Father’s Day Tie
As you may remember we posted a Little Boy’s Tie around Easter and it got a great response. Many of you were interested in making a larger version and what better occasion to do so than Father’s Day which is on June 21st this year!
When I was growing up my dad wore a tie almost every day. But not the kind of ties you might expect. As an example; he had one, handmade by my mom, with flying eyeballs embroidered all over it. So when we decided to do a man’s tie for Father’s Day I knew I had to make it special, and not boring for my dad.
Liberty of London Tana Lawn seemed like the perfect fabric for the job. In addition to all of its amazing prints the Tana Lawn has a silk like feel that is perfect for a tie. But when I went to pick out the prints to use I couldn’t decide which ones seemed manly but not dull so I enlisted my dad’s help. He helped to pick out the three prints.
I think the end product is a perfect Father’s Day present. It’s so easy and fun to make that you might find yourself making one for all the men in your life, and then maybe making one for yourself. This is also a great present for recent grads who might need a tie for job hunting. And it could certainly come in handy if you’re planning a wedding as well.
Perhaps, now that I’ve mastered the basic shape, I will embroider some flying eyeballs on them but that might be a bit much? Happy Father’s Day!– Molly
Designed by Purl Soho designer, Molly Schnick. Click here to see even more of Molly’s work!
The Materials
To make one 55 1/2-inch long by 3-inch wide (at it’s widest point) tie. (You could actually make two if you cut carefully. If you’re planning on making more than two there is no need to get more interfacing- the amount of interfacing should suffice for at least four ties.):
- 3/4-yard Liberty of London Tana Lawn
- 1/4-yard Quilters Muslin in White
- 1 1/2-yards Heavyweight Sew-in Interfacing
- 1 yard light weight fusible interfacing
- 100% cotton thread to match the Tana Lawn
- One Father’s Day Tie pattern, available free here, printed out and assembled. (This is a corrected version of this pattern. If you downloaded the pattern before April 6th, 2011 you have an older version, so please download it again.)
Cutting
Please note that this tie is slightly shorter than a standard 57-inch long tie. To make it longer you can add the desired additional length between the M1 and M2 neck pieces, and the Interfacing pieces #14 and #15 before you tape the pattern together.
Cut out the Front, Back and Middle Pieces on the bias. Below is an easy, fool proof method of cutting on the bias (but please keep in mind that your pattern shape will be slightly different than the one in the pictures below.)
Cut the 27-inch x 54-inch piece of Tana Lawn in half length-wise to create two 27-inch squares.
Take one of these squares and fold it in half diagonally as shown above and press it. This diagonal line is the bias fold.
Pin the pattern piece down to the fabric matching the side of the pattern that says “fold” to the fold of the fabric. Cut out your piece.
After you have cut out your front, middle and back pieces unfold them. The front and middle pieces will have two points, like an M shape on one end, while the middle piece will have this M shape at both ends.
You will need to cut these points in a specific way. Start with the front piece. Place it right side facing up. You will be cutting off the right hand point. Place a ruler along the inside edge of the left hand point and across the right side of the piece, extending the angle of the left point, as shown above.
Cut off the right hand point along this angle. You will have a roughly 45-degree angled edge that points to the left.
In this same manner cut the other two pieces with the following orientations. (It is very important that the points face in the correct direction.):
- For the middle piece cut the first end with the point facing to the left. Then rotate the piece 180-degrees and cut the other end so the point is pointing to the right. You will end up with a trapezoid shape as pictured above on the far left.
- For the end piece cut the M shaped end so the point is pointing to the right as pictured above on the far right.
Then cut out the Tie Interfacing piece from the heavy sew in interfacing and the front and back lining pieces from the muslin. All together here are the piece you will have:
- 1- Tana Lawn Tie Front
- 1- Tana Lawn Tie Middle
- 1- Tana Lawn Tie End
- 1- Tie Interfacing Piece
- 1- Front Tie Lining
- 1- Back Tie Lining
Sewing the Front, Middle and Back
Iron the middle crease out of the front back and middle pieces. Place them wrong side up and close together, but not overlapping, on the ironing board. Lay the light weight fusible interfacing right side up (fusible side down) on top of the pieces. Set your iron to the synthetic setting and iron the interfacing to the fabric. You will probably iron the interfacing on to your ironing board too at this point but it’s easy to peel it off and you can use a press cloth if you’re worried about damaging your ironing board cover.
Cut the interfacing around the front, middle, and back pieces. The pieces will now be much stiffer.
Using a water soluble pen or a regular pencil draw a line 1/4-inch in from each of the angled edges of all three pieces. Mark it on both the front of the piece and the back. Orient your pieces as shown above: the front piece at the bottom, the middle piece with its points facing to the right and the back piece at the top with its point facing down and to the left.
With the right sides together match up the marked lines ad pin the pieces together as shown above. This marked line will be your sew line.
Sew across both marked lines and then press the tie flat. You can trim the edges a bit if it didn’t line up perfectly.
Adding the Front and Back Lining
Iron the tie and both lining pieces in half lengthwise to get a crease. This will help to line everything up properly.
From the Front Tie Lining, fold the bottom tip up 1/4-inch and press it.
Fold the bottom sides of the lining in 1/4-inch each and press them into place. This will form a neat point at the bottom angle of the lining.
Repeat this step for the Back Lining.
Fold the bottom edges of the Front tie in 1/4 and press them into place.
Fold the tip up 1/4-inch press it, and then fold in the sides to a neat point and press it again, as you did above with the lining pieces.
Repeat this step for the back of the tie.
Place the Front Lining on top of the Front Tie end, wrong sides together. Make sure that the lining is contained within the borders of the end of the tie as shown above. It should be a little bit smaller than the tie end.
Pin the Lining in place
Sew the folded edges of the lining onto the tie end with a slip stitch. Sew only through the folded layer of the Tana Lawn and interfacing- Do not sew though to the front of the tie. This is very similar to sewing on the binding of a quilt.
It’s not necessary to sew the top of the lining, it will get enclosed within in the shaping of the tie.
Repeat the same steps to sew on the Back Lining.
Shaping the Tie
Fold in edges of the long sides 1/4-inch and press into place.
Fold again 1/4-inch and press.
Fold both edges in so they meet at the crease in the center of the tie and press.
Open up the sides and slip your interfacing in as pictured above. It should fit snugly inside the tie. You may have to trim it slightly to get it to fit.
Now it’s time to close up the tie. Refold the edges, press them again and pin into place.
Sew Tie
The inside seam of your tie will be sewn by hand.
Please Note: I used red thread for the following steps, but only so the technique would be more visible. At home you should use thread that matches your fabric.
Tack the point where the two edges meet a few times before you start your seam.
The tie is sewn up with a different type of slip stitch than was used for sewing the lining:
- Start from the tack run your needle through the fold on the left side and come out about 1/2-inch above.
- Insert your needle directly across from where you came out into the right side and slide it up though the fold for a 1/2-inch.
- Then enter the left side directly across from where you exited the right side.
- Repeat
Once you do this a few times you will have a little ladder of stitches as shown above.
- Pull the stitches taut and they will almost disappear.
- When you get to the end of your length of thread take a couple of tacking stitches but this time sew though the interfacing as well, while making sure not to sew though to the front of the tie, which will hold the interfacing in place.
Sew the entire inside seam of the tie in this way.
Once you’re done, press the tie thoroughly to get rid of the middle seam and you’ll be finished! Enjoy! –Molly
Update on June 19, 2009
Please note: We have revised the tie pattern template a bit. The new pattern is available for download, for free, here as well as in the “Materials” section above. If you downloaded the pattern before April 6, 2011 should re-download the new version. Thanks so much for all your comments- they’ve really helped us improve the pattern!– Molly
This is so cute! I love it.
My husband loves skinny ties and it’s so hard to find them – now I can make him as many as he needs! Thanks for the info on how to modify the pattern.
I have made many ties (one husband; two boys!), and I have always used the Vogue men’s tie pattern, but your tutorial explains the blind stitching so much more fabulously! I find my hand-made ties turn out much nicer if I use the special interfacing made just for ties.
thank you so much. i started a tie for my father for christmas and it’s still not finished (yikes). I am using a mccall’s pattern, but the execution of it is resulting in a very unattractive tie. i am going to be ripping some seams tonight and following this way of assembling it instead.
Your pictures and instructions are inspiring and easy to follow. Can’t wait to make this tie!
I love this! And it may just be the fun thing I need to make Father’s Day well, Fun!
These are so great! The fabric choices are wonderful. I can’t wait to try this!
Thank you!!! This is great!!!
The instructions are great – but those patterns … I pity the father!
Hello Davy-
I just gave one of these to my dad and he loves it! But if these bold prints aren’t for you (or your dad) we carry lots of more conservative options:
A subtle yarn dyed Japanese fabric:
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/fabricdetail/4969
Pinstripes (on sale!):
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/fabricdetail/3849
A chambray:
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/fabricdetail/3977
Or even just a plain solid:
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/fabricdetail/1710
Thanks- Molly
Hello All-
Just wanted to let you know that the pattern has been corrected and should be mistake free now. If you downloaded this pattern before May 26th, 2009 you should re-download as the earlier version has some mistakes. Thank you all for your understanding!
– Molly
If we use a 44 wide fabric, how much should we order? Thanks for the great pattern.
This is such a fantastic idea – and I think your choice of fabrics is perfect, both in feel and look. That’s the bit that would have completely foxed me! Thank you for a fantastic tutorial. x
I adore these ties! But when I worked in a fabric store and a professional tailor spoke about making ties, he said one should never press a man’s tie that is cut on the bias. Rather steam lightly, and/or insert a piece of cardboard within the crease and then steam.
However– The pressing doesn’t seem to have hurt these beauties!
Thank you so much for doing this!! My 14 year old son is graduating from Middle School next week and wants a ‘cool tie’ and by gosh, now he will have a one of a kind!!
Hello!
I really like your how to. I was wondering if I could translate it in French and add it to my list of how to as explained in my french post (http://www.petitcitron.com/index.php/form_howto.html)
Of course, your website would be quoted and there would be a link!
Thank you,
Perrine
Help! My Tie front piece does not match the middle piece by about an inch. Should I center it and trim down both sides? Do I trim down the entire middle and back? Or start with a new front piece? It looks to me the pattern piece is smaller.
hi! i am attempting to make this tie for my husband for father’s day. i have 3/4 yard of 44 inch fabric but i am having a very difficult time figuring out how to be able to cut everything on the bias fold! is it possible? or did i need to buy more fabric? i was hoping to be able to get a baby tie out of this amount of fabric as well.
if you could help, i would so appreciate it! i am just really confused! (ps thank you so much for the pattern/instructions…they are wonderful…i am just not great at using patterns!).
Hi Tracy-
You are right that they aren’t matching up quite right- I’m so sorry for the inconvenience.
I think the easiest thing to do would be to center and trim the middle piece. Honestly the middle piece could stand to be a bit thinner over all so it might actually improve the tie. Thanks for pointing this out. I will work on getting it corrected.
– Molly
Hi Kami-
The fabric I used for this project is 54-inches wide which makes two 27-inch by 27-inch squares to cut from. However, I believe that you could do this with 45-inch wide fabric as well (I’m not sure you’ll have enough for the boys tie too but you might). After you cut your first longest piece along the bias fold (as shown in the cutting picture above) just fold your remaining fabric on the bias again and cut from that. Please let us know if you need any more help and thanks for your question.
– Molly
This tie looks fabulous, and I can’t wait to make it! However, I can’t seem to find the right type of interfacing anywhere. I already had the lightweight fusible, but I can’t find the heavyweight sew-in interfacing. Could you please tell me what brand you used? Thank you!
Molly,
Thanks so much! I have almost finished the “big boy” tie and your instructions about cutting on the bias helped me so much! I’ll see if I can get a baby boy tie out of it as well, but I’m not sure there’s enough.
Anyways, thanks again for this tutorial. It was easy to follow and well explained! I’ll leave a link with a picture of my finished tie soon.
Hi Emily-
You could use the Pelltex Fusible Stabilizer available here:
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/accessories_notions_list/83
…but just tread it as if it was not fusible. You could also just use your lightweight interfacing in the same manner. The tie will be a bit more lightweight but still very nice.
Thanks so much for your question- Molly
Great tutorial!
Should I prewash/shrink the interfacing as well as the fabric?
Hi Brandy,
No, there is no need to do that, it won’t shrink or change shape when you wash it.
Hi Molly,
Thanks so much for a great tutorial! I used it to make matching father and son ties for my son and husband and they came out great! The pattern was easy and the directions were easy to follow even for a beginner like me! Thanks again!
I am using 45″ fabric, but when I fold on the bias it’s not long enough for the tie front. Should I make it in two pieces?
Wow! That is a great tutorial! Thanks for all the work that you put into posting this. I’m a big fan of ties and you do a really great job.
Just completed the tie. Didn’t trust myself to get it done in time for Christmas but took me just about 3 hours. The pattern was well written and easy to follow.
Thanks!!
I finished the tie, not quite in time for Dec. 25th, but in time for holiday drinks with a few friends who get these nifty ties. You can see my version on my site at http://mooshkette.squarespace.com/mooshkette/2009/12/30/the-last-of-the-handmade-giftsties.html
re: the Ties
One thing that bothered me about the finished tie was the weight. Today I bought real tie interfacing which is more like a canvas and I think that should do the trick. I’ll let you know how it turns out.
This pattern was super fun to make. One thing I didn’t understand and changed was cutting the M point at about a 45 degree angle. I didn’t have a ruler as shown so maybe that was the problem that I was doing a wrong angle. After a couple of tries I found it easier to just make straight seams not angles.
Anyhow……Wonderful pattern I’ve always wanted to make a men’s tie thanks for the inspiration and motavation to do it! My first one came out really great…I think 🙂
Lovely patterns to those ties you made!!!
And thanks for the tutorial filled with photos!
I just printed the pattern out, and assembled the pieces together.
I laid the interfacing pattern on the 1.5 yd interfacing, and it does not seem to be enough. Can you let me know what I might be doing wrong here?
Thanks!!!
Hello,
I have made a tie once for my best friend and said it was hard to tie a little loose.
I am just a beginner at sewing but has sewn a few thing. I would like to know is this tie instructions easy to follow or will I have problems? I don’t want to use the suggested fabric I like using cotton fabric I get at my local fabric store.
Just wondering please send any advie my way…. Thanks Aaron
I haven’t made ties in a long while and no longer have a pattern. Your pattern and directions are terrific. I can hardly wait to get material and start making ties again. A big thank you.
I am completely and totally in LOVE right now!
These are PERFECTION
and I was really needing this.
THANKS SOOOO MUCH for sharing your brilliance!
xoxo
bB
I’m so confused….are these 2 different ties? Or do you just switch fabric in the midddle and change ties? Sorry, I’m a little slow, but as I was reading through the tutorial I’m just really confused on the 2 different ties things….I guess I’m the only one. Help!
I just used your pattern it worked great!! my husband loves it!
Great article! I'm linking to you from my blog entry about ties.
great tutorial, thanks for sharing. I have added it to me 'Christmas Gifts to Sew' round up post, I just wanted to let you know.
Jo
http://jojoebi.blogspot.com/2010/10/lots-of-gifts-to-sew.html
hi, i was so happy to find this pattern, but when i printed out the revised version, my pattern pieces don't match up. for example, at the dotted line where F2 is taped to F3 one piece is significantly wider than the other. same between 11 and 12: 12 is nearly 1/4 inch wider than 11. anybody else have this problem?
hi! thanks for the GREAT tutorial… my Q is, can i use some very stiff / upholstery fabric? (instead of interfacing?) thanks again– GREAT! kelley
Re: Sandra's comment on 22 November 2010, I'm having trouble with the pattern as well (the revised version) – it looks beautiful and simple and I'd love to make this, is there something I can do to make it right? Thanks heaps for posting this!
To Sandra and Tinymouse,
I am so sorry to hear that you are having trouble with this pattern. We have made it a priority to revise and fix it at the beginning of the year. Thank you so much for pointing out these issues and we are so sorry for any inconvenience this has caused.
– Molly
Unfortunately, I found this very difficult. The revised pattern still did not match up very well, and I had to do a lot of adjusting on the edges to be sure that things weren't too wonky. Otherwise, I had a little trouble with the slip stitch, but I think that was just me! I found a video that demonstrated. Thank you for the resource however, my tie came out very nicely, and I made it of satin. Classy!
thanks so much, my son loves plaid and its impossible to find them. i took out some of his old plaid shorts to make him some ties. he was so surprised, thanks you made the job so much easier.
I did have some trouble with the pattern pieces matching up exactly, but nothing i couldn't fix with a little trimming of the fabric edges. The part I found the hardest was getting the front piece pattern to line up properly on the “fold” line with the folded fabric…it seemed to be a bit curved on the edge that should be straight…which I just worked around without a big problem, but just wanted to let you know.
Thanks for the clear directions, and especially the explanation of the different kinds of slip stitching.
The interfacing made this a great first project for me using a “slippery fabric” as it didn't shift around too much.
I am so happy that I used your pattern (a friend offered me a vogue pattern, which i was keeping on hand as a backup in case i didn't understand yours)…it really made sense and the pictures were very helpful.
My Dad and brother will be getting this for Christmas and they will be absolutely floored. I showed the finished ties (yep, I made two) to a guy friend and he said “wow…you made ties? they look like ties!” (not sarcastic…he was just genuinely blown away that you can make a tie at home that looks like one you'd buy at the store.)
Thanks for a great pattern that even a relatively new seamstress can follow 🙂 I'm sure this took a lot of time to put together and revise….so a big thank you to you!
Hi Molly,
Thanks for the pattern – I can't wait to make this. One question – the supply list calls for sew-in interfacing, but the instructions seem to use fusible. Which is best? Thanks!
I am seconding the comment above about the sew-in interfacing–1.5 yards was too short to fit the entire taped-together pattern for me. I ended up getting a second, 2-yard length to make it work. Was the pdf supposed to be scaled down a little when printed? My ties ultimately came out around 59 inches long instead of 54, and print scaling was the only way I could think of to explain both.
In any case, it was a good learning experience; thanks for sharing!
This wonderful idea/pattern is being linked to in our May Newsletter that goes out tomorrow! http://www.carolinacottoncompany.com/newsletter/
Thank you for sharing.>>!!! GREAT!!
Stay
Cozy!
lisa of CCC
Hi, I am excited to sew a tie for my little boy using this pattern. Is is absolutely essential to cut the fabric on the bias? My fabric is a plaid on the diagonal and if I cut it on the bias the plaid will be straight? Thank you for your help!
Hi Katie-
The pattern will work but it might not lay quite right. But if it's essential to your vision of the tie for the plaid to be diagonal then I say you should just go for it- I think it will be fine!
Good luck and thank you for your question!
Molly
I have a printable design for necktie art, and I'm wondering how difficult it would be to make that work. (It didn't work on Zazzle.) I see two issues with that.
First, I'm wondering how tough it is to get the pattern to align with a pattern on the tie that is a non-repeating design, rather than a repeating pattern.
Second, I'm curious about how easy it is to modify the tie pattern PDF for a wider tie, since my design is scaled for a four-inch wide tie, rather than the slightly narrower design here.
I'm planning on trying to muddle through it anyway, since I hope to be wearing the tie in just a couple of days, but if the adjustments necessary are simple to explain that would be a bonus.
Hi Steve-
I'm afraid I'm not familiar with printable designs like what you're talking about.
It is easy enough to blow up a PDF to make it wider, just print it larger than 100%. But unfortunately that will also make the pieces longer as well. You could also print out the pattern as is and then add 1/2 inch to either side before you cut out the fabric.
Good luck and thank you for your questions!
Molly
Hi again Molly,
I got my design to work, but it was a complicated process. First, I designed the image I wanted on my tie (a collage of Ray Harryhausen movie posters, plus a couple of pictures of Harryhausen himself). I've done a few other similar ties in past years, to wear at Seattle International Film Festival events. To get the image onto a tie, I previously uploaded them to Zazzle, and they printed them and manufactured the tie.
This time, I made the tie myself. My printer, an Epson C88+, can print images up to 8.544 inches, and the ink is water-resistant (maybe waterproof, but I don't plan on testing whether it survives a wash). I drew an outline of a finished tie based on your design, combining the front, middle, and back pieces. Because I wanted my tie to be four inches wide at the widest point, I made the outline 8.5 inches wide: four inches for the front side, four inches for the parts folded behind the back, and two quarter-inch hems. I tapered it with a profile similar that would assemble the same way, but it's not the same outline.
Next, I pasted my Harryhausen design into the outline image, and cropped two copies of that image to 33 inches (the fat and skinny ends of the tie, with a generous allowance to overlap). I taped four sheets of 8.511 paper together, and printed the fat end on one side and the skinny end on the other side.
Once I had the image of the tie on paper, I taped plain white polyester (backed with light interfacing, and cut to just larger than the outline of the fat end) to the paper. I ran the whole works through the printer again, removed it from the paper, and repeated for the skinny end. After removing them, I trimmed them down to the exact outline (which was right on the polyester), and proceeded with assembly of the fat end, the skinny end, the tip linings, the slip-in interfacing stiffener, and the loop on the back with my name.
At least that was the plan. As it turned out, I messed up the printing on the fat end a few times. (One, water drops from pressing the polyester made the printer ink run before it dried to its water-resistant finish. Two, I ran it through the printer backwards, printing the interfacing, which blurred. Three, I ran it through the printer up-side-down, so that the wide part ran outside the bounds of the fabric. The first was a mistake of inexperience; the second and third mistakes of rushing against a tight deadline.) Those mistakes exhausted my supply of white polyester, and I didn't have time to run to the fabric store for more, so I ended up printing it on white cotton, which worked fine, though the texture wasn't as nice as the polyester on the skinny end.
In spite of the mistakes, I'm still pleased with the outcome.
Hi! Can you recommend a fabric that I can purchase from you to make this tie? I would like the color to be just solid red without patterns/prints.
Thanks so much for the pattern and your help!
Joanna
Hi Joanna-
Sure thing! I think the following fabrics in the red of your choice would work beautifully:
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/3134-Rowan-Fabrics-Shot-Cotton
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/8541-Kokka-Fabrics-Fine-Solids
https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/1710-Robert-Kaufman-Kona-Cotton
The kona cotton might be a bit thick but it would probably work, and you can't beat the color selection.
Thank you so much for writing in!
Molly
Molly, I have admired your work here for quite some time and just, tonight, made a tie using your pattern and instructions – turned out great! Thank you so much! Blessings!
Hi! I am new to sewing, espicially on sewing machines. Is the final stage of sewing up the back of the tie the only part that is hand sewn, the rest is on a sewing machine? Is there any kind of settings i need to know as far as like the size of the stitches or anything on the sewing machines? Thanks! -Janice
Hi Janice-
Yes, the last step is the only part that is hand sewn, the rest will be sewn on your machine. Just use your machine's medium straight stitch.
Thanks for writing in!
Molly
great! thank you. going to make one of these for Lillian's daddy!
Hi! Thanks for the awesome pattern, I just made my first tie and I love it. Now I'll have to get myself invited to more formal/ smart-casual events so I can make my boyfriend wear all my handmade ties 😉
Some people noticed that the patterns didn't line up exactly, I had that problem, so what I did was before I cut out any pattern pieces, I redrafted the outside lines based on the end points. So rather than follow what LOOKS like a straight line, but was slightly curved, I just joined up the widest end points on each section and joined them with a pencil line. Before I cut my actual fabric, I checked that the pattern pieces lined up when placed together as if they'd been sewn. Anything that didn't quite match I trimmed up a bit, and ended up with the perfect pattern.
Regarding lightweight interfacing, I used quilting cotton, so the lightweight interfacing was plenty good enough for my tie. I constructed the tie slightly differently from the instructions here, but it still looks pretty cool, and feels sturdy but not too heavy.
Hope that helps some fellow tie makers. Thanks again for a great pattern.
x
Thanks for the great pattern! I made a muslin last night and it looks great. However, I have a question about the heavyweight interfacing. Your link goes to SF101, which is a fusible. Do you have a sew-in heavyweight interfacing that you recommend?
Hi Lynn-
This is where the link should go: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/2139
I have just fixed it. We are currently sold out of the correct interfacing but we'd be happy to drop you a line when we get more in. Just email customerservice AT purlsoho DOT com and let them know.
Thank you!
Molly
Hello! I am a little confused with the slip stitch to attach the front and back tie lining. Am I supposed to take just a few threads of the white lining fabric and sew it into the fold of the tana lawn fabric or is it to take a few threads of the tana lawn and sew it into the fold of the lining fabric? Any help would be greatly appreciated! And thanks for the great pattern!
Hi Joanna-
Either way would work but I took a few threads of the Tana Lawn and then sewed through the fold of the lining fabric.
Thank you!
Molly
Thank you for this wonderful tutorial! It was very easy to follow and our tie turned out great 🙂 I'm so glad we found it!
Hello!
I was wondering if the sew-in interfacing would fold over at the edges in the tie if it's only sewn in in the middle?
Thanks 🙂
Hi May M-
I'm not sure I understand your question: There are 2 kinds of interfacing in this project. The thinner one is ironed onto the fabric and then just treated as part of the fabric. The thicker one is a thin strip that just lays in the middle of the tie to stabilize it and make the whole thing a bit thicker.
Please let me know if this answers your question.
Thanks for writing in!
Molly
I was just starting to make this, but I'm having a hard time following along with the pictures and the print-outs. Where does F4 (The front end piece) come in? It looks like you haven't cut it on the bias with the other pieces in the picture, and it seems to be left out of the rest of the picture tutorial entirely. Am I missing something?
Hi Stephanie-
You tape all of the tie front pieces together before you cut the fabric. So F4 is taped (at the dashed line) to F3 before you cut the entire Tie Front. The third picture under the Cutting headline shows how you cut the bias angle at the top.
These photos are cobbled together from two projects, the Little Boy's Tie (blue fabric) and the Father's Day Tie (ecru floral fabric.) The top of the Tie Front piece on the Little Boy's Tie is a bit different so maybe that is where your confusion is coming from?
I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any more questions!
Molly
Hello!
I know that you post this for free so you may not have the time to answer specific details but I thought I would ask anyways…
I made 7 or so of these for my wedding in June 2011 (which means I downloaded the old version of the tie). The finished ties then for 1.5 inches and not 3 inches. I was wondering what is different or how I change the pattern to get the skinny tie again?
Thanks,
Amy
Hi Amy-
We are always happy to answer questions on our free patterns! It is so cool that you made 7 ties for your wedding!
This tie has always been 3-inches wide. The previous versions of the pattern that are referred to in the update had typos but the tie has never been redesigned.
If you'd like to make it thinner you would just need to print this pattern out, and cut the wide end to be about half as wide.
Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Thanks!
Molly
Hi Molly,
I used this pattern to make my husband a tie for Christmas. I used a really great woven wool. It turned out so well. I posted pictures on my blog. Its a great pattern, thanks Molly!!
http://www.domestic360life.com/blog/projects/mens-tie-tutorial-review/
Thanks so much for this great tutorial! I just finished making one of these for my boyfriend yesterday and it turned out beautifully! I'll be making many more for all the men in my life!
Hello,
I don't understand why 1.25 yards of the the heavy interfacing is necessary. I might be misunderstanding something, but it seems to be so much more than needed. I haven't read through the comments, so perhaps you've already answered this question.
I am half-way through the project (I think!), and I'm really looking forward to the end. This is a lovely and professional tutorial for a man's tie, compared to many I've researched. Thank you for providing it for free, as well!
Hi Josephene-
You need that much heavy interfacing because it needs to be cut in one long strip, and not pieced together. You will have a lot left over but luckily it's very inexpensive!
Thank you!
Molly
Awesome!
Hi Molly,
Do you think I could use a mid-weight silk with your pattern? I would hand-stitch everything, but am not sure if it would be stiff/heavy enough.
Thank you!
Hannah
HI Hannah-
I think that would work if you used interfacing as described in the pattern. The fabric I used, Liberty of London Tana Lawn, is very thin and drapey.
Thank you!
Molly
Hi. Lovely pattern! How would I adapt this pattern to make son extra long tie? Specifically, one that is 64 inches long and maybe 4 uncles wide at the widest point?
Hi AJ-
My advice would be to print out and tape together all of the pieces and from there draft new longer, wider pieces. Just add extra to every piece. You will need it to be 8 1/2 inches longer in total so maybe add 3 inches to each of the end pieces and 2 1/2-inches to the neck piece. And cut every piece 1-inch wider.
I hope this helps! Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
I just finished making a tie for my husband with this pattern, and it turned out great! I used the navy Liberty strawberry thief print and he loves it. The first time I cut the piece for the front of the tie, I cut it with the birds upside down–I didn’t think to check whether the print was going the right way. Luckily I had more than enough with 3/4 yard to cut another one, but just a hint for those who might be using a directional print. Thanks for another great project!
I keep getting an error message 403 Forbidden when I go to the template
Hi Kathleen-
Thank you so much for bringing this to our attention. We are working on fixing it now. Sorry for the inconvenience!
Thank you!
Molly
Hi,
This looks like the best tutorial I have seen and have been doing some hunting. I wanted to do a hand rolled, self tipped tie though… would all of the rest of the assembly remain the same but just hand roll instead of sewing on the triangular front and back lining?
Thank you
Hi Hayley-
That sounds like it would work fine and the rest of the assembly should be the same.
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
I NEED TO MOVE TO NEW YORK! The choir will look heavenly this holiday season! With ties, thanks to the Purl Bee .
Thank you,
Kate
With 6 men in my family I want to how you laid this out so you could get two ties out of the one fabric? Thank you
Hi Gloria-
If you see in the second cutting photo the Front piece is kind of centered in the fabric. Instead of doing that you will need to push it all the way to the edge and then you’ll probably be able to get a Middle piece cut on that same fold. For each subsequent piece just make sure to cut as many as you can along each fold and cut them very close to one another. You can also mark all of the pieces with some chalk before you cut them out to make sure you maximize the space!
Thanks for your question and please let us know if you have any more.
Best-
Molly
I am making a tie for a groom in a couple of weeks who is quite tall and wants a double Windsor knot, will this pattern be the right length for double windsor? Or should I add more length on top of the extra because of his height?
Hi Libbie-
I think you should measure a tie that you know works for the groom in a double windsor. This tie is 57 inches and if that’s too short you can follow the instructions in the cutting section to make it longer. I think it’s always better to go a little longer rather than end up with a short tie!
Thanks so much for getting in touch about this and good luck with the project!
Molly
I want to make this for my teenage son but it looks like you are out of the lining and one of the interfacings. Do you have a substitute on your site? I was wondering if you could also give me some other fabric suggestions?
Hi Rachel-
We have more of the interfacing coming in soon! If you’d like to be informed when it comes back please drop us a line at [email protected]
Here is a link to Muslin that would work as the lining (and also keep in mind that you can use any light to medium weight woven fabric you like for the lining!): https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/item/2355-Moda-Moda-Muslin-45-60×60-Count
This tie will work with any light to medium weight woven cotton. I suggest that you check out our selection of…
stripes: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/12-sewing-patchwork-fabric?filters%5B%5D=531
dots: https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/12-sewing-patchwork-fabric?filters%5B%5D=516
and solids! : https://www.purlsoho.com/purl/products/12-sewing-patchwork-fabric?filters%5B%5D=530
I hope this helps! Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
I was looking for something quick to make for my husband for his birthday, as a full size quilt will take too long. I think that making him a tie out of a fabric that is different will be just what I was looking for.
Thanks,
Jodie
Hi,
I really love your tutorial and just bought fabric to make a tie for my boyfriend’s birthday.
I’m a bit confused about how much to add between pieces M1 and M2 and interfacing #14 and #15 to make it the length of a standard 57 inch tie?
I measured the interfacing piece and it seems to be 54 inches. Would I just add 3 inches between the interfacing pieces?
What about M1 and M2? Would I also add 3 inches?
Forgive me if this is a silly question, I don’t sew very much…
Thanks in advance!
Vivien
Hi Vivien-
It’s not a silly question!
The finished size of this tie is 55 1/2 inches long (the interfacing piece is a little shorter than the tie as a whole.) So you should add 1 1/2-inches between pieces M1 and M2. You can also add 1 1/2-inches to the interfacing piece.
I hope this makes sense. If you need any more help please let us know!
Best-
Molly
Hi
I think this is a great idea and plan on trying it. 2 questions for you though… what would be the best way to SHORTEN the tie-the young fella I’m making this for is in his early teens and not that tall yet. Question 2 is, will this pattern and instructions work with silk or satin? And if so, suggestions for the best types of these materials would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Hi Leigh-
Thanks for your questions! I think you might be Ok not shortening it because many people have asked for a longer version. However, if you do end up wanting a shorter version we also have a boys version: https://www.purlsoho.com/create/2009/03/03/mollys-sketchbook-little-boys-tie/
And yes, it will work with tie silk or a stiffer satin.
Please let us know if you have any more questions and good luck with it!
Molly
i have some soft home decor fabric(waverly) that i am using to create some “test” versions of this pattern. would the heavyweight fusing be needed for the entire tie for just the middle “neck/collar” pieces? Also is it possible to use fusable interfacing through out and fuse after doing the ladder stitches to close the seam?
also do you have a pattern for adjustable or fixed size bowties?
Hi Kelly-
If you are using a heavier weight fabric you probably don’t need to use any interfacing at all!
We don’t have a bowtie pattern but we will keep in in mind for the future! Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Hi There,
Thanks for this pattern! Hoping to make it for Hubby for his Bday. Is the new template longer, or do I still need to lengthen it to the standard size as recommended in your notes? Hubby usually does a double windsor knot, and he’s got a bit of a thick neck. RTW ties “just” fit.
Hi Mamie-
This tie is a bit on the short side. I would measure a tie of his that fits well and lengthen it accordingly.
Thank you for your question and please let us know if you need help with anything else!
Molly
I love this pattern! I’ve made it a few times and even taught my 16 year old brother how to make one. Here is my most recent creation, I used Sarah Jane for Michael Miller fabric and made two ties for my brother’s birthday. Thanks Molly for the pattern and tutorial!
http://www.domestic360life.com/uncategorized/beach-worthy-skinny-ties/
If you added the measures in centimeters and not only in inches it would be so much easier to follow the steps
Hi Lala-
We use US customary units because we are based in the US and that is what we are all most comfortable with. However if you’d like to convert these, or any measurements on our site to Metric units it’s easy to do with an online converter like this one: https://support.google.com/websearch/answer/3284611?hl=en#unitconverter
I hope this helps! Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
hi, I left a comment about using a directional print for this. Did you get that question? Do you think it’s possible or can I cut the front piece on the grain? I’m using a liberty animals print I bought from purl. I sent the note a few days ago and haven’t seen a reply posted. Thanks.
Hi Linda-
I’m so sorry we didn’t see your previous question! Sure, you can cut it on grain but it might not hang in quite the same way. I don’t think the Liberty animals will look odd on the bias but if you do you should go for it and cut it just how you like it.
Thank you very much for getting in touch and please let us know if you have any other questions!
Molly
Hi Molly! I left it on the bias and it came out great! Check instagram – I tagged #purlbee. Thanks!!
When I download to print it comes up in my kindle and won’t let me print the pattern. I’m using my tablet. Do you know if there is another way I can print it?
Hi Erin-
I’m so sorry to hear you’re having this problem! Are you talking about the template or the actual pattern?
If you are asking about the pattern- Are you using our print button?. If you’re on a mobile version of the site, you will find a it below the pattern and above the comments. You should be able to follow the easy on-screen instructions to delete whichever parts of the pattern you don’t want to print or save and then print from there. If this isn’t working maybe try from a different browser?
If you are asking about the template- You may want to try just printing it without downloading it first? Or try printing it from a computer instead of a tablet.
I hope this helps! Please let me know if you have any other questions!
Molly
I notice when I printed the pattern, the interfacing is only 2″ wide at its widest point. Help! It seems like this may be a skinny tie??
Hi Maureen-
This tie is 3-inches wide (the width and length of the tie are listed under the “Materials” headline.) The interfacing is just an insert to make it stiffer, it is not the same width as the tie.
Thank you for getting in touch and good luck with the project!
Molly
Hi, this is a follow up question to my previous comment. If I wanted to widen the tie, say an inch, would I add 1/2″ to each side of interlining and 1″ to each side of the front & back pieces (since it’s going to be folded to the center?).
Hi Maureen-
I’m not sure you’ll still need to add width but if you do you should add the width to each long side, say 1/2 inch to each side. Please let us know if you need any more help.
Thanks for getting in touch!
Molly
Thank you! You’ve provided easy to follow, clear instructions on how to make a tie, and pattern pieces. I will bookmark your page for easy reference. Looking at the steps, I feel confident that my project will turn out fantastic!
Gracias por su anuncio.
Very nice pattern. How about one for a bow tie….after all “bow ties are cool” (11th Doctor). My son is 20, has never worn a tie before, but chose to wear a bow tie the only time he had to wear one. I’d like to be able to make him some. Your directions are very clearly written and nice pictures. Keep up the good work.
Hi, thank you for the pattern, but I’m a bit confused. In the first paragraph you say I can make the length of the tie longer by adding pieces M1 and M2 between Interfacing 14 & 15. This just makes the interfacing longer, not the tie. The M1 and M2 pieces don’t seam to fit anywhere else on the tie. Help!
Hi Helen-
You can add length between M1 and M2. They are the middle pieces and they are cut from the fabric, not the interfacing- they go around the neck. I hope this makes sense. Please let me know if you have any more questions!
Molly
Hi there,
I’m a bit confused because in the materials list you say you need two type of interfacing but I can only see in the instructions that you use lightweight fusible. Have I missed something (wouldn’t be surprised if I had!) ?
Hi Rachel-
You use the heavyweight interfacing in the “shaping the tie” section. But you could make a great tie without using the heavier interfacing at all especially if you are using fabric that is thicker than the (very lightweight) Tana Lawn.
Thanks for getting in touch and please let us know if you have any more questions!
Best-
Molly
Hi! I’m a bit late to the tie party, but I just found this tutorial and want to make my husband a tie out of an old Harris Tweed blazer. A couple of questions:
1) Do I need any interfacing at all since it’s a heavier fabric?
2) Any tips on finding the bias when the fabric will be cut out of an existing garment?
Thanks for the tutorial and any direction you may have on the tweed tie idea.
PS I made a Myrtle turtle over the weekend, as well as some baby bonnets…they turned out great! I love all the projects you post!
Hi Shannon-
Great!
1- No, you probably don’t need either interfacing.
2- Just make sure to cut out the end pieces first so they look the best.
This sounds like a great idea! Please let us know how it turns out and let us know if you have any more questions!
Molly
I’m normally a lurker rather than a commenter, but I just wanted to say a huge thankyou for this pattern and tutorial – the tie worked out brilliantly! Thanks so much, Laura
Hi Laura-
Thank you so much. I’m so glad that this worked out for you!
Best-
Molly
Can I use cotton fabric to make the neck tie, or do I have to use silk and or satin?
Hi, Pamela!
Thank you for writing in! You can totally use a cotton fabric to make the neck tie, we used Liberty of London’s Tana Lawn which is 100% cotton. The Tana Lawn is a lightweight cotton and I recommend sticking with a lightweight or quilting weight cotton for this pattern. If you have further questions please let us know!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Thank you so much for these instructions and pattern!
I’ll try to make a tie for my husband, I’ve got some beautiful dark grey jacquard fabric left, I’ll see how it goes 🙂
Hi Molly!
I’ve made two gorgeous ties so far and I’m planning on making some more for gifts out of some great shark print fabric. However, so far, the pieces I’ve cut out have had crooked sides. I was wondering if my pieces are all supposed to have straight edges, or if they’re supposed to dip somewhere in the middle.
Apologies if this has been asked already. There are a lot of comments! Thanks in advance 🙂
JB
I need help troubleshooting this pattern. It keeps going together crooked/wonky. I’ve stitched it and unstitched in 4 times now and it still isn’t working.
Also, I’m unsure why you have an “interface” pattern piece in the PDF when the instructions here state to lay the interface over all of the pattern pieces and fuse it, then re-cut. It’s just a waste of paper and time.
Hi Lady – thank you for writing in. We are so sorry to hear your tie is giving you a headache! Can you give us more details about why the sewing isn’t working for you?
In terms of the interface pattern – we created a PDF of the interface piece so as to minimize the amount of fabric that is treated. Some sewers prefer to only interface the necessary amount of fabric and save the rest for other projects, especially when we are working with something as lovely as Liberty of London! But as with all things crafty, your sewing is your own and if interfacing the entire piece is easier for you – we say, go for it!
Thanks and let us know how we can help with troubleshooting!
Keith
I know this is is MONTHS after your comment.
I like to draw out the pattern in the back of the interface, cut around the drawn line about an inch around, iron it to the back of the fabric and then cut on the line.
This insures that the fabric is as cut as precisely as you can without have to cut everything twice and accidentally ironing the interface to the ironing board.
I do agree that the instructions may be a little confusing since they show one with the iron-on interface on the whole fabric then the other images with a different tie (has different fabric) with the no-sew interface only in the center area.
I’ve started this tie and I’m a little confused, where is the “tie end piece”? I didn’t see it on the pattern.
Hi Emily,
Thanks for writing in! The template for the tie end piece is on the 7th and 8th pages of the pattern template. If you downloaded the pattern before April 6th, 2011 you have an older version, so please download it again.
Best of luck on your tie!
Cassy
I had a couple of problems following the pattern, even after updates. In the instructions and photos, it seems like you want us to iron fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the entire pieces (the comment about fusing to our ironing board), but we’ve cut out narrower strips of interfacing to just fill the inside of the tie. Also, you gave us instructions for where to add length to the middle of the tie, but not how to add length to the interfacing. In addition, the shapes in the pattern for the “lining” pieces aren’t exactly shaped right – the angle of the point doesn’t match the angle of the tie. I had to do some futzing to get them to match.
Hello, Alice!
Thank you for writing in! You are correct, you will be ironing fusible interfacing to the wrong sides of the entire pieces. However, the interfacing that you will be using for this step is the lightweight fusible interfacing. The interfacing that you have cut and will be placing inside the tie in the “Shaping the Tie” section is the Heavyweight Sew-In interfacing.
Regarding the instructions for adding length, you can add length between M1 and M2. They are the middle pieces and they are cut from the fabric, not the interfacing- they go around the neck – so, you don’t need the interfacing here.
Finally, the lining piece should be smaller than the tie so that it can be contained within the borders of the end of the tie. It should be a little bit smaller than the tie end. Is this what you meant by the shapes not being right?
Please let us know if you have further questions! Again, thank you for writing in!
Best,
Kumeko
Great explanation. I feel like this also clarifies Rachel’s confusion and Lady’s question. This is a great pattern and the steps are important to follow. I could see that my pattern started to go a little off kilter because I didn’t tape the pieces together evenly. So the pattern started to turn, instead of being straight. The questions have all helped me to make a better tie! Your pattern is top notch.
Thanks
Jody
Hi
Thanks so much for this tutorial, it looks great. I’ve just printed out the pattern pieces and I’m having a little troubled sticking them together. For example, for the tie front, if I line up the pieces so the fold line is straight it means the other side isnt straight. In particular, piece F3 seems to have a slight curve on the non-condensing side. Is this right or should all of the pieces be straight on both sides?
Thanks
Gemma
Hi Gemma,
Thanks for writing in! I am sorry to hear about your difficulties. Both sides should be straight. I have made this tie recently and did not have an issue with the template. I would suggest trying to print it again and seeing if you are getting the same issue. If you are, you could use a straight edge to draw the line straight and true up the line. You should get a good result from that!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi! Thank you for posting this! Is there a video to also show how to do this? Or do you have any videos you suggest for tie making if you personally don’t have one?
Hi Kelsey,
Thanks for writing in! We do not have a video for this project and I am not aware of one by anyone else. If you are having difficulty with the pattern we are happy to try and help!
Best,
Cassy
Hi, thanks for the tutorial! I made the tie but it came out tiny! Do I need to blow the pattern up? I printed it on a4 paper.
Thanks!
Hello Kristy!
Thank you for writing in! You are right, you’ll need to blow the pattern-up. If your current setting is A4, you’ll want to choose US Legal.
Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Best wishes,
Kumeko
Hello, the F3 pattern piece seems to have a slightly curved edge but in your photos it appears the piece is straight. Is there a mistake in the pattern? I notice someone else posted about this but you said the pattern is straight. You can plainly see just by looking at the pattern that it is not. I’m don’t know if I should cut this piece straight or with the curve, could you please help?
Hi Megan,
Thanks for writing in! I have just printed and cut out the pattern and was unable to recreate the curve that you are speaking of. There should not be a curve and if the pattern is printing with a curve, I would suggest that you cut the piece straight. I’ll try again on another printer and computer to be confirm what might be happening with the printing.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
What should my printer settings be to correctly print this out. I printed it out on 8.5″ x 11″ and it came out to be 8 pages but looks like it would make a tiny tiny tie.
Also, what length does the tie end up being when all said and done?
Thank you so much! (making 6 of these for my wedding next month using Liberty Print Tana Lawn)
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for writing in and best of luck on your wedding crafting! Your printer should be set to 100% to print this pattern properly. The finished dimensions of this tie are 55 1/2-inch long by 3-inch wide. This is slightly shorter than a standard 57-inch long tie. To make it longer you can add the desired additional length between the M1 and M2 neck pieces, and the Interfacing pieces #14 and #15 before you tape the pattern together.
I hope that this helps and happy sewing!
Cassy
I don’t really understand what you mean by set your printer to 100%. Do I need to print on legal size paper or regular 8.5″ x 11″?
Hi Courtney,
Thanks for writing back! You will be printing on 8.5″ x 11″ paper. Generally your printer is set to print at 100% but sometimes it will size things down to fit the page. So when you go to print and the print window comes up, just check to be sure that it is set to print at 100% and that it is not scaling things down!
Best,
Cassy
Thanks Cassy. I also had the same problems, F3 has a curve and it won’t line up straight, even with 100% on 8.5×11 setting. I want to also mention that all pieces don’t line up exactly, they’re about 2mm off from each other. I don’t know why I have this problem. I can also see the F3 curve on the computer PDF file. Please let me know what I can do. Thanks!
Hi Iris,
Thanks for writing in! This is a very early pattern of ours and it is far from perfect. At present we are looking into re-working it or removing it if that is not possible. We do feel like the pattern is achievable as is, if you true it up with a ruler but that it certainly doesn’t meet our current standards for excellence. Thank you very much for reminding us of where we began and how far we’ve come!
Best,
Cassy
thank you very much for the great instructions for making the tie , i already had a good idea but i am so glad i downloaded this instead of trying to do it for i think maybe it would of been funny looking …again thank you …
Is there a alternative for interfacing like elastic or maybe wire or string or maybe even just fabric
Hi Khaddy,
Unfortunately there really is not an alternative to interfacing, it really helps the fabric maintain its shape.
I hope this helps,
Melissa
Best example and directions on making a tie that I have found. I looked at a lot. You are answering my questions. Thank you !
I have a narrow piece of fabric from a formal dress. It’s not wide enough to cut the fabric on the bias. It also has a little stretch to it. Have you done one out of something like this or not cut on the bias and it turned out ok?
Hi Heather,
Thanks for writing in! In general, neck ties are cut on the bias because this helps them lie flat and stay wrinkle free when worn. Even if your fabric has some stretch, bias cut pieces still tend to behave differently and you may find that the tie twists or loses its shape if it is worn for a long period of time. If you don’t have other plans for the fabric, however, it can’t hurt to give it a try!
Best of luck and I hope that helps!
Julianna
When you mention “heavy interfacing” do you mean buckram?
Hi Susan,
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately I think buckram would be a bit too stiff for a tie. We no longer carry the original sew-in interfacing we used for this pattern, so I would suggest using Decor Bond Heavy Fusible Interfacing without fusing it in place. This should give the tie a nice structure without making it overly stiff!
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi, thank you for the amazing tutorial. As a few of the girls before me, I also noticed, that one side of the F3 pattern piece is slightly curved. I can see this on my screen, I haven’t even printed it out. Do you mind checking it? I don’t want to cut the fabric only to realise that there’s something wrong with the pattern.
Thank you!
Laura
Hi Laura,
Thank you so much for reaching out! This is a very early pattern of ours and it is far from perfect. At present we are looking into re-working it or removing it if that is not possible. If you would like to use the pattern, we suggest using a ruler or straight edge to true up the curved edge of the F3 piece – the pattern should still work well with that small adjustment. We do apologize that this template is not up to our usual standards and hope you can understand!
Best,
Julianna
I am still confused is it possible to do one with the regular size please?
Hi Shamara,
Thanks for writing in! The pattern above is for an adult sized tie. If you would like to make the child sized tie, you can find it on our Little Boy’s Tie story.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Hi! I have just stumbled across this! I am fairly new to sewing so this may be a silly question!
I am after a skinny tie pattern but can’t seem to find one! Do you have one or is there an easy way of changing the pattern pieces on this to make them accurate as a skinny tie?
Thank you!
Laura
Hi Laura,
Thanks for reaching out! We don’t have a pattern for a skinny tie, but I think you could easily modify this pattern to make one! After printing and assembling our pattern, you can adjust the angle of the outside edge of the tie on all three pieces to make it as wide or narrow as you like.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi – I used your instructions before and was hoping to re-use them to make another tie but the links to the pictures seem to be broken – any idea why? Thanks!
Hi Simon,
Thank you so much for getting in touch! Unfortunately, we are experiencing some technical difficulties with the images on some of our older projects like this one. Our web team is aware of the problem, however, and is hard at work to fix it! The images should be back within the next few days, but if they still aren’t here, please reach out to us at [email protected]!
Best,
Julianna
Im not sure if it’s just iPhones but the sample pictures to show step by step instructions aren’t loading or have been removed.
Hi Liz,
Thank you so much for getting in touch! Unfortunately, we are experiencing some technical difficulties with the images on some of our older projects like this one. Our web team is aware of the problem, however, and is hard at work to fix it! The images should be back within the next few days, but if they still aren’t here, please reach out to us at [email protected].
All the best,
Julianna
Hi there, I’m really excited to try out this tie, but it seems all the images have disappeared. Is there any chance they’re going to be re-uploaded?
Thanks!
Hi Charlotte,
Thank you so much for getting in touch! Unfortunately, we are experiencing some technical difficulties with the images on some of our older projects like this one. Our web team is aware of the problem, however, and will be restoring the images as soon as they can!
All the best,
Julianna
That’s great news! I’ll keep checking back.
Thank you!
Charlotte
Hi, I can’t see the photos! Any chance they will be back? C
Hi Claire,
Thanks for reaching out! We’re noticing some issues on our website because of a recent update and are still working out some residual kinks. We’re aware of this problem now and are urgently looking into it, so thank you for bringing this to our attention! I’m sure this is frustrating, so we appreciate your patience as we troubleshoot in the meantime. We hope to have the photos back up again soon!
All the best,
Gianna
I am having the same difficulty with the photos not appearing! I am desperate to find a tie pattern that does not have me dizzy! I bought a commercial pattern, but have torn it apart three times! I am not new to sewing, but this is nuts! The ties I made in the 70s were easy. Where is that pattern? I have to make 10 ties for all the men in a family using silk from a departed loved one’s Sari. I can’t mess up! Pictures, please!! (I have used your knitting patterns — love them!)
Hi Tasia,
Thanks for reaching out! We’re noticing some issues on our website because of a recent update and are still working out some problems with missing images. We’re aware of this problem and are urgently looking into it. I’m sure this is frustrating, so we appreciate your patience as we troubleshoot to locate the missing images. We hope to have the photos back up again soon!
All the best,
Gianna
I see that a number of people have reached out regarding the photos. The pattern also does not lead anywhere for me. Thank you for providing this project, I hope you can fix the bugs!
Hi Laura,
Thanks for writing in! We just got this fixed! The photos and the page are back up and running! The pattern is available on the page as well.
All the best,
Gianna
Will this pattern work with a plaid? I’m concerned about the piecing together of the different sections.
Hi KP,
Thanks for reaching out! I think you could certainly use plaid for this pattern, I would just suggest being mindful when you cut the pieces out!
Happy crafting!
Gianna
Is seam allowance already included in the pattern? I’m a beginner so I don’t know what the standard is for seam allowance.
Hi Maxime,
Thanks for writing in! Yes, the seam allowance is already incorporated into the pattern. For this project you’ll be folding the edges and pressing them, which will set up your work for all the stitching and closing up at the end of the pattern. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
Thank you for the great pattern, I used it to make my future husband a tie for our wedding. 🙂 It worked great with the silk material I used, and the instructions are also great, easy to follow, and an extra thanks for including instructions about bias cutting, I’ve never done that before and it turned out really great. My fusible interfacing was a little heavier than ideal, so I just skipped the muslin, it still works fine like this. Thank you again, I really wanted to add a little handmade touch to my groom’s look, and this is just perfect for that!