Magnolia Ascot
A romantic knit accessory to throw around your neck for a little drama and warmth, our free Magnolia Ascot pattern is as soft and lovely as the bloom it’s named for, thanks to our incredibly special Simply Yak yarn.

And now in a new undyed color, fascinating Natural Taupe joins velvety Natural Brown, both straight from nature. The rich depth of these colors comes directly from the animals that grew the fiber, and both make absolutely gorgeous Magnolia Ascots!

You start knitting at one tip with just a few stitches, working a pleasing petal shape with simple increases and decreases. Then you create the keyhole (super easy and very satisfying!) before moving on to a stretch of stockinette and finishing off with the second tapered petal. The pattern offers three different lengths so your ascot can be just the right size.

100% yak and 1000% beautiful, Simply Yak is made with fiber combed from the downy, insulating undercoat of these majestic animals. This unique fiber is heartbreakingly soft and delicately haloed with a graceful drape, comparable to cashmere but with a special magic all its own. It’s also toasty warm and surprisingly breathable… Just right!

We created our Simply Yak yarn to celebrate the immense goodness of this fiber. This generous DK-weight yarn has a plush, plump feel in your fingers and on the needles, and its lofty 2-ply spin allows the finished fabric to bloom splendidly when blocked. Smooth stockinette is the perfect showcase for all that beauty!


Pick up two skeins of Simply Yak in whichever natural color is calling to you and cast on for a quick-knitting Magnolia Ascot… Simply lovely!
Yarn lovers, if you adore the yarn used in this project, you’ll love exploring all of our other yarn collections! Discover over 45 thoughtfully designed yarns in nearly every natural fiber and in every spectacular color you can imagine. Only available here at Purl Soho’s online yarn store, where every skein is created with care and your creativity in mind!

Designed by Purl Soho designer, Hiromi Glover. See even more of Hiromi’s work on her Instagram!
Share your progress and connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoMagnoliaAscot, and #PurlSohoSimplyYak. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials

- 2 skeins of Purl Soho’s Simply Yak, 100% yak yarn. Each skein of this light worsted/dk-weight yarn is 109 yards/ 50 grams; approximately 145 (150, 160) total yards required. We made a sample in each of Simply Yak’s two undyed colors: Natural Taupe and Natural Brown.
- US 6 (4 mm), 16-inch circular knitting needles
- A spare circular or double pointed needle, US 6 or smaller
- Stitch holder or scrap yarn
GAUGE
21 stitches and 31 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch
SIZES
Small (Medium, Large)
To fit actual neck circumference of 11½–13½ (13½–15½,15½–17½) inches
- Finished Dimensions: 6½ inches wide x 31½ (33½, 35½) inches long
SAMPLES: We knit the Small size for both of our ascots.
NOTES
SLIP STITCHES
Slip all stitches purlwise with yarn in front (wyif) unless indicated otherwise.
STOCKINETTE STITCH WITH SLIP-STITCH SELVAGE
Row 1 (right side): Knit to end of row.
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1 purlwise wyif, purl to last stitch, slip 1 purlwise wyif.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 for stitch pattern.
PATTERN
FIRST TIP
With main needles, cast on 3 stitches. We used a basic Long Tail Cast On.
Set-Up Row (wrong side): Slip 1 (see Notes), p1, slip 1.
Row 1 (Increase Row, right side): K1, make 1 right (m1R), knit to last stitch, make 1 left (m1L), k1. [2 stitches increased]
Row 2 (wrong side): Slip 1, purl to last stitch, slip 1.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 seventeen more times, ending with a wrong-side row. [39 stitches]
Work 4 rows in stockinette stitch with slip-stitch selvage (see Notes), ending with a wrong-side row.
Next Row (Decrease Row, right side): K1, slip slip knit (ssk), knit to last 3 stitches, knit 2 together (k2tog), k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Work 3 rows in stockinette stitch, as established, ending with a wrong-side row.
Repeat Decrease Row. [35 stitches remain]
Work 5 rows in stockinette stitch, as established, ending with a wrong-side row.
MAKE KEYHOLE
DIVIDE BACK + FRONT
Redistribute stitches to separate First Tip into two individual layers. Here’s how…
With right-side of work facing you, hold needle with First Tip stitches in your left hand. Hold right end of working needles and spare needle parallel to each other in your right hand, with working needle in back and spare needle in front.
Division Row (right side): *Slip first stitch purlwise with yarn in back (wyib) from left needle onto front spare needle, slip next stitch purlwise wyib from left needle onto back working needle, repeat from * to last stitch, slip last stitch purlwise wyib from left needle onto front spare needle. [18 stitches on spare needle for Front Keyhole; 17 stitches on working needle for Back Keyhole]
NOTE: If your spare needle is a double pointed needle (rather than circular needles), you may want to slip the Front Keyhole stitches from the spare needle onto scrap yarn. Having those stitches on something flexible will make it easier to work the Back Keyhole stitches.
BACK KEYHOLE
NOTE: In Back Keyhole section only, you will work in reverse stockinette stitch, purling with a slip-stitch selvage on right-side rows and knitting on wrong-side rows.
With right side of work still facing you, slide Back Keyhole stitches to right end of working needles to continue with working yarn.
Row 1 (right side): Slip 1, purl to last stitch, slip 1.
Row 2 (wrong side): Knit to end of row.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twelve more times, ending with Row 2.
Slip stitches to scrap yarn, and cut yarn.
FRONT KEYHOLE
NOTE: You will now return to working in stockinette stitch as previously established, knitting on right-side rows and purling with a slip-stitch selvage on wrong-side rows.
Slip Front Keyhole stitches to main circular needles and rejoin yarn, ready to work a right-side (i.e. knit) row.
Work 26 rows in stockinette stitch, as established, ending with a wrong-side row.
Do not cut yarn.
JOIN FRONT + BACK
Place Back Keyhole stitches onto spare needle.
With right side of work facing you, hold Front and Back Keyhole stitches parallel in your left hand, with working needle in front and spare needle in back and right end of working needles in your right hand.
Joining Row (right side): *K1 from Front Keyhole, k1 from Back Keyhole, repeat from * to last stitch, k1 from Front Keyhole. [35 total stitches]
BODY
Continue in stockinette stitch, as established, until piece measures 25½ (27½, 29½) inches from cast-on edge, ending with a wrong-side row.
SECOND TIP
Increase Row (right side): K1, m1R, knit to last stitch, m1L, k1. [2 stitches increased]
Work 3 rows in stockinette stitch, as established.
Repeat Increase Row. [39 total stitches]
Work 5 rows in stockinette stitch, as established.
Decrease Row (right side): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Work 1 row in stockinette stitch, as established.
Repeat last 2 rows 16 more times. [5 stitches remain]
Next Row (right side): Ssk, k1, k2tog. [3 stitches remain]
Work 1 row in stockinette stitch, as established.
Next Row (right side): Slip 2 together knitwise wyib, k1, pass slipped stitches over, cut yarn and pull through remaining stitch.
FINISHING
Weave in ends and gently wet block.


Learn About Simply Yak + All Our Beautiful Yarns
The beauty of Simply Yak is so sublime that the simpler the project, the more it can speak for itself. A 100% yak yarn available in two fascinating undyed colors, Simply Yak comes from the soft and insulating undercoat of free-roaming, majestic yaks, and as you can imagine, it is incredibly soft and toasty with a lovely halo glowing off its surface… Cast on with this light worsted/DK-weight yarn and discover the special pleasure of Simply Yak!
More Free Knitting Patterns
- Be sure to explore our free Simply Yak knitting patterns and cast on!
More Light Worsted/ DK-Weight Yarns
- Shop our entire collection of light worsted/DK-weight yarns
- If you want to use a different yarn, be sure to take the time to get the correct gauge. Need help? Check our All About Gauge Tutorial!
More Yarns With Similar Fiber
- Shop yak yarn
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
I’d love to make toddler & child versions – any suggestions for how to size those? Thanks.
Hi Rachel,
That’s a great idea! I’d recommend making it slightly narrower by not increasing as many times, as well as making it shorter by knitting the BODY for fewer inches.
All the best,
Lili
Very cute pattern! Thank you for sharing.
I’m trying to figure out why my selvedge slip stitches are looking different on one side from the other. Any thoughts? I’m slipping purlwise with yarn in front.
Hi Talin,
Thanks for writing in! Would you mind sending a photo of your work to us directly at [email protected]? That way, we can better visualize what’s going on in your project!
All the best,
Lili
I’m having the same problem! The right edge of my wrong side rows are much looser than the left edge – even with greater tension. Any tips?
Hi Sunnie,
Thanks for writing in! Would you mind sending a photo of your work to us directly at [email protected]? That way, we can better visualize what’s going on in your project!
All the best,
Lili
Where is the pattern for the medium and large size for the Magnolia Ascot?
Hi Alice,
Thanks for writing in! The pattern contains instructions for each size! The only way the sizes differ is in length, and the length you’ll need to knit for each is indicated in the BODY section.
All the best,
Lili
Can you please clarify the pattern for the back keyhole where it says to “Repeat Rows 1 and 2 twelve more times…”? I take it to mean 24 rows total, but just wanted to be sure before proceeding. Thanks!
Hi Julie,
Thanks for writing in! It’ll actually end up being 26 total rows–counting the first time you work Row 1 and Row 2, plus the 24 rows during the repeat!
All the best,
Lili
Do you have a tutorial for the keyhole? I didn’t see one. Am having a hard time visualizing . Thank you
Hi Abigail,
I’m afraid that we haven’t made a tutorial for this specific part of this pattern, but I’d recommend booking a 1-On-1 Help appointment if you’d like to see a demonstration!
All the best,
Lili
The tips are curling up because they are stockinette. How did you get yours to lat flat in this project?
Hi Jerri,
Thanks for writing in! We wet blocked our sample, which generally helps minimize the curling. As an extra tip, you can even lay it flat to dry with the wrong side up for more effectiveness!
All the best,
Lili
Hi. I am having difficulty following the pattern instructions fr this pattern. I have read it several times, and I understand how to make the initial increases, but without a chart or written row-by-row instructions, I can’t figure out how many increasing rows I need to knit before I get to the keyhole portion. (There are decreasing rows in there too.). Kindly advise. The pattern and the yarn are beautiful and I cannot wait to knit it. Thank you!
Hi Maria,
I’m happy to help out! You’ll be repeating Rows 1 and 2 seventeen more times (so 34 more total rows) for the increase section. All you have to do is just work Rows 1 and 2 over and over again, so if you understand how to do these rows, then you’re all set! A good tip is to use a row counter or keep a tally of how many rows you’ve knit. Once that hits 36 (counting the first time you work Rows 1 and 2, plus the additional 17 repeats), then you’ll know it’s time to move on to the next instruction in the pattern!
You can also always double check your stitch count to see if you’re nearing the end of the increases. By the end, you should be at 39 total stitches, so that’s another way to know that it’s time to move to the next line of the pattern.
I hope this helps, but please let me know if you have any other questions.
All the best,
Lili
Hi there,
I am having trouble with the M1R stitches in the first tip.
At first I was picking up the strand between the new knit stitch and the one I am about to knit, but it was creating a gap with the slip stitch.
I tried picking up the front leg of the secured stitch below instead, but I’m not sure if this is right …
Any tips here?
Hi Amelia,
I’m so sorry to hear that you’re running into trouble with this stitch! Can you please send a photo of your work showing the gaps to [email protected]? That way, we can better visualize what’s going on!
All the best,
Lili