Ainur Berkimbayeva For Purl Soho: Center Point Popover
When a sweater does not conform to our expectations, we have no choice but to call it a “popover.” Ainur Berkimbayeva’s Center Point Popover defies convention and is “sweater” in a whole new language!
Roomy and cropped with an extreme drop-shoulder construction, the Center Point Popover is a marvelous meld of math and design. Inspired by shapes she made with folded paper and by her love for geometry, Ainur put her best mind to work on this one!
To make the Center Point Popover, you knit the front and back separately, from the center point out, then join them and shape for the hips and shoulders. You pick up for the sleeves and work them in the round, stopping soon after for short sleeves or continuing in 2×2 rib for long ones. Next, work the neckband and be done, or keep going with a big, cozy hood!
So many ways to make it your own! We love that freedom and creativity, not only in the making, but in the wearing, too. The Center Point Popover brings personality to every outfit and shape shifts to fit any mood. That’s our kind of popover!
Ainur chose our Linen Quill Worsted for her design, citing how it is “so woolly and drapey at the same time.” It is! It’s also a beautiful blend of fine highland wool, alpaca, and linen that comes in 30 super inspiring colors. Choose your favorite and discover a whole new kind of sweater!/
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
UPDATE: NOW IN TULIP COTTON
MAY 2022
Our beautiful Tulip Cotton makes a cooler, year-round Center Point Popover. The tidy spin of the yarn adds crisp definition to the lines that reverberate from the center of the piece, and its plant-fiber drape lends an easy elegance. Made in Italy of 100% organically grown, GOTS certified cotton, Tulip Cotton is a gorgeous choice for an extraordinary knit!
Designed for Purl Soho by Ainur Berkimbayeva.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoCenterPointPopover, and #PurlSohoLinenQuillWorsted. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- Purl Soho’s Linen Quill Worsted, 50% fine highland wool, 35% alpaca, and 15% linen. Each skein is 164 yards/100 grams. We used the colors Pale Oats and Turmeric Yellow.
- Short Sleeve Without Hood
4 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins; approximately 650 (755, 880, 990, 1110, 1255) yards required - Short Sleeve With Hood
7 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) skeins; approximately 1015 (1125, 1260, 1380, 1510, 1665) yards required - Long Sleeve Without Hood
6 (7, 7, 8, 9, 10) skeins; approximately 905 (1015, 1150, 1270, 1400, 1555) yards required - Long Sleeve With Hood
8 (9, 9, 10, 11, 12) skeins; approximately 1220 (1330, 1465, 1585, 1715, 1870) yards required
- Short Sleeve Without Hood
- US 4 (3.5 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 5, 32-inch circular needles
- A set of US 5 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers, including one unique
- A Center Point Popover pattern
Gauge
18 stitches and 36 rounds = 4 inches in pattern stitch (knit 2 rows, purl 2 rows) on larger needles, after blocking
Sizes
NOTE Please visit our Understanding Ease + Selecting A Size tutorial for tips! Also note, this design is very roomy through the bust, so in this case, choose size based on hip measurement.
40½ (45¾, 51, 56½, 61¾, 67)
To fit actual hip circumference of approximately 31–36 (37–42, 43–47, 48–52, 53–57, 58–63) inches with approximately 4–9 inches of positive ease
- Finished Hip Circumference: 40½ (45¾, 51, 56½, 61¾, 67) inches
- Finished Length From Back Neck To Bottom Edge: 15¼ (16½, 18, 19¼, 20½, 22) inches
- Finished Short Sleeve Length From Underarm: 2¼ inches
- Finished Long Sleeve Length From Underarm: 13½ inches (adjustable)
Sample: The sweaters shown here are size 40½, worn with 4½ inches of ease.
Pattern
The Center Point Popover is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Do you have a photo of the hood-less style on a model?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we don’t have the hoodless version of this pattern photographed on a model, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
this is my question also. hoodless version on a model. Thanks!
I would love to see the hoodless modelled also!
Gorgeous pattern! I can’t wait to start it. Is it possible to extend the length of the sweater? The length measurements are a bit short for me on the width I would need. Thank you!
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! This is such a fun pattern! Unfortunately due to the complexity of the body shape it would be difficult to adjust the length of the body. However, there is a Hem section of the pattern and you can add additional length there! You will simply work in the stitch pattern until you reach your desired length!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
i have a long body …is there provision in the pattern to make it longer?
Hi Denise,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately due to the complexity of this pattern it would be difficult to adjust the length of the body of the sweater. However, there is a Hem section of the pattern and you can add additional length there! You will simply work in the stitch pattern until you reach your desired length.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
Are there any photos with the hood up?
Hi Zosia,
Thanks for reaching out! You can find an image with the hoop up on our @purlsoho Instagram story!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this look and just purchased the pattern from you in the Ravelry link so it’s stored in my library. I have an allergy to alpaca and can’t knit with it, even for someone else! Can you recommend another of your yarns that would work for a similar look in the drape of the sweater?
Hi Chris,
Thanks for reaching out! I would recommend using our Worsted Twist or HARRISVILLE DESIGNS Highland! I also recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning whenever using a different yarn to insure that you are consistent with the pattern!
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
This is a gorgeous sweater and I would love to see it downsized to children’s sizes, or even a hint as to how I might be able to do the math myself. I might try knitting one for myself and seeing if I can adapt it somehow. It looks complicated, mathematically or architecturally speaking.
Hi Eve,
Thanks for reaching out! At this time we only have the pattern available in adult sizes, but thank you for expressing your interest. I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team! The pattern is a bit complex mathematically and architecturally speaking, so if you do end up experimenting with a smaller size please let us know how it turns out!
Happy knitting!
Gianna
This looks really cool! Is it possible to see how it would look on a bigger bust?
Hi Kristina,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately we only have the sample made in one size and don’t currently have the resources to re-photograph this, but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
This is a beautiful pattern… do you think it would work in your worsted cotton?
Hi Liz,
Thanks for reaching out! I think Blue Sky’s Worsted Cotton would work great for this pattern! I just recommend working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to insure that you are consistent with the pattern!
Warmly,
Gianna
I love this pattern. I’m looking for a linen/cotton substitute for the yarn and wondering if you think your Lantern yarn would work?
Thanks.
Hi Martha,
Thanks for reaching out! Lantern could possibly work but the gauge may be a bit different since Lantern is a very unique yarn! So I would suggest working a gauge swatch prior to beginning the pattern if you end up going with Lantern! I would also suggest looking at Blue Sky Worsted cotton, that will have a more similar weight and texture to Linen Quill Worsted and may work better with this pattern!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
How much Worsted Cotton would you suggest?
Hi Rachel,
Thanks for reaching out! Depending on the style (there are 4 options) and size you are planning on making you will need anywhere from 5-13 skeins! If you let me know the size and style you would like to make I can get the exact amount for you!
I hope this helps!
Gianna
What a gorgeous sweater. Will add this pattern to my queue!
That’s a beautiful sweater. I’d like to make it for my daughter who lives in coastal California where one always needs a light sweater. Judging by the yarn weight and needle size I assume this is dense and a bit stiff. Would this pattern work with a lighter weight yarn to make a more drapey, lightweight sweater? If so, could you recommend a yarn?
Hi Annie,
Thanks for reaching out! Due to the complexity of this pattern it would be pretty difficult to re-gauge the pattern for a thinner yarn. However, Linen Quill Worsted is a lovely yarn and has great drape and breathability! If you want something a bit more warm-wether friendly then I would suggest using Blue Sky’s Worsted Cotton! Just be sure to check your gauge prior to beginning!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there,
This might sound like a silly or novice question but I’ve finished the front and back squares and the back has a hole in the center where I cast on in the round. I don’t see anything in the pattern instructions to specifically fix this other than weaving in ends. Is this really closed up at the very end? Is there a special weaving in ends technique where you could direct me for this type of piece?
Thank you!
Claire
Hi Claire,
Thanks for reaching out! Please send our team a photo of your work to [email protected] and we can troubleshoot where the hole came from and how to fix it from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m with Claire. I’m starting the back and don’t understand how there could be such a small opening in the pattern.
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for reaching out! I would also say to please send our team a photo of your work to [email protected] and we can troubleshoot further from there what this hole is and how to fix it!
Warmly,
Gianna
Curious where folks netted out on this—I, too, have a hole in the center of the back piece.
Hi Ann,
Thanks for reaching out! It looks like we never had a follow-up with photos regarding the hole so we are still unsure of this issue! Please send us some photos of your back piece to our team at [email protected] and hopefully we can finally get to the bottom of this!
Warmly,
Gianna
This is the hole that people are asking about. It’s the result of starting the knit in the round from casting on 12 stitches. I assumed I would need to see this up at the end, but directions would be nice. I’m emailing a picture.
Also, this pattern has unusual construction and the directions often leave us wondering whether we’re doing the right thing. It would be so much nicer to us customers if just a short sentence could be added at critical points to clarify what going in. For instance, if opening to the Back instructions said “Note that although you are “knitting in the round,” the increases spaces throughout every other round will result in a square piece.” I figured it out, but it hurt my head a bit until then. I’m still trying to visualize the Join Back & Front and Shape Shoulders &Hips sections.
Hi Kathryn,
Thanks for sending that picture in via email for reference! I wanted to let you know the hole is totally normal for this sweater and generally occurs when knitting in the round like you said. Apologies that we don’t have specific instructions for how to deal with that, but you’re also correct that you would just close it up when weaving in the yarn tail.
We hear you that there aren’t as many helpful notes detailing what’s going on and why in the pattern though. We released an update on May 11, 2021, in an effort to help clear things up, namely with that tricky Join Back & Front section. Ideally, you should be using version 3 at this point and that should now include a schematic and extra notes to help you visualize what’s actually going on.
I hope that helps, but please let us know if you’re still having trouble with any of that! I’ll be sure to pass your other concerns on to the design team as well in the meantime.
All the best,
Zha Zha
Would it be feasible to make the different modules in different colors? Thank you. It’s beautiful!
Hi Gwen,
Thanks for reaching out! I think this pattern would look so cute in different colors! Since the pattern is only written for one color it may be a bit tricky and require a bit of trial and error but I think it could definitely be possible!
If you do play around with this please let us know how it turns out! We would absolutely love to see!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m struggling to understand the back being worked in the round when the front was worked side to side. I’ll just jump in and start it – – but I’m having a tough time visualizing it…. what am I missing??
The back is a square which is worked centre out.
Looking for clarification before I begin to join front and back as I can’t quite visualize the instructions.
When performing the initial ssk, am I using the double pointed needles from the back or continuing with the circular needles that were used from the front portion?
Thank you!
Hi Madeline,
Thanks for reaching out! When starting the back section you will begin with the double pointed needles but will switch to circular needles when necessary since you increasing from 12 to 204 stitches. So, when you get to the join section you will already be using the circular needles! You will then begin by orienting your work so that the right side of the Back is facing you, you will k1, then with the right side of the Front facing you, you will join the Front to the Back by working the ssk, for this you will use the last Back stitch before on-hold stitches with the first stitch of Front!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
I’m also struggling with joining the back and front. After the initial ssk that you’ve described above, what exactly is being joined? A visual would really help because I can’t envision what happens after the ssk. Is that single stitch that joins back to front the only connection at that point, and then you keep picking up a few more stitches of connection each time you return to that spot while knitting in the round? Thanks!
Hi Meg,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, that is correct, it sounds like you are in the right direction to me! Thank you for expressing your interest in visual aids, I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi Gianna –
I have also been stuck on this point for a few weeks. Basically, I’m nervous to continue after doing all the work to knit the back and the front…. your directions are helpful, but I may still bring this into a knitting store. Wondering if someone could add a video for this joining bit.
Hi Holly,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m glad to hear my directions were helpful! However, if you would like any extra one-on-one assistance, please feel free to reach out to our customer service team at [email protected] they are more than happy to help with any issues and can work with you directly! Also, thank you for expressing your interest in a tutorial, I will certainly pass this along to the rest of the team!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there! Bought this patter, can’t wait to knit. However gauge has me worried: the yarn itself calls for size 6-7, the pattern calls for 4 and 5. To make gauge, I am actually using a slightly heavier yarn and using size 8!
Hi Camilla,
Thanks for reaching out! Gauge can definitely be a tricky thing to understand, but our tutorial All About Gauge is full of helpful information for all things gauge-related!
I’d say that the most important thing to pay attention to is matching the gauge called for in the pattern; the pattern will have been designed for that specific gauge, and matching that number (rather than the number suggested by the yarn) will be important in ensuring that your garment has the correct fit when it’s completed! When knitting a garment where fit is important (like sweaters vs. scarves), we always strongly recommend knitting up a gauge swatch before starting your project, to make sure that you’re using the correct needle size to achieve the proper gauge. It’s also important to make sure that you wash and block your gauge swatch the same way you will wash and block the finished garment; this will ensure that you’re getting an accurate gauge count, as most pattern gauges will be based on the count after blocking.
If you’re getting the correct gauge using a thicker yarn and working on a US8, then that’s what I’d use when knitting the pattern; however, I would recommend that if you haven’t already washed and blocked the swatch to go ahead and do that, to make sure you’re getting an accurate count. I’d also suggest knitting a swatch that is about 6″ x 6″; you’ll get a more accurate gauge count if you’re taking the measurement over 4″ rather than 1″, so a 6″ square swatch will allow you to get that gauge count with a little breathing room on either side!
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions! You can always email us at [email protected] if you need some additional help!
All the best,
Kelsey
I’m contemplating starting this sweater depending on size, yarn yardage and what I have in my stash – but I’m a little confused on picking sizes. I get ease, but this appears to be a crop style sweater – so when going with the hip measurements – I’m confused. I have wide hips but not a wide torso… I don’t want to end up swimming in the sweater. So, I was wondering if you could give some guidance on picking a size and the best place to truly measure on my body considering the cropped nature of the top.
Hi Kim,
Thanks for writing in! I understand how this can be a bit confusing! This sweater actually has every unique construction, where the body is actually knit in one size to create essentially a giant square (to achieve the cropped oversized look.) So actually the front and back are created the exact same for all sizes, it isn’t until you come to the SHAPE SHOULDER + HIPS section of the pattern that you will then increase for the size you are making. So because of this, and the general roominess through the bust, you will actually want to select a size based on your hip and arm measurements!
I hope this helps and please feel free to reach out with any more questions!
Gianna
Hi, this is such a cool pattern! I don’t understand the loop increases – where can I find more instructions and/or a picture?
Thanks, Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we don’t have a tutorial for this specific increase yet, but there are some great videos on youtube if you search M1l M1R Loop Increases!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello. In one of the comments above, there is a reference to an update to the pattern that was released in May 2021. I ordered this pattern before the update. Is it possible to obtain an updated pattern? I am in a spot that I have a question and am hoping the updated pattern will help.
Thanks!
Megan
Hi Megan,
Thanks for reaching out! When we make updates to the pattern, it will automatically update on our site. If you have already purchased the pattern then you can find the updated version in your account under MY PATTERN PDFS, from there you will simply press “download” next to the pattern and it will download the most recent version of the pattern. If you still have questions regarding the pattern, please feel free to write in here!
Warmly,
Gianna
I wanted to ask to see a photo of the hoodless short sleeve version on a model, but I did see that question was already asked. I also wanted to see what it looked like with the hood on the head. I think I like the pattern, but would love to see these looks before I commit to purchasing it. I’m sure others are waiting for these photos before they purchase as well
Hi M,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately, we only have photos of this popover available as seen on this page, for more photos I recommend checking out Ravelry or Instagram and searching “Center Point Popover” or #centerpointpopover
There are typically lots of photos from customers who have completed this project!
Warmly,
Gianna
I am also struggling with this pattern. I am now at the point where I am staring the hood. There is no sketch of the actual shape of the hood and the instructions provide 2 sets of different instructions for the left front hood. Typo ?
I cannot figure out when or if I need to turn the work after making the double stitch.
Help will be appreciated. Marie from Belgium
Hi Marie,
Thank you so much for reaching out. It looks like you might be using an older version of this pattern; you’re completely correct in that previously two different sections were both labeled “Left Front Hood” and we’ve since updated the pattern and fixed that error. We’re very sorry for the inconvenience! In the Hood section, the header at the top of page 5 should read “Right Front Hood”, not “Left Front Hood”.
I’ve gone ahead and emailed you the latest version of the pattern! And yes, you would turn your work after doing the double stitch in this section as the Hood is worked back and forth in rows.
Thank you again for reaching out! Please let us know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Cat
I, too, am interested in starting this, and am a bit intimidated by the construction. There are a lot of questions here about pictures. The Ravelry projects section on this pattern has quite a few great pictures of the different styles and projects in process and finished, with a few that have very extensive comments on suggestions that I’ve found helpful.
Also – being allergic to wool, I’m searching for a silk and/or linen that would work. Thoughts?
Hi Linda,
Thanks for writing in. I’m so glad that you’ve found Ravelry to be a helpful resource! Please know that we are always happy to help answer any questions you have about this pattern as you work through it, either in the comments section or by email ([email protected]).
In answer to your question about yarn, I would recommend using Lantern! Lantern is a worsted weight linen-wrapped cotton yarn. It definitely won’t be itchy like wool, and it has an interesting irregular pattern which will certainly make a unique garment. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I looked thought the comments and did not see it asked but I was wondering if there was a video tutorial of the hood bind off . I googled and can’t find a reverse icord bind off. And I did not see any links in the pattern.
Hello!
Thank you for your question! Unfortunately we do not have a video for a reverse I-cord bind off, however a reverse I-cord bind off is very similar to a regular I-cord bind off, but instead of knitting two stitches then working a k2tog, you will do a SSK and then knit two stitches, which will still create a nice I-cord edge. Alternatively, you could also bind off with a basic bind off, and then work an attached I-cord around the edge of your hood.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Would your Hedgerow yarn be good for this sweater? If so, would the yardage be about the same as with Linen Quill Worsted? Thank you so much!
Hi Melissa,
Thank you for your question! Yes, Hedgerow would be a great option for this pullover, as it is also a worsted weight (wool) yarn like Linen Quill Worsted! Hedgerow has 243 yards per skein, while Linen Quill Worsted contains 164 yards per skein, so you will need less Hedgerow for the same size in Linen Quill Worsted. To determine how many skeins you need, you can divide the total yardage for your desired size, sleeve, and hood option by 243 and round up to the nearest whole number. As always, when substituting yarn, we highly recommend making a gauge swatch first to make sure everything will turn out as intended. If you’d like some extra help with gauge swatching, our tutorial, All About Gauge, is a very useful resource!
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi Purl Soho, I have this pattern and had planned to use Linen Quill worsted as in the original. Now that the worsted version is discontinued, would Linen Quill fingering held double be an approximate exchange? From my calculations it may be a bit lighter in gauge than the worsted was. I really love the combo of alpaca and linen so would like to use fingering Quill if possible. Thanks!
Hi Court,
Thanks for writing in! Linen Quill held double would be a great choice for this pattern. You may need to use larger needles, but you should be able to match the gauge! The knit fabric will just end up being a little bit airier, but I think that’ll be a really nice quality for a large sweater like this!
All the best,
Lili
Hello!
I have a question about yarn substitution. I’d like to use an aran weight yarn for my Popover, but I’m having trouble deciding how much yarn I would need. The original yarn was worsted while Tulip Cotton was aran, yet the info about gauge and needle size are tailored for the worsted weight version. Do you have the same info about the aran weight version?
Thank you for any help you can give me!
Greca
Hi Greca,
Thanks for reaching out! While the words “aran” and “worsted” are often used to mean slightly different weights, they are also often used interchangeably. It might be best in this case to base your yarn selection on the gauge of the pattern, rather than how the yarn can be classified. In this case, we were able to use both Linen Quill Worsted and Tulip Cotton to achieve the same gauge, and the pattern instructions are exactly the same between versions!
If you think that you’ll be able to match the gauge of this pattern (18 stitches and 36 rounds = 4 inches in pattern stitch (knit 2 rows, purl 2 rows) on larger needles, after blocking) with the yarn that you’re considering, then it should be totally fine to use! As always though, we recommend knitting a gauge swatch before casting on your project, especially when you are substituting yarns. You may need to size up or down your needles in order to get the correct gauge!
In terms of yardage, that will depend more on fiber content than weight, since the fiber makes the yarn behave really differently when knit up. I would recommend taking a look at the yardage for the version that uses yarn that best matches the fiber content of the yarn you’re considering. That’ll give you the best estimate!
I hope this helps you plan your project, and please let me know if you have any other questions along the way!
All the best,
Lili
Hi. I am so excited to start in on the sweater. I am a bit confused about the loop increases. Is there a tutorial you can point me towards that gives a little more explanation or video? Thanks so much.
Hi Jacqui,
Thank you for writing in! You can find our backwards loop tutorial here!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Thanks so much!
What yarns would you recommend for this pattern since the original two are discontinued?
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! Since this pattern was designed for a worsted weight yarn, then I would recommend using Daily Wool. This yarn is also a worsted weight, so it’ll be easy to achieve the gauge of the pattern, and it’s also very soft and has great stitch definition.
Hope this helps you plan your project!
All the best,
Lili