Boxy Tee Three Ways
A good friend of mine teases that when we go shopping she can guess what I will pick out before we even enter the store. “Anything that’s cut like a square or a rectangle,” she says. The thing is, she’s right! I always make a beeline for clean lines and simple silhouettes, and this usually means a box.
But boxy doesn’t have to mean boring or unflattering. When working with a shape this simple, it’s all about the details. A pop of color, a pretty side slit, and a well-shaped neckline make all the difference, turning a boring box into something worth wearing.
I made my Boxy Tees in Kiyohara’s lightweight and beautiful Fine Solids with fun, electric bursts of Michael Miller’s Neon Solids. Loose fitting and airy, but with all the right details, this Boxy Tee is just my style. And since I designed the pattern to mix and match three arm lengths, color blocks and a back tie detail, it can easily be just your style too!
When I showed my collection of tops to my good friend, the first thing she said was, “Oh! I want one!” Ha! Now I know just what she’s going to wear too! –Corinne
Update: New Sizing
JUNE 3, 2015
We’ve adjusted the width of the Sleeves for all versions to make a wider armhole and a roomier fit! All measurements in the pattern reflect this change.
Materials
For Version A
- 1¾ (1¾, 2, 2, 2) yards of Kiyohara’s Fine Solids, Grey
- ¼ yard of Michael Miller’s Neon Solids, Lemon
- A spool of Gutermann’s Cotton Thread, color 1040
- A spool of Mettler’s Neon Thread, Sour Apple
For Version B
- 1¾ (1¾, 2, 2, 2) yards of Kiyohara’s Fine Solids, Grey
- ½ yard of Michael Miller’s Neon Solids, Yellow
- A spool of Gutermann’s Cotton Thread, color 1040
- A spool of Mettler’s Neon Thread, Sour Apple
For Version C
- 2 (2, 2¼, 2¼, 2¼) yards of Kiyohara’s Fine Solids, Navy
- 2 yards Lacing, Neon Yellow
- A spool of Gutermann’s Cotton Thread, color 6250
For all versions, you will also need the Boxy Tee Neck templates available for free download here, printed and cut out.
Sizes
Notes
Prewash all fabrics before starting. If you are using Michael Miller’s Neon Solids, be sure that it is completely unfolded when you put in in the washing machine and wash it separately.
For the sake of clarity our instructional photos show a fabric with a clear right and wrong side. If you are working with the Kiyohara Fine Solids and Michael Miller Neon Solids, or similar fabrics which don’t have a clear right or wrong side, choose either side as the right side for the first seam and follow this precedent for all subsequent steps.
Pattern
Cut
Note: When cutting simple rectangular shapes for patterns such as this, straight, clean cuts are key. The best way to make these cuts is with a rotary cutter and a non-slip quilting ruler on a self-healing cutting mat. If you have limited experience using a rotary cutter, I recommend visiting our Rotary Cutting Tutorial.
Use the measurements in the chart below to cut 2 Shirt Tops, 2 Shirt Bottoms, and 2 Sleeves.
Use the charts below for help with the layout of the pieces on the fabric.
Version A
Version B
Version C
Fold one of the Shirt Top pieces in half, lining up its two short sides.
Place the prepared Back Neck template on the fold of one of the Shirt Top pieces, lining up the top edge of the template with the raw edge of the fabric. Cut along the dotted lines. This is now the Back.
Repeat with the second Shirt Top and the Front Neck template. This is now the Front.
Piece the Back and Front
Lay out the Back with the wrong side facing up and the long straight edge at the top. Place a Shirt Bottom piece on top with the right side facing up, lining up one long side of the Bottom with the top edge of the Back. Pin in place.
Sew along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Fold over at the seam so that the right sides are now facing and press. Pin along the fold. Sew along the pinned edge with a ½-inch seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance toward the Shirt Bottom.
Repeat with the Front and the second Shirt Bottom piece.
Sew the Shoulder Seams
Lay out the Back with the wrong side facing up and the Neck opening at the top.
With the right side facing up and the Neck opening at the top, place the Front on top of the Back. Line up all the straight edges.
Pin along the two top straight edges. Sew along these pinned edges with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Fold the garment at the seams so that the right sides are facing. Press flat and pin along the folds. Sew across the pinned edges with a ½-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
This is the Shoulder Seam.
Press the seam allowance toward the Back. Sew the Shoulder Seam hems down with an edgestich. At the Neck edge of the Shoulder Seam, sew past the end of the hem until you reach the raw edge of the Neck.
This is now the Body.
Attach the Sleeves
NOTE: The 15 (15 ½, 16, 16 ½, 17)–inch side of the Sleeve is the Shoulder Edge.
Fold each Sleeve in half at the center of the Shoulder Edge, press to create a crease and then unfold.
With wrong sides together, pin the Shoulder Edge of one Sleeve to a raw shoulder edge of the Body, lining up the center crease of the Sleeve with the Shoulder Seam (be sure to line up with the Shoulder Seam, not with the edgestitch).
Starting ¼ inch before the Sleeve and ending ¼ inch after, sew along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Make a ¼-inch cut into the Front and Back pieces at the edges of the Sleeve. Do not cut past the seam line.
Now, fold the garment at this seam so that the right side of the Sleeve is facing the right side of the Body. Press this fold flat and pin.
Sew with a ½-inch seam allowance.
Unfold the garment and press the seam toward the Sleeve.
Repeat with the second Sleeve on the other side of the Body.
This is now the Shirt.
Attach the Back Tie (Version C)
For Version C you will attach a Back Tie. If you are working on Versions A or B, skip this step and continue on to Sew the Side Seams.
Cut the cord into two pieces at least 25 inches each.
Tie a knot at one end of each cord. At the other end, lightly singe the cut edge with the flame from a lighter or a match. This will seal the threads and prevent fraying.
Lay the Shirt out flat with the right side of the Back facing up. Line up the singed end of a piece of cording to the raw side edge of the Shirt, 11 1/2 (11 3/4, 12, 12 1/4, 12 1/2) inches down from the Shoulder Seam. Pin in place.
Sew the cording to the Shirt with a ½-inch seam allowance.
Repeat with the second piece of cording on the other side edge of the Shirt.
Sew the Side Seams (All Versions)
With the wrong side facing out, fold the Shirt at the Shoulder Seams so that the raw edges of the Sleeves, as well as the long sides and bottom edges of the Front and Back, meet.
Pin all the sleeve and side seams, making sure the Front and Back Shirt Bottom seams line up.
At one side edge. measure 4 inches up from the Shirt’s bottom and mark with a double pin. Repeat on the other side edge.
In the underarm, measure ¼ up from the raw edge of the Sleeve and 1 ¼ inches in from the raw edge of the Body. Make a small mark. Repeat on the other side.
Starting from the end of one Sleeve and working toward the underarm, sew along the pinned edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Right before you reach the mark you made in the previous step, backstitch, then insert the needle and pivot the Shirt. Backstitch again and continue to sew down the side of the Body with a 1 ¼-inch seam allowance.
When you reach the spot marked with a double pin, end the seam with a backstitch. The unsewn space at the bottom of the Shirt will become the Side Slit.
Repeat on the other side.
Make a cut into the seam allowance of one side of the Body: start at the raw edge directly across from the end of the side seam and cut diagonally up, ending ¼-inch before the seam line.
Make a small, horizontal snip into the seam allowance at the end of the diagonal cut, making sure not to cut past the seam line. Trim the remaining seam allowance of the side and sleeve seams to ¼ inch. Repeat on the other side.
Cut a small notch into the underarm, making sure not to cut past the seam line.
Repeat on the other side.
Sew along the trimmed seam allowances of the side seams with a zigzag stitch. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seams. Repeat with the sleeve seams.
Hem
Fold the bottom edge of the Shirt Front up ½ inch towards the wrong side and press. Now, fold the edge up 1 inch towards the wrong side, press and pin. Sew the hem down with an edgestitch.
Repeat with the Shirt Back.
Sew the Side Slit
Following the line of the side seam, press open the two flaps at the Side Slit so that their wrong sides face the Body’s wrong side.
Fold the raw edges of the two flaps in towards the wrong side so that the raw edges meet the creases. Press flat. Sew the folds down with an edgestitch.
Repeat on the other side.
Hem the Sleeves
Fold the raw edge of one of the Sleeves in ½ inch towards the wrong side and press. Now, fold the edge in 1 inch towards the wrong side, press and pin. Sew the hem down with an edgestitch.
Repeat with the other Sleeve.
Finish the Neck
Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press. Unfold.
Fold the bias strip in half widthwise with right sides together so that the two short sides meet. Sew along the short side with a ½-inch seam allowance. Press the seam open and refold the strip along the lengthwise crease.
Pin the bias strip to the right side of the Shirt, lining up the two raw edges of the bias strip with the raw neck edge of the Shirt and the seam of the bias strip with one Shoulder Seam of the Shirt
Sew the strip to the neck edge with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Fold the bias strip to the wrong side of the Shirt along the seam line, press and pin. Sew the strip down with a ¼-inch seam allowance.
It’s all done and ready to wear!
Update 2024: You can explore our current collection of beautiful fabrics and supplies on our page of Sewing Tools + Notions!
thanks ! I think I may make this one day
!
Yay! I love that someone finally came up with a formula and method for this sort of top! I love boxy tops too! Thank you so much!
Any chance we can see what it looks like on a person? They're beautiful on the hanger but I'm wondering if they'll fit me nicely.
These tops are beautiful!! I think I am going to make them in jersey or linen with a touch of stretch – thank you for the very clear patterns!
I adore boxy tops! Can't wait to make one!
Bravo! This was quite the undertaking! Would love to see the top on a body if you have a willing model. Just so excited to see the sewn garments showing up here more often. Woot!
Hi there,
Just perfect. Thank you so much. I love a boxy top too!
I love the projects on the blog, including this one, but I am always reluctant to take on a sewing or knitting project when I can't see it being worn. What looks lovely on a hanger doesn't always look very good on a person. I wish you would post photos of these garments on people!
Can you tell us more about, or give measurements for, the neck opening cut outs? The photo is helpful, but I'd just love more details about how to size those cut outs. Thanks so much!
It's coming up to winter here in Australia and this is just the thing to pop over long sleeved t-shirts with a cosy scarf at my neck. I'll try for a heavier weight material.
I love this! I would like to see someone wearing the tee because I am a bit insecure if its something for me (small bust and wide shoulders).. Do you have a flickr group?
Gosto muito do seu trabalho. Vou fazer uma dessas para mim. Amei!
Hi Anne-
We don't have any shots of this on someone at the moment be we will try to get a pic on a person and post it on Instagram or Facebook in the next week or so. Thank you!
Molly
Hi Pam-
The neck templates are available for free download directly above the "pattern" and "finished measurements" section of this pattern.
Thank you!
Molly
Just the right thing for the summer. Love it
Hello to everyone who wanted to see this project being worn-
We just put up shots of version B and C on a mannequin on Instagram! You can see them here:
http://instagram.com/p/nquN_fjhU5/
and here:
http://instagram.com/p/nquD2DDhUo/
Thanks for writing in!
Molly
Thank you for the wonderful photos and instructions.
This is perfect for summer, thanks so much, right now I can't find a tee shirt with sleeves longer than my arm pit. This is nice, cool and stylish!
Your the best!
Vicki
Great design. I love all the little details (french seams) that give this a nice polished finish. I have finished my first one and am halfway through my second.
Thanks for the great free pattern!!
Hi everyone! I just made Version C in a soft, drapey double cotton and I LOVE it. I am NOT actually a fan of boxy tops but this one spoke to me and I adore the fit. I made the small (I am 5'6", 120 lbs) and it fits perfectly. Much less voluminous than I anticipated and for which I am grateful, also shorter than I thought. I would consider adding some length next time, though I admit I have a longer than average torso. I will definitely be making more, soon!
I still need to put on the neck binding and once I do, if I can figure out how, I will post a picture of me wearing it.
Thanks again Purl Bee for another brilliant, elegant, simple project.
For those who wanted photos, here's my first attempt, with some pintucks (?) in the back for a little shaping: https://www.flickr.com/photos/danzfool/14253252435/. I think I'll also add the ties from version 3. I used more fabrics than suggested, but really like the patchwork look that resulted, and the way it enabled me to use up some pretty quilting scraps.
For my next attempt, I think I'll plan on the version C ties off the bat and drop the neck a tad. Otherwise, a great use of rectangles! So exciting to have a fairly quick, finished project *for myself*!!
I made this today and it was so easy with your instructions! I managed to finally use up some scraps of lovely material that I've had for years and for which have never found the right project!
I'm a UK size 10 and I used the small size dimensions and it fits great. I made the short sleeved version (as I only had just enough of the material) although I suit/prefer a longer sleeve normally. Once made, the sleeves reached to mid-humerus anyway- so it was perfect.
I always find bias tape a bit of a nightmare to get right and so I finished off the neckline before sewing up the sides as it gave me more room to manoeuvre . I also hemmed the sleeves with the tape to match.
I learned a lot on this project and I'm really pleased- can't wait to try a different version!
Happy sewing everyone, Gail
Hi, a quick follow-up comment on the tie variation. I think the instructions are a little confusing/out of step with the design. The first time I made this shirt, I initially didn't add the tie, so I had to go back, open up that part of the side seams and sew the ties in. When doing that, singing the end of the cord made sense.
However, when I tried a second shirt for which I added the ties before sewing the side seams, the instructions didn't jive with sewing the side seam 1 1/4" in. If I attach the tie — as directed — so close to the raw edge, I'm going to end up cutting off both the singed end and the initial point of attachment when I trim the 3/4" to 1" of the raw edge off later. So, at a minimum, I think it's safe to not singe the end and just assume you'll zigzag over it along with the trimmed raw edge. Otherwise, I think you should pin the ties 3/4-1" in from the uncut raw edge. Does that make sense?
Hoping to post a picture of version 2 soon. 🙂
Hi danzfool –
Thank you for writing in. I'm so glad you like the project – and enough to make it twice! The first top you made looks great!
It is true that the singed end of the cording and initial stitch line get cut off in later steps as you point out, but this was a conscious decision in the pattern making process. The end of the cord is aligned with the raw edge of the garment for simplicity in the pattern, and the initial stitch line is meant only as a tacking stitch, to eliminate the bulk of an extra pin in this spot. As you point out, the side seam and zigzag stitch in later steps will finish the edge of the cord, so there is no issue with these pieces getting trimmed off.
That said, the construction methods that you suggest sound like they would also work well, though I would recommend that you still singe the end of the cord. My experience with this cording is that if frays quite quickly and I would hate for it to start unravelling before you've had a chance to sew it down!
Looking forward to seeing version 2!
-Corinne
Corinne, thanks for the explanation. I'm a little obsessed with this pattern, in case you can't tell. 🙂 Last night I finally finished changes to version #2: https://www.flickr.com/photos/danzfool/14434959931/in/photostream/. Later this week I hope to try version #3, with no bottom section and some Liberty fabric I originally intended for one of PurlBee's scarf patterns.
I just made this top and it came out great. The only issue for me is that the sleeves seem to fit too closely under my arm. I think this problem could be resolved, though, by lengthening the sleeve piece.
I finally finished version #3 with a couple classic Liberty prints. This might be my favorite version so far: https://www.flickr.com/photos/danzfool/14614935305/in/photostream/. Corinne, thanks to all this practice, I felt brave enough to try my first shaped blouse by adapting a vintage dress pattern that I had already created a muslin for. It turned out great! (Picture forthcoming.) Thanks for sharing such an inspiring pattern.
Hi Danzfool-
Thanks so much for sharing this picture and for your kind words about the pattern. It looks great!!!
Best-
Molly
As a quick update on this pattern, having now made three versions: the underarm seam can be very prone to tearing if you stretch the wrong way. I would recommend reinforcing it — and because the sleeve also ends up being somewhat narrow, it probably wouldn’t hurt to widen the sleeve pieces 1-2″ overall.
Love this top, if I wear a large in a tee shirt would I make this in a large ??? Just wondering if the pattern runs true to size….Thank’s
Hi Kathy-
The best way to determine which size to make is to look at the finished measurements under the “Sizes” headline.
Please let us know if you have any more questions.
Thanks!
Molly
this is just brilliant! I have some fabric arriving in the near future and your tutorial is perfect for guiding me through making my first top. Thanks for taking the time to be so painstaking and methodical – it will really, really help me avoid making newbie mistakes.
Do you think this would work in a heavily sequinned fabric? I am trying to find a boxy top pattern to make a top for a special occasion. It is to go with a long black tuille skirt. I want to wear the top loosely on the outside of the skirt. I am prepared to sew it by hand due to the sequins.
Hi Anna-Lena-
I think this top would be lovely in a sequined fabric!Sounds like it will be a beautiful outfit.
You may need to alter some of the construction of the Shirt to accommodate the bulk of the fabric (i.e. eliminating the French seams and modifying the side slits).I recommend using a scrap fabric to make a sample of the Shirt first to become familiar with the pattern. This will help you to determine what will and won’t work with the sequins.
I hope this helps!
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
-Corinne
I just made my first boxy tee… I did it in some leftover fabric (and will just wear it around the house) as a test run before committing good fabric to it… I’m a little big-busted, so sometimes boxy tops without darts don’t sit right on me – this one does !
But, as noted by someone above, the sleeves/armholes are quite narrow – even though I kept my large-size mid-length sleeves after cutting the body down to medium size… definitely recommend wider sleeves, especially if a little broad-shouldered, not-ultra-skinny armed…
So now onto making it in my good material !
I just made a muslin version before moving onto my more exciting floral version and I am super super excited about it! I love all of the nice finishings and that this isn’t just some “sew a few seams and leave them there” kind of project. Just a couple of notes (as I sit here wearing it)…
I would like to agree that the sleeves/armpit area are a little tight (I’m a US 12 and made the large… although I’ve got largish arms). I think I’m going to add 2 or 3 inches to the length of the sleeve for the real deal. I also made a mistake when cutting the head hole for the front and cut on the wrong side. However! I trimmed it up and now I’m kind of thrilled about the high low thing going on (the back is now about an inch and a half longer). I think it adds an extra special touch. Really, I am so excited to make the final version! Thanks for putting this together!
I recently made version C using 100 % cotton fabric. The instructions were very clear and easy to follow but I am leaving a note because like others I found the armpits very snug. If I made this again I would add another 2 inches to the sleeve width where it joins the shirt. Apart from the armpit issue, the rest of the size (width, length) was fine.
Hi Jana –
Thank you for your comment!
Thanks to all the wonderful feedback we’ve received on this pattern, we’ve adjusted the sizing of the Shirt to include a wider armhole. An additional 1 1/2 inch has been added to the width of the Sleeves for all versions. All measurements in the pattern now reflect this change.
Thanks!
-Corinne
PS Sorry, meant to say the neck template didn’t have a gauge like many of your other patterns to ensure it is printed at the correct size. Might be worth adding. Thanks
Hi Jana –
Another great suggestion! Thank you for pointing this out! We will be sure to adjust the PDF.
Thanks!
-Corinne
I am wearing my Boxy Tee for the first time today! Thank you everyone for the sleeve width suggestions. I wear an XL (US size 18) and after making up a muslin I thought the shoulders were too tight. I widened the sleeves 3″ and it fit great. I’m not even sure which version I made – I had 3/4 sleeves but ended up cutting them shorter (they hit just at the elbow). I bought a flowery patterned fabric, so I wasn’t going to mess with trying to find a contrasting fabric (it’s a lightweight patterned denim). I want to make more of these!
My only complaint is that the bias tape was not wide enough. After I sewed it on and turned it over – sew with 1/4″ seam allowance? I only had 1/4″ left! I stitched it down with a triple zig-zag stitch.
By the way I am new to sewing and this is my first attempt at a garment. Very easy.
I posted a pic on Twitter: https://twitter.com/klisaanne/status/618399378471002113
What a great pattern, it was so clear and easy to follow. I used my contrast colour for the bias binding too. I made it up in an evening and it looks great on. Thank you!
I also had an issue with the bias binding being too narrow. The pattern is otherwise very forgiving to the clumsy or inexperienced or both(like me.) But as Tim Gunn would say, I made it work. Any reason not to cut a wider strip if I make it again, say, two inches? Thanks for the great pattern.
Hi Suzi –
Thanks for writing in. I’m so glad you liked the pattern! You could absolutely size the bias strip up to 2 inches with no problem at all.
I hope this helps!
-Corinne
I love this! Made it with Cloud 9 organic double gauze. Very soft and comfy. Going to try a knit next. Thank you…another beautiful, satisfying pattern.
Thanks! Your design is as neat on the inside as on the out. I enjoyed making the blouse.
I would like to know how much fabric version C would use with some wider fabrics, say 54″ fabric? For the size 40-43. Thanks!
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for writing us. For this size in version C you’ll need at least 56″ wide fabric to buy less yardage. With a 54″ wide fabric you’ll use the same yardage required because you won’t be able to cut your front and back along the same width. However, if you wanted to cut the shirt bottom on the cross grain, you could probably get away with less yardage for a 54″ fabric. If you have a 56″ wide or wider fabric, you’ll need approximately 1.5 yards.
All the best,
Adam
Love the looks of this top. I just purchased some lovely softened linen and have been looking around for patterns to best use it with for upcoming summer days.
Not to sound dense, but… If I’m doing version C (no contrast fabric), why do I need to do a bottom piece? Why not just cut the front and back longer to start with?
Hi Robin,
Thanks for writing in! We are using the bottom piece as a design element for this lovely top. So even if you are not choosing to use a contrast color, we like the look of the additional seam. You can certainly omit it if you would like. Simply extend the top and bottom pieces down the length of the bottom piece being sure to omit the seam allowances for sewing the bottom to the top from the overall measurement.
Happy sewing!
Cassy
Hello! As a beginning sewer, this has been my favorite top to sew. I’ve tried so many small variations, and each time I love the pattern more and learn more tricks to add to my sewing skills!
Question: is there a way to also French seam the sides? I have tried this (so that both the sleeve and sides are French), but I always end up with puckering in the underarm despite techniques to avoid it, like cutting a small notch. It is essentially a French seam within a French seam. Is this not possible? Open to advice and ideas! Thank you!
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! Sewing French seams at the side is tricky at best. While we love the look and feel of the French seem, at the sides, I would not recommend it as the meeting of the sleeve to the body is challenging as well as making accommodation for the bottom side slit. You could try folding the side seems under themselves and top stitching along them just to the under arm but I suspect that this could get quite fussy as well.
I am sorry that I could not be of more help!
Cassy
Hi!
I’d like to buy this pattern, but i cant find the link anywhere!
Is it still available?
Ari
Hi Ari,
Thanks for writing in! Good news! This is a free pattern! All of the directions on how to make them can be found above, with the printable pattern linked in the Materials section. I am also including the link for you here: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/purl_bee_boxy_tee_v2.pdf
I hope that this helps and happy sewing!
Cassy
Hi Cassy!
I clicked on the link in the materials section and also in your comment above, but the PDF only has one page with the front neck and back neck pieces… it’s missing everything else! I would love to make this top–can someone update the pattern so that it has all the pieces? Thank you!!
Hi Windy,
Thanks for writing in! This lovely pattern is not a typical tissue pattern but rather is a series of rectangles! The templates provided are there just to cut the neck pieces from the rectangles listed. Please check above under the Pattern section for the cutting guide and an image showing you how to use the templates once the rectangles are all cut!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Thank you! I just finished my first body shirt….had been looking for the perfect pattern for ages and this is it! Brilliant instructions and photos 🙂
Hi Lindsay!
Thank you for your kind words! We are so happy to hear you enjoyed your project!
Best,
Carly
I love the look of this! However, I can’t seem to find the pattern anywhere?
Hello Daniella,
Thank you for reaching out! This is a free pattern and can be printed or downloaded by following these directions; If you’re on a desktop version of the site, you will find a “print” icon in the right column just below the date and tags. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a “print” icon below the pattern and above the comments.
Follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save. For example, you may decide to shorten the pattern by omitting certain images or the list of materials. To remove images, click the drop down next to the image icon and change from 100% to 0%.
I hope this helps and happy sewing!
-Marilla
Hello Purl Bee! Once again you’ve created a wonderful pattern and easy to follow directions and photos! This was my first garment I’ve sown for myself as an adult, and it was wonderful! I so appreciate you sharing free patterns and I have learned to sew after a 10 year hiatus because of your site.
That being said, this pattern is a bit tricky. I have slim arms, and I’m a small or medium shirt size. I still found the sleeves to be snug at the armpits. It’s not impossible or completely awful to wear, just a bit tight. I will follow the advice of other commenters and add an extra inch on my next attempt.
I also had a huge amount of difficulty with the neck. After sewing the 1/4″ seam allowance, there wasn’t enough left to fold over and complete the neck. I ended up doing my best to rescue the garment by sewing a new wider bias strip on top of the previous one, sandwiching the failure and top stitching it in place. It is still a lovely top and I enjoy wearing it, I just learned a lot and will cut a wider bias strip next time 🙂
Hello Stephanie,
Thank you for writing- It is so exciting that you have rediscovered sewing!
It is so useful for us and our sewing community to have you share your experience with this pattern.
Warmly,
Marilla
Thank you so much for this pattern! I made version B in flannel and it turned out lovely.
Hello,
I have just found this great pattern and have read the comments above regarding the sleeve width needing to be wider. Can you tell me whether the measurements in the “All Measurements” section, giving version B, the middle size, 36-39 sleeve as 16″x11½ ” reflects the amended size or do I still need to increase the width by another 1½” -2″. Many thanks.
Hello Judy,
Thank you fir reaching out! We added 1 1/2 inches to the width of the Sleeves for all versions to make a wider armhole and roomier fit.
Happy sewing,
Marilla
Hi
Is the Boxy Tee a free pattern or are on;y the neck pieces that are free?
I can’t find the pattern anywhere. Lol am I being a goof ball?
Regards
Jayne
Hi Jayne,
Thanks for reaching out! I am happy to help! This is not a traditional tissue pattern but rather comes with a cut list of simple rectangles that appear above directly under the “PATTERN” heading. The printable neck pieces then allow you to cut the neck holes out of the front and back pieces that you have cut!
I hope that this clears things up!
Cassy
Hi Cassy,
I have the same question. I downloaded the .pdf pattern file, and the diagram and cutting sizes for all the pieces are there, but there are no neck pattern pieces to print. Where do I find those?
Hi and thanks for reaching out! The link to the neck templates can be found immediately above the size chart above, or by clicking right here!
Best,
Julianna
I love this shirt! I just finished my first one and am a little stumped. The corner f the armpit seams appears to be puckering a little when turned right side out. It’s not the end of the world, but as a newbie to clothing sewing I’d love to know what I did wrong!
Hi Jane,
Thanks for reaching out! I suspect that you may not have cut a deep enough notch in the underarm after sewing the side seams of the shirt. It’s a bit scary, but you do have to get that notch right up to the stitching line for the underarm corner to turn out nicely! You might also find that thoroughly pressing this area, using either a tailor’s ham or a rolled up towel to shape the underarm, will result in a much tidier seam.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
*center sleever with shoulder seam, not edgestitch* OK easy enough…. *centers seam with edgestitch still*???? thinking ill still continue sewing with directions as follows then chop the bit that’s longer on the front of the blouse since I did it wrong….. At least it was on fabric that wasn’t a big deal sigh…. Like how dumb can you be? ? I always make the dumbest mistakes sewing. I’m still a newb and I’ll be doing so well then mess it up towards the end… ?
Any chance you sell already made designs like this?
Hi Cassie,
Thanks for writing in! We don’t sell ready-to-wear items, but if you are interested in learning to sew, we carry everything you need to make your own, and you can find many handy tutorials on our website!
Best,
Julianna
I have decided to learn how to sew on my wife’s machine. I made a mask, then this shirt for my wife. Second thing I’ve ever made. It fits well and she LOVES it! Thank you SO much for making this so simple and free. It has made me brave enough to try something more advanced.
I just took it very slow and carefully over 2 days. That neck bias was murder, for me. I was so sure I was reading it wrong, until it clicked – folded in half leaves 3/4 inch, which gives 3 quarters… just enough… just barely enough. You have to be pretty good to hit right on 1/4″, I think.
Fun stuff in a time of not fun stuff. Thanks, again. You ROCK! \m/
So cool to read about your sewing adventure, Raymond.
Way to go. And…keep going. Sewing and tailoring is fun!
I wish there was an option to upload my picture because the top turned out so much cuter than I thought. I thought it was going to be super huge just based on the way it looked, but I kept on sewing. I didn’t quite understand the French seams at first, but then had an aha moment. I made contrasting sleeves and did not do the side slits; used the sleeve material for the bias tape facing and left the print sticking out a bit. I can definitely see many options for this top esp. since it only took 2 hours to sew!
Hi Ruma,
Thanks for writing in and letting us know how well your top went! We love seeing our customers’ finished projects, so you can always email us at [email protected] or tag us on Instagram with #purlsoho and #purlsohobusyhands!
All the best,
Julianna
Do you have other fabric you would recommend now since the Kioyara’s and Neon Solids are out of stock?
Thanks!
Hi Dorothy,
Thanks for writing in! I would go with any lightweight drapey fabric, such as Handkerchief Linen, Watercolor Linen, or Liberty Tana Lawn Classics, Seasonals, or Plain Dyed! I’m afraid we don’t carry any neon colored fabrics at this time, but hopefully you can find a contrast color that you like from these selections!
Best,
Julianna
Just finished my second for my sister and about to start a third. She loves this top but can’t sew. She thinks I am so clever making this stylish top for her. I’m not going to let her know it’s a great pattern with great instructions. Thanks so much!
Hi Michele,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! That is such a sweet and thoughtful gift! I am so glad to hear that you love this pattern and the finished Tee!
Warmly,
Gianna
I made the top today, but it was a huge struggle to get my arms through the sleeves. When I took it off, the armpit ripped. Do I need to make wider sleeves? Or is there another fix that I’m missing? It looked so cute on, and I’m hoping I can fix it!
Hi Bex,
Thanks for reaching out! It sounds to me that the arms may be a bit small, the best solution may be to make the sleeves wider! How did the top fit at the underarm seam?
All the best,
Gianna
Are there measurements for this shirt to fit a child?
Hi Claudette,
Thanks for writing in! At this time we don’t currently have this pattern available in children’s sizes but thank you for expressing your interest! I will be sure to pass this along to the rest of the team.
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there
Great pattern. Thanks! I’m confused by version C though. It seems like it is cut as one piece – there is no horizontal seam for the bottom piece as there is in Version A & B, which would make sense since it’s not needed. Did you just add the length of the bottom piece to the shirt top and bottom and cut it as one?
Hi Nicole,
Thanks for reaching out! Version C also has the same Bottom Piece as the other two versions (see CUT VERSION C) it just is hard to tell from the photos since it is shown in a darker color and without a contrasting color like Version B!
I hope this clears things up!
Gianna
Such a cute pattern for a hot weather cotton shirt. I wish you had the pattern in plus sizes! Any suggestions on how to increase your pattern to fit us “fluffy” people?
Hi Krista,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m glad to hear that this pattern has caught your eye! We completely understand the importance of offering a wider range of sizes, and we now take that into account in all of our more recent patterns. For this pattern though, you should definitely be able to modify it! The shirt is formed completely out of rectangular pieces, so I’d recommend increasing the measurements/altering the dimensions of those so that they’ll better fit your body. If you’d like more specific help with those calculations though, let us know!
All the best,
Lili
love the clarity of each step in this tutorial. thank you for keeping these projects live