Top-Down Turtleneck Cardigan
This sweater started as a design challenge to turn our bottom-up, saddle shoulder Purl Soho Pullover into a top-down, contiguous sleeve Cardigan… in a different gauge.
Instead of the original Pullover’s Worsted Twist, for this sweater I used Purl Soho’s lighter weight Mulberry Merino. Its lofty fine merino pairs beautifully with the strength and subtle luster of silk, making for the ideal three-season sweater!
Long story short… I did it. The Purl Soho Pullover now has a sister: the Top-Down Turtleneck Cardigan. Just as fun to knit, just as wearable, just as classic! -Laura
Update: New Yarns
October 15 2021
Because we love options, we knit up this classic pattern in two versions: one in our super light and cozy Brume, a blend of wool, mohair, and silk, and one in 100% undyed Andean highland Good Wool, a wonderfully natural choice. See the new versions here!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoTopDownTurtleneckCardigan. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
In addition to a Purl Soho Top-Down Turtleneck Cardigan Pattern Download, you’ll need…
- 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8) skeins of Purl Soho’s Mulberry Merino, 80% Extra Fine Merino Wool, 20% Mulberry Silk; approximately 1100 (1235, 1482, 1729, 1853, 1976) yards total. (NOTE: We no longer offer Mulberry Merino, but choose from one of our other sport weight yarns.)
- US 5 (3.75 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 5, 32-inch circular needles
- Set of US 5 double pointed needles
- 4 stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- 9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 11) ½-inch buttons. We used Purl Soho’s Smooth, 2-Hole Medium Mother of Pearl Buttons in the color Ecru.
Gauge
25 stitches and 36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
Sizes
NOTE For help picking a size, please check out our Understanding Ease + Selecting Size Tutorial!
31 (35, 38¾, 42½, 46½, 51)
To fit actual chest circumference of 25-28 (29-32, 33-36, 37-40, 41-44, 45-48) inches, with 3-6 inches of ease.
- Finished Chest Circumference: 31 (35, 38¾, 42½, 46½, 51) inches, buttoned
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Bottom Edge: 21¾ (22½, 23½, 24¼, 25¾, 26¼) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Bottom Edge: 12¼ (12¼, 12¾, 12¾, 13¼, 13¼) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 15 (15, 15½, 15½, 15¾, 15¾) inches
SAMPLE: The sweater pictured here is size 42½, modeled with 6½ inches of ease.
Pattern
The Top-Down Turtleneck Cardigan Pattern is available for purchase as as PDF download.
Update: New Color!
March 6, 2017
Recent glimpses of spring have added pep to my step, but so has our new palette of Mulberry Merino! Check out our latest story to see how the Top-Down Turtleneck Cardigan is just right for celebrating these new colors! -Laura
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Just wondering what degree of difficulty this is. I have made the PurlSoho Pullover for my granddaughter, but would love to make this for myself. I have never made a cardigan – intermediate to advanced beginner.
Thank you!
Hi Sharyn.
According to the Craft and Yarn Council, this sweater would be classified as “Advanced”, but that is only because there are a couple/few short rows to shape the back of the shoulders. Discounting that portion of the pattern, I would personally call it advanced beginner to intermediate.
The shaping is done along 4 stitch markers, there’s a built-in, slip-stitch button bands which is easy as can be and there’s a fun technique used at the underarms that eliminates the need for kitchener (for graft the side body to the sleeves).
The one thing you do have to remember to do is make button holes every so often, sometimes that’s easy to forget once you’re cruising along in stockinette.
Plus, we’re always here to help you out.
Let us know if you have any questions along the way!
Laura
I love your patterns and pictures, but sometimes it would be great to see the garments on a real person. Thank you for considering this.
Yes! I was thinking the same thing. This is a beautiful sweater, but I’d like to see how the neckline fits on a real person, how it looks buttoned and also open. Thanks for the suggestion, Karin!
Me too!
Yes please!
Hi Jennifer, Tina and Heather.
For additional photos…
https://instagram.com/p/1ODy3yDhdu/
https://instagram.com/p/1OEGdljheS/
Thanks!
Laura
Gorgeous design. Would really appreciate a picture of somebody actually wearing it;)
Hi Katie.
For additional photos…
https://instagram.com/p/1ODy3yDhdu/
https://instagram.com/p/1OEGdljheS/
Thanks!
Laura
Lovely. Thanks for the pictures on models. It helps to visualize the sweater a bit better. Would it be difficult to make thecollar a bit narrower? I live in Florida and that color would be a bit much, but I love the shape of this sweater. Kudos to the designer.
Hi Debra,
Thanks for writing in! The collar itself is slightly looser than a standard turtleneck. To knit the neck more narrow than it currently is, you could cast on fewer stitches. I would be careful to be sure that the neck is not too tight. As the sweater is knit from the neck down, you could do some trial and error on this front, perhaps casting on for the number of stitches for a size or two smaller but being sure to increase to the correct number of stitches for your size.
Alternately, you could omit the collar all together. The way the pattern is written, you cast on at the very top of the turtleneck and work down to the shoulders with some subtle increasing. But it would be easy enough to cast on the number of stitches indicated after that last increase, work for about a 1/2 inch and then jump into the yoke portion of the pattern! If you decide to do this you’ll have to let me know how it goes.
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
This sweater looks so beautiful! Would this pattern work with the Purl Soho line weight yarn? Thanks!
Hi Antonia.
Our Line Weight yarn is too thin for this sweater, but now you have my wheels turning, thinking of how to modify this saddle shoulder at a third gauge!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I just finished it in a light silk/wool yarn. I did my gauge with the yarn I wanted to use and then choose the measurement I wanted for chest-multiply them and then that told me what size on the pattern to follow. It was perfect. This is the first pattern I have ever completed and been 100% pleased with the fit and styling.
I was thinking that it would be cool to make this a pullover – with the neck and buttons as is. Probably way more complicated than I could do as a modification, especially if it needed a placket, but maybe something for future.
Yes, this is something I would love too!
I’d love to make this for my mom, but I have a silk allergy, so working with the mulberry merino would be unpleasant…which of your yarns could be substituted?
Hi Jeanne.
I made a prototype using one strand of 2ply cashmere (https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/614-Jade-Sapphire-2-ply-Cashmere) and 1 strand of our Line Weight (https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9249-Purl-Soho-Line-Weight) yarn.
Other good options are:
Anzula’s Cricket https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8710-Anzula-Cricket
Madelinetos’s Tosh Merino DK https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8640-Madelinetosh-Tosh-Merino-DK
Brooklyn Tweed’s Loft https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8430-Brooklyn-Tweed-Loft
Let me know if you have any questions on there or other you find!
Laura
Avez-vous les explications en français, merci cette veste est sublime
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for your interest in the pattern.
We only have this written in English.
Best,
Laura
Hi!! I love the cardigan, but I wonder if I have to knit and purl?? Or just knit and then open it in front when the knitting is done?? AnneK
Hi Anne.
This sweater does require both knitting and purling.
Thanks for writing in.
Best,
Laura
Wow, it looks great!
Could you please help me with the size?
I want to knit it in XS, but i couldnt converse your sizes.
Thanks and greetings from germany.
Anne
Hey Anne,
Thank you for commenting! I would recommend making the 31″ bust size for an extra small. When you follow the pattern use the first number before the (). All of the finishing dimensions are on the pattern so you can measure yourself to make sure you have the right size!
I hope this helps and feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
In the directions starting with ABBREVIATIONS
m1L purlwise (make one left purlwise, worked on the wrong side)
m1R (make one right purl wise, worked on wrong side)
In directions in COLLAR
when you get to Increase Row (right side) ?
I am confused if you are to be working on the knit side or the purl side as per instructions from Abbreviations.
Thank you for your help.
Dear KV,
Thank you so much for writing, this is a great question! The m1L/m1R purlwise are only for when you have to increase on wrong side rows, which will only happen in the sleeve caps. For the rest of the pattern when you have increase rows on the right side you will follow the m1L/m1R tutorial that we have on the blog. You can view those tutorials here; https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/08/13/make-one-right-m1r-make-one-left-m1l/
I hope this clarifies the pattern and feel free to respond if there’s anything else you need help with!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
This sweater is so lovely! I’ve just purchased the pattern and I am itching to get started-but I have a question…I test swatched using the slip 1 x3 at the edge and I am wondering why we slip them? I can’t seem to get a nice edge with the slipped stitch and I’m wondering if I can make do without slipping??
Thanks! Katrina
Hi Katrina,
Thank you for the comment! You do the slip 3 at the edge in order to get a mock i-cord to stop the opening edges from curling. You can absolutely opt out of that pattern but your edges will curl inward. If you are having difficulty with the float I recommend blocking the swatch because it might help that roll edge get all sorted out.
I hope this helps and feel free to write back if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
Hello,
I bought this pattern too and it is funny because I was also wondering why I have to slip 3 stitches at the beginning of each row. I did some searches in internet and discovered the Icord concept, so now I’m wondering if I also have to slip 3 stitches at the end of each row? Should I? For all of them, do I need only to slip the stitches or do I need to change my yard from front to rear and so on? Would be great if you have a video to show the way to do it and the result… Thanks in advance – Céline
Hi Celine.
Thanks for writing in.
You only have to slip three at the beginning of each row. If you slipped them at both the beginning and end of each row, they would never get knit.
On the right side, slip the three stitches with the yarn in back and on the wrong side, slip the three stitches with the yarn in front. Again, only slip the first 3 stitches of each row, not the last 3.
Thanks again for writing in and for the video suggestion. We’ll see what we can do!
Laura
Yes please, this pattern modified for Line Weight gauge would be most welcome by this knitter!
Hi Brenda,
Thank you for the comment! Unfortunately we cannot reconfigure the pattern for the Line Weight yarn as it is very time consuming. One thing you can do is make one or two sizes larger than you intend to wear and that will give you a roughly reconfigured pattern. This is not an exact science but in my experience it has worked pretty well.
I hope this helps and feel free to respond if you have anymore questions!
Happy Knitting!
Jake
I have started this sweater 3 times! in a lovely soft cotton yarn. I think figured out last night why my sleeve caps are not working…after the first m1 and then slip marker the directions indicate we go to one stitch before NEXT marker and make one 2 MORE (?) times. Each sleeve has increases on opposite rows and back will have two increases on every row?? Please clarify –
Other observations the ? on abbreviations was the first one that threw me – future editions should give the increases on knit side.
Finally there is a small typo on sleeve cap instructions -marker is misspelled. I LOVE the sweater and really want to make it !!
Hi Susan!
Thanks for writing in to us.
First off… we’ll get that “marker” spelled correctly straight away. Thanks for pointing it out!
Regarding the abbreviations section, I just want to make sure I’m understanding your request correctly… you would prefer if we also included the instructions for m1R on the right side and m1L on the right side, up in the abbreviations section? We did debate this quite a bit. We ended up taking out basic increases and decreases (k2tog, ssk, m1R, m1L), but it’s good to know if these are abbreviations you’d like to see included. I do hope I’m understanding you correctly. Please let me know! This type of feedback is great. We really appreciate you taking the time to write in and share your experience.
Ok, and now, as for those increases in the SLEEVE CAP section… after working the first three stitches you have a set of instructions inside of [brackets] and then just after the brackets it says “2 times”. You’ll do everything within those brackets and then do them once more, making a total of 2 times. So… you purl to the next marker, slip it, purl one, then increase, then purl to one stitch before the following marker, increase, then purl one and slip that marker. And then do everything from “[purl to next marker, sm…” to “…p1, sm]” again! Does that help clarify it a bit? Essentially you’re increasing along the inside edges of both saddle to create the sleeve cap.
Please let me know if you have any questions!
And thank you again.
Laura
As soon as I began I ran into some confusion..Slipping 3 purl stitches didn’t say whether yarn should be in front or back…I figured out front but it would have been easier if you had included it in the instructions..Thanks..
Hi Joyce.
I am so sorry about the confusion.
Thanks so much for writing in and sharing your experience with us and our readers. Your feedback is great.
Thanks again.
Laura
I purchased the pattern order #0000585649
My question page 2 increase row of collar is on the right side
the increases in the abbreviations are on a wrong side row.
What to do here is the question. Thank you
Hi Martha.
Thanks for writing in. On the right side, I used a basic make 1 right and make 1 left increase method. For how to work a m1R and m1L on the right side the fabric, please visit our video or photo tutorial!
Thanks again for writing in.
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
Laura
I’ve purchased the pattern and the Mulberry merino yarn, love the look and feel.
A question about the three slipped stitches to form the faux i-cord edging: When the three stitches are slipped purl-wise and with yarn in front the way they are ‘saddled’ on the needle does not change so when they are knit on the following row you are knitting a ‘normal’ stitch. When the three stitches are slipped knit-wise and with yarn in back it changes the way they are saddled on the needle so when they are purled on the next row you end up with a twisted stitch. This leads to slightly different looking edges. I would suggest slipping the stitches at the beginning of the knit (right side) rows in a purl-wise fashion with the yarn in back so as to avoid the twisted stitches.
My question is-how difficult would it be to modify this into a hooded cardigan?
Hi Paula.
Interesting question!
I haven’t considered this before. I guess you could make the collar longer, adding in some shaping to accommodate the shape of a head and then seam the two sides together along the top to create a hood. It may not be the most elegant of solutions, but I don’t think it would be too difficult!
You’ll have to let us know how it goes if you do it!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
Debating on size . I am a 36″ bust , narrow at the hips and am 5’3″. The pattern mentions a 2 to 3″” ease. Does this mean the ease is figured into the size 35?
Hi Dottie!
Thanks for writing in!
The given dimensions are the finished measurements of the sweater. If I had a 36 inch bust I would make the 38 3/4 inch size. That way you’ll have 2 3/4 inches of ease.
Please let us know if you have any questions!!
Laura
Are these sleeves considered a dolman sleeve?
Where do you start to measure the underarm and shoulder? Do you have a diagram?
I finished the sweater and find that the neck neither stands up nor falls in a flattering way. I am disappointed and am now in the process of trying to figure a way to tighten it around my neck so that I can actually wear it and feel comfortable with the way it looks.
Is the yarn double knit or 4 ply?
Hi Susan.
Thanks for writing in! Mulberry Merino, the yarn I used here, is what we, in the US, call Sport Weight. It falls right between a UK 4ply and DK Weight. I would try and find a yarn that makes a not-too-stiff and not-too-drapey fabric when knit up at 25 stitches to 4 inches/10cm.
I do hope this helps! Please let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
I just love this cardigan and would LOVE to knit it. As I will be buying my yarn in the UK could you tell me what yarn weight I need to use e.g. Double knit, 4 ply, Aran.
Look forward to hearing from you
Many thanks
Sandra
Hi Sandra.
Thanks for writing in! Mulberry Merino, the yarn I used here, is what we, in the US, call Sport Weight. It falls right between a UK 4ply and DK Weight. I would try and find a yarn that makes a not-too-stiff and not-too-drapey fabric when knit up at 25 stitches to 4 inches/10cm.
Let us know if you have any questions!
Laura
The instructions say ” has 2-4 inches of ease around the chest.” What does that mean again? If I measure 38″ around the largest part of my chest, which size should I make? I don’t want it super large and hanging off me, but want to be able to breathe. 🙂 Thanks, Audrey
Hi Audrey.
Thanks for writing in! Great question. 2-4 inches of ease means that we recommend making a sweater that measures 2-4 inches larger than your chest measurement. This, of course, is up to the knitter! If I measured 38 inches around the bust, I would probably make 42 1/2 inch size. That being said… if you did want the sweater to be quite snug, you could make the 38 3/4 inch size. This does not leave much breathing room, especially for a cardigan. You may get some pulling along the buttoned front.
Also, depending on which yarn you’re using, you could heavily block your swatch to see how it will grow and age. Perhaps if you’re working slightly looser than gauge, that 38 3/4 inch size would be perfect!
Please let me know if you have any questions! I just loved making this sweater. I hope you do too!
Laura
This is beautiful. Is the sweater wearable as a non-turtleneck? In other words, does the collar work if you knit as is BUT don’t button those top 3-4 buttons?
Hi Shirley.
Great question! I like this cardigan buttoned us well as unbuttoned. You might find some photos on our Instagram feed helpful…
https://instagram.com/p/1OEGdljheS/
https://instagram.com/p/1ODy3yDhdu/
Let us know what you think! Or if you have any questions!!
Thanks.
Laura
This looks like a great project for the fall; however, I’m in coastal California, and the turtleneck is a bit too much. I’m wondering if it would be possible to start lower on the neckline, perhaps five or six rows before the saddle shoulders begin, to make this a more open-neck cardigan. Your thoughts?
Hey Marjie.
I love your idea!!
The way the pattern is written, you cast on at the very top of the turtleneck and work down to the shoulders with some subtle increasing. But it would be easy enough to cast on the number of stitches indicated after that last increase, work for about a 1/2 inch and then jump into the yoke portion of the pattern!
If you decide to do this you’ll have to let me know how it goes. What a wonderful modification!
Laura
Hi,
just bought the pattern. The credit card confirmed payment.
Didn´t receive the link to download. Will you please verify if any error has ocurred? Thanks.
Hi Lilian.
Our Customer Service team will be in touch with you straight away!
Thanks.
Laura
I live in south Florida and would love to make it with a lighter yarn that I could wear all the time. Any suggestions?
Hello Ginny!
This yarn is actually quite light weight and has a lovely blend of silk mixed with wool, so its not meant to be insanely warm! I would get a skein and try it out to see how you like it!
If you do think its too heavy, you could make this pattern in Koigu’s fingering weight, or Anzula’s Squishy in order to make it a little more airy and even more light weight.
Thanks for writing in! -Alyson
Thanks Alyson! I bought some yarn to try my first attempt since I have never tried something so complicated. I am doing the pullover first and then will do the cardigan. I am picking my battles. Ha. Ha. Can’t wait to try your suggestions on alternative yarns. We are near Miami and 90 degrees is hot.
I am starting to work on the sleeves but something seems off with the instructions. How joining the yarn at the start of the provisional stitches, kntting the set number then placing the marker related to the decrease instructions for shape sleeve. It feels more correct to start the sleeve rown by moving set number of stiches to the right needle, joining the yarn then have the decrease stiches start and end there. Please advise.
Hi Carolyn.
Thanks for writing in! Your way would work too! You can slip those 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 11) stitches to the right needle, place the marker and then join the yarn and work to the end of the round. You way is very precise and prevents those k5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 11) stitches from being worked an extra partial row!
Thanks again for writing in. And please let us know if you have any questions.
Laura
I live in England and I love getting your emails with the really interesting knitting designs. I would like to make this great looking cardigan and wondering about yarns that I can get over here, Checking Debbie Bliss, both the Eco Baby Cotton and the Baby Cahmerino seem to fit the tension, but perhaps you know of something else, would appreciate your advice.
Many thanks.
Hi, Lynda!
Thank you very much for writing in! It sounds like you’re on the right track on your search for suitable wool, both the Eco Baby Cotton and the Baby Cashmerino will work. Just be sure to make a test swatch to be certain that you’re getting the correct gauge. Also, I think the Baby Cashmerino will drape better than the Eco Baby Cotton because cotton tends to be a bit stiff. Finally, we do ship internationally!
If you have further questions please let us know! And again, thank you for kind words and your question!
Happy knitting,
Kumeko
Hello,
I’m very happy to knit your pattern, but….
I’ve a problem (probably because of my english…) to understand the separate for side slits +shape edges, the row 2 ?
K50,( I break the yarn?), 53 stitches on scrap yarn, (for what?), K96, (break yarn too?), 96 stitches on scrap yarn (for what too?), K53
That’s make 5 groups of stitches
For the right front I need 53 stitches, so what I do with the first K50…
You see, I’m lost…
Thanks for your help
Sabine
Hi
I’m hoping you can help me with this pattern.
In the instructions as an example it says “Set-Up Row…place marker (pm) p13 etc…” Then the “pm” becomes slip marker “sm” a stitch that you move across without knitting from the left needle to the right needle?
My question is when I move that same stitch “sm” without knitting on each row it is pulling up and bunching.
Can you please explain “sm” in more detail for this idiot :}
So very much appreciated for your help with this.
I love this cardigan and would love to complete it so it looks like the photo.
Thank you Cathy
Hi Julie,
Thanks for writing in! The “pm’ indicates that you will place a stitch marker. We carry several varieties that would work well for this project:
https://www.purlsoho.com/small-stitch-marker-rings.html
https://www.purlsoho.com/white-ring-markers-small.html
https://www.purlsoho.com/tools/notions/leather-and-brass-stitch-marker-set.html
The “sm” indicates that you will slip that marker and not the stitch.
I hope that this clears things up!
Happy knitting!
-Cassy
I just want to add that “I LOVE THIS SWEATER” I have made 2 and they are perfect. I converted to a fingering weight and was able to keep to your numbers just making a different size. Top down pullover next on my list. I found the pattern very well written and easy to understand. Kudos to Purlsoho!
I love, love this pattern but I’ve been trying to avoid wool (especially merino) and all other animal fibers. Can you suggest an appropriate cotton, bamboo, or linen? Would it look/drape as nice in any of those? Thank you so much.
Hi Jumana,
Thanks for writing in and our apologies for the delay! For this sweater we used a DK/Sport weight yarn. For an alternative that contains no animal fibers, Blue Sky Skinny Cotton has a similar gauge to our Mulberry Merino. You may also want to try Kalinka 41 knit to the gauge suggested for this project. I think that the linen cotton blend of this yarn would be lovely!
I hope that this helps and happy knitting!
Cassy
Hello, Cassy,
Thank you for your response. (I’m very late in responding, too!) Your suggestions sound great. I will definitely try the linen cotton blend.
Hi, Purl Soho team!
Just moved out of the city and I miss you already. I am doing a gauge for this sweater and I have had to go down two needle sizes already from the size recommended 5 in the pattern. I typically knit to gauge, so I’m a little concerned about having enough yarn (I bought 6 hanks for the 38 3/4 size). Do you think that there is room in the budget for me to complete the project with the yarn I have, or do I need to add another hank?
Thanks!
Dear Sandra,
Thanks for writing in and we are sorry that we will not be seeing you in the shop as frequently! So long as you are getting the recommended gauge using Mulberry Merino, you should have enough yarn for your size. An additional skein could provide some cushion if you are still concerned about having enough. If you leave the additional skein in its original form and do not end up needing it, you can exchange it for store credit within 6 months (https://www.purlsoho.com/return-policy/). You could also make a lovely matching Dovetail Scarf.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi, I want to knit this using a different type of yarn. (Actually going to do it intarsia with multiple colors) On my test swatch when I have 25 sts./inch I’m only getting 30 rows, not 36. Thinking the place where I might have some problems would be the shoulder area which would be too short vertically. Do you agree? I was thinking to make the next size up to get shoulders to work and measure other lengths to fit…. Or, maybe this is something that can be worked out in the blocking…? Appreciate any advice you can give. Thanks.
Hi McCrystle,
Thank you for writing in and so sorry about the late reply! Your row gauge will actually make the your chest area longer because it takes less rows than the pattern gauge to get to 1″. For example, if the chest area encompasses 40 rows, your gauge yields 5 1/4″ and our gauge yields 4 1/2″ approximately. Because the chest area only has so many rows, I don’t think you have to worry. Also, this is a top-down pattern, so you can customize it as you go! Best of luck on the project!
-Adam
Hi. I started knitting this cardigan and have reached the section for the shoulders. I am trying to figure out how where I increase the saddles from 13 stitches to 19stitches. All I can see is where I increase 4 stitches – 1x for each sleeve and 2 for the back. Thank you
Julie
Hello Julie,
Thanks for your question! Sorry for the late reply! The increase from 13 stitches to 19 stitches for each saddle section happens in the “collar” section of the pattern. The “increase row” happens three times, giving you a total of six stitches increased in each of the saddle sections. This is how you arrive at 19! It’s a lot to look at but if you read the pattern carefully it will become clearer! Best of luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
The total increase in the collar section is 8 stitches. Or is it not?
Hi Diane,
In this comment I was actually referring to her question about the “Shape Yoke” section where the stitches in the sleeve area increase from 13 to 19 each side. In the collar section, you actually increase 12 stitches because you do the initial increase row and then it tells you to **knit 1 1/2″, repeat increase row. The directions then say to repeat from ** to end once more. This comes to three repeats of the 4 stitch increase row, totaling 12 stitches increased over the neck. I hope this clears things up!
-Adam
J`aimerais avoir ce modèle en français. Merci ! Je trouve dommage qu’on ait pas plus de modèle en français. j’aimerais une réponse. Merci !
Bonjour Jocelyne,
Merci de nous écrire. Malheureusement à ce moment nous n’avons pas les resources de traduire nos modèles en français. Peut-être à l’avenir!
Merci,
Adam
I love the look of this sweater and it looks like it would be a lot of fun to knit! I was wondering if I could knit it in Worsted twist instead of Mulberry Merino? I live in a very cold climate and I have some skeins of worsted twist! Normally I would knit either the 35 or 38 (bust size is 33 but I am hesitating because I tend to knit tightly) so I would size down to the 31″. Do you think that would work? And if so, how many skeins of worsted twist would I need? Thank you so much!
Hi Pastille,
Thanks for writing in. I’m so glad you love the pattern! According to the math, if you achieve five stitches per inch in the Worsted Twist, you will end up with a 40″ chest approximately in size 31. Five stitches per inch is about the tightest gauge Worsted Twist can go, so if you get it, then I’d try to do size 31. If you want the sweater more fitted, you can use the pattern as a guide and try it on every so often since it’s top down. You’ll have to do some math for the neck cast on, but with your gauge swatches you’ll be able to figure that out! Let me know if you have any questions!
-Adam
Could I make this top down turtleneck in your cotton pure? I can not wear wool.
Hi Debra,
Thanks for writing in! Cotton Pure should work as a substitute for Mulberry Merino in this project. They do have a similar gauge. I would be sure to do a gauge swatch to ensure that you like the fabric at the gauge for this sweater.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I love this pattern but I am struggling to get my gauge swatch correct. I started with the recommended 5 needles and my 25 stitch/36 row swatch measured 5.5″ rather than 4″. I tried 4’s, still too big. I have now moved to 3’s and my swatch still measures 5″! What am I doing wrong? I actually knit the entire neck and it was HUGE (smallest size). I took it to three local knit shops and they all tell me my gauge (stitches per inch) is correct but somehow the swatch ends up too big, therefore the garmet will be too big as well. I live too far to visit the store for help. I am using the recommended yarn, all purchased from Purl, of course! Help!
Hi Polly,
Hmm, it seems that you might be a very loose knitter. This isn’t a bad thing; just something you’ll have to keep in mind for sweaters and such. Gauge for this sweater is very important and you’ll want to hit at least 24 stitches over 4″. I suggest going down to whatever needle size works to get the gauge. If you still can’t get the gauge, I’d examine how you are tensioning and holding your yarn. This affects your gauge a lot! I hope you can get it! Let me know if I can help in any other way!
Best,
Adam
I don’t know if this has been addressed,but if you make the buttonholes at the end of the row on the right side,won’t they be on the left side of the sweater? Thank you.
Hi Julie,
Thanks for writing in! This is a top down pattern, so the buttonhole will end up on the wearer’s right side. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hello, I am in the process of knitting my test swatches and I could use a little advice on the sizing of this sweater. I have a chest circumference of 33″, and will wear this sweeter as a second layer. Do you think that the 35″ size would be a little too small? At the moment I am getting a gauge of 4 1/4″ – would it be a good idea to go ahead with that gauge for a little extra room or would you suggest I use a smaller needle?
Thanks so much in advance!
Hi Pastille,
Thanks for writing in to us! I think that you should go for the size 35 if you plan to wear one layer underneath. However, your gauge is way off at 4.25 stitches to the inch. You should be at 6.25 stitches to the inch. At your gauge, you’ll end up with a 47.5″ chest doing the smallest size. I’d definitely reswatch on a smaller needle. You might have to go down drastically to get the gauge. Best of luck!
-Adam
Hi Adam,
Thank you for getting back to me. However I don’t think my question was clear! My gauge is not 4.25 stitches to the inch, it is 4.25 inches = 25 stitches and 36 rows in stockinette stitch, so my swatch is a little bigger than recommended. Would you still recommend going down to a smaller needle for someone with a 33″ chest circumference? Would the size 35″ sweater be on the snug side for me or should I try and get the exact gauge? What will the finished size of the sweater be with my current gauge?
Thanks again in advance!
Hi Pastille,
Thanks for writing back! Sorry for the misunderstanding. I think your gauge is fine for this project. Your sweater will be ever-so-slightly larger than the original sample, but it will be minute. I say go ahead and cast on for the size 35! Best of luck and don’t hesitate to write back if you have any questions!
-Adam
I was just going to purchase the pattern for the “Top Down Cardigan” and was wondering if you have a suggestion for a yarn that is not wool or one with any animal fibres (I am very allergic). I imagine it has to be a yarn that would have some body in it so that the collar didn’t just collapse? This pattern has been on my “to do” list for so long… it’s such a nice pattern!
Hi Carol,
Thanks for writing us! I suggest the Cotton Pure yarn for this cardigan. I think it’s a great substitute and it has enough body to keep the collar looking great! Let me know what you think!
Best,
Adam
I’ve just begun knitting this sweater, and am unclear about where the yarn should be when I slip the stitches purl-wise x3 and knit-wise x3 in the collar. Also, when I purl or knit the following (4th) stitch, how tight should I pull the yarn?
Many thanks in advance for any guidance on this! I’m excited about the sweater – the first I’ve ever made for myself.
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing us! Glad you are excited about the sweater. When you slip three purlwise your yarn will be in front and when you slip three knitwise your yarn will be in back. The next stitch (the first worked stitch) should be knitted or purled any tighter than you would usually do. Hope this helps!
-Adam
I’m coming to the end of this sweater and have really enjoyed the pattern, and absolutely love the mulberry merino! The only issue is that the bottom is curling a lot. Will it relax once it has been blocked? What blocking method would you recommend for this sweater?
Also, will mulberry merino pile?
Thank you so much!
Hello Pastille,
Thank you for reaching out! I’m thrilled to hear you are having such a positive experience with our yarn and pattern. Blocking your sweater should relax the fiber and fix the curling issue. I would wet block your sweater. With all animal fibers you will get some pilling and Mulberry Merino is no exception. As you wear and touch your new sweater you will get some pilling. I would recommend purchasing a Gleener (we use this on all our samples in the shop) to have on hand once the inevitable pilling occurs. Let us know if you have any further questions!
-Marilla
Hi, I bought this pattern and got the link, but would love to have it in print. would it be possible for you to send me the printed version when I order wool? (order #100092120)
are there any other colors available for the Mulberry Merino?
thanks and regards, Helene
Hi Helene,
Thanks for the question. We can change your original order to a print copy if you place a new order for the yarn. Just include in the Special Instructions portion of the new order your original order number and that you would like a print copy of that pattern.
Here is a link to our Mulberry Merino colors:
https://www.purlsoho.com/mulberry-merino.html
Kindly,
Anna
Hi
Having trouble meeting guage dropped down to a size 3 and still getting 22 stitches for 4 inches…
what do you suggest pattern calls for 5 using the directed yarn!!
thanks so much!!
Hi Lucille,
I would keep going down a needle size. Every knitter is different and it is possible that you need to size down some more!
Are you using the yarn we recommend?
Best,
Carly
Hi all! I was ? If this garment would look good on a bigger busted female? I have had problems with this issue for many yrs. and clothing can look ‘sloppy’ because of it……much shorter length in front w a constant thought of pulling the garment forward as it tends to fall backwards. Thoughts? Thanks.
Hi Pam,
Thank you for reaching out! This sweater does have short row shaping in the back yoke which pushes the whole sweater forward over the front of the body. I would recommend comparing your measurements with the patterns sizes and go from there.
I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
Hello,
I am very interested in making this sweater. I love the tall neck and saddle shoulders. However I would like to put in a zipper front instead of buttons. Do you think that would work? I figure I would shorten the neck some and have the zipper come up to the base of the neck and let the collar flare. I’m finding very few zippered sweater designs that I like. Also can you advise the kind of zipper that would work with that yarn weight?
Thank you!
Hi Donna,
Thanks for writing in! Great idea! We do have a handy tutorial for inserting a zipper in knits that can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/zippers-in-knits/
The thing to note here is that this sweater was not designed with a zipper in mind but rather with fronts that overlap for a button closure. That is to say that, inserting a zipper as one may normally would mean that the sweater would fit a bit wider than intended. You will want to keep this in mind when deciding on the size that you want to make and the fit that you are looking for!
As far as the type of zipper to use, you will want to use a separating zipper of appropriate length, something like this one: https://www.purlsoho.com/separating-zippers-18-inches.html You will want to measure your knit piece before deciding on the zipper length but it is also a good idea to keep common zipper lengths in mind while knitting!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I’m nearly finished the body of this sweater and I like it so far but I’m wondering if there is a way to keep the bottom of the body and the sleeves from curling. Blocking won’t really work that effectively and I don’t want to lose the nice detail at the sides. Any suggestions. Thank you
Hello Cathleen,
Thank you for reaching out! Blocking is going to be the best solution to this issue. How intense is the curling on your sweater? Some curling with this project is inevitable, but can be fixed by soaking the finished piece in warm water and mild blocking soap and then letting it dry flat. This will relax your fibers to reduce the curling. ? I hope this is helpful and please let me know if you have any further questions.
Happy knitting!
-Marilla
this would be a wonderful pattern to convert to steek. is there a lot of shaping in the front-center?
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! For this lovely pattern, there is not a lot of shaping in the front. However, the button holes are worked as you go so that would need to be taken into account if you were to knit it in the round and steek it. You would also have to add in a different type of button band than we use here but what a fun challenge that could be!
Best,
Cassy
My button band seems to be knitting up shorter than the body due to the slipped stitches. This causes a weird runching effect that I am sure was not the intention.
I looked online for tutorials, but couldn’t find anything. Help?
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in, and I’m sorry to hear that your sweater is not turning out quite right! Since the edge stitches are only slipped on every other row and either knitted or purled on the following row, they shouldn’t cause any gathering and the edge should lay flat, especially after blocking. It is hard to say exactly what might be going wrong without seeing work, so if you are still having difficulties, please feel free to send a picture to customerservice@purlsoho.com so we can try to troubleshoot this for you!
Best,
Julianna
I am looking for a top down sweater pattern, no cardigan. Could this be adapted? Your patterns and instructions are very good, so I thought I would inquire.
Hello Jill,
Thanks for reaching out! This is a great idea, you would need to knit the whole sweater in the round rather than flat. This means that you will need to translate all of the purl rows into knit rows. You would also eliminate all of the button holes.
Keep us posted on how it goes!
Warmly,
Marilla
Hi – For some reason I’m hopelessly confused by the the 4 short rows in this pattern. First, how come only 4 rows? And then, on the first wrap and turn, I purl back to the beginning. So shouldn’t the 2nd short row be knit again? Shouldn’t the shaping be on both sides? Help!!!! And many thanks – Willa
Hello Willa,
Thank you for reaching out! You will be knitting your short rows on both your purl and knit sides. The second row should read “Short Row 2 (wrong side): Purl to 15 stitches before next marker, wrp-t”
I hope this clears things up for you and let us know if you have any further questions!
Happy knitting,
Marilla
i love this cardigan, the size of the stitches etc but i’m thinking a regular round/jewel neck would make it even more versatile, is there a way to skip the “turtle” part and convert the pattern into a classic cardigan? thanks.
Hi Susan,
Great question! I think you could accomplish this quite easily by casting on the final number of collar stitches, which can be found at the very end of the collar instructions, and proceeding immediately to the yoke.
Best of luck, and please let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
I think there is a problem with the arithmetic. I am knitting the size 42.5. At the end of the shoulder saddle, I have 19 stitches. I then added 4 to each sleeve (in the section FOR SIZES (-38…). total is now 23.
Now I am in FOR ALL SIZES. for 42.5, I am told to increase every other row, 16x, which means a total of 32 sts each sleeve for a total of (…65,,, st). When I do the the arithmethetic:
19 + 4 = 23
23 + 32 = 55
not 65. So what do I do? I looked at the underarm increases, and it looks like I will have 67 sts at sleeve separation, not 77 (as stated).
It looks like I will get to a total of 83 sts with the additional sleeve cast-ons (not 93, as stated). At gauge, this is still 13.4″, which might be OK, but also might account for the tight sleeve/loose body I see on ravelry.
Hi Margaret,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! In the “SHAPE SLEEVE CAP” section for the size 42.5, you will go from 19 stitches for each sleeve to 31 stitches for each sleeve. You will work rows 1 and 2 and then work them an additional 2 times, adding a total of 12 stitches to each sleeve (19+12= 31 stitches). Then in the “For All Sizes” directions, you will work rows 1 and 2 and then work them an additional 16 times (17×2= 34 stitches). The 31 stitches that you end with on the first part of this section plus the 34 stitches that you add on the last part will equal 65 stitches.
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hello, I finished this project a few weeks ago. A good challenge and I’m extremely happy with the end result. I used Touch Yarns pure Merino. After blocking; perfect. Thank you for such a wonderful pattern.
I got my pattern last year when it was free on your website. it appears there is an error on p.2 COLLAR in the increase row following the set up row. the instructions give directions for 3 increases, but the end of the section says there are 4 stitches increased.
it seems to me there should be an increase just before the first marker is slipped as well as after.
is there an errata published for this?
Hi Nell,
Thanks for reaching out! This row should work out correctly with four increases! The repeat in this row, which reads, [knit to next marker, slip marker (sm), k1, m1L (see Notes), knit to one stitch before next marker, m1R (see Notes), k1, sm], includes two increases, a m1L and a m1r. You will be working this full repeat twice for a total of four increases.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I too am confused by this row! am to understand that you increase 3 sts 4 times? and doesn’t that make the 2 sides lop sided? I am confused.
Hi Emily-Ann,
Thanks for reaching out! You will be working these increases at the markers you should have placed through the work in the previous Set-Up Round. They should be evenly distributed so the increases are made on either side! If your markers are in the correct places the increases will not be lop sided!
I hope this clears things up!
Warmly,
Gianna
Great pattern! How would it be if I knitted it in cotton, or does it have to be wool do you think?
Hi Anne,
Thanks for writing in. You can absolutely knit this cardigan with a cotton yarn! It would definitely have a different texture from wool, and it would not be as warm, but it would make a really nice garment for the spring or the fall. Cotton Pure, in particular, would be fantastic since it’s sportweight. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi! I am confused by the two sets of brackets. I purchased this pattern a while ago and bought the recommend material ‘Good Wool’. Based on chest measurement, I am making size 40.5-43.5. I think that should be second from the last number within the first set of brackets. Is this correct? What is the purpose of the two sets of brackets? Thank you!
Hi Christina,
Thanks so much for your question! The two sets of parentheses are just a way of organizing the pattern instructions that correspond with each of the cardigan sizes! And yes, the chest circumference 40.5 to 43.5 inches corresponds with size 46.5, which is the second to last number in the first set of parentheses, so you’re on the right track! I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Thank you so much! I am really looking forward to this knit!