat Rows 1–32 eight (13) more times, then repeat Rows 1–20 one more time. Piece measures 34 (51) inches from cast-on edge.
END ASH BARK PATTERN
Row 1 (right side): Slip 2 wyib, k2, p1, k3, p4, k3, *p2, k3, p4, k3, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p1, k4.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 2 wyif, p2, k1, p3, k4, p3, *k2, p3, k4, p3, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, k1, p4.
Row 3: Slip 2 wyib, k2, p1, PKOK, p4, PKOK, *p2, PKOK, p4, PKOK, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p1, k4.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.
Rows 5–12: Repeat Rows 1–4 two more times.
Switching to smaller circular needles…
Row 13 (right side): Slip 2 wyib, k2, p1, k3, p4, k3, *p2, k3, p4, k3, repeat from * to last 5 stitches, p1, k4.
Go on to Finishing section, below.
ASH BARK PATTERN: CHART
NOTE: New to reading charts? Unravel the mysteries with our Reading A Chart Tutorial!
Starting in the bottom right corner of the Chart below, work right-side (odd number) rows from right to left and wrong-side (even number) rows from left to right.
Work Rows 1–4 four times for Beginning; then work Rows 1–32 of Repeating Ash Bark Pattern 9 (14) times until piece measures 34 (51) inches from cast-on edge; then work Rows 1–4 three times, then work Row 13 one time, then go on to Finishing section, below.
KEY
CHART
NOTE: Want to see it bigger? Download this chart (and key) as a PDF!
FINISHING
With wrong side facing, bind off purlwise.
Weave in ends and gently block.
Learn About Cotton Pure On A Cone + All Our Beautiful Yarns
Cotton Pure On A Cone is the ultimate yarn for amazing cotton blankets and garments! 2,789 whopping yards of 100% organically grown cotton yarn, you’ll have only two ends to weave in when you’re done… Music to every knitter’s ears! Cotton Pure is also a true natural beauty. This sport-weight yarn feels wonderfully soft and supple and comes in tons of gently heathered colors you won’t find anywhere else! Need some contrast colors or not quite so much yarn? Shop our collection of Cotton Pure 100-gram skeins, too!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our vast collection of (mostly free!) Cotton Pure knitting patterns and cast on!
More Sport-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of sport-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop cotton yarn
- Shop machine-washable yarn
- Shop plant-based yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
… a question re: PKOK direction.
The pass 3rd st over the 2 sts “and off the needle” then K1, YO, K1 would add up to work over a total of 5 sts on the needle. However, the chart shows this to take place on 3 sts, which means to me that the after passing the 3rd over the first 2 sts, you do the KYOK.
Thus it seems to me that the words “and off the needle” should not be there…?
Hello,
Thanks for reaching out with your question! When working the PKOK, you should indeed be passing the third stitch on your left needle over 2 stitches, similar to how you would bind off a stitch. This will leave 2 stitches on your left needle to k1, YO, and k1. For every decreased stitch in your PKOK you will increase a stitch with the yarn over so it is always worked over 3 stitches.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
If I make this for a double bed size how much yarn? Also thoughts on using superwash merino? Thanks.
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for your question! The largest size blanket featured in this pattern is 40″x 52¼” and will require 2,765 yards of Cotton Pure or a similar sport weight yarn. Blankets for a double bed are usually about 85″ x 90″, so I would recommend having about 10,208 yards of yarn for this project.
Superwash merino yarn can work perfectly for this blanket, but it might be helpful to knit a few swatches to ensure that you are getting the correct 29 stitches and 38 rows = 4″. Here is our tutorial All about Gauge that might be useful for this project.
Please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hmmm. Quilter here: I think your math might be off. You would need almost four times the yarn needed for a 40″x52.25″ (2090 square inches) to make a blanket 85″x90″ (7650 share inches), about three and two thirds cones or a total of about 10,208 yards. And that size would actually work fine for a queen bed, imo.
Hi Jan,
Thank you so much for the correction! You’re definitely correct, and the math in my first response was not nearly enough yardage. I’ve re-written my initial response so that it doesn’t give contradicting information!
Thank you again!
All the best,
Carly
LOVE this!
I am confused about RC (LC) og RPC (LPC). In the Notes it says RC and LC, but in the pattern you use RPC and LPC. Which is correct? Is it a knit or a purl stitch?
Kind regards
Marianne, Denmark
Hi Marianne,
Thanks for reaching out and for catching this! We’ve gone ahead and updated the pattern to reflect the LC and RC stitches that were mentioned in the pattern notes.
Thanks again for your attention to detail, and please let us know if you have any questions!
All the best,
Carly
Another absolutely gorgeous Julia Adams pattern
I have knit all her stay on bootie patterns as gifts from size birth to 12 months numerous times and recipients rave about them.
Keep up the great work, Julia.🥰🤗
Thank you so much for sharing your love for this pattern and Julia’s designs! We are so glad to hear you like it, and we hope you enjoy this pattern as much as you have enjoyed the stay on booties!
Happy knitting!
Margaret
I see on the written instructions that you switch to the smaller needle for row 13 at the end. Why the switch? Also, I don’t see this indicated on the chart.
Hi Lynn,
Thank you for your question! While we usually only notate stitch changes and not needle changes on our charts, the needle change in this blanket is done at the very end to help prevent the edges of the blanket from being wider than the body of the blanket, so that the rectangular shape stays intact along the bind off edge.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi
I’m in the UK and was hoping to make this with Light Worsted (DK wool in the UK), can you advise if this would be ok as I was wanting to make a warmer blanket for a new baby.
Thank you
Hi Kath,
You could absolutely use a DK weight yarn to make this blanket, though there are a few things you’ll want to keep in mind if you’ll be using a thicker yarn! First, if you’re using a DK instead of a Sport weight yarn, you will likely need to adjust your needle size up so that your stitches aren’t too snug. Also, the blanket’s finished dimensions will likely be a bit larger than what’s listed in the pattern’s schematics. Lastly, since the yardage listed in the pattern is for a sport weight worked to the specific gauge listed in the pattern, you might also want to consider buying an extra skein of yarn to ensure that you’ll have enough to complete your blanket. If you have any other questions or need some additional assistance, you can always reach out to us at [email protected] and we’d be glad to help!
Warmly,
Kelsey
Could I use Linen Quill to make this pattern. If so, how many skeins to make the larger size (40 x 52)?
Thank you for your help.
Kay
Hi Kay,
Thanks for writing in. I’d recommend using 7 skeins of Linen Quill to make the Throw size of this blanket! The only thing you’d need to adjust is the number of stitches you cast on, so that the blanket comes out to the correct dimensions.
To figure out your cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2020/08/20/all-about-gauge/). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 12 + 20. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Please designate which row to switch to smaller needles at the beginning. I am assuming it’s when you “Continue Ash Bark Pattern”. This is a lovely blanket! I’m going to make it as a gift.
Hi Diane,
Thank you for your question! In this project, the change to smaller needles is done at the very end to help prevent the edges of the blanket from being wider than the body of the blanket. This way the rectangular shape stays intact along the bind-off edge!
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Carly
Carly,
Thank you so much for the clarification! Makes perfect sense, Purl Soho is the BEST!
Hello, Is there anyway to get a pdf for the pattern. Hard to print in this format. Graph is over 2 pages. Thanks
Hi Emete,
Thanks for reaching out, and there absolutely is a way to download a PDF! If you’re on your computer, you’ll find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find the “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Click on this button, and a window will pop up where you can delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print. When you hover over any image or a text block, it will be highlighted in yellow and a “trash” icon will appear. Just click on this icon to delete anything that’s not necessary to the pattern! For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. Then, click on the “PDF” button in the upper left-hand corner of the pop-up window. Once your PDF has finished downloading, just click the “Download PDF” button, and it will be saved to your computer!
All the best,
Lili
When I do the repeat on the first 16 rows I don’t finish it before the last 5 stitches. Seems odd. Am I doing something wrong?
Hi Annette,
Thanks for writing in, although I’m sorry to hear that you’re running into trouble with this pattern! I can’t tell quite what’s going on, but I can give you some tools to help get back on track. First, I’d recommend counting your stitches. It may be the case that you have a few too many or too few stitches on your needles, which is very common when casting on for a large blanket!
If you’re finding you do have the correct stitch count, then I’d recommend placing stitch markers after every pattern repeat. That way, you can keep track of exactly where you are in the stitch pattern at any point during the row!
All the best,
Lili
Can you please tell me the color of the yarn that was used for the sample displayed on the webpage?
Thanks.
Hi Brad,
Thanks for reaching out. We used Mineral Blue!
All the best,
Lili
I have a question about the beginning section when it says for row 4 : repeat row 2. After that, then I go back to row 1, correct? If I understand correctly, I’ll be working row 1, row 2, row 3, row 2, row 1, row 2, row 3 , row 2, etc. for a total of 16 rows. Is this accurate?
Y’all always have the best patterns, best tutorials, best yarns and best design sensibilities. Thank you!
Hi Miriam,
That’s a great question, and your interpretation is absolutely correct! Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Lili, thanks for the confirmation. I’ve made it though the beginning and the first cycle of 32 rows using a cone of Cotton Pure in mineral blue. It wasn’t an easy start, but I’ve got the hang of the pattern now. It is difficult to do the crosses without dropping a stitch so I check my stitch count constantly. I am disappointed at how my work looks above, below and beside the crosses. The bars are wide and the work isn’t as neat as your pictures. It is done correctly, but the tight tension at the crosses has stretched the work around it. Make sense? Will this clear up when the blanket is washed and dried? The blanket needs to be easy to clean and the new parents will use the washer and dryer. I want it to look as lovely as your photos! Will the gaps go away once it is washed, or do I have an unrealistic hope? I’ve never made anything with Cotton Pure before so I don’t know how it will look once finished.
Again, thank you for your lovely patterns and assistance,
Hi Miriam,
I’m sorry to hear that your blanket isn’t turning out as expected! Would you be able to send a photo of your work to [email protected]? That way, we’ll be able to visualize better what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili
Will do, thank you!
I love the edges of this blanket and would like to use it on the Arbor blanket. Could you give me some guidance of how to adapt this edge? I’m not sure if it’s worked over 2 or 4 stitches.
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! The edge on this blanket is worked over 4 stitches–it’s 2 slipped stitches and 2 stockinette stitches. To adapt this to the Arbor Blanket pattern, you’ll need to cast on an additional 4 stitches at the beginning (since the edges on this pattern are 2 stitches, so you need an extra 2 on each edge). Then, you can follow the Arbor Blanket pattern essentially as written, but working the Ash Bark Blanket edge over the first and final 4 stitches of each row!
All the best,
Lili
I am really enjoying this pattern! I’m using Heirloom White Cotton Pure on size 3 needles. But it’s turning out lacy where the picture looks more dense. My tension is right on too. Perhaps a dk weight yarn would be closer in density to your picture?
Thanks!
Hi Nancy,
We actually used Cotton Pure for this pattern but I do want to note that cotton has a tendency to grow a bit with wash and blocking. Did you by chance block your gauge swatch?
I will keep an eye out for your reply.
All the best,
Gavriella
Where can I find the instructions for the larger size blanket. What I see here and when I downloaded it there is only the crib size blanket.
Hi Abby,
Thanks for writing in! This pattern contains instructions for both the Crib and Throw size of this blanket. The only difference is the cast-on number and how many times you repeat the rows in the CONTINUE ASH BARK PATTERN section!
All the best,
Lili