Tunisian Crochet Scarf
As a young child visiting my cousins in Vienna, I remember a group of elderly women who gathered daily in a nearby park to crochet under a stand of giant linden trees. They were a tremendously productive group, with projects that seemed to materialize in record speed, though my curiosity focused primarily on one woman who used an especially long, wooden hook. Summoning me over one afternoon, she introduced me to the beautiful art of Tunisian crochet.
With the regular back and forth motion of a typewriter’s carriage, this surprisingly easy technique works up quickly and densely, perfect for warm and cozy scarves. In Gobelin Stitch, the nubbly reverse side is just as appealing as the smooth front, and in Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure, the drape is dramatic and the feel, wonderfully soft.
As crisp fall air descends upon us, find a few hours to steal away to a sunny park bench nestled in a grove of trees, and there, create this beautiful Tunisian Crochet Scarf in no time flat! -Kristy
Materials
- 7 skeins of Purl Soho’s Alpaca Pure (no longer available), 100% super baby alpaca; approximately 763 yards of a worsted weight yarn required. We used the color Heirloom White.
- A size J (6 mm) Afghan crochet hook
Gauge
14 stitches = 4 inches in Tunisian Crochet Gobelin Stitch
Size
12 inches wide x 70 inches long
Pattern
Begin
NOTE: If you’re unfamiliar with the techniques of Tunisian Crochet, please check out our Tunisian Crochet Basics Tutorial.
Foundation Row: Chain 42.
Starting with the second chain from the hook, work a Preparation Row.
Work one Return Row.
Work Gobelin Stitch
Forward Row 1: Insert hook through space number 1 (between the vertical strands), yarn over (yo), pull loop through onto hook.
*Insert hook in next space, yo, pull loop through onto hook, repeat from * to last space.
Skip the last space.
Insert the hook into the chain stitch at the edge and pull loop through onto hook. [42 stitches]
Note: Remember that when you start the next row, you don’t turn the work; you just keep the same side facing you.
Return Row 1: Chain 1, *yo, pull loop through next 2 stitches on hook, repeat from * to end of row, ending with one loop on hook.
Forward Row 2: Insert hook into space number 2, yo, pull loop through onto hook, *insert hook in next space, yo, pull loop through onto hook, repeat from * to end of row, including the last space.
Insert the hook into the chain stitch at the edge and pull loop through onto hook.
Return Row 2: Repeat Return Row 1.
Repeat these 4 Rows until piece measures 70 inches, ending with Return Row 2.
Finish
On Forward Row 1, insert hook into space number 1, *pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, insert hook into next space and repeat from * to end of row, ending with one loop on hook.”
Cut yarn and pull through remaining loop.
With the right side facing you, join yarn and make a single crochet into each stitch along the bind-off edge. Cut yarn and pull through remaining loop.
Repeat for the cast-on edge.
Weave in all ends and block as desired.
Hello Purl Soho team,
Lovely scarf, and I have nearly finished the project, however I accidentally cut the yarn towards the middle of the scarf length and at the edge where you would start a forward row. Is there any way to repair it? I would appreciate any tips. Thank you in advance.
J
Hi Julia,
What a bummer! If you can somehow get enough yarn from where the stitch was cut to tie a knot to another piece of yarn, you might be able weave in the tail to secure the loose stitch. Otherwise, the only way is to rip back sadly. Best of luck!
-Adam
easy to follow, to the point directions and great photos to help me find my way. Usually I’m a show me type of crochet-er. Have trouble following the pattern but yours is a different story- it is great!
How can you stop it from curling?
Hi Sandra,
Thanks for the question. You can try wet blocking the scarf by soaking it in warm water with a bit of soap for about 20 minutes. You’ll want to squeeze (not ring) the scarf to eliminate water after draining the bath and then roll it in a towel to eliminate even more water. Lay flat to dry and your scarf should lay flat forever!
-Adam
Hi! Lovely pattern and great tutorial. I started doing a swatch of it 12 stitches across just to test, and for some reason it appears the left side is leaning inwards to the right, tho the stitch count is consistent across all rows. Is that to do with tension, or anything I’m doing wrong? or would that be fixed with stretching during blocking?
Hi Marie,
Thanks for writing in. I’d finish the swatch and block it to see if blocking alleviates the biasing. It could be that your tension is tighter on one side, but I doubt it. Also, this stitch takes a bit of practice, so maybe a bigger and longer swatch is necessary in order to get the hang of the technique.
All the best,
Adam
Hello! I love Tunisian crochet, and this design is beautiful. I did want to note that the chains don’t match the number of loops on the hook–it says chain 42, but then you skip the first chain and begin the row in the second from the hook. This results in 41 loops throughout the work, not 42 (as mentioned in the pattern and comments that have been replied to before). Should I have chained 43, in order to maintain 42 throughout, or am I missing something? Thank you!
Hi Lauren,
I’m sorry you are having trouble with this pattern! Though you are skipping a stitch, you do insert your hook into the chains stitch at the edge, keeping the stitch count at 42. Let me know if you have any other questions!
-Adam
I am having the same issue
Hi Kristina,
Thanks for reaching out! Although you do skip the first stitch when working the preparation row, since you begin with one stitch already on your hook from working the chain, after picking up each chain bump, you will end up with 42 stitches on the hook.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’m excited to start this project, but would like to make it 2 color (green and blue). Do you have any suggestions for a row count per color to make it striped while keeping good proportions? Thanks!
Hi Callie,
Thanks for writing in! I would suggest working up a little swatch using the 2 colors to see how the stripes will play with one another. You could really make the stripes any width you would like. The full length of the scarf is 70 inches so to use half of each yarn you will be working 35 inches of each color. You could easily work 2 inch stripes of each color or from something a bit more in the color block range, you could work 5 inch stripes. A swatch will go a long way to helping you decide what width looks best to your eye~
Best,
Cassy
I am confused. @ the end of the directions where it says Finish this seems to be the beginning of the pattern. Can you help me ?
thanks,
Ellen Plitt
Hi Ellen,
Thanks for writing in! The directions for this pattern begin where is says “Pattern.” If you scroll above the pictures that appear before “Finish”, you should come to where it says “Pattern” and then “Begin”. This will be the start of the pattern!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello,
This pattern looks very nice. I do not know how to crochet and wonder if there is a comparable pattern for knitting?
Thank you,
Anna.
Hi Anna,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! We do not have a knit version of this pattern and I am not sure what a comparable knit stitch pattern would be. However, we do have a wide selection of knit scarf patterns. They can be found here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/category/knit-accessories/knit-accessories-type-scarves-wraps/
Best,
Cassy
How would you suggest seaming the end together to make it a cowl? or infinity scarf? Maybe a different ending so it doesn’t look funny?
Thanks!
Hi Christine,
Thanks for writing in! You can seam the ends together in any fashion that you feel works best. I would suggest finishing the scarf as noted, being sure to complete the single crochets along each edge. You can then use this edge to either crochet them together on the wrong side or sew them together. Once wrapped around your neck, this join would most probably be minimally seen.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Love the look of this pattern! I’m curious if the Pure Alpaca yarn is really 100g or is it 50g? 109 yds for 100g would be closer to a bulky or super bulky yarn than an aran weight. Aran weight would be closer to 200 yds per 100 g. Thanks!
Hi Heather,
Great question! Alpaca Pure does come in 100 gram skeins and is an Worsted/Aran weight yarn. Alpaca fiber is actually a lot heavier than wool from a sheep! Thus the yardage for the same gauge of yarn at the same skein weight can be dramatically less than that of a skein of wool from a sheep. You may also notice this with yarns that have a blend of alpaca and wool A 100 gram skein of worsted may have less than the expected 150-220 yards that a sheep’s wool skein might have!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hi, can you confirm the number of stitches that should be on the hook at the end of Forward Row 2? Should it be 42 or 41? I went in to the 2nd stitch at the start and the chain at the end bit have an odd number, 41. Thanks.
Hi TJ,
Thanks for writing in! When working the pattern, you should have 42 stitches throughout, on every row. On the Forward Row 1, you skip the last space in the row and on Forward Row 2 you skip the first space in the row. This will result in both rows should end up with the same number of stitches.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I also have been having the same issue with stitch count. I have been using your Tunisian Crochet Basics Tutorial to get started, and have followed the directions above precisely, and as many others I have wound up with 41 stitches at the end of Forward Row 2 before chaining 1 to begin the Return row. The math also gives 41 stitches. If you begin with chaining 42 stitches and start picking up at the 2nd chain in (i.e. skipping one chain), you wind up with 41 stitches on the hook from the foundation chain. For the remainder of the pattern the number of stitches remains the same as what is picked up from the foundation chain, not the same as the number of stitches initially chained for the foundation.
Hi Sarah,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear that you are having difficulties. When working the pattern, you should have 42 stitches throughout, on every row. But the problem you’re having may be easy to fix! My first thought is that you might not be chaining one stitch at the start of Return Row 1, and if this is the case, it can throw off your count (chaining one helps maintain an even edge). Alternately, on Forward Row 1 of the pattern, you will work the first stitch of the row in space #1, work to the end of the row and skip the last space, working your last stitch into the chain edge. For Forward Row 2, you will work the first stitch of the row in space #2 and work all the way to the end of the row (including the last space) and end by working your last stitch into the chain edge.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi Sarah,
I think you may be making the same mistake I was by working the simple stitch (where the hook is inserted through the vertical post) instead of gobelin (where you insert the hook in the space in between the posts to the back of the scarf and pulling the thread from the back to the front). The pattern looks very different with this technique and the stitches do work out as described.
do you crochet a border on the sides as well as the top & bottom?
Hi Georgiana,
Great question! We only crocheted a border on the cast on and bind off edges. We quite like the selvedge edges as is but if you like you can add a border there as well!
Best,
Cassy
this pattern is so lovely! I have some wool/silk DK yarn that’s just beautiful, do you think it would work with this pattern? are there any adjustments I should make? (maybe a different hook size, or making it a little wider to compensate for the thinner yarn?)
Hi Steph,
Thanks for writing in! I think that you have it spot on! If you would like to use a thinner yarn, you will need to go down to an appropriate hook size for your yarn and work the pattern over more stitches!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Sooo, for those of us who can’t afford a $182 scarf, what are some other affordable yarn options that are similar weight? Would any worsted weight do? I’m still learning about yarn weights.
Thanks
Hi Beth,
We hear you! We totally understand that sometimes our yarn suggestions are more of an inspiration than a reality for many people. We are always happy to recommend less expensive (but still beautiful!) alternatives. In this case, we suggest that you try 5 skeins of Worsted Twist, 5 skeins of Cascade 220 Superwash Aran, or 5 skeins of Cascade Eco Cloud!
Thank you so much for asking. We’re sure that lots of other readers will thank you, too!
Cassy
Hi. I’m from Australia and would really love to knit the Tunisian-Crochet Scarf. Do you know what ply wool I would need that would be similar to your Pure Alpaca.
Thanks
Megan
Hi Megan,
Thanks for writing in! I am happy to help! Our Alpaca Pure is a Worsted/Aran weight yarn with 4-4.5 stitches per inch. This should make it roughly a 10 ply in the UK/Australian Yarn Weight.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Thank you for your help. I look forward to getting started.
Great pattern that’s been a lot of fun to work up, my only issue is with the left side edges where rows 1 and 2 end before the return row, they are wobbly and uneven and not at all charmingly “selvedge” like the right side edge which looks clean. Any advice on what I’m doing that causes this or a resource you know of for teaching how to make both sides of Tunisian crochet look finished and clean? Many thanks,
Hi Keith,
Thanks for reaching out! Having one side of your work not look exactly like the other is entirely normal in Tunisian crochet. Because you chain 1 on your Return Rows, you will create two side edges that don’t look identical (one edge may look slightly looser). A useful step to keep in mind when you start each row is just to make sure your yarn is snugly around your hook (to prevent those stitches from being too loose). And blocking will also help to set your stitches and make your finished piece look even.
I hope this helps!
Cassy
Hi, love the look but I’m forming a triangle. Both side are going inwards even though I’m chaining 1 and following rows 1 and 2. I thought it was the tension but I counted the stitches and they’re less and less then what I started with. Anyone else experience this?
Hi Melisa,
Thanks for reaching out! Although it is hard to say exactly what is going wrong without seeing your work, I suspect the problem is that you are either not going all the way to the end or skipping too many spaces at the beginning of one or both of the forward rows. It can be challenging sometimes in Tunisian crochet to see exactly where the last stitch is due to the curling edges! I would suggest counting each forward row as you are picking up the loops – for this pattern, you will be picking up 40 stitches in the spaces plus one in the end chain – to make sure you are picking up loops all the way to the end of the row. It may also be helpful to try a smaller swatch to get the hang of things first!
I hope that helps! Best of luck and happy crocheting!
Julianna
Good day 😀
I just found my way to your site and your pattern. Love-love this pattern and want to do it… like right now 🙂 I did few simple pieces in tunisian crochet and they all say that, on the return row you never take 2 stitches on the first stich… that we yo and then pull through only one stitch and then, after, yo and pull through 2 stitches to the end of the row.
I just want to be sure that I “read well” and that there is no error and that, on the return row we yo and pull through the first 2 stitches… and what would be the difference in the pattern if we do just one stitch for the first stitch in the return row…
Thank you sooo much for this pattern, it is beautiful, just looking forward to do it… and I love Vienna.
Hi Amyah,
Thank you for reaching out! You are correct that on each return row, you will begin by pulling a loop through the first stitch on the hook only, and then pull through two stitches at a time for the rest of the row. For our pattern, we indicated this by beginning each return row with “Chain 1,” which means to pull a loop through the first stitch only.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
I’ve been working on this scarf for a bit now – it’s so incredibly beautiful! – and I have gotten far enough now to notice that the left edge is all wobbly. The right edge is nice and uniform and straight, but something I am doing on the left edge is making it irregular. Any ideas for what could be the issue? I want to frog it and start over again, but it seems pointless until I know how to do better next time.
Thanks!
Hi Louise,
Thanks for reaching out! Having one side of your work not look exactly like the other is entirely normal in Tunisian crochet. Because you chain 1 on your Return Rows, you will create two side edges that don’t look identical (one edge may look slightly looser). A useful step to keep in mind when you start each return row is just to make sure your yarn is snugly around your hook and work your turning chain tightly(to prevent those stitches from being too loose). And blocking will also help to set your stitches and make your finished piece look even.
Best of luck and happy crocheting!
Julianna
I started making this scarf and I love it. But, the left side of my work is not straight. The right side is, but somehow the left edge is not. Is there something you can recommend to get a nice straight edge on both sides of the work? Thanks!
Hello Lousie,
Thanks for reaching out! Having one side of your work not look exactly like the other is entirely normal in Tunisian crochet. Because you chain 1 on your Return Rows, you will create two side edges that don’t look identical (one edge may look slightly looser). A useful step to keep in mind when you start each row is just to make sure your yarn is snugly around your hook (to prevent those stitches from being too loose). And blocking will also help to set your stitches and make your finished piece look even.
I hope this helps and happy crafting!
-Marilla
Hi, I had the same problem but then I realized I wasn’t choosing the right loop at the end of rows every time so it looked a bit messy. You should do the last stitch in Chain 1 you do at the beginning of each back row. So I always put a piece of yarn in this chain 1 loop so I know where to make the last stitch in the following row. It works and the left edge looks reasonably good now 🙂 hope it will help you as well.
i totally fell in love with this! Say, would this work for cashmere yarn that calls for a 3.5mm needle ?
Hello Rose,
Thank you for reaching out and for your kind words! This pattern uses a 6mm hook, so a yarn with a suggested needle of 6mm will work best for this pattern. If you wanted to adjust the pattern you could try adding more stitches and using a 3.5 hook.
I hope this helps and happy crafting!
-Marilla
Hi,
I love this scarf! My problem is that the left side leans outwards and the right side leans inwards, so basically the whole thing leans to the left. Is there a way to eliminate this?
Thanks
Hi Sofi,
Thanks for reaching out! Biasing is actually quite common in Tunisian Crochet and is not a result of doing anything wrong. Blocking the finished scarf should help quite a bit, but the effect will also be diminished if you go up a hook size so your stitches are on the looser side.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi Sofi,
I would like to do this scarf as I think it is really lovely. My daughter bought me some beautiful pure alpaca wool from Peru. I have 10 x 50g balls (122 meters) and wonder if that will be enough. I’m sorry but I don’t know how big a skein is. Thanks for you help.
Hi Katie,
Thanks so much for the kind words! Our scarf used 693 meters, and you have quite a bit more than that, so you should have plenty!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
Hi Purl,
Your Alpaca Pure is absolutely dreamy but it looks like I am late to the train and it’s all sold out. Do you think that you will ever restock it? If not, I see that you have Worsted Twist listed as a substitute but I am a bit worried that it would be a bit itchy on my neck. Is there anything nearly comparable in drape, texture, and feel?
Kicking myself but hoping you can offer some consolation,
Kate
HI Kate,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct; Alpaca Pure has been discontinued and will not be restocked. You can certainly use Worsted Twist in its place and you would need just 5 skeins as the yardage is a bit higher. Worsted Twist is very soft and is made from a super fine merino that is lovely next to skin! You can also substitute any worsted weight yarn here.
Best,
Cassy
I’m loving this beautiful pattern! It’s my first tunisian crochet project. I’m struggling with keeping track if I’m on Row 1 or Row 2 though. It’s hard for me to see where I put my hook in on the row I just finished. Any tips on this?
Hi Rie,
Thank you so much for the kind words and for writing in! If you look at the first stitch below your hook, when you are about to start Row 1, there is a small gap or hole at the beginning of the row, caused by skipping the first space in the previous Row 2. When you are about to start Row 2, the beginning of the row does not have any hole. You may have to keep track on a piece of paper or a row counter for a few rows while looking for this hole, but hopefully after a few rows you will be able to recognize it so you can tell which row is next.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
What a lovely pattern. I would like to crochet this scarf but cannot find Purl Soho’s “Alpaca Pure” yarn on the current website. Is it similar to “Season Alpaca”? I’d like to compare the yardage and weight between the two yarns. Thank you!
Hi Judith,
Thanks so much for the kind words and for writing in! Unfortunately, Alpaca Pure has been discontinued, and it was quite different from Season Alpaca, but I’m happy to provide all of the yarn information! Alpaca Pure was an aran weight 100% alpaca yarn that came in 100 gram skeins that each has 109 yards. Our Worsted Twist is an excellent substitution, although you may be able to use Season Alpaca held double. I would definitely recommend crocheting a gauge swatch to see if it will turn out the correct weight!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hello,
This is a lovely pattern and since the Alpaca Pure yarn has been discontinued, I just wanted to confirm the yardage required to make this scarf.
Thank you!
Hi Bri,
Thanks for reaching out! Alpaca Pure had 109 yards per skein, and we used about 780 yards for this scarf.
Happy knitting!
Julianna
Hello! This is a beautiful scarf and I’m working on it now. I changed the yarn to acrylic and tried different hook sizes but the scarf keeps curling as I’m crocheting no matter what hook size I use. Is that normal? This is the first time I’ve tried this stitch and I want to make sure I’m doing it right 🙂
Hi Cathy,
Thanks for reaching out! It is actually totally normal for tunisian crochet to curl up on the edges – don’t worry, you’re not doing anything wrong! Crocheting at a loose gauge will help diminish the curling effect, but you will get the best results from blocking the finished scarf.
Best,
Julianna
I am unsure why everyone just starts out with doing a Tunisian Stitch. At 12 yrs old I disliked that curl so much that I simply did Foundation Row of SC, then worked on the “Opposite Edge of the Chain”. NO CURL. Works nicely with a “SC Foundation Chain” as well. This gives the appearance of a little “twisted braid” on that end.
For a nicely finished edge use a row of “Reverse SC.”
Both ends end up looking nice. Try it. You’ll see. I’m now 63. I have much experience and learn more everyday. Thank you.
Tracy, you are so right! I also do a SC foundation on my tunisian projects and it looks so much neater.
Re the reverse SC edge, I thought of doing so though never really tried as I wasn’t sure of how the end result would look like. Will have to try now, to check your advice 🙂
I love this stitch and would like to turn it into a baby blanket. But I’m a little u clear how I make my Tunisian crochet projects wider? Does that make sense?
Hi Jessi,
Thanks for reaching out! This pattern gauge 14 stitches = 4″ in Tunisian Crochet Gobelin Stitch. You can convert the pattern to be a baby blanket by adjusting the foundation row chain to to be longer (chain 42 = 12″) and then repeating the pattern as many rows as necessary to achieve the length you desire for the blanket!
I hope this helps and please let us know how this goes!
Gianna
Jessi, If the issue is that you can’t fit all the stitches on your afghan/tunisian hook, there are tunisian hooks attached to cables that will allow you to work on a large number of stitches.
Is it possible to knit a cowl “in-the- round” using the Tunisian stitch
Hi Maggie,
Thanks for reaching out! Since this is a crochet pattern and not a knitting pattern I think it would be quite easy to work it in the round to be a cowl!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi there! Is this also known as the tunisian full stitch? It looks the same in the pictures, but I’ve never heard of the gobelin stitch before so I wanted to ask.
Thanks!
Jill
Hi Jill,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes, it is the same as Tunisian full stitch, just different terms used to describe the technique!
Warmly,
Gianna
This scarf is so lovely. I have a few other projects ahead of it and itching to start, despite weather in the 70s °. Would this work in linen yarn? I read linen is one fabric who feel improves over the years. Having read the beautiful story behind this shawl, I would surely love to know this stitch and make blankets with the other women there in Italy! (Anyone have frequent flyer miles?)
For those who have made this gorgeous item, please give me your tricks and tips. I’m a crochet beginner level.
Hi Frenchy,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! I am so glad to hear that you enjoyed this pattern and our explanation! I think linen would be a great option for this scarf, and yes that is correct! Linen gets even better with use over time! Just keep in mind- this pattern is written for a worsted/aran weight yarn so I recommended finding a yarn in the same weight otherwise you would need to make some adjustments to the gauge of the pattern!
I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Warmly,
Gianna
By the way, this is one of the most enchanting short stories I’ve ever read.
I love this scarf and want to learn Tunisian crochet. I can’t find this yarn. What alternative would you suggest?
Hi Jennifer,
Thanks for reaching out! Yes unfortunately we no longer carry Alpaca Pure, but in its place, I would suggest using Woolfolk Tov, our Worsted Twist, or Campo! I just recommend starting off by working a gauge swatch prior to beginning to ensure you are consistent with the pattern!
Happy crafting!
Gianna
Hi, this is my first time doing tunisian crochet. You state that we need to chain 42. I found after crocheting the forward row, you end up with less stitches when you insert the hook into the 2nd space. When I insert the hook into space one, I have 42 stitches. Are there supposed to be less stitches after crocheting the forward row?
Hi Barb,
Thanks for reaching out. There should always be the same number of stitches on each row, whether forwards or return! It sounds like you may be missing the final stitch in the forwards row, which should be worked into the chain stitch at the edge of the scarf. Hope this helps clear things up!
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Could I substitute your Linen Quill Worsted yarn in this pattern? I’d like to use a yarn with some alpaca fiber in it.
Thanks!
Susan
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely use Linen Quill Worsted for this pattern! As always, we recommend making a gauge swatch before starting a project to be sure you’re working with the right hook, especially when substituting yarns. If this is daunting, I’d recommend checking out a tutorial called All About Gauge, which covers some incredibly helpful information (it’s geared towards knitting gauge, but the same principles apply for gauge in Tunisian crochet)! I hope this helps.
All the best,
Lili
Hi,
Is there a good rule of thumb in Tunisian crochet when one has set down their work and come back – to figure out if they were on a fwd or Ret pass?
I have loops on my hook but was I going fwd or on a Ret?
Thank you.
Hi Delah,
That’s a great question! The trick to telling which pass you’re on is to look at the direction of the working yarn. If you follow the working yarn, and the previous stitches it’s attached to are to the right of the hook, then you’re on a forward pass, but if the stitches it’s attached to are to the left, then you’re on a return pass. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I’m working on the gauge swatch and want to make sure I understand the gauge properly. Is the 14 sts = 4″ meaning that there should be 14 sts and 14 rows that equals about 4″? I think I need to adjust my hook size, but I would like to make sure.
Thanks! 🙂
Hi CJ,
Thanks for reaching out! For this pattern, we actually only give the stitches gauge, which is 14 stitches in 4 inches. The row gauge might be different, but it actually doesn’t really matter for this project! Since you’ll just be working in the stitch pattern until the scarf measures 70 inches long (or your desired length), the row gauge can pretty much be anything. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Could you please tell me if the scarf could be made in linen quill, how much would be needed and what size hook to use?
Thank you!
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out. You can absolutely make this pattern in Linen Quill! 3 or 4 skeins of this yarn should be plenty to make a good-sized scarf. For the hook size, we generally recommend using a hook anywhere between sizes C and E (2.75-3.5 mm), but Tunisian crochet usually works better with a slightly larger hook than average. I’d say you could try going up to an F or G hook, and the best way to determine which hook to use in the end would be to do some swatching and test each size out! You can go with whichever one gives you the most pleasing density to the fabric.
I also want to let you know that you’ll likely need to chain more stitches to start the scarf than are noted in the pattern, since Linen Quill is a thinner yarn. To determine how many to chain, just chain until the width of the scarf is as wide as you want it to be. Then, you can follow the pattern as written!
I hope this helps you plan your project, but please let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
Lili