Linen Vest for Babies
I do my best to remain unbiased, but as an August-born gal, I have a soft spot for summer babies!
But like many knitters, I’m often challenged to find ways to spoil them when the temperatures rise. Even the biggest wool lovers among us balk at a lap full of hot yarn on a July afternoon. But I’ve got good news… this season, I’ve found summer’s cashmere replacement: Karin Oberg’s Kalinka linen!
There are three Kalinka collections, and I used one yarn from each to knit up my Linen Vests for Babies. With a subtle bloom and loftiness, I made the smallest vest in Kalinka 21, a gorgeous blend of wool and linen. The middle size is in Kalinka 41, a combo of linen and hearty cotton that works up into a denser, slightly more structured fabric. And the largest is in Kalinka, which is 100% linen, cool and collected even in the hottest climates.
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Purl Soho is the only place to find Kalinka on this side of the Atlantic, and it’s here just in time for sweet summer babies and beautiful Linen Vests! -Laura
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Laura Ferguson.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoLinenVestForBabies, and #PurlSohoFieldLinen. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 1 skein of Karin Oberg’s Kalinka. We used…
- Kalinka 21, 55 % linen and 45% wool, in the color Vit for the 0-6 months size
- Kalinka 41, 70% linen and 30% cotton, in the color Silver for 6-12 months size
- Kalinka, 100% linen, in the color Natur for the 12-18 months size
Shop our wonderful collection of fingering-weight yarn to find a suitable substitute for this project, and remember that it’s always a good idea to check your gauge before you cast on… Our All About Gauge Tutorial shows you how!
- US 4 (3.5 mm) circular or straight needles
- Two US 4 double pointed needles (for Attached I-cord)
- A small crochet hook and scrap yarn (for Provisional Cast On)
- 2 stitch holders or scrap yarn
- 1 yard of Carta Inc’s 2/8 Metallic Ribbon by the Yard. We used the color Silver.
- A 110-yard spool of Gutermann’s Cotton Sewing Thread. We used the color 1040.
- A hand-sewing needle
Gauge
26 stitches and 32 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
NOTE: Row gauge may vary slightly between yarns. The pattern is written to accommodate these differences.
Sizes
0-6 (6-12, 12-18) months
- Finished Chest Circumference (including a 2 ¼-inch overlap): 17 ¾ (19, 20 ¼) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Shoulder: 11 (11 ¾, 13) inches
- Finished Length from Bottom Edge to Underarm: 5 ½ (6, 7) inches
EASE: The garment is designed with a ¾- to 1 ¼-inch ease around the chest.
SAMPLES: We knit one in each size.
Pattern
Body
Cast on 130 (138, 146) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Row 1 (right side): Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Continue in stockinette stitch, repeating Rows 1 and 2, until the piece measures 5 ½ (6, 7) inches from the cast-on edge.
Divide Fronts and Back
Row 1 (right side): Knit 33 (35, 37), place previous 33 (35, 37) stitches on a holder for Right Front, bind off the following 6 stitches for Right Underarm, k51 (55, 59), place previous 52 (56, 60) stitches on a holder for Back, bind off following 6 stitches for Left Underarm, knit to end. [33 (35, 37) stitches remain for Left Front]
Left Front
Shape Left Underarm
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to last four stitches, p2tog tbl, p2. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2: K2, ssk, knit to end. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one more time. [29 (31, 33) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl.
Next Row: Repeat Row 2. [28 (30, 32) stitches]
Shape Left Neckline
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, p2tog, purl to end. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2: Knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven (5, 6) more times. [12 (18, 18) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl
Next Row: Repeat Row 2.
Repeat last two rows 1 (4, 4) more time(s). [10 (13, 13) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl.
Next Row: Knit.
Next Row: Purl.
Next Row: Repeat Row 2. [9 (12, 12) stitches]
Beginning with a wrong side row, continue in stockinette stitch, until Left Front measures 4 ¼ (5, 5 ¼) inches from Underarm or until approximately ¾ inches shy of desired finished length, ending with a right side row.
Shape Left Front Shoulder
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to last 2 stitches, p2tog tbl. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2: Bind off 2 (3, 3) stitches, knit to end. [2 (3, 3) stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one more time. [3 (4, 4) stitches]
Repeat Row 1. [2 (3, 3) stitches]
Bind off the 2 (3, 3) remaining stitches.
Right Front
Shape Right Underarm
Slip the 33 (35, 37) Right Front stitches from the holder onto the circular or straight needle.
Joining yarn to wrong side…
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, p2tog, purl to end. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2: Knit to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one more time. [29 (31, 33) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl.
Next Row: Repeat Row 2. [28 (30, 32) stitches]
Shape Right Neckline
Row 1 (wrong side): Purl to last 4 stitches, p2tog tbl, p2. [1 stitch decreased]
Row 2: K2, ssk, knit to end. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seven (5, 6) more times. [12 (18, 18) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl.
Next Row: Repeat Row 2.
Repeat last two rows 1 (4, 4) more time(s). [10 (13, 13) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl.
Next Row: Knit.
Next Row: Purl.
Next Row: Repeat Row 2. [9 (12, 12) stitches]
Beginning with a wrong side row, continue in stockinette stitch until Right Front measures 4 ¼ (5, 5 ¼) inches from Underarm or until approximately ¾ inches shy of desired finished length, ending with a right side row.
Shape Right Front Shoulder
Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 2 (3, 3) stitches purlwise, purl to end. [2 (3, 3) stitches decreased]
Row 2: Knit to last two stitches, k2tog. [1 stitch decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one more time. [3 (4, 4) stitches]
Bind off 3 (4, 4) remaining stitches.
Back
Shape Underarms
Slip the 52 (56, 60) on-hold Back stitches onto the straight or circular needle.
Joining yarn to wrong side…
Row 1 (wrong side): P2, p2tog, purl to last four stitches, p2tog tbl, p2. [2 stitches decreased]
Row 2: K2, ssk, knit to last four stitches, k2tog, k2. [2 stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one more time. [44 (48, 52) stitches]
Next Row (wrong side): Purl.
Next Row: Repeat Row 2. [42 (46, 50) stitches]
Continue Even
Beginning with a wrong side row, continue in stockinette stitch until Back measures the same height as the Fronts, from the Underarm to the Shoulder shaping, ending with a right side row.
Shape Shoulders
Row 1 (wrong side): Bind off 2 (3, 3) stitches purlwise, purl to last two stitches, p2tog tbl. [3 (4, 4) stitches decreased]
Row 2: Bind off 2 (3, 3) stitches knitwise, knit to last two stitches, k2tog. [3 (4, 4) stitches decreased]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 two more times. [24 (22, 26) stitches]
Bind of remaining stitches purlwise for back of neck.
Finish
Sew Shoulders
NOTE: Repeat the following for each shoulder.
Holding the Front and Back bind-off edges parallel and wrong sides together, use a tapestry needle (threaded with the working yarn) to sew the edges together. Sew under the knit stitch at the bind-off edge on one side and then under the knit stitch directly opposite it on the other, continuing until you reach the end.
Work Attached I-Cord Along Right Armhole
With scrap yarn and a crochet hook, use a provisional cast on to cast 4 stitches onto a double pointed needle.
Join working yarn.
With the right side of your work facing you, work an attached i-cord, starting just to the left of the bound-off Underarm stitches. Work up the Back, across the shoulder, down the Front and across the Underarm to where you began, picking up 3 stitches for every 4 rows if working in Kalinka or Kalinka 21 and picking up 2 stitches for every 3 rows if working in Kalinka 41.
Use the Kitchener Stitch to graft together the beginning and end of the I-cord.
Work Attached I-Cord Along Left Armhole
Cast 4 stitches onto a double pointed needle.
Beginning in the same spot as for the Right Armhole, just to the left of the bound-off Underarm stitches, work an Attached I-cord up the Front, across the Shoulder, down the Back and across the Underarm to where you began.
Continue working a normal (unattached) I-cord for 6 inches.
Cut the tail and thread it through the remaining stitches to bind off.
Work Attached I-Cord Along Neckline
Cast 4 stitches onto a double pointed needle.
Work an unattached I-cord for 6 inches.
Continue working I-cord, now as an Attached I-cord, joining it to Right Front Neckline. Work up the Right Front Neckline, across the Back Neckline and down the Left Front Neckline.
Cut the tail and thread it through the remaining stitches to bind off.
Weave + Block
Weave in the ends and block as desired. Allow the vest to dry completely before continuing on to the following section.
Inside Ties
Cut + Hem
Cut two 7-inch pieces of trim and hem each end.
To hem, fold the edge of the trim in ¼ inch, and repeat once more. Sew the folds in place. I used the same technique here as in our
Rolled Edge Hem Tutorial and made two nearly invisible stitches at the bottom of the folds.
Attach Underarm Tie
Center the hemmed edge of the trim just under the Right Underarm stitches, wrong sides together, as pictured above.
With a threaded hand-sewing needle, sew the trim to the garment, tacking it in two places.
Attach Front Left Tie
Place the hemmed edge of the second piece of trim just under the Attached I-cord at the Left Front Neckline, wrong sides together, as pictured above.
Sew the trim to the garment, tacking it in two places.
Enjoy your Linen Vest!
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I think these vests are so cute! Makes me wish I knew a little one to make them one of these.
I have trouble getting gauge with linen or even cotton yarns and I avoid choosing projects to make with linen. It’s because of lack of memory in the linen and I just don’t know how to work with linen yarns.
Do you think washing the yarn before you knit with it would help achieve gauge? Do you have any recommendations of how to use linen yRns?
Thank you for any advice you could pass on.
Hi Bonny.
This is such an interesting point you’ve brought up! Linen can be a bit tricky to work with. I have never pre-washed linen yarn, but I have heard some folks swear by it.
I will say that when I make gauge swatches of linen, I always make rather large ones. I so often work with wools, sometimes it takes a few extra rows for my hands to relax after the switch to such a different feeling/acting fiber. I also always block (or steam or wash) my swatches how I intend to block (steam or wash) my finished piece. Linen has such a drastic before and after difference. Blocking linen is incredibly rewarding.
Do any of you Purl Bee readers out there have any tips for Bonny?!
Bonny, thanks for writing in.
Best,
Laura
Gorgeous! I have an August-born grandson and this will be just the thing for his first birthday. Wish you had an adult size–matching mom and baby vests would be wonderful.
Where is the adult version??? It’s so beautiful I want one myself.
Do you have a pattern like that for adults? I would love to make a couple of these in the same yarn – they are beautiful!
Hi Joan.
Thanks so much for the interest in the pattern. We do not currently have this pattern available for adults, but we’ll definitely keep your request in mind!
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
I would also love this pattern for adults! Thank you for making and sharing such beautiful things!
Does this yarn wash up as well as the Louet, Euroflax?
Hi Poodles27.
Yes! Yes it does. I’m so glad you asked. It’s really striking. I may even argue it washing up a bit better perhaps.
Thanks for writing in.
Laura
This vest is adorable. I bought the Kalinka 41 at your store and plan to work on it as soon as I’m done with my bias wrap in Habu. I’m concerned that this gift will be tight on my nephew by the time I’m done. Any suggestions for making it an inch larger? Any plans on Toddler version? Thanks!
Hi Betty.
Thanks for writing in! The easiest way to modify this piece to increase the circumference about an inch would be to cast on either 4 or 8 extra stitches. Account for these stitches centered on each shoulder… You’ll have an additional 1 (if you added 4) or 2 (if you added 8) stitches at each front shoulder and 1 or 2 at each back shoulder. Naturally the shoulder will be a bit wider. So will the overall circumference. I hope this helps. Please let us know if you have any questions! Thanks. -Laura
this would be awesome in and adult size for those in between seasons!
Hi Laura; i’ve just cast on this little vest, and I have a quick question. On row 1 after the cast on, the pattern indicates that the first row of knit stitches is the wrong side. In the photos, it looks like the knit side of the stockinette is the right side. Are the instructions for this first row in error? Thanks.
Peggy
Hi Peggy.
Thanks for writing in!!! What a huge typo. I have now fixed it, thanks to you!! The knitside of the fabric is definitely the right side and the purlside is considered the wrong side for this pattern.
Peggy, thank you again.
Laura
Hi again, Laura – I spot one more typo for you: Back section, row 1 should be knit to 4 sts before end of row instead of 2 sts.
My littlest vest is turning out so cute – I’m ready now to do the I-cord.
Thanks for a sweet, simple knit that will make the perfect gift.
Peggy
Oh Peggy!
You have caught us not at our best! Thank you so much for this correction. You are absolutely right!! I do hope you are enjoying the pattern despite what you are kindly call typos. I don’t know where we’d be without such a wonderful readership! Thank you once again for writing in to us and with such patience and understanding!
Sending my best…
Laura
I love this vest for my new grand daughter. I would like to perhaps substitute a different yarn. Can you please tell me what ply this yarn is in case I want to substitute.
Thank you
Hi Clarissa.
Thanks for writing in!
I am guessing by how you phrased this question that you are writing from outside of the US. Is that correct? These three yarns are what we’d refer to as a heavy Fingering Weight or thin Sport Weight yarns. I believe that translates to a AUS 4 / 5ply or a UK 4ply yarns working up at 6.5 stitches per inch in stockinette stitch.
If you’d like to research the yarn we used, you can find it here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/3-knitting-crochet-yarn?company=568
Please let us know if you have any questions!
Thanks.
Laura
Having a hard time doing attached icord on neckline. The orientation is messing me up, compared to the armholes. What is the trick?
Hello Joan!
What is actually happening as you’re working on the edging? Have you seen our tutorial? Its available here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2008/01/23/attached-i-cord-tutorial/
In terms of orientation… When you’re looking at the garment, imagine you’re traveling around the armholes like you would a clock… clockwise. So for one armhole you start at the underarm and go towards the back first, then over the shoulder and towards the front, around to the underarm again. For the other armhole you start at the armhole, go towards the front first, over the shoulder and towards the back, back around to the underarm. For the neckline… you start with an unattached icord, then join the front right of the sweater (the left if you’re looking at the sweater) and travel up the front right side, around the back of the neck, down the front left side.
I hope this helps, but if not, please let us know what’s throwing you off and we can work to troubleshoot together! Best of luck! -Alyson
I have a Grandbaby due mid March. I have been looking for a side closing sweater and this is perfect except I need it with long sleeves. Do you have a long sleeve version of this beautiful best or can you advise me how I could add them?
Hi Marcy Lane.
Thanks for writing in and for your interest in this pattern! I’m afraid that at this time we only have this pattern available as a vest, but I’d love to give you some tips for adding sleeves. Once you’ve worked the vest, and before you work the attached i-cord at the armholes… instead of working those i-cords, you could pick up around the armhole and then work a sleeve. You’ll probably want to work a sleeve cap by doing a few short rows to accommodate the set in sleeve structure of the vest, but once you do that you can just knit in the round down to the cuff, decreasing evenly until you have the length and circumference you desire.
I hope this helps!
Please don’t hesitate to write back with any additional questions.
Laura
Divide front and back section
What’s the remainder of the first paragraph?
Hello, Maureen!
Thank you so much for writing in! It looks like when we switched to our new website platform this pattern transferred over a little off, I am so sorry for that inconvience! That enire section should be read continuously, like this, “Row 1 (right side): Knit 33 (35, 37), place previous 33 (35, 37) stitches on a holder for Right Front, bind off the following 6 stitches for Right Underarm. Knit 51 (55, 59), place previous 52 (56, 60) stitches on a holder for Back, bind off following 6 stitches for Left Underarm, knit to end. [33 (35, 37) stitches remain for Left Front]”
Hope that helps! Happy knitting!
Best,
Kumeko
Hello Laura,
I would like to ask you for some tips on how to knit the i-cord properly- my problem is that the i-cord puckers my whole work badly. The armholes look fine (they do run a lot smaller than the original piece though) but the neckline is just bad. The i-cord itself looks nice, but it makes the neckline short and puckered. What am i doing wrong, am I picking up too many stitches? How to avoid this problem? I’m having the same issue with your baby bonnet pattern and I love both of them, they are just a-do-ra-ble 🙂
Thanks for your reply
Judith
Hi Judith,
Thanks for the nice comment! Without seeing the work, I’m pretty sure that you are picking up too many stitches around the parts that are puckered. Make sure that you are always picking up the next stitch and not the stitch you just picked up. I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any more questions!
Happy knitting!
-Adam
Hello Adam,
thanks so much for your reply.
To be honest, I am having some real tough times picking up stitches in general. Even though I understand the idea and know the technique, I still haven’t managed to do it properly. When instructions say “pick up stitches”, I always do it it in this sort of “hope-this will work” manner and I’m pretty sure I’m getting it all messed up, but I just can’ t do any better. Is there any tutorial or detailed explanation on this subject? Hope it doesn’t sound too silly 🙂 I still haven’t figured out what does it mean to actually pick up a stitch and how to do it evenly. On the other hand, if I try to make bigger gaps, the I cord ends up with large holes and it is not attached properly, if I do densely, the whole thing puckers….Oh well. If there is any way you could help me with my issue, I’d be very grateful. I am sure there is a lot more knitters- begginers dealing with the same problem.
All the best
Judit
Hi Judith,
Thank you for writing back. I’d be glad to help you! First of all, click here for a tutorial on how to pick up stitches. I think that this will help. Also, if you have some gapping I’d try to pick up stitches on a smaller size needle to tighten up your tension. This might close some of the gaps or at least hide them better. Let me know how it goes!
-Adam
Hi There,
I have made this for a friend’s baby and whilst I consider myself an experienced knitter, mine has turned out to be rather disappointing. I live in London so can’t come and buy your beautiful yarns (thankfully for my bank balance) but I chose a similar weight.
My finishing/I-cord etc etc just looks very amateurish even though I used your tutorials. Any tips?
Gratefully yours
Hi Victoria,
Thanks for writing in! I think that all of use have struggled with finishing work at some point or another. I-cord can be challenging to master in a pleasing way but I can say that practice does help. You can always go down a needle size if you find that the i-cord looks too loose and unruly. I also always try to do a small sample of i-cord on my swatch to get the hang of it and work out any tension issues that I might be having.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
I knit this and would like to add a picture, but see no where to add picture. Anyway, the baby is not born yet, so it hasn’t been tested, but the pattern was fun and challenging for me anyway. I hope it wears comfortably. I love linen but have only used it a few times.
Hi Martha,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! While it is not possible to add a picture here, you can certainly tag us on instagram or use one of our hastags there (#purlsoho or #purlsohobusyhands) and we will see it! Alternately, if social media is not your thing, you can send one into [email protected]!
Best,
Cassy
I’m hoping to order the ribbon for interior ties, but even though I change the photo to pale blue, it keeps putting red as the color in my shopping basket; yes, I did refresh, too, in vain. Help wanted! Thanks.
Hi Pat,
Thanks for writing in! For the lovely ribbon that we use in this vest, we do not have a pale blue option for sale. We do have a natural with silver that is on the cool side. To purchase any color on offer, you will want to click on the small photo of the color and then select the quantity and click “Add to Basket”. If you are still having difficulties adding the color that you have selected, please do let us know! While we are unable to recreate the issue that you are having, having more details of your issue may help us figure out what could be going wrong!
Best,
Cassy
Hi,
Which of your yarn are you suggeted for this project?
Thank you
Karine
Hi Karine,
Thanks for writing in! This vest would be just lovely in either Field Linen, Cotton Pure, or Spectrum Silk, all of which are easy-care washable yarns that are perfectly soft for babies! As always, when substituting a different yarn, it is a very good idea to knit a gauge swatch first!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
So how many skeins/yards of your linen yarn is necessary to make this vest? it only says Kalinka, which you no longer carry
Hi Kathie,
Thanks for reaching out! Since we no longer carry Kalinka we recommend using 1 or 2 skeins of our Field Linen depending on the size! Each skein is approximately 295 yards.
I hope this helps, happy Knitting!
Gianna