Brandi Cheyenne Harper For Purl Soho: Brioche Bomber Cardigan
Designer Brand Cheyenne Harper never wastes a stitch. Each one has an intention in her carefully conceived designs, all of them serving the expression of her vision.
For her Brioche Bomber Cardigan, Brandi uses the distinctive ribbing of brioche stitch to carve around the body of the wearer. Like smaller streams joining bigger rivers, the movement in the stitches is all about flow.
And because Brandi loves a design statement, she expresses herself in big, beautiful stitches, unreservedly putting the shaping is on display!
Knit from the bottom up in one piece, the Brioche Bomber Cardigan is a fun, challenging knit: lots of brioche decreases to keep your brain working and very thoughtful ways to knit in tidy edges and a stand-up collar.
For those big, bold stitches, Brandi knit up her cardi in our sumptuous Woolly Wool. Always ready to make a statement, single-ply Woolly Wool is wonderfully plump with a soft and lovely touch. We think it serves Brandi’s purpose beautifully!
Designed (and modeled!) for Purl Soho by Brandi Cheyenne Harper.
Share your progress + connect with the community by tagging your pics with #PurlSoho, #PurlSohoBusyHands, #PurlSohoBriocheBomberCardigan and #PurlSohoWoollyWool. We can’t wait to see what you make!
Materials
- 5 (6, 6, 7) (8, 9, 9) skeins Purl Soho’s Woolly Wool, 100% wool. Each skein is approximately 109 yards/200 grams; approximately 540 (580, 635, 715) (775, 900, 950) total yards required. We used Peach Lily and Heirloom White.
- US 13 (9 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 13, 40-inch circular needles
- US 15 (10 mm), 16-inch circular needles
- US 15, 40-inch circular needles
- A set of US 13 double pointed needles
- A set of US 15 double pointed needles
- Stitch markers
- Stitch holders or scrap yarn
- A Brioche Bomber Cardigan Pattern
GAUGE
6 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches over brioche stitch using larger needles
SIZES
35¼ (40¾, 46, 51¼) (56¾, 62, 67¼)
To fit actual chest circumference of 29-33 (34-39, 40-44, 45-49) (50-55, 56-60, 61-65) inches, with approximately 2–6 inches of ease
- Finished Chest Circumference: 35¼ (40¾, 46, 51¼) (56¾, 62, 67¼) inches
- Finished Length from Shoulder to Hem: 21¾ (23¼, 23¼, 24¾) (24¾, 25, 25½) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Hem: 11 (11, 11, 12) (12, 12, 12) inches
- Finished Length from Underarm to Cuff: 19 inches
Samples: The sweaters shown here are size 40¾, worn with 2 inches of ease.
Pattern
The Brioche Bomber Cardigan is available for purchase as a PDF download only.
Looking for more inspiration? Explore all of our free knitting patterns and knitting tutorials, buy one of our many knitting kits and yarn bundles, and shop for beautiful yarn. We have over 35 gorgeous natural fiber yarns in 100’s of magnificent colors, designed to bring integrity, beauty, and joy to your next knitting project and only available at Purl Soho!
Looks nice, but 2 questions:
(1) Do you have a skill level for this?
(2) Does the bodice have increases or decreases? I’d like to make this a longer cardigan and wonder if I could just add 5″ without worrying about increases/decreases.
Hi Casey,
Thanks for writing in! We don’t rate the difficulty of our patterns because we want people to feel free to try things that are “too hard” for them; we want to encourage people to discover that learning new techniques enriches the process of making. We do try to describe the skills involved with a pattern so that customers know what they’re getting into, but ultimately, we hope that you will take little leaps into the unknown and find that the satisfaction was worth the challenge! Remember, we’re always here to help! As for this pattern, if you’re not familiar with brioche knitting yet, you may want to check out some of our wonderful tutorials, such as One-Color Brioche + Fixing Mistakes, Basic Increase (bk2tog-yo-bk2tog), and Basic Decreases (bsk2p + bk3tog).
In answer to your second question, yes! You can absolutely modify the body of the cardigan to be longer without encountering any increases or decreases. The body portion is worked in plain brioche stitch for a set amount of inches, so you could easily modify this number. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
This is beautiful! Thoughts on using Gentle Giant instead (I happen to have a serious surplus…)?
Hi Sarah,
I think Gentle Giant would work really well for this pattern! As always, we recommend making a gauge swatch before starting a project to be sure you’re working with the right needles, especially when substituting yarns.
All the best,
Lili
It’s a beautiful sweater. Can someone who has not knitted anything with brioche stitches knit this easily?
Hi Donna,
Thanks for writing in. I’m so happy to hear that you’re interested in knitting this pattern and learning the brioche stitch! It’s a really fun technique. I would definitely recommend getting familiar with the stitch before starting the pattern, perhaps by making some swatches to practice. I also want to let you know that we have some great tutorials related to brioche knitting, including One-Color Brioche + Fixing Mistakes, Basic Decreases (bsk2p + bk3tog), and Basic Increase (bk2tog-yo-bk2tog). While the pattern may be a bit of a challenge at first, overcoming challenges and learning new things are some of the most rewarding parts of knitting!
All the best,
Lili
Hi there, I am a little confused about the gauge given for this pattern.
Can you please clarify for the row count, if the 16 rows are 16 rows knitted in brioche (as in 8 rows back and 8 rows forth making a count of 8 knit loops), or should I have a count of 16 knit loops over 4 inches? Thanks in advance for your time.
Hi Tracey,
Thanks for reaching out. In order to count the row gauge in brioche stitch, you’ll count each “V” of a raised row! So in this case, you’ll want to have 16 “V”s in 4 inches. This actually does end up being 8 right side rows and 8 wrong side rows. Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Thank you. 😊
Hi there! I purchased this pattern and I cast on a sleeve already. I love it!
I have 13″ upper arms and 40″ chest. I want to knit size 3, with a 46″ finished circumference. However size 3 has 15.25″ finished arm circumference – this seems too small to me.
Can you help me figure out if I can follow the instructions for size 4 sleeves but size 3 body?
Thank you!
Mimi
Hi Mimi,
Thanks for reaching out. This cardigan was designed to fit with 2-6 inches of positive ease, and you would have 2.25 inches of ease if you knit the sleeves as written! In fact, for all of the sizes, the ease in the sleeves is likely to be less than the ease around the chest, so I believe that the third size will fit you very well.
I’m sorry to say that knitting this pattern with sleeves from a different size would take a lot of modifications, and we do not currently have the resources to make them. If you’re still worried about the size of the sleeves, I would recommend knitting the fourth size as written. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
Gorgeous sweater – and designer!! You are wonderful to feature Ms. Harper as the model – thank you for your whole site! : )
Hello, I’m preparing to embark on the yoke and as I’m reading ahead I see “work 7 rows even”. Does this mean 7 rows in total, or 7 right side rows+7 wrong side rows (so 14 rows in total)? Thank you!
Hi Mo,
Thanks for reaching out. “Work 7 rows even” means to work just 7 rows in total! It will end up being 4 wrong side rows and 3 right side rows. Hope this helps clarify the instructions!
All the best,
Lili
Fantastic, thank you for such a quick response! 🙂
Hello! I purchased this pattern, and I’m loving it so far! However, as a new-to-brioche-knitter, I’m struggling with the sleeve cuffs. I’m not getting a tight knit cuff, it is more like the loose brioche sleeve. The pattern is reading like brioche, but not brioche. Do you have any recommendations for additional tutorials or a keyword I might search? Might this just be a gauge issue?
Thanks in advance for any advice you can send my way!
Hi Christina,
Thanks for reaching out. The stitch that’s used for the sleeve cuff is a variation on 1×1 ribbing, so it should be pretty stretchy! I’d recommend knitting a few more rounds and seeing how it looks after that. I often find, when knitting any sort of ribbing, that it tends to look looser at the beginning, when the stitches are more spread out on the needles.
If you’re still finding that the cuffs are too loose, then it may be a gauge issue. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I was overcomplicating the ribbing! It’s looking SO much better. Thank you!
Hello! Love the look of this pattern and have purchased it! I’m actually wanting to knit it as two-color brioche and wandered if the designer or anyone who has knitted it as two-color had any suggestions on alterations or specific cast on/edges etc. in order to do it? Thank you!
Hi Kiley,
Thanks for reaching out! I haven’t heard of anyone trying this yet in two-color brioche and don’t believe the designer has tried that either, but I think it would look absolutely lovely for this pattern! I would suggest working a swatch first to see how it comes out and if the gauge is still consistent!
I hope this helps and please let us know how this turns out!
Gianna
Hello!
First of all, I am really loving this pattern. In fact I am so close to done I can taste it.
But here in lies the problem. I am attempting to do the collar (Join right side of collar to back neck) but something seems off. When I go to do the third short row, where it says to slip 1 purlwise tbl wyib, the stitch on my needles looks like brioche stitch. Is this right? If so, do I slip the yarnover and knit stitch purlwise together? If this isn’t right, can you help me figure out what went wrong? I have frogged this portion at least 8 times now and I still can’t make it look right.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Megan
Hi Megan,
Thanks for reaching out! Please send the information above along with a clear photo of your work to our customer service team at [email protected] and they can help troubleshoot what may be going on from there!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hi there did you ever figure this out? I’m at the same point in the pattern and facing the same confusion
Hi Mimi,
It doesn’t look like the original commenter ever reached out to us by email! If you’re experiencing the same thing, I’d recommend doing what Gianna suggested and sending a photo of your work to [email protected] so we can take a closer look!
All the best,
Lili
Hello,
I am an experienced free-form knitter. This is the first time I have tried knitting from a pattern. It is definitely connecting me with the learning process, and it is fun but tricky. In the directions below, I don’t see what happens with the second stitch marker (I don’t understand the double asterisk). I am having the same reading comprehension issue with joining the sleeves to the body. Could you write it out for me, and/or please explain the double asterix? Thanks in advance for your help,
Sincerely,
Pauline
Division Row (wrong side): K2, [*bk2tog, YOS, repeat from * to 2 (2, 2, 3) (3, 3, 3) stitches before next marker, k1 tbl, k1 (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2), remove marker, k1 (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2), slip last 2 (2, 2, 4) (4, 4, 4) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Underarm, k1 tbl, YOS] 2 times, **bk2tog, YOS, repeat from ** to last 3 stitches, bk2tog, slip 2 wyif. [53 (61, 69, 77) (85, 93, 101) total stitches remain: 13 (15, 17, 19) (21, 23, 25) stitches for each Front; 27 (31, 35, 39) (43, 47, 51) stitches for Back]
Hi Pauline,
Thanks for reaching out, and I’m happy to hear that you’re taking the plunge into written patterns! I can absolutely help clarify the Division Row for you.
The first thing that’s important to take into account are the square brackets ([]). The open bracket appears directly before “*bktog,” and the close bracket appears directly after “YOS.” I’ve bolded them below so you can see exactly where they are:
Division Row (wrong side): K2, [*bk2tog, YOS, repeat from * to 2 (2, 2, 3) (3, 3, 3) stitches before next marker, k1 tbl, k1 (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2), remove marker, k1 (1, 1, 2) (2, 2, 2), slip last 2 (2, 2, 4) (4, 4, 4) stitches onto stitch holder or scrap yarn for Underarm, k1 tbl, YOS] 2 times, **bk2tog, YOS, repeat from ** to last 3 stitches, bk2tog, slip 2 wyif.
Once you work through all of the instructions prior to the close bracket, you’ll see the words “2 times.” This means to repeat everything that’s enclosed within the brackets again before moving on in the row. So you’ll begin from the *bk2tog after the open bracket, work to the YOS before the close bracket once more, and then you can move on to the remainder of the line. This accounts for the second marker, because you will remove it on the second repeat of the bracketed material.
In answer to your other question, the double asterisks (**) are also a way to notate repetition within the line. They function in the exact same way as the single asterisks (*) that occur earlier on, meaning that you repeat the instructions within them until you reach the last 3 stitches. Then you can move on to the remainder of the line. In this case, the double asterisks are used for this only to differentiate them from the single asterisks earlier on.
I hope this helps clarify things for you!
All the best,
Lili
The Special Instructions tell me to
begin each row with K2 and end the row with slip 2 purlwise. Am I correct in thinking that Foundation Row 3 (long-tail tubular) ends with slip 2 wyif then 2 slips purlwise? Thank you.
Hi Cecelia!
Thank you for your great question! The two I-Cord Selvedge stitches are written into the pattern, so for Foundation Row 3, I would work it as written, which includes the k2 in the beginning (as part of the k3) and the slip 2 wyif at the end, which is the slip 2 purlwise, since all slipped stitches are slipped purlwise in this pattern. You will only have to work Foundation Row 3 as written and not add any additional stitches.
I hope this helps!
All the best,
Margaret
Can this pattern be knit with Lovebird? Those colors in Lovebird are just stunning! Lovebird uses a US 10-11 needle (while Wooly Wool uses a 13) =( .
Hi Lauren,
Thanks so much for your comment! I would not recommend Lovebird for this pattern since it’s a much thinner yarn than Woolly Wool. We recommend Lovebird in conjunction with US 10-11 needles and Woolly Wool with US 15 or 17 needles since the gauges are so different. Here’s our collection of Lovebird patterns in case you might like to take a look! I hope this helps!
All the best,
Cat
I’m puzzled by the directions for the Increase Row that precedes the yoke (see below). Where does the increase take place?
Increase Row (right side): K2, *YOS, bk2tog, repeat from * to 1 (1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2) stitch(es) before next marker, yarn over (yo), p1 (1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2), sm, p1 (1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2), yo, bk2tog] 2 times, **YOS, bk2tog, repeat from ** to last 3 stitches, YOS, slip 2 wyif. [57 (65, 73, 85) (93, 101, 109) stitches]
Hi Cecilia,
The increases in this row are created by the additional yarn overs! These yarn overs are not associated with a slipped stitch, so they won’t for a brioche paired stitch. They’ll just act as individual increased stitches! I’ve highlighted where they occur in the row:
Increase Row (right side): K2, *YOS, bk2tog, repeat from * to 1 (1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2) stitch(es) before next marker, yarn over (yo), p1 (1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2), sm, p1 (1, 1, 1) (2, 2, 2), yo, bk2tog] 2 times, **YOS, bk2tog, repeat from ** to last 3 stitches, YOS, slip 2 wyif. [57 (65, 73, 85) (93, 101, 109) stitches]
Hope this helps clarify things!
All the best,
Lili
Yes! Thank you!
Hello,
I’m knitting size 51&1/4 and I’m at the “All sizes” increase row at the top of page 3. It says to YOS, bk2tog, repeat until 1 stitch before marker and then yarn over. However, after doing the previous increase row for the larger sizes, should this actually be until 2 stitches before the marker like the parentheses for the 3 larger sizes?
Thanks
Hi Selina,
Thanks for reaching out about this! I agree with you that you should be working in the brioche pattern up until 2 stitches before the marker (and working 2 stitches after the marker before restarting the brioche as well). I’ve brought this issue up with our design team and they’re working on updating the pattern as we speak! Thank you so much for bringing this to our attention!
All the best,
Lili
I need help! I completed my first sleeve up until the Increase…the pattern says to finish Rounds 1 and 2 (for size 40 3/4) ending in Round 2 and then start the Increase Round with P1, yo, *bk2tog, etc.- but the stitches that I finished with the last Round 2 dont correspond to the Increase Round stitches…what have I got wrong here?
Hi Kathleen,
Thanks for writing in, and we’re happy to help figure this out with you! After you complete the last repeat of Round 2, you should have the following stitch order: single stitch (a purl stitch), doubled stitch (from the YOS), single stitch (from the bp2tog), double stitch, single stitch, etc…. I’d recommend double checking to see if your stitches match that first!
If so, then here’s how the Increase Round fits into that: You start by purling the first stitch, which you’ve also been doing on Rounds 1 and 2. Then, you work a yo (a regular yo, not a YOS!), which is positioned between the stitch you just purled and the next stitch. Next, you work a bk2tog on the following stitch, which is the first doubled stitch. Then you just keep working in brioche stitch (alternating bk2tog’s and YOS’s until you reach the last 3 stitches. To finish the round, you work a bk2tog on the final doubled stitch, then work a regular yo between this and the final stitch, and then purl the final stitch.
I hope this helps clear things up, but please let me know if any other questions come up as you knit!
All the best,
Gavriella
I am currently knitting up this pattern in a size 62 and I’m almost finished but I am now at where you need to start to collar. I followed the pattern and counted the stitches and finished the yoke section with the 41 stitches on my needle but at the start of the collar there are suddenly only 37 stitches noted, more on the start of the needle than the end. so should I do another decrease row to end up with 37 stitches on my needle before starting on the collar or should I make up some stitches for the set up row of the collar.
Hi Puck,
Thanks for writing in! 41 stitches is the correct stitch count for size 62 at this point. Can you let me know where you’re seeing a stitch count of 37 for this size? Sounds like you’re on the right track already though!
All the best,
Lili
Kathleen here (again!)….I’ve completed the sleeves but am baffled as to joining them to the body. I watched your video on joining sleeves to the body so have an idea but am still baffled.
How to tell which side of the body is right/wrong? How does one line up the stitches to join the sleeves to the body?
Are you able to provide a visual of some kind? Thanks so much…you’ve been so so helpful and I’m determined to finish this gorgeous sweater 🙂
Hi Kathleen,
Thank you for reaching out! Unfortunately we do not currently have an additional visuals for this pattern but we can certainly help you get back on track.
First you will want to identify your right side and wrong sides of the body stitches, if you did a tubular cast-on then the sides should be identical and you could technically choose either side as your right side. If you did a long tail cast-on, then the side with the “dashes” is the right side, and the side with the purl bumps is the wrong side.
To join your sleeve to body stitches, you will want to make sure the on-hold stitches for the sleeves are parallel to your body stitches once you are ready to join them together. I hope this helps!
All the best,
Gavriella
Meaning on hold stitches for the sleeves are parallel to the on hold stitches for the body? and those are the stitches that you start with?
Unfortunately no, I’m still confused. When I hold the on hold body stitches parallel to the on hold sleeve stitches, It has the working yarn from the body ready to knit the middle of the sleeve, almost opposite of the on hold stitches.
When it says, “Joining Row (right side); Return to Body with right side facing you, and using working yarn attaches to body, k2 (you, bk2tog) 6 times across right front stitches”- is it the right front stitches across the body or across the sleeve?
Hi Kathleen,
Could you please send a photo to [email protected] so we can have a deeper look? We’ll be able to better visualize what’s going on that way!
All the best,
Gavriella