Tiny Tile Quilt
Our Tiny Tile Quilt’s diagonal lines and tiny pieced diamonds may give the impression of expert quilt making, but the reality is much simpler than that. All you really need is the easiest of building blocks: a basic square… and lots of them!
Piecing these squares, corner by corner and then row by row, creates this seemingly complex play of colorful diamonds. Add to that our palette of fresh spring blossoms and fruity sorbets, and the result is playful, sophisticated and a little bit surprising.
Pick up all the fabrics you’ll need with our Tiny Tile Quilt Bundle and make an heirloom… even if you’re a quilting newbie! -Corinne
Update: Now In Spectrum Cotton
October 22, 2019
Our Tiny Tile Quilt is a classic for good reason! We’ve updated this classic project using our Spectrum Cotton. This garment-dyed cotton is gloriously colorful, spectacularly soft, and just right for this very special quilt. Make your Tiny Tile Quilt like ours with our Tiny Tile Quilt Bundle in this glowing Sunrise palette, or pick up an earthier version with the cool and collected Peninsula bundle. Either way, many tiny tiles make one heck of a beautiful quilt! Read all about it here!
Materials
Our Tiny Tile Quilt Bundle includes all the supplies you’ll need to make your very own heirloom blanket. Our original design includes a few fabrics that are no longer available but our updated bundle features two color options and includes all the needed supplies to make your very own Tiny Tile Quilt In Spectrum Cotton!
NOTE: This bundle is no longer available, but you can still shop many of the materials individually below!
- Quilter’s Dream’s Natural Request Dream Batting, Throw Sized, 100% cotton
- Backing Fabric: 3 yards of Kiyohara’s Fine Solids in Beige
- Binding Fabric: ¾ yard of Kiyohara’s Fine Solids in Black
- Fabric A: 1¼ yards Moda’s Muslin, 110-inch, 200 Count in Natural
- Fabric B: Remainder of Kiyohara’s Fine Solids in Beige (after cutting for Backing)
- Fabric C: ½ yard of Kiyohara’s Kokochi Double Gauze in Pink
- Fabric D: ½ yard of Kiyohara’s Fine Solids in Yellow
- Fabric E: ½ yard of Robert Kaufman’s Kona Cotton in Peach
- Fabric F: Remainder of Kiyohara’s Fine Solids in Black (after cutting for Binding)
- Fabric G: ¼ yard of Robert Kaufman’s Kona Cotton in Mango
- Two 274-yard spools of Gutermann’s 100% cotton thread in color 1040
- One 220-yard spool of Gutermann’s Hand Quilting Thread in color 919
These are enough materials to make one 50 x 60-inch quilt.
You will also need…
- A fabric-marking tool. I used a water-soluble fabric marker and a Hera marker.
- A rotary cutter
- A non-slip quilting ruler
- A self-healing cutting mat
Size
Finished dimensions: 50 inches x 60 inches
Note
Prewash and iron all of the fabrics (but not the batting) before starting.
Pattern
Prepare the Backing
Trim the selvage edge off one side of Fabric B.
Cut the Backing Fabric in half across the selvages so that you have two pieces that are approximately 43 x 54 inches each.
With right sides together, stack the two pieces on top of each other, matching up the trimmed selvage edges. Pin the two pieces together along this trimmed edge.
Sew along the pinned edge and press the seam to one side. This piece measures approximately 54 x 84 inches.
Trim this piece down to 54 x 64 inches. This is the Quilt Backing.
Do not discard the 54 x 20-inch piece of fabric you cut off! You will use it later for the Quilt Top.
Cut
If you’re new to rotary cutting, please refer to our Rotary Cutting Tutorial before you start.
For the Binding
From the Binding Fabric, cut six 2 ½-inch strips from selvage to selvage and then trim off the selvages.
For the Quilt Top
This quilt is made up of 120 Large Squares, which measure 5 ½ x 5 ½ inches, and 480 Small Squares, which measure 2 x 2 inches.
Cut 120 Large Squares from Fabric A.
Cut a total of 480 Small Squares (2 x 2 inches) from Fabrics B-G in the following amounts . . .
Fabric B: 120
Fabric C: 120
Fabric D: 90
Fabric E: 88
Fabric F: 40
Fabric G: 22
When you have finished cutting the Small Squares, put them into a paper bag and jumble them all together.
Organize the Large Squares into 12 piles of 10 squares each.
Piece the Squares
Pull 10 Small Squares from the paper bag (no looking!). Do not worry about having an even amount of colors in the pile. The random mix of colors and tones is part of the charm of this quilt!
Pull one Small Square from the pile, and with the wrong side facing up, use your preferred fabric-marking tool (I used a water-soluble fabric marker) and a straight-edge ruler to draw a diagonal line from one corner of the square to another, as shown above.
Repeat for all 10 Small Squares.
Now, grab the first stack of 10 Large Squares.
Lay one Large Square out flat with its right side facing up.
With its wrong side facing up, place one Small Square on one corner of the Large Square so that the marked line runs across the Large Square’s corner (rather than through it), as shown above. Pin in place.
Repeat with the remaining Large and Small Squares.
Now, sew each Large and Small Square together along the marked diagonal line. You can sew the Squares one at a time (you don’t need to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam), or use the quilt-making technique called “chain piecing,” which means continuously sewing the pieces together without lifting the presser foot or cutting the threads. Here’s how . . .
Start sewing the first Square in the pile. When you reach the approximate center of the marked line, grab the next Square in the pile and place it in front of the working Square. Orient its marked line so that it is in line with the marked line of the previous Square. The Large Squares of the two pieces overlap, but the two Small Squares abut, and you should only ever sew through one set of Squares at a time.
Continue like this until you have joined all of the pinned pieces. And that’s chain piecing!
Now, carefully snip the threads between each piece.
Lay one pieced Square out flat. Trim the corner where the Small Square is attached, leaving a ¼-inch seam allowance. The Small Square is now a Small Triangle!
Press the Small Triangle up, pressing the seam allowance towards the Small Triangle.
Repeat with the remaining pieced Squares.
Now, grab 10 more Small Squares from the paper bag. Mark, pin and sew them to an un-sewn corner of the same 10 Large Squares, as described above. Trim the Small Squares into Small Triangles and press, also as described above.
Repeat for the remaining un-sewn corners of the Large Squares, grabbing 10 more Small Squares from the paper bag for each corner.
Once you have pieced all four corners of the Large Squares, you can set these aside and grab another stack of 10 Large Squares from the pile. Piece the Small Squares to these Large Squares in the same manner.
Repeat until all 120 Large Squares have been pieced.
Arrange the Quilt Top
Although the layout of the finished Tiny Tile Quilt appears random, and to a certain extent it is, I suggest arranging the pieced Squares before you sew the rows. This allows you to space the colors as you like and to check that the bold colors don’t group together.
Arrange 10 squares across and 12 rows down.
You will notice as you lay out the Squares that the Small Triangles group together and create rows of colorful diamonds. Group the Triangles as you like, and play around until you have an arrangement of colors that you are happy with!
Take a picture of your final layout. You can reference this photo as you piece the Squares into rows.
Piece the Squares into Rows
Working row by row, organize the Squares into 12 stacks of 10 Squares each.
Sew together a row of 10 squares, working left to right along the row. Here’s how . . .
With right sides together, stack the first and second Square on top of each other and pin along their adjacent sides (refer back to your photograph, as needed, to remind yourself which sides are adjacent in your layout). Sew along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance (you don’t need to backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam).
Now, stack the third square on top of the second square, again with right sides together and adjacent sides aligned. Pin and sew, as described above.
Repeat with the remaining squares in the pile, working in order and referring to your photograph as needed.
Press all the seam allowances in the same direction.
Sew together the next stack of 12 Squares.
Once you have finished piecing this row, press all the seams in the opposite direction as you did in the last row (if you pressed all seams towards the beginning of the previous row, press this row’s seams towards the end, or vice versa).
Repeat with the 10 remaining stacks, always pressing the seams in the opposite direction of the previous row.
Piece the Rows
To finish the Quilt Top, sew together these 12 finished rows. Here’s how . . .
Working from the top down and with right sides together, stack the first and second row on top of each other. Align the long bottom edge of the first row with the long top edge of the second row. Pin them together along this edge, making sure that all straight seams are aligned. Sew along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance. Press the seams open.
Now, stack the third row on top of the second row, again with right sides together and adjacent sides aligned. Pin and sew, as described above.
Repeat with the 10 remaining rows.
Your Quilt Top is now finished!
Mark for Quilting
Press the Quilt Top and then, with the right side facing up, lay it down on a clean, hard surface, most likely a floor.
Using masking tape, tape the fabric down to the floor around all four sides, pulling it taut as you tape. First tack down the centers of the opposite sides and then tape along each side, from the center out.
Using a long ruler and starting in one corner, use your preferred fabric-marking tool (I used my Hera Marker) to mark a line along the seam of the corner Small Triangle, shown above in bold.
Now, mark a line 5 inches below and parallel to that line. Use the seam line of the Small Triangle in the opposite corner of the Square as your guide.
Mark the next line 2 inches below and parallel to the last. Use the seam line at the other side of the diamond as your guide.
Continue marking the Quilt Top in this manner, drawing parallel lines that follow the seam lines of every other diagonal row of diamonds.
Now, draw a line perpendicular to any previously drawn line, running along the seam line of any previously marked diamond.
Draw lines parallel to this line in the same manner as described, following the seam lines of every other diagonal row of diamonds.
Baste
Make a quilt sandwich and pin-baste the Backing, batting and Quilt Top together. For instructions on how to do all this, please check out our Pin-Basting Tutorial!
Quilt
Now it’s time to quilt all the pieces together along the marked lines, first sewing all the lines slanting in one direction and then the lines slanting in the other direction..
Using your machine’s walking foot, start with a line that runs through the center of the Quilt (or close to it), sew along this line from one edge of the fabric to the other (you do not need to backstitch at the beginning and end).
To sew the next line, rotate the Quilt 180 degrees and sew along the line running next to the line you just stitched.
Continue to sew along the remaining parallel lines in this same manner: When you have finished sewing one line, rotate the Quilt and sew along the line next to it.
Sew all of the parallel lines on one side of the center line and then sew all of the lines on the other side of the center line in the same manner.
Next, quilt all of the diagonal lines slanting in the other direction in the same way: Start sewing with the center line and alternate directions as you sew along all the parallel lines running to the right and then to the left of this center line.
Trim the batting and Backing along all four sides so that they align with the Quilt Top.
Bind
Use the binding strips you cut from the Binding Fabric to bind the Quilt with double fold binding. For instructions on how to do this, please check out our Making Double Fold Binding and Sewing on Double Fold Binding tutorials. Be sure to use the Hand Quilting Thread for the hand-sewing steps!
Update 2024: You can explore our current collection of beautiful fabrics and supplies on our page of Sewing Tools + Notions!
This is beautiful. I can’t believe how simple the directions are.
Beautiful! If I wanted to make a smaller, crib-size version, what would be your advice? How would it affect fabric amounts? Thanks in advance.
Hello Kim –
This is a great question!
When sizing the quilt down here are a few things to keep in mind . . .
1. Each square on the finished quilt measures 5 by 5 inches. Use this measurement to figure out how many Large Squares you’ll need. To make our 50-inch by 60-inch blanket, we made our quilt 10 squares across and 12 squares down, so 120 Large Squares.
2. To calculate how many Small Squares you’ll need, multiply the amount of Large Squares by 4. We used 480 Small Squares.
3. If you would like the same ratio of colors on your quilt, half of the Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics B and C, 2/3 of the remaining Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics D and E, and the remaining 1/3 Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics F and G.
4. To figure out yardage for the Large Squares, keep this math in mind:
The Large Squares are cut to 5 1/2 inches by 5 1/2 inches. If you are using the same 110-inch wide muslin that we used in our project, you can get 19 Large Squares from each 5 1/2-inch cut of fabric. So, 1/4 yard would yield 19 Large Squares, 1/2 yard would yield 57 Large Squares and 3/4 yard would yield 76 Large Squares, etc.
5. To figure out yardage for the Small Squares, keep this math in mind:
The Small Squares are cut to 2 inches by 2 inches. You can get 20 Small Squares from each 2-inch cut of 44-inch wide fabric. So, 1/4 yard would yield 80 Small Squares, 1/2 yard would yield 180 Small Squares, etc.
6. You will also need to adjust the size of the Backing and the length of the Binding.
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any questions!
-Corinne
This is so beautiful guys!! I JUST LOVE IT!
Thank you for the clear and concise instructions for the tiny squares Quilt! Fantastic! DV
This is spectacular. I’m ordering the kit as soon as I post this. I’ve ordered kits before and it is so great. The cuts are generous and everything is there. Makes everything quicker.
I have only ever ‘quilted’ once…a t-shirt quilt for my son, and I bumbled along. this beautiful quilt is so simply and clearly explained, and your kit is gorgeous…I have a feeling you may make a quilter of me yet! thanks!
What excellent, clear instructions, assuming no pre-knowledge as many do. This quilt is so fresh and dainty. I’m very tempted to make it once I get my sewing room organised and can leave the machine out instead of having to pack up for meals! Thank you.
This is one of the sweetest things I have seen. Would you please give some guidance to someone awful at math for adapting to a queen-size quilt? Thanks so much.
Hi Jenn –
Thanks for writing in!
When sizing the quilt up here are a few things to keep in mind . . .
1. Each square on the finished quilt measures 5 by 5 inches. Use this measurement to figure out how many Large Squares you’ll need. To make our 50-inch by 60-inch blanket, we made our quilt 10 squares across and 12 squares down, so 120 Large Squares.
2. To calculate how many Small Squares you’ll need, multiply the amount of Large Squares by 4. We used 480 Small Squares.
3. If you would like the same ratio of colors on your quilt, half of the Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics B and C, 2/3 of the remaining Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics D and E, and the remaining 1/3 Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics F and G.
4. To figure out yardage for the Large Squares, keep this math in mind:
The Large Squares are cut to 5 1/2 inches by 5 1/2 inches. If you are using the same 110-inch wide muslin that we used in our project, you can get 19 Large Squares from each 5 1/2-inch cut of fabric. So, 1/4 yard (9 inches) would yield 19 Large Squares, 1/2 yard (18 inches) would yield 57 Large Squares, 3/4 yard (27 inches) would yield 76 Large Squares, etc.
5. To figure out yardage for the Small Squares, keep this math in mind:
The Small Squares are cut to 2 inches by 2 inches. You can get 20 Small Squares from each 2-inch cut of 44-inch wide fabric (keeping selvage and shrinkage in mind). So, 1/4 yard would yield 80 Small Squares, 1/2 yard would yield 180 Small Squares, etc.
6. You will also need to adjust the size of the Backing and the length of the Binding.
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any more questions about any of the specifics as you size this quilt up!
-Corinne
Thank you for all the instructions for the different size quilts. I definitely will make this quilt. This will be my 3rd quilt from Purl Bee’s patterns. All came out so lovely, modern, simple yet elegant.
My question: Do you prewash all the fabrics before you cut?
Thank you so much.
Hi Lolita –
Thank you for writing in, and for your kind words about our patterns! It is so inspiring to hear from readers who have finished projects from the site!
Yes, you will want to prewash all fabrics (but not the batting) before you get started on the quilt.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on the project!
-Corinne
I’m going to get started on this soon! What can a person do with all the triangle pieces that are cut off the corners?
Hi Nadine –
Thanks for writing in. This is a great question!
The tiny triangles that are cut off the corners are quite small (the two straight sides are about 1 3/4 inches each). I am sure that there is a fun way to repurpose these small pieces, but I’ll admit that I just threw mine away. I would love to hear any clever ideas you come up with!
-Corinne
I use the small scraps to sew, embroider on my tea towels and knitted wash cloths, burp cloths ect…..
How resourceful! Thanks for sharing your tip! -Alyson
You can use small pieces to make pin cushions.
I chain stitch them into garlands.
You could chain stitch them together and make a miniature pennant garland/bunting?
As I have already written–this is a great quilt pattern and I have the kit.
My only complaint is that the pattern doesn’t print out very well. The page breaks are bad and it’s over-sized in a few places.
I thought this was addressed by the Bee when the last website overhaul was done. Usually when there is a download/print icon the pattern is sharp and pagination is well done. I hope this will be fixed.
regards,
Hi Sandra –
Thank you for writing in. I’m so glad you are happy with the pattern and kit, but I’m sorry you’re not pleased with how the pattern is printing!
The pattern is set up to print exactly how it is laid out in the post, so we unfortunately don’t have much control of where page breaks land. However, the way that our print feature is set up you can easily delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. This should help with some of the issues that you’re having.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns about this feature.
-Corinne
Amazing. Your colors and design are absolutely striking. I seldom buy kits but this is one that I will certainly consider buying if I can fit it into my budget for the month! Thank you for this beautiful quilt.
Well I will try the printing again, but I haven’t had this problem for a long time, so don’t know why it is happening now.
Also–the instructions are somewhat confusing. Usually when there is a wide width fabric (muslin 120″) it is the backing, but not in this case. Instead the backing is pieced from another fabric and the muslin is for the large squares.
Fabric this width is difficult to handle. After washing, it comes out somewhat wonky and it is difficult to cut the 5 1/2 strips to cut into squares. I found that most of the squares are not straight of grain. I tried cutting the fabric into smaller pieces to adjust the grain issue but then was concerned that I wouldn’t be able to obtain the number of squares needed. I suggest that when muslin is needed that a 42″ wide muslin be included if it not for a backing. This might make the kit a bit more costly but it would be much easier to handle the fabric for the cutting. I tried ripping to get a straight edge and so on, but in the end most or many of the squares are not on grain. I am hoping that with the sewing and quilting it will turn out okay.
Also, the double guaze, while a beautiful color and fabric, is very stretchy. I would have been happier with the same color in a more manageable cotton.
I am an experienced sewist so I hope these comments help others who undertake this project.
Hi Sandra –
Thank you so much for sharing your experiences. We’re very sorry you struggled with some of our fabric selections but have our fingers crossed that your quilt will be beautiful, nonetheless. We hear and appreciate your concerns; please let us know if there’s anything we can do to help!
-Corinne
I purchased this beautiful quilt kit to make for my second grandchild. I took it to a quilt store to see if I could get a referral to help quilt the finished top. The women were amazed & perplexed about the double gauze fabric & convinced me to substitute “a suitable quilt fabric” instead. Couldn’t exactly match the peach. I’m looking forward to making the quilt!!
Hi Jann,
Thanks for writing in! We are big fans of Double Gauze here at the shop and have used it in this quilt and many of our employees have used it for other quilts, blankets and even clothing! We totally understand substituting other fabrics and hope that it comes out beautifully!
Happy sewing!
Cassy
Hi!
I love this and would like to purchase the kit. I am trying to upscale it to a 70 x 80″ quilt. I’ve done the sums to work out how many large and small squares I need (224 big squares and 896 small) but I can’t work out how best to order the extra fabric (in the right colours) in addition to what the kit already has. Any good ideas for a quick way to work it out? Or should I go back to square one and order each fabric separately out of the kit?
Thank you!
Vanesas
Hi Vanessa –
This is a great question! You may have seen my reply to a past comment about working out the math for sizing up the quilt. Using these sums, I’ve been able to figure out the extra yardage you’ll need:
Fabric A: Moda’s Moda Muslin-110 inches, 200 count, you’ll need an additional 1/2 yard of fabric.
Fabric B: Kokka’s Fine Solids in Beige, you’ll cut 224 squares and need additional length for the Backing. You’ll need 2 yards additional fabric.
Fabric C: Kiyohara’s Kokochi Double Gauze in Pink, you’ll cut 224 squares and need 1/4 yard additional fabric
Fabric D: Kokka’s Fine Solids in Yellow, you’ll cut 150 squares and won’t need any additional fabric
Fabric E: Robert Kaufman’s Kona Cotton in Peach, you’ll cut 150 squares and won’t need any additional fabric
Fabric F: Kokka’s Fine Solids in Black, you’ll cut 85 squares and need additional length for the binding. You will need 1/2 yard additional fabric.
Fabric G: Robert Kaufman’s Kona Cotton in Mango, you’ll cut 65 squares and won’t need any additional fabric.
Don’t forget that you will also want to size up your Batting to Twin Size (93 inches x 72 inches).
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions!
-Corinne
Thanks so much Corinne! Your maths is far superior to my own!
Do you advise me to buy the kit and add the extras? Or should I just do everything individually? My only concern is the bigger batting as there doesn’t seem to be an option in the shop to change the size.
Thanks!
Hi Vanessa –
Because you will also need to buy the new batting, it will probably be easiest for you to get all of the materials outside of the kit. You can do this online, or call our customer service number (800-597-7875), and they will be happy to pull everything you need!
Happy quilting!
-Corinne
Thanks Corinne!
Button cute. So sweet for a light calm look
I ADORE this quilt. I saw it on Pinterest and was so excited when the link was a tutorial. I will be putting this on my to-do list. I have really enjoyed working with solids lately, and this would be another good challenge for me. 🙂
Hi,
I love this pattern and am planning to make it as a baby quilt. Mine will be smaller, requiring less materials, therefore it is more cost effective for me to buy the fabrics individually. Since I’m not getting the kit, it appears you are all out of the Kokka Fine Solids in beige.
Can you suggest an alternative for this fabric? I’m considering using Rowan shot cotton in Latte, but its hard to tell online if this will be a suitable substitution color wise. And since Purl doesn’t carry it, I’d have to buy it from another source.
Is there a fabric that you would suggest that I could order along with the others from Purl? That would save me shipping costs.
Thanks!
Effie
Hello Effie –
I am happy to help you assemble these fabrics for your quilt!
First, I contacted our New York store, and they currently have quite a few yards of the Kokka Fine Solids in Beige available (their inventory is not linked to the website), so you could give them a call and order directly from the shop. I did not ask about the rest of the materials for the project, but it is possible that you would be able to order everything you need from them!
If you would like to do this, you can give the shop a call any time between 12:00 and 7:00 EST and they will be happy to get everything together for you!
(212) 420-8796
Alternatively, if you feel more comfortable ordering from the web, there are definitely some other fabrics you could consider!
The few that come to mind right away are from our new Handkerchief Linen collection.
The colors Beach or Desert would be the closest match. Or, for a slightly different look, the color Aloe looks quite pretty with the mix (if you are willing to introduce a pale green to the quilt!).
I hope all of this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions!
-Corinne
So simple and beautiful. I love this quilt! Do you know how much yard you would need for fabric B if you only used it for the front and not the backing? Thanks.
Hi Jean –
Thank you for writing in, and for your kind words about this project!
If you are using Fabric B for the Quilt top only, 1/2 yard of fabric will be enough.
Please let me know if you have any other questions while you work on this Quilt!
-Corinne
Hello! I love this quilt and am excited to get started on it! I had one question about the thread used for the actual quilting. Is the Hand Quilting thread okay to use in the sewing machine?
Thanks so much!
Emily
Hi Emily –
This is a great question. The Hand Quilting Thread is included for hand sewing the Binding to the quilt. You will want to use one of the 100% cotton spools in your machine for the quilting.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions!
-Corinne
Or… for a no-waste version, cut half as many of the small squares at a slightly larger 2 3/8″ instead of 2″. When these are cut diagonally (a rotary cutter makes quick work of this) you will have all the corner triangles you need each with a 1/4″ seam allowance. Each square will have made two colored corners and you will not have wasted so much of your beautiful fabric.
FYI I have just completed this quilt using the fabric-saving 2 3/8″ squares. I was pleased to see this suggestion as it allowed me to use up scraps that were too few to make all the 2×2 squares.
I would not suggest using this method. The quilt became extremely fiddly and I had to re-do most of the blocks as the small triangles were difficult to get pinned and sewn correctly.
Also, any error in blocking really showed once the tiles were pieced together as the points did not line up. Further, the quilting itself relied on straight lines from the tiles and if they were slightly off, so was the quilting.
I am by far a newbie quilter so this could all be due to my human error, but if I could go back again I would make sure to use the suggested method of 2×2 squares.
I loved this quilt the first time I saw it! And loved getting to visit your store and see in person. I am so behind in several knitting projects that it will be awhile before I can quilt. How long do you keep the kits? I’d like to wait to purchase, but I don’t want to miss out on it incase you rotate your selections.
Hi Leigh –
Thank you for writing in, and for your kind words about this Quilt! I am so glad it has inspired you to make your own!
This is a great question about the kits. All of our materials kits stay in stock indefinitely, as long as all of the materials we need to assemble the kits are in stock. If you ever notice that a kit is out of stock, it probably just means that we are waiting on shipment of one or more of the materials. If this happens, feel free to email us at customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com and we can give you the details on any particular kit or item and let you know when we are expecting it back in stock.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
I have the kit and tools now, so am committed! I am going to gift this as a baby quilt and want to include care instructions. What do you recommend? Machine washable and drying I hope. Also, what do you think of using the spray starch while ironing to prepare the fabric after pre-washing that some quilters recommend? Supposedly restores some of the sizing and makes the pieces easier to sew together accurately. Or skip the pre-washing and lightly iron? Then the fabric still has its original crispness. Thanks so much for the help! This will be my first quilting project.
Hi Marilyn –
These are all great questions. Thank you for writing in. I am so glad this project has inspired you to make your first Quilt!
As for care: yes! This quilt is fully machine washable and can be thrown in the dryer, as long as all of the fabrics have been washed and dried beforehand. This gets any shrinkage out of the way before the fabrics are sewn together, and will eliminate any distortion that could happen otherwise.
I think that using a spray starch can be a great help when cutting these small shapes. We recommend Mary Ellen’s Best Press Clear Starch, which is more natural than most heavier weight starches you’ll find in stores, and won’t leave any white flakes or residue.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions as you work on the project!
-Corinne
Would you still recommend pin basting and marking with a Hera Marker if quilting by hand?
Thanks!
Hello Sarah –
This is a great question. You will definitely still want to baste and mark before you start quilting, whether by hand or machine. The Hera marker will work well for marking, however thread basting may be preferred to avoid getting your work tangled in the pins. If you would like any tips about thread basting your quilt, you can find our Thread Basting tutorial here.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
I love this quilt and especially the color pallet! However, the mother to be the I would make this for has specific colors. How could I alter the same look to more pinks and blues?
Hello Jennifer –
Thanks for writing in! The colors of the quilt can easily be changed. To create a similar look with the same proportions of colors, you will want to choose a total of 6 colors for your new design. I recommend 4 tonal colors for Colors B-E, 1 dark color for Color F, and 1 bright color for Color G. If you are working in the same size as the original quilt (50 x 60 inches), you can follow all of the yardages given in the pattern for these fabrics.
Half of the Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics B and C, 2/3 of the remaining Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics D and E, and the remaining 1/3 Small Squares should be cut from Fabrics F and G.
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any more questions as you work on your quilt!
-Corinne
This quilt is quite charming and the instructions are very simple.
I do have a suggestion regarding the quilting plan. I have found that the quilting looks better when sewn in one direction only, esp. on the diagonal as you have here. It is slightly easier to go down one way and turn around to go up on the next one and so on, but I noticed in the picture the puckering that results from the opposite drag on the bias by doing it this way. The effect is more pronounced after the cross direction is sewn back and forth also. The whole quilt will be much smoother if each line of stitching is stitched in the same direction.
Another thing that you might consider is that many quilters start quilting from the center of the quilt and work their way alternately on each side of center (and still in the same direction). This way you do not stretch your layers down to the corner on this quilt and find that your rectangular quilt has turned into an irregular rectangle!
Thanks for the lovely design.
Rachel
Hello Rachel –
Thank you for your thorough and thoughtful comment! I am sure many of our readers will find your tips very helpful.
Happy quilting,
-Corinne
I am thinking of making this quilt with left over liberty fabric from the prism quilt. By my calculation I can get 500 2 x 2 squares from what I have left. I would like to make the quilt more of a 65 x 88 size, so I probably need around 300 more 2×2 squares? I would like to just use the random Liberty patterns (of which I have 26 warm). Can I just buy a few pieces of one or two of the Liberty fabrics I already have and how much more do you think I need to buy? I can figure out the white and the back from posts above. Will it look dumb with just random prints in the tiny triangles instead of the coordinated solids?
Hello Lauren –
This sounds like such a lovely idea! I think the mix of Liberty prints together will look really beautiful on this quilt.
My quick math tells me that you will need approximately 250 additional small squares to make a 65 x 70-inch quilt. Each 1/4-yard of the Liberty (a 54-inch wide fabric) should yield around 100 pieces, so you could purchase three 1/4-yard pieces of your favorite patterns to mix in.
Alternatively, it could also be lovely to incorporate some solids into the mix along with all the patterns. The collection of colors in Kihohara’s Fine Solids is lovely, as is the range of Purl Soho’s Handkerchief Linen. Just keep in mind that if you use a more narrow fabric (like Kiyohara’s Fine Solid, which is around 43 inches wide), each 1/4-yard will yield around 80 small pieces instead of 100.
I hope this all helps!
-Corinne
Thanks, Corinne. I LOVE the handkerchief linen. I think I will mix in some solid squares of that and then pick a color that brings out the best in the prints and use it for the binding. Of course I have no idea how much I will need but I can probably figure it out based on a 65 x 70 inch quilt and 2.5 inch binding.
I am so glad the suggestions helped! This quilt sounds like it’s going to be gorgeous!
Please let me know if we can help with anything else.
-Corinne
I would love to make this in King size. I saw the instructions for how to resize, but just wondered, does anyone have the calculations for how much fabric to buy?
Hi Jessica,
Thanks for writing in to us! We don’t have actual specs for a king size version but I know that a king size quilt is about double the specs of the quilt shown. I would then buy double the fabric to make it work. You might have a seam down the back if you can’t get 120″ wide muslin, but this is easily accessible on our website. Best of luck and I hope you choose to do it!
-Adam
Love this quilt and will make it for my first neice/nephew with some color changes to make it a bit more gender neutral. I’m curious about batting thickness as you did not specify — which thickness do you suggest and what did you use for this particular quilt?
Thanks!
Hello Rachael!
Thank you for writing in! For this quilt we used Quilter’s Dream’s Cotton Batting in Request Loft. Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Also, is it necessary to purchase the hand quilting thread? I can’t find where it is used in the tutorial, as everything seems to be sewn by machine. Please advise — thank you!
Hi Racheal!
Thank you for writing in! Great question, you’ll use the hand quilting thread to sew the binding to the wrong side of the quilt with a slip stitch. The instructions for this step are found in our Sewing On Double Fold Binding tutorial.
Please let us know if you have further questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Any chance this package will be restocked soon? I love love the fabrics and the ease of having it in a bundle, as I’ve never quilted before. Thanks!
Hi Katie,
Thanks for writing in! On the product page for the kit, you can ask to be notified when the kit is back in stock. At present, we have 2 kits available in the store. To order from the store, you can call us Monday-Friday, 12-7pm; Saturday and Sunday, 12-6pm at (212) 420-8796 and we can process that order!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello, looking forward to attempting this quilt pattern, it is so beautiful. Can I just confirm, so I know I’m reading instructions correctly, am I right in thinking that the backing will have a seam running midway horizontally across the width of the quilt? Does this end up looking odd with the criss-cross quilting on top of it? Appreciate, it’s probably necessary if no way of getting fabric wide enough for one solid piece! Thank you.
Hi Helen,
Thanks for writing in! You are correct. The backing has a seam down the middle. The fabric that we used for the backing only comes in 42″ wide bolts and thus the piecing is necessary. If you would like to avoid piecing for the back, you could use the 90 inch wide 200 count muslin in the Natural color. This will allow you to have an upieced back! That said, we do not think that the seam is distracting with the criss-cross quilting in the end!
Best,
Cassy
Beautiful simple baby quilt! Great design and instructions! It went together very nicely in no time. I ran an extra seem when sewing on the corner squares (before trimming them off) and had another set of ready-made tiny half-square triangles for a border around the outside. Thank you for this great pattern!
Beautiful pattern! Noticed that the bundle was out of stock… added my email to be alerted when it’s back in stock. I was curious what the timeline is for me to be able to order it and start sewing?
Hi Danielle,
Thanks for writing in! I am not certain of a timeline for restocking this item. You can certainly write in to our customer service email and see if they have an idea of when it might be back. They can be reached at [email protected]
Best,
Cassy
This is stunning. I am making it right now and thank you for amazingly clear instructions, and efficiency tips. I love chaining all those squares. The palette is fresh and happy. Purl Soho has the timeless, beautiful projects in all categories.
Thank you for encouraging us to make beautiful things!
This is beautiful! I’m new to quilting, do you think this would look ok if some of the fabric had patterns, or does the solid fabric really “make” this quilt?
Hello Gaby,
Thank you for reaching out. I think this sounds like a fun idea- it could be interesting to have a mix of solids and patterns. Let us know how it goes!
Warmly,
-Marilla
I am a quilter. After the small sqs. Are sewn onto the corners of the large square, don’t you need to square up the large squares? I love this quilt. The directions are great. Think I will give it a try!
Hi Pam,
Thanks for reaching out! We did not find that we needed to square up the larger squares in this lovely pattern but you can certainly do so if needed. You just want to be careful that you maintain the same size for every corner piece as variations caused by squaring them up will be quite apparent in the finished quilt with the 4 color squares in the corners not meeting up of being squares.
Happy sewing!
Cassy
My daughter loves your quilt and would like me to make a queen size quilt for her (I am a beginner quilter). Do you know if it is possible to make the squares bigger? 10″ square to maybe 16″ . If I do this what size would I increase the 2 x 2 inch squares? I am trying to limit all the little 2 x 2 inch squares if possible. Thanks
Hi Pam,
Thanks for reaching out! We are so glad that your daughter loves this quilt! You can certainly increase the size of the squares used here. It is just a matter of proportions and some math! For our quilt, the large squares are cut to be 5 1/2 inches square and the squares in the corner are 2 x 2. With a 1/4 seam allowance, the finished and sewed into the quilt squares will be 5 inches square with triangles that are just around an inch down on each side. So if you would like the finished squares to be 10 inches square, you would cut 10 1/2 squares for the large squares and 4 inch squares for the small squares. If you would like the finished squares to be 16 inches square, you would cut 16 1/2 squares for the large squares and 6 inch squares for the small squares. This should give you a similar look while scaling everything up a bit!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
That helps a lot thanks. I would like to do this as a “quilt as you go” as I am working on a small machine. Do you have any suggestions on how I would go about it? I have done several QAYGO quilts but usually have directions to tell me at which point I would quilt the 3 layers and then join them. Any help would be appreciated!
Hi Pam,
Thanks for writing in! I am not sure how you would modify this pattern for the quilt as you go method. I have never used this method myself so don’t know the best way to go about it. We will certainly keep the technique in mind for the future!
Best,
Cassy
Hey!
I made a baby sized version of this quilt with fabric I had on hand. It turned out amazingly and I’m so happy I found the pattern. Thanks so much!
Kelsie
Hello Kelsie,
Thank you for writing- this is lovely to hear!
Happy sewing,
-Marilla
Kelsie,
I am also making a baby quilt and wondered if your kept the 5.5 in squares or if you adjusted the size. If so, what size smaller square did you use and what was your finished quilt size?
Hi! Beautiful quilt! I love the color scheme and fabrics you’ve chosen and am considering using them for another quilting project. For the Kokochi Double Gauze, the word “gauze” makes me nervous that it wouldn’t be weighty or durable enough for a quilt but you’ve used it here (and it’s very beautiful!). Is it only okay for smaller details on the quilt, as shown here, or is it sturdy enough that a larger proportion of the quilt top could be made of this fabric?
Hi Caitlin,
Thanks for writing in and for the kind words! Double Gauze fabric consists of two layers of loosely woven gauze that are then tacked together at regular intervals, which lends strength and body to the otherwise lightweight and drapey fabric. It is certainly suitable for larger portions of quilts! In fact, our Lap Duvets are sewn out of Double Gauze for both the front and back. If you haven’t ever used Double Gauze, I highly recommend you give it a try – it is a lovely and unique option for both quilts and garments!
Best,
Julianna
Saw Tiny Tile quilt on Fave Quilts and fell in love with it. Simplicity is always elegant and look forward to making this quilt. I have a severe case of SABLE and this will also help reduce twenty years of fabric collecting.
Hi there,
We are building this quilt and we cannot figure out if Fabric A and Fabric B are different. Can you please help clarify.
Thanks in advance!
Hi Jacy,
Thanks for reaching out! Although the colors are similar, we did use two different fabrics for A and B. For Fabric A, we used Moda Muslin, and it creates the background or main color of the quilt top. For Fabric B, we used Kiyohara Fine Solids in Beige, and it is the contrast color in some of the squares for the quilt top and also is used for the quilt backing.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi there!
I am following your quilt pattern (and I LOVE it!), however, I noticed that I only got 72 large squares out of 1.5y of Fabric A. I am hoping I have the sizing correct (5.5×5.5) but I’m curious as to where I might’ve gone wrong.
Thanks!
Hi Kristan,
Thanks for writing in! The size of the large squares that you cut from Fabric A should be 5.5 x 5.5 inches. Fabric A should be roughly 110 x 45 inches. At that size, you should be able to cut around 152 squares that are 5.5 x 5.5 inches (nineteen 5.5 squares can be cut along the 110 inch length and eight squares can be cut along the 45 inch length; 19×8= 152). I am wondering if your Fabric A is not the 110 inch size but rather one of the smaller measurements of muslin. This may explain why you are getting so many fewer squares.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Lovely little design, and I must agree with the comments that the instructions are clear and laid out well.
The use of the full square on these corners is excellent for newer quilters. I press the square back to match the original corner of the block *before* I trim off the extra corners. This way, if I’ve gone really wonky, I can catch it early and choose to leave it or redo it at the discretion of my picky brain. That’s much harder to do after you have trimmed. Also, if I feel that I don’t want to waste those tiny triangles, I could take those little fluffs and make teeeensy half square triangles. Honestly, I have done this, but only using larger blocks to start.
I would note that some double gauze fabrics that are available are very loosely woven, so I would understand and appreciate the local store helping the customer find something similar that would allow the sewist to be successful.
Question-
I pressed the seams into the direction of the triangles are instructed. But when I sew the squares together, one triangle seam is in the direction of the line if the square seam but the other will be opposite. The one that “is against the grain” gets pushed back by the square seam and not lying flat. Do you have a solution of technique to help with that?
Thanks! Love the pattern, love the store!
Hi Heidi,
Thanks for reaching out! It can be a bit tricky to sew these seams, as the two seam allowances do over lap or lay on top of each other. I would suggest just going slowly and using a seam ripper or hump jumper if necessary to ease the fabric under the feed dog so that the seam allowances stay in place.
Best,
Julianna
Hello, it says to “Do not discard the 54 x 20-inch piece of fabric you cut off! You will use it later for the Quilt Top.” after piecing the backing, but I was reading through and didn’t see where it is used again. Does anyone know?
Hi Ted,
Thanks for reaching out! If you check the Materials list, you will see that Fabric B is the remainder of the backing fabric, and will go into the small squares for the quilt top.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
This is such an amazing tutorial and such a cute design. Thank you so much for putting this together. It was so clear and the photos were perfect in describing how to do this.
Hello! I’m cutting my fabrics for this quilt and have run into a problem. I bought 1 1/4 yards of muslin from Joanns for fabric A, of which I’m supposed to get 120 large squares, but I only got 55. I am wondering if the Moda fabric yardage is larger in length? I got 3 yards of fabric B for the backing and excess front squares. I keep double checking and have my fabrics labeled, but cannot see how I’m short so many! Thanks for the help!
Hi Kayla,
Thanks for reaching out! I suspect your muslin may not have been as wide as ours. We used 110″ wide muslin which is much wider than standard! If your muslin was a regular 45″ or 60″ wide, you will definitely need more yardage to cut all the squares. It sounds like another yard and a half should do the trick!
Best,
Julianna
I also love the quilt because of its simplicity and elegance as many said before me. I would like to do the quilt by hand ( embarrassed to Admit that I cannot sew by machine) and queen size , with the block size of 8 or 10 inches. How do I go about it ? Do I make a template for the hexagones, or do I use the same method as the machine sewing. I plan to use the many blue fabric scraps that I have for the corners. If I make it 8” block, should I make the smaller square 3”? Please , give as much advice s possible. I am a beginner.
Hi Mina,
Thanks for reaching out! We don’t have specific instructions for hand piecing this quilt, but there’s no need to be embarrassed – any quilt that can be machine sewn can also be hand sewn just as well! I think it would be best to use the same method we show, taking care not to begin and end your stitching 1/4″ away from the edges of the squares so your stitches don’t extend into the seam allowance. If you are going to make the squares bigger, you have some freedom to make the smaller squares any size you like – I think 3″ sounds like a great size!
I hope that helps, and please do let us know how it turns out!
Julianna
Hi, I would like to make this quilt as a baby quilt. Anyone know how many squares per row and how many rows would be appropriate? Thank!
Hi Sheridan,
How lovely this would be as a baby quilt! Baby quilts generally range form 36 inches square on up to around 52 inches square. The finished size of each of the large squares in this quilt is 5 inches. With that in mind, you would need 7 x 7 squares up to 10 x 10 squares for the baby size!
I hope that this helps and happy sewing!
Cassy
Hello! I just started my tiny tiles quilt journey and just thought I’d add the measurements in metric for any non USA-ers out there.
Quilt Back: 2.7m
Big Squares: 1.2m
Binding: 70cm
Fabric B: 50cm
Fabric C: 50cm
Fabric D: 50cm
Fabric E: 50cm
Fabric F: 30cm
Fabric G: 30cm
The big squares are 14 x 14cm and the small squares are 5 x 5cm. The fabric amounts above add a little extra. For simplicity sake I’ve roughly worked out all the elements separately rather than using leftover bits from back/binding etc. So you’ll probably have a bit extra of those fabrics. Can’t wait to piece it altogether! This is going to be my COVID-19 lockdown project 🙂
Sorry, Big squares should be 1.7m!
Thank you so much, Dee! This is also my Covid-sanity project. First-time quilter, in Australia. Time to use all the fabric I’ve been hoarding… !
Thanks Dee. How did you quiltmaking go?
I am starting this quilt today!
Penny (SE QLD)
Hi Dee!
Just stumbled upon this quilt and am so excited to give it a go. Do you think using small prints for the triangles rather than solids would take away from the look of the quilt? It’s so stunning!
Thank you!
Hi Lindsay,
I think that using small prints for the triangles is a lovely idea! Let us know how it goes if you decide to do this.
All the best,
Lili
I’m new to quilting so I was wondering at which points in the process I should use the 100% Cotton thread vs the hand quilting thread. What is the difference?
Thanks!
Hi Isabella,
Great question! You will be using the 100% Cotton Thread for all machine sewing steps, including piecing the top and machine quilting all three layers together. The Hand Quilting Thread will be used for the final step of attaching the binding, which is done by hand. If you wish to hand quilt instead of machine quilting, you should use the Hand Quilting Thread for that step as well. It has a waxy coating that makes it stronger and less prone to tangling, which makes hand sewing much easier!
Best,
Julianna
I love the simplicity of this! I am looking for the bundle and cannot find it. I want to make one with each colorway for my grand children for Christmas. Looking at the fabrics individually, many of them are out of stock. Is there an expected date for them to be back in stock?
Hi Patricia
Thanks so much for writing in! We are currently working with very limited staff at our warehouse due to social distancing requirements, so, unfortunately, we are experiencing some delays in building and restocking kits. We do not have a firm ETA, but I hope that it will be soon. Please sign up to be notified when we get it back in stock by going to the product page. Thanks for being understanding!
Best
Jessica
Hi! What did you do with all the scrap triangles left from trimming the corners where the large and small squares were pieced?? I’d hate to waste so much, just curious if anyone came up with something creative to do with the scraps 🙂
Hi Irene,
Great question! We haven’t tried to use up the leftover triangles ourselves, but you might want to look up something called a Crumb Quilt! It’s a great way to use up even the tiniest scraps of precious fabric!
All the best,
Julianna
I bought this kit 3 years ago and I’m finally sewing it up. This is my very first quilt and for the most part it’s actually gone pretty well. My triangles aren’t perfectly lining up and what I thought would be really easy – sewing the strips of binding fabric together – has actually been my greatest source of seam ripping.
I’m really loving the pattern and the fabrics (my kit had the Kiyohara fabrics instead of the Spectrum fabrics). Anyway, I would just suggest that you not shake up your 2″ squares in a bag to grab at random because all of mine ended up frayed a bit, esp. the double gauze, and that’s just really annoying to trim up.
Pease notify me when bundle for Tiny Tile quilt is available. I understand you are doing your best during this mess we are all in. Thanks.
Hi Beverly,
Thank you so much for reaching out and for the kind words! Unfortunately, we are no longer stocking the Tiny Tile Quilt Bundles, as several of the colors we used have been discontinued. However, you can put together your own palette from our current selection of Spectrum Cotton! A few of the basics, including Raw Oats which we used for the large squares, are out of stock, but should be back soon. You can always enter your email address on the product page for missing colors and we will let you know as soon as they are available!
All the best,
Julianna
I am making a king size quilt with this pattern. 361 back ground squares and 14444 colored squares. I am using 15 colors for the corners. I have all the lines drawn on the backside of the squares and half the squares pinned it the back ground squares . Just started sewing them on. Anxious to see how it works out.
I would love to make this in a king size. Have you completed yours? Do you have photographs you can share? I would love to see them.
Thanks, Sharon
would love to see it when youre done. i want to make a queen size quilt – any suggestions on how to figure out the number of background squares and tiny squares needed? thanks!
I started this quilt with pieces all pre-cut squares which I measured and re-measured many of the pieces. I used a 1/4″ seam allowance but it’s a small disaster. Some are misaligned 1/8″ to a bit more. Such a bummer for my first quilt pattern from PS. Not sure it’s a beginner quilt but one could make it and have it look “off” all over. It would be better to do a simpler pattern if you haven’t every done pieced quilts.
…P.S. ; a full 1/4″ off on some parts
Hi Claus,
Thank you so much for reaching out, and I’m sorry that you aren’t happy with how your Tiny Tile Quilt is turning out! Precisely piecing blocks together is a fundamental skill in quilting, and it can take quite a bit of practice to get the hang of it. Even advanced quilters sometimes struggle with getting their points to line up just so! Our Rotary Cutting tutorial should give you some ideas for how to cut or square up your pieces, and if you don’t already have one, I strongly recommend getting 1/4 inch foot for your sewing machine. It makes it much easier to sew your seam allowances at exactly a 1/4 inch, which will help a lot!
All the best,
Julianna
I bought fabric for this to make a twin size of this pattern 2 or 3 years ago!! I had seen a comment in here somewhere about making this a twin sized quilt, but now I am confused how many “large squares” I should end up with to make the twin sized quilt. I think my math might be off. If anyone could help me out, that would be great!!
The large squares should finish at 5″, so you can divide your desired width and length by 5″ to know how many large squares you need per row and column. Then multiply those to know the total number of squares in the quilt. The number of small squares is 4 times the number of large squares. For example, if you want a 70″ by 90″ quilt, it would be 14 squares wide by 18 squares long, you would need 252 large squares and 1008 small squares
Ashley, did you figure out the yardage needed for a twin size? My math also seems spotty and I’m just not sure how much fabric I need…
Fun pattern! I have 18 fat quarters. Would that be enough to make a king size? I’m afraid to start cutting and I don’t trust myself to figure it out correctly.
Hi Julie,
Thanks for writing in! Depending on the dimensions of your fat quarters I would say you will definitely have enough for the 2″ squares for the color section of the quilt!
All the best,
Gianna
Hi! Is there anyway I can buy just the pattern? Thank you!
Hi Madalyn,
Thanks for reaching out! This is a free pattern and you can find the instructions under the PATTERN section on this page!
I hope this helps!
Warmly,
Gianna
Love this pattern, recently made the quilt top and currently quilting it. Thank you so much for the fabulous and easy to follow instructions.
I made two sets of squares, one set with the seams pressed “in” and one set pressed “out” and alternated them over the whole quilt – the quilt just went together so easily and each seam joint nested up.
Has anyone done the math for how much fabric you would need for a baby blanket size quilt?
Hi! Can anyone please indicate how much fabric would be needed for a baby blanket in this pattern? Thanks.
Hi Rachel!
Thank you for your question! We currently do not have a baby size of this quilt, however we do have our Broken Dishes Baby Quilt, which would be a good reference for how much fabric is needed to make a baby version of this Tiny Tile Quilt! The Broken Dishes quilt uses 1 + 1/4 yards of fabric for the backing, and 1/2 yd. to 1/ yd. pieces of fabric for the various triangles. For the Tiny Tiles Quilt, I would still get at least 1 yard of Fabric A, too, since it is the main color for the large squares in the front section.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Hi! Do you know how many large squares would be needed for a baby size of this quilt?
Hi Sara,
Thank you for asking! Each large square measures 5 1/2″ by 5 1/2″, and for the original size of this quilt we have 12 squares for the length by 10 squares for the width. For a baby size of this quilt, you can do as many or as few squares to reach your desired dimensions, but a good reference point would be 40″ x 30″ or 6 squares x 5 squares!
I hope this is helpful!
All the best,
Margaret
Hey, I just stumbled across this. I’m kind of new to quilting and this was a really neat pattern. I used to quilt with my aunt, but this will be the first one I make all on my own. I like the simplicity. It would be really easy to add on more or less squares and make it whatever size someone wanted it to be. I also really like the way you made it. I think it would be interesting to do the large squares with a couple of different colors or patterns. This is a really good pattern to build off of.