Wear Anywhere Tunic
The Wear Anywhere Tunic is true to its name: comfortable enough to wear lounging at the beach, stylish enough to sport on the sidewalks of New York City, and so surprisingly flattering that it’s even perfect for a dinner out. We tested our versatility theory with three versions in three different fabrics and two different necklines. Yup, it’s definitely the Wear Anywhere Tunic!
In Robert Kaufman’s Organic Voile, this Tunic is the ultimate pullover for the beach or pool. The sheer fabric is light and breezy, and the neon stitching shines like the sun itself. This version just begs to be worn with a big, floppy sunhat and a drink in hand, preferably something in a coconut!
In Robert Kaufman’s Chambray Union, the Wear Anywhere Tunic is just right for the city: comfortable, versatile and chic. For this version, added stitching at the bust and back provide shape and coverage, and for all three tunics, waist ties give a just-right-for-you fit.
Liberty of London’s Tana Lawn in the elegant Lodden print lends a dreamy touch. Delicate loops of flowering vines make me think of backyard gardens overflowing with summer’s abundance and stately country homes. I can’t wait to wear this dress amongst flowers and friends at a garden wedding later this month!
Made from just a handful of easy-to-cut rectangles and straight seams, the Wear Anywhere Tunic is as easy to sew as it is to wear. So, make one for your date tonight, your beach excursion this weekend and next week’s barbeque with friends… wherever your summer plans take you! -Corinne
Materials
Version A
Note: The pattern on this fabric runs parallel to the selvage. If using a one-directional fabric, the pattern will be upside-down on the back of the top.
- 1 3/4 (1 3/4, 1 3/4, 2, 2) yards of Liberty of London’s Tana Lawn Classics, Lodden Lavender
- A spool of Gutermann’s Cotton Thread, color 1040
- A 12mm Bias Tape Maker
- Merchant & Mills’ Bodkin and Threader or a safety pin
Version B
Note: The pattern on this fabric runs perpendicular to the selvage.
- 1 1/2 (1 1/2, 1 3/4, 2 3/4, 2 3/4) yards of Robert Kaufman’s Chambray Union, Slub Indigo
- A spool of Gutermann’s Cotton Thread, color 7410
- A 12mm Bias Tape Maker
- Merchant & Mills’ Bodkin and Threader or a safety pin
Version C
- 1 1/2 (1 1/2, 1 3/4, 2, 2) yards of Robert Kaufman’s Organic Voile, Optic White (Please Note: We no longer carry Organic Voile. To view our full in of fabric, click here!)
- A spool of Mettler’s Neon Thread, Sour Apple
- 3 yards of Purl Soho’s Neon Lacing, Yellow
- Merchant and Mills’ Bodkin and Threader or a safety pin
Sizes
To fit chest sizes 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-46) inches in circumference
Finished Measurements
Notes
Pattern
Cut
NOTE: When cutting simple rectangular shapes for patterns such as this, straight, clean cuts are key. The best way to make these cuts is with a rotary cutter and a non-slip quilting ruler on a self-healing cutting mat. If you have limited experience using a rotary cutter, I recommend visiting our Rotary Cutting Tutorial.
Cut two 11 by 27 (12 by 28, 13 by 29, 14 by 30, 15 by 31)-inch rectangles. These are the Top Pieces. If you are working with a directional fabric, make sure the pattern runs parallel to the side edges.
Cut two 22 ½ by 24 (24 ½ by 25, 26 ½ by 26, 28 ½ by 27, 30 ½ by 28)-inch rectangles. These are the Bottom Pieces (the first measurement is the Waist Edge, the second is the Side Edge). If you are working with a directional fabric, make sure the pattern runs parallel to the Side Edge of the rectangles.
For Versions A and B, cut two 1 1/8-inch wide strips from selvage to selvage. These are the Tie Pieces.
Use the charts below for help with the layout of the pieces on the fabric.
Version A
Version B
Version C
Use the chart for Version B for chest sizes 28-31, 32-35 and 36-39 inches. Use the chart for Version A for chest sizes 40-43 and 44-46 inches.
You will also cut the Neon Lacing into two 1 ½-yard pieces.
Tie an overhand knot at one end of each cord. At the other end, lightly singe the cut edge with the flame from a lighter or a match. This will seal the threads and prevent fraying while you work.
Prepare the Tunic Top
Fold the two long sides of the Top Pieces ¼ inch twice towards the wrong side and press.
Versions A and B
Stack the two Top Pieces on top of each other with their right sides facing each other. If you are working with a one-way directional fabric, make sure the top of the print is at the top of each rectangle.
Open up the fold on the top right side of both pieces and pin together for 5 ½ (5 ¾, 6, 6 ¼, 6 ½) inches. Sew along this pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance, using the innermost crease as a stitch guide.
This seam is the center of the Top Back
Now, open up the fold on the bottom right side of both pieces and pin together for 3 (3 ¼, 3 ½, 3 ¾, 4) inches. Sew along this pinned line in the same manner described above.
This seam is the center of the Top Front
This whole piece is now called the Top.
Refold the creased edges.
All Versions
Sew the hems down with an edgestitch.
Piece the Top and Bottom
Fold one Bottom Piece in half matching up its two Side Edges. Press the fold to create a crease. Unfold and lay it out flat with a Waist Edge on top and the right side facing up. If you are working with a one-way directional fabric, make sure the top of the print is at the top of the rectangle.
Version C
With right sides facing, line up one raw edge of one of the Top Pieces with the top Waist Edge of the Bottom Piece, matching up one hemmed edge of the Top with the center crease of the Bottom. Pin in place along the top.
Repeat with the second Top Piece on the other side of the crease, making sure the two hemmed edges of the Top Pieces are neatly side-by-side.
Version A and B
Pin the Top to a Bottom Piece in the same manner described above, this time matching up the center seam of the Top with the center crease of the Bottom Piece.
All Versions
Sew along the top pinned edge with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Fold the entire piece over at the seam so that the right wrongsides are now facing and press. Pin along the fold. Sew along the pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Press the seam allowance towards the Bottom Piece. Sew down with an edgestitch. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Repeat with the other raw edge of the Top(s) and the remaining Bottom Piece.
These seams create the Channels for the Ties or Lacing, and this whole piece is now called the Tunic.
Sew the Side Seams
With the wrong sides facing out, fold the Tunic in half so that the raw Side Edges and the raw bottom edges of the two Bottom Pieces meet, taking special care to match up the seam lines of the front and back Channels
Pin along the Side Edges of the Bottom Pieces. Place the pins about 1 1/2 inches from the raw edges so they will be out of the way when you later sew a 1 ¼-inch seam.
At one Side Edge, measure 6 inches up from the Tunic’s bottom edge and mark with a double pin. Repeat on the other Side Edge.
Starting at the Waist Edge, right next to the outer edge of the Top Piece, sew along the pinned edge with a 1 ¼-inch seam allowance being careful not to sew through the Channels. Backstitch at the beginning of the seam.
When you reach the spot marked with a double pin, end the seam with a backstitch. The unsewn space at the bottom of the Tunic will become the Side Slit.
Check your work: When you turn the Tunic right side out, the ends of the Channels should be open and accessible and they should abut at each side seam.
Repeat on the other side.
Make a cut into the seam allowance of one Side Edge: start at the raw edge directly across from the top of the Side Slit and cut diagonally up, ending ¼ inch to the side of the seam line.
Make a small, horizontal snip into the seam allowance at the end of the diagonal cut, making sure not to cut past the seam line. Trim the remaining seam allowance of the Side Edge to 1/4 inch. Repeat on the other side.
Sew along the trimmed ¼-inch seam allowances with a zigzag stitch. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seams.
Hem
Fold one bottom edge of the Tunic up ¼ inch towards the wrong side and press. Now fold the edge up 1 inch towards the wrong side, press and pin. Sew the hem down with an edgestitch.
Repeat with the other bottom edge.
Sew the Side Slit
Following the line of the side seam, press open the two flaps at one Side Slit so that their wrong sides face the wrong side of the Tunic.
Fold the raw edges of the two flaps under towards the wrong side so that the raw edges meet the creases. Press flat. Sew the folds down with an edgestitch.
Repeat on the other side.
Sew the Underarms
Lay the Tunic out with the right side facing out. Carefully line up the outer edges of the front and back Top Pieces. Starting from the top seam of the Channel and working up, pin together the front and back for 5 inches.
Using the line of stitching from the hem as a guide, sew along the pinned edge.
Repeat on the other side.
Prepare and Thread the Tie
Version A and B
Following the manufacturer’s instructions, use the 12 mm Bias Tape Maker to create single fold tape from one of the Tie pieces. Fold in half lengthwise, encasing the raw edges, and press.
Sew the long open side closed with an edgestitch.
Tie a small knot at one end.
Repeat with the second Tie piece.
All Versions
Thread the un-knotted end of the Lacing or Tie onto the bodkin (or safety pin). Push the bodkin into the Channel on one side of the garment. Pull the bodkin all the way through to the other side of the Channel.
Pull the Lacing or Ties so that there is an equal amount coming from both end of the Channel.
Tie a knot in the un-knotted end of the Lacing or Tie. If you are working with the Lacing, snip off the singed end.
Repeat on the other side of the garment with the second Channel and second Tie or length of Lacing.
Your Tunic is now ready to wear . . . anywhere!
Update 2024: You can explore our current collection of beautiful fabrics and supplies on our page of Sewing Tools + Notions!
Such a lot of work went into these instructions, but it's impossible to know how this would look on a human instead of a hanger.
I tried it on at the store, it’s super cute. I wear a 2-4 and the small fit great.
I'm intrigued by this clothing item, but i'd love a photo or two of one on a real person to get a sense for how it looks on someone and whether I'd like it on me. Thanks for all the work put into these tutorials.
me too!!!!!
Thanks for the great tutorial, these looks great! I love the second one, I could wear it to the office 🙂
Thanks for the tutorial. This tunic is adorable! I would love to see it modeled on a person – can you post pics? Thank you!!!!
Agreed! Please show photos of the tunic on a person!
Agreed! This is true for almost all the clothing tutorials posted here – they look great, but I have no idea how they look on a human!
To everyone asking for a photo on a person-
We hear you! We will take a photo of someone wearing it at the beginning of next week and post it to Instagram and Facebook (and update the post with a link to the photo.)
Thanks everyone for getting in touch with this concern!
Best-
Molly
Can you clarify the difference between versions A and B? It looks like they have the same neckline, so I can't quite see the difference apart from the fabric, and the fact the patterns run two different directions for the ones you happened to use. Somehow with the boxy T pattern/instructions, it was a little easier to see the difference between the three versions. Excited to try this!
Yes, please provide a photo with model. Looks lovely.
I like the look of this and was just getting started on it, but the measurements aren't adding up for me. Should the bottom pieces be 11 x 27, cut on the fold (so, two rectangles 22×27)? As is, they don't seem nearly big enough given the dimensions of the finished tunic. Not sure if I misread something, thanks!
Do you have the dimensions for the Top piece mixed up with the Skirt piece? The top piece seems much too wide.
I may be mistaken, but within the post it says that the 11 x 27 inch pieces are the bottom pieces and those that are 22.5 x 24 are the top pieces — is this correct? It seems as though it should be the other way around. I'm actually in the process of cutting my pieces right now, and am going to assume its the inverse!
OK, in looking through this more carefully this weekend, I think a few parts of the cutting instructions need correction/clarification. First, the Top and Bottom labels have clearly been reversed, as the skirt pieces are the square ones.
Secondly, I think the instructions for directional prints need fixing — and the waist vs. side in general I'm still confused about. I've been looking at the medium (?) size — third in the series, second in parens. With the 1 1/4" seam allowance for the skirts, and the 1/2" seam allowance used on the top pieces, I get how 26 1/2" cut width becomes 24" after sewing — and matches the 12+12 you have in the sewn top. However, **for that size, the skirt pieces are slightly wider than they are long, unlike the two smallest sizes.** If I were using a directional fabric and followed the current instructions, I'd actually end up with the pattern for the skirt perpendicular to the pattern on the top.
In looking at all your sizes more carefully, I *think* you've given the width number first for all the skirt pieces, followed by the length number. The problem is that small sizes are longer than wide (which results in correct positioning for directional prints), while most of the larger sizes are wider than long. Is there any way you could create a layout diagram for directional prints, that includes the proportion? Something like that might clear it up.
Lastly, I don't quite see how the finished length for what I'm calling a medium will have a finished skirt length of 24". This is a minor point, but if I've done the math right — and correctly identified which edge is which — I think it would end up 23 1/2" long. I'm guessing the difference comes from how the channel for the tie is created, but from the pictures, it looks like the channel is a 1/2" wide (using 1" of the skirt's cut length), but then has 1/4" folded under, so actually 1 1/4" gets used for the waist seam allowance on the skirt piece.
All that said, thank you so much for posting this! I'm stoked to start sewing it. I think I'll be able to remake a strange quasi-mumu batique garment I found in my grandmother's giveaway pile into this. 🙂
The cutout pieces seem to be mislabeled. Two 11×27 are the bottom pieces and the 22.5 x 24 are the top?
Are the 'top pieces' and 'bottom pieces' references correct?
Cut two 11 by 27 (12 by 28, 13 by 29, 14 by 30, 15 by 31)-inch rectangles. These are the Bottom Pieces (the first measurement is the Waist Edge, the second is the Side Edge). If you are working with a directional fabric, make sure the pattern runs parallel to the side edges.
Cut two 22 by 24 (24 by 25, 26 by 26, 28 by 27, 30 by 28)-inch rectangles. These are the Top Pieces. If you are working with a directional fabric, make sure the pattern runs parallel to the long side of the rectangles.
I Love this Pattern! Thank~You so much for the detailed Tutorial~ I am going to make a couple of these, because I have paid a lot for them when I was able to find them. These dresses/tunics are simple but sleek. If I have a question while making one I will surely ask~
Thanks Again!!
Huggs, Nancy
Please note: I suspect the pieces you specify to cut out are mis-labeled: the bottom two pieces together should have a waist edge that totals more than 22 to 30".
I agree with just about everyone who posted. Why didn't you show it on a human being?
It would be wonderful to see one or all there tunics modeled ! It would give a great visual to us !
Thank you for even considering
Can you check the measurements on the pattern pieces? From what I can tell, I think the Top and Bottom measurements are flip-flopped.
Perhaps it's late, or perhaps it's pregnancy brain, but is it possible that the cutting instructions are switched for which are the top pieces and which are the bottom?
I'd like to make this as a maxi. How much more fabric do I need?
Hello all asking about the Top and Bottom Pieces –
Thank you so much for writing in! Yes, you all are correct, the measurements for the Top and Bottom pieces were mislabeled. I am sorry for the oversight! The pattern has now been corrected, and hopefully any confusion in this section has been cleared up!
Thank you for all of your careful reading!
-Corinne
Hi danzfool –
Thank you for all your careful reading of the project!
You were correct, the top and bottom pieces were mislabeled. I have corrected that portion of the pattern.
Also, I can see your confusion with the instructions for directional fabrics for the Bottom piece. I have changed the wording of that section too. For a directional print, you want to make sure that the print runs parallel with the Side Edge of the Bottom piece (not the long edge).
As for your earlier question about the different versions, you are correct that Version A and Version B are constructed in the same fashion. The only difference between these two is the direction of the print on the fabric, and therefore a difference in the yardages needed.
I hope this clears up any confusion!
-Corinne
Hello Kathleen –
To make this a maxi, additional yardage will depend on the type of fabric you are using. If you are using a fabric similar to the one used in Version B (with a print that runs perpendicular to the selvage) no additional yardage should be needed.
If you are using the yardage charts for either Version A or Version C, think of how much length you would like to add to the Bottom piece and double it. This is the additional length of fabric you will need to get. For example, if you would like the skirt to measure 20 inches longer than proposed in the pattern, you would need 40 additional inches of fabric, or an additional 1 1/4 yard.
Please also note that the fabrics used for all three versions are each at least 53 inches wide.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
Hello,
This tunic can so easily be converted to a floor length dress/caftans.
What a simple, beautiful and elegant garment. I'm sure it will look fantastic on multiple figure type's.
Thanks for the inspiration!
Are the cut pieces for the top and bottom labelled correctly, ie. should what you have listed above as top pieces (under cut pieces) really be the bottom pieces and VV? My pieces aren't lining up like in the photos.
thanks
Best photo pattern I have ever seen. So thorough, thanks,
Hello Jill –
Thank you for writing in. Yes, the original pattern accidentally had the Top and the Bottom measurements swapped. The pattern has been fixed and the directions for the Cut section should all be accurate now. I am so sorry for the mix-up!
-Corinne
Cutting layout? I am an inexperienced seamstress, but I think I could make this. However I just can't envision how to cut it out. I am making the 40-43" size.
For anyone who would like to see this being modeled on a person-
We have a shot of it being modeled on our Facebook page here:
https://www.facebook.com/58035888021/photos/a.141980823021.113308.58035888021/10152379815528022/?type=1&theater
Thanks!
Molly
Wow, these look fantastic, and easy to make as well!
Do you have any suggestions how to make these maternity-fit as well?
I was thinking about inserting an elastic at the waist instead (or on top?) of the ribbons, and have the front piece slightly longer to cover up the belly and align with the back seam. What do you think?
Because, airy and elegant is right what i need!
Hi Viviane –
All of your suggestions for turning this into a maternity garment sound great! This would make a lovely (and very comfortable!) maternity dress.
Depending how far along you are, and how much extra room you need in the body, you could also consider cutting the front of the Tunic Bottom slightly wider. Then, when sewing the Bottom front to the Top pieces, add some gathers at the center Waist Edge so that the Side Edges of the two sections match up. This would give a little more room for a growing belly in the skirt front.
I hope this helps – and congratulations!
-Corinne
My friends and I worked on this pattern for many hours, we thought it would be easy, ha ha ha. we could not figure out how to put together the tie with the casing. I through the finished project away, so disappointing.
Hi Carole –
I am sorry you had such a hard time with the Tunic pattern. We strive to make all of our patterns as clear and easy to follow as possible.
If you ever have trouble again with any of our patterns please feel free to contact us here in the comments section or to email our comment moderator directly (Molly AT purls oho DOT com) and we will be happy to help!
Thanks!
-Corinne
Perfect pattern. Just finished making mine and I’m so impressed by how simply elegant it is. As always, thanks so much for all the beautiful work you all do!
I love this pattern, and came back to it looking for the link to the photos you were going to add to this post of it on an actual person, but still don’t see them. Am I missing something?
Hi Erin-
You can see a photo of it being worn here: http://instagram.com/p/qzEOC_jhdN/?modal=true
Thank you!
Molly
I would like to see a picture of this tunic on a person. You said you would provide it but I haven’t seen it. Thank you!!
Hi Marguerite-
You can see a photo of this being worn here: http://instagram.com/p/qzEOC_jhdN/?modal=true
Thank you!
Molly
Made one today using the Kaufman chambray union. Interesting construction and finishing and goes together quickly and easily with nice finishes. Thanks for a great pattern.
It took longer than I wanted, but for those who want to see pictures, here’s how my first version turned out: https://www.flickr.com/photos/danzfool/15542743041/in/photostream/ With a fabric that drapes really well, it was actually dressy enough that I wore it to the office today. (As a styling note, I did pull the side seams off center a little to gather more of the fabric to the back. I then tied all the cords in a bow at the back. I think it’s a more flattering fit that way, though I’m thinking how I could modify the pattern next time, to preserve the side-seam lines.)
wow! the “muumuu into a dress” photo is wonderful! i am heading over to “gabes” to get a muumuu for $7.99 to transform into a better looking tunic! great idea and thrifty way to attempt this tutorial without wasting a lot of $ on fabric!
Dear Purl Bee, it looks ideal, thank you. My doubt, and a very silly one, is … is the measurement for the chest using your across bust measurement or your under bust measurement? For example, I take a 36b bra size, meaning under bust is 36 but across bust is 40.5. Which measurement should I use? It looks to be fairly loose and forgiving cut, just checking. Thanks in advance.
Hi Katy –
This is not a silly question at all! The bust measurement is meant to be taken around the fullest part of your bust. So, in your case, you would want to go with the 40 1/2-inch measurement.
All that being said, you are correct that the cut is pretty forgiving and loose. Before you make a final choice on sizing, I suggest taking a look at the finished measurements of the garment in the different sizes to see which one works best for you.
Please let us know if you have any other questions as you’re putting this together!
-Corinne
I’m wondering if there would be a way to make this with long sleeves, has anyone tried it?
Hi De Moore –
I have not tried to make this with sleeves, but it could be lovely! If you do try it, please let us know how it goes!
Thank you for writing in!
-Corinne
I’m making this for my Mom and myself and so far so good. I will let you know how the finished garment turn out. Thanks
what’s the orange fabric?
Hi Emily-
The orange example fabric is Robert Kaufman’s Botanics + Architextures in Tangerine Hatches. You can see it here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9364-Robert-Kaufman-Botanics-Architextures
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Has anyone else tried to make this? I made it and it is HUGE. The top fell off of me and I am not a super small person. I wear a size 8-10. The 15″ top pieces are too big. I think if it was “7 maybe it would work better? So, sad, I really wanted to wear it.
Hi Luc y –
I’m sorry you were unhappy with the fit of the garment!
With a 15-inch top piece, it sounds like you made the size for the 44-46-inch chest circumference, which is closer to a size 14. However, it’s true that this tunic is designed to have a roomy fit in any size. The shoulders of the top are meant to slope down the arm, and the wide waist is designed to be cinched and gathered.
Please let me know if you have any other questions about sizing, or anything else, we’re happy to help!
-Corinne
Have you taken a picture of someone wearing this garment yet? I see the question has been asked earlier and you indicated it would be updated with a link, but I don’t see one. Would love to see how this is worn before I decide to make one. Definitely a cute pattern and I think my daughters would love it.
Hi Kathleen –
Thank you for pointing this out! We did post a picture of Molly wearing the Tunic many months ago on Instagram, but forgot to add the link here!
You can find the picture on our Instagram account, @purlsoho , or follow this link, and scroll down:
https://instagram.com/purlsoho/
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
I know my comment does not go in this section, but this is my first time on this site, and I don’t know how to find the right section. My comment is “If you make a swimsuit, make sure you buy waterproof elastic. My grandmother did not do this when I was in junior high. She made me my first two-piece swimsuit and the bottom fell off as soon as I got in the water. For those of you who will make a swimsuit – Good Luck.
Just made the wear anywhere tunic and love it. Goes together easily. I used a viscose black and white fabric and added a black lace trim to the hem and armholes. Very happy with the result. Thank you for the pattern. I will be making another for our hot summer days.
Totally a late comment, but: if you make the top rectangles a bit shorter (so that it’s more of an empire waist) and add a few inches onto the front panel, and also make it maxi length, this is a FANTASTIC summer maternity dress. In black linen, no less.
Thanks for the pattern!
Muchas gracias, está perfectamente explicado
Hello Purl Soho!
I have the same Liberty fabric as pictured in the pattern, and I’m just about to cut out the pieces. My fabric is not perfectly square from where it was cut. Can I use the selvage edge as part of the garment, since the bottom side edge would be incorporated into the seam? I’m I correct in understanding that the fabric is laid out flat to cut according to Version A?
Many thanks!
Elizabeth
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for writing in! You can certainly include the selvedge if it does not bother you! And you are correct that the fabric is laid out flat rather than folded to cut this pattern!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I have a delicate voile that I’d like to use for this but the fabric is a bit sheer. I have enough to make a lining (for the skirt portions) in the same fabric. Do you have any guidance for how to add a lining? I’m especially wondering how it would affect the side slits and the channel for the waist ties. Thank you!
Hi Sonali,
Thank you for writing in to us! Unfortunately lining a garment requires editing patterns, which is something I can’t really tell you how to do over the comments section. However, I can lead you in the right direction. First of all, what you are describing is called “framing” and not “lining”. This requires you to set the lining in to the seams of the exterior shell. This takes pattern making knowledge and can be quite difficult if you’ve never done it before. The easiest way to line this garment is to make two pieces — one as in the pattern and one that omits the waist channel. Do not sew the armholes or neckline on either because you’ll sew your body and lining neckline and armholes together to attach the lining. To secure everything and make sure the lining doesn’t pop out, you can do what’s called an understitch or simply edge stitch the seams where the lining meets the body. I hope this helps!
-Adam
I am obsessed with this pattern! It came together so nicely and looks fabulous on! This is my new go-to pattern for summer ! Thanks for sharing
I love this. Thank you so much for all these patterns. I am a beginner and your work makes my learning process so much easier and fun and stunning 🙂
Hi, I’m working on this pattern and there’s a mistake in the steps to create the channel. I’m sure it’s easy to work around as others have completed the pattern, but I can’t wrap my head around which way it should be.
The directions state the following:
Fold the entire piece over at the seam so that the RIGHT WRONGSIDES are now facing and press. Pin along the fold. Sew along the pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Is it the right or wrong sides facing? Or maybe I’ve sewn the Bottom to the Top backwards and that’s why I can’t get past this spot… Either way, it does say “right wrongsides”. Thx!
Hi Nicia,
Thanks for reaching out! I m happy to help! At this point, you will be putting the wrong sides together of the right side (as opposed to the left side) of the tunic!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hello. I’m new to sewing after 35 years in junior high school! I bought a 1940s machine that seems to get along with me well. I am wondering if I could use a heavily beaded material for this pattern. Value Village has some amazing Indian skirts that are extremely long, and SO heavy with beads…thoughts?
Thanks,
Cindy
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for reaching out, and what an interesting and lovely idea! When sewing with embellished or beaded fabric, you do have to remove the beads from any seam allowances since sewing over a bead will most likely break your needle. This should be fairly easy for the side, center, and shoulder seams, but may be tricky for the lacing channel since any areas without beads will be exposed; however, you could skip the lacing channel and tie or fasten a belt over the top of the tunic instead to secure it.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
I am a semi-beginner when it comes to using a sewing machine and following patterns… I have the most basic machine ever (a Pfaff Hobby purchased 15 years ago). I have the most beautiful rayon fabric that I’m trying to find a good use for — What are your thoughts on using the rayon on this pattern, especially given my experience level?
Hi Andrea,
Thanks for writing in! I think this tunic would be just lovely in a rayon, and a simple sew like this would be a great way to get to know a new fabric! The trickiest part of sewing with rayon is often how it tends to stretch out or lose its shape around curved openings, which this tunic doesn’t have. There are many guides to sewing with rayon available online that contain lots of useful tips, but I would also recommend practicing sewing through a few layers of scraps through your machine to see how it behaves – some machines (including mine!) don’t like rayon, so it may be necessary to adjust your tension settings or use a sharper needle.
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
Good Morning,
I just came across your this pattern and I wanted to know how many more inches do you need to add to the pattern to B to make for a person chest size 36 and waist 31 with hips 39. Ty
Hi Maria,
Thanks for being in touch with this question! This pattern comes with measurements based on chest sizes 28-31 (32-35, 36-39, 40-43, 44-46): it sounds like size 36-39 will suit you perfectly! All of the materials required and dimensions for this size are listed on the pattern page above.
I hope this was helpful!
Gaby
How wide is the fabric you use? 36”?
45”?
Hi Krista,
Thanks for reaching out! Depending on the version you plan on making, the fabric widths are between 51-57 inches.
All the best,
Gianna
Good day
I want to try this pattern want to just find out what if I’m bigger than the sizes recommended? How do I adjust the pattern in terms of inches?
Hi Jeannette,
Thanks for reaching out! Since this pattern is made up of basic rectangles, you can easily adjust the dimensions of each rectangle for your own measurements by extending each shape by however many inches necessary!
Please let us know if you have any more questions and how this turns out!
Gianna
HI! I’ve made one of these before years ago and love it, going to make another. I can’t recall which one I made though, and I’m having a problem figuring out what the difference is in the versions. Could you please explain what is different with each version? The only difference I see you mention is for the B version, “For this version, added stitching at the bust and back provide shape and coverage” but I can’t find any other info about the difference between versions. Thank you so much!!
Hi Sarah,
Thank you so much for writing in, and we are so excited to hear that you are planning on making a second Wear Anywhere Tunic! The only differences between the 3 versions are in the Neckline and the materials we used to make them. Version A and B both have a slightly higher neckline than version C, which is made by adding a little extra stitching to shorten the V of the neck!
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hi I’m working on this pattern right now, firstly I’m not new to sewing but I’m finding your instructions rather tricky, especially since it’s not clear which instructions are for which version. Secondly, I would like more fullness in the gathers since I’ll be using silk and want more drape. What do you recommend I increase by? Thanks.
Hi Edwina!
Thank you for your question! I’m sorry that this pattern has been difficult to navigate. The website version of this pattern identifies which instruction goes with which version, so perhaps using that in tandem with the printed pattern might clear this up! As for how much extra silk to use for more fullness in the gathered section, I suggest experimenting with the fabric you have to see how much more or less volume you get after pinning it in a few different arrangements. You could also line the silk with another fabric, to give the drapey silk something more structured for more fullness!
I hope this helps, but please feel free to reach out to us at [email protected] if you have any more questions!
All the best,
Margaret
Hello. I love the look of this pattern, and want to use a lawn fabric in my stash to make a beach coverup. However, my chest size is proportionally much smaller than my hip. I’m a true pear shape. Will it be a problem attaching the smaller top to a larger bottom?
Hi Pat,
Thank you so much for your question! In this pattern, the two panels of the top should be equal to the width of the Tunic Bottom panels. You can absolutely adjust this pattern to have a narrower top, but it might be necessary to taper the Tunic Bottom panels so that they are the same width at the waist where the top and bottom are sewn together.
I hope this helps, and please let us know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Carly
Hello,
I can’t find the pattern download for any of the free pattern’s.
Hi Joy,
Thanks for writing in! If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the “Save To Favorites” button. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop-down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%. You can also hover your mouse over any portions of the pattern you wish to delete, and click the trash can icon that appears. Then, you can click “Print” or “PDF” along the top left of the pattern preview box to print or save the pattern!
Happy making,
Gavriella