Quilted Wool Vest
Spring can be a fickle friend: Warm and sunny one minute, cloudy and damp the next. It’s hard to prepare for its meteorological vicissitudes, but I think I’ve found a good place to start!
Last year I made a Quilted Vest that was light and padded and just right for layering, and this year I was poised to make another, but… I wanted to change the fabric (to Lanecardate’s amazing Lana Cotta Canberra, of course) and then the lining (Kiyohara’s beautiful Kokochi Double Gauze was an irresistible match), and then the batting (to a lightweight cotton). Next, fresh ideas came to me for diagonal stitch lines, pockets, snaps, and a playful asymmetrical hemline. Before I knew it, I had a whole new pattern!
So, please welcome this Quilted Wool Vest to the spring wardrobe mix! It is every bit as useful as its predecessor but with a whole new look. I hope we can all be friends… fickle or otherwise.! -Corinne
PS- To see an Instagram photo of this project being worn click here!
Materials
- Outer Fabric: 1 (1, 1 1/4, 1 1/4, 1 1/4) yards. I used Lanecardate’s Lana Cotta Canberra in color Grigio 0 (Light Gray).
- Lining Fabric: 1 1/2 (1 1/2, 1 1/2, 1 3/4, 1 3/4) yards. I used Kiyohara’s Kokochi Double Gauze in Pink.
- Please Note: Both Outer and Lining Fabrics used in this project are no longer available.
- Quilter’s Dream’s Natural Request Dream Batting, 100% pure cotton, crib size
- Three 110-yard spools of Gutermann’s 100% Cotton Thread. I used color 9090.
- 1 spool of Gutermann’s Hand Quilting Thread. I used color 4507.
- 6 (6, 6, 7, 7) Sew-on snaps, size 4
- A free Quilted Wool Vest Template, downloaded, printed, prepared and cut out in the appropriate size.
Recommended Tools . . .
- A walking foot for your sewing machine
- Clover’s Chaco Pen with Eraser
- Curved safety pins
- Clover’s Wonder Clips
These are enough materials to make one vest in any size.
Sizes
Notes
- To print the PDF template, be sure to first download the pattern and then print it. This means rather than simply clicking the link and opening the PDF in a browser window, you should click on the pattern link using the “right click” or “control click” option on your mouse or keyboard. This will give you the option to “Download the linked file.” Once the file is downloaded, it should print like a charm!
- All machine sewing should be done with the walking foot attachment.
- The right side of the wool is the side with the small “V” pattern (as opposed to the side with the ridges).
- The recommended care of Lanecardate’s Lana Cotta Canberra is dry clean only.
Pattern
Cut
From both the Lining and the Outer Fabric, use the pattern pieces to pin and cut…
- One Vest Back, on the fold
- Two Vest Fronts
The Vest Fronts from the same fabric should be mirror images of each other. To be sure to cut them with the proper orientation, cut one with the right side of the fabric facing up and one with the wrong side of the fabric facing up, or you can fold the fabric with the right or wrong sides facing each other and cut through both layers at once.
From the Outer Fabric only, also cut . . .
- Two Vest Pockets
- 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) 1 5/8-inch strips from selvage to selvage. These are the Binding Strips.
The two Vest Pockets should be mirror images of each other. Cut them out as described above for the Vest Front pieces.
Prepare the Pockets
Fold the diagonal edge of one Vest Pocket ¾ inch toward the wrong side and press (you can use the Fold Line on the pattern piece as a guide). Sew the folded edge down with a 5/8-inch seam allowance, starting before the fold at the adjacent straight side’s edge and finish after the fold at the adjacent side’s straight edge.
Repeat with the other Pocket piece.
Set the Pockets aside.
Prepare the Binding
With right sides facing, stack two of the Binding Strips on top of each other, lining up the raw edges of one of their short ends. Sew the ends together with a ¼-inch seam allowance. Press the seam open. For sizes fitting 36-39, 40-43 -inch and 44-46 -inch bust, piece an additional Binding Strip to the chain so that the finished Strip is 3 pieces, or approximately 160 inches long.
Fold the remaining Binding Strip in half so that its short ends meet. Cut the Binding Strip at the center crease.
Set the Bindings aside.
Mark
With the right side facing up, lay one Vest Front in the Outer Fabric out flat.
Using the Vest Front pattern piece as a guide, use the Fabric Pen to transfer the two diagonal Quilting Lines to the fabric.
Draw parallel lines every 2 inches to the left and right of these two guide lines. Continue until the entire Vest Front is covered with a 2-inch grid.
Repeat with the other Vest Front piece in the Outer Fabric.
Repeat with the Vest Back in the Outer Fabric, using the Vest Back pattern piece as a guide to transfer the Quilting Lines.
Quilt
Trim the batting down to three pieces: two that are slightly larger than the Vest Fronts, approximately 12 by 25 (12 1/2 by 25, 13 1/2 by 26, 14 1/2 by 27, 15 1/2 by 28) inches each, and one that is slightly larger than the Vest Back, approximately 20 by 26 1/2 (20 1/2 by 26 1/2, 21 by 27, 24 by 28, 25 1/2 by 28 1/2) inches.
Lay one piece of the batting out flat. With the right side facing up, lay the corresponding piece of the Vest in the Outer Fabric on top (in our example below, I am working on the right Vest Front [as the garment is worn]). There should be a small amount of batting extending beyond the Vest on all four sides.
Starting at the center and working out, use the curved arm safety pins to secure the Vest piece to the batting. Avoid pinning on the marked lines. Pin all the way to the edges of the Outer Fabric.
Using your machine’s walking foot, quilt the two pieces together along the marked lines. Here’s how…
Starting with a line that runs roughly through the center of the Vest, sew along this line from one edge of the fabric to the other.
Pick up your foot and needle, but do not cut the thread. Rotate the Vest 180 degrees and sew along the line running next to the line you just stitched.
Continue to sew along the remaining parallel lines back and forth in this same manner: Sew a line, rotate the Vest and sew along the line next to it.
Sew all of the parallel lines on one side of the center line and then sew all of the lines on the other side of the center line.
Next, quilt all of the diagonal lines slanting in the other direction in the same manner: Sew the center line and alternate directions as you sew along all parallel lines running to the right and then to the left of this center line.
Trim the batting so that it is the same size and shape as the Vest piece.
Trim any remaining threads, remove the safety pins and spray water all over the vest to erase the marked lines.
Repeat with the remaining Vest pieces in the Outer Fabric.
Attach Pockets
With the right side facing up, lay one of the quilted Vest Front pieces out flat.
With its right side facing up, place one Pocket on top of the Vest Front, top edge up. Arrange the Pocket so that its long straight edge is 2 inches from the Vest placket and its bottom edge is 1¾ inch from the bottom edge of the Vest (you can use the Pocket Lines on the pattern piece as a guide). Pin the Pocket in place along all its edges except the diagonal one.
Sew the Pocket in place with an edgestitch along the pinned sides. When you reach the corners, insert the needle and pivot so that you have one continuous seam line along all four edges. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
Repeat with the other Pocket piece on the other Vest Front.
Piece
Outer Fabric
With right sides together, stack one quilted Vest Front piece on top of the quilted Vest Back. Line up the raw edges of the side and shoulder seams. Pin these seams in place. Sew along the pinned edges with a 3/8-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seams.
Press the seams open. Sew the seam allowances down with an edgestitch.
Repeat with the other Vest Front.
This is now the Outer Vest.
Lining
With right sides together, stack one Vest Front piece in the Lining Fabric on top of the Vest Back (also in the Lining Fabric). Line up the raw edges of the side and shoulder seams. Pin these seams in place. Sew along the pinned edges with a 3/8-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seams.
Press the seams open. Sew along the raw edges of the seam allowances with a zigzag stitch.
Repeat with the other Vest Front in the Lining Fabric.
This is now the Vest Lining.
Attach the Outer Vest and Vest Lining
With wrong sides facing, tuck the Vest Lining into the Outer Vest, lining up all edges. Smooth out all wrinkles and pin in place along all the edges.
Sew all the way around the raw edges of the Vest (body and armholes) with a long basting edgestitch, making sure to pick up all three layers (Outer Fabric, Batting and Lining) as you sew.
Bind
With right sides facing, sew the long, pieced Binding to the body edge of the Vest with a ¼-inch seam allowance. Start at the center back neck of the Vest and about 2 inches from one short edge of the Binding.
TIP: Because pinning through the multiple layers of fabric can get tricky, I found it easiest to sew the Binding in place without pinning it. I just took it slowly and was very careful at the curves. If you feel more confident securing the fabric, I suggest using the Wonder Clips to hold the layers together.
Continue to sew the Binding in place until you are about 3 inches from the beginning of the seam.
Fold the extra length of both ends of the Binding toward the wrong sides so that the creases of each end meet in the middle of the gap. Press flat.
Sew the two ends of the Binding together at this pressed crease and trim the seam allowance to ¼ inch. Press the seam open. Sew across the gap with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Now, flip the Vest so that the wrong side is facing up. Fold the Binding over the raw edge of the Vest, and then tuck the raw edge of the Binding under, creating a fold that runs flush with the seam line from the previous step.
Working in sections, place the Wonder Clips every couple of inches to hold the folds of the Binding in place.
Using the Hand Quilting thread, sew the Binding to the wrong side of the Vest using a slip stitch. For detailed instructions on how to sew a slip stitch, please visit our Slip Stitch Tutorial!
Using the remaining pieces of Binding, repeat with the armhole edges. Start sewing in the underarm so that the seam of the Binding and the side seam are in line.
Attach the Snaps
Turn the Vest right side out and lay it flat so that the right side of the left Vest Front is on top. Using the Vest Front pattern piece as a guide, transfer the two Snap placement marks to the left Vest Front. Make 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) more marks along the placket edge for the remaining snaps, keeping them evenly spaced and in line with the first two snap marks.
Using the Hand Quilting thread, sew the socket side of the snaps to the marked spots.
Now turn the Vest inside out and lay it flat so that the wrong side of the left Vest Front is on top. Make marks on the wrong side of the right Vest Front at the points where the snaps hit.
Using the Hand Quilting Thread, sew the ball side of the snaps to the marked spots.
Update 2024: You can explore our current collection of beautiful fabrics and supplies on our page of Sewing Tools + Notions!
LOVE how you’ve used the merino for this vest! You’ve also given me a few ideas to modify it so that I have an excuse to make several…maybe one with flannel lining for really cold days, and one with silk lining because, why not? Then another with contrast binding (solid? polka dots? plaid?) …perhaps I should add a faux fur collar, and then sew another with fun embellishments on the pockets…hmm…ornamental buttons on front…add a zipper…contrast color thread for the quilting…
And here I was, wondering what I was going to sew after finishing up a few projects this week!
I’m so glad to see a new adaptation of this vest in wool! I made a version of your previous pattern in wool, and it’s one of my most frequently worn garments. I was surprised how fast and easy the machine sewing and quilting was (and I loved hand sewing the binding!) I made it with a really thick wool batting that’s fantastic for winter. Can’t wait to try this version, and have something great for spring. Thank you for this beautiful pattern.
Oooh I like! I made the first version of this for my Mum for Christmas, and loved it. She did too! I think I’ll be adding this to my making list!
It looks cute, but I’d love to see this on a person. The lack of arms…and head… make Judy not such a great model. 🙂
Hi Mal-
We agree and we do have a shot of this on an actual person! There is a link at the end of the story that takes you to Instagram, or just click here:
https://instagram.com/p/0SsOgyDhRT/?taken-by=purlsoho
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Love this! Thank you for the pattern!
This is really cute. Thanks for sharing.
Can you please suggest other fabrics to use instead of the Lana Cotta Canaberra? I LOVE this vest but at $95/yd I just don’t see it happening in this fabric.
Thanks,
Freida
Hi Freida-
This pattern can work with any medium weight fabric you like, it doesn’t have to be wool! It will still be warm and cozy due to the batting. The original pattern this was based on used a lovely Chambray that you can see here: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9154-Robert-Kaufman-Chambray-Union
We also have some fuzzier wool that might be beautiful: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9278-Dorr-Mill-Wool-Yardage
Or, you could use one of the Robert Kaufman Shetland Flannels, which are super soft and come in a beautiful selection of colors:
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/9570-Robert-Kaufman-Shetland-Flannel
If you do make it with another fabric, keep in mind that the yardage for the Outer Fabric will change.
The Lana Cotta Canberra comes on a 55- inch bolt. If you choose a fabric that is narrower than 55 inches, you will want to use the yardage given for the Lining Fabric to accommodate the Body of the Vest. Also, because the Lana Cotta is knit, the Binding Strips are cut straight from selvage to selvage. To bind the Vest with a woven fabric, you will want to cut the Binding Strips on the bias. This will add an additional 1/2 yard to the yardage. You can follow the instructions for binding on the original Quilted Vest pattern.
Lastly, because the Lana Cotta is felted and the edges do not fray, the raw edges of the Pockets are exposed. If you add pockets with a woven fabric, you will want to add a seam allowance to the straight sides of the Pocket Template and fold these sides under, toward the wrong side before you sew. Check out the Pocket section of our Simple Linen Apron pattern for detailed instructions!
https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2013/12/13/mollys-sketchbook-simple-linen-apron/
Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck with the project!
Best-
Molly
How do I get your pattern?
Hi Sarah-
The free pattern is available here on this page! You can download the template by clicking on the template link in the “Materials” section of the pattern. (Or by going here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Quilted-Wool-Vest_Template1.pdf)
And to print or save the instructions as a PDF you can use our print feature. Here are instructions on how to do that:
If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials.
Thank you for getting in touch!
Molly
I just saw the quilted vest on Rhonda’s site – beautiful
I love this pattern! Gotta have it…thanks so much for sharing this great tutorial to make it too.
would it be possible to reduce this vest to a children’s size, my 6 year old cousin really loves vests. and this would be really cute. any suggestion on reduction tip.
Hi Dimitry –
Thank you for writing in! This vest would be adorable in a kid’s size! Unfortunately with a pattern like this there is no simple way to reduce the size without a reworking of the entire pattern. I’m sorry to say that we do not have the resources to do this at the moment, but we will definitely keep it in mind for the future!
Best,
Corinne
Can this pattern be enlarged?
Hi Lushorn –
I would love to help you with this! Are you interested in larger sizes of the pattern, or just looking to print it out at a bigger scale?
If you would simply like to print the pattern out at a bigger scale, once you have downloaded the pattern and press “print”, the print window should give you an option to adjust the scale of the print to whatever size you like.
If would like to see this pattern in larger sizes, unfortunately this is not something we currently have available. We really strive to include people of every size in our patterns but unfortunately it’s not always possible to go as small or as large as we’d like.
If you are interested in sizing the Vest up, I recommend bringing the pattern to a local tailor for tips on how to get the right fit.
Also, if this is the case, please feel free to email me the size that you are looking for and what kind of patterns you like to sew. It’s great for us know know what sizes our readers are looking for for future designs! My direct email is corinne AT purlsoho DOT com.
I hope one of these answers fits what you were looking for!
-Corinne
I love the look of this pattern! I was just wondering whether it is reversible? Or if not, how I could modify the pattern so that it could be?
Hello RubyRoo –
Thank you for writing in. I’m glad you like the pattern!
The Vest is completely reversible as is. The only differences you will find wearing the Vest with the lining facing out, is that the front will close left over right (as opposed to right over left), there is no quilting on the lining side, and there are currently no pockets.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions.
-Corinne
I love your first AND second vest patterns!
I am curious as to why you didn’t quilt the lining on the second pattern, the way it was done on the first pattern. I just ordered a walking foot for my machine, so this will be my first attempt at a quilted piece. Do you think I would have a better result quilting only two layers? I prefer the look of the quilted lining on the first vest pattern. I’d love to hear your thoughts! Thank you!
Hi Dawn –
Thank you for writing in, and for your kind words about these patterns!
This is a great question! The two main reasons I didn’t quilt through both outer and lining layers on this Vest is that I wanted to keep the shoulder seam allowances hidden between the layers and I didn’t want the stitch lines of the Pockets to show through into the lining. Neither of these is a major issue and can certainly be worked around if you prefer the look of a quilted lining! You can bind the shoulder seams as I did on the first Quilted Vest pattern, and the Pocket seams will be barely noticeable amidst the quilting.
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any other questions!
-Corinne
hi,
do you have a picture of template pieces when joined together.. i have done it and now i am trying to join the shoulders and sides but something seems to have gone wrong and they do not match.. i have printed it in 100% mode..
so many ladies appreciating i am sure the template is correct and i have done some mistake.. please could you help..
Hello SMITA –
Thank you for writing in! I am sorry you are having trouble piecing the template for this project. There are a lot of pages to tape together!
Unfortunately we don’t have a photo of the template fully assembled. However, here’s a tip … for the Vest Front, I recommend first taping piece A to piece B, then piece C to piece D, and finally piece E to piece F. Once you have taped these together you will have three long pieces. I think you will find that once you have these pieces assembled first, putting the full Vest Front together should be fairly clear.
For the Vest Back, first tape piece G to piece H, then piece I to piece J, and then piece K to piece L. You will then assemble these as you did for the Vest Front.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if the template continues to give you trouble, or if you have any other questions as you work on the project.
-Corinne
Thank you for this pattern . I’m trying to find the binding in the pattern ? Is it there in print ? Or do we make it up ?
All the best,
Eva- Maude.
Hello Eva-Maude,
Thank you for your question. You can find the yardage required under the “Pattern” header. You need to cut 3-4 (depending on the size you are making) 1 5/8 inch strips out of the outer fabric from selvage to selvage. To make the binding you will follow the instructions under the “Prepare the Binding” heading. You will then follow the instructions under the section titled “Bind” to attach the binding to the vest. I hope that helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions about this process.
All the best,
Allison
Thank you Allison ,if I use wool I dont need to cut it on the selvage for the binding ? Is this true ?
Hello Eva-Maude –
Correct! You do not need to cut the wool binding strips along the selvage. In fact, cutting across the grain, from selvage to selvage is preferable as it gives the Binding an extra bit of stretch, perfect for attaching around the curves of the Vest.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
Allison thank you ,it’s lovely. Is seam allowance included in pattern .Apologies I’m sure it is mentioned I’m just unable to find it .
All the best,
Eva-Maude.
Hello!
Yes! All seam allowances are included on the pattern pieces.
Please let us know if you have any other questions!
-Corinne
I was wondering how this would look for a man? I’d like to make a winter vest for my husband, and I like the look of this… what do you think?
Hi Colleen!
As one of the gentlemen of Purl Soho I can vouch for the awesomeness of this vest! I’d suggest using a different lining fabric in place of the double gauze. Maybe something from our line of Robert Kaufman Linen Indigo Chambray or our own Water Color Linen? But the idea of a quilted wool vest has me excited for this winter!
Of course you’ll need to size the pattern up to your husband’s specifications and we would love to see the finished results!
Thanks for writing in!
Keith
Can’t wait to make this! Do you think wool batting will work instead of cotton? Because it’s a bit fluffier I’m worried about quilting it without a backing — will it get bunched up in the machine as I sew, and then since it’s not attached to the backing, will it get lumpy and unevenly distributed after I wash it? I’ve never worked with wool batting before but I love the look of it in your other quilted vest.
Hi Renee,
Thanks for writing in! I think that you are correct. Based on the texture of the wool batting, I do think that it could bunch up in the machine. However, you could make a sandwich out of the front fabric, the wool batting and a thin muslin and quilt it together. This will allow you to use the more lofty batting while worrying about it getting bunched up in your machine!
I hope that this helps and happy sewing!
Cassy
I plan to make a man’s vest and I noticed that “Quilted Vest” pattern is not the same as “Quilted Wool Vest”, it’s slightly different arount the neck (and maybe shoulders?) Which one do you think would fit better to a man?
Thank you!
Hi Anna,
Thanks for writing in! The two vests do have slightly different shapes. I would think that the Quilted Wool Vest would work well for a man as there is less shaping in the neck but either could work well. If you can, I would show both options to the recipient and see what he prefers!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi! I usually wash material before before I start a project, partly to “pre-shrink” and partly to remove any irritating factory residues. I see the wool is recommended as dry clean only, however, so I’m assuming I should forgo washing it before starting in. What are you thoughts? Would I run into trouble if I gently hand washed the double gauze, without washing the wool, in terms of potential stretching/shrinking later in the garment’s life?
Thank you and best!
Steve
Hi Steve,
Great question! For this pattern, you will not be washing the wool but feel free to wash and dry the lining fabric before cutting into it. This is not, strictly speaking, necessary as you will be dry cleaning the finished project when it needs to be cleaned. However, washing the lining fabric first will not have an adverse effect on the final product!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Love this gilet ,2 questions …will the lining be all flappy if not quilted to main fabric and batting .? Will it sit well ? When sewing on the snaps do you stitch them through the 3 pieces of fabric ,or just the lining ?
All the best and thank you for such a generous and life enhancing crafting website .
Mattie.
Hi Mattie,
Thanks for writing in! We find that the double gauze lining sits fine without quilting it and does not gape at all and site quite nicely! As to the snaps, we sewed threw the lining and caught the batting but did not go through the front piece of fabric as it would show on the finished item!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
So I’m probably just missing something, but I’ve looked and looked, and I don’t see any directions for the dimensions of the pockets. The pattern also says “you can use the Pocket Lines on the pattern piece as a guide” but I don’t see any pocket lines on the pattern piece anywhere. Am I just being dense? Or are the directions actually missing?
I have another question: I just finished printing out the pattern and taping it together and bottom edge of the back piece has the same contour as the front piece. The schematic above shows the back bottom should extend 3.5″, however, the pattern piece only extends 1.5″. I’m really new to sewing so this is throwing me for a loop. Am I doing something dumb or is the pattern not correct?
Hi Liz,
Thank you for writing in! It turns out that the incorrect template was linked. We apologize for the error. We have corrected the link and I am including the updated one (with the pocket) here for you: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Quilted_Wool_Vest.pdf
Best.
Cassy
hello! thanks purl soho for the great pattern(s)! and beautiful supplies!
has anyone tried this using the shashiko stitiching method – instead of quilting it? i have a linen version in mind … ?!
Hi Laura,
Thank you for your kind words! I have not seek a sashiko version of this vest but you could certainly do it! With wool it could be a challenge but with linen, it could be lovely! Having seen many sashiko quilted quilts, the effect is stunning!
Best,
Cassy
I love both of your quilted vest patterns. I want to make one for my husband. I wonder if you have drafted the pattern for me, or if I should try to modify the shoulders to make them wider?
Thanks,
Nancy
Hi Nancy,
Thanks for the question! These vests were drafted with straight sides and without darts in the bust and so should work for men as well. You may well want to lengthen the vest and to do so, I would measure an item of clothing that fits the intended recipient and take the length from that garment. You can then add length above the hem detail!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hello,
I would love sewing this quilted vest for me but as the Lana Cotta Canberra fabric seems to be no longer available, can you recommend another fabric for this project? I would love a warm and soft one. Thank you,
Catherine
Hi Catherine,
Thanks for reaching out! I would suggest using either Dorr Mill Wool Yardage or Robert Kaufman Shetland Flannel. If you choose the wool yardage, you can make it extra cozy by purchasing an extra 30% of yardage and machine washing it before sewing to felt the wool!
Best,
Julianna
Hi!
Thank you for your answer. I will certainly order the Dorr Mill Wool. Have you any recommendations concerning the felting process (hand or machine? Time/temperature?) for a good result. Thank you,
Catherine
Hi Catherine,
We have had great results from washing it in hot, rinsing it in cold, drying it for 20 minutes, and then pressing it flat before cutting and sewing. I’m sure you will love it!
Best,
Julianna
Thank you!
So I was wondering about drafting sleeves for this pattern to use it as a base for making a quilt coat. Would I need to move the armscye out farther to accommodate sleeves?
Hi Sashanna,
That’s a nice idea to add sleeves to this pattern! Unfortunately, such a big modification is currently beyond what we’re able to help with as it would take a lot of time and resources. I’m sorry that we aren’t able to help you to add sleeves to this vest, but what I can do is suggest another pattern as an alternative. I’d recommend checking out Grainline Studio’s Tamarack Jacket , which is a wonderful quilted coat that might be in line with what you’re envisioning for the vest.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
Zha Zha
Très jolie veste sans manches, superbe idée bravo, le matelassage (quilting) réussi … j’aime
Hi I’m a beginner sewer here, if I buy bias binding would it be single or double fold?
Thanks so much
Hi Alex,
Thanks for reaching out! For this project, we’d recommend double fold binding. That’s because the binding is visible on both the front and back of the vest, so it will need to fold over on both sides. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
This is an awesome pattern, thank you so very much for sharing it for free!!! I do have a question though, how do I add a few inches? It’s not quite large enough for me… if I add 2″at the back fold, and don’t snap the front would that work? The top would be OK as is but I have a larger tummy.
Thank you for the help!
Tammy
Hi Tammy,
Thanks for writing in, and we’re so sorry for the delay in replying! I wanted to check in with our design team about your question first to make sure we could offer you the best possible suggestion. They let me know that they recommend adding width in the following manner:
add 1/2 inch to each front piece at the side seams
add 1/2 inch to each side of the back piece at the side seams
You can even just extend the width at the bottom by slanting the side seams! That way you’ll have the original width at the top and the increased width at the bottom. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Just finished sewing this pattern. It was an easy sew but I made a few adjustments. Added bust darts, graded from a medium at top to large in the hips. One note, I think the pockets should be larger to fit a cellphone. If I made this again, I would make the pockets about 1-inch taller.
Thanks, Jan for the helpful recommendations. I was thinking of adding bust darts as well.
Am I missing something or are there no sizes on the pattern or the instructions? It would be helpful when cutting it out.
Hi Laurie,
Thank you for your question! You can find the sizes in the pattern template on pages 4 and 8. Once you identify which size you will be making, you can follow the same dotted pattern line all the way through. We recommend piecing the entire pattern together before cutting out your size. Please let us know if you have any more questions.
Happy making,
Gavriella