Wear Anywhere Tunic
The Wear Anywhere Tunic is true to its name: comfortable enough to wear lounging at the beach, stylish enough to sport on the sidewalks of New York City, and so surprisingly flattering that it’s even perfect for a dinner out. We tested our versatility theory with three versions in three different fabrics and two different necklines. Yup, it’s definitely the Wear Anywhere Tunic!
In Robert Kaufman’s Organic Voile, this Tunic is the ultimate pullover for the beach or pool. The sheer fabric is light and breezy, and the neon stitching shines like the sun itself. This version just begs to be worn with a big, floppy sunhat and a drink in hand, preferably something in a coconut!
In Robert Kaufman’s Chambray Union, the Wear Anywhere Tunic is just right for the city: comfortable, versatile and chic. For this version, added stitching at the bust and back provide shape and coverage, and for all three tunics, waist ties give a just-right-for-you fit.
Liberty of London’s Tana Lawn in the elegant Lodden print lends a dreamy touch. Delicate loops of flowering vines make me think of backyard gardens overflowing with summer’s abundance and stately country homes. I can’t wait to wear this dress amongst flowers and friends at a garden wedding later this month!
Made from just a handful of easy-to-cut rectangles and straight seams, the Wear Anywhere Tunic is as easy to sew as it is to wear. So, make one for your date tonight, your beach excursion this weekend and next week’s barbeque with friends… wherever your summer plans take you! -Corinne
Materials
Version A
Note: The pattern on this fabric runs parallel to the selvage. If using a one-directional fabric, the pattern will be upside-down on the back of the top.
- 1 3/4 (1 3/4, 1 3/4, 2, 2) yards of Liberty of London’s Tana Lawn Classics, Lodden Lavender
- A spool of Gutermann’s Cotton Thread, color 1040
- A 12mm Bias Tape Maker
- Merchant & Mills’ Bodkin and Threader or a safety pin
Version B
Note: The pattern on this fabric runs perpendicular to the selvage.
- 1 1/2 (1 1/2, 1 3/4, 2 3/4, 2 3/4) yards of Robert Kaufman’s Chambray Union, Slub Indigo
- A spool of Gutermann’s Cotton Thread, color 7410
- A 12mm Bias Tape Maker
- Merchant & Mills’ Bodkin and Threader or a safety pin
Version C
- 1 1/2 (1 1/2, 1 3/4, 2, 2) yards of Robert Kaufman’s Organic Voile, Optic White (Please Note: We no longer carry Organic Voile. To view our full in of fabric, click here!)
- A spool of Mettler’s Neon Thread, Sour Apple
- 3 yards of Purl Soho’s Neon Lacing, Yellow
- Merchant and Mills’ Bodkin and Threader or a safety pin
Sizes
To fit chest sizes 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-46) inches in circumference
Finished Measurements
Notes
Pattern
Cut
NOTE: When cutting simple rectangular shapes for patterns such as this, straight, clean cuts are key. The best way to make these cuts is with a rotary cutter and a non-slip quilting ruler on a self-healing cutting mat. If you have limited experience using a rotary cutter, I recommend visiting our Rotary Cutting Tutorial.
Cut two 11 by 27 (12 by 28, 13 by 29, 14 by 30, 15 by 31)-inch rectangles. These are the Top Pieces. If you are working with a directional fabric, make sure the pattern runs parallel to the side edges.
Cut two 22 ½ by 24 (24 ½ by 25, 26 ½ by 26, 28 ½ by 27, 30 ½ by 28)-inch rectangles. These are the Bottom Pieces (the first measurement is the Waist Edge, the second is the Side Edge). If you are working with a directional fabric, make sure the pattern runs parallel to the Side Edge of the rectangles.
For Versions A and B, cut two 1 1/8-inch wide strips from selvage to selvage. These are the Tie Pieces.
Use the charts below for help with the layout of the pieces on the fabric.
Version A
Version B
Version C
Use the chart for Version B for chest sizes 28-31, 32-35 and 36-39 inches. Use the chart for Version A for chest sizes 40-43 and 44-46 inches.
You will also cut the Neon Lacing into two 1 ½-yard pieces.
Tie an overhand knot at one end of each cord. At the other end, lightly singe the cut edge with the flame from a lighter or a match. This will seal the threads and prevent fraying while you work.
Prepare the Tunic Top
Fold the two long sides of the Top Pieces ¼ inch twice towards the wrong side and press.
Versions A and B
Stack the two Top Pieces on top of each other with their right sides facing each other. If you are working with a one-way directional fabric, make sure the top of the print is at the top of each rectangle.
Open up the fold on the top right side of both pieces and pin together for 5 ½ (5 ¾, 6, 6 ¼, 6 ½) inches. Sew along this pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance, using the innermost crease as a stitch guide.
This seam is the center of the Top Back
Now, open up the fold on the bottom right side of both pieces and pin together for 3 (3 ¼, 3 ½, 3 ¾, 4) inches. Sew along this pinned line in the same manner described above.
This seam is the center of the Top Front
This whole piece is now called the Top.
Refold the creased edges.
All Versions
Sew the hems down with an edgestitch.
Piece the Top and Bottom
Fold one Bottom Piece in half matching up its two Side Edges. Press the fold to create a crease. Unfold and lay it out flat with a Waist Edge on top and the right side facing up. If you are working with a one-way directional fabric, make sure the top of the print is at the top of the rectangle.
Version C
With right sides facing, line up one raw edge of one of the Top Pieces with the top Waist Edge of the Bottom Piece, matching up one hemmed edge of the Top with the center crease of the Bottom. Pin in place along the top.
Repeat with the second Top Piece on the other side of the crease, making sure the two hemmed edges of the Top Pieces are neatly side-by-side.
Version A and B
Pin the Top to a Bottom Piece in the same manner described above, this time matching up the center seam of the Top with the center crease of the Bottom Piece.
All Versions
Sew along the top pinned edge with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Fold the entire piece over at the seam so that the right wrongsides are now facing and press. Pin along the fold. Sew along the pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Press the seam allowance towards the Bottom Piece. Sew down with an edgestitch. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Repeat with the other raw edge of the Top(s) and the remaining Bottom Piece.
These seams create the Channels for the Ties or Lacing, and this whole piece is now called the Tunic.
Sew the Side Seams
With the wrong sides facing out, fold the Tunic in half so that the raw Side Edges and the raw bottom edges of the two Bottom Pieces meet, taking special care to match up the seam lines of the front and back Channels
Pin along the Side Edges of the Bottom Pieces. Place the pins about 1 1/2 inches from the raw edges so they will be out of the way when you later sew a 1 ¼-inch seam.
At one Side Edge, measure 6 inches up from the Tunic’s bottom edge and mark with a double pin. Repeat on the other Side Edge.
Starting at the Waist Edge, right next to the outer edge of the Top Piece, sew along the pinned edge with a 1 ¼-inch seam allowance being careful not to sew through the Channels. Backstitch at the beginning of the seam.
When you reach the spot marked with a double pin, end the seam with a backstitch. The unsewn space at the bottom of the Tunic will become the Side Slit.
Check your work: When you turn the Tunic right side out, the ends of the Channels should be open and accessible and they should abut at each side seam.
Repeat on the other side.
Make a cut into the seam allowance of one Side Edge: start at the raw edge directly across from the top of the Side Slit and cut diagonally up, ending ¼ inch to the side of the seam line.
Make a small, horizontal snip into the seam allowance at the end of the diagonal cut, making sure not to cut past the seam line. Trim the remaining seam allowance of the Side Edge to 1/4 inch. Repeat on the other side.
Sew along the trimmed ¼-inch seam allowances with a zigzag stitch. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seams.
Hem
Fold one bottom edge of the Tunic up ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press. Now fold the edge up 1 inch towards the wrong side, press and pin. Sew the hem down with an edgestitch.
Repeat with the other bottom edge.
Sew the Side Slit
Following the line of the side seam, press open the two flaps at one Side Slit so that their wrong sides face the wrong side of the Tunic.
Fold the raw edges of the two flaps under towards the wrong side so that the raw edges meet the creases. Press flat. Sew the folds down with an edgestitch.
Repeat on the other side.
Sew the Underarms
Lay the Tunic out with the right side facing out. Carefully line up the outer edges of the front and back Top Pieces. Starting from the top seam of the Channel and working up, pin together the front and back for 5 inches.
Using the line of stitching from the hem as a guide, sew along the pinned edge.
Repeat on the other side.
Prepare and Thread the Tie
Version A and B
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, use the 12 mm Bias Tape Maker to create single fold tape from one of the Tie pieces. Fold in half lengthwise, encasing the raw edges, and press.
Sew the long open side closed with an edgestitch.
Tie a small knot at one end.
Repeat with the second Tie piece.
All Versions
Thread the un-knotted end of the Lacing or Tie onto the bodkin (or safety pin). Push the bodkin into the Channel on one side of the garment. Pull the bodkin all the way through to the other side of the Channel.
Pull the Lacing or Ties so that there is an equal amount coming from both end of the Channel.
Tie a knot in the un-knotted end of the Lacing or Tie. If you are working with the Lacing, snip off the singed end.
Repeat on the other side of the garment with the second Channel and second Tie or length of Lacing.
Your Tunic is now ready to wear . . . anywhere!
I am obsessed with this pattern! It came together so nicely and looks fabulous on! This is my new go-to pattern for summer ! Thanks for sharing
I love this. Thank you so much for all these patterns. I am a beginner and your work makes my learning process so much easier and fun and stunning 🙂
Hi, I’m working on this pattern and there’s a mistake in the steps to create the channel. I’m sure it’s easy to work around as others have completed the pattern, but I can’t wrap my head around which way it should be.
The directions state the following:
Fold the entire piece over at the seam so that the RIGHT WRONGSIDES are now facing and press. Pin along the fold. Sew along the pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Is it the right or wrong sides facing? Or maybe I’ve sewn the Bottom to the Top backwards and that’s why I can’t get past this spot… Either way, it does say “right wrongsides”. Thx!
Hi Nicia,
Thanks for reaching out! I m happy to help! At this point, you will be putting the wrong sides together of the right side (as opposed to the left side) of the tunic!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hello. I’m new to sewing after 35 years in junior high school! I bought a 1940s machine that seems to get along with me well. I am wondering if I could use a heavily beaded material for this pattern. Value Village has some amazing Indian skirts that are extremely long, and SO heavy with beads…thoughts?
Thanks,
Cindy
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for reaching out, and what an interesting and lovely idea! When sewing with embellished or beaded fabric, you do have to remove the beads from any seam allowances since sewing over a bead will most likely break your needle. This should be fairly easy for the side, center, and shoulder seams, but may be tricky for the lacing channel since any areas without beads will be exposed; however, you could skip the lacing channel and tie or fasten a belt over the top of the tunic instead to secure it.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am a semi-beginner when it comes to using a sewing machine and following patterns… I have the most basic machine ever (a Pfaff Hobby purchased 15 years ago). I have the most beautiful rayon fabric that I’m trying to find a good use for — What are your thoughts on using the rayon on this pattern, especially given my experience level?
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for writing in! I think this tunic would be just lovely in a rayon, and a simple sew like this would be a great way to get to know a new fabric! The trickiest part of sewing with rayon is often how it tends to stretch out or lose its shape around curved openings, which this tunic doesn’t have. There are many guides to sewing with rayon available online that contain lots of useful tips, but I would also recommend practicing sewing through a few layers of scraps through your machine to see how it behaves – some machines (including mine!) don’t like rayon, so it may be necessary to adjust your tension settings or use a sharper needle.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Good Morning,
I just came across your this pattern and I wanted to know how many more inches do you need to add to the pattern to B to make for a person chest size 36 and waist 31 with hips 39. Ty
Hi Maria,
Thanks for being in touch with this question! This pattern comes with measurements based on chest sizes 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-46): it sounds like size 36-39 will suit you perfectly! All of the materials required and dimensions for this size are listed on the pattern page above.
I hope this was helpful!
Gaby
How wide is the fabric you use? 36”?
45”?
Hi Krista,
Thanks for reaching out! Depending on the version you plan on making, the fabric widths are between 51-57 inches.
All the best,
Gianna
Good day
I want to try this pattern want to just find out what if I’m bigger than the sizes recommended? How do I adjust the pattern in terms of inches?
Hi Jeannette,
Thanks for reaching out! Since this pattern is made up of basic rectangles, you can easily adjust the dimensions of each rectangle for your own measurements by extending each shape by however many inches necessary!
Please let us know if you have any more questions and how this turns out!
Gianna
HI! I’ve made one of these before years ago and love it, going to make another. I can’t recall which one I made though, and I’m having a problem figuring out what the difference is in the versions. Could you please explain what is different with each version? The only difference I see you mention is for the B version, “For this version, added stitching at the bust and back provide shape and coverage” but I can’t find any other info about the difference between versions. Thank you so much!!
Hi Sarah,
Thank you so much for writing in, and we are so excited to hear that you are planning on making a second Wear Anywhere Tunic! The only differences between the 3 versions are in the Neckline and the materials we used to make them. Version A and B both have a slightly higher neckline than version C, which is made by adding a little extra stitching to shorten the V of the neck!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi I’m working on this pattern right now, firstly I’m not new to sewing but I’m finding your instructions rather tricky, especially since it’s not clear which instructions are for which version. Secondly, I would like more fullness in the gathers since I’ll be using silk and want more drape. What do you recommend I increase by? Thanks.
Hi Edwina!
Thank you for your question! I’m sorry that this pattern has been difficult to navigate. The website version of this pattern identifies which instruction goes with which version, so perhaps using that in tandem with the printed pattern might clear this up! As for how much extra silk to use for more fullness in the gathered section, I suggest experimenting with the fabric you have to see how much more or less volume you get after pinning it in a few different arrangements. You could also line the silk with another fabric, to give the drapey silk something more structured for more fullness!
I hope this helps, but please feel free to reach out to us at customerservice@purlsoho.com if you have any more questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello. I love the look of this pattern, and want to use a lawn fabric in my stash to make a beach coverup. However, my chest size is proportionally much smaller than my hip. I’m a true pear shape. Will it be a problem attaching the smaller top to a larger bottom?
Hi Pat,
Thank you so much for your question! In this pattern, the two panels of the top should be equal to the width of the Tunic Bottom panels. You can absolutely adjust this pattern to have a narrower top, but it might be necessary to taper the Tunic Bottom panels so that they are the same width at the waist where the top and bottom are sewn together.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Carly