Working With Irregular + Hand Dyed Yarns: Avoiding Pooling
There are some yarns, like hand dyed or specially textured ones, that are supposed to appear irregular or random when you knit them but sometimes don’t! When the color or texture of a yarn inadvertently concentrates in certain parts of the fabric and forms an unwanted pattern, we call it “pooling.”
Pooling
Pooling usually happens when you’ve hit upon a stitch count and gauge that put the patterning in the yarn into a rhythm with itself. It’s like your knitting is in resonance with the ebbs and flows of the yarn. Sounds nice, but it doesn’t always look nice!
To avoid pooling, simply alternate two skeins of yarn every row or even every two rows. If you’re working in the round, do the same, and follow this tutorial for tips on how to carry the yarn up the inside of the piece as you work. When working on a one skein project, you either wind the skein into two balls and alternate with those, or if using a swift and ball winder, alternate between pulling from the center and outside of the ball.
This technique of alternating skeins interrupts the pooling and creates the more all-over, random pattern that these types of yarns are meant to create. While pooling is not always avoidable, even when you alternate skeins, more often than not, this process does the trick!
I just bought the Lantern Bundle to make the Pebble Dishcloths.
I read the note about pooling and hand dyed yarns and to alternate two skeins of yarn every row or two rows. I understand this, however with the Dishcloths there is just one skein of yarn in each color, one for each dish cloth. Do you suggest I roll two balls of yarn out of each skein, so that I gave two balls to alternate with?
Barbara
Hi Barbara,
Thanks for reaching out! You are correct – when working on a one skein project, you can either wind the skein into two balls and alternate with those, or if using a swift and ball winder, alternate between pulling from the center and outside of the ball.
I hope that helps! Happy knitting!
Julianna
I bought the Lantern bundle as well. I find the yarn easy to work with. I like pooling so I just started in knitting and waited to see what would show up pattern-wise. What I did change was the size. Washcloths to me should be square and since I have small hands ( I plan to use these in the kitchen) I cast on 35 sts and used a size 4 needle. I got 4 6 inch cloths out of 1 skein. I’m very pleased.
Hi Maralie,
Your small washcloths out of Lantern sound fantastic – thank you so much for sharing your ideas with us!
Best,
Julianna
I am planning on making the Cap Sleeve Pullover and am using a yarn that might ‘pool’. Since the instructions are to work this pattern ‘inside out’, how do I alternate skeins without leaving a ‘seam’ showing on the purl side?
Thanks
Hello Chris,
This is a great question! All you need to do is carry your yarn up the front rather than the back when you are changing colors.
I hope this helps and happy knitting!
-Marilla
How long of a circular knitting needle should I use on the Pebble Dishcloth project?
Hi Elizabeth,
Thanks for reaching out! For the Pebble Dishcloths, the finished width is 10 inches so I would suggest choosing a 16 inch or a 24 inch long circular needle!
Best,
Cassy
I’m really curious about how you can tell that pooling is going to happen, before getting too far into the pattern. — Is there something that I can look for when I make my swatches? Or am I just hosed, and have to frog 30 rows?
Thanks!
Hi Dom,
Great question! In truth, it is hard to know if a yarn will pool by looking at it or even by swatching it. Hand dyed variegated yarns tend to pool more than others but it is hard to predict how or if they will pool. Different stitch counts can cause the same yarn to pool completely differently or sometimes not at all. In truth, we knit nearly an entire sweater before noticing that Lantern was pooling and ripped the whole thing back and worked it as we note above. It is one of the joys (?) of working with yarn; it may well behave differently than you expect!
Best,
Cassy
Hi!
Anytime I work with a hand dyed yarn, after reading this, I have used the technique suggested. Personally I don’t mind pooling, but I trust your judgement more than mine and everything I knit are gifts so better safe than sorry.
I have a couple of projects that will be completed using three skeins of yarn. Can you please suggest a way to avoid pooling with a 3 skein project? Thank you.
Kat
Hello Katrina,
I’m happy to hear that you have found this technique as affective as we have! For three skeins, I would alternate with your first two skeins until they are about half way through, and then switch one of those skeins with your third skein. You will then have half a skein to finish with your third skein.
I hope this makes sense and happy knitting!
-Marilla
For what its worth, when I am making a garment with 3 skeins, I alternate all 3 skeins from top to bottom. Resulting in ends at the top and the bottom, and allows for uniform sleeves as well.
Hi Valorie,
Thats a great idea! Thank you for sharing!
Happy making,
Gavriella
Hi! I’m new to hand-dyed yarns, and am just finishing my first cardigan using the alternating technique. On a cardigan, is there some way to stabilize the front edge that you did not switch skeins on? I find that the edge where I alternated skeins is firmer/less stretchy lengthwise that the other edge, and before I add a button band, wondered if I can even up the edges? Thanks! LuAnn
Hi LuAnn,
Great question! This issue is also common with pieces that are knit in narrow stripes and is caused by carrying your yarn up the side of the work a bit too tightly. Picking up the stitches for the button bands should even out the two edges just fine, but in the future, if you weren’t picking up a button band, you could always finish both edges with a row of single crochet or an applied i-cord. I would also recommend practicing carrying your yarns loosely along the edge of the work – it might seem odd if you aren’t used to it, but it’s ideal for there to be a tiny bit of a loop or loose yarn in the back of the work so the finished piece has room to move and stretch. When working stripes or alternating skeins, I try to check my edges every few inches so I can adjust my tension as needed.
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
Does pooling occur when knitting an asymmetric triangular shawl( mix of stockinette and lacework)?
I was wondering whether the constantly increasing number of stitches on the row would prevent pooling.
Won’t the carried stitches show along the edge of the shawl?
Many thanks. Carla
Hi Carla,
Great question! Although pooling can still occur in a piece that isn’t rectangular, it isn’t as likely and won’t continue through the whole shawl. Pooling is caused by the number of stitches in the piece aligning with the length of the color repeat in hand dyed yarn, so as you are increasing, you may hit that magic stitch count that will cause pooling for a few rows, but it should go away shortly as your stitch count goes up and no longer lines up with the color repeat. Switching back and forth between stockinette and lace should also help break up any pooling since the length of yarn that goes into each row will vary with different stitches, so I don’t think it’s necessary to alternate skeins for this type of project! It is possible to do so, however, even in a very lacy stitch, though you do have to be very careful with your tension as you carry the two yarns along the edge of the shawl.
I hope that helps!
Julianna
Hi! I’m making my first sweater with hand dyed wool and am wondering how you recommend working with multiple skeins.
The pattern I have calls for 6. Do i pair skeins up in twos and alternate that way or do i need to alternate with all 6 throughout? Hopefully my question makes sense lol.
Thanks for any help!
Hi Whitney,
Great question! In general, it’s usually not necessary to alternate more than two skeins at a time – although alternating all six throughout the sweater would ensure the most blended look possible, it would also be a logistical nightmare! When alternating between two skeins, if you are knitting in the round, you will work one row per skein, or if you are knitting flat, two rows per skein. It is also possible to work from three skeins at a time if you are knitting flat and work one row per skein, but I would recommend trying it on a swatch first to get the hang of managing the yarn strands without getting too tangled up!
I hope that helps, and happy knitting!
Julianna
I am ready to roll yarn in 2 balls but concern is after Knitting 2rows second adding is same as continuing with one ball.
Hi Peggy
Thanks for reaching out! If you wound one skein into 2 balls of yarn to prevent pooling, the 2 balls will naturally start at different places from in the the skein. The simple act of changing the yarns every row, or every other will prevent this repeat or pooling effect from happening. It’s really magic! Hope this explains it, and happy knitting!
Best
Jessica
Hi, I’m going to be knitting the pebble dishcloths but am very new to knitting and am a bit confused. I have one skein and will be winding it into 2 balls of yarn. Do you have a tutorial or instructions on how exactly I would knit using the two balls of yarn? Do I start with one ball and then have to alternate and knit in the second?
Hi Jenny,
Thanks for reaching out! I’m afraid we don’t have a more specific tutorial, but I think I can explain the method a little more thoroughly! To alternate skeins, you will start by casting on however many stitches are required for the dishcloth using one ball of yarn, which we’ll call Ball A for now, and then knit the first two rows of the dishcloth, also using Ball A. You will then leave Ball A attached, but join Ball B and knit the next two rows using Ball B. After those two rows, you will drop the yarn coming from Ball B and, again, leave it attached, but pick up the yarn from Ball A and knit two more rows. You will continue alternating two rows from each ball until you get to the end of the dishcloth!
I hope that clears things up!
Julianna
That’s very clear! Thank you so much
I was going to knit a bay sweater with hand dyed yarn. It requires worsted yarn. Could I hold 2 DK strands together and get same effect? Of course I would swatch before starting.
Thanks
Eileen
Hi Eileen,
Thanks for reaching out! Two dk weight yarns together would actually be much thicker than a worsted weight yarn, I would suggest instead holding 2 fingering or sport weight yarn together to achieve a similar weight to worsted!
Warmly,
Gianna
I really appreciate your patterns and how responsive you are to questions! I’m working on a sweater that uses short rows. I’m struggling to wrap my head around how to alternate skeins. Any advice on how to combine alternating skeins and short rows?
Hi Jessica,
That’s a great question! We’d recommend switching skeins every 2 short rows (for example, on each right side short row). That way, you’ll return to around the spot you left off with the previous skein, and then you can pick it back up and start working with it again for the next 2 short rows. Hope this helps!
All the best,
Lili
I wish I had known about pooling before I made my latest sweater using artisan dyed wool. It was variegated with green and purple tones and is gorgeous. My problem is it is very heavy with the deep purple on the bottom, and more plain greens to the top I frogged it too many times for other problems to take it Al the way back to the beginning.
Hi Cindy,
Thanks for writing in! I definitely have been there! It can be quite frustrating to learn of these things only after you have completed a project. We hope this post helps you avoid that pooling effect in the future but if you have any other questions, please let us know and we would be happy to help!
Happy making,
Gavriella