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Lace Columns Wrap
Like the sun glinting through the columns of the Parthenon, our Lace Columns Wrap pattern in Tussock celebrates graceful lines and classical harmony.
A pattern of yarn-over increases paired with simple decreases create the airy spaces that define the Lace Columns Wrap. These open windows highlight how it’s often the space between where color and light have room to play.
The luminosity comes from our Tussock yarn, a mix of 60% super fine kid mohair and 40% mulberry silk. Light glistens off the silk and filters through the oh-so-soft mohair, illuminating every stitch. Achieve a unique depth of color by knitting together two strands of different but related shades… We chose Golden Lichen and Desert Dune for a radiant glow!
Pick colors that shine for you, three skeins of each color for a Lace Columns Wrap, or just two each for a narrower scarf version… Either way, a soft echo of classical beauty!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 55 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Jake Canton. Click here to see even more of Jake’s designs!
Story written by Andrea Lotz for Purl Soho.
Want to print this pattern? On desktop, find the “print” icon in the right margin, and on mobile, scroll to the end of the pattern for it. Use the on-screen instructions to remove anything you don’t want to print!
Materials
- Purl Soho’s Tussock, 60% super fine kid mohair and 40% silk. Each skein of this lace-weight yarn is 328 yards/ 25 grams.
- Color A: 2 (3) skeins; approximately 355 (700) total yards required. We used the color Desert Dune.
- Color B: 2 (3) skeins; approximately 355 (700) total yards required. We used the color Golden Lichen.
- US 5 (3.75 mm), straight or 24-inch circular needles
GAUGE
19 stitches and 27 rows = 4 inches in stitch pattern, holding Colors A and B together
SIZES
Scarf (Wrap)
Finished Dimensions: 8¾ (17¼) inches wide x 70 inches long
Sample: We knit the Wrap size.
NOTES
STITCH MULTIPLE
This pattern is worked over a multiple of 8 + 2 stitches.
PATTERN
Holding Color A and Color B together, loosely cast on 42 (82) stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): K1, p1, knit to last 2 stitches, p1, k1.
Row 1 (right side): K2, p1, *k4, knit 2 together (k2tog), [yarn over (yo)] 2 times, slip slip knit (ssk), repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k4, p1, k2.
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, p1, k1, p5, *[k1, p1] into 2 yo’s from previous row, p6, repeat from * to last 10 stitches (2 yo’s from previous row count as two stitches), [k1, p1] into 2 yo’s from previous row, p5, k1, p1, k1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until piece measures 70 inches from cast-on edge, ending with Row 1.
Next Row (wrong side): K1, p1, *k6, [k1, p1] into 2 yo’s from previous row, repeat from * to last 8 stitches, k6, p1, k1.
With right side facing you, bind off knitwise.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and gently wet block to finished dimensions.
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho. We can’t wait to see what you make!
LEARN ABOUT TUSSOCK + ALL OUR BEAUTIFUL YARNS
Tussock is impossible to replace! Spun and dyed in Japan, it is 60% super fine kid mohair, the softest quality there is, plus 40% silk, which is much more than most mohair-silk blends and makes for a super lustrous yarn. A fine lace-weight yarn, Tussock’s mohair blooms so beautifully that we prefer to knit it anywhere from a fingering- to worsted-weight gauge—either alone on US 3-8 needles, doubled, or alongside other yarns for plumping up a companion or deepening its complexity. Choose from gorgeous solid and variegated colors inspired by juicy, ripe berries and mimosas in bloom, lapping waters and zippy wildflowers… Pure joy!
More Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our collection of (mostly free!) Tussock knitting patterns and cast on!
More Lace-Weight Yarns + Fingering-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of lace-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial, our Yarn Substitution article, and our Complete Guide To Yarn for lots of helpful information.
More Yarns With Similar Fibers
- Shop mohair yarn (Soft, warm, and glowing, learn more about this beautiful natural fiber in our guide to knitting with mohair yarn!)
- Shop silk yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our knitting patterns (including tons of free knitting patterns) and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 55 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 1,000s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Hello,
There is no video for : [k1, p1] into 2 yo’s from previous row.
Is it possible to explain how to do this?
Thank you.
Hi Hélène,
Thanks for reaching out. After you’ve worked the 2 yarn overs on Row 1, you’ll end up with 2 loops on your left needle at this point on Row 2. You can treat these loops as if they’re 2 stitches and knit into one loop and then purl into the second. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
I like the looks of this pattern and am interested in expanding it to a throw. Can I double the width and add 8 stitches? Does that sound about right? I’d love to use the lighter lucky green and try to pair it with a blue. Do you have a suggestion as to which shade blue would be best? Thanks for your thoughts!
Hi Joy,
Thanks for reaching out. The most accurate way to expand the pattern is by first, knitting a gauge swatch! Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width that you would like and cast on the nearest multiple of 8 + 2. As for colors, I think that Lucky Green would go nicely with Cerulean Sea or Blue Fjord!
All the best,
Lili
Please be more clear on this instruction: [k1, p1] into 2 yo’s from previous row,
Thank you.
Hi Bill,
Thanks for writing in. After you’ve worked the 2 yarn overs on Row 1, you’ll end up with 2 loops on your left needle at this point on Row 2. You can treat these loops as if they’re 2 stitches and knit into one loop and then purl into the second. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
On row 1 are the (2) knit two together (2) yarn overs and (2) slip slip knits actual stitches or explanations of abbreviations
Hi Vickie,
Thanks for writing in. In Row 1, we have indeed written out explanations of the abbreviations! Written plainly, Row 1 would look like this:
Row 1: K2, p1, *k4, k2tog, [yo] 2 times, ssk, repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k4, p1, k2.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Just want to say, you are the most beautiful people with the most lovely knitted items, thank you for sharing your pattern which makes me feel so special!
I got it! Finally
Hello. My comment is in reading the instructions, in Row 2 if you repeat the work up to the last 9 stitches and next treat the 2 yarn overs as 2 stitches by k1, p1, then p5, k1, p1, k1, that equals 10 stitches instead of 9 stitches. Where am I going wrong?
Hi Adrian,
Thank you for commenting! In Row 2, the two yarn overs from the previous row combine to form one large stitch into which [K1, P1] is worked once, therefore there are 9 stitches at the end of the row. [K1, P1] counts as one stitch in this case.
I hope this clears things up!
Best,
Margaret
I am now more confused that ever by “one large stitch.” You work the two yo stitches as if they were one stitch, knitting and purling into that one stitch? Or work each of the two yo stitches as one stitch, knitting one and purling one?
Okay… read the comment below and it makes sense again. Thank you!
Glad to hear that this step makes sense now!
All the best,
Lili
Maybe I’m reading wrong. End of row 2, last 9 stitches. Doesn’t that add up to ten?
[k1, p1] into 2 yo’s from previous row, p5, k1, p1, k1.
Row 2 (wrong side): K1, p1, k1, p5, *[k1, p1] into 2 yo’s from previous row, p6, repeat from * to last 9 stitches, [k1, p1] into 2 yo’s from previous row, p5, k1, p1, k1.
Hi Michele,
Thank you so much for your comment. We have looked into this and decided to adjust the pattern for clarity by changing Row 2 to now read: “…repeat from * to last 10 stitches.” You are absolutely right, [K1, P1] worked into the previous row’s 2 yarn overs makes much more sense to count as two stitches and not one. Thank you for helping us improve our patterns!
All the best,
Margaret
Castin on 42 (82) stitches. How many are we casting on? 42 or 82?
Hi J,
Thanks for reaching out. If you’re making the scarf size, then you’ll need to cast on 42 stitches, but if you’re making the wrap, then cast on 82! Hope this clarifies things.
All the best,
Lili
I’m confused about row one. I’m starting the wrap with 82 stitches. Row 1 (right side): K2, p1, *k4, knit 2 together (k2tog), [yarn over (yo)] 2 times, slip slip knit (ssk), repeat from * to last 7 stitches, k4, p1, k2.
The pattern includes using 10 stitches. The first 4 knit. 2 stitches together. 2 yarn overs. 2 for slip. If I repeat that 7 times that’s 70 stitches. With the k2,p1 at the beginning. (3 stitches) and 7 at the end. That’s leaves me with 2 leftover stitches. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Pamela,
Thanks for reaching out. It looks like you’re counting the k2tog and ssk decreases as 2 stitches, rather than just 1! The pattern repeat consists of only 8 stitches:
k4 – 4 stitches
k2tog – 1 stitch
yo 2 times – 2 stitches
ssk – 1 stitch
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Even if you count those two stitches (2tog) and (ssk) as 1 stitch each I end up with 2 extra stitches at the end. The math works but since you’re using 2 loops for each of those stitches it’s still 10 loops. Make any sense? The pattern decreases by two stitches but adds 2 right? So there is always 10 loops in the pattern. I must be doing something wrong.
Hi Pamela,
Each pattern repeat will always start with 8 stitches and end with 8 stitches after each row! You’re right that the decrease stitches both begin with 2 stitches each, but you’re also adding 2 loops from the 2 yarn overs. So 8 stitches, minus 2 from the decreases, plus 2 from the yarn overs, adds up to 8 at any point in the pattern.
I hope this helps clear things up! If you’re still running into problems in your project, feel free to send us a photo of your work at [email protected]. It’s often helpful for us to be able to visualize what’s going on, so that we can give more specific advice!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks so much for all your free patterns! I have some Blue Lagoon Tussock in my stash that is a little bright for me, but this project seems perfect for pairing it with another color and toning it down a bit. I was considering Blue Fjord (darker), Nickel Blue (lighter but muted), or maybe even Balsam Green, to go more blue green, but it’s hard to guess whether the undertones of these will play nicely together. If you have the actual yarns in front of you, do you know what might work best? Thanks!
Hi Michelle,
Thanks for reaching out! I love the color Blue Lagoon, and think this would be a great project to use it! I think pairing it with Blue Fjord or Nickle Blue would be great to tone down the brightness a bit, and on the other hand, Balsam Green would be a fun pair and like you said, help bring out the blue/green hues! I do think this combination will be a bit more on the bright side compared to the other two, but I think the colors would pair well together.
I hope this helps, happy knitting!
Gianna
I’m having difficulty using the super fine tussock on the ssk stitch because I knit very tight. I purchased the partly cloudy blue and nickel blue bundle. Can you recommend another weight yarn that I can pair with the tussock and still make the wrap? How much would I need? Thank you.
Just want to ask (before I make a messy mistake!) whether it would work to wind one strand color A and one strand color B together from their respective skeins into a working yarn ball? Or is that risky?
Hi Ruth,
That’s a good question! I always recommend winding each color separately, since there’s a pretty high potential of the strands getting tangled if they’re wound together. I’d say better safe than sorry in this case!
All the best,
Lili
Hello. I just want to follow up on a question I submitted and haven’t received a response. My question was: I’m having difficulty with the ssk stitch using the tussock since I knit very tightly. I want to know if you can recommend a slightly denser yarn to use and still make the wrap. How much would I need? I’m using the nickel blue and partly cloudy blue combo. Thanks.
Hi Adrain,
Thanks for reaching out, and I apologize for the delayed response! I would suggest pairing the Tussock with either Line Weight, Linen Quill, or Quartz! This will add some stability while you are knitting, but they all three thin enough yarns that they wouldn’t overwhelm the pattern! For the wrap size, you will need 2 skeins of Line Weight, 2 skeins of Linen Quill, or 2 skeins of Quartz to complete the project.
I hope this helps, and please let me know if you have any more questions!
Gianna
This is my first time using your skeins. How do unwind/ re wind the skeins to begin knitting?
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for reaching out. We have a wonderful tutorial on winding a skein into a ball! You can find that right here. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
The gauge is 19 stitches and 27 rows in pattern but the pattern is multiple of 8 plus 2? Which would be 18?
Hi Jodie!
Thank you for your question. Gauge is a measurement of tension while the stitch multiple is a measurement of design, so though it may seem like these two numbers would match up, it is actually very common for them to differ! If you are interested in knitting a gauge swatch for your wrap, I would suggest knitting a multiple of 8 plus 2 that is larger than the gauge measurement (26 stitches would be perfect!), so as to include an inner square from which to measure gauge.
I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Margaret
This pattern is SO pretty. Thank you.
I’m confused on the ssks on row 1. As it starts after a yo, I slip 1st stitch of ssk with yarn in front (so as not to loose the yo) for the 2nd ssk stitch, should my yarn be with yf, or yb?
Then, to complete the ssk, should my yarn be behind or in front?
Sorry to be thick, but would love clarification. Many thanks and wishing all at Purl Soho a very merry Christmas.
Hi Rosamond,
Thanks for writing in! After you work the yo, you will actually keep your yarn in back for the entire duration of the ssk. When you slip those two stitches (and then slip them back to your left needle in order to knit them) the working yarn should remain in the exact same position. I hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – I love the pattern and the looks of this wrap! I have been trying to get the pattern to work for 2 days (!). I am working on the scarf pattern. With the casting on of 42 stitches – I have not been able to get the pattern yet for Row 1. It says to repeat from the * to the last 7 stitches….I have tried 4 times and graphed it out too and I have 6 stitches at the end of the row – after the ssk.
Can you please help!
Hi Tracey,
Thanks so much for writing in. I’m sorry to hear you’ve been having trouble with this pattern and am happy to help!
It sounds like something that’s happening during the repeat instructions between the asterisks could be throwing off your stitch count. Here’s the repeat instructions from Row 1 (Right Side) broken down into smaller parts along with how many stitches you would work for each part:
“*k4, knit 2 together (k2tog), [yarn over (yo)] 2 times, slip slip knit (ssk), repeat from * to last 7 stitches”
The K4 works 4 stitches, the K2TOG is worked using 2 stitches, the first YO makes a stitch, the next YO makes another stitch, and the SSK is worked over 2 stitches. Essentially, the two YO’s make up the 2 stitches that are decreased by the K2TOG and the SSK so they kind of “cancel” those out. That means that within the asterisks, you should have a total of 8 stitches.
So, the stitch count for the entirety of Row 1 (Right Side) would be: 3 stitches worked for the “K2, p1” at the start of the row, *8 stitches worked for the repeats* 4 times AKA 32 stitches, and lastly 7 more stitches for the “k4, p1, k2” at the end of the row. In total, that should get you to 42 stitches (3 + 32 + 7 = 42).
I hope this helps! Please let us know if you have further questions!
All the best,
Cat
I love the look of this pattern for a wrap and I’m considering making it. However, I wondered if it would work just using one strand of yarn instead of two. I’m guessing it might work out to be a bit smaller in size? I look forward to hearing from you.
Happy New Year! Thank you, Cindy
Hi Cindy,
This wrap would absolutely work with just one strand of yarn! And you can easily adjust the stitch count so that it comes to the original width.
To figure out your new cast-on number, you will want to first knit a gauge swatch in pattern with just the one strand of yarn (if this is daunting, we have a wonderful tutorial called All About Gauge). Once you know how many stitches you are getting per inch, you can multiply that number by the width (8¾ inches for the Scarf size or 17¼ inches for the Wrap) and cast on the nearest multiple of 8 + 2. Then you can follow the pattern as written!
All the best,
Lili
How many stitches do you recommend to cast on for the gauge swatch in pattern? Do you count the long floating stitch as one stitch or two?
Hi Danielle,
Thanks for writing in! I’d recommend casting on 26 stitches for the gauge swatch, and the long stitch counts as 2 stitches. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Hi-
The lace column wrap is beautiful. I am not having trouble with the pattern but if I need to pull out a stitch it is impossible.The fuzzy yarn gets tangled with the other strand. I bought the bundle – I was wondering if I can do something else with the yarn that is less aggravating.
Thanks!
Hi Ellen,
That’s a great question! One trick that we have found to be helpful when working with Tussock (or any mohair yarn) is putting it in the freezer. This actually relaxes the fibers, making it easier to undo stitches and mistakes! I’d recommend carefully putting your project into a ziploc freezer bag and leaving it in the freezer. After a few hours, you can take it out, and it should be significantly easier to undo stitches!
All the best,
Lili
Hi – I’m thinking of making this scarf with one strand of Tussock and one strand of Quartz, a yarn combination you suggested to another knitter. I think the beauty of this piece is using two related colors. Unfortunately, the Tussock and Quartz color palettes are quite different. I really likeTussock’s Alizarin Orange and Anjou Pear. What Quartz color can you see working with either of those yarns? Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Hi Diane,
Thanks for writing in! I’d suggest Quartz in Autumn Oak to go with the Tussock in Alizarin Orange! I would actually recommend a different yarn line, Line Weight, in the shade Kiln Red as a lovely pairing with Tussock in Anjou Pear. Line Weight is a fingering weight yarn just like Quartz and would go great with Tussock! With any yarn substitutions, we also highly recommend doing a gauge swatch to make sure your gauge is consistent with the pattern. You might find that you need to adjust your needle size! Here’s our guide on swatching if you’d like more information: All About Gauge.
I hope this helps, and please feel free to email us at [email protected] if you’d like to see any pictures of how these color combinations look together!
All the best,
Cat
Hey Cat – I love your suggestion to use Line Weight’s Kiln Red with Tussock’s Anjou Pear! I’m making this scarf for a friend of mine who is a redhead, and I think this combination will be fabulous. Thanks again for your assistance.
Hi Diane,
You’re so very welcome, I’m glad I could help! We’re super excited for your wrap and wish you all the happy knitting!
All the best,
Cat
Hi,
Can you give some updated pairing suggestions: I’m interested in pinks, neutrals (lights), and blues, and darks.
Thanks!
Hi Natalie,
Here are some color ideas for this wrap:
Pinks: Tea Rose + Anjou Pear
Neutrals: Heirloom White + Silver Needle
Blues: Blue Fjord + Blue Black
Darks: Balsam Green + Gray Quartz
Let me know what you think!
All the best,
Lili
Thanks Lili. I love the suggestions!
(At the same time some of these colors are so enticing on their own! )
Hi,
I purchased 7 skeins of Tussock in Cypress Green to make the Emblem blanket but decided to do another blanket. Now I am thinking of making the lace columns wrap or scarf. I have two questions:
1. What color would you recommend to go with Cypress Green since Lucky Green is no longer available, or can you recommend another yarn with colors to go with the Cypress Green?
2. How would the wrap or scarf look just using Cypress Green?
Thank you.
Hi Sharon!
Thanks so much for reaching out! I’m so glad the Lace Columns Wrap stood out to you, and I’m happy to help!
I would suggest either Bright Verdigris or Golden Lichen for a more subtle color palette. For a higher contrast palette, I’d recommend something like Bright Thistle or Cerulean Sea.
I think this wrap would still look lovely holding two strands of Cypress Green, though the depth of the color (and potentially stitch definition) might stand out more with another shade added.
I hope this helps, please feel free to reach out with another question!
Happy knitting!
Hills
Hello! I am knitting this using the Purl Soho Cattail Silk yarn. I love how it looks. My question is whether the length will change significantly once I block it? I’ve never knit with silk before so I don’t know if I should except it to grow in length at all once the scarf is blocked. Thank you for any advice!
Hi Cat,
Thank you so much for reaching out! This is such a great question, and this sounds like a really lovely project!
Silk, as a fiber, offers little memory or elasticity. Meaning, it will relax into a nice drape when blocked. You’ll find the stitches will become more even and flat when blocked. You won’t see any shrinkage, but you may see a little growth, and it tends to have a more dense feel when worn. That growth should only be on the first wash, though.
I would suggest knitting up a gauge swatch and blocking that to get a better idea of how the fiber will behave. We recommend wet blocking and laying flat, though you can also lay it flat, mist it, and pin it down. It should also soften really nicely when blocked, but I would advise trying not to block it too aggressively, as it’s a delicate fiber…
Please feel free to reach back out with any other questions, and happy knitting!
Hills