Ainur Berkimbayeva For Purl Soho: Center Point Popover
When a sweater does not conform to our expectations, we have no choice but to call it a “popover.” Ainur Berkimbayeva’s Center Point Popover defies convention and is “sweater” in a whole new language!
Roomy and cropped with an extreme drop-shoulder construction, the Center Point Popover is a marvelous meld of math and design. Inspired by shapes she made with folded paper and by her love for geometry, Ainur put her best mind to work on this one!
To make the Center Point Popover, you knit the front and back separately, from the center point out, then join them and shape for the hips and shoulders. You pick up for the sleeves and work them in the round, stopping soon after for short sleeves or continuing in 2×2 rib for long ones. Next, work the neckband and be done, or keep going with a big, cozy hood!
So many ways to make it your own! We love that freedom and creativity, not only in the making, but in the wearing, too. The Center Point Popover brings personality to every outfit and shape shifts to fit any mood. That’s our kind of popover!
Ainur chose our Linen Quill Worsted for her design, citing how it is “so woolly and drapey at the same time.” It is! It’s also a beautiful blend of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen that comes in 30 super inspiring colors. Choose your favorite and discover a whole new kind of sweater!
Designed for Purl Soho by Ainur Berkimbayeva.
UPDATE: NOW IN TULIP COTTON
Our beautiful Tulip Cotton makes a cooler, year-round Center Point Popover. The tidy spin of the yarn adds crisp definition to the lines that reverberate from the center of the piece, and its plant-fiber drape lends an easy elegance. Made in Italy of 100% organically grown, GOTS certified cotton, Tulip Cotton is a gorgeous choice for an extraordinary knit!
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoCenterPointPopover, and #PurlSohoLinenQuillWorsted. We can’t wait to see what you make!
- Purl Soho’s Linen Quill Worsted, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is 164 yards/100 grams. We used the colors Pale Oats and Turmeric Yellow.
- Short Sleeve Without Hood
4 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins; approximately 650 (755, 880, 990, 1110, 1255) yards required
- Short Sleeve With Hood
7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) skeins; approximately 1015 (1125, 1260, 1380, 1510, 1665) yards required
- Long Sleeve Without Hood
6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 10) skeins; approximately 905 (1015, 1150, 1270, 1400, 1555) yards required
- Long Sleeve With Hood
8 (9, 9, 10, 11, 12) skeins; approximately 1220 (1330, 1465, 1585, 1715, 1870) yards required
- Short Sleeve Without Hood
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 5, 32-inch circular needles
- A set of US 5 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- A Center Point Popover pattern
18 stitches and 36 rounds = 4 inches in pattern stitch (knit 2 rows, purl 2 rows) on larger needles, after blocking
NOTE Please visit our Understanding Ease + Selecting A Size tutorial for tips! Also note, this design is very roomy through the bust, so in this case, choose size based on hip measurement.
40½ (45¾, 51, 56½, 61¾, 67)
To fit actual hip circumference of approximately 31–36 (37–42, 43–47, 48–52, 53–57, 58–63) inches with approximately 4–9 inches of positive ease
- Finished Hip Circumference: 40½ (45¾, 51, 56½, 61¾, 67) inches
- Finished Length From Back Neck To Bottom Edge: 15¼ (16½, 18, 19¼, 20½, 22) inches
- Finished Short Sleeve Length From Underarm: 2¼ inches
- Finished Long Sleeve Length From Underarm: 13½ inches (adjustable)
Sample: The sweaters shown here are size 40½, worn with 4½ inches of ease.
The Center Point Popover is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
61 comments on “Ainur Berkimbayeva For Purl Soho: Center Point Popover”
Do you have a photo of the hood-less style on a model?
Gorgeous pattern! I can’t wait to start it. Is it possible to extend the length of the sweater? The length measurements are a bit short for me on the width I would need. Thank you!
i have a long body …is there provision in the pattern to make it longer?
Are there any photos with the hood up?
I love this look and just purchased the pattern from you in the Ravelry link so it’s stored in my library. I have an allergy to alpaca and can’t knit with it, even for someone else! Can you recommend another of your yarns that would work for a similar look in the drape of the sweater?
This is a gorgeous sweater and I would love to see it downsized to children’s sizes, or even a hint as to how I might be able to do the math myself. I might try knitting one for myself and seeing if I can adapt it somehow. It looks complicated, mathematically or architecturally speaking.
This looks really cool! Is it possible to see how it would look on a bigger bust?
This is a beautiful pattern… do you think it would work in your worsted cotton?
I love this pattern. I’m looking for a linen/cotton substitute for the yarn and wondering if you think your Lantern yarn would work?
How much Worsted Cotton would you suggest?
What a gorgeous sweater. Will add this pattern to my queue!
That’s a beautiful sweater. I’d like to make it for my daughter who lives in coastal California where one always needs a light sweater. Judging by the yarn weight and needle size I assume this is dense and a bit stiff. Would this pattern work with a lighter weight yarn to make a more drapey, lightweight sweater? If so, could you recommend a yarn?
This might sound like a silly or novice question but I’ve finished the front and back squares and the back has a hole in the center where I cast on in the round. I don’t see anything in the pattern instructions to specifically fix this other than weaving in ends. Is this really closed up at the very end? Is there a special weaving in ends technique where you could direct me for this type of piece?
Would it be feasible to make the different modules in different colors? Thank you. It’s beautiful!
I’m struggling to understand the back being worked in the round when the front was worked side to side. I’ll just jump in and start it – – but I’m having a tough time visualizing it…. what am I missing??
The back is a square which is worked centre out.
Looking for clarification before I begin to join front and back as I can’t quite visualize the instructions.
When performing the initial ssk, am I using the double pointed needles from the back or continuing with the circular needles that were used from the front portion?
Hi there! Bought this patter, can’t wait to knit. However gauge has me worried: the yarn itself calls for size 6-7, the pattern calls for 4 and 5. To make gauge, I am actually using a slightly heavier yarn and using size 8!
Thanks for reaching out! Gauge can definitely be a tricky thing to understand, but our tutorial All About Gauge is full of helpful information for all things gauge-related!
I’d say that the most important thing to pay attention to is matching the gauge called for in the pattern; the pattern will have been designed for that specific gauge, and matching that number (rather than the number suggested by the yarn) will be important in ensuring that your garment has the correct fit when it’s completed! When knitting a garment where fit is important (like sweaters vs. scarves), we always strongly recommend knitting up a gauge swatch before starting your project, to make sure that you’re using the correct needle size to achieve the proper gauge. It’s also important to make sure that you wash and block your gauge swatch the same way you will wash and block the finished garment; this will ensure that you’re getting an accurate gauge count, as most pattern gauges will be based on the count after blocking.
If you’re getting the correct gauge using a thicker yarn and working on a US8, then that’s what I’d use when knitting the pattern; however, I would recommend that if you haven’t already washed and blocked the swatch to go ahead and do that, to make sure you’re getting an accurate count. I’d also suggest knitting a swatch that is about 6″ x 6″; you’ll get a more accurate gauge count if you’re taking the measurement over 4″ rather than 1″, so a 6″ square swatch will allow you to get that gauge count with a little breathing room on either side!
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions! You can always email us at email@example.com if you need some additional help!
All the best,
I’m contemplating starting this sweater depending on size, yarn yardage and what I have in my stash – but I’m a little confused on picking sizes. I get ease, but this appears to be a crop style sweater – so when going with the hip measurements – I’m confused. I have wide hips but not a wide torso… I don’t want to end up swimming in the sweater. So, I was wondering if you could give some guidance on picking a size and the best place to truly measure on my body considering the cropped nature of the top.
Hi, this is such a cool pattern! I don’t understand the loop increases – where can I find more instructions and/or a picture?
Hello. In one of the comments above, there is a reference to an update to the pattern that was released in May 2021. I ordered this pattern before the update. Is it possible to obtain an updated pattern? I am in a spot that I have a question and am hoping the updated pattern will help.
I wanted to ask to see a photo of the hoodless short sleeve version on a model, but I did see that question was already asked. I also wanted to see what it looked like with the hood on the head. I think I like the pattern, but would love to see these looks before I commit to purchasing it. I’m sure others are waiting for these photos before they purchase as well
I am also struggling with this pattern. I am now at the point where I am staring the hood. There is no sketch of the actual shape of the hood and the instructions provide 2 sets of different instructions for the left front hood. Typo ?
I cannot figure out when or if I need to turn the work after making the double stitch.
Help will be appreciated. Marie from Belgium
Thank you so much for reaching out. It looks like you might be using an older version of this pattern; you’re completely correct in that previously two different sections were both labeled “Left Front Hood” and we’ve since updated the pattern and fixed that error. We’re very sorry for the inconvenience! In the Hood section, the header at the top of page 5 should read “Right Front Hood”, not “Left Front Hood”.
I’ve gone ahead and emailed you the latest version of the pattern! And yes, you would turn your work after doing the double stitch in this section as the Hood is worked back and forth in rows.
Thank you again for reaching out! Please let us know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
I, too, am interested in starting this, and am a bit intimidated by the construction. There are a lot of questions here about pictures. The Ravelry projects section on this pattern has quite a few great pictures of the different styles and projects in process and finished, with a few that have very extensive comments on suggestions that I’ve found helpful.
Also – being allergic to wool, I’m searching for a silk and/or linen that would work. Thoughts?
I looked thought the comments and did not see it asked but I was wondering if there was a video tutorial of the hood bind off . I googled and can’t find a reverse icord bind off. And I did not see any links in the pattern.
Would your Hedgerow yarn be good for this sweater? If so, would the yardage be about the same as with Linen Quill Worsted? Thank you so much!