Tunisian Crochet Scarf
As a young child visiting my cousins in Vienna, I remember a group of elderly women who gathered daily in a nearby park to crochet under a stand of giant linden trees. They were a tremendously productive group, with projects that seemed to materialize in record speed, though my curiosity focused primarily on one woman who used an especially long, wooden hook. Summoning me over one afternoon, she introduced me to the beautiful art of Tunisian crochet.
With the regular back and forth motion of a typewriter’s carriage, this surprisingly easy technique works up quickly and densely, perfect for warm and cozy scarves. In Gobelin Stitch, the nubbly reverse side is just as appealing as the smooth front, and in Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure, the drape is dramatic and the feel, wonderfully soft.
As crisp fall air descends upon us, find a few hours to steal away to a sunny park bench nestled in a grove of trees, and there, create this beautiful Tunisian Crochet Scarf in no time flat! -Kristy
Materials
- 7 skeins of Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure, 100% super baby alpaca; approximately 763 yards required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- A size J (6 mm) Afghan crochet hook
Shop our wonderful collection of worsted/aran-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
Gauge
14 stitches = 4 inches in Tunisian Crochet Gobelin Stitch
Size
12 inches wide x 70 inches long
Pattern
Begin
NOTE: If you’re unfamiliar with the techniques of Tunisian Crochet, please check out our Tunisian Crochet Basics Tutorial.
Foundation Row: Chain 42.
Starting with the second chain from the hook, work a Preparation Row.
Work one Return Row.
Work Gobelin Stitch
Forward Row 1: Insert hook through space number 1 (between the vertical strands), yarn over (yo), pull loop through onto hook.
*Insert hook in next space, yo, pull loop through onto hook, repeat from * to last space.
Skip the last space.
Insert the hook into the chain stitch at the edge and pull loop through onto hook. [42 stitches]
Note: Remember that when you start the next row, you don’t turn the work; you just keep the same side facing you.
Return Row 1: Chain 1, *yo, pull loop through next 2 stitches on hook, repeat from * to end of row, ending with one loop on hook.
Forward Row 2: Insert hook into space number 2, yo, pull loop through onto hook, *insert hook in next space, yo, pull loop through onto hook, repeat from * to end of row, including the last space.
Insert the hook into the chain stitch at the edge and pull loop through onto hook.
Return Row 2: Repeat Return Row 1.
Repeat these 4 Rows until piece measures 70 inches, ending with Return Row 2.
Finish
On Forward Row 1, insert hook into space number 1, *pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next space and repeat from * to end of row, ending with one loop on hook.”
Cut yarn and pull through remaining loop.
With the right side facing you, join yarn and make a single crochet into each stitch along the bind-off edge. Cut yarn and pull through remaining loop.
Repeat for the cast-on edge.
Weave in all ends and block as desired.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our crochet patterns and crochet tutorials, buy one of our many kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next crochet or knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I love Tunisian Crochet and here’s a great smaller project! Could you please recommend a good substitute yarn since I am allergic to alpaca. Thanks so much
Hi Claudia!
I’m sorry that you’re allergic to alpaca! A nice substitute that comes to mind that you could try would be our Worsted Twist in Heirloom White, which is quite lovely. You may have to work up a quick swatch just to check and see how many stitches per inch you’re getting, but you shouldn’t be too far off and it would be easy to adjust. Best of luck!
Kristy
Thanks for this answer! I, too, am allergic to wool – but living in Florida, it’s generally not a problem ; )
j’aime tous vos patrons ils sont tous beaux
Thank you for the free patterns .Tonight I learnt Tunisian chrochet .Instruction s on this pattern site are very clear.
I shall enjoy trying this new technique on my next project.
I would also like to try work on alpaca wool in the future .
Many thanks.
Hi Sylvia! That’s wonderful! We’re so glad the instructions helped and that you learned Tunisian crochet tonight! Thanks for writing and happy crocheting!
Kristy
As an obsessive Tunisian crocheter, I really appreciate that such a cool website is showing off this great craft. Cheers!
Hi Lexicom! So great to hear and glad you found us! Happy crocheting!
Kristy
Could this be done as an infinity scarf? And how would the pattern differ? Or would you just sew the ends together? It’s lovely, can’t wait to try it.
Thank you for all the beautiful patterns.
Hi Sue! It sure could! And it would be easiest (I think) to seam the ends of the scarf together when you’re done (instead of working the finishing rows of single crochet on the edges). I hope this helps and send good luck!
Kristy
Thanks so much for sharing free patterns for such pretty projects! I look forward to knitting, crocheting and weaving several of them in the upcoming winter months!
Theresa
Hi Theresa, thanks for writing in! We’re so glad that you like the projects! Happy knitting and crocheting!
Kristy
Great pattern! I haven’t done Tunisian crochet is a very long time and would l love to do this project
Could you suggest a substitute yarn that is not a wool or alpaca-I am allergic to any animal fibre.
Thanks!
Hi Carol,
One of the great things about this stitch and technique is that it looks really nice with a variety of yarns. A non-wool/alpaca yarn that might work well with this pattern would be Blue Sky’s Worsted Cotton in Bone (https://www.purlsoho.com/yarn/knitting-crochet/worsted-cotton.html). It would be the proper weight and would work up soft and cozy. I hope this helps! Thanks for writing and best of luck!
Kristy
I have tries Tunisian in the past, all my projects roll ugh. I was told to try a hook two sizes up is that possible? Would love to try this pattern. Thanks
Hi Kimberly!
Tunisian crochet does have a tendency to curl and the trick you mention, to go up a hook size can definitely help! I found wet-blocking the the Alpaca Pure for this project to be very helpful. The lovely weight of the yarn allowed the edges to relax and dry perfectly flat. In my experiences, wet-blocking or steaming your project usually does the trick. If you find you still have a lot of curling, you could consider adding a few more rows of single crochet at the edges. Good luck and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Ooooo what a great idea! I would love to try it, but….in a blanket size. Is this crazy? Please stop me before I start something I shouldn’t.
Hi Tiffany! Not crazy at all! It’s a great idea! You would simply need to get a hook that had an extension on it to get the width you’d need. Alternatively, you could also use a shorter hook and make strips & sew them together. The fabric of this particular stitch is dense and perfectly suited for a blanket, and the stitch works up far more quickly than one might think! I send good luck! Kristy
i chain 26, Tunisian 52 rows fold in half and
Single crochet together, using cotton yarn
It makes wonderful hot pads. I am anxious
To venture out and try this scard
Hi Sharon,
That’s so great! It’s a wonderful stitch for hot pads for sure! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
I have never crocheted in my life, however “because I knit” I have inherited a full set of hooks. How hard would it be for me to make this scarf? Do I need to try something easier first?
Hi Katrina,
I would encourage you to look through our Tunisian Crochet Basics tutorial (https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/04/13/tunisian-crochet-basics/) and go through the steps with some waste yarn. As a knitter, I bet you won’t find the technique hard at all! And after you learn the basics, you’ll see that the scarf pattern is also pretty straight forward and uncomplicated. Please let us know as you go through and learn if you have any questions at all — sending you the best of luck!
Kristy
Cool! I’ve been working on tunisian stitches and this good! Thank you!
Thanks, Lori!
Thank you for this crochet scarf pattern! I am so excited 🙂 I am a novice crocheter and haven’t learned to knit .. yet. Usually when I look at your patters they are for knitting. When I saw this scarf I thought waaa I wish they would have a pattern in crochet! Low and behold this IS a crochet pattern and it looks fairly easy! Yea 🙂 Thank you for the instructions in picture as well as print, that should be very helpful.
That’s really great to hear, Nancy, thank you! And yes! If you’re already a pro at crochet, this pattern should be a breeze! Please let us know if you have any questions as you go through the pattern! Happy crocheting!
Kristy
The scarf is on top of my list. It will be my first attempt in Tunisian Crochet. Thank you for the pattern.
Hi Ruth!
It’s very exciting that this will be your first attempt! I hope you find the technique as fun to work and as easy as we do! Please let us know if you get stuck in any way at all! Good luck and thanks for writing!
Kristy
I’ve been intrigued by Tunisia crochet and love love love this goblin stitch. I’ve done a few rows and it’s easier than I thought! Thanks for the pattern and clear directions!
Hi Jill!
It’s wonderful to hear that you’ve been finding it easy! Like you, I also fell in love with the stitch! I’m so glad you’re enjoying it!
Kristy
merci pour vos modèles magnifiques et vos explications si claires !
hi, this would be my first tunisian crochet project though have done a little crocheting and knitting too……….the instructions are quite clear and i am excited to try this out. thanks so much
Hi Rita!
It’s exciting to hear that you’ll be trying the technique and I’m sure you’ll be off and running with it in no time! Thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Truly refreshing…..Tunisian crochet! Gorgeous scarf 🙂
Thanks so much, Kim!
I absolutely love this stitch but I cannot crochet to save my life. Does this stitch exist in a knit version? I can’t find anything close but I’m hoping that you know of something.
Thanks
Hi Lisa,
I have been pouring through stitch pattern books tonight and regrettably have not found one that looks the same as the Gobelin Stitch. But I will encourage you, if you can knit, the steps required to work Tunisian crochet are not any harder and worth a try! I send good luck and thanks for writing!
Kristy
Thank you so much for this pattern! My grandmother taught me this in elementary school – she called it CroKnitting. My grandpa made all of us hooks. I only made afghans with this hook, so I’m thrilled to try something more giftable, and cherish working with my heirloom hooks. Thanks again!
Hi PJ,
That is so special that your grandpa made your hooks! And it is wonderful that you’ll be using them for this project! Thank you so much for sharing that with us!
Kristy
Thank you for this pattern! It is lovely! I am attempting Tunisian Crochet for the first time with this project and have a question. On the Forward row 1 – it has 42 stitches. Does Forward Row 2 also have 42 stitches? I believe I am making a mistake and increasing or decreasing unnecessarily and that would help out a lot. Thank you very much!
Hi Melissa!
Thanks for writing! Yes! When working the pattern, you should have 42 stitches throughout, on every row. But the problem you’re having may be easy to fix! My first thought is that you might not be chaining one stitch at the start of Return Row 1, and if this is the case, it can throw off your count (chaining one helps maintain an even edge). Let us know if you’ve been chaining one and if you have, we can go through and try to troubleshoot another way. But it’s common to forget to chain one and would result in the issue you describe. It’s great that you’re trying the technique and we’ll get you back on track quickly!
Kristy
This is my first time crocheting (I’m an experienced knitter) and I think I have figured it out with the help of your great tutorials but I am having some trouble with the edges. Once I got past the initial 4 rows, when I do the forward rows 1 and 2, I am short a stitch or 2 at the end because of skipping the first/last space. When I crotchet all the spaces and pick up the chain stitch at the end I have the correct number. But I’m a stickler for directions and this must be wrong. I can’t figure out where I’m going wrong! Any advice?
I love the pattern – I’m a purl soho addict!
Hi Pamela!
That’s great that you’re trying crochet for the first time! On Forward Row 1 of the pattern, you will work the first stitch of the row in space #1, work to the end of the row and skip the last space, working your last stitch into the chain edge. For Forward Row 2, you will work the first stitch of the row in space #2 and work all the way to the end of the row (including the last space) and end by working your last stitch into the chain edge. Alternating between these two rows is what helps maintain your stitch count and helps make sure that your piece stays even. My first thought is that you might not be working into the chain edge at the end of Forward Row 2. Please let us know if this helps and if not, we’ll try to figure out what else might be happening!
Kristy
I love the look of this project and have tried to make it. Unfortunately I’ve had to take it out and restart it 4 or 5 times now. I keep increasing and decreasing on the sides making them totally uneven. I looked up a video on YouTube and I’m still not getting it! Any tips?
Hi Abby! It can be a bit tricky to keep track of what row you’re on when working the scarf and this could be what’s making your work uneven. On Forward Row 1, you’ll work the first stitch of the row in space #1, work to the end of the row and skip the last space, working your last stitch into the chain edge. On Forward Row 2, you’ll work the first stitch of the row in space #2 and work all the way to the end of the row (including the last space) and end by working your last stitch into the chain edge. You alternate between these two rows in order to make sure that your work stays even. What I’ve found helpful is that when I’ve gotten to the end of a row, I will glance back to the beginning and just check to see if I started by working into space 1 or 2. If it’s space 1, I know that I will skip the last space and if it’s space 2, I know that I will work to the end. I’ve also known crocheters who use two different color markers to help distinguish rows, and will place one color at the start of Forward Row 1 and another for Forward Row 2 just to help them keep track. Once you’ve worked about ten rows or so, it should also becomes easier to see where you are and what Row you’re working. Let us know if this helps and I’m sending good luck!
Kristy
I too am having trouble. I am losing a stitch every row. I am using different color stitch markers and even writing down which row I am on… Help?
Hi Amy!
One thought as to what might be throwing you off if you’re losing a stitch every row is to just check and make sure that you’re working the last stitch of each row into the chain edge. On Forward Row 1 you will start by working into the first space and skipping the last, and will finish the row by working into the chain stitch at the very end. For Forward Row 2, you will start the row by working into the second space and work all the way to the end, including the last space and also finish by working into the chain space at the very end. Forgetting the chain space at the end of each row can quickly throw your count off. Let us know if this might be happening and if not, we can work on another way to figure it out!
Kristy
I love this pattern and taught myself the Tunisian crochet stitch in order to make it. However, I seem to have a different problem than those listed above. I am maintaining the right stitch count on the first row but my scarf seems to be angling off to the right. Is this something that is corrected in blocking or am I doing something wrong?
Thanks for your help. Nancy
Hi Nancy!
You mention that you’re maintaining the right stitch count on forward row 1, are you also maintaining the same count on forward row 2? It should be the same and if it isn’t, it may be why the work is angling to the right. Let us know if the counts are the same and if not, we’ll figure out what might be happening in another way!
Kristy
Kristy,
I too am climbing on the problem train. I have restarted several times. I am watching all the things you have mentioned. First, a chain of 42 on the hook Purl sent J yields well beyond 12″; it was closer to 15″, so I pulled it out and chained until it was 12″ – 36 ch. Does the stitch count change on Forward 1 and 2? Avid knitter who knows crochet is becoming frustrated as I have now done this three times. I laugh when I think your description indicates an easy few hours under a tree. It has been anything but. I think you may have to refer me to other knitting projects for pure alpaca if you can’t help me.
Hi Pat,
I’m very sorry that you’ve been having trouble with the project and I am here to help you if I can. Your starting chain is typically longer than the width your project will be. The works tends to condense once you get underway and have completed a few rows. So please know it is not unusual for your starting chain to seem longer than it needs to be and I’m sorry that this has been frustrating. You should see, after working a few rows, that your work will condense and be the width it needs to be.
Your stitch count should remain the same for both Forward Row 1 and Forward Row 2. After completing your Preparation Row and one Return Row, you will be ready to begin (we have a tutorial with photos to show these initial steps if you get stuck: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/04/13/tunisian-crochet-basics/)
The pattern is just two rows, with slight differences between them. On Forward Row 1 you will start by working into the first space, working all the way to the end, skipping the last space, and will finish the row by working into the chain stitch at the very end. For Forward Row 2, you will start the row by working into the second space, working all the way to the end, including the last space and also finish by working into the chain space at the very end. To create the pattern, you will alternate between these two rows, making sure to work Return Rows between each of them.
Please let us know where you might be getting stuck as you work these steps (or at any point along the way). Thanks for writing in,
Kristy
Hi!
Thanks for this wonderful pattern 🙂 This is my first tunisian projc and my problem is that the right side of my work is looser than the left side. Its only the fist one or teo stiches. What can be he reason for this and how can I prevent it?
Thanks 🙂
Sophie
Hi Sophie!
Thanks, it’s a great question! What you’re experiencing in having one side of your work not look exactly like the other (in this case, the right side looser than the left) is entirely normal in Tunisian crochet. Because you chain 1 on your Return Rows, you will create two side edges that don’t look identical (one edge may look slightly looser). A useful step to keep in mind when you start each row is just to make sure your yarn is snugly around your hook (to prevent those stitches from being too loose). And blocking will also help to set your stitches and make your finished piece look even. I hope this helps and thanks a lot for writing in!
Kristy
Hi – I too am having a hard time figuring out pattern. The first time I did this, I lost a stitch on every forward row 1. I followed your color coding on the Tunisian Basics tutorial for determining what is the first and second vertical strands so I believe I have that correct. However, if I were to skip the last vertical strand (before the edge where the chain is), I end up short a stitch. Then, to add to the frustration, I follow instructions for Forward Row 2 – starting in vertical strand 2 from the Basics tutorial – and end up seeming short – so I tried treating the stitch above the chain stitch as the last “vertical strand” even though this really doesn’t make sense to me, and then use the chain stitch to finalize the row count. This results in a very tight and oddly shaped ledge edge compared to the right edge. Please help! Could you do a similar color coding for the end of the row to compare the differences between Forward Rows 1 and 2, similar to the Basics tutorial? I think that would help me solve my problem – I’ve read through all of the responses but I haven’t been able to fix this. Thanks!
Hi Susan,
I’m sorry you’ve been having a hard time, but we’ll definitely find a way to help you figure it out! When you have completed your preparation row, does your work look similar to the first image shown in the pattern under “Work Gobelin Stitch”? You may be counting the second space as the first (a very common mistake) and this could be throwing your count off as you mention above. The ends of both rows will look the same as you come to them. The only difference is that at the end of Forward Row 1, you will skip the last space and work into the chain stitch edge (shown in 3rd image down under “Work Gobelin Stitch”) and for Forward Row 2 you will work all the way to the end (not skipping the last space) and work into the chain stitch edge (shown in the 5th image down). Let us know if this helps and if not, we’ll find another way!
Kristy
This is such a beautiful pattern and my first time trying Tunisian crochet. I was wondering, does it keep curling up as you are working? I have done about 15 rows and and the top and bottom edges keep curling as am I going. Will this eventually lay flat?
Thank you!
Hi Zeena,
Tunisian crochet does have a tendency to curl, although most of the curl should relax once you’ve blocked your scarf. Other tips in decreasing curling are to go up a hook size (sometimes crocheting too tightly with this technique can cause more curling and looser tension can help). I’ve found that some fibers are also more forgiving than others. The Alpaca Pure used for the sample had virtually no curl after wet blocking. Yarns with greater substance and weight tend to curl less (as opposed to lighter weight acrylics). I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any additional questions! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
my question concerns the finish. according to your instructions “On Forward Row 1, insert hook into space number 1, *yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, repeat from * to end of row, ending with one loop on hook. ” why are there 2 loops on hook to pull the yarnover through if we have only 1 loop on hook before we insert into space for yarnover?
thank you
Hi Robin!
When you insert your hook into space number 1 it will be to pull a stitch through that space, so that when you then yarn over, you will be pulling the yarn over through the 2 loops that will be on your hook. Your question prompts a helpful note to clarify and we will be sure to add it to the pattern: “On Forward Row 1, insert hook into space number 1, *pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next space and repeat from * to end of row, ending with one loop on hook.” I hope this helps and thanks a lot for writing in!
Kristy
Hi,
I’ve made the scarf and it looks mighty fine so far. It’s ended up quite wide, so when I make one for my partner I’ll probably start with fewer stitches (we’re moving to England from Australia next year – the cold is going to be a shock!)
I’m just not quite sure what you mean by the last instructions:
“With the right side facing you, join yarn and make a single crochet into each stitch along the bind-off edge. Cut yarn and pull through remaining loop. Repeat for the cast-on edge.”
I don’t know if I’m being dense. I’m new to crochet and knitting for that matter, so it’s probably the terminology that throws me. Which is the right side? What am I joining the yarn to? Where in the bind off and cast on edge am I single crocheting? Photos please? Video tutorials? Haha
Thanks!
Mel.
Hi Mel!
That’s great to hear that you made the scarf and you’re not being dense at all! The terminology can be a bit tricky! The right side of your scarf will be the front or smooth side (the wrong side is the back of the scarf and is nubbly in texture). This video clip may help in showing you how to join the yarn and provides a visual of what the edges look like that you will be working your single crochets into (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lHL8jEbLWg) You can ignore the discussion of the side border edges which you won’t need to work for the scarf. Please let us know if you have any additional questions! Good luck and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
That worked perfectly – thanks!
I’ve started this scarf and the fabric looks GREAT – my only issue is that I wish my edges were as beautiful as yours! Mine are all bumpy and uneven – I’m sure I’m doing something wrong 🙁
Hi Kasamba!
The edges can be a bit tricky with Tunisian Crochet and it’s likely that you’re not doing anything wrong. They will look slight different on each side — one will typically be a bit looser. My best suggestion is to work the edge stitches slight tighter to start and that should help even things out considerably. The edges also become more even after blocking. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
I have been so excited to start this project and am making it as a Christmas gift out of a soft worsted spun wool. It is pretty… but not looking like your photos. It has a much looser almost window pane look to it… with the holes made by inserting the hook into the spaces between the vertical strands quite visible. I tried to get a yarn that was the same weight as what you recommend (but out of wool, rather than alpaca…). I used the same size crochet hook… Is my yarn not bulky enough? Or am I just crocheting too loosely? It doesn’t feel like it… Confused… Thanks for your help, Jeanine
Hi Jeanine!
If you’re getting a lot of see-through in your stitches, you may try using a smaller size hook. Typically, worsted weight yarn will require a hook slightly smaller than the J hook we used for the scarf. I would try a size G and see if that helps! Good luck and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Okay… still trying to work this out… Your beautiful scarf does not look like regular Tunisian Gobelin stitch to me… and now my scarf does… Is it possible that when the instruction for Forward Row 1 says, “Insert hook through space number 1 (between the vertical strands)” that you are actually pulling both of the vertical strands for that stitch onto the hook before pulling the loop. Sorry for not getting it… The picture only shows after this step. I want that lovely woven every other long stitch look of your scarf and I’m going to get it somehow!! What is the difference between this stitch and the introductory Gobelin stitch tutorial? (maybe that’s a better way to ask)… because the result certainly looks different to me.
Hi Jeanine,
We’re here to help you figure it out! For Forward Row 1, when you insert your hook into space number 1, you should be going all the way through the space and pulling up a loop from back to front. You will pull this loop up between the vertical strands on either side of the space, but will not touch these vertical strands in any way. And yes, our Gobelin Stitch tutorial does illustrate the stitch used for the scarf. Please let us know if this helps clarify. A video clip that may also help you to visualize what is going on can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFrwrgK_c3Q. The clip starts with Forward Row 2 of the pattern and refers to the stitch by another name, but the steps are the same. Good luck and please let us know if this helps!
Kristy
Thank you so much, Kristy! That’s what I needed. I created a bunch of interesting new stitch patterns along the way but now my scarf is actually beginning to look like yours. I so appreciate the help. I was taking the YO to mean actually pulling a crochet stitch onto the hook… completely different concept. I so appreciate your patient instruction for this newby!
That’s so great Jeanine, and useful for us too to know where you were getting stuck! Good luck with the scarf and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
Howdy!
Can I get yarn substitutes that I can find in a store? (i.e. Joann, Michaels, Hobby Lobby etc.) I am leaving a for a road trip and do not have time to buy this yarn?
Thanks!
Hi Lia!
In picking a substitute yarn, a good guide would be to find a worsted weight yarn and an afghan hook size between G-I. For fiber content, the heavier the weight, the better, just to help prevent a lot of curling. We found, for example, that the weight of the Alpaca Pure helped prevent the curling that can happen with Tunisian Crochet. Also, if you have a choice of hooks, it’s often better to veer slightly bigger than smaller, as this can also help prevent curling. We hope this helps! Happy travels!
Kristy
How to do I stop the scarf from rolling? Am I crocheting to tight?
sorry didn’t see the previous post
Hi Jody,
We also found that the type of fiber chosen can go a long way to help fix curling. We had great success in wet blocking our Alpaca Pure and found that weightier yarns and natural fibers respond very well to blocking and help your work to dry flat. Hope this helps and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
you guys are the very best
best blanche
Hi thanks for this terrific pattern. I had to restart the scarf a few times because I kept adding/removing stitches on the wrong row until I started counting them to make sure I had the same amount on each row. My problem now is that the edge looks really uneven and wavy so I’m planning on blocking when I’m done. My question is when I finish a forward row and I do my last stitch does it go through both looks of the chain or just one? I’ve been doing it through both and now I’m wondering if this is what is causing the wavy edges. Thanks
Hi Sandra!
Thanks for writing! You should be going through both loops of the chain stitch at the end as you have been, and the edges of the scarf can indeed appear a bit loose, it’s not anything that you’re doing wrong! Being mindful at the end of each row to keep your tension tight can help and blocking also goes a long way to even things out, but it is the nature of the stitch pattern to have looser edges than you might expect. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions!
Kristy
Thanks for this gorgeous pattern. I have never tried Tunisian crochet before so this is my first attempt. I found I was losing stitches the first couple of times I tried it, but then realised that I was missing the step where you always hook through the last chain on every forward row. Now that I have sorted that out, there’s no stopping me. I can’t wait to try other stitches out. So many project, so little time. Happy new year.
Hi Kerryn!
We’re so glad that you’re liking the Tunisian Crochet! Thanks for writing, and Happy New Year to you too!
Kristy
I had put my crochet hooks away for quite some time and have been knitting up a storm however I’m pretty sure it’s time to retrieve those hooks and make this beautiful scarf. It’s a wonder how something so fabulous can be created by such a fairly simple process. Oh yeah and thanks a bunch for the refresher course.
How many yards in a hank and how many hanks does it take to make this scarf and if I’d like to substitute fiber how many yards (generally) to create this scarf! Thanks
Hi Amelia,
There are 109 yards per skein in the Alpaca Pure (https://www.purlsoho.com/alpaca-pure.html) and you’ll need 7 skeins to make the scarf. If substituting and using a similar weight yarn, you’ll need roughly 763 yards total. I hope this helps and please let us know if you have any further questions! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Hey, soooooo many comments and I’d love to read each one to make sure I don’t repeat the question. I’m getting a slant on one side. At the end of my return row. What’s my problem? I have added a link to my Ravelry.com page. http://www.ravelry.com/projects/dittyknitty/tunisian-crochet-scarf
Hi Dee!
Thanks for sending a link to your photos! It looks like you might not be working the very last space on Forward Row 2. Forward Rows 1 & 2 alternate slightly and for Forward Row 1, you will start by working into the first space in the row and skipping the last. For Forward Row 2, you will skip the first space and work all the way to the end of the row, including the last space. Alternating between these two rows will help keep your piece even. I know it can be a bit tricky to keep track, and one way to do this is to check, when you’re nearing the end of a row, what space you started on. If it’s the first, you know automatically that you will have to skip the last space, and if it’s the second, you will know to work to the end. You can also try placing different colored markers at the start of Forward Rows 1 & 2 to help keep track. Your work looks lovely! Please let us know if this helps or if you have any further questions! Good luck!
Kristy
Your beautiful scarf inspired me to try Tunisian crochet and I’m really enjoying it! On my first attempt, I too lost one stitch by the end of the first forward row and only had 41 loops on my hook. I had indeed completed the chain one at the end of the preparation row, so that wasn’t the problem. After pulling the thread out, down to my foundation row, I realized that I had skipped a “bump” when crocheting the preparation row into the foundation row. Problem solved!
Hi Kit!
We’re so glad it worked out! Thanks for writing!
Kristy
Hi I love your site and I love your yarn. I can’t wait to make this scarf. I was wondering if Cascade Yarns Superwash 128 is a good yarn for this project. I need a yarn that is machine washable since I have infants who grab everything with sticky hands!
thanks!
Allie
Hi Allie,
Cascade Superwash 128 should work well for the scarf, and the recommended hook size for the yarn would be a J. It’s useful to note that we found going up a hook size was helpful (with the Alpaca Pure) in keeping the stitch pattern from being too dense or tight, and you may find it useful to do the same with the 128! Please let us know if you have any further questions while making the scarf! Good luck and thanks for writing!
Kristy
I love ur site and tutorials!Would this scarf be suitable for men? I hope to make one for my husband’s birthday!
Hi Joanne,
The scarf would definitely be suitable for men — it creates a beautiful, dense fabric that is entirely unisex. Your husband is lucky! Please let us know if you have any further questions! Good luck!
Kristy
Can you tell me where I might be able to obtain patterns for . Tunisian stitch. Thankyou
Hi Mavis,
Thanks for writing in! Tunisian crochet is such a cool an unique technique. We have several patterns using Tunisian crochet techniques. They can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/tag/tunisian-crochet/
Happy crocheting!
Cassy
Would it be possible to make this with a 5 mm (“H”) hook? I live in Canada and can’t seem to find a size “J” 14 inch hook anywhere, and ordering online would incur hefty shipping charges….any suggestions? Many thanks!
Hi Marnie,
Are you using the Alpaca Pure yarn to make the scarf? If so, you should be okay with the H — your gauge will likely be tighter, but you should still be okay! Please let us know how it works out and thanks for writing in!
Kristy
This is lovely! I am 3/4 in creating this lovely scarf. My only problem is that the ends curl. You said that I have to wash it right?
I would like to hear from you 🙂
Kind regards,
Jolie
Hello, Jolie!
Thank you so much for your interest in our Tunisian Crochet scarf pattern! We recommend blocking your scarf to help tame those ends. We have a great Blocking tutorial here, if you’re interested.
Again, thank you for writing in and if you have further questions please let us know!
Best,
Kumeko
Hi! Thank you so much for the pattern! I just finished and am so happy 🙂
Do we have to single crochet on the 4 sides? I do not quite understand instructions there, sorry 🙁
Thanks again. It is gorgeous. 😉
Hi Bridget,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! For this lovely scarf, you will do a single crochet along the cast on and cast off edges, leaving the sides without additional stitching. This helps keep the cast on and cast off edges a bit tidier and prevents curling!
Happy crocheting!
Cassy
I am working on a swatch in the Tunisian crochet and really like the results with the yarn I am using but it seems like the left side is very loose compared to the right side of the work (as you are looking at the front). Should I have started with a smaller crochet hook? Is this the nature of this style of crochet, will it work itself out? Or maybe it is me? lol Thanks!
Hi Mary,
Thanks for writing us. I think it might be either something you are doing or the nature of the yarn you are using. I’d try it out with a woolier wool and a smaller hook and see if that fares better. Thanks!
-Adam
Hello Purl Soho team,
Lovely scarf, and I have nearly finished the project, however I accidentally cut the yarn towards the middle of the scarf length and at the edge where you would start a forward row. Is there any way to repair it? I would appreciate any tips. Thank you in advance.
J
Hi Julia,
What a bummer! If you can somehow get enough yarn from where the stitch was cut to tie a knot to another piece of yarn, you might be able weave in the tail to secure the loose stitch. Otherwise, the only way is to rip back sadly. Best of luck!
-Adam
easy to follow, to the point directions and great photos to help me find my way. Usually I’m a show me type of crochet-er. Have trouble following the pattern but yours is a different story- it is great!
How can you stop it from curling?
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for the question. You can try wet blocking the scarf by soaking it in warm water with a bit of soap for about 20 minutes. You’ll want to squeeze (not ring) the scarf to eliminate water after draining the bath and then roll it in a towel to eliminate even more water. Lay flat to dry and your scarf should lay flat forever!
-Adam
Hi! Lovely pattern and great tutorial. I started doing a swatch of it 12 stitches across just to test, and for some reason it appears the left side is leaning inwards to the right, tho the stitch count is consistent across all rows. Is that to do with tension, or anything I’m doing wrong? or would that be fixed with stretching during blocking?
Hi Marie,
Thanks for writing in. I’d finish the swatch and block it to see if blocking alleviates the biasing. It could be that your tension is tighter on one side, but I doubt it. Also, this stitch takes a bit of practice, so maybe a bigger and longer swatch is necessary in order to get the hang of the technique.
All the best,
Adam
Hello! I love Tunisian crochet, and this design is beautiful. I did want to note that the chains don’t match the number of loops on the hook–it says chain 42, but then you skip the first chain and begin the row in the second from the hook. This results in 41 loops throughout the work, not 42 (as mentioned in the pattern and comments that have been replied to before). Should I have chained 43, in order to maintain 42 throughout, or am I missing something? Thank you!
Hi Lauren,
I’m sorry you are having trouble with this pattern! Though you are skipping a stitch, you do insert your hook into the chains stitch at the edge, keeping the stitch count at 42. Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I am having the same issue
Hi Kristina,
Thanks for reaching out! Although you do skip the first stitch when working the preparation row, since you begin with one stitch already on your hook from working the chain, after picking up each chain bump, you will end up with 42 stitches on the hook.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’m excited to start this project, but would like to make it 2 color (green and blue). Do you have any suggestions for a row count per color to make it striped while keeping good proportions? Thanks!
Hi Callie,
Thanks for writing in! I would suggest working up a little swatch using the 2 colors to see how the stripes will play with one another. You could really make the stripes any width you would like. The full length of the scarf is 70 inches so to use half of each yarn you will be working 35 inches of each color. You could easily work 2 inch stripes of each color or from something a bit more in the color block range, you could work 5 inch stripes. A swatch will go a long way to helping you decide what width looks best to your eye~
Best,
Cassy
I am confused. @ the end of the directions where it says Finish this seems to be the beginning of the pattern. Can you help me ?
thanks,
Ellen Plitt
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! The directions for this pattern begin where is says “Pattern.” If you scroll above the pictures that appear before “Finish”, you should come to where it says “Pattern” and then “Begin”. This will be the start of the pattern!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello,
This pattern looks very nice. I do not know how to crochet and wonder if there is a comparable pattern for knitting?
Thank you,
Anna.
Hi Anna,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! We do not have a knit version of this pattern and I am not sure what a comparable knit stitch pattern would be. However, we do have a wide selection of knit scarf patterns. They can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/category/knit-accessories/knit-accessories-type-scarves-wraps/
Best,
Cassy
How would you suggest seaming the end together to make it a cowl? or infinity scarf? Maybe a different ending so it doesn’t look funny?
Thanks!
Hi Christine,
Thanks for writing in! You can seam the ends together in any fashion that you feel works best. I would suggest finishing the scarf as noted, being sure to complete the single crochets along each edge. You can then use this edge to either crochet them together on the wrong side or sew them together. Once wrapped around your neck, this join would most probably be minimally seen.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Love the look of this pattern! I’m curious if the Pure Alpaca yarn is really 100g or is it 50g? 109 yds for 100g would be closer to a bulky or super bulky yarn than an aran weight. Aran weight would be closer to 200 yds per 100 g. Thanks!
Hi Heather,
Great question! Alpaca Pure does come in 100 gram skeins and is an Worsted/Aran weight yarn. Alpaca fiber is actually a lot heavier than wool from a sheep! Thus the yardage for the same gauge of yarn at the same skein weight can be dramatically less than that of a skein of wool from a sheep. You may also notice this with yarns that have a blend of alpaca and wool A 100 gram skein of worsted may have less than the expected 150-220 yards that a sheep’s wool skein might have!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hi, can you confirm the number of stitches that should be on the hook at the end of Forward Row 2? Should it be 42 or 41? I went in to the 2nd stitch at the start and the chain at the end bit have an odd number, 41. Thanks.
Hi TJ,
Thanks for writing in! When working the pattern, you should have 42 stitches throughout, on every row. On the Forward Row 1, you skip the last space in the row and on Forward Row 2 you skip the first space in the row. This will result in both rows should end up with the same number of stitches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I also have been having the same issue with stitch count. I have been using your Tunisian Crochet Basics Tutorial to get started, and have followed the directions above precisely, and as many others I have wound up with 41 stitches at the end of Forward Row 2 before chaining 1 to begin the Return row. The math also gives 41 stitches. If you begin with chaining 42 stitches and start picking up at the 2nd chain in (i.e. skipping one chain), you wind up with 41 stitches on the hook from the foundation chain. For the remainder of the pattern the number of stitches remains the same as what is picked up from the foundation chain, not the same as the number of stitches initially chained for the foundation.
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties. When working the pattern, you should have 42 stitches throughout, on every row. But the problem you’re having may be easy to fix! My first thought is that you might not be chaining one stitch at the start of Return Row 1, and if this is the case, it can throw off your count (chaining one helps maintain an even edge). Alternately, on Forward Row 1 of the pattern, you will work the first stitch of the row in space #1, work to the end of the row and skip the last space, working your last stitch into the chain edge. For Forward Row 2, you will work the first stitch of the row in space #2 and work all the way to the end of the row (including the last space) and end by working your last stitch into the chain edge.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi Sarah,
I think you may be making the same mistake I was by working the simple stitch (where the hook is inserted through the vertical post) instead of gobelin (where you insert the hook in the space in between the posts to the back of the scarf and pulling the thread from the back to the front). The pattern looks very different with this technique and the stitches do work out as described.
do you crochet a border on the sides as well as the top & bottom?
Hi Georgiana,
Great question! We only crocheted a border on the cast on and bind off edges. We quite like the selvedge edges as is but if you like you can add a border there as well!
Best,
Cassy
this pattern is so lovely! I have some wool/silk DK yarn that’s just beautiful, do you think it would work with this pattern? are there any adjustments I should make? (maybe a different hook size, or making it a little wider to compensate for the thinner yarn?)
Hi Steph,
Thanks for writing in! I think that you have it spot on! If you would like to use a thinner yarn, you will need to go down to an appropriate hook size for your yarn and work the pattern over more stitches!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Sooo, for those of us who can’t afford a $182 scarf, what are some other affordable yarn options that are similar weight? Would any worsted weight do? I’m still learning about yarn weights.
Thanks
Hi Beth,
We hear you! We totally understand that sometimes our yarn suggestions are more of an inspiration than a reality for many people. We are always happy to recommend less expensive (but still beautiful!) alternatives. In this case, we suggest that you try 5 skeins of Worsted Twist, 5 skeins of Cascade 220 Superwash Aran, or 5 skeins of Cascade Eco Cloud!
Thank you so much for asking. We’re sure that lots of other readers will thank you, too!
Cassy
Hi. I’m from Australia and would really love to knit the Tunisian-Crochet Scarf. Do you know what ply wool I would need that would be similar to your Pure Alpaca.
Thanks
Megan
Hi Megan,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help! Our Alpaca Pure is a Worsted/Aran weight yarn with 4-4.5 stitches per inch. This should make it roughly a 10 ply in the UK/Australian Yarn Weight.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you for your help. I look forward to getting started.
Great pattern that’s been a lot of fun to work up, my only issue is with the left side edges where rows 1 and 2 end before the return row, they are wobbly and uneven and not at all charmingly “selvedge” like the right side edge which looks clean. Any advice on what I’m doing that causes this or a resource you know of for teaching how to make both sides of Tunisian crochet look finished and clean? Many thanks,
Hi Keith,
Thanks for reaching out! Having one side of your work not look exactly like the other is entirely normal in Tunisian crochet. Because you chain 1 on your Return Rows, you will create two side edges that don’t look identical (one edge may look slightly looser). A useful step to keep in mind when you start each row is just to make sure your yarn is snugly around your hook (to prevent those stitches from being too loose). And blocking will also help to set your stitches and make your finished piece look even.
I hope this helps!
Cassy
Hi, love the look but I’m forming a triangle. Both side are going inwards even though I’m chaining 1 and following rows 1 and 2. I thought it was the tension but I counted the stitches and they’re less and less then what I started with. Anyone else experience this?
Hi Melisa,
Thanks for reaching out! Although it is hard to say exactly what is going wrong without seeing your work, I suspect the problem is that you are either not going all the way to the end or skipping too many spaces at the beginning of one or both of the forward rows. It can be challenging sometimes in Tunisian crochet to see exactly where the last stitch is due to the curling edges! I would suggest counting each forward row as you are picking up the loops – for this pattern, you will be picking up 40 stitches in the spaces plus one in the end chain – to make sure you are picking up loops all the way to the end of the row. It may also be helpful to try a smaller swatch to get the hang of things first!
I hope that helps! Best of luck and happy crocheting!
Julianna
Good day 😀
I just found my way to your site and your pattern. Love-love this pattern and want to do it… like right now 🙂 I did few simple pieces in tunisian crochet and they all say that, on the return row you never take 2 stitches on the first stich… that we yo and then pull through only one stitch and then, after, yo and pull through 2 stitches to the end of the row.
I just want to be sure that I “read well” and that there is no error and that, on the return row we yo and pull through the first 2 stitches… and what would be the difference in the pattern if we do just one stitch for the first stitch in the return row…
Thank you sooo much for this pattern, it is beautiful, just looking forward to do it… and I love Vienna.
Hi Amyah,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct that on each return row, you will begin by pulling a loop through the first stitch on the hook only, and then pull through two stitches at a time for the rest of the row. For our pattern, we indicated this by beginning each return row with “Chain 1,” which means to pull a loop through the first stitch only.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve been working on this scarf for a bit now – it’s so incredibly beautiful! – and I have gotten far enough now to notice that the left edge is all wobbly. The right edge is nice and uniform and straight, but something I am doing on the left edge is making it irregular. Any ideas for what could be the issue? I want to frog it and start over again, but it seems pointless until I know how to do better next time.
Thanks!
Hi Louise,
Thanks for reaching out! Having one side of your work not look exactly like the other is entirely normal in Tunisian crochet. Because you chain 1 on your Return Rows, you will create two side edges that don’t look identical (one edge may look slightly looser). A useful step to keep in mind when you start each return row is just to make sure your yarn is snugly around your hook and work your turning chain tightly(to prevent those stitches from being too loose). And blocking will also help to set your stitches and make your finished piece look even.
Best of luck and happy crocheting!
Julianna
I started making this scarf and I love it. But, the left side of my work is not straight. The right side is, but somehow the left edge is not. Is there something you can recommend to get a nice straight edge on both sides of the work? Thanks!
Hello Lousie,
Thanks for reaching out! Having one side of your work not look exactly like the other is entirely normal in Tunisian crochet. Because you chain 1 on your Return Rows, you will create two side edges that don’t look identical (one edge may look slightly looser). A useful step to keep in mind when you start each row is just to make sure your yarn is snugly around your hook (to prevent those stitches from being too loose). And blocking will also help to set your stitches and make your finished piece look even.
I hope this helps and happy crafting!
-Marilla
Hi, I had the same problem but then I realized I wasn’t choosing the right loop at the end of rows every time so it looked a bit messy. You should do the last stitch in Chain 1 you do at the beginning of each back row. So I always put a piece of yarn in this chain 1 loop so I know where to make the last stitch in the following row. It works and the left edge looks reasonably good now 🙂 hope it will help you as well.
i totally fell in love with this! Say, would this work for cashmere yarn that calls for a 3.5mm needle ?
Hello Rose,
Thank you for reaching out and for your kind words! This pattern uses a 6mm hook, so a yarn with a suggested needle of 6mm will work best for this pattern. If you wanted to adjust the pattern you could try adding more stitches and using a 3.5 hook.
I hope this helps and happy crafting!
-Marilla
Hi,
I love this scarf! My problem is that the left side leans outwards and the right side leans inwards, so basically the whole thing leans to the left. Is there a way to eliminate this?
Thanks
Hi Sofi,
Thanks for reaching out! Biasing is actually quite common in Tunisian Crochet and is not a result of doing anything wrong. Blocking the finished scarf should help quite a bit, but the effect will also be diminished if you go up a hook size so your stitches are on the looser side.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi Sofi,
I would like to do this scarf as I think it is really lovely. My daughter bought me some beautiful pure alpaca wool from Peru. I have 10 x 50g balls (122 meters) and wonder if that will be enough. I’m sorry but I don’t know how big a skein is. Thanks for you help.
Hi Katie,
Thanks so much for the kind words! Our scarf used 693 meters, and you have quite a bit more than that, so you should have plenty!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi Purl,
Your Alpaca Pure is absolutely dreamy but it looks like I am late to the train and it’s all sold out. Do you think that you will ever restock it? If not, I see that you have Worsted Twist listed as a substitute but I am a bit worried that it would be a bit itchy on my neck. Is there anything nearly comparable in drape, texture, and feel?
Kicking myself but hoping you can offer some consolation,
Kate
HI Kate,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct; Alpaca Pure has been discontinued and will not be restocked. You can certainly use Worsted Twist in its place and you would need just 5 skeins as the yardage is a bit higher. Worsted Twist is very soft and is made from a super fine merino that is lovely next to skin! You can also substitute any worsted weight yarn here.
Best,
Cassy
I’m loving this beautiful pattern! It’s my first tunisian crochet project. I’m struggling with keeping track if I’m on Row 1 or Row 2 though. It’s hard for me to see where I put my hook in on the row I just finished. Any tips on this?
Hi Rie,
Thank you so much for the kind words and for writing in! If you look at the first stitch below your hook, when you are about to start Row 1, there is a small gap or hole at the beginning of the row, caused by skipping the first space in the previous Row 2. When you are about to start Row 2, the beginning of the row does not have any hole. You may have to keep track on a piece of paper or a row counter for a few rows while looking for this hole, but hopefully after a few rows you will be able to recognize it so you can tell which row is next.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
What a lovely pattern. I would like to crochet this scarf but cannot find Purl Soho’s “Alpaca Pure” yarn on the current website. Is it similar to “Season Alpaca”? I’d like to compare the yardage and weight between the two yarns. Thank you!
Hi Judith,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! Unfortunately, Alpaca Pure has been discontinued, and it was quite different from Season Alpaca, but I’m happy to provide all of the yarn information! Alpaca Pure was an aran weight 100% alpaca yarn that came in 100 gram skeins that each has 109 yards. Our Worsted Twist is an excellent substitution, although you may be able to use Season Alpaca held double. I would definitely recommend crocheting a gauge swatch to see if it will turn out the correct weight!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello,
This is a lovely pattern and since the Alpaca Pure yarn has been discontinued, I just wanted to confirm the yardage required to make this scarf.
Thank you!
Hi Bri,
Thanks for reaching out! Alpaca Pure had 109 yards per skein, and we used about 780 yards for this scarf.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! This is a beautiful scarf and I’m working on it now. I changed the yarn to acrylic and tried different hook sizes but the scarf keeps curling as I’m crocheting no matter what hook size I use. Is that normal? This is the first time I’ve tried this stitch and I want to make sure I’m doing it right 🙂
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! It is actually totally normal for tunisian crochet to curl up on the edges – don’t worry, you’re not doing anything wrong! Crocheting at a loose gauge will help diminish the curling effect, but you will get the best results from blocking the finished scarf.
Best,
Julianna
I am unsure why everyone just starts out with doing a Tunisian Stitch. At 12 yrs old I disliked that curl so much that I simply did Foundation Row of SC, then worked on the “Opposite Edge of the Chain”. NO CURL. Works nicely with a “SC Foundation Chain” as well. This gives the appearance of a little “twisted braid” on that end.
For a nicely finished edge use a row of “Reverse SC.”
Both ends end up looking nice. Try it. You’ll see. I’m now 63. I have much experience and learn more everyday. Thank you.
Tracy, you are so right! I also do a SC foundation on my tunisian projects and it looks so much neater.
Re the reverse SC edge, I thought of doing so though never really tried as I wasn’t sure of how the end result would look like. Will have to try now, to check your advice 🙂
I love this stitch and would like to turn it into a baby blanket. But I’m a little u clear how I make my Tunisian crochet projects wider? Does that make sense?
Hi Jessi,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern gauge 14 stitches = 4″ in Tunisian Crochet Gobelin Stitch. You can convert the pattern to be a baby blanket by adjusting the foundation row chain to to be longer (chain 42 = 12″) and then repeating the pattern as many rows as necessary to achieve the length you desire for the blanket!
I hope this helps and please let us know how this goes!
Gianna
Jessi, If the issue is that you can’t fit all the stitches on your afghan/tunisian hook, there are tunisian hooks attached to cables that will allow you to work on a large number of stitches.
Is it possible to knit a cowl “in-the- round” using the Tunisian stitch
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! Since this is a crochet pattern and not a knitting pattern I think it would be quite easy to work it in the round to be a cowl!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi there! Is this also known as the tunisian full stitch? It looks the same in the pictures, but I’ve never heard of the gobelin stitch before so I wanted to ask.
Thanks!
Jill
Hi Jill,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, it is the same as Tunisian full stitch, just different terms used to describe the technique!
Warmly,
Gianna
This scarf is so lovely. I have a few other projects ahead of it and itching to start, despite weather in the 70s °. Would this work in linen yarn? I read linen is one fabric who feel improves over the years. Having read the beautiful story behind this shawl, I would surely love to know this stitch and make blankets with the other women there in Italy! (Anyone have frequent flyer miles?)
For those who have made this gorgeous item, please give me your tricks and tips. I’m a crochet beginner level.
Hi Frenchy,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I am so glad to hear that you enjoyed this pattern and our explanation! I think linen would be a great option for this scarf, and yes that is correct! Linen gets even better with use over time! Just keep in mind- this pattern is written for a worsted/aran weight yarn so I recommended finding a yarn in the same weight otherwise you would need to make some adjustments to the gauge of the pattern!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
By the way, this is one of the most enchanting short stories I’ve ever read.
I love this scarf and want to learn Tunisian crochet. I can’t find this yarn. What alternative would you suggest?
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes unfortunately we no longer carry Alpaca Pure, but in its place, I would suggest using Woolfolk Tov, our Worsted Twist, or Campo! I just recommend starting off by working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern!
Happy crafting!
Gianna
Hi, this is my first time doing tunisian crochet. You state that we need to chain 42. I found after crocheting the forward row, you end up with less stitches when you insert the hook into the 2nd space. When I insert the hook into space one, I have 42 stitches. Are there supposed to be less stitches after crocheting the forward row?
Hi Barb,
Thanks for reaching out. There should always be the same number of stitches on each row, whether forwards or return! It sounds like you may be missing the final stitch in the forwards row, which should be worked into the chain stitch at the edge of the scarf. Hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Could I substitute your Linen Quill Worsted yarn in this pattern? I’d like to use a yarn with some alpaca fiber in it.
Thanks!
Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely use Linen Quill Worsted for this pattern! As always, we recommend making a gauge swatch before starting a project to be sure you’re working with the right hook, especially when substituting yarns. If this is daunting, I’d recommend checking out a tutorial called All About Gauge, which covers some incredibly helpful information (it’s geared towards knitting gauge, but the same principles apply for gauge in Tunisian crochet)! I hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Is there a good rule of thumb in Tunisian crochet when one has set down their work and come back – to figure out if they were on a fwd or Ret pass?
I have loops on my hook but was I going fwd or on a Ret?
Thank you.
Hi Delah,
That’s a great question! The trick to telling which pass you’re on is to look at the direction of the working yarn. If you follow the working yarn, and the previous stitches it’s attached to are to the right of the hook, then you’re on a forward pass, but if the stitches it’s attached to are to the left, then you’re on a return pass. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m working on the gauge swatch and want to make sure I understand the gauge properly. Is the 14 sts = 4″ meaning that there should be 14 sts and 14 rows that equals about 4″? I think I need to adjust my hook size, but I would like to make sure.
Thanks! 🙂
Hi CJ,
Thanks for reaching out! For this pattern, we actually only give the stitches gauge, which is 14 stitches in 4 inches. The row gauge might be different, but it actually doesn’t really matter for this project! Since you’ll just be working in the stitch pattern until the scarf measures 70 inches long (or your desired length), the row gauge can pretty much be anything. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Could you please tell me if the scarf could be made in linen quill, how much would be needed and what size hook to use?
Thank you!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely make this pattern in Linen Quill! 3 or 4 skeins of this yarn should be plenty to make a good-sized scarf. For the hook size, we generally recommend using a hook anywhere between sizes C and E (2.75-3.5 mm), but Tunisian crochet usually works better with a slightly larger hook than average. I’d say you could try going up to an F or G hook, and the best way to determine which hook to use in the end would be to do some swatching and test each size out! You can go with whichever one gives you the most pleasing density to the fabric.
I also want to let you know that you’ll likely need to chain more stitches to start the scarf than are noted in the pattern, since Linen Quill is a thinner yarn. To determine how many to chain, just chain until the width of the scarf is as wide as you want it to be. Then, you can follow the pattern as written!
I hope this helps you plan your project, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili