Steek with Knit Facing
Steeks may not be for the faint of heart, but nor should knitters be intimidated by them! We aim here to make steeks approachable… and even fun!
In knitting, “steek” is an old Scottish word that refers to a specific group of extra stitches that are for future cutting. A steek is often used to create an opening (like the front of a cardigan or an armhole) or a place to attach another piece (such as a sleeve). Steeks are primarily used in circularly knit garments and are closely associated with stranded colorwork, like Fair Isle. Steeking makes it possible to create the colorwork in the round (much easier than flat!) and to then transform the tube into a vest, cardigan or Henley. And even if you’re not working elaborate color work but love to avoid purling, steeks may be your new best friend!
Today, steek commonly refers to the entire multistep process, including preparing, cutting, and finishing. There are lots of ways to do all this, and below, we demonstrate our favorite technique. We especially like it because it only involves knitting, without the use of sewing machines or crochet hooks! And so, here’s a Steek with Knit Facing…
Read on for written instructions plus a still-photo tutorial, or jump right into your first steek project with our Learn-to-Love-Steeks Blanket, pictured below.
To Make a Mini Sample
The first time you try steeking, you may want to do it on a simple knit tube, rather than on your finished knitting. Here’s how…
Materials
- Main Yarn (worsted weight) + corresponding set of double pointed needles or 16-inch circular needles
- Facing Yarn (light worsted/dk weight) + 2 corresponding 20-inch circular needles
- Spare Needle: 1 needle (straight, circular or double pointed), same size as Facing Yarn needles
- Two stitch markers, different colors
- Removable stitch marker or scrap yarn
Gauge
IMPORTANT: The Facing Yarn’s stitch gauge needs to equal the Main Yarn’s row gauge. For example, if the Main Yarn’s gauge is 17 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch, then the Facing Yarn’s gauge needs to be 24 stitches and xx rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch. (The row gauge of the Facing Yarn is less important than the stitch gauge.)
Pattern
Knit a Tube
With the Main Yarn and double pointed or 16-inch circular needles, cast on 13 stitches, place marker, cast on 25 more stitches. [38 stitches]
Place a different color marker and join for working in the round, being careful to not twist the stitches.
Round 1: Knit to next marker, sm, p1, k10, p1, knit to end of round.
Repeat Round 1 until piece measures about 8 inches from cast-on edge.
Bind off knitwise.
Weave in the ends.
Steek
NOTE: Place a removable stitch marker or piece of scrap yarn on the bind-off edge to help you keep track of which end is which.
Prepare First Facing
Turn tube inside out, and orient it so the cast-on edge is closer to you. You will see two pronounced columns of knit stitches.
With one of the 20-inch circular needles and the Facing Yarn, start at the cast-on edge and work towards the bind-off edge, picking up under both legs of each stitch of the knit-stitch column on the right.
Working these picked up stitches…
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one more time.
Cut yarn and leave the stitches on the needle.
Prepare Second Facing
Orient the piece so the bind-off edge is closer to you.
With the second 20-inch circular needles and the Facing Yarn, start at the bind-off edge and work towards the cast-on edge, picking up under both legs of each stitch of the knit-stitch column now on the right.
Working these picked up stitches…
Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 one more time.
Cut yarn and leave the stitches on the needle.
Cut!
Turn the piece right side out.
NOTE: If the yarn you used is very slippery, or if you are worried that the stitches will unravel after you cut them, secure each side of the steek with thread before cutting. Sew one or two lines of stitches down each side of the center of the steek (on stitches 5 and 6 of 10), either by hand with a needle and thread or with a sewing machine. This step was not necessary for the sample because the yarn is sticky enough that it would not unravel easily in the time it takes to secure the facings.
Between the two purl columns there is a column of 10 knit stitches. Beginning at the cast-on edge and working towards the bind-off edge, carefully cut up the exact middle of these 10 knit stitches for the entire length of the tube. As you cut the fabric, the two new edges are going to curl under. That’s okay, let them.
There are now 5 knit stitches at each newly-cut edge.
Fold + Secure First Edge
Orient the piece so the cast-on edge is closer to you.
Identify the column of stitches in the middle of the left-hand edge, the third stitch of the five. In the following section you will work along this center column, picking up into each row and knitting the picked-up stitch together with a stitch from the corresponding Facing, working from the cast-on edge towards the bind-off edge and binding off as you go. Here’s how…
Beginning at the cast-on edge, insert the spare needle under both legs of the first stitch in the center column, then insert the spare needle into the first stitch on the circular needles, with the Facing Yarn, knit these two together, *insert the spare needle under both legs of the next stitch in the center column and the next stitch on the circular needles, k2tog, pass second stitch on spare needle over stitch just worked to bind off 1 stitch, repeat from * to end of column/last stitch on circular needles.
You now have a precise fold with the raw edge sandwiched and secured between the facing and the main fabric.
Fold + Secure Second Edge
Orient the piece so the bind-off edge is closer to you.
Once again, identify the center (third) column of stitches between the purl column and the now-left-hand edge. You will work along this center column similarly to how you did in the previous section, but remember, you’re now looking at the fabric upside down, so you’ll insert the spare needle under both legs of an upside-down V rather than a right-side-up V.
Beginning at the bind-off edge, insert the spare needle under both legs of the first stitch in the center column, then insert the spare needle into the first stitch on the circular needles, and with the Facing Yarn, knit these two together, *insert the spare needle under both legs of the next stitch in the center column and the next stitch on the circular needles, k2tog, pass second stitch on spare needle over stitch just worked to bind off 1 stitch, repeat from * to end of column/last stitch on circular needles.
Finish
Use a tapestry needle and a length of Main Yarn to sew closed the top and bottom of the channel created from securing the main fabric to the facing.
Weave in remaining ends.
Thank you!! Now I have the courage to steek my knitting when it is a solution. The channels are especially nice for the edges. For some those that are new to knitting in the round, it is easier for them to master just one stitch and then…..muster up the courage to steek.
This is really interesting! Despite having knit for years, I am only just tackling my first steeked sweater and exploring my options. I will make a swatch and try this technique out. Thank you.
Very Cool! I’m anxious to try this. L-O-V-E your video technique, nice detail and clarity 🙂
Oh,my…what a great, clear video and print instructions! Thank you. I now feel seeking is possible for me to accomplish!
Julie
Thank you for a beautifully produced tutorial. I have been knitting daily for 54 years … Yes that’s right! 54! Your finishing is nice and neat by eliminating the tussle moving an item under the sewing machine needle, or movement of crocheting. I am very impressed. I am going to try it right away. Thanks again.
Sharon E
B R A V O!
Thank you for the very detailed tutor. I’ve found it easier to pick up the 1st steek row and knit/bind off together the central column of the cut part and the last steek row using a knook needle or a crochet hook and then transfer to knitting needles if needed to.
Why and what situation would you use this process? I love the finished edges of the blanket in the photo. Was that a tube that then had the ‘steeking’ applied to the edges to produce a more finished look? Then it would only have that on the side edges and not top and bottom? I’m not sure I understand the use and why they would be used. Maybe someone can enlighten me?
Thanks for a well done, clearly demonstrated video.
Hi Terri,
I’d be glad to enlighten you! For this blanket, you can knit in the round, which is faster and more comfortable for most people. Sometimes when knitting a blanket it is laborious to have to turn it after every row, so knitting in the round is helpful. Only the edges of this blanket have facings, but if you wanted to do a faux facing on the cast on and bind off edges, it’s totally doable. In general, people use steeks primarily for color work because you can knit color work with more even tension in the round. However, when doing an armhole, neckline or front opening on a color work garment in the round you need to steek the knitting in order to achieve your desired shape. Hope this clears up steeking and I really hope you’ll give it a go!
-Adam
Great tutorial, as usual ! I am wondering if this technique might help with stopping a stockinette-stitched edge from curling?? It appears that way in the images of the blanket…
Hi Steph,
Thanks for the kind comment! This technique would definitely stop stockinette from curling. You can add a facing to a stockinette piece without steeking if you’d like.
All the best,
Adam
Ok this is a disappointment, I’ve got a real mess! First of all trying to juggle all of these needles is difficult, secondly, if your eye sight is at all impaired it’s insane. Then after messing with it for hours I finally got it bound off and my stitches are too tight and it’s all scrunched up. Now I’m going to try to rip it out, again, and bind off with much looser stitches, but I anticipate a real mess because I’ve had to rip it out so many times. I will probably just try to pick up and knit a different edge.
Hi Cynthia,
Thanks for writing in! I am so sorry to hear that you are having difficulties. The technique can be a bit tricky until you get the hang of it! Steeking is generally seen as scary technique (cutting your knitting!) and with the technique we are using here, we are attempting to take a little of the fear out. That said, it can add a bit of complication in that you are managing a few needles on your work!
If you are having difficulties with tighter bind offs, you can always go up a needle size when binding off. I find that this can help quite a bit! For the multiple needles, I totally understand! I have tried using removable stitch markers to hold them back and away from the working section to ensure that they are not in my way.
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Hi there,
Is there any way to do this with garter stitch? I have a piece that’s both knit and garter but I can’t find anything out there, everything I’ve been able to find about steeking is all with regards to knit stitches. Thanks!
Hi Megan,
Great question! I also can’t find any information on steeking garter stitch, so you might be entering uncharted knitting territory! If you are considering steeking something that you have already knitted without planning to steek it you may run into additional challenges, since usually garments that will be steeked have special stitches set aside, marked off by two columns of purls as you can see in our tutorial, which makes it much easier to pick up stitches for the facing and compensates for the fact that a cut and finished steek will remove an inch or two from the circumference of your sweater or garment. Also, if you are doing a facing, you will want to use a much smaller yarn and needle size than your main one, since the row gauge of garter stitch is smaller than stockinette.
If you decide to give it a try, I would suggest trying it on a swatch before attempting it on your finished piece, and please let us know how it goes! You might be about to invent a new knitting technique!
Best of luck and happy steeking!
Julianna
This is Brilliant! I’ve seen steeking videos before but never felt like I could successfully complete it. Thanks to your video, I’m about to tackle it. Thanks so much for such a beautifully done video.
I love how straightforward this technique is. I’m going to be doing a the test like the post suggested but I’m wondering how to use this technique with color work and floats? Are there any medications that need to made?
Hi Kristen,
Thanks for writing in! No medications needed; just a steady hand and a steely heart! This technique would work well with fair isle color work. As always, i would recommend knitting a swatch in pattern and trying out this technique on the test swatch! This also helps with your confidence when you are ready to steek the final project!
Best of luck!
Cassy
Thanks Cassy! Thanks great news! Yes, I will definitely be making a few test swatches to practice on and get the hang of before actually cutting into the body of my latest project. But this leads me to another question. The pattern I’m working with has a 5 stitch steek. Do you think it would be possible to keep the pattern as is or should I modify it and add the two purl and 10 knit stitches? Thanks again!
Kristen
HI Kristen,
Thanks for writing back! In order to use this technique as written, you will need the full amount of stitches (10) for the steek. With fewer stitches, you would make a smaller facing and I am afraid that 5 stitches might not be sufficient for a workable facing. You may also want to play with this in the swatching to see if you can get away with fewer stitches or you could just add the additional stitches to the steek section on your project!
Best,
Cassy
Thanks for letting me avoid crocheting a steek :->
I’m going to use this method on fairisle blanket squares, can you please tell me, does the column of purl stitches actually end up on the edge fold of your sample square? Thanks
Hi Zoe,
Thanks for writing in and for your kind words! On our samples, there is no purl ridge visible that is associated with the steek. I would also highly suggest knitting a swatch to practice this technique. This will also give you a good idea of how it looks when finished and should take but a small amount of time to complete!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
What a great tutorial!
I am wondering if this would work if you were making a cardigan that was going to have button holes (adding panels in the front after the work has been cut) or would another steeking technique would need to be used?
Hi Jenn,
Thank you so much for your kind words! I think that this could certainly work for a cardigan that would have additional button bands. This technique will just encase the ends that you might traditionally cover with a gros grain ribbon. You can certainly try an alternate technique as well but I do think that this one would work. We do use more stitches between the steek here than other patterns and you would just need to take that into account!
Best,
Cassy
This is nice and neat with single color knitting, but the picking up and binding off technique could be very complicated with multi-stranded color work.
Hi Susan,
Thanks for writing in! This technique could be a bit more challenging with complicated color work but I do think that it could still work well. Ultimately, the knit facings help cover all of the cut ends and incorporate them in. I’d be anxious to know how well it worked on more complicated color work!
Thank you for your thoughts!
Cassy
What a wonderful technique and tutorial. It seems to me that with using this technique on a cardigan you will have that indentation, caused by the purl rows on each side of the steek, showing on the right side of your garment when the process is completed and then button bands knitted on. Do I understand that correctly? I love the idea of the cut edge being encased in the facing but I don’t know if I’d like the purl stitch line going down the front of my sweater.
Hi Patricia,
Thank you for your kind words! I think that you are correct. There will be an indentation due to the facing. You can see a bit of it if you check out our Tiny Stripe Cardigan and Vest. To avoid the purl bump, you can pick up for the button band a stitch further in from the purl edge and avoid it!
Best,
Cassy
So where would I pick up for the button band. In the original purl row???
Hi Leslie,
Thanks for writing in! We have not worked this particular steak with a button band but my suggestion would be to pick up in the original purl row or in the very first knit stitch on the front side. It may take a bit of trial and error to see which sits in a more pleasing fashion but it should work out well!
I hope that this helps!
Cassy
Tutorial was very clear, and the first time I’ve seen this facing technique. Question: I can see this would work beautifully for a straight cut, but what if you are doing shaping decreases on either side of steek, for example if you are planning to steel a scooped neck? Would any tweaks be necessary? Thanks
Hi Marilyn,
Thanks for reaching out! Generally, the stitches for a steek and facing should be planned from the beginning of a garment and should not be included in any shaping – for your specific example of a scooped neck sweater, scoop necks usually begin by casting off a certain number of stitches in the center of the neck before beginning shaping on either side, and the steeked portion would also be cast off at that time. If you are modifying an existing pattern you would need to add stitches to the cast on of the front to accommodate the steek and facing, but a pattern that was written to be steeked would already include these stitches.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
I have a small question. I’ve only watched the video, haven’t tried it yet, but I’m wondering why you cut the facing yarn between knitting the facing rows and doing the final knitting together and binding off. It seems like it is creating more ends to weave in than is necessary. Looking a little more closely, perhaps it is because you end the facing knitting at the wrong end? At first I didn’t see how this mattered, but I guess in knitting together you want to hold it so that the garment is in front of the facing? If one knit an odd number of facing rows, though, then the yarn I believe would be at the correct end. Would this work? Perhaps five rows of facing would make it too wide, although it seems like one could increase or decrease the number of knitted stitches in the steek (8 or 12) if that was the case to match an odd number of rows. Perhaps this is too much work just to save weaving in an end, but it’s more of a thought experiment on my part to make sure I understand how it all works.
Hi Nicole,
Great question and brainstorming about steeks! Although it is possible to complete the facing without cutting your yarn to eliminate a few ends, it’s slightly trickier because you would either have to work one more row in the facing or pick up the stitches with the facing towards you, which makes them slightly harder to see. You will also have to work one complete facing before cutting the steek and then pick up and work the second facing after cutting to completely eliminate the extra tails, unless you have two balls of yarn! Although it requires a bit more mental gymnastics, you can certainly eliminate the extra tails if you are up to the challenge!
Best of luck and happy knitting!
Julianna
This is a great video. I have used steeks before but I always had to figure out a way to hide the raw edge. This is perfect. Also, if you want to add button bands you can pick up stitches along the purl columns and the facing will fold to the inside. At least it did on my swatch.
Morning! Wonderful tutorial! I’m wondering why the right side up V and then the upside down V? Why not start at the cast on edge for both facings? You would just have to pick the stitches up purlwise, correct? Then the four rows would be purl, knit, purl, knit?
Hi Katie,
Great question! If you were to pick up both sets of stitches beginning at the cast on edge, you are correct that you would have to pick up the second set purlwise to make the facings match. Since most knitters are more comfortable with picking up knitwise, our tutorial has you rotate the work so you can use the same method for both facings, but if you are comfortable with picking up purlwise, you certainly can and the two facings will match!
Best,
Julianna
I would love to try the swatcht, but what size needles?
Hello Cathy,
Thank you for reaching out! This will all depend on the yarn that you choose to use. In our Learn-to-Love-Steeks Blanket we used our Worsted Twist on a US 8 needle for the main yarn and our Cashmere Merino Bloom on a US4 for the Facing yarn.
Essentially you just need to use the needle recommended for the yarn that you are using.
Happy steeking!
-Marilla
I knitted several sweaters for a friend of mine who has now lost weight and the sweaters are much too large for him. I searched and searched for information on how to alter knitted garments and found nothing. However, in talking to a fellow knitter, I learned about steeking. Although all the instructions only mention using it when knitting patterns on circular needles, I believe the steek method can be applied to altering sweaters and other knitted garments, as well. I haven’t tried it yet, but feel confident I can now make the sweaters smaller so my friend can still wear them.
Thank you very much for this tutorial and the very clear film ! It’s great ! No more sewing machine to use for those kind of edges.
I absolutely love your website tutorials. So professional and trusted; thank you for sharing.
Hi there,
I’m getting ready to cast on the Tiny stripes cardigan! Is there a particular cast on you recommend or prefer to avoid when it will be steeked? I was going to do provisional, but not sure if that’s the best idea..
thank you!
Hello Michelle,
Thank you for reaching out! For this project I would recommend using the Long Tail cast, though you could also use the Cable Cast on.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
I didn’t even know I needed this on a special baby blanket I want to knit and gift. I wanted to do random thickness stripes in blue and milk white (my name for a lesser yellow cream) but those yarn ends are such a pain to hide and hiding isn’t attractive as far as I am concerned.
So steeking the sides with the colour I used the lesser of in the blanket will be my steek edging colour.
Can you suggest a combination and yarn that I will treat myself to knit with and for this baby boy to feel he is on a cloud made with love.
I have knitted and crocheted for 63 years years and I turned 68 on the 21/07/2019.
I some how landed on the page with that stunning fair isle shawl/scarf and enjoyed a journey of baby wool felt booties, Christmas wreaths and gift tags as well as embroidery (the cardinal is a future gift to myself soon).
I will await your choses as baby is due near his mum’s 44th birthday. First and very long awaited natural pregnancy after giving up. Who hasn’t heard that before.
I will continue knitting beanies, booties with sheep skin sole and wool inside, hooded jacket and matching socks that will keep him warm on those unpredictable Winter’s days in Melbourne Australia.
Thanks for being gifted and sharing your creations with us addicted to quality yarn and using them in gifting them to others.
You know I still haven’t made myself that elusive special beanie, knitted at least 200 for babies I will never see through St Kilda Mums
Have a wonderful day.
Hi Francien,
Thanks for reaching out – what a lucky baby this will be surrounded by so many lovely handknits! I would suggest using our Worsted Twist in True Tourquoise and Heirloom White, or Manos del Uruguay Maxima in Stratus and Natural if you prefer a lighter blue. Both yarns are wonderfully soft and perfect for babies’ delicate skin!
Happy knitting!
Julianna
how wonderful! – this technique has me thinking I could use it with a raglan pullover pattern I’m itching to knit as a cardigan – would I just have to add an extra 12 stitches to the centre front (P, K10, P) and continue on as directed in the pattern? –
thanks for what you do! –
Janis
Hi Janis
That is a great question! As long as it doesn’t interfere with your pattern shaping, I think it would work! This wouldn’t be a button band, so if you wanted to add that, a different steeking technique would be better. I would recommend trying a swatch out with your yarn, just to make sure you like the look before you start!
Hope this helps and happy knitting!
Jessica
thanks for your reply Jessica! – I’ll give it a go …. could you point me in the right direction for a steeked buttonband as that’s another option to consider –
Hi Janis
I would try searching online for “picking up stitches from a steek” and that should help you out!
Best
Jessica
Hello from Denmark!
This is so useful 😍 I just wonder, will this tecnique be good, when one is sewing in sleeves afterwards? It looks so beautifull.
Hi Sanneli,
Thanks for reaching out and for your kind words! It would depend on the pattern but I think this technique could certainly be used for that!
Warmly,
Gianna
Hello and thank you for that great tutorial. I wonder if this kind of steek with facings would be safe enough to use with superwash sock yarn. Has anyone tried out yet?
My thoughts an button bands: For a button band I would try not to bind off the picked up stitches and the facing stitches toghether as shown in the video. Instread I will try to just knit them toghether an then do an I-Cord-Bind-Off in the next row with botton holes as suggested by Elizabeth Zimmermann.
I hope you will understand what I mean for English is not my native language and I“m not sure if I can express my idea properly.
Hi Candida,
Thanks for reaching out! When steeking super wash yarn, I’d recommend using a thread and needle (or a sewing machine) to stitch along a vertical column on each side. The knit facing will definitely help prevent the yarn from unraveling, but the sewing will secure it even more!
If you decide to give it a try, I would also suggest trying it on a swatch before attempting it on your finished piece. You can throw the swatch in the washing machine to test how well it holds up!
All the best,
Lili